I have finally found some time to start planning for the surgical
removal of the V12 (haven’t decided on the engine transplant yet, but
it will probably be an LT-1). At any rate, I understand that the
engine bay was always painted the same as the body color, and that the
crossmember, radiator support and a few other parts were painted gloss
black. I’m not going to a real stickler for getting this car as close
to factory specs (I’m not planning a show car)…what are some of the
paint schemes others have used for the engine bay?
BTW, the XJS I have is a dark blue (well, the unoxidized areas I can
find are dark blue!).
In reply to a message from Brian Koontz sent Tue 23 Dec 2008:
Brian:
Wing walls in body color. Insultors in silver. Header panels in
gloss or semi gloss black. Chrome wing braces would be an accent.
I wish I had painted my valve colors something other than the black
they came in. Chrome would be nice. Ast to the ram horns, I would
have done porcelain. but, I was gettingin so deep, I had to slow
down a bit.
I painted the down pipes in Eastwood aluminum. Should have done the
rest of the pipes. A glossy black drive shaft would look nice
against the cleaned and painted dust covers.
It just goes and goes!!!
Carl–
The original message included these comments:
I have finally found some time to start planning for the surgical
removal of the V12 (haven’t decided on the engine transplant yet, but
it will probably be an LT-1). At any rate, I understand that the
engine bay was always painted the same as the body color, and that the
crossmember, radiator support and a few other parts were painted gloss
black. I’m not going to a real stickler for getting this car as close
to factory specs (I’m not planning a show car)…what are some of the
paint schemes others have used for the engine bay?
BTW, the XJS I have is a dark blue (well, the unoxidized areas I can
find are dark blue!).
In reply to a message from cadjag sent Tue 23 Dec 2008:
Semi gloss or satin black…no gloss Euuuuuwwww! Have a look at
my photos link and click on my ‘‘the new tpi motor is in’’ link. Same
body colour as yours.–
Rob Wade
Windsor Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
In reply to a message from Rob Wade sent Tue 23 Dec 2008:
I do not see the reason to paint anything under the hood the body
color. I used black and my car is BRG. It is just how you want it
to look - there are no ‘‘rules’’ for a Lump. I wanted black and
chrome in the engine compartment.
I have done the Rams Horns on the SII in Cermichrome and it has
lasted for 5+ years. Costs under $100.00 for both of them and there
is no maintenance. Photos under Lump Forum and my name. I did not
smooth them down or do anything before sending them for treatment.–
The original message included these comments:
Semi gloss or satin black…no gloss Euuuuuwwww! Have a look at
But do it with a spray gun and not out of a can.
No matter what the mfg says, there is no way of getting the hardness in
paint that hardener and color gives. Use a can and a year or so down the
road you will wish you hand not. Use a gun and hardener/color method and it
should last forever.
Don’t ask me how I learned this one!!!
“Smitty” (Phoenix, Arizona)
1967 Ford Mustang RestoMod (302ci/340hp w/T-5)
Previous owner of:
1977 Jaguar XJ-S (350ci/TH350)
1973 Jaguar XJ6 (350ci/TH350)
1976 Jaguar XJ12L (L82/700R4)
Member of Jag Lovers since 1995!
In reply to a message from J. Rick Smith sent Tue 23 Dec 2008:
Smitty:
Yes, I can confrim that the spray can paint method does not last. I
did a lot of work sanding, taping and painting on the engine in the
S1 compartment before putting in the ZZ4 383.
A couple of years later it looks better than when I started the
process, but it is in need of touchup again. The paint is just too
fragile for working on in that area.
As in most things in life, do it the correct way or do it again
another time.–
The original message included these comments:
road you will wish you hand not. Use a gun and hardener/color method and it
should last forever.
Don’t ask me how I learned this one!!!
In reply to a message from J. Rick Smith sent Tue 23 Dec 2008:
Smitty:
Yes, I can confrim that the spray can paint method does not last. I
did a lot of work sanding, taping and painting on the engine in the
S1 compartment before putting in the ZZ4 383.
A couple of years later it looks better than when I started the
process, but it is in need of touchup again. The paint is just too
fragile for working on in that area.
As in most things in life, do it the correct way or do it again
another time.–
The original message included these comments:
road you will wish you hand not. Use a gun and hardener/color method and it
should last forever.
Don’t ask me how I learned this one!!!
Great advice from everyone…thanks for the input!On Tue, Dec 23, 2008 at 10:08:23PM -0700, J. Rick Smith wrote:
But do it with a spray gun and not out of a can.
No matter what the mfg says, there is no way of getting the hardness in
paint that hardener and color gives. Use a can and a year or so down the
road you will wish you hand not. Use a gun and hardener/color method and it
should last forever.
So where does one purchase this type of paint? I know nothing about
painting other than out of of a (spray/paint) can, but I’m willing to
learn. I figure I can’t screw up an engine bay too badly…
In reply to a message from ‘Brian Koontz’ sent Wed 24 Dec 2008:
Brian:
Somewhere on this forum is a reference to a company that provided
touch up psint in the spray can or by a can to match the color
code. It is lost on my old hard drive.
Either Eastwood or HF have refillable ‘‘spray cans’’. The local auto
paint store can charge these with the right color.
But, of course, if it as some variety of black, then just a small
can from the auto store of a good quality enamel will do just fine.
It’s the quality of the material more than how applied in this
case. Somewhat different than a body respray.
Some of the spry can stuff is actually pretty good, and some is
just the pits.
I found a touch up can of a Dodge metallic brown that actually was
resonably close to my Grosvenor Brown. Looked pretty good, now, it
is a bit mottled. The black I used on the header has stood up well.
So has the spray can stuff I sprayed on the various brackets I made
that were never mentioned in the John’s car instructions!!
So, on balance, I think I would use a two part material in view of
the harsher environment in the engine bay. I forgot what I used on
the much modified frame for my roadster. Etching primer followed
by the two can mixed black. Very shiny and durable.
Carl–
The original message included these comments:
But do it with a spray gun and not out of a can.
No matter what the mfg says, there is no way of getting the hardness in
paint that hardener and color gives. Use a can and a year or so down the
road you will wish you hand not. Use a gun and hardener/color method and it
should last forever.
So where does one purchase this type of paint? I know nothing about
painting other than out of of a (spray/paint) can, but I’m willing to
learn. I figure I can’t screw up an engine bay too badly…
You can go to any of the national auto paint suppliers, PPG, Sherwin
Williams, etc. and they can pre-mix (usually a 4 can minimum) of any flavor
you want.
“Smitty” (Phoenix, Arizona)
1967 Ford Mustang RestoMod (302ci/340hp w/T-5)
Previous owner of:
1977 Jaguar XJ-S (350ci/TH350)
1973 Jaguar XJ6 (350ci/TH350)
1976 Jaguar XJ12L (L82/700R4)
Member of Jag Lovers since 1995!
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-lumps@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-lumps@jag-lovers.org] On
| Behalf Of cadjag
| Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 1:03 PM
| To: lumps@jag-lovers.org
| Subject: Re: [Lumps!] Painting the engine bay
|
| In reply to a message from ‘Brian Koontz’ sent Wed 24 Dec 2008:
|
| Brian:
|
| Somewhere on this forum is a reference to a company that provided
| touch up psint in the spray can or by a can to match the color
| code. It is lost on my old hard drive.