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On the Road to Design
Thar She Blows
These five seemingly remote yet very accessible California hotels, inns and camps we love have fascinating stories and design backstories. by Zahid Sardar
Whales are among the largest and oldest animals on Earth, with a spectacular tale of evolution. Learn about common species, their migration patterns and find out some quirky facts, too. by Jeanne Cooper
LocalGetaways Local Getaways
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Why Big Sur is a Big Deal
On the Cover: Pool with Ocean View by Melissa Chandon, represented by Caldwell Snyder Gallery, caldwellsnyder.com
From places to stay, sights to visit and best times to go — here’s everything you need to know about one of the most beautiful places on the planet. by Mark C. Anderson
KRZYSZTOF WIKTOR / ADOBE STOCK
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Planner
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Annual springtime events in the Bay Area plus not-to-be-missed fests in Hawaii.
California Living Breathtaking coastal hikes for all skill levels, plus animal tracks you’ll see throughout the Bay Area.
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Eat
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Taco terms and top spots to find different varieties, as well as under-the-radar food towns.
Dose of Aloha The meaning and significance of Lei Day, unique culinary and spa experiences on the Big Island, and responsible ways to enjoy Maui and Kauai.
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Local Getties Drum roll, please: Announcing our first-ever Getties — Getaways, get it? These are our picks for best hotels, restaurants and activities in the Bay Area.
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State of Travel How these hotel brands have endured and survived the worst of the pandemic.
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Now in ruins, the Sutro Baths are actually the remains of a San Francisco mayor’s king-sized fantasy.
Interview Cicely Muldoon — a 35-year veteran of the NPS — was selected as superintendent of Yosemite National Park, the second woman ever to hold the position.
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BEN DAVIDSON (WALT DISNEY FAMILY MUSEUM); NICOLA PARISI (EAT)
Yesterday
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LocalGetaways Local Getaways CALI FORNIA
Where is your favorite Local Getaway? I’m a Libra, can’t answer that question.
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mimi Towle
Anywhere, everywhere!
PUBLISHER Nikki C. Wood
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Kasia Pawlowska ART DIRECTOR Lisa Hilgers
Any museum.
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Meredith Barberich
Anywhere I can be close to the mountains and water simultaneously.
Anywhere on a mountain.
Any design destination, architecture tour.
DIGITAL EDITOR Sabrina Tuton-Filson MARKETING MANAGER Kathy Murray
Anywhere where I can catch some waves.
SALES CONSULTANTS
Alex Fee, Cathy Kanuit ADMINISTRATION OPERATIONS Nikki N. Wood
Sonoma wineries!
The Sonoma and Mendocino coast.
CONTROLLER Kathy Stahl
EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS
Mark C. Anderson, Jeanne Cooper, Spud Hilton, Laurie Jo Miller Farr, Christina Mueller, Tamara Palmer, Matthew R. Poole, Dana Rebmann, Zahid Sardar, Audrey Towle, Jim Wood, Ann Wycoff CO-FOUNDERS
Nikki N. Wood Nikki C. Wood Mimi Towle
INTERN
Malia House
2022 Spring Issue Local Getaways is published in Marin County by 270 Media LLC. All rights reserved. Copyright 2022. Reproduction of Local Getaways content is prohibited without the expressed written consent of Local Getaways magazine. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Local Getaways reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the audience or that is in questionable taste. Local Getaways is a quarterly publication and mailed directly to homes and distributed through hotels in the greater Bay Area. Local Getaways, 4000 Bridgeway Ste 105, Sausalito, CA 94965, 415.462.6100
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Welcome to our first issue PUBLISHER This publication has been a labor of love for me, my cofounders and truly the best team in the business. Realizing that this pandemic is just our new way of life, we decided not to wait any longer and get to work on our new baby. We wanted to give our readers something to look forward to with this inspirational travel and lifestyle content. The support that we have received from our fabulous advertising partners is humbling. It has reminded me that although the world may look a little different, the sense of community is stronger than ever, as is the insatiable wanderlust and desire to live instead of exist. So, after being vaxxed and boosted I am living again. Whether it’s going to one of my favorite restaurants — Café Zoetrope, One Market, 25 Lusk, Alexander’s, Luna Blu — stopping by for fun get-togethers with friends at Park James, Cavallo Point, The Montage, Top of the Mark, or visiting some of my favorite museums and exhibits at Exploratorium (Thursday nights are back on!), Aquarium of the Bay, Van Gogh Immersion and one of my favorites, Club Fugazi’s Dear San Francisco, all with the intention to do the research for you, and to bring you more ideas of where to go and what to do. It’s also an honor to share some of the back stories that add color to these local businesses. Whether you’re looking for a big escape or a local getaway to a place you haven’t been, we have you covered in this first issue. If you cannot wait until our next issue, join us on our website localgetaways.com/california. And for those of you who are heading across the Pacific to Hawaii, we have you covered there, too, at localgetaways.com/hawaii. Ideas, suggestions, feedback? I’d love to hear from you. Write to me at nikki@localgetaways.com.
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR This issue you are holding has been in the works for over three decades. I know you’re thinking, “Did they plant the trees to make the paper?” Not quite, the Vincent Van Gogh quote “Great things are done by a series of small things brought together,” came to mind as we dotted i’s and crossed t’s on this premiere issue. Our founding partners have each been in the regional publishing for thirty years, and during the Great Life Shake of 2020/2021 ™, we found ourselves plotting a path that would bring together our collective passion for community and travel supported by ahem, decades, in the industry. After a Chardonnay-fueled meeting in my Houseboat in Sausalito, I remembered that my friend Matthew Poole hadn’t been doing much with his website, localgetaways.com. We Zoomed, we chatted, we texted, masked-up and met in person — and eventually came to a win-win agreement. In the Spring of 2021, we purchased the business from Matt who helped us update the website, fold in hawaiiislander.com (a side project I had been nursing for way too long) and relaunched on June 15th — yes, the very day California reopened. Lucky us, we had picked the date months earlier. Along came colleagues we’ve worked with and were thrilled to bring along and together we rode the ups and downs of creating foundational content, a weekly newsletter, a website offering travel tips for both Hawaii and California (just google “Best Sushi on Oahu”), and now, the premiere print issue rich with not only compelling content, but more than thirty years of experience and love for the Bay Area and beyond.
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Contributors MARK C. ANDERSON Writer, Why Big Sur is a Big Deal, Page 40 Most interesting fact you learned while writing this story? I was stoked to learn that the Pfeiffer Falls hike is back after nearly a decade-and-a-half of being closed off. Places your work has appeared: San Francisco Chronicle, Best American Food Writing and Edible Monterey Bay. I also appear weekly on KRML Radio.
JEANNE COOPER Writer, Thar She Blows, Page 46 Most interesting fact you learned while writing this story? Whale oil used to be the primary ingredient in margarine, up until the 1940s, when vegetable oil replaced it, thankfully. Places your work has appeared: Alaska Beyond, Southwest: The Magazine, Marin Magazine, Nob Hill Gazette, Sunset, San Francisco Magazine, Modern Luxury Silicon Valley.
TAMARA PALMER Writer/photographer, Tacos, Tacos, Tacos, Page 68 Most interesting fact you learned while writing this story? I honestly never knew that the rolled taco style known as taquitos was popularized in the San Diego area until I started researching this feature. The other types described in my taco glossary all happen to have roots in Mexico. Places your work has appeared: Food52, Alta, San Francisco Chronicle, Popular Science.
ZAHID SARDAR Writer, On the Road to Design, Page 32 Most interesting fact you learned while writing this story? While exploring design-worthy hotels in San Luis Obispo, I learned that this fascinating Central California town is not just home to the now-faded surrealistic Madonna Inn, but it is where the first motel was built and the Frisbee was invented. Places your work has appeared: New York Times, San Francisco Chronicle, Dwell, Cultured, Spaces.
AUDREY TOWLE Illustrator What did you enjoy the most about creating these illustrations?. Painting gives me the chance to really observe and appreciate every little detail of the subject matter, whether new or familiar. Most challenging part? Watercolors lend themselves to certain textures easily, but other textures, like the fur of a coyote or the texture of a battered onion ring, need more detail and so take more time to layer different colors.
JIM WOOD Writer, Yesterday, Page 82 Most interesting fact you learned while writing this story? It was by diving deeper into the history of Sutro Baths that I learned its founder, Adolph Sutro, held an ambition to enlighten the masses. At his baths, patrons not only exercised their bodies, but also strolled among paintings, tapestries and Egyptian mummies. Places your work has appeared: Coast magazine, Marin Magazine
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COVER ARTIST, MELISSA CHANDON: I found my voice through a process of analysis and reduction, and gathered my vision of Americana from my early years in Albuquerque, to working on the family ranch in the Sacramento Valley, and onto urban life. As a child of the ‘50s, road trips were my parents’ passion. They exposed us to the humanity of highways, small towns, truck stops, and KOA camping. I hope that sharing my view of the American landscape may bring about an effort to preserve the shared heritage of our recent past.
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A N I M A L T R AC K S | B I G I S L A N D LU X U RY | S TAT E O F T R AV E L | YO S E M I T E S U P E R I N T E N D E N T
Field Notes
Best Central Coast Hikes It’s no secret that California’s generous Central Coast region is
JIM EKSTRAND / ADOBE
breathtaking, but instead of clogging traffic and infuriating locals by taking it in via a life-threatening selfie by the Bixby Bridge, consider a more verdant route. Within this span of rugged Pacific coastline you’ll find miles upon miles of trails for all levels. By Kasia Pawlowska
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Best Hikes C EN T R A L COA S T HA L F M O O N BAY
Grabtown Gulch to Purisima Creek Loop Level: Moderate — 5.3 miles An old lumber region, there are plenty of stories about the origins of “Grabtown.” Some are rooted in thievery, while others point to land “grabs.” An item you will 100% want to grab before coming here is a jacket, as the deep redwood setting is damp and misty — especially at the beginning. With close to a 1,300-foot climb, this is definitely a challenge at times, but well worth it for the dense rainforest that envelops you.
S A N TA CRUZ
Old Landing Cove Trail Level: Easy — 2.3 miles A “must” if you’re in Santa Cruz. Mild enough for young kids and grandparents alike, this trail doubles as a multisensory nature and history lesson. Stroll along the coast and hear dozens of sea birds including pelicans and gulls. Sea lions are
another vociferous staple. Check out the remnants of the old Wilder family dairy, the farm machinery, and the debonair antique cars. Whale watchers: December through April is also peak whale migration season.
BIG SUR
Overlook Trail to McWay Falls Level: Easy — 1.1 miles If a trail could be a person, then this one would be Brad Pitt — this is the Big Sur path that takes you to those photo spots. Note: There will be chaos and people parking on Highway 1. Save yourself the anxiety by waiting and paying to park in the parking lot. Just a mile long in total, you’ll pass under the highway and hug the cliff oward the coast. McWay Falls will dutifully empty into the cove. On the other side, you can read about Julia Pfeiffer and take in views from the observation deck.
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Soberanes Point and Whale Peak Level: Easy — 1.8 miles When there’s an opportunity to see sea otters, you should take it, and there’s a good chance of that happening here. Located about 8 miles south of Carmel in Garrapata State Park, this trail is downright gorgeous and not too crowded. Well worth some low-key bushwhacking (hiking boots are highly advised), expect loads of wildflowers, a chorus of bird songs, and a very rewarding view from the mountain that often includes — you guessed it — whales.
WHO WENT WHERE WHEN? The Bay Area is home to more than 50 species of mammals, 250+ species of birds, 20+ species of reptiles, and 10+ species of amphibians. Some are rare enough to be listed as federally endangered or threatened. But many of these wild animals are highly adaptable and can be seen in many of our open spaces and even our backyards. According to Richard Vacha, who offers classes and workshops at the Point Reyes Tracking School, these are the five animals you’ll see most places in the Bay Area.
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Guess which tracks belong 1
to which critter — email
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connect
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@localgetaways.com to win four tickets to the
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Exploratorium. 5
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KASIA PAWLOWSKA (MCWAY FALLS); AUDREY TOWLE (ANIMALS)
For more info, scan here
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H AU T E A N D C O O L
On Hawaii Island
Resorts create culinary and spa experiences to court Bay Area cognoscenti. By Jeanne Cooper
LEI DAY IS MAY DAY In 1928,
Honolulu Star-Bulletin society editor Grace Tower Warren proposed May 1 as the date for the first festival. Today you’ll find Lei Day parades and concerts held around the islands. Share some May Day Aloha by sending a lei to loved ones. alohaislandlei.com
r Four Seasons' newly expanded villas
convinced Roth, a shipping heiress and San Francisco socialite, to build a mansion nearby, founding a multi-generational tradition of well-heeled families holidaying at the Mauna Kea. With the help of Laurene Powell Jobs, the long-shuttered Kona Village where her late husband once enjoyed family retreats is expected to reopen in 2023. In the meantime, neighboring Four Seasons Resort Hualalai has hardly rested on its laurels as Silicon Valley’s go-to island oasis. A recent $100 million renovation brought new furniture, decor and bathroom finishes to 249 guest rooms, added second-story, indoor-outdoor living spaces to three luxury villas, and created an infinity-edge pool and marine education center by its famed King’s Pond snorkeling aquarium. The beautifully reimagined Mauna Lani, now part of the Auberge Resorts Collection, had just opened when the pandemic forced it to close for eight months in 2020. Since then, a slew of discreet celebrities and more visible Instagrammers have gravitated to this stylish resort set amid historic fishponds and turtle-lined coves. Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop caters to the new clientele with one of its handful of real-life stores tucked next to the hotel spa. The latter now offers the Goop Glow Facial, the brand’s first-ever spa treatment, which incorporates multiple “clean” products to exfoliate, detoxify, moisturize and brighten skin.
For more info, scan here
MARK KUSHIMI/HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY (LEI)
Whether following in the footsteps of Lurline Matson Roth in the 1960s, Steve Jobs in the 1990s or Instagram influencers in the 2020s, the Bay Area’s savvy travelers have long found a special niche for themselves on the island of Hawaii, aka the Big Island. With visitors back to prepandemic levels, three luxury resorts are now vying for special attention with exclusive experiences tied to our fascination with food, wine and wellness. At the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, the Icons of Wine series celebrates legendary winemakers and wines with special ties to the resort, à la Opus One. The late Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild came up with the concept for their Oakville winery in 1970 over dinner at Manta restaurant, overlooking the beach that had convinced Laurance Rockefeller to open a resort there in 1965. Rockefeller, in turn,
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PROMOTION
Malama Hawai‘i & How to Be P Travel Redefined in the State of Hawai‘i
Maui The Hawai‘ian word mālama means “to care for” or “to give back.” Local residents or kama‘āina have long understood their responsibility or kuleana to be good stewards of the land, but until recently, it’s a charge that was difficult to instill in travelers visiting for a brief period of time. The state of Hawai‘i, along with myriad businesses, including highprofile hotels and tour operators, have joined forces with nonprofit organizations to create the Mālama Hawai‘i program. The programs are designed with all ages in mind and provide visitors with an easy way to experience the true magic of the Valley Isle.
Mālama Maui Programs
Hawai‘i Wildlife Fund: Dedicated to the conservation of Hawai‘i’s wildlife, volunteers can take part in a number of activities including sea turtle or honu identification and nest watch. wildhawaii.org
Kīpuka Olowalu: The group is working to replace invasive species with native ones. kipukaolowalu.com Pacifi Whale Foundation: Dedicated to protecting the ocean, volunteers help with beach clean-ups and conservation efforts. pacificwhale.org
conditions of their community. namahiaiokeanae.org
Lāhainā Restoration Foundation: Sign up for hands-on preservation work on historic Hawai‘i artifacts and documents. lahainarestoration.org
Nā Mahi‘ai ‘o Ke‘anae (The Farmers of Ke‘anae): Offers
Surfrider Foundation Maui:
volunteer days at taro patches and farms on the Ke‘anae peninsula to improve the socio-economic
Dedicated to the protection of oceans, waves, and beaches. Clean up days info: maui.surfrider.org
Made in Maui
Shop responsibly from these local Maui businesses that embody the definition of caring for tradition and the land. Maui Gold
Looking for the ideal house warming gift? When the big pineapple plantations moved off sland, some employees got together to continue growing this unique type known as Maui Gold, famous for its extra sweet flavor and low acidity.
Maui Chocolate
There’s pretty much a reason for chocolate anytime of the year — this award-winning farm and facility on Maui, is a win-win for all involved.
Lei Wili Poepoe Māku‘e Born and raised on Maui, Leonani — Leo means “voice” and nani means “beauty” — also embodies the Hawaiian virtue of patience as she hand makes each one.
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PROMOTION
e Pono Kaua’i Planning Pono = ‘Ono For Everyone ‘Ono = delicious
Planning a trip to Kaua‘i means more than booking your flight, rental car and lodgings as early as possible for the best selection; you may have heard it helps to make reservations for at least a few restaurants, too. Yet it’s just as important to decide in advance which of the Garden Island’s wahi pana (special places) you’d like to visit and how you plan to see them. In some cases you’ll need to reserve an entry permit or book an excursion before you arrive. In every case, you’ll want to pack the right clothes and supplies — and a pono (loosely translated as “right”) attitude, too. Among many other definitions of pono when used as an adjective:
moral, fitting, just, virtuous, fair, beneficial, successful,in perfect order, accurate, correct. Used as a noun, it can signal prosperity, duty, excellence, and proper procedure.
picturesque walk from the beach via a boardwalk through kalo (taro) fields and a grove of trees. Wear appropriate shoes. Although you do not need a parking or entry permit to visit Tunnels, parking is very limited.
“Secret Falls” / Uluwehi Falls:
Plan Ahead To Enjoy These Island Favorites Kalalau Trail, Kē‘ē Beach
To access the Kalalau trailhead and breathtaking Kē‘ē Beach in Hā‘ena State Park, non-residents need to reserve a $5 entry permit and $10 parking permit with advanced reservations, or a $35 round-trip shuttle pass that includes entry, through gohaena.com. Parking is about a 10-minute
Viewing this 120-foot waterfall in the lush rainforest along the Wailua River requires kayaking for about 45 minutes and hiking an often muddy, slippery trail for another 30 minutes, including a river crossing. You can rent your own kayak, but several kayak companies offer guided tours lasting four and a half to five hours; it’s worth going with them to locate the trail more easily. Tours are now only allowed on weekdays, so plan ahead when booking.
Kaua‘i Made
Shop responsibly from these local Kaua‘i businesses who embody the definition of caring for tradition and the land. Kauaimade.net
12 Hearts from Kaua‘i From their familyowned farm, Tropical Flowers Express, to your door, send a sustainable piece of paradise the next time your loved one deserves a little attention — there are many different options to choose from.
Travel Kōnane
Kaua‘i Bling
Calling all gamers: unplug for a few and learn the ancient art of Kōnane or Hawaiian Checkers. The strategic skills required to be a successful Kōnane player were useful in both times of war and peace. hawaiiancheckers.com
Jewelry using the rare Ni‘ihau shells like those found at JJ ‘Ohana and many other unique offerings can be found on Kauai Made’s website. They are not only beautiful, but are made with love and aloha.
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State of Travel Hotel brands go from surviving to thriving. By Spud Hilton Before the pandemic, the biggest concern at Post Ranch Inn was whether the coast-clinging Highway 1 would stay open. Then Covid came and it didn’t matter if the road was open, because everything else was closed. The past 20 months have brought a perspective shift for everyone in hospitality, according to Mike Freed, a managing member of Passport Resorts, the company that operates Post Ranch Inn. But for some hospitality brands in California and Hawaii, what started as surviving, has slowly turned into thriving. “We went from the worst year in the history of the hotel to one of the best years in the history of the hotel,” said Freed. And while there are still plenty of challenges, a few hotel brands have managed to embrace the change — and the innovation that comes from necessity, from new ways to manage housekeeping to cutting-edge cleanair technology to rethinking the cultural component of places. Kaanapali Beach Hotel in Maui, for instance, used the pause to find new ways to share the local culture, according to John D. White, director of sales and marketing. “We needed to find ways to still allow the guests to experience all the elements of Hawaii culture. It was a challenge to see how we were
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going to do that and stay safe,” says White. “We wanted to have all of our cultural practitioners involved in the redesign, including making items for the new rooms.” And good timing didn’t hurt. The resort was already planning an $80 million renovation to start in April 2020, so when everything shut down, staff idn’t have to apologize for the noise or inconvenience, White said. “We didn’t have any guests to disrupt.” Although the renovation became part of the innovation, there’s now a two-tier rate structure with the traditional rooms at one price and the newly renovated at another, opening the door for more guests to access the setting, service and culture.
According to Freed, Post Ranch Inn pulled its biggest pandemic-era success out of thin air. Or really clean air, actually, especially in the resort’s iconic restaurant. “The single most important thing we did is we hired an indoor airquality expert who analyzed indoor air,” Freed says. “The indoor air was probably better than outdoors, which is something at Big Sur.” The resort installed personal HEPA air purifiers at every table and larger ones between each table, which means the air is completely exchanged six times per hour. Potential guests can now look online to see what the air quality in the
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restaurant is in real time. The resort also focused on non-toxic cleaning products, including an electrified salt-water solution made on the property. The attention to safety, says Freed, solved a variety of other possible issues. Workers felt safe, so staffing wasn’t an issue, and guests felt safe and spent more than if they’d dined in their rooms. With the Outrigger Hospitality Group, success for its Hawaiian resorts during the pandemic meant support from on top and closer ties to the community, according to Sean P. Dee, executive vice president and chief commercial officer. The focus has been on emphasizing “the relationship between caring for the host, the guest and the place.” While hiring continues to be a problem, he says, cooperation with the community has helped them overcome most pandemic-related issues. “We have been able to thrive — even in challenging times — thanks to the resilience of our incredible hosts,” says Dee. “This
s The Argonaut Hotel
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platform of caring for each other and the community provided a solid foundation during this pandemic.” A deeper connection to — and reliance on — the guests themselves is a recurring theme for some of the well-known hospitality companies, which has not necessarily always been the case for hotels that depend on inbound tourism. The shift, however, made a big difference at The Argonaut Hotel in San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf district, according to Stefan Mühle, the company’s area managing director. One of the ways the brand survived has been “additional service and amenity options for guests specifically addressing the needs of the leisure traveler,” says Mühle. “Guests and staff like have been creating a sense of ownership.” The result has been better guest reviews and higher ratings online,
Outrigger Reef, Waikiki
which in the end raises the property’s reputation, not just for having a great product, but for having bonded with guests through hard times. If nothing else, the pandemic has made hospitality companies take a hard look at “best practices” and evolve, according to Post Ranch Inn’s Freed and others. And some things, they say, will never go back to the pre-pandemic “normal.” Evolution for The Argonaut Hotel, says Mühle, includes a change in business mix, with less corporate travel, more hybrid meetings and more touchless options. “No-touch is the new high-touch.” The trick is balancing the evolution with the high standards and reputation, says White. “It’s finding out how to find the positive. We’re still the same Kaanapali Beach Hotel you know and love, while at the same time we've had to move forward.”
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Cicely Muldoon Superintendent of Yosemite National Park By Mimi Towle
IN OCTOBER 2020, the National Park Service selected Cicely Muldoon — a 35-year veteran of the NPS — as the new permanent superintendent of Yosemite National Park, the second woman ever to hold the position. Muldoon had been serving as the acting superintendent since January 2020.
Q &A
What did a 5-year-old Cicely do for fun, 10-year-old? I always loved being outside. One of the many amazing advantages to growing up in Marin was the ready access to so many incredible parks and open spaces. What a gift of public la nd! End less adventures were National Parks always right outService side the door. It marked me from Yosemite, CA t he st a r t: T he earliest experiences that stick with me still revolve around exploring the Marin Headlands, Point Reyes, and Yosemite.
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Who or what in your childhood introduced you to the outdoors, and what compelled you to step in and be a steward? Many things. I credit my five older siblings who let me tag along on many adventures in the Marin Headlands; growing up in an era when kids roamed a little more freely than they can today; a few family vacations that coincidentally passed through some of the spectacular national parks in the
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West. It all came together with an inspiring teacher, as things so often do, at Marin Catholic high school. Don Ritchie, an MC legend, was one of those gifted, generous, and lifechanging teachers who opened the world of environmental stewardship to generations of students through amazing outdoor adventures. Lifechanging without a doubt.
Top Things to Know: n Pack your patience: Millions of people
visit Yosemite from April through October. Yosemite Valley is the main destination for most visitors, but there are many places to go in the park. n Early birds avoid traffic: In the spring
and fall, arrive in the park before or after peak hours (before 9 am and after 5 pm) to avoid delays and traffic congestion.
education programs, the restoration of marine wilderness at Drakes Estero, and a complete rehabilitation of the historic lighthouse. Most challenging job in NPS and why? Great question. There are so many. The low-hanging fruit answer is jobs like Yosemite’s search and rescue teams that use helicopters and climbing gear to perform high-angle rescues on Yosemite’s big walls, or the two Tuolumne Meadows winter rangers, who are the sole guardians of the
high country for months when it is snowed in, continuing the decadesold snow surveys and patrolling largely on skis (you can get a rare glimpse into winter in the high country by following their blog on the park’s website). But challenges in the national parks come in many forms and go deeper than the scenery. Parks preserve the story of the nation, from Civil War to Civil Rights. I think those who serve in sites like Manzanar or Brown vs. Board of Education or (in the Bay Area) Port Chicago have among the
n Plan ahead: Reservations are not
n Protect Yosemite’s bears: Always
required to enter Yosemite, but it’s strongly recommended that you make them for lodging, camping and backpacking.
practice proper food storage and follow speed limits. n Staying connected: Cellular service is
n Keep wildlife wild: Do not approach
limited. Don’t be surprised if you can’t receive calls or texts in the park.
or feed animals. n Visit safely: Learn how to visit Yosemite n Drive responsibly: Observe posted
speed limits and use pullouts to take pictures and let other cars pass.
in a way that is fun, memorable and responsible. travelyosemite.com
GALYNA ANDRUSHKO/ADOBE STOCK
While you were at Point Reyes National Seashore, you were instrumental in a few improvements — which were you most happy about? Point Reyes is pure magic. It was such an honor to serve as superintendent in a place I’ve loved my whole life. I’m proud of many things that extraordinary park team accomplished while I was there — habitat and endangered species restoration projects, establishment of a UC Reserve to bolster research opportunities in the park, joining forces with Marin County Fire to better protect the park and adjacent communities from wildfire, visitor accessibility improvements, expanded youth and volunteer programs, strengthened connections with our tribal partners, a terrific partnership with the Point Reyes National Seashore Association in service of restoration projects and
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most challenging and most important jobs in National Park Service. What do you think are important qualities as a leader that have helped you earn your position? I’ve had some great role models in my 30-plus year career in the National Park Service. Public service is incredibly rewarding — but not for the faint of heart. The enduring qualities I think are most important boil down to treating everyone with respect, acting with integrity, exhibiting courage in defense of the land, never thinking you are the smartest one in the room, and always keeping a sense of humor. Let’s talk Yosemite — best results of the pandemic on the park, and the worst? Yosemite has grappled with chronic overcrowding and congestion for decades. The pandemic compelled us to test out a reservation system designed to protect public health by reducing the typical severe crowding. The best results: It worked. We were able to keep the park open. Covid, while present, was not overwhelming and for the first time in decades, there was no gridlock traffic in Yosemite Valley. We heard from so many that this was their best Yosemite experience in decades. For the first time in decades of crushing summer crowds, visitors got to experience granite not gridlock! The pandemic also served to remind people here in California, and across the country, of the solace of open spaces and the peace that can be found on our public lands. Visitation to public lands across the country has soared. A great antidote to a difficult time. The worst: Services were reduced dramatically — fewer campgrounds open, no shuttle
“
Public service is incredibly rewarding — but not for the faint of heart.
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buses, fewer staff o serve the public. We look forward to getting back to full strength. Top three things active visitors should experience? So hard to choose. Fundamentally, everyone should discover their own favorite places in Yosemite. But here’s a few: Don’t miss the high country in the summer, take any trailhead off f the Tioga Road and you can experience countless magical High Sierra places. Get lost (without getting lost) in Yosemite’s wilderness. The opportunity for solitude and solace is indescribable. Go see one of the three groves of Giant Sequoia trees in the park; the big trees are breathtaking. Consider hiking the Mist Trail or Yosemite Falls. Go for a snowshoe hike with a ranger at Badger Pass. Top three things people with limited mobility should experience? Same! Enjoy the serenity of Tuolumne Meadows, visit the spectacular Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias, and go to the base of
Yosemite Falls. Bring binoculars and witness climbers scaling El Capitan. Enjoy the unparalleled views from the easy one-mile loop of Cook’s Meadow to catch Half Dome, Yosemite Falls, and Sentinel Rock while standing in one place. Glacier Point and Tunnel View give iconic, stunning views of Yosemite Valley. Best place(s) to see the sunset? No such thing as a bad place to see the sunset in Yosemite. Glacier Point, Tunnel View and Olmsted Point are world-class vistas — amazing at sunrise, sunset, or any other time of day. Cook’s Meadow in Yosemite Valley for sunset over Half Dome is a personal favorite. Favorite place to meet people at the Ahwahnee? The Great Room, for sure. The Ahwahnee is, of course, one of the great lodges. The Great Room is rustic and grand at the same time. Visitors can enjoy a roaring fire in winter or find a cold drink and a great respite after a long summer’s day hike. Don’t miss it!
Final Notes n National Park Service rolled out
a new app last year to help with visits to Yosemite or any national park site in the country. It’s good. n Check out Yosemite on social
media to get the scoop on what’s happening currently. n Rec.gov is the place to go for camping reservations. n The park’s website —
nps.gov/yose — has a wealth of information. Look here, as these days there are limited services due to Covid.
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PROMOTION
A Taste of the Bay Area Did you leave your heart in San Francisco? With a quick click, you can take the City by the Bay home with you or give a piece of it as a commemorative gift. Here we’ve gathered fun products from our partners that will leave a lasting impression. 1 Ellie’s Essential Blends Deep Sleep Roller, $40 Whether you need extra support falling or staying asleep, this blend — handcreated by Marin-native, Ellie Dominguez — will have you drifting away in no time. elliesessentialblends.com
2 Ghirardelli Wooden Cable Car, $25 This combines two San Francisco staples: cable cars and Ghirardelli chocolates. A mighty, wooden car, this neat little package is loaded with chocolate squares in popular fl vors. ghirardelli.com
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4 Walt Disney Family Museum Fifinella Insignia Track Jacket, $70 Created by Roald Dahl and The Walt Disney Studios in California, this unisex jacket features Fifinella, who was used as an insignia by The Women’s Air Force Pilots. waltdisney.org/store
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6 Exploratorium Bike Pannier, $60 Haul your belongings in style with this eyecatching pannier. Roomy and sturdy, this waterproof bag is made from durable nylon fabric and upcycled Exploratorium vinyl street banners. exploratoriumstore.com
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DID YOU KNOW? Sushi can be sustainable, as in: • Salmon roe, or ikura, is a delight and more sustainable than farmed salmon. • And that rich, delicious black cod is a great replacement for unagi. • Or that farmed shellfish like scallops, clams, mussels and oysters are beyond sustainable — they are regenerative seafoods. That the Frisbee was invented in a San Luis Obispo home by two World War II fighter pilots who met in a German prison camp? If you happen upon a stinky, yellow blob of ambergris at the beach it could be worth a million dollars — it’s illegal to sell, but fun fact! There’s a restaurant that serves an award-winning Bloody Mary that you can enjoy while sitting in an Adirondack chair with bare feet trailing in the Big Sur River. What dock in Sausalito inspired Otis Redding’s ode to the area, “(Sittin’ On) the Dock of the Bay”?
That you can fly from Sausalito to Tahoe?
You would if you subscribed to Local Getaways!
LocalGetaways Local Getaways And follow us @localgetaways on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest!
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MATT KISIDAY
r Autocamp
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In this new era of travel,
getting away also means staying safe — away from crowds. Thus, well-designed spaces that mesh with the great outdoors speak loudly to us. These five seemingly remote yet very accessible boutique hideouts also have fascinating backstories you’ll love.
AUTOCAMP Joshua Tree
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seen in postmodern architecture decades ago. However, “we chose them as a nod to simple agrarian structures in the high desert,” says AutoCamp Design Director Will Spurzem, referencing salvaged examples displayed at the nearby Joshua Tree Outdoor Museum. Inside the main pavilion, mid-century modern interior décor selected by San Francisco designer Shannon Niehenke of Narrative Design Studio complements the
MAT KISIDAY
Luxury camping or "glamping" has become increasingly popular after the return of the great American road trip, and architecturally striking clubhouses for receiving guests often characterize the toniest campsites. In that spirit, AutoCamp, a California-based hybrid campsite-hotel company, just added a 20th century design icon to its clubhouse repertoire: the barrel-vaulted Quonset hut, composed of corrugated steel cladding bolted to curved steel ribs. That’s notable because AutoCamp was founded in 2013 with the vision of using tents and vintage Airstream trailers as rooms, but went upscale after partnering with Airstream. As a result, its next camps near the Russian River and Yosemite National Park have factory-customized trailers with walk-in showers, luxe mattresses, furnishings and cooking accessories; and their clubhouses echo celebrated buildings by architects such as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and Richard Neutra. Now, the latest 25-acre AutoCamp, just north of downtown Joshua Tree, has two clubhouse pavilions housed in Quonset huts, set on opposite ends of a long concrete plinth. The larger 1,350-square-foot hut is enclosed for reception areas, a gathering nook and a store, but its glass back wall lets in breathtaking views of the mountains. It opens to a back bar, outdoor lounges, a pool area and paths to 55 individual Airstreams. The smaller of the two, lightly screened with slatted wood, is for outdoor meetings. A 660-square-foot rectilinear structure for a bathroom, a pantry and an office sits between the huts. Prefabricated Quonset shelters first manufactured for the U.S. Navy in 1941 were easy to ship, assemble and disassemble in wartime terrain. They weren’t fancy. In postwar America they became ubiquitous, used as industrial and agrarian buildings and low-cost housing before falling out of favor. So, in a sense, AutoCamp’s lofty, galvanized steel and treated pine Quonset structures, finely detailed with wood by Texas architecture firm HKS, represent a Quonset comeback. Such prominent half-barrel forms were mostly
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INN AT THE PRESIDIO San Francisco
COURTESY OF THE PRESIDIO I NN (ROOM); MARIKO REED (AUTOCAMP)
MAT KISIDAY
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San Francisco’s 1776 Presidio, established by Spanish colonial garrisons on Ohlone land, is as old as the U.S. Declaration of Independence and its green expanses are twice the size of Central Park, yet many residents — let alone tourists — have barely set foot in it. That’s because this wooded enclave with wetlands and beaches abutting the Golden Gate Bridge was a U.S. Army base from 1847 until it was decommissioned in 1996. Its historic officers quarters and barracks were gradually converted to civilian use. Pershing Hall, a 1903 Georgian Revival-style dormitory for unmarried officers and now a U.S. National Landmark, was transformed a decade ago into the elegant, 26-room Inn at the Presidio. Now, the pet-friendly inn — which was the first neoclassical building in the Presidio and has hosted President Theodore Roosevelt — is quietly refined and seductively comfortable. Its original residents would have surely fought hard for one of its 17 new high-ceilinged suites and rooms with bespoke fireplaces, complimentary in-room breakfasts, wine, cheese and other amenities. Yet, perhaps the inn’s greatest gift is outdoors. Rocking chairs on the front porch invite you to sit and read without
high-quality, large and small Airstreams that include similar furniture. “Everything we picked needed to be durable,” Niehenke says. Windstorms and hikers of all kinds — the camp is open to kids, pets and families — who have been out in the desert admiring flowering cacti and Joshua trees, bring in sand and mud underfoot. So, whitewashed Baltic fir plywood lounge chairs, designed by Oakland-based Alexis Moran and arranged around AutoCamp’s signature mid-centurys style fireplace, are softened with cushions Inn at the Presidio made of easy-to-wipe waxed tent canvas. Campaign-style folding and stackable furniture can be easily moved around and can even take a beating. The concrete floors and unfinished slatted wood on the curved interior walls will also patina over time. Throughout, natural rust and amber colors are intended to let the interiors extend visually into the outdoors. “My brief was to make the space unique to this location,” Niehenke explains. Joshua Tree also has a strong artist community so, naturally, she picked local art that abstracts the landscape. The designer walks a fine line between style and comfortable informality. “AutoCamp is for people who want to explore all day, have a drink, make a meal outside,” she says. “It is not meant to hang out in all day, but we’ve designed it so you can.” autocamp.com About $200 per night, plus tax.
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Post Ranch Inn
POST RANCH INN Big Sur Two-and-a-half hours south of San Francisco, 40-room Post Ranch Inn along the Big Sur coast is probably one of the most original hotels in the world. Known for the setting atop craggy cliffs overlooking the choppy Pacific and amid redwoods laced with ocean fog, its mystic atmosphere puts it high on every travel list. However, when Post Ranch founder Mike Freed debuted it in 1992, the inn took off because of its modernist architecture, a series of quirky organic structures incorporated into a ridge overlooking the ocean, designed by architect Mickey Muennig.
s Post Ranch Inn
About $320 per night, plus tax.
KODIAK GREENWOOD
ever hearing the clang of cable cars; a back patio sports a firepit for sitting outside on foggy evenings. And the Presidio includes miles of hiking and biking trails across eucalyptus woods with peekaboo vistas and in situ works by artist Andy Goldsworthy. In the center of it all is a parade ground for picnics with friends, while north across the famous bridge lie untouched redwood forests in Marin County and beyond it the Wine Country. “The Inn is historic and it is a place to retreat,” says General Manager Terry Haney. However, this distinctive hideout is also a starting point from which to see San Francisco’s many architectural and cultural hits. For instance, within walking distance is the Bernard Maybeck-designed Palace of Fine Arts, a domed 1915 Beaux Arts folly where swans glide in a reflecting pond and brides regularly pose in front of its colossal neoclassical columns. Visit Golden Gate Park’s 2005 de Young Museum designed by Herzog and De Meuron and the 2008 California Academy of Sciences building designed by Renzo Piano, Snohetta’s modern 2016 addition to Mario Botta’s 1995 Postmodern SFMOMA, the verdant elevated 2018 Salesforce Park by Pelli Clark Pelli Architects and PWP Landscape Architecture, and Olafur Eliasson’s 2019 Seeing Spheres sculpture at the shiny new Chase stadium. All are just a short rideshare away. presidiolodging.com.
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LEFT PAGE: KODIAK GREENWOOD (TREEHOUSE, POST RANCH INN)
KODIAK GREENWOOD
Muennig, a self-described “gnome-like” Missouri native who studied under pioneer iconoclastic architect Bruce Goff, was drawn in 1971 to Big Sur’s famous Esalen Institute, a ’60s hippie retreat, and stayed on. He recently passed away at age 86, but his legacy of unconventional redwood, steel and glass shelters — undoubtedly influenced by Goff's contemporary Frank Lloyd Wright's nature inspired work — remains. Muennig’s eco-friendly hobbit-like buildings, all without any right-angled walls, seem to grow out of the ground that they stand on. Now a defining feature of the region, most of them are at Post Ranch in the form of tree houses raised on 9-foot high stilts, sunken earth houses covered with roofs of sod, lichen and wildflowers, and wavy redwood and corten steel dwellings. Ten new sculptural structures — inspired by the originals — including two circular Pacific Suites with ocean views, Peak Houses that cantilever vertiginously toward the mountains, and Cliff ouses of curved wood were added in 2008. The Pacific Suites have faces exposed to the ocean and the sky but angled so neighboring guests can’t look in. Rooms that face the mountains also pay homage to the surroundings with a sophisticated rusticity fashioned with weathered redwood, stone and sheet metal. Sierra Mar, a restaurant in a wedge-shaped building with sheer glass walls overlooking the Pacific, is where breakfast is served. The top-notch restaurant can also oblige you with a packed lunch for cruising down the Pacific Coast Highway in a Lexus hybrid convertible that guests can reserve for free. Nearby attractions include thermal springs, hippie camps, spiritual retreats, beaches, State parks and the towns of Carmel and Monterey. Muennig’s desire to reconnect to the earth seems to be the prevailing gestalt. Two cliff-top basking pools and a larger lap pool are prime spots to take in a pageant of sealions, whales and creatures that dip, soar and sail by. During a hike around the hotel grounds, endangered species such as the Smith's Blue Butterfly might appear. The small spa with four treatment rooms that offer a smorgasbord of unique treatments, including sessions with a shaman, can take its show into individual rooms or balconies. All you have to do is ask. Free yoga and meditation sessions and stargazing using the inn’s giant telescope are other ways to recharge. In lieu of mood-shattering TVs, rooms have Wi-Fi, a Sonos digital music system and a complimentary (non-alcoholic) minibar. Throughout, ubiquitous wood-burning fireplaces, radiant floor heating, outdoor showers or hot tubs, private decks, and organic bath products and linens all echo Muennig’s nature-forward mantra in this luxurious one-of-a-kind resort. postranchinn.com About $1,650 per night, plus tax.
FARMHOUSE INN Forestville Catherine Bartolomei is a fifth-generation Russian River Valley vineyard owner. Her great-grandparents settled on their 80-acre Forestville ranch in 1907, planted zinfandel grapes in 1911, and nearly a century ago built a large family house on the land where Bartolomei still lives today. Two decades ago, she and her brother Joe wondered how they could host guests who wanted an insider Wine Country experience. Lacking the kind of buildings they dreamed of, they envisioned a different kind of farm and found just the place nearby — a B&B on a former farm close to Healdsburg, with romantic peak-roofed Victorian-
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Farmhouse Inn
era clapboard buildings. The 1873 farmhouse and other structures were restored and in 2001 became the basis of their new venture, the Farmhouse Inn. The first guests were accommodated in individual cottages with fragrant rose gardens. The old farmhouse, reserved for serving breakfasts, evolved into a farm-totable Michelin-star restaurant where their produce and Lost + Found pinot noir wines were served. Spurred by their virtually instant success — people liked being hosted by real vintners and staying at an authentic farm in the Wine Country — the Bartolomei siblings embarked on an ambitious expansion and upped their game. In 2014, working with San Francisco-based resort designers SB Architects, they added barn-like two-story buildings in back for nine suites and a long, airy spa structure on one side of the pool. With wide shutters,
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Farmhouse Inn
HOTEL SAN LUIS OBISPO San Luis Obispo Long considered a sleepy road stop halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, the charming town of San Luis Obispo at the foot of the Santa Lucia Range in Central California — close to Hearst Castle — is slightly older than both those cities and is a destination unto itself. And, it appears that hoteliers Circe Sher and Paolo Petrone of Piazza Hospitality, whose Hotel Healdsburg helped to ignite a cultural renaissance in Healdsburg, thought so too. “We really wanted a modern, beach-meets-ranch style hotel with a Southern California look there,” Sher said. “San Luis Obispo’s downtown is a walkable, lively place. We wanted to introduce people to that and become a hub for the community.” Their three-story, 78-room Hotel SLO, a block away from the 1772 Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa that gives the town its name, opened shortly before the pandemic shut it down. When it rebooted, its indoor/outdoor public spaces — two street-access restaurants with generous outdoor rooms, a dining courtyard and pool sheltered within the U-shaped building, and a rooftop bar — intended to capitalize on the area’s warm weather, were exactly where people felt safe. Now, even on a Monday night, the High Bar with grandstand views of the Nine Sisters — hikeable volcanic peaks that ring the town — gets filled with hotel guests, young professionals who work in tech, design and the area’s growing wine industry, as well as students and faculty from Cal Poly State University on the edge of town. It’s a kind of rooftop piazza with a youthful vibe. Architect Chris Harrelson, of the San Francisco firm Gensler, designed the airy, modern, stucco-steel-andglass building with rooms that have individual terraces or balconies. Interior designer Danielle Velasco who had worked with Sher on another Healdsburg hotel, picked warm wood features and mid-century modern furnishings for the lobby, outfitted the modest spa, decorated Ox + Anchor and Piadina restaurants, and helped curate the robust art collection showcased in rooms and on every floor. A round living wall by David Brenner, who also designed the one at SFMOMA, is incorporated into the signage. The fresh white guest rooms, with contemporary Scandinavian-style furnishings and super graphics painted above the headboards, have pops of color in pillow covers as well as commissioned art prints depicting present-day SLO landmarks and some from a now-disappeared Chinatown whose inhabitants built the town’s 19th century railway. As a subtle nod to that
COURTESY OF FARMHOUSE INN
tall ceilings, Dutch doors and equestrian murals, the 3,000-square-foot, stable-inspired spa has outdoor spaces off f each treatment room where guests can shower or lounge following their treatments. In keeping with the times, the spa is now called the Wellness Barn, for a range of mind and body treatments that use unguents made from vibrant homegrown ingredients. In fact, the intimate gardens on the 10-acre property with fountains, picturesque vineyards nearby and poolside lounging are all conducive to a feeling of well being. That’s why, on some mornings, Joe Bartolomei leads hikers through the surrounding woods across hidden trails, while others learn about farm yoga. The new guest-suite barns, connected by a bridge, replicate the look and feel of the old but have vertical board and batten exteriors, with modern concrete floors and stateof-the-art amenities. The old and new exteriors are all a buttery yellow, except for the spa that is painted white. The late Healdsburg designer Myra Hoefer also chose white for the interiors, and added signature slip-cased furnishings and leather and wood accents that feel pastoral yet chic. Hoefer’s firm, now helmed by her daughters, continues to refine the spaces at the Farmhouse Inn that all have either woodburning or two-sided gas fireplaces, jetted or soaking tubs, saunas or steam showers, and private decks or courtyards. The award-winning 25-room Farmhouse Inn has now reached the coveted Four-Diamond luxury boutique hotel status. Definitely expect aromatherapy toiletries, luxury robes, sensuous linens, flat-panel televisions, mini-bars and yes, eight-bottle wine refrigerators. After all, this unique enclave is in Sonoma where you will surely encounter musthave wines. farmhouseinn.com About $760 per night plus tax.
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@ 2020 GENSLER/RYAN GOBUTY; COURTESY OF HOTEL SLO
COURTESY OF FARMHOUSE INN
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nearly-forgotten past, “the façade’s terracotta tiles are a Chinese material,” Sher adds. There are other histories to learn, and Phoenix Books, a wonderful used book store nearby, has a rich eclectic trove of books that remind you that laidback SLO is a counterculture college town of roughly 50,000 people with diverse creative interests. The first motel, the Frisbee, and the colorful kooky Madonna Inn were all born there. Embracing the SLO life, many residents have become full-time cafe musicians, vegan shamans, and some are surfing instructors at nearby Pismo Beach. Food is a big SLO feature, so interspersed between clothing and home decor boutiques along tree-lined Higuera Street are choice eateries, brewpubs and bakeries tucked into 19th century storefronts. A picturesque creek also runs through town and you can follow it as it slips in and out of public parks, under footbridges, beside museums and into secret restaurant gardens. On Thursday evenings a farmers market takes over the center of town, and that’s where the hotel’s executive chef Ryan Francher finds organic ingredients and local cheeses. “It is heaven for chefs,” Calabria native Petrone says with a satisfied sigh. hotel-slo.com About $300 per night, plus tax.
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WHY
Big Sur IS A Big Deal
The ultimate guide to one of the most beautiful places on the planet. By Mark C. Anderson
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r Interior of COAST Big Sur
HENRY MILLER CALLED BIG SUR the place where he first learned to say, “Amen.” Richard Brautigan called it a great destination to let “your soul have some room to get outside its marrow.” Land policy wonks and other admirers have called it: “The longest and most scenic stretch of undeveloped coastline in the contiguous United States,” a “national treasure,” and “one of the most beautiful coastlines anywhere in the world ... mythic in reputation.” I call it the one part of the world that can comfort me when I’ve traveled to a breathtakingly beautiful place and I can’t imagine leaving. At those moments, I tell myself I can find the strength to depart because I’ll have Big Sur to return to. I once pitched the late Anthony Bourdain on it as a destination for his show Parts Unknown. I couldn’t resist thinking the 90-mile stretch of unincorporated — and incomparable — coastline and its unique alchemy of redwoods, marine terraces, dramatic beaches, art, literary pedigree, compelling history, and atmospheric food and drink would be a fantastic find for his storytelling soul.
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BIG SUR PL ACES TO V ISIT
History
ANDREW MOLERA STATE PARK
The South Coast was first inhabited by three tribes of natives, the Ohlone, Esselen and Salinan, dating as far back as 3500 BC. Spanish explorers sailed past in the 1500s, but colonization attempts didn’t happen until 200 years later and those were ultimately choked off because of the difficulty of the terrain. And though Mexican land grants including big swaths of Big Sur were bestowed in the 1830s, settlement didn’t really occur until decades later. The names and descendants of those hardy souls dot the landscape to this day, from Pfeiffer Ridge to Post Summit to Partington Cove.
BIG SUR BAKERY
This spot has been a heart home for locals and visitors alike for two decades for its award-winning breads, pastries and more. Smart hot sauce, fermentation and pizza programs elevate the sense of place with vibrant seasonal fare in a homey and welcoming setting. bigsurbakery.com
BIG SUR TAPHOUSE
At times, thanks to crowds and steep price points, Big Sur can be a challenge. This place provides an antidote, which is why it is a locals’ go-to. Anticipate limited or no wait time, simple and convenient counter service, a good craft beer selection and rock solid values on daily specials. bigsurtaphouse.com COAST BIG SUR
The art and the setting are outright arresting, but don’t sleep on the spectacular pizzas, preserved goods, adventurous soft-serve ice creams and more from the mind of James Beard Award-winning author and chef Nick Balla. coastbigsur.com
BIG SUR
One of the parks to prioritize on the South Coast. It can feel like several parks in one, given its river section, expansive beaches, arboreal stretches, and dramatic elevation gains. Local Getaways’ favorite piece of that puzzle is the Bluffs Trail that connects with the beach and allows for a loop back if you time the tides right. parks.ca.gov
s Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn
Redwood lumbering sustained the early pioneers. The Old Coast Trail allowed wagon access and steam ships carried out weighty goods. The Point Sur Lighthouse Station (above) started operating in 1889. The real game changer came in 1937, when Highway 1 was completed after 18 years of build-out. Electricity came later, in the 1950s, though it doesn’t extend to a number of Big Sur’s nooks and crannies.
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and art performance schedule, because it’s an incredible place to take in a show. henrymiller.org NEPENTHE
There might not be a Big Sur without Nepenthe, which sounds like hyperbole, but that’s a fact: When all the fire and mudslides and mayhem hit the South Coast, its definitive restaurant with the amazing wine list and amazing-er views becomes a community support system distributing food and information. nepenthe.com PFEIFFER BEACH
Times to Visit ESALEN INSTITUTE Big Sur is an intensely seasonal place, with huge surges of visitors in the summer and on weekends year-round, so any opportunity to arrive in nonpeak times would be good to pounce upon. Big Sur Food & Wine furnishes a delicious excuse to make a pilgrimage, and happens the first weekend of November. The Big Sur International Marathon is an even bigger draw, and happens in the spring. Lodging is limited and can be cost prohibitive, so planning to stay on the Monterey Peninsula is helpful to consider. Camping spots fill up quickly, too, so planning further in advance than normal is advisable.
The world’s leading hub for exploring human potential doesn’t require giants of thought and seminars to be enjoyed — the organic food, on-the-cusp-of-thePacific mineral pools and massages work just right too. Getting in can be almost as complicated as the human struggle, though, so study up on their website to understand visiting rules. esalen.org
Few landscapes draw so many photographers. This one does, thanks to rock structures that rival any on Earth. It also invites walks that can stretch for hours and miles south, all the way to Andrew Molera State Park. fs.usda.gov
FERNWOOD BAR AND GRILL
The simple fact that cellphone signals are strongest here is worth noting. There’s also much more to check out: the albino redwood, the timeless saloon, the hiking trails, the riverside campsites and forested cabins. Fernwood is also one of the best places to catch live music on the South Coast. fernwoodbigsur.com HENRY MILLER LIBRARY
The iconic venue does have a prodigious selection of carefully curated books and a funky-fresh art-laden setting with grassy lawns begging for a picnic. But the pro tip here is to peek into its music
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PFEIFFER BIG SUR STATE PARK
If you have time for one park, the granddaddy of them all has to be it. Some of the coolest campgrounds in the state call this home, but it also works wonders for a day trip, particularly a wander up the river to the water hole known by locals simply as The Gorge. parks.ca.gov
PL ACES TO STAY
Big Sur Checklist
DEETJEN'S BIG SUR INN
o Wear layers — weather varies.
Inseparable from Big Sur and the redwoods that surround it, Deetjen’s represents a reborn legend famous for its historic and creaky cabins, unforgettable in-room journals, gorgeous gardens and, yes, the eggs Benedict. deetjens.com
o Anticipate traffic in high season, especially at Bixby Bridge.
PFEIFFER FALLS
JULIA PFEIFFER BURNS STATE PARK / MCWAY FALLS
The iconic photos of the falls landing on the beach of McWay Cove pretty much sums up Big Sur for many. Its popularity makes it a good site to visit at off-peak hours. mcwayfalls.com s Nepenthe
POST RANCH INN
Perched on a cliff ,200 feet above the sea, Post Ranch Inn can make a strong case for Big Sur’s best views as well as its most eye-catching architecture. Like a summer camp for jet-setters, Post Ranch Inn offers a full menu of nature-themed and wellness activities. postranchinn.com
BIG SUR
One of Big Sur’s landmark hikes was offlimits after multiple wildfires, landslides and floods — for more than a decade. Now it’s back in all its glory, with broad plank walkways and a trail that continues to a summit called Valley View. redwoodhikes.com
o Expect very limited cell service.
RIVER INN
One rite of passage for passersby is the chance to sip an award-winning Bloody Mary while sitting in an Adirondack chair with bare feet trailing in the Big Sur River. Summertime brings live music and al fresco barbecue specials to the backyard lawns too. bigsurriverinn.com VENTANA BIG SUR
This luxury resort enjoys Japanese baths, world-class food and jaw-dropping views from atop the Pacific. It also gives guests updated lodging that rivals any in the area. The on-site Big Sur Smokehouse does mean BBQ too. ventanabigsur.com
o Budget for park entry fees. o Double check for any Covid or weather-related park closures. o Know parking can be a challenge at bucket list spots like Julia Pfeiffer Falls. o Confirm trail and park access for dogs.
TREEBONES RESORT
The farthest south of these recommendations deserves love for its family-run collection of yurts, sweeping views, organic gardens and food program. Wild Coast Restaurant & The Sushi Bar have gotten popular enough that a call ahead for reservations is a must. treebonesresort.com
For more info, scan here
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Thar
SHE BLOWS
These ancient sea creatures capture our hearts and minds — for a good reason.
WHALES ARE AMONG THE LARGEST and oldest animals on Earth, with a spectacular tale of evolution. They began as land-dwelling, hoofed mammals more than 50 million years ago, and then returned to the sea as warmblooded ocean dwellers. Like humans, whales are sentient creatures who nurse their offspring, form bonds and friendships, sing and play. They come in all shapes and sizes, from the snowy white arctic belugas and tusked narwhals — which inspired mythical tales of unicorns — to the great orca hunters, singing humpbacks and 100-foot blue whale leviathans, the largest creatures on Earth. An 1820 attack on a New England whaling ship by a sperm whale, which can weigh up to 45 tons and grow to 52 feet long, inspired Henry Melville to write "Moby Dick." Fortunately, the waters off alifornia and Hawaii today serve as a
sanctuary rather than a slaughterhouse for these magnificent creatures, typically spotted during their migrations to and from warmer waters. Gray whales swimming from Alaska to Mexico pass San Francisco and Monterey Bay and then again as they head north. Humpback whales traditionally appear in the nutrient-rich Monterey Bay (and occasionally even inside San Francisco Bay) mid-April through December, before heading south to Mexico. With changing weather patterns and an increase in population, some humpback whales have even decided to live in Monterey Bay year-round. Killer whales, or orcas, can be seen throughout the year, too, but they’re most common March through June. They add a touch of murderous suspense to whale-watching tours as they prey upon gray whales and their young migrating northward.
GUDKOVANDREY / ADOBE STOCK
By Jeanne Cooper
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The Bizarre Blubber Business
BY JEANNE COOPER
During the heyday of Pacific whaling in the mid-19th century, towns like Lahaina and Monterey were international hubs of commerce and created some curious commodities.
head of sperm whales that holds up to 500 or more gallons of the liquid. At room temperature, it turns into a wax that was used for candles and face creams.
• Whalebone, the nickname for baleen,
• Whale oil, made from rendered blubber,
• After kerosene and petroleum gutted the market for whale oil, the surplus became a primary ingredient in margarine, invented in 1869. European margarine manufacturers such as Unilever relied on whale oil through World War II — Adolf Hitler even sent a secret pre-war mission to Antarctica to scout potential whaling fields in case of supply-chain disruption.
the protective waxy coating sperm whales produce when they try to digest an irritant like a giant squid’s beak and then expel in vomit or feces found floating in the ocean or washed up on the beach. Although illegal in the United States, it remains highly valued by some foreign perfume makers — to the tune of nearly $20,000 per pound — for its ability to enhance scents.
served as fuel for oil lamps. San Francisco’s first street lamps, installed in 1853, relied on both whale oil and kerosene, according to the Museum of the City of San Francisco.
• The cleanest-burning whale oil,
spermaceti, comes from an organ in the
served as corset and collar stays, umbrella ribs, buggy whips and toy parts.
• Weirdest whale product? Ambergris,
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IT’S TIME TO WITNESS ONE OF THE GREATEST wildlife migrations on the planet, and it’s happening just west of you. Every March and April herds of gray whales can be spotted from shore as they journey northward along the coast, completing the last leg of their 14,000mile annual round-trip. The proud parents are heading back to their Arctic feeding grounds after giving birth to their calves in the warm waters of Baja California (yes, even baby whales are adorable). It’s the kind of spiritually uplifting getaway that makes you realize that, as Northern Californians, we’re very lucky to be living in one of the most incredibly diverse places on earth. Here are our favorite places along the Northern California coast to spot gray whales — north to south, from Mendocino to Monterey Bay — as well as the best whale watching boat tours and places to stay during your whale watching getaway. And don’t forget to bring binoculars.
The Mendocino Coast Whale Watching If there was ever a reason to spend a few days on the Mendocino coast, it’s to watch the whales. Because of the way the Mendocino coastline is formed, you can often spot whales right from the shore, while pods of them often feed and rest their young in Mendocino’s sheltered coves (especially near the Point Cabrillo lighthouse). To book a whale watching boat tour, give Captain Tim of All Aboard
Common California Whales BY JEANNE COOPER
There’s more than one kind of cetacean to spot on a whale-watching tour in Northern California. Here are fi e to observe swimming in or near Monterey Bay at various (approximate) times of the year, according to Nancy Black, founder of Monterey Bay Whale Watch.
BY MATTHEW POOLE AND JEANNE COOPER
Adventures a call at 707.964.1881. He also runs sport fishing charters from his berth in Fort Bragg’s Noyo Harbor.
Bodega Bay Whale Watching The whale watching opportunities at Bodega Bay are superb, particularly from the bluffs of Bodega Head, the small peninsula that shelters Bodega Bay. There are two hiking trails that follow the ocean, allowing you to combine both a seaside stroll and whale watching outing. And on weekends through Mother’s Day (May 8), you’ll find volunteer docents from the Stewards of the Coast and Redwoods who’ll share their knowledge of the gray whale migration with visitors. Donations of $5 to $10 per person are appreciated, as they help the stewards continue to provide free docent-led environmental education programs for school groups. To get to Bodega Head from downtown Bodega Bay, turn west on Eastshore Road, then turn right at the stop sign onto Bay Flat Road and follow it a few miles to the very end. Through April several of Bodega Bay's fishing charters offer whale-watching trips, such as Bodega Bay Sportfishing.
Point Reyes National Seashore Whale Watching This whale watching outing makes for a wonderful day trip from the Bay Area. The lighthouse at Point Reyes National
Humpback whales: APRIL - DEC
Killer whales: MARCH - JUNE
Named for their distinctive back, these whales breed and bear young in Mexico in winter, then migrate to Central and Northern California in summer and fall to feed on sardines, anchovies and krill. Now numbering about 800, after being hunted nearly to extinction, they can reach 60 feet long and weigh up to 40 tons. Black considers them the most curious, often approaching her tours to get a closer look.
Also known as orcas, these are actually the largest member of the dolphin family, weighing up to 11 tons and spanning 32 feet. Pods of eight to 12 will attack gray whales, seals, sea lions and elephant seals in Monterey Bay.
WILLTU/ADOBE STOCK (HUMPBACK); CHRISTIAN MUSAT/ADOBE STOCK (KILLER WHALE)
NorCal Whale Watching
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BENE07/ADOBE STOCK ROBERTHARDING/ADOBE STOCK (GRAY) DARIN SAKDATORN/ADOBE STOCK (BLUE); OANA G./ADOBE STOCK (MINKE)
WILLTU/ADOBE STOCK (HUMPBACK); CHRISTIAN MUSAT/ADOBE STOCK (KILLER WHALE)
Gray whales: SEPT - APRIL
Blue whales: MAY - OCT
Minke whales: JULY - OCT
Some 25,000 gray whales migrate along the coast between Alaska and Baja California twice a year. Traveling closest to shore in spring to protect their babies from orcas, they may journey 10,000 miles or more round trip. Gray whales can grow up to 49 feet long and weigh up to 90,000 pounds.
The largest of all creatures ever to roam our planet, the endangered blue whale feeds only on krill, coming into Monterey Bay from June through October when it’s most abundant, according to Black. The estimated 2,200 whales in the Northern Pacific population typically grow 80 to 100 feet long, weighing up to 50 tons and able to blow a spout 30 feet in the air.
The smallest of whales with baleen (keratin plates) in their mouths rather than teeth, the minke population in the Pacific Northwest is estimated at 370 yearround. They weigh up to 10 tons and grow up to 35 feet, with a relatively large dorsal fin that makes them easy to spot, Black says, most frequently in summer and fall.
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Seashore is the top spot on the California coast to see gray whales as they make their northward migrations. But it’s no secret either, so if you plan to drive out to the lighthouse, arrive early as parking is limited and the winter bus shuttle has been discontinued due to Covid. If possible, come on a weekday and dress warmly — it’s often quite cold and windy out there.
San Francisco Bay Whale Watching
A leisurely 45-minute drive from San Francisco, Half Moon Bay is one of our favorite coastal towns on the California coast. With its pristine beaches, mild climate, and easy access via Highway 1, or from the Peninsula and East Bay via Highway 92, it’s the perfect solution for anyone in need of a peaceful weekend getaway — especially when combined with a whale watching cruise. Contact Captain Duane Winter (aka Capt. Dew) of Mooch Better Fishing at 650.888.5125 for a charter tour from Johnson Pier in Pillar Point Harbor.
Monterey Bay Whale Watching The placid waters of Monterey Bay offer fantastic whale watching opportunities (including while lounging in a hotel’s rooftop hot tub), but you’ll have much better odds of spotting them during a whale watching cruise with Monterey Bay Whale Watch, owned by marine biologist Nancy Black. She’s been observing whales, dolphins and other marine mammals in the bay for more than 30 years. Combine one of her company’s daily 3- and 4-hour tours with a trip to the famous Monterey Bay Aquarium. To try your chances at seeing a cetacean from a hot tub, book a room and a spa treatment at Monterey Plaza Hotel and Spa, which offers two rooftop whirlpools.
WIRESTOCK/ADOBE STOCK
Our secret spot to watch whales that’s very close to San Francisco: Point Bonita Lighthouse on the southwest tip of the Marin Headlands. While the lighthouse itself is currently closed to tours, the views of the entrance to the San Francisco Bay are sensational at this prime location for spotting gray whales as they round the point. But if you really want to get a good look at these gentle giants, sign up for a whale watching cruise with Oceanic Society Expeditions, which runs 7.5-hour weekend tours, April through November. Tours depart from the San Francisco Yacht Harbor near Marina Green Park, pass Point Bonita and then head 27 miles offshore to the Farallon Islands. Expert naturalists are on board to tell you everything you’ve ever wanted to know about whales, including that blue whales as well as some gray whales live near the Farallones year round.
Half Moon Bay Whale Watching
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ROB/ADOBE STOCK
WIRESTOCK/ADOBE STOCK
Whales in Hawaii
BY JEANNE COOPER AND ANN WYCOFF
Whales have held an honored role in Hawaiian culture since the first Polynesian voyagers arrived on these islands more than a thousand years ago. The appearance of koholā (koh-hoh-LAH), or humpback whale, marks the second phase of the ancient Hawaiian creation story known as the Kumulipo. The ivory teeth of palaoa (puh-LAU-uh), the rarely seen sperm whales, that drifted ashore became highly prized as pendants on necklaces of braided human hair. Thousands of humpback whales wintered in the islands, mating, giving birth, nursing and frolicking before returning to Alaska to feed before the first two whaling ships arrived from New England in 1819. The whale-rich shallow waters off Maui’s leeward side quickly made Lahaina the epicenter of the Pacific whaling trade, which turned whale blubber into lantern oil, whalebone into corsets and umbrellas, and ambergris into perfume, among other profitable uses. By the mid-19th century, kerosene and petroleum had started to replace whale oil as a source of fuel, but hunting or otherwise harming whales in Hawaii remained legal until the passage of the Endangered Species Act in 1973. To protect their greatly depleted populations even further, Congress created the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary in 1992, five separate areas covering nearly 1,400 miles of shallow waters and coral reefs. Today, an estimated 12,000 humpbacks travel from Alaska to Hawaii each year, making these waters a humpback haven from roughly November through March and offering travelers and residents a chance to encounter these incredible giants. Coming into close contact with a whale like the humpback is a privilege and an enormously thrilling experience. The humpback, some 60 feet long, loves to breach, hurling its massive 40-ton body out of the sea. They also spy hop, popping straight up to view their surroundings, and slap their flukes and pectoral fins along the water’s surface, all incredible sights to behold. The male
humpback is also revered for its incredible litany of songs, believed to be a form of communication, especially during mating; ocean swimmers who dip their heads underwater may find themselves hearing their otherworldly tunes. While the humpbacks are migratory, the elusive sperm whales and some 23 other marine mammals classified as toothed or baleen whales (some are actually dolphins) are known to frequent Hawaiian waters. They prefer water many fathoms deep, so you’ll need to take a longer cruise and have a bit of luck to spot those, with the westernmost point of Hawaii Island closest to such habitat. We can protect and respect all of these magnificent creatures by opting in for credible whale watching outfitters and supporting organizations that champion their preservation.
For more info, scan here
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Trail Blazers
PROMOTION
California
Trail Blazers Is it the soil, the air, the vibe?
What is it about California that
makes it arguably the most famous of the 50 states and fifth largest economy in the world? According to the Real California Cheese campaign, it’s the sunshine. Could be, but there is something pretty darn special about the 31st state. Living in Calif ornia seems to encourage innovation, inspire visionaries to actualize their visions and wow the world. From the early days when the miners of gold needed clothes tough enough to endure extreme weather and rugged terrain, a businessman named Levi Strauss solved this problem and his red-tabbed denim became recognized internationally as a symbol of quality. A f antasy-minded youth named Walt not only imagined the happiest place on earth, but f ostered the Imagineering division of his eponymous company, which is now responsible f or the creation, design, and construction of Disney theme parks and attractions worldwide. Speaking of imagination — would anyone have thought we could hold the whole world in our hands? Steve Jobs did. And yep, Calif ornia was his home. Let us introduce you to some f ellow dynamic Californians (one now living on Kauai).
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PROMOTION
Qs Where did your passion originate? Our passion for farming is in our DNA and also comes from seeing the previous generations give their heart and soul to our land and business. It inspires us to do the same for our children and future generations.
Sangiacomo Family Wines Steve, Mia and Mike at the Helm As third-generation farmers in Sonoma with roots tracing back to 1927, the Sangiacomo family has a deep appreciation for the value of sustainability and stewardship. For the past fif y-three years, they have remained dedicated to their farming heritage by growing premium wine grapes across 1,600 acres of certified su tainable estate vineyards in the cool-climate regions of Northern California. At the helm of the family business are three siblings working together — Mike, Mia and Steve. They are broadly recognized as leading grapegrowers in the region; and now they are writing a new chapter in their family legacy; making sustainably-farmed estate wines for their own boutique label, Sangiacomo Family Wines. Inspired by their knowledge and passion for the region, the Sangiacomo family works with acclaimed winemaker James MacPhail to produce limited quantities of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Sourcing fruit from the most compelling blocks throughout their Sonoma County and Napa Valley vineyards, the family is devoted to making wines that express the unique character of the land their family has called home for generations. Sangiacomo Family Wines • Mike, Mia and Steve Sangiacomo • 707.934.8445 hello@sangiacomowines.com • sangiacomowines.com
How did you overcome challenges? Maintaining a positive attitude! Being a farmer, Mother Nature is often in control. As with life, the elements are unpredictable; when the waves crest high and low, we work together to stay on top and lean on each other f or support and strength. Preparation and anticipation often helps mitigate any d ifficulties we encounter. What are your thoughts on growing and expanding your business? Being a family business for almost 100 years, our lens looks to enrich our land, grapes and community in every way possible. The opportunity and excitement ahead is tremendous! Welcoming visitors to our estate and opening our doors, it’s exciting to introduce new people to our 100-yearold history in Sonoma.
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PROMOTION
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Qs What sets you apart from your competitors?
My passion for meeting new people and helping them pursue their dreams of homeownership is what motivates me every time I work with a client. Having traveled the world extensively, I've found that I'm able to relate to my clients' needs and aspirations regardless of their background or where they come from. Furthermore, I've been a licensed agent since 1987, and have a background in marketing and design. This experience has equipped me with a unique skillset, providing the means to ensure that every transaction is a smooth one, regardless of the state of the market or whether my client is looking to buy or sell. Why did you decide to pursue this line of work?
••
ENGEL&VOL Michele Affronte
Real Estate Professional
Michele Affronte, a top producer and global real estate advisor represented by Engel & Volkers Marin County, is selling a lifestyle at the Sausalito waterfront. She entered real estate in 1987 and relocated to the docks of Sausalito in 1991 where she immediately fell in love with everything that life on the water had to offer. Hoping to share her passion for this unique lifestyle with the world, she has specialized in the sale of waterfront homes ever since. This niche, paired with her client-centric approach to selling, has consistently landed Michele among the top producing agents in Marin County year to year. To learn more about her process and offerings, contact Michele! Michele Affronte • 415.798.0236 • michele.affronte@evrealestate.com micheleaffronte.evrealestate.com • DRE# 00959293
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Simply put, I decided to become a Realtor in 1987 because I've always loved people and homes. My relationships with my clients have always been very important to me. I also love the sense of leadership and ability to entertain that is necessary to be successful in real estate, and nothing is as satisfying as working hard with someone to help make their dreams come true. Where did your passion originate?
I moved to the docks of the Sausalito waterfront in 1991 and was selling waterfront property in Manhattan Beach prior to that. As soon as I saw Sausalito's floating homes, I purchased my own and immediately decided that I wanted to teach others about this unique and wonderful lifestyle. Within 6 months I sold my first floating home and now almost exclusively specialize in the sale of waterfront homes. Most of my past clients are now my neighbors and friends - it's truly a passion that I live every day.
ALAN BLAUSTEIN
PROMOTION
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PROMOTION
Qs Why did you decide to pursue this line of work?
Real estate brings together my entrepreneurial spirit, outgoing personality and passion for Kauai. Sharing Kauai w ith others and specializing in helping buyers from the mainland find the perfect property on our beautiful island is a dream come true.
Nancy Jane Williams
Real Estate Professional
Nancy Williams first visited Kauai in 1992 and from that very moment she knew that was where she wanted to live. Now a resident, living on Kauai is her dream come true. As a real estate professional, she helps her clients navigate the process of buying or selling a home on Kauai - often from afar. She loves sharing her passion, insights and knowledge of this special island. And as an experienced business owner, she understands the importance of excellent customer service and brings her mainland sensibilities and business acumen to her real estate career on the islands. For those who are intending to buy a home, second home, condo or vacation rental on Kauai, Nancy Williams will make your Kauai dreams a reality.
Nancy Jane Williams RS# 78697 • 808.346.7173 nancy@residekauai.com • residekauai.com/nancy
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What sets you apart from your competition?
Experience running my own company, selling technology and servicing clients, instilled in me a deep sense of responsibility for my clients. These business skills are applied to my real estate career and my clients tell me it shows. What is your favorite pastime when you are not working?
Everything outdoors on Kauai surfing, outrigger canoe paddling, snorkeling, diving, walking the beach, hiking the trails, gardening, "pau hana'ing" (happy hour-ing), watching the sunrise and sunset.
PROMOTION
'' It brings me great pleasure
to see my clients fall in love with a piece of art. ''
Qs How did you create the business you have today?
I grew up surrounded by art and artists and knew that collecting art could be a meaningful part of other families' dynamics as well. When I joined the board of the Headlands Center for the Arts, I realized that many of our friends were interested in the arts and happily participated in shows and gatherings and the rest is (art) history.
Upstart Modern
Bettina Stiewe, Art Consultant
Bettina Stiewe grew up surrounded by art. Her parents were serious art collectors which motivated her early on to learn all she could about the subject. Upstart Modern is a result of her passion for art and desire to match artists with collectors. The gallery offers a place to gather, introduce artists to collectors and collectors to new artists, share stories (and occasionally artist-led meals). From adventuresome and thought-provoking canvases to pieces with quiet minimalism, Stiewe helps her clients explore the unique possibilities by narrowing the selections and guiding them through the process. Upcoming events in March feature the art of Jock McDonald, Nellie King Solomon and Randy Colosky. In April Ray Beldner's Start up Fair is featured and Michael Cutlip will have a solo show in May. Specific dates and times are on the website. Upstart Modern • Bettina Stiewe • 415.559.0020 Bettina@upstartmodern.com • Upstartmodern.com
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What are your thoughts on growing and expanding your business?
I love the idea of bringing more art into homes and businesses. It brings me great pleasure to see my clients fall in love with a piece of art. If I can do more of that, I'm all in.
What is your favorite pastime when you're not involved with work?
Does travel qualify as a pastime? I'm so inspired when I'm out and about and I'm finding ways to get back into the world. When I'm in Marin, I'm hiking or biking Mt. Tam, walking the beach or playing pickelball. I love to cook and entertain (casually) and luckily my husband is the best dishwasher around!
PROMOTION
'' Unlike other
producers that
contract out bits and pieces of
the process, our
team is hands-on during the entire process. ,,
California Caviar Company
Deborah Keane, Founder
California Caviar Company is the global leader and the first sustainably farmed caviar company in the U.S. The CCC initials represent the mission of Company Connecting Change, linking the old-world traditions and mystique with new world innovation and sustainable aquaculture. Deborah Keane, known as the Caviar Queen, is the founder and CEO of California Caviar Company - the first woman-owned and woman-run caviar company. Keane has been setting the standards for sustainable caviar production worldwide since 2004. A renowned taste master and caviar master, she has built a complete, vertically integrated, spawning-to-serving enterprise and has painstakingly refined the process, creating the industry model. She has achieved national recognition throughout the industry as a leader and expert in sustainably farmed caviar and has been featured in the New York Times, WSJ, Huffington Post, Travel & Leisure, Food & Travel, NPR, CBS, NBC and E! Network. She is the recipient of numerous awards, including this year's Good Food Award for Queen's Reserve White Sturgeon. To experience this quality caviar and chef curated caviar tasting menu, visit The Bump Bar in downtown Sausalito at 1403 Bridgeway. California Caviar Company • Founder Deborah Keane • 415.33 2.0822 Deborah@californiacaviar.com • californiacaviar.com
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Qs What is unique about California Caviar?
We are the only caviar company that is vertically integrated from spawning to service, which means that unlike other producers that contract out bits and pieces of the process, our team is hands-on during the entire process. How Did Jacque Pepin become invol ved?
I was in the middle of a merger that was getting messy, and got a call from Jacque, who said he believed in me and encouraged me to go out on my own. And I did. Within two weeks I was sitting in my car in front of KQED adding California Caviar stickers to jars. I've never looked back. Favori te way to eat caviar?
Off the back of my hand, like a bump.
PROMOTION
'' Is this typical teen behavior or something more?,,
Qs Why did you decide to pursue this line of work?
I initially launched Wellify Teen (wellifyteen.org) to help parents of teens who are struggling with significant mental health issues to navigate from "Is this typical teen behavior or something more?" to finding local Marin County resources, regardless of income. Where did your passion originate?
As a highly-resourceful entrepreneur, when I couldn't figure out how to best help my teen and find the correct treatment- she was suffering from what we would later discover was mental illness - I knew I needed to create a way to help other families.
Wellify Teen
Sally Newson, Founder
What is your favorite pastime when you are not working?
Sally Newson is the Founder and Executive Director of Wellify Teen, a Marin County nonprofit dedicated to teen mental health care solutions, which offers a 4Help program providing a free, immediate, clinical assessment for teens at risk for a diagnosable mental health condition. Wellify Teen is also developing a 4Teens 24/7 mental health support app with digital therapeutic tools. Her passion for connecting and serving others is also evidenced in the types of for-profit businesses she has founded, including Mind Tank HQ (private office communities), Story-SF (brand storytelling), Design Temps (creative staffing), and the Village Corner store in Ross. An active philanthropist, Newson works to advance opportunities for the underserved, focusing on mental health, women representation, minimum wage increases, autism education, and youth active living. She is involved in Marin-based energy bar company, JAMBAR, which gives 50% of net proceeds to music and active living nonprofits. Wellify Teen • Founder Sally Newson • 415.847.2534 Sally@wellifyteen.org • wellifyteen.org
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Running along the gorgeous Tiburon waterfront, hiking with my hiking club, checking out all these great new restaurants popping up around Marin and day tripping through the back roads of West Marin and Sonoma County!
Advice to others?
Symptoms of depression and anxiety have doubled during the pandemic for youth across the country. It's hard for parents to know the severity of these symptoms and how to best support their teen. Early identification assessment for correct treatment can literally be a lifesaver.
PLANNER | LG
Annual Springtime Events I N T H E B AY A R E A
v Passport to Dry Creek, Sonoma County
to maximize your chances of a successful sighting. Concord’s Spring Brews Festival, hosted by The Brewing Network, is one of the best craft beer festivals in the Bay Area. Enjoy beverages from over 60 craft breweries as well as live music and great food.
One of San Francisco’s largest annual parades and one of the longest-running parades in the United States, the St. Patrick’s Day Parade is celebrated with live music, dance, beverages and traditional Irish cuisine.
The Sonoma International Live and Virtual Film Festival (SIFF) is an entirely walkable and clickable five-day festival dedicated to promoting the best in independent film and filmmakers from around the world. Named “One of the 25 Coolest Festivals” by MovieMaker Magazine and one of America’s Top Ten Destination Film Festivals by USA Today, SIFF takes place every March in Sonoma.
The Mendocino Coast Whale Festivals, which take place on concurrent weekends in the villages of Mendocino, Little River and Fort Bragg , are timed to coincide with the annual gray whale migration
It’s wine time. Come for four days devoted to exclusive musical performances, exquisite cuisines, and a unique variety of Napa Valley’s wineries, beers and spirits available at Yountville Live.
MARCH
APRIL San Francisco’s Cherry Blossom Festival is one of California’s most prominent celebrations of Asian traditions, spanning two consecutive weekends of performances, crafts, food, martial arts and exhibitions.
Pick of the Vine is one of the fun oneday Santa Rosa events in April when you can sample the best of Sonoma’s wine and beer. More than 30 wineries and craft breweries tend to participate. Be part of the story at Japantown Immersive, a festive open street event in San Jose reinventing the way audiences experience art, directed in collaboration with Epic Immersive.
s BottleRock
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Springtime Events
IN HAWAII
Planning a trip to the islands? MARCH If you’re looking for a day full of parades, crafts, and educational exhibitions, make sure to stop by
the Honolulu Festival supporting the Koa Tree Planting Project. One of Kailua-Kona’s premier events,
Kona Brewers Festival promotes the craft-brewing revolution in Hawaii.
APRIL r Taste of Temescal, Oakland
music concerts, visual art exhibits, theater and spoken word performances.
At the Passport to Dry Creek Valley, many wineries in Sonoma County create themes around which they showcase wine paired with food, and entertainment. All showcase the best current releases, library wines, and special bottlings only available during Passport.
Nobody does Pinot Noir like Anderson Valley, one of the most beautiful places in California. More than 50 wineries participate in the annual Pinot Noir Festival, including two dozen prestige labels from Napa and Sonoma that covet the fabulous fruit.
MAY The Yerba Buena Gardens Festival in San Francisco encompasses nearly 100 artistic, cultural and community events from May through October in Yerba Buena Gardens. Events include music series, cultural festivals, dance performances, international
For event dates and more info, scan here
Scintillate your palates with this culinary crawl (like farm-to-table trick or treat), one of Temescal’s most delectable annual events — Taste of Temescal in Oakland.
BottleRock Napa Valley is a three-day
music, wine, food and craft brew festival taking place in the heart of the City of Napa at the Napa Valley Expo.
You won’t see anything like the Waikiki SPAM Jam Festival on the mainland. The street festival celebrates Hawaii’s unusually large consumption of SPAM with a variety of booths and restaurants. The celebration also includes free entertainment and all of the proceeds benefit the Hawaiian Foodbank. Celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Maui Marathon on a course that takes you along West Maui’s best beaches during the official Whale Season in 2022. Maui Marathon weekend returns to Kaanapali Resort with the Full Marathon, Relay Marathon, Half Marathon, 10K and 5K.
MAY The Maui Onion Festival is dedicated to the cultivation and promotion of the Maui onion’s unique flavor — said to be the sweetest in the world. The festival includes chef demonstrations, competitions and entertainment of various kinds.
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TACOS TACOS TACOS
TYPE: BARBACOA
Origin: Texcoco, Mexico “Wow” ingredient or cooking method: Fire, steam or burying in the ground Meats such as goat, beef and lamb that have been either pit-buried, steamed or slowly fire-roasted.
8 Popular Taco Terms to Know By Tamara Palmer
AL PASTOR
Origin: Puebla, Mexico “Wow” ingredient or cooking method: Pineapple/spit-roasted Marinated pork that’s cooked on a trompo (spit roast), thinly sliced and topped with pineapple. Al pastor was influenced by what was originally a Lebanese technique.
TYPE: CHORIZO
Origin: Toluca, Mexico “Wow” ingredient or cooking method: Cured and cooked Ground pork that’s cooked, cured and used like sausage.
If you don’t speak Spanish, you might want to learn some of the common words to describe taco styles and meats before you set off n your dream taco quest. You’re likely to encounter at least some of them along the way, and you don’t want to miss a bite!
LJ SAEZDEO (BARBACOA); TT SENG (CHORIZO);
THEY CAN BE PUFFY, CRISPY, battered and fried, and basically anything you want them to be. We’re talking about tacos, of course. The most famous of all Mexican street food items, these unassuming antojitos — literally “little cravings” — have a fiercely devoted following in the states. Tacos were popularized across the border in the mid-1950s by Glen Bell, who sold stripped-down versions of Mexican varieties to a white clientele in San Bernardino. In 1962 he opened the first Taco Bell, which now boasts some 6,000 locations across the country. Taco Tuesday, a phrase that LeBron James tried and failed to trademark, draws millions of Americans out of the house every week and contributes handsomely to the tally of tacos that are eaten here annually. That number? Approximately 4.5 billion. Highly customizable and able to accommodate nearly all dietary restrictions, we can’t think of any other food that can be vegan and gluten-free without sacrificing flavor and clock-in at a budgetfriendly dollar or an eye-popping $25,000 — the latter is served on a gold flake-infused tortilla at Grand Velas Los Cabos resort. We’re biased but feel strongly that when it comes to this godsend of a meal, California’s where it’s at. Here are some useful terms to help elevate your order, as well as new and classic taco spots to check out in the Bay Area.
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TYPE: BIRRIA
Origin: Jalisco (birria de chivo)/ Tijuana (birria de res) “Wow” ingredient or cooking method: Slow-cooked stew A traditional stew of shredded goat meat (birria de chivo) or beef (birria de res). The latter has spawned trends like birria pizza and birria ramen in recent years.
TYPE: GRINGA
Origin: Mexico City “Wow” ingredient or cooking method: Grilled A grilled flour tortilla taco, topped with cheese, al pastor and pineapple.
TYPE: CARNE ASADA Origin: Sonora, Mexico
“Wow” ingredient or cooking method: Marinated and grilled Flank steak that’s marinated in citrus juices, grilled and thinly sliced or chopped for tacos.
TYPE: CAMPECHANO Origin: Campeche, Mexico
“Wow” ingredient or cooking method: Grilled (the “wow” is in a mix of beef and pork parts) If you’re craving a little bit of everything, try a taco campechano, which usually contains a texturally varied mixture of beef (often carne asada or cecina) and pork (such as chicharrón, chorizo or longaniza sausage).
TYPE: PESCADO
Origin: Baja California
LARRY MILLER (CARNE ASADA)
“Wow” ingredient or cooking method: Grilled, steamed or fried The Spanish word for fish, a popular taco protein that you’ll often see grilled or battered and fried.
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Classic & Upcoming Tacos I N T H E B AY A R E A
By Tamara Palmer
v Al Pastor Papi
North Bay
CLASSIC: El Huarache Loco Feast on crispy rolled tacos dorados and Tijuana-style fried corn tortilla tacos. You’ll also want one of the huaraches, sandal-shaped and fried corn masa dough with toppings; we like the huitlacoche (corn smut). P.S. They also sell on Sundays at the venerable Alemany Farmers Market in San Francisco. 1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur; 415.925.1403. huaracheloco.com
THE BAY AREA IS HOME TO OVER 7 million people, many of whom consider tacos to be a lifestyle pursuit. Take this guide and hit the taqueria and taco truck trail with us. Our picks include both classic and upcoming spots.
San Francisco
CLASSIC: La Palma Mexicatessen Open in SF’s Mission District since 1953, La Palma supplies many of the area families and restaurants with handmade corn and flour tortillas. Stop here for tacos any way you like them: suave (soft) or dorado (crispy). And make sure and grab a pack
of those tortillas to go. 2884 24th Street, San Francisco; 415.647.1500. lapalmasf.com UPCOMING: Al Pastor Papi You’ll often find the hot pink Al Pastor Papi truck rolling through San Francisco and the Bay Area at large, slicing juicy Mexico City-style pork and pineapple off he trompo for both commercial and humanitarian missions, like feeding farmworkers. There are always vegan options, too. Various locations. Follow @alpastorpapi415 on Instagram for up-to-date location and event information.
UPCOMING: Hook Fish Co. Though you can get salads, sandwiches and ceviche at Hook Fish, you definitely want to zero in on the tacos. Our ideal order is a plate of fried avocado tacos as well as tacos made with the most intriguing and super-local fish of the day. Hook Fish Co. at Proof Lab Beer Garden, 254 Shoreline Highway, Mill Valley; 415.569.4984. hookfishco.com
South Bay
CLASSIC: Taqueria La Veracruzana Vegetarians, carnivores and pescatarians alike will find something for their tastes here at this geared-to-go taqueria. Stop in for soft or crispy tacos that you can turn into “super tacos” with sour cream and guacamole, or perhaps a taco salad, if you’re watching your waistline. 1510 Jackson Street, Santa Clara; 408.261.2108.
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w Tacos Sinaloa
UPCOMING: Tacos El Chilanguito Pull up a stool at this family-owned taco truck and try their impressively stacked al pastor and whatever they recommend at the moment, really. Make sure you have cash for this stop, as credit cards are not accepted as of this writing. 75 Phelan Avenue, San Jose; @tacos_el_chilanguito on Instagram.
East Bay
CLASSIC: Tacos Sinaloa The original Oakland location of Tacos Sinaloa combines two wonderful seafood and meat taco trucks in one parking lot with outdoor seating. The newer Berkeley location offers the menu in a brick and mortar restaurant. 2138 International Boulevard, Oakland; 510.535.1206. 2384 Telegraph Avenue, Berkeley; 510.665.7895. tacossinaloaoakland.com UPCOMING: El Garage This beef birria specialist drew lines of eaters from all over the Bay Area when it was still based in an actual family garage. Now, it’s a brick and mortar taqueria poised to
set even more trends. If you’re a cheese lover, get the quesabirria tacos, which are sealed with plenty of melted goodness. 1428 Macdonald Avenue, Richmond; elgarage.online
Wine Country
CLASSIC: Tacos Garcia A family-owned truck, Tacos Garcia is an extension of a local restaurant that unfortunately burned down years ago. They’re making excellent tacos campechanos (which have a little of everything meaty) and other corn tortilla-plattered
delights that will likely have you planning your next visit while you’re still chewing. 6764 Washington Street, Yountville; 707.980.4896. UPCOMING: Picobar Chef Gustavo Rios, who hails from Ensenada, helms the kitchen of Picobar. The restaurant opened at the Solage in summer 2021 with crispy sole, duck mole and al pastor tacos made with pristine ingredients and slow-cooking techniques to savor by the pool or in your room for some private time. Picobar at Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection, 755 Silverado Trail North, Calistoga; 707.266.7534. aubergeresorts.com/solage
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Tiburon
U N D E R T H E R A DA R
Food Towns Once drive-bys, these Bay Area towns have kicked their food scenes into another gear. Add them to your bucket list.
Petaluma Richmond Alameda
By Christina Mueller
Alameda
Alley & Vine The pink panther cocktail is impossible to resist with its cheery hue and sly hints of reposado tequila, but the menu from chef Jason Ryczek (Waterbar, Farallon) thrills at every turn. Oysters sing of the sea yet hint of basil, a dusting of serrano chile on scallop enhances its briny character without overwhelming and duck ‘a l’orange hints of Julia Child until it hits a bergamot high note to take the dish to a new place.
(steak, plantains, griddled onions) at the counter and wait for the buzzer to tell you your food is ready. While you are waiting, also order a tofu taco. All of the tacos are topped with a generous helping of addictive cabbage slaw and a customized
Ceron Kitchen Anticipation is high for this not-yet-open venture from chef Juan Jaquez (Boulevard) who launched a home-based catering business for his mole-braised short ribs and cod with minted pea puree and pea “granola” before landing a brick-and-mortar location to call home.
Petaluma
Burma Superstar A branch of the San Francisco original, this is the spot to find their famous fermented tea leaf salad (it, too, bedeviled by global supply chain issues), garlic noodles and ginger lime soju margaritas. Cholita Linda Order a papito sandwich
Double Dutch — they are paired with half of a koji-inoculated chicken and served with chimichurri.
Stockhome Known for his work at San
r
Stellina Pronto v Spinning Bones
lashing of crema for that hi-lo lunchtime savory idyll.
Spinning Bones Lauded by Michelin in 2019 with a Bib Gourmand designation, a temple of barbecue and rotisserie leans into Asian spices and flavors. The St. Louis Ribs with yellow curry salt and pickled jalapeños are a hit, even better as the
Francisco’s now-closed Pläj, Chef Roberth Sundell built a menu of foods he craved while in his native Sweden for his latest restaurant. Scandinavian comfort foods like meatballs and gravy thickened with veal stock, cream and allspice and Mediterranean lamb kebab with saffron rice are top-sellers on an eclectic menu that earned a Bib Gourmand from Michelin, but Sundell says his pickled herring is not to be missed. Imported Swedish herring is served with pickled vegetables, dill and rye crackers. “It’s a Swedish classic,” says Sundell who recommends the dish with a pilsner as the perfect holiday repast.
Stellina Pronto A wide counter and a few tiny tables make the latest effort from chef Christian Caiazzo (Osteria Stellina)
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v The Bungalow Kitchen
Ayawaska Ridiculously fresh seafood is at the heart of a menu that features Peruvian flavors. Savor the catch of the day (it was recently halibut) in ceviche a la Huancaina with a “gravy” brightened with aji chile and yellow pepper or the pulpo anticuchero — that’s grilled octopus swiped until glistening with a bright chile sauce. The less adventurous can go for the seafood fried rice with fresh shellfish or the beef tenderloin with tomatoes and onions.
Pearl Middle Eastern flavors take the stage at a daytime cafe in Petaluma’s wharf district. The menu changes frequently but a pan-fried chicken falafel plate and local sand dabs with saffron corn and black-eyed pea salad express the California-by-way-of-Marrakesh cuisine. Enjoy it all on the sun-splashed patio or inside the small dining room.
seem more like a bakery than a restaurant. Sure, you can have an impeccably sourced salad or a focaccia sandwich with marinated chicken and arugula, but the Italian-inflected pastries are a highlight. There’s a classic torta della nonna with vanilla custard and pine nuts and fresh veggie frittatas atop a glass case stuffed with morning buns, chocolate croissants and muffins. Chef recently detoured to Milan with two takes on brioche Veneziano, a yeasty, not-too-sweet breakfast bun that hails from Lombardy: one traditional, dusted with sugar and stuffed with pastry cream; the other savory with anchovy-braised Niman pork inside.
v Anaviv’s Table
Brewsters Beer Garden Yes, it’s a pub and you can call it grub, but please do add an “elevated” for the distinct flair and seasonal inspirations that dot the menu. The must order is the Sho-Burger, so named for the former chef, Todd Shoberg. Toppings change frequently (just roll with it) or try the rubbed baby carrots with buttermilk ranch and a rub flecked with paprika, cumin and cocoa powder. It all tastes even better on the huge patio — it’s wreathed in Edison bulbs for that just-so glow.
Richmond Anaviv’s Table
The indoor dining room boasts a huge communal where a tasting menu is custom-designed for your group by chef de cuisine Ian McQueen. Outdoors, however, the Open Market experience welcomes smaller parties. Pizzas are
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a must — fired over almond wood, the sourdough crust is topped with foraged mushrooms and huitlacoche and three cheeses for an umami bomb that is utterly unexpected in this industrial setting. The gluten-free fried chicken is marinated in ginger and gochujang before a toss in pulverized koshikari rice and rice flour, then dunked in rice bran oil. The result is a crisp orange exterior that gives way to juicy flesh.
r
Brewsters Beer Garden
Lara’s Fine Dining The bayfront location with views of the harbor and
s Alley & Vine
San Francisco attracts a crowd on a beautiful day. The Italian-American menu — Caprese salad, soft shell crab sandwich — is instantly familiar. The marina seafood soup and rack of lamb are worth the trip. . Black Star Pirate BBQ Chef Tony Carracci inexplicably runs his barbecue joint under the radar of most Bay Area food writers. His brisket (ooh, those burnt ends!), crunchy braised cabbage and cheesy grits attract those who rely only on word of mouth. Until now.
Assemble Set along the waterfront, adjacent to the Bay Trail and next to the Rosie the Riveter Museum, this daytime spot is perfectly situated for people watching. Do eat something, though, as the chilaquiles, tropical fish tacos and tri-tip sandwich are top-notch.
The Factory Bar Tables shaded by red umbrellas mark the spot at Richmond’s hottest bar where the patio is flanked by a beautiful garden. Grab a seat amidst the fl wers (or inside where the theme is suited to the neighborhood’s shipbuilding past) for cocktails like a Point Molate margarita or a Winks festooned with grapefruit that celebrates the art of whiskey.
Tiburon
The Caprice Astonishing bridge to bridge views from every seat are just part of the charm of this newly reopened restaurant. Abalone doré is a must-order and, while crab is in season, the crab omelet with white cheddar and spinach is the meal you did not know you needed in your life.
ANGELA CLINTON (BUNGALOW KITHCEN)
El Garage A driveway pop-up in a residential neighborhood launched the quesabirria trend in the Bay Area a few years ago and shows no sign of stopping. The San Francisco Chronicle included them in their Top 25 Restaurants list earlier this year and here’s why: the quesabirria tacos from the Montanos family — crunchy outside, irresistibly soft with just the right amount of salt and melted cheese inside — are irresistible. They formalized the deal last year, moving into a brick and mortar building not far from the original pop-up.
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The Bungalow Kitchen A globe-
v Tiburon Tavern
trotting chef who lived in Marin for 20 years never managed to open a restaurant in the county until now and it’s a beaut — a two-story grande dame with a casual billiards lounge and bar upstairs and a seated restaurant and bar downstairs, both with wide decks and views of San Francisco. Look for chef Michael Mina’s signature tuna tartare as well as fresh takes on the California cuisine the chef is known for — lobster pot pie, spice-poached shrimp and miso-broiled sea bass.
are as popular here as the food, especially the prickly pear margarita bowl (it’s huge) and the original mai tai with lilikoi foam.
Tiburon Tavern Though the influences here are global, a restaurant tucked into a lodge just off he main drag is better known for Italian flavors. They shine in dishes like an Italian frittata (with black truffle and Parma ham) and a chicken sandwich on ciabatta with provolone, zucchini and tomato.
Sam’s Anchor Cafe Sail up to the dock or queue up for a table on the bayfront patio for shared plates of blue cheese garlic bread and a towering seafood platter. The drinks
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Bay Area Getties
DACIAN GROZA
What to do, where to stay, what to eat — some of the biggest questions in our everyday lives, and something we aim to help you with. The following are our first-ever Best of the Bay Area selections, affectionately called the Getties, as in “getaways.” The Getties were compiled by seasoned local writers and editors, so consider them your fail-safe guide to answering the aforementioned questions. But it takes an army, and none of these businesses would be so unforgettable without the people behind them — thank you for all that you do! Scan the QR code for the complete list of winners including the Readers’ Choice picks selected by our newsletter audience, shown here bolded in blue.
Park James Hotel
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Stay
w
Luxury
• Hotel Valencia
SAN FRANCISCO
• Nobu
• Four Seasons
• Park James Hotel
• Hotel Drisco
• Rosewood Sand
• Fairmont SF • InterContinental Mark Hopkins
r Sea Ranch Lodge
Hill
Value
• The Ritz-Carlton
SAN FRANCISCO
• The St. Regis
• Harbor Court
NORTH BAY
Hotel
• Blue Door Inns
• Hotel Griffon
• Casa Madrona
• Orchard Hotel
• Cavallo Point
• Petite Auberge
• Inn Above the
• White Swan Inn
Tid e
s Sausalito Equator
• Nick’s Cove
NORTH BAY
• Olema House
• Acqua Hotel
• Timber Cove
• Cottages at Little
EAST BAY • Berkeley City
COURTESY OF SEA RANCH; TANVEER BADAL (OLEMA HOUSE)
Club
River Cove • Embassy Suites • Jenner Inn
r Olema House • Claremont Club • Graduate Berkeley • Hotel Shattuck • Waterfront Hotel
SOUTH BAY
r AL’s Place
• The Clement • Four Seasons
• William Tell House
EAST BAY • Best Western Plus Bayside • Courtyard Oakland Airport • Executive
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Meet the Chefs from our Reader’s Choice Best Bay Area Dinners
Favorite dinner spot in San Francisco? The Progress Your go-to weeknight recipe to make at home? I’ve been on a big-time pho kick recently and have a new recipe I’ve been using for the broth. For the meat in it, there’s a new meatball I have been making with pork, beef, ginger, garlic, tons of mint and lime zest, white pepper and fish sau e. Add in some fresh rice noodles and garnish and it is really damn good. What inspired you to become a chef? My grandmother (Grandma Cook) inspired me to want to be a chef. Not because she was a terribly good cook (no offense), but just because how magical it seemed when we would go over and she would bring a ton of food out and people would be super happy.
LIMEWOOD BAR & RESTAURANT / East Bay CHEF: JOSEPH PAIRE
THE LEXINGTON HOUSE / South Bay CHEF: GLENN BALDEMOR
Favorite dinner spot in the East Bay? Currently, I’d say Sobre Mesa. They’re open later, so when I get off ork I have a place to go. The AfroCaribbean fl vors really hit the spot and with the tapas-style portions I’m able to try a variety of dishes. The beverage program is outstanding, as well. Your go-to weeknight recipe to make at home? I tend to make the most decadent grilled cheese sandwich ever with just a knob of butter on some rich brioche, two slices of Kraft American cheese, cooked low and slow until it’s GBD — golden-brown and delicious. Or if I want leftovers and it’s my day off, I love a great bolognese. What inspired you to become a chef? My family. My mother is one of 18 children, so every holiday and gathering was an “event.” Everyone cooked, so competition was fie ce. I cooked better than everyone except my Aunt Susie — she had a special touch and so much history and knowledge when it came to food.
Favorite dinner spot in the South Bay? Growing up in the South Bay, there was a large variety of cultures and options to choose from. I’m a simple man and love to eat what makes me happy, and taco trucks are one of those things; they’re unfussy, full of heart and passion, and absolutely delicious. Your go-to weeknight recipe to make at home? I immediately look toward foods that remind me of home and are naturally nostalgic. Crispy Spam with a fried egg and white rice makes me feel like a kid again. What inspired you to become a chef? The number one inspiration for joining the culinary industry is my family. My mom was the youngest of nine children and was consistently cooking and prepping food all morning and evenings to be able to enjoy a large meal together. After attempting to go the college route, and then electrician school I quickly realized those were not my calling. Final choice: culinary school. I fell in love and have not looked back since.
NICK’S COVE / North Bay CHEF: KUA SPEER Favorite dinner spot in the North Bay? Sweet T’s. A local favorite with great Southern Creole and BBQ. I love their shrimp and grits, jambalaya, the brisket and the amazing fried okra. I’m usually too full to try dessert, but one day I will. Your go-to weeknight recipe to make at home? I usually get takeout, but during the summer months I love to barbecue. I make Korean BBQ chicken with kimchi, white rice and grilled veggies because it reminds me of home (Hawaii). What inspired you to become a chef? I grew up a latchkey kid and as the fi st person home in the afternoon I’d start preparing dinner to help my parents out — I realized that I liked doing it. My mom was great in the kitchen and liked to experiment and cook dishes from lots of different cuisines. I followed in her footsteps and also watched a lot of Food Network as a kid, which showed me that it’s cool to be a chef and a fun way to taste the world.
DAWN COOPER (KOA SPEER)
AL’S PLACE / San Francisco CHEF: AARON LONDON
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Inn & Suites,
Hip
Embarcadero
SAN FRANCISCO
Cove
• The Battery
• Hampton
• Hotel Kabuki
Inn, Oakland
• Hotel Zetta
Downtown
• Phoenix Hotel
• Hilton Garden Inn, Emeryville • Hyatt Place,
• SF Proper
NORTH BAY • Dillon Beach
Emeryville
Resort
SOUTH BAY
• The Sea Ranch
• Bay Landing
Lod ge
• Creekside Inn
EAST BAY
• el PRADO Hotel
• Moxy, Oakland
• Hotel Strata
• Graduate
• Hotel Zico
Berkeley
• Hyatt Regency SFO
SOUTH BAY • Hotel Citrine • Nobu Hotel • The Park James
s Inn Above the Tide
Do
w
• Asian Art Museum
• California
• Aquarium of the Bay • Exploratorium
Acad emy
• Legion of Honor
of Sciences
• SFMOMA
• de Young Museum
• Walt Disney Family Museum
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Eat
• Jack’s Restaurant
w
& Bar • Los Gatos Cafe • Southern Kitchen
Breakfast
• Washoe House
SAN FRANCISCO
EAST BAY
• Blackwood
• Alem’s Coff e
Lunch
• Brenda’s Meat
• Berkeley Social
SAN FRANCISCO
Coffee
• Molinari Deli
and Three
Club
• Judahlicious
• Bette’s
• Nopalito
• Mymy
• Boichik Bagels
• One Market
• Sears Fine Food
• Brotzeit Lokal
• RT Rotisserie
• Zazie
• Saul’s Restaurant
• Souvla
NORTH BAY • Marvin’s Breakfast Club • MH Bread & Butter • Sausalito Equator • Two Bird Cafe
& Deli
• Spruce
SOUTH BAY
NORTH BAY
• Bill’s Cafe
• Brewsters Beer
• Breakfast Club at Mid town • Holder’s Mission City Grill
Gard en • Jam’s Joy Bungalow
r Homeroom
• Kitti’s Place
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• Sol Food
• Purple Onion
• Tony’s
• Zareen’s
Seafood
s Limewood
• Homeroom
• Harris’
SOUTH BAY
• Niku Steakhouse
• The Farmers
• Osso Steakhouse
• Watershed MV
Dinner
EAST BAY
SAN FRANCISCO
• Flea Street Cafe
Pizza
• Banh Mi Ba Le
• AL’s Place
• The Lexington
SAN FRANCISCO
• Cholita Linda
• Aziza
• Top Hatter’s
• Delarosa
• World Famous
• Liholiho Yacht
Hotboys
Union
House • Nemea Greek Tavern
Club
• Beretta • DamnFine • Fiorella
• Orenchi Ramen
• Golden Boy Pizza
SOUTH BAY
• Mister Jiu’s
• Sidecar Cafe
• Square Pie Guys
• Back A Yard
• Slanted Door
• Tamarine
• Tony’s Pizza
NORTH BAY
• The Village Pub
Caribbean Grill • Brown Chicken
• Cafe Beaujolais
Brown Cow
• Coastal Kitchen
Steakhouse
• Freshly Baked
at Dillon Beach
SAN FRANCISCO
Eatery • Orchard City Kitchen
• Nick’s Cove • Stillwater
EAST BAY
• Commis
• Alexander’s
• Claremont
• Daughter Thai
• Bobo Quivaris
Limewood • Comal
Kitchen • Great China
• House of Prime
• Cafe Zoetrope
Scan here for more
Rib
COURTESY OF FORGE
• Pedro’s
Resort • Cucina Paradiso
Napoletona • Ragazza
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Sutro Baths Specter
WHAT NOW APPEARS AS RUINS OF AN ANCIENT Grecian bath are actually the remains of a San Francisco mayor’s king-sized fantasy. They sit at the end of Geary Boulevard in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. The mayor’s name was Sutro, Adolph Sutro — and he lived big. He made his fortune in silver and then came to San Francisco where, in addition to becoming mayor in 1895, he opened his gargantuan Sutro Baths in 1896. These were not baths for leisure class. Sutro sought to enlighten, even elevate, the working classes. So, at his baths, the masses would not only exercise and refresh themselves, but also stroll beneath tropical palms while gazing at rare paintings, tapestries and Egyptian mummies. And about the baths, ah yes, the baths. One was filled with fresh water and six were filled with saltwater, and all were set at differing temperatures. Throughout the hangarlike structure, there were water slides, floats, trapezes and diving boards. The largest pool was ingeniously filled daily by the Pacific Ocean’s rising tide. In all, the pools could accommodate 10,000 bathers at a time. And if getting wet
By Jim Wood
wasn’t your style, Sutro Baths had a 3,700-seat amphitheater for stage shows and three restaurants that would seat 1,000 diners. In late-1800s dollars, Sutro Baths cost $1 million to construct and sat on three acres on the westernmost tip of San Francisco for 70 years. Unfortunately, Adolph Sutro died two years after his mecca opened and his absence took its toll. In 1937, his heirs converted the largest pool into a skating rink, but still business lagged. In 1964, developers bought the abandoned massive structure and a 1966 fire saved them their demolition costs — still, their plans for apartments never materialized. Today, the desolate remains of Adolph Sutro’s baths are one of many attractions of the 87,000-acre Golden Gate National Recreation Area. To reach the remains of the Sutro Baths, go west on Geary Boulevard from downtown San Francisco until it ends at the Pacific Ocean and the Lands End area of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. For more info, scan here
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