This blog shares random bits and pieces of numerous journeys on a comfy North Pacific trawler, the M/V Exhale. Launching from our home port in Fort Myers, Florida the first big adventure was a 6,000 mile journey known as the America’s Great Loop (in 2018), we also traversed to the Bahamas twice, and navigated the cool waters of Maine. In 2023 we are embarking on a journey to northeast Canada.
A dog’s life. A tribute to Maddie Sue. (2009 – 2021)
ex·hale
eksˈhāl,ˈeksˌhāl/
verb
breathe out in a deliberate manner.
“she sat back and exhaled deeply”
The trawler: North Pacific is based in Surrey, British Columbia, CANADA.
As noted in our last post, before our side trip to Austin, Exhale covered a LOT of lovely water that we have not reported on yet – starting after South Port (NC, thanks David) then pausing at the Isle of Hope, GA.
So grab a cup of coffee or a nice beverage and let’s fill in the gaps. In time, not teeth, although given our location either is possible.
Capt Rick is bundled up for the ride.
Capt Rick and Buttercup, blankets provided by Tonto’s Reward
Little River, South Carolina
There’s something special about a pink house!
It reminds me of “Mr. Pine’s Purple House” by Leonard Kessler. Here we go: “Mr. Pine lived on Vine Street in a little white house. “A white house is fine,” said Mr. Pine, “but there are FIFTY white houses all in a line on Vine Street. How can I tell which house is mine?” Come to think of it, this book might be banned in Florida, since the theme is embracing diversity. So add it to your library! Click Here! A Florida retiree (ironic), Leonardo Pine (Kessler) passed away at the age of 101 in 2022.
Wacca Wache, South Carolina
You are right Tumbleweed, it’s fun to say! It’s like a blend of wack-a-mole and Weeki Wachee Springs in Florida. Boater’s Tip: Fuel up! The price of fuel is low due to a friendly rivalry between Wacca Wache marina and the Myrtle Beach Yacht Club.
This marina has the best shade trees!
Boater’s Tip – the water is a little skinny, but the dock hands are experienced, just go slow.
Georgetown, South Carolina
Georgetown is a walkable town with plenty of small shops and eateries. At dinner I spotted this sign. The mantra is perfect! Life is full of noisy distractions, but if you focus – inhale, then exhale deeply – you can enjoy what is happening in the moment. Be present! (Thanks, MO)
GeorgeTown Mantra
Turtle Time
Charleston, South Carolina
The structures in downtown Charleston are stunning.
We introduced the lovely Hotel Bennett heading north.
During a walk about, in front of the hotel Gail and I discovered a line-up of vintage cars. Craig Adford can probably name all of them.
The lead driver from Whip Dash said they were there to pick up a party of 21 southern belles. https://www.whipdash.com/ An elegant way to tour Charleston!
Gail and I wondered if the ladies got to choose the car to ride in, or, if it was going to be the luck of the draw. Do you have a favorite? Perhaps Rolls Royce or Bentley? Gail said “no thanks” to riding in the Mustang. The Chevy Bel Air is for my cousin, John.
Beaufort (sounds like view), South Carolina
With a little extra time to unwind, Gail and I visited our favorite nail salon – Nail Bar on Bay (843) 379-3456. Open 7 days a week, walk ins are welcomed.
Welcome back to Old Bull Tavern! Consistently amazing, our favorite server, Ashley, remembered Rick’s drink and menu choice!
Ashley
Total YUM!
Consistently the BEST Old Fashioned, ever!
Boater’s Tip: Request a table in the pizza room – it’s a perfect place to watch the magic happen!
Hilton Head, South Carolina
It was splendid to reunite with our sweet friends Jeff and Patty North, M/V Lady North, NP49 euro style.
Clockwise from the top: Capt. Rick, Mary S, Dr. Patty North, David and Gail Bernstein, and Jeff North.
They both looked fabulous. Recently retired, we can see they enjoy life on the water!
Savannah, Georgia; Isle of Hope Marina
Tonto’s Reward and Exhale settled in for a well-deserved break while the humans and one very spoiled puppy went Off to the Races! (see the last post)
Tonto’s Reward, David and Gail Bernstein
Richmond Hill, Georgia; Kilkenny Marina
After we returned from the Formula One races we headed to one of our favorite stops, Kilkenny Marina. It turns out Richmond Hill and our home base in Fort Myers have a very special connection – Henry Ford!
In 1916 Henry and Clara Ford purchased a winter home in Fort Myers, next to Thomas Edison.
stock photo, Ford’s “Mango home”
Roughly 20 years later Clara determined Fort Myers was “too crowded”. Really? Let’s research that: Wikipedia reports the population was 3,678 in 1920, bursting to an insufferable 9,082 by 1930, okay … Apparently, Clara wanted a more private location, to escape the hustle and bustle. The world’s first billionaire solved that problem for his pretty wife: Ford acquired 85,000 acres in the low country, covering 120 square miles, then he immediately commenced building a new community.
By 1937, Clara was enjoying a 7,000 square foot mansion overlooking the Ogeechee River. Maybe she just wanted a bigger house, with a pool and a massive lawn, who knows.
Stock Photo – Richmond Hill mansion
Known as the Uncommon Friends, Henry Ford, John Burroughs, Harvey Firestone, and Thomas Edison were reported to take fishing trips together on the Ogeechee River.
Now, for a small fortune, you can rent the historic venue for a destination wedding or special event.
Jekyll Island, Georgia
We love this little pub, the staff is super friendly!
and the mascots dress up with the season!
Seeing Double
Welcome to the North Pacific family, Greg and Ellen. Joining us at Jekyll was the newly launched M/V Bertha, another 49 euro style, she’s an Exhale doppelgänger. In the words of Oscar Wilde, “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery”.
Exhale, Bertha; Kilkenny marina
Enjoy your beautiful new home on the water!
Fernandina Beach, Florida
Crossing the invisible state line, we are BACK in Florida. Tom and Faye, M/V Treble in Paradise, you should be here!
Hey David B, did we go on another Bird Walk?
Celebrating Milestones.
October 29, Jo Callaway; October 30, Lana Savona; November 1, Sandy Houlder; November 3, Gail Bernstein; November 5, Cindy Ginsburg
Happy Halloween!
Coming Up: St. Augustine, Florida, Conch House Marina (October 29)
While Exhale took a little break – tied up at the Isle of Hope, Savannah GA – Capt. Rick, Buttercup and I flew to Austin, TX;hometown of Dana Belknap, M/V Tumbleweed, and second home of Craig Adford and Maureen O’Gara.
We left long before breakfast – Buttercup was not impressed.
It’s 4:08 am – why are we going for a walk in the dark?
First, a heartfelt thank you to Gail and David Bernstein who facilitated this amazing trip to see the Formula One races! Former Austin residents, they started going to the Circuit of the Americas (COTA) track when it opened in October of 2012, that year Mario Andretti waived the green flag to officially start the races! It was reported that 117,429 folks watched the races that year – now that’s a precise number.
The view from Turn 15
Gail, David, Bert and EJ are private seat licensed (PSL) ticket holders. Strategically, their seats are at Turn 15 – the best in the house! Rob and Kerry went last year, so they know what we mean.
If you have never experienced the frenzy, here are a few bragging stats from COTA for last year (2022): Record attendance: over 440,0000 sweaty persons; Economic impact ~ $10 billion, that’s with a “B”, think roughly two Super Bowls; Austin jobs ~ 64,000.
There were lots of Fan-atics in the crowd.
Taladega Nights “Ricky Bobby” wannabe
Although the final numbers are not in yet, 2023 was predicted by COTA to top all of that, in sweltering heat. We believe it!
Ferrari – for Mason
With PSL tickets, we walked the pits on Thursday.
San Antonio Express News Photo
Just in time for a fun publicity stunt by Drew Barrymore, who posed with my favorite, Red Bull racer Sergio Checo Perez #11.
San Antonio Express News Photo
Red Bull racing team, Drew Barrymore and team principal Christian Horner.
Thank you to Maureen and Craig for spoiling us, rotten for an entire week! We ate, we drank, we ate some more!
Craig Adford and Maureen O’Gara
Craig and Mo live in a peaceful community with lots of hiking trails. The view overlooks Lake Travis. We hope you get rain, soon!
Lake Travis – the water levels were VERY low
One of our favorite moments was the tailgate party in the parking lot!
A little Justin celebration
COTA magic
Buttercup enjoyed every moment!
Hi Morgan. We will be home soon!
In Texas everything was fabulous!
Go Max Go
And the winner is …. Because this blog is late, again, you already know that Max won!
Happy fans
From Race Cars to Baby Pods, who knew!?
Not sure who to root for with so many great teams? Consider Williams – okay, the 2023 drivers did not fare well, but the company is awesome. Maureen, our hostess with the most-ess, offered a heartwarming story of the unexpected application of race car engineering utilized by Williams!
More than just racing – introducing the Babypod 20!
Real-time data is the oxygen, the lifeblood of a Formula One race car. Every ripple of movement – by the driver and his car – is carefully monitored and anlayzed. The car is also designed to withstand a 20 G-force crash, so when the car smashes into other cars, or a wall, it is highly probable the driver(s) will walk away!
Now imagine designing a portable, crash-resilient transport carrier for new-born infants! Made of carbon-fibre, the Babypod 20 is ultralight, temperature-controlled, with a built-in vital signs monitor (like the race cars!). Easily transferred to a stretcher, trolley, ambulance, car or helicopter, the pod has already saved the lives of countless infants!
AHT – BabyPod 20 in ambulance
Pure brilliance! Bravo to Great Ormond Street Hospital for Children, located in the London Borough of Camden, who partnered with Williams and Advanced Healthcare Technology to develop the Babypod!
“Second to the right, and then straight on till morning”
One more super cool thing about that hospital – Author James Matthew Barrie gifted all of his copyrights to Peter Pan (book and theatre) to support Great Ormond Street Hospital for Children back in 1929. It turns out, JM Barrie once lived on Grenville Street, behind Great Ormond Street Hospital (GOSH). That house became the inspiration for the Darlings’ family home in his fabulous novel Peter Pan. In 1988 the House of Lords extended the rights, in perpetuity, to insure the royalty checks would continue! What a fabulous legacy. If you want to learn more, click here!https://www.gosh.org/about-us/peter-pan/history/
Celebrating Milestones (a few missed birthday).
October 22, Kelly Thorn-Hiebert; October 27, Steven “with a v” Hunt – still throwing flowers; October 29, Jo Callaway; October 30, Lana Savona
Coming Up: Heading to Kilkenny Marina
Note to our followers – our last post was from South Port SC – we will do a “gap post” soon to fill in the missing stops from Little River, Waccca Wachie (hello Free Style), Georgetown, Charleston, Beaufort SC, and Hilton Head)
For Dana – FreeStyle caught up with us in Isle of Hope. We have been bumping into them for years now, beginning in Maine in 2021, and most recently during our Canadian adventure. You should be here, Tumbleweed!
At the foot of the Alligator Bridge the gas station / gift shop / food counter is a popular rest stop for US Hwy 64 motorists and for ICW boaters. In the words of the patron who walked in behind us “this place never changes.”
Alligator River – Fried Chicken
We have stayed at the marina numerous times over the past 5 years. The fried chicken was sooo good we would talk about it for days; the well-seasoned cook was a charming southern woman, who seemed to put her heart and soul into every meal! Unfortunately, this time she was not there, and I don’t think she shared her secret recipes with her replacement. So Disappointed. Gail B was smart enough to order a salad – which came with hamburger pickles, so odd. On a side note, we hope NP43 Beach Breeze, fka Gypsy Soul, is doing well.
The replica of Cape Hatteras lighthouse remains a fav.
Belhaven, NC; Spoon River
Formerly known as Jack’s Neck, then Bellport, the waterfront village of Belhaven earned its official name in 1899.
And the heavens opened up … On September 23, as Ophelia made landfall, a storm surge flooded the entire town of Belhaven. Like most of Mother Nature’s annoying natural disasters, the devastation was quick and widespread.
We arrived less than two weeks after the flood; in spite of Ophelia’s unjustifiable mayhem, irrepressible businesses were reopening.
Our favorite restaurant, Spoon River Artworks and Market, was amongst the most Resilient! Farm to Table meals prepared by Mark and Teresa.
Travelers – Make the time to eat there – It’s a MUST!
FINE WINE TIME! Instead of a printed wine list, you walk into a beautiful room, where you can pick out your own treasure.
Oriental, NC; River Dunes
If you read our posts this summer you know we were on a quest throughout Maine and Canada to see a moose, any moose, with no luck at all. Amused to see this trophy in North Carolina!
Morehead City, NC
Morehead is another walkable town, with well-maintained structures.
Boater’s Tip – This year the annual North Carolina Seafood Festival and Boat Show is/was from October 6 – 8. Celebrating nearly 40 years, the three-day event reportedly attracts more than 200,000 – Capt. Rick was VERY happy to miss the crowds.
Hampstead, NC; Harbor Village Marina
We also found this boat name adorable – for Ray and Caryl– notice, Little Bit is the tender, Little Bit More is the Rossmore
Boater’s Tip: Harbormaster Brett Ulisnik is likely to have a dog treat in his pocket! A quiet little spot, there are no restaurants nearby making it a perfect night to eat on board.
Southport, NC
Southport is a picturesque waterfront community! A walkable spot, with charming local store fronts. Not surprisingly, it is a popular filming location, with more than 30 listed on IMDB (click here), including Dawson’s Creek, Weekend at Bernies and Safe Haven (for Linda Palmer)!
Halloween Decoration for Morgan
Southport water tower
Brothers from Another Mother Reunited!
Say hello to Mark Cardone – Rick’s brother from another mother. Together they tell LOTS of stories of the good old days. Fun fact: Mark’s son was our wedding photographer!
In honor of the wine-infused Italian meals typically concocted by Mark – which we have enjoyed together for more than 15 years – Rick and I prepared dinner on Exhale; handmade meatballs and “gravy” slow cooked for nearly eight hours, to be served over angel hair nests. The boat was smelling yum-a-licious by the time they arrived.
You might notice the familiar attire – Rick and Mark have a very similar collection of those Costco shirts!
Mark and his wife, Linda Palmer, are former neighbors from Belmont Shore, CA. Oh how we missed you guys, including the champagne corks that Mark would aim at our home, across the alley.
In May of this year they moved to North Carolina, a HUGE change from our beloved beach community in California!
If you want to take a break from your day, click here to check out the UTube channel launched by Mark and Linda, with segments about travel, pets (they have three cats and more than a dozen wild deer), Halloween (it’s an obsession), and an irreverent cooking show. Parent Advisory: some of the 1-Minute Recipes are not for kids!
Looking forward to seeing you in Florida, Mark and Linda!
Chillin the Most – cool boat name with a beautiful Aussie!
Celebrating with sweet Golden Ours
Southport is also the home of Tim and Tracy Harris, NP 45 Golden Ours.
Tracy loves Buttercup – you can see it’s mutual!
Boater’s Tip: With so many great places to eat in Southport, stay an extra day or more so you can explore!
Fuzzy Janes
Thanks for the Flowers, Tim Harris! Can’t wait to see you and Tracy again!
Closing with a bonus photo for Craig and Commodore Gary, NP45 Knot Dreamin – zoom in!
Celebrating Milestones.
It’s Fall! Wishing a very merry un-birthday to all y’all!
Coming Up: Little River, South Carolina – where we first met Bruce Peck, MV Seatrek in 2018. I think it’s time for a lemon drop martini 🙂 You should be here Craig Adford! See you soon in Austin.
Dreary weather is brightened by an unexpected gift of flowers; the very best! Thanks, Capt. Rick
Bear, Delaware; Summit North Marina
You might think it’s a blurry photo, but really it was just another foggy day. It seems we have had more than our fair share lately. But not to complain too much, we dodged another tropical storm.
Chesapeake City, Maryland
We passed by Chesapeake City with fond memories of our visit in 2018 with Donna Wallace.
Boaters Tip: If you opt to tie up at the Restaurant you will be perfectly positioned for a fabulous sunset. Be aware when you depart, debris in the form of heavy logs tends to collect near your props, so let the current help float you away, without thrusters, if possible.
Elk River
As we traveled the Elk River, we found plenty of commercial traffic, looks like holiday shopping has begun.
Annapolis, Maryland
With many options for overnight stays in Annapolis, the mooring ball field is an easy water taxi from the city center. There are also many marinas nearby. We have tried several.
Dinner at Chez Gromurph
My favorite part of Annapolis is visiting Sandy Grosvenor, owner of NP42 Road Trip. First, a warm hello to Grogu and IronBear
Sandy’s crab cakes are beyond delicious. The only thing better is to share them with new friends!
Pictured: Bill Simon, David B, Gail B., Hostess Sandy Grosvenor, Capt. Rick, Jim Quinn, Joanie Simon, and Camille Daniels.
VERY small boating world – Camille is the past Commodore of Long Beach Yacht Club, home of of our dear friends, Matt and Michele Jackson.
Screen Shot from LBYC webpage
Dating back to 1929, LBYC in CA is not to be confused with the one on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. Best of luck on the remodel efforts Camille! The proposed improvements to the pool and club house look fantastic! We look forward to visiting you next time we are back in CA.
Solomons, Maryland; Spring Cove Marina
Boater’s Tip – after Labor Day the pool closes and the restaurant only operates on the weekend, BUT this quiet little marina is still a great location. Ask for the loaner car!
Hatteras lighthouse
Another full moon
DeltaVille, VA
… the waiting spot for pizza deliveries.
Norfolk, VA; Waterside Marina
It was good to return to this accessible marina – within easy walking distance of everything downtown Norfolk.
Glass Light Hotel & Gallery
If you take a walk around downtown Norfolk, make the time to enjoy this hotel and gallery. Built in 1912, the magnificent 13-story building was once the home of the Royster Guano Fertilizer Company.
Stock Photo
Since guano is “the excrement of seabirds and bats” the company name might conjure up a stinky operation for some of our followers. If you are not familiar with its odor, a genteel description suggests, “bat guano has a musty smell, with a “hint” of ammonia.” I disagree.
Virginia Bat
For a short while, I lived in Cave Junction, Oregon, aka “Gateway to the Oregon Caves”. Perhaps you have seen (or stayed in!) the treehouses. This is for Carly!
Notably, with a population of less than 2,000 there are significantly more bats than human residents. After visiting the infamous bat-filled caves it is my opinion the smell of guano is pungent, acrid, and foul. Rather troubling, Guano contains nitrates that can be used to make explosives.
Something good about bats – they eat mosquitos and can consume up to 3,000 insects in one night. And, bats are the only mammal that can truly fly.
Fast forward to modern times – the former Royster Guano Fertilizer Company building changed hands a few times, over the course of 100 plus years, until it was majestically restored and transformed in 2019.
Now known as the Glass Light Hotel & Gallery (affiliated with the Marriott), it hosts the art collection of Doug and Pat Perry, which displays over 65 glass pieces on two floors.
Hello bunny!
Crafted by Dutch artist Peter Bremers, this whimsical six-foot glass bunny is a focal piece, welcoming trendy bar patrons who can of course order a super fancy “artisanal cocktail”.
Coinjock, North Carolina
Nothing special here, although we saw Life of Pi, from Kenai, AK (sorry, no pic).
Celebrating Milestones.
Birthdays: October 1, Sam Straley; October 4, Mayor Scotty Harvey
In the words of Natalie Merchant, “Ophelia was a tempest cyclone” From New York to New Jersey, it continued to rain. Enough already, seriously.
Sag Harbor, New York
Navigating the puddles, we walked about Sag Harbor. Like Tumbleweed, we enjoy this little spot.
Sag Harbor Fire Dept.
Civil War Memorial
This memorial, “In Liberty and Union” commemorates the lives lost during the Civil War.
The 1864 cannon is nearly 1,500-pounds.
Sag Harbor Trivia
Phineas Taylor “P.T” Barnum once owned a segment of land running through the village. The adage “there’s a sucker born every minute” was frequently attributed to P.T. (Wikipedia).
It turns out, Barnum aimed to establish a home base for his circus in Sag Harbor, but disapproving residents put a stop to his dream. To that I say, New Yorkers are smarter than the average circus bear! Much later the Ringling Bros and Barnum & Bailey ended up in Sarasota Florida. For all of you Florida transients, no additional comments required.
Port Jefferson, New York; Danforth Marina
Named after Thomas Jefferson in 1836 (he spent big bucks in the region), locally the area is called Port Jeff.
Port Jefferson
A very walkable village, it shall always remind us of that one time, when we saw Tumbleweed! It is also a place of great pride.
Great Kills, Staten Island, New York
Before you question the soundness of this alarming village name, I found it was the result of the Anglicization of the words “Groote Kell” which, from Dutch, may translate to “many creeks“. To me it sounded like an original name from Sandy Grosvenor. By the mid 19th century the village was a popular fishing spot.
New Yorkers pick some great boat names!
Knot Shore
Semper Fi sh
As tropical Storm Ophelia was bearing down on the coast, we traveled 114 nautical miles from Staten Island, NY to the safety of Cape May, New Jersey – departing at 3:45 am with only the twinkling stars to guide us (Dave Lub was spared the morning photo!).
No need to romanticize, the run was very stressful, especially for 4 seniors who have crappy eyesight to begin with. When we arrived around 6 pm, after more than 14 hours on the water, strong survival/arrival drinks were a must.
Cape May, New Jersey; South Jersey Marina
This quaint little town was preparing for Halloween!
Halloween Colors including the candy corn fire hydrant.
Pumpkin for Morgan
Flowers for Morgan
As the boats were safely tucked in, the rain and wind hit hard.
Cape May New Jersey Boat names also worth mentioning.
This is for Alisha!
This name is NOT a good choice – no sense in practicing misery, right Sideways?
You decide … good name or maybe not?
Foodies Bonus
It’s been a long time since we have featured a restaurant. Introducing Brine, located at the South Jersey marina.
Char Octopus
Brine is BYOB, so we were spoiled by Tonto’s Reward, they supplied the best wine!
Duck Confit
Although not the same as Sandy’s lump crab, the food was very good.
Crab Cakes
Something Rotten
After a long day on the water, I sat down in my favorite corner and stretched out my legs. Instantly I was overwhelmed by the pungent smell of something rotten. Was it my stinky feet? Embarrassed – without saying a word to Capt. Rick – I went below, scoured my questionable feet with a brush and my favorite scented soap (thanks to Fred and Deb Luddington, NP45), dried them, and put on socks. Feeling confident I had eradicated the offensive odor, I returned to the salon and got comfy again; yet the stench remained. Without a doubt, it wasn’t from me. It was someone else’s malodorous toes (go ahead, Commodore, look up that word).
Inquiry for the Followers
At what point do you decide it’s time to part with your shoes? I know the birthday boy, Roger B has a brilliant system for inventory rotation. He writes a date on all his running shoes, with a thick black sharpie, to safely avoid equipment failure! SFYC members can attest Roger is an award-winning runner, so this practice serves him well. I have no proof, but I suspect Connie B donates her beautiful extra shoes to charity whenever they have collected too much dust, and Donna W trades them in as the season changes.
Boat Shoes
Since we began this journey in April, Capt. Rick has purchased multiple pairs of boat shoes, planning to retire his beloved Timberlands. Perhaps relating to Goldilocks, he keeps trying to find a pair that was “just right”; he also claimed to Gail B and David B that the old pair would last a little longer. Really??
Now back to the saga of “something rotten”. This morning I found the real source of the bitter smell. The soaking wet shoes refuse to dry. Notice the lack of tread and the bona fide holes. Followers feel free to chime in, is it time for a burial at sea?? Gail and David will attest, there are several new pairs of shoes on board, just waiting to be worn.
Delaware Bay Lighthouse
Closing this post with a fun pic of a lighthouse that seems to have eyes, watching you.
With that, we are current on our posts, Ann J, at least for now! Hope you enjoyed your coffee break.
We crossed into Maine some time ago; now we are in New York, again. That means this post will cover a lot of territory.
So, pour a cup of coffee, Ann Johnston, or a glass of wine, and let’s get caught up.
Dysart’s Southwest Harbor, Maine
Thanks to Jim and Susan Merritt, Exhale was scrubbed from top to bottom, just in time to say Hello to Ray and Caryl! Buttercup loves it when the cookie man is in the house.
Capt. Rick, Buttercup, Gail B, Caryl M, Jim M, Ray “Sideways”, and Susan Merritt
Reuniting with our 2018 Looper buddies, we intentionally overlapped our guests. Thanks to Gail and David B, Sideways was upgraded to premier class on the first night, spoiled in a cabin on Tonto’s Reward.
Visiting with two Hollywood Legends
An Elvis Co-star – It was a privilege to see Joan Freeman again. Look her up, she was an amazing star! She and her husband, Bruce Kessler were enjoying their summer in Maine.
Lobster Fest
Perfect Timing – Micah, the generous local lobster fisherman, holds an annual birthday party/lobster fest at the Dysart’s marina. We arrived just in time to chow down with old friends Bruce Kessler and Joan Freeman-Thank you Micah! Lobster-ific!
Bruce Kessler and Joan Freeman
Rockport, Maine
We love Rockport. The sky tells the story, serene, and magical.
Unfortunately, Phil, there were no weddings to crash.
Boothbay, Maine
This photo was not altered in any way, the Maine weather was this perfect!
Boothbay Harbor. Postcard Perfect
Ray Houle, Second Mate
Portland, Maine – Dimillos
A whale picture for Greg!
Caryl Moulder
We said goodbye to Ray and Caryl in Portland, Maine – thanks for joining us guys!
Fashion Week – New York City, New York
I had the privilege, again, of supporting my daughter, Alisha Silverstein, during New York fashion week. Along with the insanely talented Carly Lennon Maurer (my niece), we spent 7 nights working in the Big Apple.
Hello New York! Carly Lennon Maurer and Alisha Silverstein
I am extremely proud of Mija who continues to elevate the Selkie brand with her exquisite talent. Here are just a few Selkie photos showing us at work behind the scenes in preparation of the fashion show
Alisha Silverstein and her cousin Carly Maurer
Mary Silverstein and her niece Carly
Model alterations
Model alterations continue
Alterations completed. Late night final touches.
A total of 64 outfits were displayed on the runway. All of them were customized to fit the models. Spectacular Results.
Selkie New York fashion show
Spectacular!
Yes, the starry night dress I am wearing and the black jumper Alisha is wearing are Selkie designs.
And yes, David Bernstein, we are drinking Aperol Spritz to celebrate!
Meanwhile, the show on Exhale went on as scheduled, with a well-qualified Understudy. A heartfelt thanks to First Mate / Photographer, Craig Adford! With Craig’s experienced, able-bodied support, Exhale continued to travel.
Crew change. First Mate, Craig Adford arrives.
Wentworth by the Sea, New Hampshire
photo by Craig
Pickering Wharf Salem, Massachusetts
Photo by Craig
Photo by Craig
Witches for a Good Cause
Photo by Capt. Rick
For our Massachusetts friends, if you are looking for a local cause to support, check out this unique grocery store/food pantry.
Photo by Capt. Rick
The Daily Table, a Boston-based nonprofit. So far, the grocery store chain has a total of 5 stores, typically located in dense neighborhoods with little or no fresh food offered – known as food deserts. The Market is a unique food pantry found on the ground floor of North Shore CDC’s Lighthouses building at 47 Leavitt St. https://www.dailytable.org/
Photographed by Capt. Rick, the stores are absolutely beautiful.
Sandwich, Massachusetts
photo by Craig
thru the Cape Cod Canal,
Buzzards Bay, photo by Craig Adford
Pope’s Island, New Bedford, Massachusetts
uhhhhh – this is a hurricane warning flag
Photo by Capt. Rick
Flying towards the storm, again.
After an exciting fashion show, I met up with the crew of Exhale in New Bedford, MA, where they found protective shelter from hurricane Lee. Thankfully it was significantly less than predicted!
Note from the archives – New Bedford was the safe holdout we used when hiding from yet another hurricane in 2021. If you want to see the exceptional engineering watch this short video!
Closing the New Bedford Hurricane Barrier
I got to see Craig for one night, then he flew back to LA to celebrate Mason’s birthday. We said Goodnight under the Red Sky of New Bedford.
Mystic, Connecticut
Celebrating Milestones: Belated birthday wishes: September 10; Eileen Pitel; September 15, Tony Pearl Jam; September 18, Mason turned 5!
Coming Up: the next post will take us to Sag Harbor, New York. Thanks for following us!!
Entering the well-protected bay we could see the picturesque village was colorful, as advertised. It’s no surprise that Hallmark likes to film here.
We could have stayed for several days, like Doug did, but a weather opening dictated that we moved on. See that blue sky!
Shelbourne, Nova Scotia
Another one-night stay, we were greeted by Kermit
Local inn-keeper, Cooper (love the name, Jim and Susan), gave me permission to take a photo of him watching the sunset from his private oasis.
Cooper watches the sunset
Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
At the entrance to the marina you are greeted by a life-size replica of a record breaking shark caught in Yarmouth. The unwritten message – Don’t Swim Here, Jim!
Record Shark Stats: Female 21-years old, 1,084 lbs, overall length 11.2 ft – tip of snout to tip of tail. Short-fin mako shark, caught August 21, 2004.
Yarmouth is proud of its historic buildings. With Gail B as our guide and narrator, Susan and I sincerely enjoyed our walking tour.
almost electric blue
Built by the master shipwrights.
Pastel purple
I think this one belonged to John Fitts, but maybe not.
Crazy Eye Balls!
Eatery recommendation: Immediately above the marina we found Rudders – the meal was hearty, and the Red Ale delicious.
Cribbage – Dating back to the 1600s a gambler named Sir John Suckling (what a name!) is attributed with the invention of Cribbage. If you dig a little, you learn it was just a rip-off of a British game called “noddy”. Cribbage grew in popularity during World War II. My Dad (WWII vet) had a board made from a carved antler; if you find yourself in Girdwood, go ahead and challenge my brother Sam to a game, be forewarned, he’s a bit of a shark. Cribbage is also a great way to hone your math skills. I can still hear my Dad counting his crib, “15-2, 15-4, there ain’t no more.”
Jim Merritt, Susan Merritt and Capt. Rick
Thanks, Jim and Susan, for the Cribbage lessons.
This unique board is a hand-carved swordfish bill, scrimshaw by a Nova Scotia artist (Bluenoser for Tumbleweed).
Au Revoir Canada
That’s not daylight, Dave Lubs, it’s a Super Moon at 6:04 am
As we departed, heavily loaded Commercial Fishing Boats were inbound, after a beautiful night under a full moon.
Back in the USA!
We crossed the Bay of Fundy into the Gulf of Maine (it’s all the same water, with an invisible border crossing). It’s BIG water, to my delight it was smoother than expected.
Jim and Susan Merritt have been a good luck charm, for sure. In addition to calm seas we saw more than one whale – sorry Commodore Greg, it all happened so fast!
Roque Island, Maine
Safely arriving at our second favorite anchorage (#1 is Pelican Bay / Cayo Costa), Buttercup sets four grateful feet onto American soil!
Another Time Change – as we entered Maine the clocks changed to Eastern time. Thanks Jim and Susan for making the crossing with us!
Inhale on the beach at Roque Island. Photo by Jim Merritt
Although the weather was chilly enough for long pants, Capt. Rick is happy to be back in the USA.
Morning stroll with Buttercup on Roque Island. Photo by Jim Merritt
Celebrating Milestones
Birthdays: September 5, Susan Merritt; September 9, Connie Kello Berardinis
A Tribute for the Parrot Heads
Saddened by the news of Jimmy Buffet’s passing on Friday night, September 1, we now know he will not be performing live in Fort Myers Beach when his newest Margaritaville is completed. We do expect the Grand Opening tribute will glorious, a perfect opportunity for a hologram appearance. Fins Up JWB!
First, a special Jimmy Buffet video, with an intro by the legend, who explains it’s really his truck, his first Boston Whaler, and his soon-to-be-wife, the inspiration for the song, Come Monday, is in the video! click here!
A few things even Parrot Heads might not know about Jimmy Buffett.
James William Buffett (“JWB”) was Born on Christmas day in 1946 in Pascagoula, Miss.
Son of a Son of a Sailor is a tribute to Jimmy’s seafaring grandpa, okay Sideways, maybe you knew that factoid.
Married in 1977 to Jane, The Eagles played at their wedding reception.
His debut album, Down to Earth was released in 1970 under an Andy Williams label. It sold 324 copies. Yep, 324. Since then, JWB released 50 albums, 19 music videos, and nearly 70 singles that collectively sold more than 20 million copies, so far. Let the counting continue with a $ boost in sales around Christmas 2023 as nostalgia kicks in.
Changes in Attitude.
The common perception that JWB was a bit of a pirate who squandered away his wealth was a ruse. Yes, he sang about how he “pissed away enough money to buy Miami”. And yes, Jamaica Mistaica really happened. An accomplished pilot, his plane, Hemisphere Dancer, was shot at by the Jamaican police – also onboard were his wife, two daughters, and U2’s Bono. The police, chasing drug smugglers, later apologized.
Paul Harvey’s Page 2: In the early 90’s Buffet got sober. Like Elton John, JWB loved to perform live, it soothed his soul; and like Taylor Swift, he owns his music. He was also a brilliant marketer. By 2023 (this year), Forbes estimated Jimmy Buffet’s net worth is, drum roll please, $1 billion, that’s a “B” for Buffet. No commodores, he is not related to Warren Buffett, but they were friends, and JWB wisely invested in Berkshire Hathaway. Forbes also reported he had 6 homes, four planes and a yacht. Most recently he lived in St. Barts in the Caribbean, Palm Beach, Florida and Sag Harbor.
RIP Jimmy – your musical legacy of love and laughter will live on!
A fabulous collaboration of Freeman Boatworks and Merritt Boatworks. Enjoy!
Next Up: Now, we are actively dodging Lobster pots in Maine as we head to Southwest Harbour. Sept 3 – Caryl and Ray arrive; Sept 8 – Craig arrives – wee you in NYC Carly and Mija.
By now, I really expected to see at least one live moose, but nope.
Moose head with feathered friend
On Monday the weather lifted just enough to leave Fisherman’s Harbour. We made a long, long run to Halifax – traveling a total of 92 nautical miles, over 12 SLOW hours.
Red sky morning 5:42 am
As the waves grew higher and the wind got stronger little Buttercup buried her head.
Do you know why ostriches bury their head in the sand? Unlike a frightened puppy who just wants the rolling nightmare to stop, the ostrich is not actually submerging her head out of fear. Myth buster: an ostrich lays her eggs in the sand, like a turtle. Fun fact – on a regular basis the mama ostrich sticks her beak into the sand to rotate the egg(s), perhaps she has an internal “egg timer” that reminds her to warm up the other side. The head burying thing was just a bad wrap.
Arriving in Halifax around 6pm, within easy walking distance we found a delicious meal of Chinese and Szechuan – Great Wall, 1649 Bedford Row, Halifax, NS. Capt Rick said it was one of the best meals so far!
Still on the lookout for a live moose, the local hockey team is called the Mooseheads, this week, in a preseason home game they were royally trounced by the Charlottetown Islanders. 6 to 1. We like Charlottetown, PEI.
Halifax Mooseheads
Holding still for longer than usual, David B rented a car so we could do some touristy stuff.
Cobequid Bay – the Bay of Fundy
Gail B spent some time researching the Tidal Bore at the Bay of Fundy. Reported to be a 17 m change (that’s nearly 56′) we were expecting a dramatic rush of water. In reality, it’s a gradual change without any “waves” to speak of.
Bay of Fundy, dry flatlands, photo by Capt. Rick
Waiting for Godot
This gentlemen amused himself as he said it was “boring” waiting for the tidal bore.
To me it was more like Waiting for Godot. If you can’t recall the play, and you have way too much time on your hands, here’s a link to the wiki page:
and then there was water …
Peggy’s Cove
More touristy stuff included a drive to the picturesque Peggy’s Cove. Boater’s Tip: if you see a tourist bus don’t eat there, drive away from the light house along the freshwater lake, and enjoy a local restaurant.
Peggy’s Cove
The Press Block – Historic Rehab and Renovation. Mixed Use
Halifax is a bustling city, with an appreciation for historic renovations. This set of pics is for Ryan Mendoza, notice how two exterior walls shown in this photo were carefully preserved. The Press Block will soon be a mixed-use development, with retail on the ground floor. The top floors will be high-end apartments, with spectacular views.
Following up on the comical responses from our Commodores, what is a Bluenose? More than a person from Nova Scotia, Wiktionary definitions include a variety of potato grown in Nova Scotia, naval slang: a person who has crossed the Arctic Circle; and an Australian definition: an Antarctic butterfish! Blue nose was also a fishing and racing schooner, built in 1921 in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia.
Special Guests on Board:
Hello to Jim and Susan Merritt – so happy to boat with you in Canada, again!
Next up: We are headed to Lunenburg. So far, Nova Scotia continues to exceed all expectations!
See you VERY soon Caryl and Sideways.
Celebrating a Legend – A deep bow of respect for the passing of Bob Barker, age 99. The beloved host of “The Price is Right” from 1972 to 2007. Alisha and I went to a live show in her teens. Standing in line from the crack of dawn, it was worth the early rise, Mija.
The 1972 hit by Carly Simon, “You’re So Vain”, is one of my favorites, especially this part of the third verse, “you flew your Leerjet up to Nova Scotia, to see the total eclipse of the sun”. A fan of Simon’s music from a young age, exploring Nova Scotia was very high on my bucket list.
For my niece, Carly. Click this link to see and hear your namesake, Carly Simon performing live! Can’t wait to see you in NYC!
Commodore’s Quiz
Hey Commodores Greg and Gary, what are people who live in Nova Scotia called?
St. Peter’s, NS
The marina is run by very friendly volunteers from the Lion’s Club. As we tied up in the well-maintained marina, we found yet another adorable Rosborough from Florida. Hello to Melissa and Mike Read.
We did have a starry night – but without a camera with a high f/stop, it’s impossible to photograph. With a fun app, introduced by Chris, you can get a sense of how strong the stars were.
Baddeck, Cape Breton Island, NS
This quaint town is peaceful and sweet in the summer. Winter population is less than 1,000. Baddeck is also the summer home of the Grosvenor family, descendants of Alexander Graham Bell.
Perfect time for a dinghy ride
Traveling by water you get a close-up view of the lighthouse.
Inside the Yellow Rectangle with a Nat Geo Legend
Tied up at the Baddeck city dock, we received a warm welcome from several members of Sandy Grosvenor’s family. Say hello to Graham Grosvenor and his legendary father, Gilbert “Gil” Grosvenor.
Graham and Gil Grosvenor on board Exhale
Thank you, Gil and Graham, we are eating your lobsters tonight!!
Born in 1931, at 92, Gil Grosvenor is spunky and witty. Gil is the great-grandson of Alexander Graham Bell.
Alexander and Mabel Bell made Baddeck their summer home beginning in 1885. Mabel, who was 10 years younger than Alexander, had a fabulous sense of humor, as noted in one of her letters found in the Alexander Graham Bell museum:
“… it was impossible to see your stars last night. I am sorry because I wanted to see them because you were so anxious that I should, and because now we shall have to sit up again, and Oh dear it is so hard to care two pence for anything in heaven above or the earth beneath at four o’clock in the morning. “
Stock Photo: Alexander Graham Bell Museum
The stories of Grosvenor and National Geographic
The National Geographic magazine dates back to 1888. That’s 135 years! Without a doubt, the exquisite photojournalism inspires humans, young and old, to explore our earth.
For me, the extraordinary stories found in National Geographic sparked awareness of, and appreciation for, our fragile world. Growing up in a rural Alaskan setting, I was an avid reader. My love of traveling was directly influenced by the glossy photos and in-depth stories. Passing on the tradition a few years ago, our teenage grandson Leo is now enjoying the remarkable magazine.
Alexander Graham Bell was one of the original founders of the National Geographic Society. The first full-time editor of the National Geographic magazine was Bell’s son-in law, Gil’s grandfather, Gilbert Hovey Grosvenor (1899–1954), followed by Gil’s father – Melville Bell Grosvenor (1957–67). Our visitor, Gilbert Melville Grosvenor, was the third-generation editor (1970–80), later taking over as president of the National Geographic Society (1980–96).
Our friend Sandy is the great-great-granddaughter of Alexander Graham Bell (her father was Gil Grosvenor’s brother).
About a year ago Gil authored a book that you should definitely order (that is unless someone special already bought it for you, Sideways, just saying).
Click here to order this book on Amazon! A Man of the World: My Life at National Geographic. This description is from the Amazon website, “filled with pirates, royalty, treasures, frostbite, shipwrecks, impenetrable jungles, hidden tombs and ancient temples.”
Gil told us he wanted to title the book “Inside the Yellow Rectangle.”
Changing with the times, National Geographic has fully embraced the use of social media platforms. Currently, its Instagram Page has 282 million followers, reportedly the most of any account not belonging to a celebrity. As more and more online followers elected to “Experience the world through the eyes of National Geographic photographers” in 2022 circulation of the printed magazine dropped to roughly 1.8 million. By comparison, readership was around 12 million in the late 1980s.
Now owned by Disney, I was saddened to read in the Washington Post, “as of June 2023 the magazine laid off all of its staff writers, shifting to an entirely freelance-based writing model. Beginning in 2024 it would no longer offer newsstand purchases.” Perhaps a more positive perspective, the shift away from “news that is fit to print” is good for the trees.
More Grosvenor Family members!
Gail Bernstein and Sara Grosvenor
Thank you to Sara, who went out of her way to say hello!
Finally, a BIG thank you to Sandy, the queen of crab cakes, for sending us to Baddeck. Say hello to Ironbear and Grogu, continuing the Grosvenor family tradition, they are world travelers, currently in the Netherlands!
Today, Sandy is busy as an International Judge at The Hague, and the World Sailing World Championships. That’s not a typo by the way. Here’s the schedule.
Pawel Tarnowski iQFOil medal series
St. Peter’s, NS again
We circled back to St. Peter’s for one night. Paul and Donna, this time we got to dine at the Bras d’Or Inn, where we finally learned the meaning of Bras d’Or.
No Commodore, it’s not a lady’s garment, the translation is arms of gold. And the food was fantastic.
Fishermans Harbour, Guysborough County
Today we are weathered in at Fisherman’s Wharf. It’s a well-protected little cove.
Craig Adford, what do you do when you can’t travel on the waters? Fish, of course!
London. Age 8! Great fisher woman
A fish for Craig
Dinner on board Tonto’s Reward – A question for #8
While Gail B was making another wonderful dinner, she noticed the spice you introduced, #8,Slap Ya Mama, is labeled kosher. Intrigued by the kosher-ness, here is Gail’s question for #8, “if you sprinkle a kosher spice on your food, does it make the food kosher?”
For the tribe, what do you think?
Wondering where we are? Here’s the exact coordinates!
Trivia answer for the Commodores
People who live in Nova Scotia are called “Nova Scotians”. It’s good to have an easy quiz once in a while. There are over 900,000 of them; over 400,000 of whom live in Halifax.
Celebrating Milestones
Happy Birthday Alisha, from Buttercup!
Anniversary: August 19, Danielle and Sandra; August 20, Ann and Howard celebrating 45 years;
More Birthdays: August 21, Tom Turke; August 23, Matt Jackson.
Up Next: When the weather clears, we are headed to Halifax. Meanwhile, Nova Scotia has exceeded all expectations! Jim and Susan, we can’t wait to see you!
Old Farmer’s Almanac (that’s the Greatest of All Time (G.O.A.T.) resource) reported the full Sturgeon Moon would reach its peak on Tuesday, August 1, 2023, followed by a full Blue Moon on Wednesday, August 30, 2023—the closest supermoon of the year.
Moonlight over Gaspe fishing fleet.
Why is it called a sturgeon moon? The almanac chimed in again, “Giant sturgeon of the Great Lakes and Lake Champlain were most readily caught during this part of summer.”
Sturgeon – the Dinosaur of the Great Lakes
Referred to as living fossils, these prehistoric-looking fish have been traced back 136 million years.
Credit: Tennessee Aquarium.
Sturgeon means “the stirrer,” the fish stirs up the mud and silt on river and lake bottoms. Pointed snout and whisker-like tactile organs near the mouth. Today, there are about 29 species worldwide, including the lake sturgeon found in the Great Lakes.
Stock Photo, Werk and Snells tag and release record sturgeon
Weird trivia: Spawning Cycles – female sturgeon start reproducing around 20 years of age, but they only produce eggs every 4 years. However, the ladies have been known to live up to 150 years! As a comparison, most Pacific salmon live 4 or 5 years, on average – and they only lay one batch of eggs, dying a few weeks after spawning, hence the AK Humpy’s t-shirt “Spawn ‘til you Die.”
I’ll do the math for you. 150 years minus 20 = maximum 130 reproductive years (you are right, at some point the mammoth mama fish will demand a rest, but it’s just a math exercise). Divide 130 by 4 you get up to 32.5 egg laying events. And we thought the Montreal Catholics were prolific! No wonder the sturgeon has lived so long, perhaps that is the ultimate Revenge of the Cradle.
Sturgeon have also been compared to zombies, because they’re never quite dead. They keep returning. At this point, I feel compelled to share the song stuck in my head. Thanks, Madonna and Weird Al, here’s a link to the 1985 hit, “Like a Surgeon”
Gaspe – Story Rocks
Slow cruising offers the chance to absorb and analyze your scenery. For me, the rock cliffs can be like cloud formations.
Do you see multiple faces in the rocks?
Historic Gaspe
Within a short walk from the marina we found an array of cozy restaurants – the smile on our server’s face was indicative of the warm and friendly reception we found in this adorable town. This cool t-shirt is for Tony.
Where there is wind, there are sailing schools! Sailing, take me away …
A unique set up, the marina has a miniature artist enclave located on the board walk. Meet Conrad Legere, local artist.
Inspired by the fishing boats in the harbor, this little treasure is now on board Exhale.
Sunset over Caraquet
Sunset fishing
Possibly my favorite photo, local fishermen evoked a moment of serenity and happiness.
Bay du Vin Island, anchored out.
The serenity of anchoring out.
Exhale at anchor
Followed by a 5:38 am wake up call. Oh how I hate early morning departures.
Wake Up bugle call at 0538 hours.
Notice that red sky – it should have been a warning to all. The seas got choppy, with another puke fest for the pupster and first mate. Thankfully there was only one irreparable tragedy.
Shediac
Train station art, zoom in, Mija, it’s a statue painting the exquisite mural!
Summerside
We were shoe-horned into a cozy side tie, thanks to the navigating skills of both Capt. Rick and Capt. Gail (yes, she docks Tonto!), there was room to spare.
It reminded me of Mija’s ability to parallel park in hilly SF in a certain red Honda civic, under manual power!
Charlottetown, PEI – Mussel Mania
Sweet Molly Malone … crying Cockles and Mussels, alive alive ‘o!, singer, Sinead O’Connor. Alisha, this YouTube Irish Ballad will give you sweet shivers!!
Thank you for listening.
Charlottetown, PEI
Our self-appointed ambassadors, Paul and Donna, met us in Charlottetown.
Really fresh mussels are best served with toasted bread and a gentle sauce. And best eaten with good friends so you can share the yummy-ness. While in PEI, we ordered them every chance we got.
Donna Oates and Gail Bernstein enjoying FRESH mussels.
Charlottetown Yacht Club
Boater’s Tip: The reviews on Active Captain are outdated. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at CYC. Reid, the new dockmaster, has a friendly crew that takes GREAT care of you and your boat. The restaurant above the marina office is fabulous! Overall great service and delicious food.
Charlottetown Wednesday night sailing Regatta
Kensington
The rain and wind kept us in Charlottetown longer than expected – giving us the opportunity to visit a VERY special place – thanks, David B for securing a rental car.
Repurposed rain boots, for Ashley
Anne of Green Gables Museum, Kensington, PEI
Did you read “Anne of Avalon”, or “Anne of Green Gables” by Lucy Maud Montgomery? Did you see the movie (there were several)? Catch the musical “Anne & Gilbert” on stage in Canada, Europe or Japan? Or did you watch the Netflix series “Anne with an E”?
If not, here are the cliff notes: Published in 1908 (YEP – that’s 115 years ago) by a Canadian author from PEI, it’s the endearing story of a precocious red-haired 11-year-old orphan sent to a farm in PEI – to the disappointment of two aging siblings who intended to adopt a boy to tend to the strenuous chores.
Built in 1872 – a home where the author and her Aunt Annie and Uncle John once lived – the tiny museum is a freaking cash cow, with a steady stream of visitors, and wedding events.
This organ is still in use!
The heart-warming story has been translated into 36 languages and sold more than 50 million copies. Now that’s a strong marketing team!
Translations Russian, Polish, Slovakian, Japanese, Korean, Hungarian, and Hebrew.
Kensington Station, PEI
This is for all the folks familiar with the northern CA community with the same name.
Victoria – lighthouse!
The island drive took us to Victoria, another lovely little town.
Have you noticed the influence of the crown on the town names in Canada?
In PEI you find Alberton, Charlottetown, Kensington, Kingston, Montague, Wellington, Victoria, York – just to name a few. English named places in Nova Scotia include Liverpool, Manchester, Oxford, Windsor, Halifax and many, many more! Here’s a fun list from Wikipedia.
Thank you Ambassadors, Paul and Donna
A special thanks to these amazing new friends from Ottawa, who made our French speaking experience so smooth, they also introduced us to some yummy wines along the way. We can’t wait for you to get your new Palm Beach! Meanwhile, you have an open invitation to stay on Exhale, if that’s acceptable.
Donna Oates and Paul Belisle
Hey Tumbleweed – we know what you mean about time slipping away! This post covers two weeks of travel!!
A personal note to the duck people, good to know it’s all in a row. Impressive that the ultra-boring sea town of Crisfield found a way to attract a few visitors.
Celebrating Milestones: Birthdays: August 10, David Hendry; August 11, grand-nephew Romeo turned 10! Anniversary: August 12, 2023, Mike and Sue Gillespie
Next Up – Celebrating Carly Simon in Nova Scotia! Although the total eclipse happened earlier in the year, we ARE living the dream.
Thanks to our followers for providing the following revisions. Keep those comments coming!
Frontibus, a microbrasserie
It was incorrectly reported that Frontibus was a meaningless word [conjured up by the owner].
Correction provided by David B., Tonto’s Reward: The term frontibus is taken from a French drinking song titled “De frontibus”; the lyrics include “au frontibus, au nasibus, au mentibus, au ventribus and au sexibus”.
Still a meaningless word, just attributed incorrectly. Thanks, David!
Tribute to Sinead O’Connor
Capt. Rick noted, some may find this tribute and commentary controversial. He’s speaking the truth!
In 2017, Alisha and her cousin Suzanne (both born in AK) battled cancer (correction: Suzanne was diagnosed with Hodgkin lymphoma, Alisha was diagnosed with a rare form of aggressive breast cancer), causing them both to shave their heads.
2/6/2018; Suzanne Hildebrand and Alisha Silverstein, two powerful women!
Thanks, Mija for the correction
Ray – we are still looking for whale photos!
And Heather, thanks for your never-ending support 🙂
Originally called in French the “Grande Anse”, then the “Grande Baie” the resplendent small port made us feel like we just stepped onto a movie set.
Holland America cruise lines started the lovely development back in 2009, assembling an attractive port terminal, information center and tour bus depot.
Within close walking distance is a state-of-the-art pavilion. Perfect for line dancing to country music (in French), the spectator area consists of built-in stair-stepped seating. Two very busy local restaurants (not shown) overlook the energized gathering space.
Now that was fun!
Just one block from the port terminal (within sight) you find photo worthy residential areas. BUT walk one more block and you might feel like you just stepped beyond thelens of the movie camera. Forget finding an ATM, or any form of shopping. Art galleries, boutiques and eateries are notably absent, eliminating the prospects for entrepreneurs.
The shortage of amenities was perplexing – given the expensive looking structures found at the port – until we learned the cruisers are offered one of two options: 1) behold the countryside by bus, or 2) view the fjords on a zodiac boat.
The dancers we saw earlier, they began their festivities well AFTER the cruise ship departed. Concluding the port name Bay of Ha! Ha! is ironic, especially since “HA” is the acronym for Holland America, probably not a coincidence.
Tadoussac
Capt. Rick says this is one of his favorite new spots in Quebec Province, thus far. Yes, we went there twice, both before and after Saguenay.
Funny signs: Don’t walk on the wall.
For John: Last Pub for 240 km, that reminds us of Arkansas!
Le Gibard, a notably pink structure, has an eclectic feel, and it serves a delicious pizza.
Bear pic for Bert and EJ
Ste-Anne-des-Monts
When you name your town after a Saint, it is appropriate to have the most prominent building be a breathtaking cathedral with the same name.
Thanks, Paul for arranging the private marina!
Tonto’s Reward and Exhale, Ste Anne
Drapeau Blanc, Ma Statue de la Liberte, 2008
A phallic collection of driftwood or just the makings of a gigantic bon fire? You decide.
Sunrise departure at 5:33 am
Although I am NOT a morning person, I do love a gorgeous sunrise. For Dave Lubs.
Riviere du Renard
Again, assisted by Paul, we stayed at a well-protected marina as the wind continued to gain in strength. Reminiscent of Homer, AK, we were surrounded by commercial fishing boats.
A Gargantuan Travel Lift
Several years ago, we told the story of our search for a boat yard with a travel lift large enough to hoist Exhale, to repair a busted prop; Capt. Rick says fully loaded she weighs roughly 60,000 pounds (30 tons). Followers of Tonto’s Reward also know about her roundabout route mid-June to Sodus Point, NY; a marina that could lift her beefy mass – weighing in between 44 and 53 tons, depending on her load of fuel, water, and ships stores (including the liquor cabinet).
The travel lift at Marinard is designed to pick up hefty fishing boats, weighing up to 300 tons (imagine 10 Exhales)!
Heave Ho, Bessy! Breaking a Record
With a capacity of 1,120-tons, Bessy broke the record in 2019, reigning as the strongest hoist in the world. Wondering where she is located? Her name is a solid clue. Heather and mOrk know, the BSEMaritime Solutions-Cairns Slipway shipyard is in Cairns, Australia.
Stock Photo, Bessy
An International Competition
Okay followers (especially Commodore Greg and Commodore Gary), do you know the size and location of the world’s largest mobile lift that dethroned Madame Bessy in 2021? It’s okay if you scroll to the end of this post if you are overly curious.
Frontibus, a microbrasserie
Riviere du Renard has one restaurant close to the marina. Fortunately, it is very good! Dominated by images of a red fox, we surmised the translation of Frontibus would be fur-related, but both iTranslate and David B’s Google translator reported the English translation is simply “Frontibus.”
Thinking the apps were flawed, we queried the friendly wait staff, who happily explained Frontibus was a meaningless word (correction provided by David B: the name frontibus is taken from a French drinking song, conjured up by a folk singer, the lyrics include “au frontibus, au nasibus, au mentibus, au ventribus and au sexibus”).
That reminds me of a vanity plate that is tough to decipher, if you are thinking about creating a special plate, here’s a fun link: https://licenseplategame.com/generator/
For example, BTERCUP = Buttercup, and 2N2RWRD = Tonto Reward
The server at Frontibus did shed some light on the significance of the ever-present fox images. This red-hatted fox is for Tony.
Still Reading? Riviere du Renard means River of the Fox, Voila! For Ray, we found a delicious French micro beer, Rousse [translation red, of course]!
Buttercup
Buttercup was more than happy to hold still for an extra day while the wind dies down.
The world’s largest Marine Travel Lift
Here we go. In 2021, the record was broken with the launch of a 1,500-ton mobile lift – now the largest of its kind in the world. The $6.5 million mega-yacht lift can accommodate power and sail vessels measuring up to 250 feet in length. Dimensions of the mammoth lift? 85 feet tall, 73 feet wide and 105 feet long! That’s substantial enough to pick up superyachts, commercial vessels and naval craft.
Manufactured in northern Italy, where is this custom-built hoist now, Commodores? Drum roll please … Derecktor Shipyard, Port of Ft. Pierce, Florida.
Here she is:
Stock Photo
Its recent lift of M/Y Coral Ocean, a 240-foot (73m) Lürssen weighing in at almost 1,300 tons, makes it the largest yacht hauled using strap lift technology, anywhere in the world. That is until a bigger one is built, let the universal competition continue!
IN PASSING
ADVISORY: The following tribute includes personal commentary from this blogger that may be controversial and/or inappropriate for children.
Saddened by the news of Sinead O’Connor, both my daughter and I were big fans.
Sinead O’Connor, SNL stock photo October 1992
In 2017, Alisha and her cousin Suzanne (both born in AK) battled cancer (correction: Suzanne was diagnosed with Hodgkin lymphoma, Alisha was diagnosed with a rare form of aggressive breast cancer), causing them to shave their heads.
Suzanne Hildebrand, Nov 2017
My daughter, Alisha, remains proud of her resemblance to Sinead, which she embraced with great strength as Mija fought, and won, her battle with Cancer.
Alisha Silverstein, December 2017
In honor of O’Connor here’s an excerpt from The Independent (click to read the full October 2022 article, published after Sinead released her 2021 memoir).
Her green eyes gleaming with determination, Sinéad O’Connor stares into the cameras at the Saturday Night Live studio . . . and holds a photograph in front of her face. The picture is of a Brazilian street child shot dead by police death squads. It’s 3 October 1992 and O’Connor is rehearsing her cover of Bob Marley’s “War” for her performance on SNL that night. The child’s photo is a calculated distraction. For her real appearance, she’ll proffer another image entirely. And the response will be very different.
“I sing ‘War’ a cappella. No one suspects a thing,” O’Connor recalled in her 2021 memoir, Rememberings. “But at the end, I don’t hold up the child’s picture. I hold up John Paul II’s photo and then rip it into pieces. I yell, “Fight the real enemy!’” Her words hung in the air as she blew out the candles set on a table to one side. Darkness descended, in more ways than one.
In this blogger’s opinion, Sinead was a fearless, outspoken woman. I saw that 1992 SNL episode when it first aired. There was total silence as she walked off the stage. It was jaw-dropping.
This week I read about the story behind that defining moment. Sinead’s mother died in a car accident in 1985, when she was 18. Tragically, for most of her life Sinead was badly abused, physically and emotionally, by her alcoholic mother.
The photo of the Pope came from the wall of Marie O’Connor’s home in Dublin, one of the only things Sinead kept from her childhood home. Sinead hid the photo until the last moment of her a capella performance. Tightly focused on the cameraman (who had been told to zoom in during the rehearsal), Sinead dramatically tore up the Pope’s image; it was a VERY personal demonstration.
Celebrating Milestones – July 31, Ann Freedman; August 3, Andrea and Carly, August 4, Weston Wayne Sumpter Straley turns 10!; and August 6, Morgan Wasmuth turns 6!
If you like Montreal, you will LOVE Quebec City. Heather, you are right, this city is magnificent!
We recommend the 2+ hour historic walking tour of Old Quebec. Starting in the Upper Town district, the guided walk is gentle, mostly downhill. Alas, for us, getting to the starting point was grueling since we started at sea level and somebody in the group with bionic hips opted, we should all take the Escalier Casse-Cou (known as the “breakneck” 398-steps), with no leisurely time to enjoy the view. Thanks, Claude and JoAnn for making the trek!
Stock Photo
With even more stair-climbing and general touring throughout the day, Capt. Rick noted we well exceeded the recommended 10,000 steps for the day.
Samuel de Champlain
The Founder of Quebec City, our tour guide referred to the historic statute as “the man who wasn’t the man”.
Apparently, the likeness of Champlain, depicted consistently around the globe, was just an artistic representation; similar to the renderings of a certain religious dude, who was also never photographed.
Now for a few Places of note
Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac
Hotel Fairmont, known to have hosted meetings of FDR and Churchill during the WWII Quebec Conferences in 1943 and 1944. Although built to look like a castle, it has always been a hotel.
Majestic exterior
Magnificent inside
Inside the fairy tale hotel we found a boutique, with a VERY sweet dress – destined to a special person with a birthday in August …
Chapelle des Ursulines – Quebec City Monastery
Located in the heart of the Old City, the Monastery was founded in 1639; it is the oldest institution of learning for women in North America.
The chapel was originally finished in 1722, revitalized in 1902.
The iron gate – separating the main church from the chapel – serves to separate the cloistered nuns from the populace. Originally, heavy drapes kept the nuns from view, reformed over time to allow them to be seen, but still separated.
Although the school continues to thrive, in September of 2018, after 379 years, the last remaining Ursuline Nuns left the monastery. With less than 50 remaining in Quebec, it was reported that the oldest nun was 102, while the average age was 88!
Murals!
Street Art in action.
Music in the Street for Mom
Fun parking spot
Cap-a-l’Aigle – Cape Eagle
Mother Nature – a beautiful garden
Mother Nature
For John
Notre-Dame-des-Sept-Douleurs
Another photogenic lighthouse.
Baie de Tadoussac – Whale Watching
Take the time to do a little research to find the whale tour that fits your style. Croisieres AML offers several. For example, riding on a Zodiac in foul weather gear (provided) offers an experience that is up close and personal, but plan to get cold and wet. An enclosed pontoon boat also gets close to the marine life – with some protection from the elements; while a 3-hour tour on a multi-level cruiser offers covered viewing decks with a beverage/snack center, BUT you won’t get an up-close photo, unless you have a mega zoom lens.
The scenery was spectacular.
Photo by Rick
Yes, we saw whales, but we have no proof. So, here’s a lovely replica of a white Beluga, with fireweed, from the Marine Mammal Interpretation Centre.
A special hello to Ray and Caryl – from Salty Paws
A magnificent sunset for Dave and Holly Lubs
Repeating last week’s Boater’s Tip:When a little bit of poorly spoken French is not enough, just ask a friendly Canadian to interpret, especially when the taxi dispatcher has no idea where you are … But I will let Tonto’s Reward tell that story in Gail’s next blog entry. Stay Tuned!
For those of you who read Tonto’s Blog, you already know about the unexpected encounter at the Black Pepper!
For the rest of you, especially Trevor, here’s the gist. As we were finishing our exquisite meal in Trois Rivieres at the Poivre Noir (Black Pepper), Gail B., David B., Rick and I were approached by a dapper gentleman who introduced himself as “the former Prime Minister, Jean Chretien”. He said he was curious, where was David from? When David said “Florida, but my accent is from Kentucky” the friendly chap smiled as he explained he was the PM while both President Clinton and President Bush were in office {the 20th Prime Minister served from Nov 1993 – Dec 2003}.
David Bernstein and Jean Chretien
When his lady friend returned to the PMs table [I believe it was Senator Diane Bellemare], the former PM introduced David as “an American from Tennessee who is visiting on his boat”, close enough.
Circling back to our boater’s tip.
Unable to convey our pickup location to the French speaking taxi dispatcher, I saw the PM approaching us – where his chauffeur was patiently awaiting. Boldly approaching him one last time I requested his help. Handing him David’s cell phone, after an animated chat in French he secured us a taxi! Voila.
Before parting, as he climbed into a non-descript black minivan, the former PM’s quipped – “You can see, unlike my friend Bill Clinton, who had 6 bodyguards while visiting me in Canada, I am my own bodyguard.” A rather tall [1.83 m] and imposing figure, at age 89 the Right Honorable Jean Chretien was a notable, friendly Canadian.
P.S. It was easy to confirm the identity of the remarkable stranger, and even easier to prove he is still a close friend to Bill Clinton.
P.P.S. Perhaps the accents from Kentucky, Tennessee, and Arkansas sound similar, to some. Just Kidding, – for our K. T. and A. originals David B,Dale, Ann, Donna W, Doug B and my cousin John G.
Celebrating Milestones
July 28, birthday Diana Giraldo, feliz cumpleanos,
July 31, Ann Freedman
for Dave and Holly
Next Up: Bay d’ Ha Ha, or something like that – Saguenay
The St. Lawrence Seaway is intimidating, with vicious currents. Boaters MUST pay attention to the tides and should navigate a healthy distance away from the unforgiving seawalls.
Port d’escale Marina – Old Port of Montreal
The Old Port is located in the heart of the city. Take the time to explore the historic buildings, galleries, museums, cathedrals, spacious parks, and boutiques – but wear comfy shoes, it’s a LOT of walking.
Looking for restaurant tips? Follow your nose! There is no shortage of amazing places to eat. This lobster place was fabulous. Sorry, no food photos.
Jardin Nelson.
Thank you again to Ray and Caryl for introducing us to this restaurant gem, Jardin Nelson was worth repeating, with live jazz at lunch and dinner!
Hop-on Hop-Off Red Bus
Sold as a two-day pass, there are lots of stops worth exploring. The bus is supposed to arrive every 15 minutes, but make sure you are at a current pickup spot since construction changes the route on occasion. Unfortunately for us, the bus did NOT stop near the Notre Dame Basilica, although the website stated otherwise. Walking from the marina, the best pickup stop is at the Old Montreal Pointe a Calliere.
The two-hour tour is a great way to see the city.
Although you might end up with a lot of photos of people taking photos.
Photos from the upper level of the Red Bus
Inuksuk
Inuksuks are fascinating. Found in Canada, Greenland, and Alaska, the pile of stones serve as a landmark in the Arctic regions. Depending on how and where they are built, each marker serves a distinct purpose: directions, warning, marking a food cache, or maybe a place of reverence. In northern Alaska tall piles of stones are used to create drift fences for caribou herds, gently guiding the critters towards native hunters who plan to fill up their freezers.
Stock Photo: Wikipedia
The stone piles vary greatly in size and shape, influenced by the purpose of the pile and the availability of stones, of course. The “human-like” or cross-shaped stone pile is uncommon on the tundra, attributed to the arrival of European missionaries and explorers.
Exhale art collection from Alaska and Canada
Shoppers Tip: Symmetrical carved inuksuk are targeted to tourists. Look for something unique and meaningful.
Ferris Wheel Ride – now that’s a view!
Thanks to Gail and David, I got to see more of the city! Capt. Rick is not fond of heights, so he snapped a photo of us on the wheel.
photo by Capt. Rick
Can you see us waving?
View of Old Montreal from above
Cirque du Soleil – Echo
The newest Big Top performance, Echo, recently launched in Montreal. A tale about evolution, the acrobatic magic is reported to be spectacular. The Old Port marina is immediately adjacent to the circus tents, so we were really excited! Can you spot Exhale and Tonto’s Reward in the marina?
Taken from the Ferris wheeeeel
Location Services On
Bravo to T-Mobile. Yes, Emergency Alerts work in Canada. On our final day in Montreal our phones began blaring, “seek shelter, seek shelter”. Within an hour a dramatic storm occurred, aggressive wind, lightning strikes directly overhead, heavy rain and hail pummeled our boat, we later heard a tornado touched down a few miles away.
Plan B
Perhaps you have heard the old adage, “The Show Must Go On”. Except when the outdoor event is cancelled by a massive storm.
Although we missed out on Cirque du Soleil, when the skies cleared, Plan B was to venture out to a beautiful venue.
Great excuse for a yummy dessert
Departing early in the morning to match the tides, Tonto’s Reward navigated the seaway with grace and ease.
Marina Sorel – Parlez-vous francais?
In the Province of Quebec roughly 95% of the populous speak French as the primary language. And more than 70% only speak French (source, Wikipedia).
Don’t Panic travelers. Just a little bit of French can open doors.
Last time we were in Sorel, a place near and dear to Houlegan Again, Sideways got us into the Quebec marinas with his confident French. Inspired by him, I taught myself a useful phrase to get us into the Marina Sorel on friendly terms.
“Je ne parle pas francais, parlez-vous anglais?” If you can say, in French, “I don’t speak French, do you speak English” the response is often a clear “Yes!” Oddly, if you ask the question in English, you might just get crickets.
Boaters: We’ve got an app for that! I like iTranslate, David B uses Google Translate (free). With a little practice, you can learn just enough to be friendly. Surrounded by 7.2 million Canadians speaking French, it’s worth the effort!
Trois Rivieres (Three Rivers) Quebec
Marina Trois Rivieres is situated on an island, the river view is lovely, with well-manicured grounds.
The marina view is not so lovely. Exhale and Tonto were tied up immediately adjacent to the Kruger Paper mill. The mill generates “eco-friendly high-quality products”; perhaps “eco-friendly” just ignores the local environment because running 24-hours a day, it smells nasty. I mean REALLY PUTRID.
We left the smelly island for dinner; thanks to Paul Belisle we had reservations at a trendy waterfront restaurant in picturesque Trois Rivieres. The Le Poivre Noir (Black Pepper) is renowned for its authentic French cuisine. Thanks Paul, that was a memorable evening!
Boater’s Tip: When a little bit of poorly spoken French is not enough, just ask the first friendly Canadian you encounter to interpret, especially when the taxi dispatcher has no idea where you are … But I will let Tonto’s Reward tell that phenomenal story in Gail’s next blog entry. Stay Tuned!
Celebrating Milestones
Birthdays: July 22, Ray Houle (congrats on the boat transaction!); July 28, Diana Giraldo; July 31, Ann Freedman
Anniversary: July 22, Matt and Michele Jackson
Next Up: Quebec City – awaiting the arrival of Claude and JoAnn Welles!
Ottawa is the most spectacular “walkable city” we have ever experienced. Meters and miles of winding trails bordered by thriving parks and immaculate waterways. Although bicyclists are abundant, there is plenty of room for joggers and pedestrians to stroll along the pathways. Amiga, Diana G – a healthy co-existence – in the heart of a bustling city – is achievable!
We found a place to tie up along the wall of the canal, in the heart of downtown Ottawa.
Boater’s Tip: Power pedestals are found closest to the locks. A long power cord is a must. Mostly 30 amp, you can ask the parc staff for help. Red zones are reserved for electric tourist boats. BEWARE: Always lock your boat or vagabonds might climb onboard.
Rideau Canal Skateway
Just imagine a 7.8 km (4.8 mile) waterway that transforms into the world’s largest skating rink! Wikipedia says that’s equal to 90 Olympic Ice Hockey rinks. Skating season is weather dependent, typically from January to March. From downtown to Hartwells Lock, the winding skate way is free for all to use, accessible 24 hours per day.
Stock Photo, 2022
On average, the iced-over canal boasts one million visitors per year – that’s a LOT of hot chocolate.
Carefully monitored, the ice must be 30 cm thick before it is open to the public. A historic first, in 2023 the ice conditions were not thick enough to support the masses, so the skatewaydid not open. Global Warming is real, people.
After a lengthy hiatus – hampered by COVID and never-ending renovations at Parliament House – the daily Changing of the Guard ceremony is back!
Arriving early, Gail and I found a strategic viewing spot. It was the hottest day of the summer, so far, as we watched the majestic performance in the full sun. The marching band, in formal pomp and circumstance costume, wore heavy clothes that must have been ridiculously hot.
Gasp! As if to prove the point, a front row sax player suddenly succumbed to the heat. Well trained and prepared for any misstep, a medic appeared – like a moment from Harry Potter – whisking away the overheated musician. Equally impressive, she was immediately replaced by another sax player who stepped forward into formation, as if the switch was scheduled. Watching the medic escort the musician to a nearby ambulance, the gentle departure was clearly not intentional.
Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica
Inspired by the French Gothic Revival, the decadent Catholic church spared no expense.
Joseph Eugene Guigues, 1805-1874, the first Catholic Bishop of Bytown (now known as Ottawa)
This is for Tyler Hendry – pictures from Grandpa Rick
A few random photos here
Check out the Canada goose, bird gallery, fossil gallery (superb authentic dinosaur exhibit), and many more; it was worth the walk.
Mega Turtle dinosaur
Superstar of the mammal gallery was the taxidermist who expertly stuffed a plethora of animals, reminding us of the critters who came to life in Ben Stiller’s “Night at the Museum”. Creepy good.
Ptarmigan
With most bird species, males tend to be more colorful than females. Not the case with the ptarmigan. This fair and impartial bird is known for its unisex avian camouflage, designed to evade predators. Shown here in winter and summer attire, both male and female experience three seasonal wardrobe changes. Most unique – willow, rock, and white-tailed ptarmigans are the only birds in the world that go into full ghost mode, turning as white as the snow in winter! Also notice the feathers on the feet, making perfect snow shoes.
Question for Commodore Greg: Do you know why the willow ptarmigan is special to this blogger?
Museum Visit – Boater’s Tip: if you approach the museum and there are three (or more) school buses parked by the door, think twice before entering! The magnificent marble floors and expansive rooms are perfect echo chambers for undisciplined children – screeching like predator birds while running in the hallways. Chaotic disruptions translated into an early departure from a magnificent venue.
With that said, at the Canadian Museum of Nature we also observed several grandparents introducing their offspring to the wonders of the world. Tres Bien!
Stock photo: Dreamstime.com
Thank you to all the grandparents out there who introduce their descendants to galleries and museums. Personal thanks to Grammy and Poppy Silverstein who loved to explore the Met, the MoMA, the Museum of Natural History and many, many more. Nothing compares to spending a day at the museum, followed by ice cream (or New York cheesecake) with your Grandpa!
Spoiled by a French Guide – Merci beaucoup
Friends from Gulf Harbor, Donna and Paul Belisle, achieved a 5-star rating as self-appointed French guides. In addition to the countless travel tips provided by email, in Ottawa we received the royal treatment, including a lovely dinner at a local Thai spot, a private tour of the city, and a scrumptious dinner in their lovely home.
Best of all, on our last day in Ottawa we were assisted in the final Canal Rideaau Canal flight of 8 locks – with Paul handling lines on Tonto’s Reward and Donna on Exhale – making it VERY easy for both boats to navigate side-by-side down the narrow stair-stepped locks.
Thanks to Paul (note, his first language is French!), he secured our reservations throughout the province of Quebec. We hope you join us soon Donna and Paul; we are certain you will find the accommodations on Tonto “acceptable.” Ils n’ont pas de chien.
In the past, translations were handled by our Sorrel-born friend, Sideways. You should be here, Lit’l Houlegan!
La Fin – Canal Rideau Canal
We said goodbye to the Rideau as we completed our final section.
We returned to the Fairmont ChâteauMontebello, another exquisite experience. Five years ago we were there with Ray and Caryl, on Father’s Day weekend. WOW!
Fairmont Montebello
Hello Morgan! David B and Capt Rick enjoying pool time.
Olympic size indoor pool
Turtle encounter
Don’t get too close, Buttercup
Make the time to walk into the town of Montebello where you will discover several restaurants and historic sights.
Montebello Patron
Louis-Joseph Papineau 1786-1871 (sounds like pop-a-new).
Do you feel like you are surrounded by people speaking French when you arrive in Quebec? Why Yes! Thanks to this politician. Radical leader of the reformist movement, he made French the official language of the Quebec region dating back to the early 1800s. The sundial is a bonus. Batteries not required.
Now why is the Ptarmigan so special?
Commodore Greg did you guess correctly? The Willow Ptarmigan is the state bird of … Alaska (this blogger’s home state).
Willow Ptarmigan in the tundra, summer feathers red and brown.
If you like Cornish game hens, you might appreciate how delicious it tastes. Did I just suggest eating a state bird? Yep! Another fun fact, only three states permit hunting the state bird: Alaska (ptarmigan), California (quail) and South Dakota (ring-necked pheasant).
Celebrating Milestones
New Beginnings: Thank you Sarah Owen – Always Listening. It’s time to start a new chapter! XoXoXo
July 7, celebrating Buttercup; 365 days of belly rubs and poop-filled puppy, so far.
Archive Photo: July 2022
July 10, Anniversary: Jamie and David Hendry – celebrating 19 years; July 13, Birthday Laura Jo.
Canada Day is July 1. Celebrating the Canadian Confederation in 1867, Canada was the first independent dominion in the British Empire. 1867 was a very good year for the US as well, do you know why?
Hotel Kenney Rideau, Elgin, Jones Falls
Established in 1877, that’s 10 years after 1867 or 100 years before the birth of Ynot.
This old tree could be 100 years old.
The Hotel Kenney is located directly at the base of lock 42 along the Rideau Canal – a UNESCO World Heritage destination. Search for Jones Falls in Southeastern Ontario.
We were thrilled to return to Hotel Kenney. Under new ownership, the 20 waterfront cottages were fully booked for the summer, but the dock is plenty long enough to accommodate any boat. The quaint little lodge is magnificent.
The food at this little lodge is glorious. The worldly menu seemed eclectic, with a touch of Greek souvlaki (skewers of meat), Indian (butter chicken curry), and French (brie and of course Poutine) yet everything is 5-star flavor.
Make reservations for dinner when you reserve your slip – and don’t miss the Sunday brunch, the superb buffet is both sweet and savory. Open Wednesday thru Sunday, dinner starts at 5, the kitchen closes at 8pm
Boater’s tip, call 613.359.5500, or better yet, email: info@hotelkenneyrideau.com
Canal Rideau Canal
The French say Canal Rideau, the English say Rideau Canal; the multilingual signs use both.
Sources differ on the count of total locks, Wikipedia says there are 45 locks at 23 stations along the canal, plus two more if you take a detour.
If the locks were a flight (two or more locks connected together) you might see the same workers multiple times, especially if the parc team was shorthanded. Not a typo, in French it’s parc, not park.
North Pacific Rendezvous, Opinicon Lake
It’s fun to throw in a familiar French word here and there, like “rendezvous”!
Coming downstream from the locks was a nice surprise, a familiar NP45! Say hello to Ms. Proost from Cocoa Beach, FL. Traveling the waterways in the opposite direction of Exhale, they are enjoying the Great American Loop, while they wait for the arrival of their new NP49. Congrats Frank and Sandy de Heer!
Westport
Just a few pictures from this location. Introducing Finn the Bear – for Finny.
Spectacular Flowers
Clean air and long days of sunlight = vivid cheerful colors
While in Westport, we recommend dinner at The Cove. This was our view. Thanks Gary and Sharyn Morgan for spoiling us!
Trash on the Locks
Five years ago, traveling with Houlegan Again and Vagabond, we learned to leave trash on the canal walls. First task: Count the green shirts (even better, ask the first worker you encounter for a headcount). Second task: fill a paper bag with goodies to be left behind. In 2018, Maureen made it easy for us, taking charge of that fun task.
Contents back then were a wide variety, lunchbox snacks, packets of cookies, candy, healthy stuff like carrots and raisins, granola bars, trail mix, plus Halloween candy (that was Penny’s favorite) and Gatorade! The smile on the face of the receiving workers is priceless.
While the workers retrieved the “trash” from the lock, masked by the subtle gesture of a warm handshake, Capt. Rick would artfully hand out those little airplane bottles to the lock master, usually rum, whiskey, bourbon or Crown Royal – this one is from Sharyn .
This summer we continued the tradition with Tonto’s Reward, pooling our efforts so that one boat is in charge each day.
On Tonto’s Reward it was Sharyn Morgan’s assigned task, they also added beef sticks (VERY popular), lollipops, and other fun treats to the mix – until she and Gary abandoned us in Smiths Falls.
Smiths Falls
The expression from 5 years ago still rings in my ears, “Welcome to Shit Falls”, yelled the young girl on the lock wall. That was then.
This is now. We were surprised to discover the well-manicured park augmented by an upgrade of Main Street, introducing new retail and eateries.
Merrickville
Capt. Rick visibly cringes at the mention of Merrickville. It’s understandable, given the dramatic memories of where Exhale severely damaged her prop 5 years ago. The short version was Exhale mistakenly backed into a bed of rocks adjacent to the lock wall. Can you hear the metal twisting and crunching?
From the archives: 2018 bent prop
Attributed to early morning operator error, the crew survey concluded it was an “impaired driver” moment, possibly impacted by a decadent meal, paired with copious quantities of libations from the previous night, participants/witnesses: Craig and MO. We are happy to report the incident was not repeated on this trip.
While in Merrickvile, the Blockhouse Museum is worth the visit!
Hurst Marina, Manotick
Although this is a convenient location by car, the marina is lackluster, at best. Power is a limited and water depth is a bigger challenge.
Hello to Edith and Mike Frazer from SCYC. We had a fabulous meal at Black Dog Bistro in Manotick, ON. Thanks for making the drive! So sorry we did not take pictures.
Canada Day means wearing red, even Buttercup got dressed up!
Gail Bernstein, Canada Day!
The Swan was repeatable – the attitude was precious!
Boater’s Tip – depending on the size and draft of your boat, instead of Hurst Marina we suggest you try Manotick Marina, just up the waterway about 2 miles.
Morgan – this unicorn is for you!
1867 Was also a Very Good Year in the US! Why?
March 1, Nebraska became the 37th US State. Go Big Red!
October 18, Alaska was purchased from Russia for two cents an acre by Secretary William H. Seward. Journalists labeled it Seward’s Folly. So wrong. Not only was it a brilliant, lucrative, land purchase – no natives were annihilated in the process. In 1959, another good year, Alaska would become the 49th US State. And in 1977 (a REALLY great year) someone special was born on Sept. 15, 1977, the same year the graduating class of Seward High School equaled 33 students; 23 boys and 10 girls, including this blog writer.
Celebrating Milestones
July 1, Becky Weaver Browne; July 2, our oldest grandson Leo Perez; July 3, Kathy Avanzino; July 7 Reality Rodger Swink; and July 9 Anders Liljequist, Meanders, is 75!
Father’s Day dates back to 1909, according to Wikipedia, but did not catch on as a hallmark holiday until 1966 when Pres. Lyndon B. Johnson issued a proclamation that recognized the day. Pres Nixon gets credit for making it a national holiday in 1972, officially designating the third Sunday of June as Father’s Day, a smart choice since that neatly coincided with the first weekend of summer.
Happy Father’s Day to all the sweet dads out there. Let the hot dog season commence!
It all started with hot dogs
For Mike Gillespie – happy 79th birthday young man! And Tyler Hendry, who likes hot dogs now!
Two hot dog legends were slightly ahead of the Father’s Day craze when they opened a hot dog stand in the late 1930’s near the Santa Anita racetrack in CA, followed by a drive-in BBQ joint in San Bernardino, CA, that became a legendary burger joint in 1948. Talking about none other than Richard and Maurice McDonald, the founders of Mickey D’s.
When crotchety Ray Kroc bought out the enterprise in 1961 he proclaimed “NO hot dogs will ever be served” but Kroc died in 1984, giving a rebellious little community in Sodus Point the opportunity to open a “McSnack” in 1989, making it the only McDonalds at the time serving hot dogs. The smaller version of a McDonalds was open for a total of 4 summers.
We spent a lovely respite in Sodus Point, while Tonto’s Reward completed her repair work. The former McSnack shack is now known as Hots Point, serving Capt Rick’s favorite snack, ice cream.
There are lots of great dining options, we loved the energy in this spot!
ALWAYS 5 o’clock
Boater’s Tip: We highly recommend Katlynn Marine, the staff is exceptional, and the village is delightful.
A tree for Robinson Crusoe
Thanks to Paul and Celeste, who gave us some great tips. Captain Jacks was a great choice, we went there twice!
The Beach at Sodus Point
Do you know the Great Lakes?
Our journey will cause us to traverse multiple great lakes, so I thought you might appreciate a little geography quiz. Depending on where you live, most American adults should be able to name at least 2 of the 5 lakes, without seeing a map. If you ever lived near the lakes, you should be able to name all 5. David B suggested we should make the quiz a little more challenging, thus the lakes are shown here in random order.
1 of the 5 Great Lakes
#2 of the 5 Great Lakes
#3 of the 5 Great Lakes
#4 of the 5 Great Lakes
#5 of the 5 Great Lakes
How many of the lakes can you name AND how many have you visited? Boat not required.
Navy Point Marine, Sackets Harbor, NY
We could have spent an extra night or two at Sackets Harbor, seasonal boaters seem to be arriving this week.
Thanks for the restaurant tip!
Tin Pan Galley was great – Gail had enough lettuce left over from her portobello stack to feed a family of rabbits.
The tuna was delicious, and more manageable.
The Great Lakes Revealed
Here’s the map, with labels. Captain Rick has been to all of them, on the water!
In the same order as the quiz: 1) Huron, 2) Erie, 3) Superior, 4) Michigan, 5) Ontario. And for the data Capt Rick requested:
Celebrating Milestones
Birthdays: June 22, Ann Hughes (65!),Scott Sherman; June 23, Gonzo Gillespie; June 26, Joe Occhino.
Finally, some Father’s Day Flowers from Sodus Point.
Next Up: Clayton Village, New York. Heading to Kingston, Ontario very soon.
Special note to our Cell Phone provider: Dear T-Mobile, please keep us connected, as advertised!
To lock through a canal each boat must carefully secure itself adjacent to the canal wall. Most canals provide long lines for the boat crew to hold. Beware, the process can be thorny – as you continually adjust the tension of the line in response to the change in water levels.
sliiiiimy green walls
The lines in the locks along the Erie Canal tend to be slimy, so work gloves are a MUST.
Lesson learned: Shortly after the first swarmy lock on the canal, Capt Rick intentionally placed his soggy gloves on the foredeck, hopping to confine the grimy mess while they dried off. An hour later, the right glove of his favorite pair was nowhere to be seen, presumably it blew away.
Scrounging up a backup pair of gloves to handle the next set of dreadful lock lines, perhaps Capt Rick was suffering from short term memory loss, or misplaced trust that lightning won’t strike twice. Once again, he left the goober green pair of gloves on the deck floor to dry. And once again only the right glove flew away – leaving him with two left gloves for the remainder of the canal locks. Favoring the Left. Is it a political message? Nah.
Favoring the Left
If you want a deeper understanding of the NY Canal system, follow the blog of our fellow traveler, Gail Bernstein, Tonto’s Reward
Here’s a link to Gail’s fantastic post, including a fascinating history lesson – enjoy! New York State Canals
Riverlink Park, Amsterdam, NY
A quiet spot along the water.
Little Falls, NY
Nothing, I mean nothing was open in Little Falls. Timing is everything.
Rome
The next stop on our itinerary was Rome, but we opted to keep going since it was less than appealing with bars on the windows of the buildings near the canal walls. Buttercup did not understand how we could get so close to land without stopping. Pobrecito.
Wondering about that live grass patch? She stands on it, but she refuses to pee on it, even when the weather outside is miserable. Maddie was a LOT smarter.
Sylvan Beach
Tourism is the life blood of Sylvan Beach, typically beginning Father’s Day weekend – well after our visit.
As smoke from the Canadian fires filled the air, our walkabout was kept brief.
A little update on the fires: As of June 13, there were 450 active wildfires burning in Canada, with more than 4.8 million acres burned, according to the Canadian Interagency Forest Fire Centre. Raging wildfires in Canada have already scorched about 15 times the normal burned area for this time of the year: nearly 11 million acres — more than double the size of New Jersey — with more than 2 million acres concentrated in Quebec alone.
The wildfires started from lightning strikes in the western provinces of British Columbia and Alberta and have spread to the eastern regions of Nova Scotia, Quebec and Ontario. Yes, the fires are still happening in Nova Scotia, our summer destination. Let it rain, let it rain, let it rain.
Dodging the smoky air, we recommend the Canal View Restaurant in Sylvan Beach. Rather unique, the house wine is served in a handmade chicken carafe.
Chicken Pitcher #1
Chicken Pitcher #2
Ess-Kay Yards, Brewerton NY
Caryl, Ray and Brock Lee, M/V Lit’l Houlegan, met us in Brewerton. Surprise dinner the day they arrived: crab cakes, flown in fresh from Annapolis, handmade by Sandy and maybe Iron Bear! They were so delicious I forgot to take a photo. Thanks again, Caryl and grill master Ray, for the scrumptious lamb dinner on night 2!
Extra thanks to Ray, Capt Rick got to provision at Costco. Sorry, there are no photos of that event, either; but here’s one from the archives.
Never very far away. Life is Good when Rick can shop at Costco
For Piper
The meandering route along the Erie Canal offers lovely scenery and an occasional splash of local art. This is for our dear friends, the Jackson family in Belmont Shore – fans for life. Come join us!
Oswego, NY
Wondering where the heck are we? Starting at the Federal lock in Troy, we headed west at Waterford on the New York canal system. In total, we completed 30 locks in the State of New York when we finally arrived in Oswego.
La Parilla On the Water, Oswego
Local trivia: What do Gen. Colin Powell, Jerry Seinfeld, Barbara Walters and La Parilla have in common? Private chef, Raymond Jock! Read More Here
Our tastebuds were enchanted by the magnificent Mediterranean bistro found within steps of where we were docked. La Parilla On the Water, 24 E. 1st St., Oswego. Thanks, Chef Ray, for dropping by our table and for sharing your exquisite creations.
Seafood special: mussels, shrimp, scallops, and much more.
Sirloin chimichurri, cooked to perfection.
Meet power duo owners, Deanna and Brandon Lagoe. Ask for their privately bottled red wine from Portugal, Monte do Carrapatelo. The experience was top notch!
Oswego Lighthouse
Next stop: Detour to Katlyn Marine, Sodus Point, Lake Ontario – for a special Fleming moment (we shall let Gail tell that story in her next post!).
Celebrating Milestones: June 14, Flag Day, Anniversary Paul and Celeste Amish; June 15, Happy Birthday Heather Rutherford; June 18, Father’s Day
We returned to Half Moon Bay, wishing that #8 would arrive again by train. This location is convenient for car rentals (Enterprise closes early, check their hours). You can also tour by train.
The sunset is breathtaking.
Sunset over Half Moon Bay Marina
Boater’s Tip – the dockhands are “challenged”; trust your instincts when docking. RED FLAG: As you ease into a narrow slip also LOOK UP, if there is a chunky metal lift in the next slip protruding into your assigned transient slip, your docking space has suddenly narrowed. Beware, the sound of metal scraping is both loud and terrifying. AND, damage while docking is hard to resolve, especially in the midst of emotional confusion.
Samurai Sushi and Hibachi, Croton-on-Hudson
BEST sushi on the trip, so far. Highly recommended. It’s a long walk, or a short drive.
Sleepy Hollow is an easy drive (with a rental car).
Welcome to Sleepy Hollow Cemetery
Memorial Day flags commemorating Irving’s service
Sleepy Hollow Cemetery – Irving family plot
Gorge-ous Socks
As long as you are driving around, navigate to the Gorge, it’s a must see! Fashionable socks are just a bonus.
Touring West Point – History and Tradition Cemetery tour
Travelers tip: You can only book your trip to West Point online, the best tours sell out fast. Go early to enjoy the museum at the Visitors Center. The tour is a mixture of a bus ride and a LOT of walking. Bring water and wear comfy shoes. Our tour guide, Steve, was a wealth of information.
History: Overlooking the West Bank of the Hudson River, General George Washington recognized the strategic value of the fortress at West Point. In 1779 Washington moved his military headquarters to West Point.
Tradition: There are now seven chapels on campus, ranging in age and size. Some of them are shared by multiple faiths.
Our first stop was Cadet Chapel. We were told “attendance is no longer compulsory.” The lady next to me sneered, “maybe legally, but that’s not true in practice.”
Given the rigid placement of the hymnals, it’s hard to imagine anything is “optional” on campus.
Cadet Chapel, 1910.
The Old Cadet Chapel, built in 1836, is simple in its décor (sorry, no photos), with a wall commemorating past Commanding Generals – including a plaque for more than one of the men in the following quiz. Keep reading, Commodore Greg 🙂
West Point Cemetery
We walked though the cemetery, appreciating the shady trees. Unlike a national cemetery, grave markers vary widely.
West Point Cemetery
Colonel Markus, West Point graduate, was a founding father of the State of Israel.
Fun stuff about West Point: Our tour guide said roughly 10% of the 12,000 annual applications are accepted. Fact check from Mr. Google yielded 10.7%, trust but verify. In 2022 there were nearly 14,000 applicants. Average GPA was 3.9 – serious academic rigor. Also required: excellence in sports, leadership, and extracurricular activities. He also said on average 80% graduate. Schooling is fully funded (valued at roughly $250k), unless that cadet doesn’t graduate, then he/she may be on the hook to fully reimburse the program. Ouch!
West Point Quiz:
Quiz: Which of these eight men are alumni of West Point:
President George Washington (1732-1799)
Brigadier General Benedict Arnold (1741 – 1801)
Washington Irving (Author of “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow”) (1783-1859)
President Ulysses S. Grant (1822 – 1885)
General George Armstrong Custer (1839 – 1876)
General George S Patton (1885 – 1945)
President Dwight Eisenhower (1890 – 1969)
President Jimmy Carter (1924 – ) – He’s 99 years old and still kicking!
We said goodbye to Half Moon Bay, with another lovely sunset. Capt Floyd, you should have been here.
Hudson River Lighthouses!
Esopus Lighthouse
Kingston Lighthouse
Hudson River Maritime Museum
Boaters Tip – the museum is closed on Tuesday. Likewise, most (but not all) of the shops and restaurants are closed. It’s a nice time to cook on your boat.
If you time it right, you might get a local concert under the bridge, where the echo is perfect!
Donovan’s Shady Harbor
Another quiet stop.
I’ll spare you the battery replacement story. Let’s just celebrate that it was finished, and thank David Bernstein for the extra muscle.
This is for Ray and Caryl, obviously!
Waterford – Decision Point
If you read our blog from 2018 (found in the archives) you will know when you reach Waterford you must make a decision whether to traverse the Erie Canal or the Champlain. Height limitations, from fixed bridges, impact the choice. Since we took the Champlain route five years ago, almost to the day, this time we are headed west to explore more of New York!
Original Erie Canal
New York Canal System
Erie Canal, here we come. Dear Lockmasters, please be gentle in those locks!
Boaters tip: Wear Gloves! Have your boat hook ready, and plan to wash the boat when you finish. In the words of Capt Rick, Mister Toad’s Wild Ride now begins.
Schenectady Yacht Club, NY
Our first stop was quaint. Dockmaster Ed and the members of the yacht club were super nice. At $1.50 a foot, we were delighted. Thanks for the book!
Restaurant tip: Order Pizza to be delivered to the boat. Glenville Pizza & Deli Inc, 80 Freemans Bridge Road, Glenville, NY (518) 952-4101
Answers to the West Point Quiz – aka History Trivia.
Can you identify which of these 8 men, if any, were West Point graduates?
Washington, Arnold, Irving, Grant, Custer, Patton, Eisenhower, and Carter
Fortress West Point dates back to 1776; in 1802 it officially became the United States Military Academy, now known as West Point.
West Point Graduates = 4
President Grant, President Eisenhower, General Patton (Ole Blood and Guts) and General Custer (he’s buried in West Point Cemetery). Another example of the non-traditional military headstones.
Commander of West Point = 1
Not a graduate of West Point, Major General Benedict Arnold was given command of Fortress West Point in 1780 by President Washington, who was known to genuinely like, and admire him.
Wait. Isn’t that the guy whose name is synonymous with “traitor”. Yes. How did he fall so far from grace? Benedict Arnold claimed that he was being passed over for promotion by the Continental Congress, and that other officers were being given credit for some of his accomplishments. Maybe it was an HR thing.
Repeatedly, Arnold faced court martial. Charged with corruption, he was acquitted, more than once. But when Congress investigated his finances, it determined he had misappropriated government funds to maintain his lavish lifestyle. Forensic Accountants Rock, MO!
When the financial mess became public knowledge Benedict diabolically planned to seek revenge against his former ally, POTUS Washington. Conspiring with the Brits, he shared a wealth of military secrets and plotted the capture of West Point; in return, the Brit’s made him a Brigadier General.
Fortress West Point was never captured by the British.
A memorial plaque for Arnold hangs in the Old Cadet Chapel, sufficient details remain to clearly identify him, although his name is intentionally blotted out.
Not graduates = 3
President George Washington never attended college.
Washington Irving, author of “Rip Van Winkle” was named after the founding POTUS, he was also self-educated.
President Jimmy Carter graduated from the United States Naval Academy at Annapolis, Maryland, the heated rival of West Point.
Thanks for keeping us safe, Sideways, we love SeaBees!
Now, a Really Cool Boat Name: One Moor Day, saying Hi to boaters Andy and Lisa from Seneca Falls.
Celebrating Milestones:
Birthdays – June 1, Craig Adford, Anda Saylor, June Bug Skyllar, Mark Marlow; June 2, Sue Gillespie; June 3, Lorrie Swink; June 9, Finnigan; June 10, Debra McGhan.
Next Stops along the Erie Canal: Amsterdam Riverlink Park, Little Falls , Rome, Sylvan Beach, and Brewerton!
See you VERY soon, Sandy, Iron Bear, Caryl and Ray (aka Sideways)
Still Waiting for #8.
Once again we covered a LOT of ground in the span of a week, thanks for following us. Comments are encouraged!
We recommend staying at the Delaware City Marina, say hello to Tim and his lovely wife Beth (the feisty red head) . Their hospitality is top-notch. Charlie, aka Shorty, is also quick with the lines.
Boater’s Tip: The Marina is a continuous floating dock (no slips) with a side tie. 1) provide your true length overall 2) set fenders and lines on both sides of the boat as you will initially dock on the starboard side, then marina staff will help spin your boat around to the port side to depart with the outgoing tide. 3) The current is horribly strong near the marker at the channel entrance so don’t get too close, but also don’t get too far away as grounding is a real risk. Listen to the dock masters directions carefully 4) Do not miss the afternoon Captains meeting to hear the latest on the wind and water conditions for your departure.
Enjoy the local talent on the marina deck – brother and sister duet, delightful.
Also be prepared for an early departure, subject to tides and commercial barge traffic. We left shortly after 5 am!
South Jersey Marina – Cape May
For Exhale and Tonto’s Reward a two-night stay was too short. Sadly, with a boat repair underway, David B and Capt Rick did not get to explore the town.
Cape May Historic trolley tour!
Highly Recommended: Gail and Mary bought trolley tickets online, if it it looks like the tours are sold out, check back, we discovered they often add extra tours.
Sandy Hook – Weather Decisions
Buttercup often rides alongside Captain Rick in the Pilot House, sharing his wide helm seat.
We put a lot of thought and planning into when to “stay or go” because of the weather. Capt Rick has four separate apps that feed him meaningful data about the tides, the wind, the rain, and the depth of the water. We could see the conditions were not perfect, but we could also see the weather was predicted to get much worse, so we fired up Sally the seakeeper (stabilizer), and left as early as possible believing the winds are gentler in the morning.
Sadly, the water was rougher than expected and the bumpy ride made our young dog toss her cookies, literally and repeatedly. Tragically she was sitting on the lap of Capt Rick. I am sure you can imagine the mess. Drenched in doggy puke, Rick seemed unphased. After retrieving a change of clothes for Rick and some wet towels for the puppy my hypersensitive nose prompted a frantic dash to the galley sink, to sympathetically puke, multiple times. Another reason to be thankful for a garbage disposal! 13 hours later, we dropped anchor, followed by showers, laundry and a stiff drink. It was a rough day.
For us, anchoring out is usually a relaxing experience, but Buttercup greatly prefers to dock at a marina and then take a leisurely walk to a lush patch of grass to do her business. Anchoring out means she has to use the grass patch in the cockpit, while the boat is rocking and rolling in the waves, which she does not like.
Anticipating our trip to Sandy Hook, we acquired a patch of sod for Buttercup.
The Mighty Hudson River
The efficiency of the ferry system – back and forth from New Jersey to New York – is beyond compare as commuters whisk across the brutal waters, ripping up a current that is not for the faint of heart. It is also easy to visualize how the nimble captains were heroes, rescuing 155 passengers after Captain Chesley Sullenberger, “Sully”, flawlessly executed the water landing of Flight 1549 in 2009, known as the Miracle on the Hudson. Another great Tom Hanks, Warner Bros. movie, for Mija and other fans.
Boater’s Tip: Get OUT of the way and expect a heavy wake from the ferry traffic.
In 2018 the original Exhale anchored out behind the Statue of Liberty with Meanders and Vagabond; in the distance was Houlegan, again (well before we learned to love Sideways).
Liberty Landing
We recommend you dock at Liberty Landing where the view of Manhattan is magnificent!
There is also a magnificent restaurant near the marina, with a popular a game of chess.
A personal note: Happy Birthday Zach, my Grand Master Wizard.
Observing Memorial Day weekend in New Jersey and New York, a time of thanks and reflection.
Ellis Island
Tonto’s Reward joined us on a ferry ride from New Jersey’s Liberty State Park with stops at Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty.
It’s so nice when someone else takes the wheel.
Ellis Island National Museum of Immigration
Boater’s Tip: Take a bottle of water – it’s a LOT of walking.
Here’s the History lesson, Commodore Greg
Fun Trivia: Long before it became a way station for people looking for a new beginning, Ellis Island—named for its last private owner, Samuel Ellis—was a place where condemned prisoners met their end. For most of the early 19th century, the island was used to hang convicted pirates, criminals, and mutinous sailors. The last hanging was in 1839.
Ellis Island is overwhelming, just knowing that our ancestors came through there makes it a treasured visit. It was easy to imagine the music, and the chaos, of countless languages as anxious families went through the grueling process of medical exams and interviews, with the fear of being detained or rejected. On average, the inspection process took approximately 3-7 hours.
From 1892 to 1924, Ellis Island was America’s largest and most active immigration station, where over 12 million immigrants were processed.
David B noted on the tour that we were surrounded by a similar mixture of languages, and the sounds of English seemed less than dominant.
For Danielle and Sandra
Curious about your ancestors who came through Ellis Island, click here! The Passenger Search database contains records from 1820 to 1957.
Hudson River Beauties
As we cruised along the Hudson River we continued to admire the exquisite architecture of both Jersey and New York. Capt. Rick said this magnificent structure appears to have a private landing pad for George Jetson.
What do you think?
Little Island – Pier Park
Have you seen the park that seems to magically rise above the Hudson? NYC’s first “floating park,” a $260 million gift to the city from billionaire Barry Diller, is phenomenal. Little Island opened in May 2021. Designed by Thomas Heatherwick, Little Island is a public park that rises out of the water some 200 feet off Manhattan’s West Side. By land it’s Pier 51, located at 13th Street and Hudson River.
Photo: NY Times
The 2.4-acre project includes an amphitheater – what a fabulous venue.
Photo: NY Times
Thanks to the NY Times for the great photos, here’s the full article. NY Times Article
Celebrating Milestones
May 28, Brennyn; Scott Ginsburg; May 29, Doug Belknap, Joe Solari; May 31, Pamela Ledward
Anniversaries: May 26, Jeff and Patty North; May 27, Carly and Brandon Maurer!
Exhale on the Water 