The Geneva Watch Auction: SEVEN Geneva, 12 & 13 May 2018
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CEO & Chairman
Edward Dolman
Cheyenne Westphal
Chief Executive Ofcer +1 212 940 1241 edolman@phillips.com
Chairman +44 20 7318 4044 cwestphal@phillips.com
Š Brigitte Lacombe
Senior Consultants.
New York.
London.
Aurel Bacs
Livia Russo
Paul Boutros
Doug Escribano
Manon Bega
Isabella Proia
Kate Lacey
Senior Consultant +41 22 317 81 88 abacs@phillips.com
Senior Consultant +41 22 317 81 88 lrusso@phillips.com
Head of Americas, International Strategy Advisor +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com
Senior International Specialist +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com
Business Development Manager +1 212 940 1274 mbega@phillips.com
Cataloguer & Associate Specialist +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com
Specialist +44 20 7 901 2907 klacey@phillips.com
Geneva.
Paris.
Alexandre Ghotbi
Virginie Liatard-Roessli Arthur Touchot
Tifany To
Marcello de Marco
Nathalie Monbaron
Pansy Ku
Head of Sale & Specialist +41 22 317 81 89 aghotbi@phillips.com
Associate Specialist & Cataloguer +41 22 317 81 82 vliatard@phillips.com
Specialist +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com
Specialist & Business Development Associate +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com
Regional Director, Business Development Director +41 22 317 81 83 nmonbaron@phillips.com
International Business Development Director +33 1 53 71 77 87 pku@phillips.com
Japan.
Genki Sakamoto
Specialist & Head of Digital Strategy +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com
Hong Kong.
Taiwan.
Kaz Fujimoto
Senior Specialist Consultant Senior Consultant +81 3 6273 4818 +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com kfujimoto@phillips.com
Cindy Yen Senior Specialist +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
Zach Lu
Thomas Perazzi
Jill Chen
Zi Yong Ho
Consultant +852 2318 2034 zlu@phillips.com
Head of Watches, Asia +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com
Specialist, Business Development Director +852 9133 0819 jchen@phillips.com
Specialist +852 2318 2031 zho@phillips.com
International Business Director.
Deputy Chairmen.
Svetlana Marich
Jean-Paul Engelen
Robert Manley
Alexander Payne
Peter Sumner
Myriam Christinaz
Worldwide Deputy Chairman +44 20 7318 4010 smarich@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Worldwide Co-Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1390 jpengelen@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Worldwide Co-Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1358 rmanley@phillips.com
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Deputy Chairman, Europe +44 20 7318 4063 psumner@phillips.com
International Business Director +41 22 317 81 84 mchristinaz@phillips.com
Miety Heiden
Vanessa Hallett
Vivian Pfeifer
Jonathan Crockett
Deputy Chairman, Head of Private Sales +44 20 7901 7943 mheiden@phillips.com
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Deputy Chairman, Americas and Head of Business Development, Americas +1 212 940 1392 vpfeifer@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Asia and Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art, Asia +852 2318 2023 jcrockett@phillips.com
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The Geneva Watch Auction: SEVEN Sale information Geneva, 12 & 13 May 2018
Auction & Viewing Location La Réserve 301, Route de Lausanne 1293 Bellevue, Switzerland Auction 12 May 2018, approximately 5.30pm immediately following the Daytona Ultimatum auction Lots 101–160 13 May 2018, 6pm Lots 161-285 Under the aegis of Maître Michel Jaquiery, Huissier Judiciaire Viewing Thursday 10 May, 10am – 7pm Friday 11 May, 10am – 6pm Saturday 12 May, 10am – 3pm Sunday 13 May, 10am – 5 pm Sale Designation When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as CH080118 or The Geneva Watch Auction: SEVEN. Absentee and Telephone Bids Tel +41 22 317 8181 Fax +41 22 317 8180 bidsgeneva@phillips.com
Watch Department Geneva Senior Consultant Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com Senior Consultant Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com Executive Assistant to Senior Consultants Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com Head of Sale & Specialist Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189 aghotbi@phillips.com
Specialist Tifany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com Associate Specialist, Cataloguer Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182 vliatard@phillips.com Specialist & Head of Digital Strategy Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com Specialist & Business Development Associate Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com International Business Director Myriam Christinaz +41 22 317 81 84 mchristinaz@phillips.com Regional Director, Business Development Director Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com Business Development Manager Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com Administrator Alexia Bénard +41 22 317 9667 abenard@phillips.com
New York Head of Americas International Strategy Advisor Paul Boutros +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com Senior International Specialist Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com Business Development Manager Manon Bega +1 212 940 1274 mbega@phillips.com Cataloguer, Associate Specialist Isabella Proia +1 917 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com Administrator Daniella Rosa +1 212 940 1395 drosa@phillips.com Paris International Business Development Director Pansy Ku +33 1 53 71 77 87 pku@phillips.com
Shipping & Ofce Coordinator Alban Aubertin +41 22 317 96 60 aaubertin@phillips.com
Japan Senior Specialist Consultant Genki Sakamoto +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com
Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com
Senior Consultant Kaz Fujimoto +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com
Hong Kong Head of Watches, Asia Thomas Perazzi +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com
Taiwan Senior Specialist Cindy Yen +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
Specialist, Business Development Director Jill Chen +852 2318 2000 jchen@phillips.com Specialist Zi Yong Ho +852 2318 2031 zho@phillips.com Senior Administrator Jacky Lam +852 2318 2031 jackylam@phillips.com
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London Specialist Kate Lacey +44 20 7 901 2907 klacey@phillips.com
Consultant Zachary Lu +852 2318 2034 zlu@phillips.com Advisory Board Jean-Claude Biver Henry Chan Helmut Crott Ike Honigstock Stephen Charles Li Auro Montanari Jason Singer Kenneth Wong
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Welcome By Alexandre Ghotbi The weekend of May 12-13 will be an exciting one not only because of our Geneva Watch Auction 7 whose catalogue you are holding but also thanks to our Daytona Ultimatum sale with its amazing selection of hand picked Cosmographs. Creating an auction catalogue is a long process equivalent to running a marathon at the pace of a 4x100m sprint relay race. We start months in advance to examine the property, undertake research, write footnotes, do photography, print and go on a travelling exhibition. It is the result of a joint efort of close to a dozen watch specialists on three continents travelling tens of thousands of air miles to hand select the watches featured here spanning over a century of watchmaking. Over 20 brands are featured in this catalogue with an immense variety in design, period, complications and price. But what they all have in common is their rarity, quality, the fact that they intrigue us, excite us and as the watch lovers that we are, enchant us. Among the highlights and special timepieces we are thrilled to ofer are a Patek Philippe reference 2499/100 in yellow gold which is the only one known with a champagne dial, a magnifcent pair (wrist and pocketwatch) of Patek Philippe Worldtimers with vibrant polychrome enamel dials, a unique Patek Philippe reference 3448 in platinum, a fascinating selection of 20th century Breguet timepieces and watches
from some of the greatest living contemporary independent watchmakers. We will need to stop here if not we would end up listing the whole catalogue. By the time the watches are ofered in Geneva they would have travelled the world starting with Hong Kong where we inaugurated our new premises, followed by Singapore and events organized with The Hour Glass thanks to our good friend and constant supporter Mike Tay. The horological capitals that are London, New York and Los Angeles being our fnal stops. We hope you had the opportunity to visit us at one of these exhibitions. We are delighted that our international team continues to grow, with wonderful additions to our family, since our last catalogue went to press we have welcomed Thomas Perazzi, a respected veteran of the watch auction community, as head of Phillips Watches in Asia, Yong Ho and Isabelle Proia as specialists in our Hong Kong and New York ofces respectively. We are committed in investing our time and considerable means to substantially grow our pool of talents but also invest in premises, catalogues, website and most of all our services to make your experience, as valued clients, a better one. Thank you for your trust and we look forward in welcoming you this season wherever you are located on the bezel or inner disc of lots 266-268 and share with you this amazing journey. Yours Sincerely, Alexandre Ghotbi
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Session one 12 May 2018, approximately 5.30pm immediately following the Daytona Ultimatum auction Lots 101–160
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101.
HEUER – A very fne and rare square shaped stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date aperture located at 6 o’clock and box
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
1969
Reference No.
1133B
Case No.
161’022
Model Name
Monaco “McQueen”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 11, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Heuer pin buckle
Dimensions
45.5mm Length, 44mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400 Accessories Accompanied by Heuer ftted box.
With its avant-garde case, the Heuer Monaco has always been associated with the Golden Age of chronograph watches of the 1960s and 70s. Designed by Jack Heuer and released in 1969, it was named for the famed Formula One racetrack, and worn by Steve McQueen in the 1971 classic flm Le Mans. Launched more or less at the same time as the Zenith “El Primero”, scholars still debate which brand ofered the frst automatic chronograph caliber.
The present example of Heuer’s legendary chronograph is preserved in absolutely mint condition, still retaining the original Heuer sticker on the caseback. It also comes with its original presentation box, typical pierced leather bracelet and period steel Heuer buckle. Since the re-launch of the Monaco on the occasion of its 40th anniversary, the original Monaco has gained again huge popularity. However, no re-edition can ever meet the original. This superb example ticks all the boxes for passionate collectors, with its seductive design, wearability, rarity, and near-perfect condition.
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102.
HEUER –A very attractive and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with orange accents on a white dial
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1971
Reference No.
1163T
Case No.
241’760
Model Name
Autavia “White Orange Boy”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 12, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 Δ $8,500-12,700 €6,900-10,300
In response to the quartz crisis, Heuer launched in 1969 its frst automatic chronograph movement, the caliber 11. Housed in their three iconic chronograph models at the time which were the Carrera, the Autavia and the Monaco, this movement was soon replaced by the more robust and more accurate caliber 12 featuring a gilt plate instead of a nickel plate. The present watch is powered by this gilt caliber but what makes it even more remarkable is to be found on the dial.
The early 70s saw the use of bright colors in design and day to day objects. The watch industry also took up on this trend and Heuer ofered some watches with orange accents on the dial. The best known is the “Orange Boy”: with a reverse panda dial with orange accents. The present watch, nicknamed White Orange Boy is actually its exact opposite, featuring a white dial with black registers, that have beautifully aged to a warm and lively brown patina while the orange accents have remained very bright. This version is much rarer as scholars have not witnessed more than 10 examples to have surfaced so far. The very well preserved condition of its case should persuade any demanding collector that this watch is a great addition to his or her collection.
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103.
BREITLING – A very attractive and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial and oversized 15-minute register
Manufacturer
Breitling
Year
Circa 1965
Reference No.
765 CP
Case No.
1’140’877
Model Name
Co-Pilot “Raquel Welch”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Venus 178, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Breitling pin buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,700 €6,900-10,300
In 1953, Breitling launched the frst reference 765 AVI: a large pilot chronograph with a 12H rotating steel bezel. The frst model displayed a digital 15 minutes counter at 3 o’clock and was referred to as the 765 Digital. This counter design was later replaced by a larger 15 minutes register with oversized luminous markers placed at 3 minute increments. In 1965 Breitling updated reference 765 AVI by replacing the steel bezel with an anodized aluminum one. This update was accompanied by a reference change to 765 CP (for Co-Pilot) and the introduction of two diferent bezels: a full black one and a half black and silver one. Even though the Co-Pilot was spotted on Olympic ski champion Jean Claude Killy's wrist during the 1968 Grenoble winter games, the watch got its nickname and fame afer it was worn by one of the greatest sex symbols of the 1960s-1970s, Raquel Welch, in the 1967 James Bond spoof, Fathom. With its large diameter, machismo and sex appeal associated with its rarity and overall excellent condition, the present lot will be a worthy addition to any vintage collection.
Courtesy Breitling
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104.
BREITLING – A very rare, highly attractive and early stainless steel pilot’s chronograph wristwatch with black dial, slide rule bezel and box
Manufacturer
Breitling
Year
1959
Reference No.
806
Case No.
917’093
Model Name
Navitimer
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 178, 17 jewel
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-6,000 $4,200-6,400 €3,400-5,100 Accessories Accompanied by Breitling ftted box, hang tag and product literature.
No stranger to pioneering feats of horology, in 1915, Breitling was among the earliest brands to launch a wristwatch chronograph. It was in 1923, that the manufacture patented a two-pusher chronograph, allowing for the frst time a chronograph to time separate, successive intervals without having to reset to zero between each interval. Breitling’s innovative and rich experience with chronographs resulted in one of the most iconic wristwatches of the 20th century and arguably, the most successful aviator’s wristwatch ever: the Navitimer. Over the years, the Navitimer has undergone a variety of cosmetic and mechanical changes, yet it has always remained a measuring instrument rooted in strong traditions.
The Navitimer is a tool watch in the purest sense. Each element of the watch was designed specifcally for accuracy and efciency in execution. The beaded edge allowed for pilots to grasp and turn the bezel while wearing thick leather gloves. The slide rule, a rather bafing complication to the layman, was critical in making intricate calculations in the pre-digital era. The present lot is perhaps one of its purest expressions of this tradition of aviation and innovation. It stands out with its exceptional state of preservation. It has been confrmed by the manufacture as being produced in mid 1959 with the corresponding ‘AOPA’ logo and all black dial with black subsidiary registers. The ‘AOPA’ logo, an applied gilt metal pair of wings, is the symbol of the Aircraf Owners and Pilots Association established in 1939 which is the largest international independent organization of pilots. The ‘AOPA’ Navitimer was only made for the American market, and is consequently stamped on the movement with the import code, ‘WOG’ for the Wakmann Watch Co., the American arm of Breitling. Complete with its hardly ever seen original box and product literature, it bears all the traits that embody a reference 806 from 1959, with its Venus 178 movement, beaded bezel, and Mark II white-painted hands.
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105.
A very attractive stainless steel diver’s chronograph wristwatch with Art Deco indexes and rotating bezel
Manufacturer
Breitling
Year
1959
Reference No.
807
Case No.
911’479
Model Name
SuperOcean
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Venus 175, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Tropic
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,200-42,300 €17,100-34,300
In the mid-50s’, Breitling was internationally renowned for designing watches for aviators and was supplying 25 of the world’s leading airlines companies of the time. So when, in 1957, the brand launched its frst divers’ watches with the two SuperOcean references 1004 and 807, they proudly stated in the advertising campaign that they were, from then on, ofering the same vital precision under the sea! Two divers’ watches were launched at the same time in order to ofer a choice between a manual wind chronograph, the reference 807 like the present model and an automatic time only version. Both watches featured a very distinctive concave bezel , which
was larger than the case. Not only this feature eased the manipulation of the watch with diving gloves but it also protects the large domed crystal. The dial design of the two versions was also very much alike with elongated radium markers and applied stainless steel triangle indexes going through a round luminous marker. Both models were waterproof to 200 meters which placed them in direct competition with the three other major brands ofering divers’ watch at the time: Rolex, Blancpain and Omega. However the overall design of the SuperOcean is more famboyant than that of the previously mentioned brands. In fact, scholars are of the opinion that the original 1957 SuperOcean was the frst watch in the world to feature white registers against a black dial. This was years before the other Swiss brands would follow this new design language. The present SuperOcean reference 807 chronograph is most probably one of the rarest dive chronographs to appear at auction as only a few were made and rarely does an example grace the auction room. Most of them seem to have disappeared under the sea. In very good overall condition with extremely sharp edges and superb defnition to the lugs, the present watch seems to have lived a very privileged life as if an occasional diver had bought it and preferred to enjoy it on the beach rather than facing the elements under water! The oversized concave bezel gives the watch great presence on the wrist and together with the dial design make this watch part of the elite league of instantaneously recognizable models.
Courtesy Breitling
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BREITLING Ref. 807 SuperOcean
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106.
OMEGA – An attractive and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black “racing” dial, tachymeter, bracelet and International Guarantee signed by retailer M. Galli & Sohn, Zürich
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1968
Reference No.
145.012-67 SP
Movement No.
26’077’572
Model Name
Omega Speedmaster Professional “Racing Dial”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather and stainless steel Omega bracelet, end links stamped 47, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp stamped 4.81
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed, case back further engraved Bennett A Hall Narrows IS Guilford CT
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400 Accessories Accompanied by original guarantee, Omega Extract of the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1968, and delivered to their Zürich agent M. Galli & Sohn.
Omega’s Speedmaster line is legendary amongst collectors, and today it is one of the most sought afer vintage chronograph wristwatches on the market. Introduced in 1957, the model has gone under various design and technical changes through the years, but it has always retained its DNA for precision timekeeping. Even the United States space program (NASA) outftted their early astronauts with the Speedmaster. The reference 145.012-67 SP was the last one to feature the famed caliber 321, and was used by astronauts on both the
Apollo 11 and 14 space missions. Similar to earlier models (reference 105.012), the case featured the now recognizable asymmetrical case with “lyra” style lugs, but the new reference sought to improve upon its water resistance capability by using new chronograph pushers, which were screwed in to the band, and denoted on the case SP or “Spécial Poussoirs”. The present watch is fresh to the market, consigned by the original owner who purchased the watch following a summer of trekking through Europe. The original International Guarantee shows the date of sale being August 7, 1969 from the retailer M. Galli & Sohn in Zürich. What attracted him to the timepiece was the more unusual dial style, now referred to as a “racing” dial. The early, “exotic” black matte dial also known as “racing dial” is highlighted with red hour marker accents, and red hour, minute and subsidiary seconds hands. They are believed to have been prototypes - only added to watches in exceptional cases and, according to scholarship, only sold in Switzerland and Japan. This Omega Speedmaster meets the demands of the most discriminating collector, coming from the original owner and in excellent condition, along with an extremely rare exotic dial variant that makes it a true horological gem.
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107.
OMEGA – A rare and remarkably well-preserved yellow gold wristwatch with two-tone dial, bracelet and original certifcate
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1946
Reference No.
OT 2364
Movement No.
10’433’134
Case No.
10’726’960
Model Name
Chronomètre
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 30T2RG, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Gold plated bracelet, max length 175mm
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated folding clasp
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by Omega “Certifcat de marche”, original ftted box, business card of retailer and Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1946.
During the late 1930s, Omega created the 30T2RG movement, which powered many of their time-only wristwatches. This chronometer certifed wristwatch is a time capsule in so many ways. Accompanied by its original “Certifcat de Marche”, it even retains the business card of the retailer where it was sold - Henri Blanc on Rue du Rhone, Geneva. Even more impressive is the watch’s condition. The two-tone dial is free of heavy tarnishing, which is remarkable as this watch is ftted with a snap-on case back. The case retains two sharp hallmarks, with one on either side of the case. Research shows that the present watch was produced on December 12, 1946 and delivered to Switzerland.
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108.
ROLEX – A fne and rare stainless steel wristwatch with date, bracelet, presentation box, original guarantee and chronometer certifcate
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1970
Reference No.
1680
Movement No.
D739’791
Case No.
2’631’521 inner caseback stamped I.70
Model Name
“Red Submariner”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet reference 7836, end links stamped 280, max length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex twinlock folding deployant
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
clasp stamped 3-69
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex ftted box, Guarantee dated October 8th 1972, Attestation de Chronomètre Ofciel, product literature, wallet, extra crystal and service papers from 2013.
The Rolex Submariner is not only synonymous of a dive watch but its design has become the benchmark to which all modern dive watches take cues from and its versatility makes it the perfect wrist adornment in every occasion. The vivid, red “Submariner” inscription positioned at 6 o’clock on the dial of the reference 1680 – Rolex’s frst Submariner model to be ftted with the date – makes it one of the most widely sought afer of all vintage Rolex sport wristwatches. Launched in 1967, the “Red Submariner” is without a doubt an iconic watch. Interestingly the present watch was bought in 1972 at the Seattle Navy Exchange and as such may have lived an exciting life flled with adventures in exotic lands over and under the seas. The Navy Exchange is a retail store chain owned and operated by the United States Navy and ofers goods to active military, retirees, and certain civilians on navy installations in the United States, overseas navy bases, and aboard navy ships. The present model with Mk IV dial impresses with its superb condition with strong case and bevels and beautiful cream indexes. Further enhancing its appeal is the complete nature of this wristwatch, which comes accompanied by its presentation box, guarantee, Attestation de Chronomètre Ofciel and product literature, making it an exciting trophy watch for a collection of vintage sports watches.
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109.
ROLEX – A fne and attractive stainless steel dual time wristwatch with center seconds and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1967
Reference No.
1675, inside caseback stamped 1675 and II.67
Case No.
1’655’676
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee Made in USA bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,700 €6,900-10,300
Reference 1675 was the successor to the frst GMT timepiece produced by Rolex, reference 6542. Launched in 1959, reference 1675’s most recognizable new addition is the presence of the crown guard, a feature which was appearing at this time on most Rolex professional timepieces - with the notable exception of the Daytona. Also the overall case construction is slightly diferent, sporting a more robust, thicker design, and the 24 hours bezel is made out of metal rather than bakelite. The earliest examples of reference 1675 still feature some details typical of earlier Rolex productions, such as the “roulette” date and the OCC designation on the dial. The date disc would become monochrome black, and the dial would be marked Superlative Chronometer/Ofcially Certifed. The present piece, made in 1967, is an exceptional specimen of this reference. Its production date places it among the frst 1675’s to feature the “fnal” dial confguration, and furthermore the overall condition of the piece allows the beholder to admire this masterpiece of utilitarian design in all of its glory. Most notably, the dial is preserved in spectacular condition, without any kind of mark or scratch, and it aged evenly to a very subtle of-black/antracite hue. The luminous material followed suit, gaining an immensely attractive light camel tonality.
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110.
ROLEX – A rare and very attractive yellow gold diver’s wristwatch with date, blue bezel, purple “tropical” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1978
Reference No.
1680
Movement No.
D’285’195
Case No.
5’061’377
Model Name
Submariner
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold deployant clasp and diver’s extension
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400
Launched in 1967, reference 1680 was the frst Submariner to feature a date, and its stainless steel iteration endured minor variations until about 1981. Just as with the GMT-Master and the Daytona, Rolex sought to ofer a more luxurious variant of this tool watch for their wealthiest and most demanding customers, and cased the Submariner in 18 karat yellow gold for the frst time ever. Form follows function, as they say, but aesthetics can trump the need for such functionality, and it cannot be denied that the combination of precious metal and rugged engineering is quite compelling. Although it was also made available with a black dial and bezel, the present lot’s deep royal blue bezel and original ‘tropical’ blue dial that has aged to a gorgeous shade of purple add an extra touch of extravagance. The coveted ‘nipple’ dial with its luminous hour markers have aged to a delicate ivory tone, matching the handset. The purple dégradé hue of the dial complements the gold case and bracelet perfectly; both colors are synonymous with royalty.
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29/03/18 15:39
111.
ROLEX – A very fne, rare and attractive pink gold and diamond-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1972
Reference No.
1803
Case No.
3’125’779
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Rolex President bracelet, max. length 200 mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped 72
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400
In the past 20 years pink gold has enjoyed a constant surge in popularity: whether it is the unconventional look it imparts to a timepiece, the fact that it is by some considered less ostentatious than its yellow counterpart, or simply that pink versions of a model are usually rarer than yellow ones, pink gold watches have carved themselves a special niche in the heart of collectors. The present watch, accompanied by its pink gold bracelet, fully epitomizes the allure of this metal. Obviously a luxury timepiece, it however features a warmer, more exotic vibe. To complete the ensemble, it sports an immensely charming dial with diamond-set numerals: a detail which amplifes the radiance and luxurious appeal of the watch but at the same time adds a tiny bit of playfulness and eccentricity to this remarkably attractive Rolex creation.
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29/03/18 15:40
112.
A rare and attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with green lacquer dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1987
Reference No.
18038
Movement No.
1’873’609
Case No.
9’639’900
Model Name
Day-Date “Stella”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex concealed deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 ∆ $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700
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From its introduction over 60 years ago, the Day-Date model has earned its iconic reputation throughout a dual identity. At times, very serious on the wrist of a president on ofcial duty and at others, refecting the frst lights of dawn when leaving an exclusive night club. The Day-Date is for sure one of the most versatile ambassadors of the crowned brand! This green lacquer stella dial is part of the exclusive color designed to appeal to the Jet-Set community. Further adorned with diamonds, known to be eternal, green is for many the color that symbolizes hope and success. Defnitely aimed to be enjoyed by the luckiest, the yellow gold case and bracelet add even more famboyance to this timepiece. The fantastic condition of this watch, displaying a perfectly preserved case with the factory sticker still present on the caseback, the most impressive edges around the day and date apertures attesting to Rolex’s stringent standards in quality along with the famboyant color combination make this watch the winning tierce of the competition!
29/03/18 15:40
ROLEX Ref. 18038 Day-Date “Green Stella”
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29/03/18 15:40
113.
A very rare and attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with coral colored lacquer “Stella” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1977
Reference No.
1803
Movement No.
DD’202’149
Case No.
5’175’417
Model Name
Day-Date “Stella”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex concealed deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 O $31,800-63,500 €25,700-51,400
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Among the most collectible of all Day-Dates are ones ftted with lacquer “Stella” dials. Translucent yet vibrant, “Stella” dials ofer so much exclusivity to the wearer, as no two are exactly the same in appearance. Rolex adorned their Day-Date watches with a variety of dials, ranging from yellow to mint green. One of the rarest and most sought afer are coral colored ones, such as the present example. This dazzling coral dial contrasts vibrantly against the diamondset numerals and black graphics. Despite being over 40 years of age, the dial still retains its highly glossy fnish, just as if it lef the factory yesterday. It is preserved in excellent condition, with no cracks or hairlines at all. All luminous dots are intact and perfectly match the luminous on the hands. The case is furthermore preserved in marvelous condition, and still retains two strong hallmarks on the underside of the lug. The proportions are robust, and the top of the lugs feature sharp fnishes. It even displays remnants of its factory sticker on the case back.
29/03/18 15:41
ROLEX Ref. 1803 Day-Date “Coral Stella”
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29/03/18 15:41
114.
An extremely rare, important and impressive platinum and diamond-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds, burgundy Stella dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1972
Reference No.
1804
Movement No.
DD’726’556
Case No.
3’773’511
Model Name
Day-Date “Octopussy”
Material
Platinum and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum and diamond-set Rolex President bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $106,000-212,000 €85,700-171,000 Accessories Accompanied by a Rolex Service Guarantee dated September 25, 2017
Launched in 1956, the Rolex Day-Date is one of the most recognizable and versatile wristwatches available in the market. It is a model that can be worn by both men and women, and over its 60 year history has been produced in a number of variations ranging from standard unadorned examples, to those with lacquered dials or gem-set, and it was made in stainless steel, platinum and all gold metals. The present wristwatch is an extremely rare example in platinum with diamond-set dial, diamond-set President’s bracelet, and rare stunning burgundy Stella dial. Rolex produced these dials from the 1960s until the 1990s. Using a multi-layering lacquer technique, the dials form a vibrant and rich color. Manufactured in 1972, the bezel has 46 round cut diamonds, and the bracelet is a work of art, and afectionately referred to by collectors as “Octopussy”. The outer edges of the links have prominent raised round-cut diamonds framing a raised baguette-cut diamond to the center, with the round, cylindrically set diamonds resembling the suction cups of an octopus. Without a doubt, it can be considered amongst the most lavish and most exclusive examples of the Day-Date sold during this era. For a collector that likes a little bling, this Octopussy is a dream come true.
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29/03/18 15:42
ROLEX Ref. 1804 Day-Date “Platinum Octopussy”
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29/03/18 15:42
115.
A set of three rare and attractive yellow gold, diamond, emerald, sapphire and ruby set calendar wristwatches with tridor bracelet, center seconds and champagne dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1990, 1986, 1986
Reference No.
18239B inside caseback stamped 18200 18039B inside caseback stamped 18000
In the mid-1980s, Rolex introduced the Tridor (as in three gold) version of the Day-Date. One single model with an elegant mix of three gold colors: yellow gold bezel, a white gold case and a President bracelet fused with yellow, white and pink gold center links.
18039B inside caseback stamped 18000 Movement No.
5’624’558 1’881’689 1’779’482
Case No.
E’759’118 9’064’318 9’302’305
Model Name
Day-Date Tridor
Material
18k yellow gold, pink gold and white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Gold Rolex President bracelet, end links stamped 55, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Rolex concealed deployant buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $52,900-106,000 €42,900-85,700
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The present lot is comprised of three exceptional examples of the Tridor. Each model is ftted with a wonderful champagne dial and either adorned with ten baguette-cut emerald, sapphire or ruby hour markers, harmoniously interlaced with round cut diamonds. The model featuring ruby hour markers also has the particularity of having an original, factory diamond set bezel. The state-of-the-art calibers powering these Day-Date models are characterized by the Double Quick-set day and date function, which allows a rapid date adjustment. Each watch in the present lot is in almost untouched condition with strong defnition to the lugs, retaining the factory original mix of brushed and polished surfaces. All models retain their original green Rolex sticker on the caseback, demonstrating how well-preserved they are. This is a rare opportunity to own three rare and uncommon Rolex Day-Date models, each with its own strong personality.
29/03/18 15:42
ROLEX Ref. 18239B / 18039B Day-Date “Tridor”
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29/03/18 15:43
116.
A rare and attractive stainless steel antimagnetic wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee, additional dial and hands
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
1019
Movement No.
M’885’684
Case No.
2’455’975
Model Name
Milgauss
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1580, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 382, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-35,000 ∆ $26,500-37,100 €21,400-30,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched guarantee, wallet, additional dial and hands.
Reference 1019 was introduced to the market as the successor of reference 6541 and 6543. While the new Milgauss retained its Faraday Cage in order to protect the movement from electromagnetic waves, the model also featured a fresh and modern update to its appearance such as a smooth bezel and modifed dial layout. The present model is a rare and early example with square luminous dots, luminous indexes at 3, 6 and 9 as well as 1/5 hash markers around the dial. Only later examples would feature 1/2 hash marks. It is further characterized as a "rail dial" as the words "chronometer" and "certifed" line up. Not only fnding a "Milgauss" with this dial confguration is a difcult task but fnding a model with both a silver and black dial as well as additional handset pushes this watch into the realms of almost unheard of territory. This watch is presented in excellent condition with sharp bevels, crisp edges and even retains its original factory sticker on the case back the fact that it is accompanied by its punched guarantee and additional black dial and hands present a unique opportunity that should not be missed.
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29/03/18 15:43
ROLEX Ref. 1019 Milgauss “With Two Mk I Dials”
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29/03/18 15:43
117.
A very rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, hack feature and military markings, made for the British Royal Navy
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1974
Reference No.
5513
Case No.
3’764’757 repeated inside the case back. Caseback
In the early 1970s, the British Ministry of Defense commissioned Rolex for a special model to be worn by members of its armed forces. Instead of building a new model, Rolex decided to modify the reference 5513, a very capable diving watch and the perfect candidate for a military watch.
further stamped with military issue numbers 0552/923-7697 and and unit number 82/74 Model Name
“Milsub”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
NATO
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 120,000-180,000 O $127,000-191,000 €103,000-154,000 Literature The military reference 5513 is illustrated in 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, pp. 212-213 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex pouch.
It is obvious why military watches are so collectible. They are rare and even more so in good condition, they have incredible history and most importantly they were never marketed as they were issued to servicemen.
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These “Military Submariners”, or “MilSubs”, difer in many ways from standard production pieces as to comply with the specifcations of the MOD. They feature thicker, sword-shaped hands for enhanced readability, a rotating bezel calibrated to 60 minutes, an encircled “T” on the dial indicating the use of luminescent Tritium, and solid steel bars fxed between the lugs, permitting the use of a nylon NATO strap that ensured a watch would not be separated from its wearer. Finally, the case back has the following engravings: 0552 for British Ministry of Defense, 923-7697 for the NATO code, the Broad Arrow characterizing all watches owned by the British Army, the issue number 82 and issue year 74. The present example, issued in 1974, is in remarkably original and unrestored condition, with all of its original militarized features perfectly intact. Both the reference and serial numbers fnely engraved between the lugs are clearly legible and repeated to the inside the caseback, as the connoisseur would expect. One of the rarest Rolexes to appear on the market the present “Mil Sub” can only fnd a top shelf position in the collection of singular Rolexes.
29/03/18 15:43
ROLEX Ref. 5513 “Milsub”
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29/03/18 15:43
118.
An extremely rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with white gold reolving bezel and United States Air Force Thunderbirds emblem
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1958
Reference No.
6609
Movement No.
N’866’524
Case No.
388’431, inner caseback stamped II.1958
Model Name
Datejust Turn-O-Graph “Thunderbird”
Material
Stainless steel and 18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1030, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, reference 6251H, end links stamped 55, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 3.71
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700
The Thunderbird, a mythical creature found in many American indigenous cultures, symbolizes strength and power and in some interpretations, creates the sound of thunder by fapping its wings. It is therefore ftting that the United States Air Force air demonstration team adopted the moniker ‘Thunderbirds’, as an obvious nod to their form of aerial acrobatics and their proximity to several Native American reservations. Established in 1953 at Luke Air Force Base in Arizona, the Thunderbirds are one of the oldest air demonstration teams in the world. During the production of this particular wristwatch in 1958, the Thunderbirds few the aircraf F-100C Super Sabre, and in 1956 they few at a supersonic level. In an attempt to capture the American market with its booming post-war economy, Rolex aligned themselves with the Thunderbirds in their promotional materials, and nicknamed their reference 6609 Datejust Turn-O-Graph the ‘Thunderbird’, placing the team’s emblem directly on the dial. However, it is believed that these wristwatches with the Thunderbird emblem were never available in serial production and were instead only given to those who qualifed to serve on the prestigious air demonstration team. Only one other Thunderbird with the actual Thunderbird emblem has ever been seen publicly, the other being a full 18K yellow gold version belonging to Captain Chares W. Maultsby, who few in the right wing position for the Thunderbirds beginning in 1959, and is currently in a private collection. The immediate predecessor to the current reference 6609, the 6309, established what was once a watch oscillating between sports watch and casual dress watch into a defnitive dress watch in the Datejust family. Advertisements of the era distinguish that the watch was only available cased fully or partially in precious metals, either yellow gold or white gold. The current example, a reference 6609 is featured with a stainless steel Jubilee bracelet and an 18K white gold engine-turned bezel separated into fve minute designations. Additionally, this 6609 boasts a ‘roulette’ date wheel with alternating black and red date numerals, and a silver sunburst dial, both serving to enhance the vividly printed Thunderbird emblem at six o’clock. A beautiful patina has developed on the white gold bezel over time, so that it contrasts smartly with the stainless steel of the bracelet and silver of the dial. Produced only from 1956 to 1959, the present lot is an extraordinary example of the reference 6609 ‘Thunderbird’. The frst and only steel reference 6609 with the ‘Thunderbird’ emblem to ever appear publicly, this is an excellent opportunity to own an important piece of both Rolex and American history.
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29/03/18 15:43
ROLEX Ref. 6609 Turn-O-Graph “Thunderbird”
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29/03/18 15:44
Breguet: Rare 20th Century Watches
Abraham-Louis Breguet was born in Switzerland in 1747, but like so many other young watchmakers, he soon moved to Paris where he established his workshop, before becoming French himself. A genius watchmaker, whose long list of inventions include tourbillon, perpétuelles, souscription, tact, and repeating watches, Breguet quickly became a favourite with Europe’s noblesse. His connections with the French court ensured his fame across the continent, and meant that his watches would end up in the most powerful hands, including those of Louis XVI and Napoleon Bonaparte. Breguet kept time on the world’s afairs. Many centuries later, Breguet’s watches were still the French military’s frst choice. Made in steel and worn on the wrist, the Type XX was a very diferent kind of Breguet. In fact, most of the watches made during the 20th were. For many reasons, including the emergence of a middle class, the introduction of the wristwatch, and the many changes at the head of the frm, Breguet began producing more economical and functional watches for a broader clientele.
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In this catalogue we highlight some of the rarest and most attractive pieces made during that brief period of the manufacture’s story. As we are about to show, Breguet produced an impressive variety of watches, ranging from alarm wristwatches to fy-back chronographs, and watches meant for pilots, divers and other professionals. If you needed it, Breguet could make it. Not the way it did in the 18th century but still with the emphasis placed on quality and precision. Breguet even made watches for…Breguet. One of the highlights of the sale is a “Pre Type XX” sold to the Société d'Aviation Louis Breguet, a company started by the watchmaker’s great-grandson, and delivered two years before the French government received the frst batch of Type XX military watches.
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We are delighted to present this selection of ffeen Breguet watches, all made during the 20th century, which display the manufacture’s resolve and eternal fair during the most uncertain period of its long and beautiful history. The selection of Breguet watches will be divided into three parts: Part 1: Lots 119-122 Part 2: Lots 227-231 Part 3: Lots 269-272 We sincerely thank Montres Breguet and especially M. Emmanuel Breguet, for kindly supplying us with information from their archives.
29/03/18 17:13
A very rare, attractive and historically important stainless steel fyback chronograph wristwatch with black glossy dial
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1952
Case No.
1164
Model Name
“Pre Type XX”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 14”, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case numbered, dial signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $26,500-52,900 €21,400-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet “Attestation” confrming production of the present watch in 1952 and its subsequent sale to Société d’Aviation Louis Breguet on February 3, 1953 for 27,000 French Francs.
The discovery of the “blue print” of one of the most iconic watches of the second half of the 20th century results in an uncontrolled sense of exhilaration.
reset and restart the chronograph from an instantaneous timekeeping in order not to fy of course. The ‘type’ designation was not a specifc model name for a particular brand, but rather it was the military specifcation commissioned by the French government, which several brands provided. Breguet’s “Type XX” became the best known of these military chronograph watches. The present watch sold to aircraf manufacturer (and descendant of Abraham-Louis Breguet) Louis Breguet in 1953 (two years before the delivery of the frst Type XX to the French government) sets the codes of the future Type XX such as syringe hands, large luminous Arabic numerals and grooved rotating bezel. This Breguet n° 1164 is not only historically important but it is a slice of pure awesomeness. It lures in seductively with its large masculine case, short thick lugs and fat bezel. The dial however is the most striking element of this Breguet chronograph. The unusual and rarely seen vibrant black glossy dial is a wonderful canvas for the Arabic numerals that have turned to an elegant cappuccino color. A timepiece of incomparable elegance and rarity, the present watch is a must have in the collection of the savvy collector.
Breguet’s Type XX doesn’t really need an introduction. Delivered to the pilots of the French navy in 1955 this chronograph was commissioned by the French government seeking a more accurate timekeeper for both their Naval and Air Force. They sought a multipurpose chronograph wristwatch with fyback function, which allowed the user to quickly
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29/03/18 15:45
Breguet “Pre Type XX”
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29/03/18 15:45
A very rare and attractive stainless steel military chronograph wristwatch with black dial
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1955
Case No.
7710
Model Name
Type XX
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 222, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Nato
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case signed. Caseback further engraved with multiple “Fin de Garantie” markings.
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Certifcate confrming sale of the present watch to the “Ministère de l’Air” (French Airforces Ministry) on June 17, 1955
More than “just a model name”, Type XX was the project code used by the French Ministry of Defense to defne the specifcations of a military watch that would equip the pilots of their naval forces. At the beginning of the cold war, the French government decided that they needed to have their own military watch. In the mid-50s they presented the specifcations to diferent watch brands including Breguet.
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The watch had to be very legible at night with a black dial and large Arabic luminous numerals. Movement wise, the watch needed to be accurate within eight seconds a day and have a power reserve of more than 35 hours. But the most important feature was a fyback chronograph to allow pilots to reset and restart the chronograph instantly. It would also feature a rotating bezel to remind the wearer of a specifc event such as its fuel reserve! The present watch is part of the exceptionally rare issued watches to survive in such good condition. Over the course of its history the Breguet Type XX was produced either in a military or a civilian version. To keep the readability of the issued watches, the dial did not display any information such as the brand or the model name. Only the caseback was engraved with Breguet, Type 20, 5101/54 and then further engraved with FG and a date. Interestingly, the caseback of this watch bears a large number of these inscriptions starting with FG which stands for “Fin de Garantie”: end of guarantee in French. These engraving were made by the watchmaker that would have serviced the watch to inform the pilot when he should have his watch serviced next. This watch bears inscriptions almost every 2 years from 8.56 to 13.2.79. Among the brands that have been commissioned by the French Ministry of Defense to produce the Type XX, Breguet is the one that has gone down in the collective conciousness as the French Aeronaval’s watch!
29/03/18 15:45
Breguet Type XX
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29/03/18 15:46
A very fne and extremely rare stainless steel fyback chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1965
Case No.
2993, inside case back further
Model Name
Type XX
Material
Stainless steel
hand-engraved 668PB
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 720, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Dial signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $26,500-52,900 €21,400-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet “Attestation” confrming production of the present watch in 1965 and its subsequent sale on July 16, 1965 for 538 French Francs
Military-issued timepieces fully exemplify the appeal vintage watches have on collectors: utilitarian tools which over time transcended their intended nature to efectively become works of industrial art. Indeed, the demands various armies had for specifc military features are what eventually brought to life timepieces which are set apart, both technically and aesthetically, from watches without military ties. One of the best known and appreciated among such military timepiece is Breguet’s Type XX. First commissioned by the French Army in 1954, the Type 20 was intended as a
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navigational tool and its defning feature was the fyback function, invaluable to a fight navigator. Furthermore, it had to sport at least 35 hours of power reserve, a 300-start-stopreset-cycles reliability, and an accuracy no less than +/- 8 seconds per day. The Type 20 was commissioned to a number of companies: Airain, Auricoste, Dodane, Seliva Chronofxe, Vixa and Mathey Tissot. It would actually seem that Matthey Tissot also manufactured some Breguet’s Type XX in the 1950s. Interestingly, Breguet is the only one of these companies to ofcially use the Roman Numeral style: Type XX. While originally intended as military timepieces, a civilian version was eventually commercialized, recognizable by the absence of military markings to the back and the Breguet signature on the dial. The present watch is an extremely interesting example of such civilian-issued Type XX. Breguet Type XX from the 1950s and 60s come in a plethora of variation: engraved or blank bezel, diferent calibres (such as Valjoux 22, 222, 225, 235 720 or Lemania 1377), two or three subsidiary dials. The present piece features one of the least commonly seen and most aesthetically striking details to ever appear on this model: a tachymeter scale. Research of the piece with the Breguet Archives discovered that the watch was sold on July 16, 1965 to M. Ducharne for 538 French Francs. Furthermore, it appears that precisely during those years (1965-1970), Breguet supplied such tachymeter dials on special request. This leads us to believe that, most probably, the present timepiece was issued afer a special request of Mr. Ducharne, making it one of the most appealing and rare Type XX to be ofered for sale in recent years.
29/03/18 15:46
Breguet Type XX “Tachymeter”
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An extremely rare and highly attractive yellow gold fyback chronograph wristwatch with 12-hour bezel
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1956
Case No.
1745
Model Name
Type XX
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 222, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold pin buckle
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case stamped, dial signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 $42,300-63,500 €34,300-51,400 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Certifcate confrming sale of the present watch on June 8, 1956 for 115,000 French Francs to Mr. Sambon. The Certifcate also confrms that only 3 frst generation Type XX models in gold were produced
Breguet’s Type XX fyback chronograph was introduced in the early 1950s based on military specifcations provided by the French government. They sought a rugged multifunctional chronograph wristwatch with fyback function for use by both their Navy and Air Force. The ‘type’ designation was not a specifc model name for a particular brand, but rather it was the military specifcation commissioned by the French government, which several brands provided. The chronograph needed a fyback mechanism in order for pilots to quickly
reset their watches for dead reckoning navigation. Over the ensuring years, the Breguet model has become highly desirable within the vintage collector community, known for its large masculine case, easily readable luminous dial, and its fyback mechanism. As manufacturing costs rose, the French government discontinued its use, however Breguet decided to commercialize it and sell to the general public. While the military examples were manufactured in stainless steel, the present, extremely rare, yellow gold example is one of only three known made in 1955 as confrmed by the Breguet Certifcate accompanying this watch. According to Breguet’s archives, the watch was sold on June 8, 1956 to M. Sambon for the extraordinary price of 115,000 French Francs. A second known example is exhibited in the Breguet Museum in Paris. While their exact use remains unknown, it is unlikely an 18k gold timepiece would have fared well in a harsh military environment. Considering the high price when originally sold it is was therefore likely a special and exclusive edition for a very select clientele. This watch retains a bold masculine feel. This early, rare and extraordinary example of the Breguet Type XX in yellow gold is sure to provide savvy collectors with many years of enjoyment.
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Breguet Type XX “One of Three in Gold”
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123.
A fne and very rare stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch with “lollipop” center seconds, bracelet and box
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1958
Reference No.
CK 2913-7 SC
Movement No.
15’706’469
Model Name
Seamaster 300
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 501, 20 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
clasp stamped “4 60”
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,200-42,300 €17,100-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by red Omega presentation box and Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1958 and its subsequent delivery to South Africa.
The Seamaster line is the oldest series of Omega timepieces still in production today. Its origin dates back to 1948 when, celebrating the 100th anniversary of the brand, a new wristwatch model was released: indeed the Seamaster. Featuring water resistance capabilities, this was a civilian application of technologies developed during wartime, but it still maintained a very “1940s”, “non-tool” overall design. This all changed in 1957.
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1957 is a year Omega enthusiasts have branded in their minds, as it is the year when the “Holy Trinity” of Omega professional timepieces saw the light of day, with the release of the Speedmaster (ref. CK2915), the Railmaster (ref. CK2914), and indeed the Seamaster 300 (ref. 2913, exemplifed by the present lot). These three models are considered so iconic and landmark, that last year (2017) a re-edition of all three was issued by Omega among collective acclaim from the collector community. As with the other two references, the Seamaster 300 features the extremely rare and attractive broad arrow hands, giving it an extremely distinctive look which has grown to “cult” status for Omega collectors. Furthermore, compared to earlier Seamaster iterations, reference 2913 was a truly professional timepiece, conceived as a tool to aid scuba divers in their explorations. The broad hands allow for high legibility in all condition, and the revolving bezel was specifcally designed to aid with decompression time. The present example was delivered to South Africa on March 1, 1958 and is without a doubt one of the most attractive and wellpreserved to grace an auction room. Fully correct, it features “lollipop” center seconds, a fawless revolving bezel still retaining its original radium dot, and outstandingly crisp engravings to the case back. Considered the growing interest in the world of vintage watch collecting in general, and in the realm of professional timepieces specifcally, it is quite possible that a piece of such absolute correctness and incredible condition will take decades to resurface on the market, making this an unmissable opportunity for the most discerning and demanding of the collectors.
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OMEGA Ref. CK 2913-7 SC Seamaster 300 “Mint Condition”
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124.
A fne, early, very rare and highly important stainless steel chronograph with bracelet
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1958
Reference No.
2915-1
Movement No.
15’997’591
Model Name
Speedmaster
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel semi-expandable Omega bracelet, maximum length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
clasp stamped “2 60”
Estimate CHF 80,000-140,000 $84,700-148,000 €68,600-120,000 Accessories Accompanied by two period instruction leafets and red ftted presentation box. Furthermore delivered with Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch and its subsequent sale in Costa Rica on December 17, 1958.
The Omega Speedmaster is arguably the wristwatch that most directly competes with the Rolex Daytona for the scepter of most popular sport’s chronograph wristwatch of the past century. Reference 2915, the frst Speedmaster model is the reference which by far is the most easily recognizable amongst all following Speedmasters. While it already features the key elements of the model - the overall dial and case design, the tachymeter scale on the bezel, the screw back case - it also has a number of traits which aesthetically put it apart from the later models: the large “Broad Arrow” hands, the metal bezel - rather than a bezel with black insert and slightly diferent dial graphics, distinguishable by the oval “O” of Omega. The case also has details which will later be abandoned, such as the “Speedmaster” designation engraved on the edge of the case back rather than on the center and the lack, in earlier examples such as the present one, of the Seahorse engraving.
while others sport traits of later reference 2998 (alpha hands, bezel with black insert) and others again are a mix of the two. The present Speedmaster example is one of the extremely rare -1 iterations and furthermore preserved in extremely attractive condition: the dial is virtually fawless and has turned a perfectly balanced and harmonious dark chocolate color, the luminous material has evenly aged to an outstandingly attractive intense tobacco hue. According to the Archives of Omega, it was sold in Costa Rica on December 17, 1958. This perfectly matches some details of the specimen: the caseback is without the Seahorse engraving and this is possibly one of the very last examples made with this caseback. The bezel instead is a Mark II version, with rounded 3 instead of a fat one. Mid-1958 is exactly halfway through the production run of the model, a detail which perfectly explains this rare “transitional” confguration. Considering how intensively these wristwatches were used by their original owners, it is an extremely rare occurrence for 2915-1 to arrive to us in such an unspoiled and original condition and is even accompanied by its original box and instruction leafet. It will easily be years before an example in such appealing condition makes an appearance on the public market, rendering this an extremely rarifed opportunity for the collector of high-end vintage timepieces to own one of the best-in-class examples of what is indisputably one of the most elusive and collectible models to ever come out of Omega's workshop.
In production between 1957 and 1959, reference 2915 is known in three diferent iterations: -1, -2, and -3. CK2915-1and -2 are the very frst Speedmaster models and the most collectible. They are practically identical to each other, with some minor graphic variations noticeable on the tachymeter scale of some - not all - 2915-1. The -3 version is instead a transitional model, and much more difcult to defne as some examples feature elements typical of 2915-1 and -2 (broad hands, metal bezel)
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OMEGA Ref. 2915-1 Speedmaster “Broad Arrow”
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125.
An attractive, rare and large stainless steel wristwatch with date, bracelet and original cork presentation box retailed by Gübelin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1978
Reference No.
3700/1
Movement No.
1’306’135
Case No.
537’036
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28-255C C 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $52,900-106,000 €42,900-85,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe cork ftted presentation box and Extract from the Archives confrming manufacture in 1978 and subsequent sale on April 16, 1978.
The result of a fruitful collaboration between Patek Philippe and designer extraordinaire Gerald Genta, the Nautilus’ unique appearance was inspired by the robust proportions of maritime portholes and named for Captain Nemo’s submarine the Nautilus in Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. Much as the fctional nautical vessel was described by the
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novel’s protagonist as “a masterpiece containing masterpieces,” so does the Nautilus wristwatch possess a numerous variety of artistic cues. The reference 3700/1 embodies every aspect of Patek Philippe’s avant-garde design philosophy of the 1970s, from the bold yet elegant curves, to the contrasting fnish of the case, and even the delicate grooves of the dial culminating in a sublimely robust and elegant wristwatch. Advertisements from the era trumpeted the Nautilus’ status as one of the most expensive steel wristwatches, and proclaimed “Like the great swords of another age, Nautilus took shape between the skilled hands of master crafsmen.” Evidence suggests that of all Genta’s iconic designs, the Nautilus was his favorite and he perhaps regarded it as his most timeless. The present lot is accompanied by its original, highly coveted cork presentation box. Rarer still is the Gübelin retailer signature on the dial above six o’clock, as research indicates that the present lot is only the seventh reference 3700/1 to appear on the market to bear the name of this prestigious retailer. Owing to a thinner caliber, the 3700/1 retains a slimmer profle than its 21st century descendent, the 5711/1A, introduced on the 40th anniversary of the 3700 in 2006. The ‘Jumbo’ moniker refers to the 42mm case with wide fat bezel, integrated steel link bracelet, and ultra-thin automatic movement, possessing a rather masculine aesthetic compared to the smaller dressy gold mechanical watches of the time. While it was initially not well received - if the lag between the present lot’s production in 1978 and sale in 1980 is any indication - its popularity quickly grew, and has been a mainstay of Patek Philippe’s collection until the present day.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3700/1 Nautilus “Gübelin”
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126.
An attractive and extremely rare yellow gold wristwatch with enamel dial retailed by Hausmann & Co
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1956
Reference No.
2577
Movement No.
746’439
Case No.
689’670
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 10-200, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold pin buckle signed PPCo.
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-140,000 $74,100-148,000 €60,000-120,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1956 and its subsequent sale on April 12, 1957.
When associating the words Patek Philippe and grand feu enamel dial the automatic reference 2526 and its successor the reference 3428 immediately come to mind. However, the elusive reference 2577 launched in 1956 is also part of this elite circle and much rarer than its peers. In fact it is so rare that previously only 6 examples in yellow gold were known. The present lot is the seventh and earliest example. Enhancing even more its desirability and transforming rare into unique is the Hausmann & Co signature on the dial of the present lot. Founded in Rome in 1794 by Ernst Hausmann and Hermann Frielingsdorf, Hausmann & Co. is one of Patek Philippe’s most prominent retailers in Italy. The present reference 2577 is the only known with this prestigious signature. Unlike the references 2526 and 3428 housed in rather classical Calatrava style cases, the present model with its faceted “spider lugs” is audacious and unashamed which together with the beautiful, delicate and unharmed cream grand feu enamel dial with gilt Patek Philippe signature create a watch of incredible equilibrium and appeal. Fresh to the market, the ultra-rarity of this reference along with the prestigious Hausmann & Co signature make the present watch a must have in any collection.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2577 “Hausmann & Co”
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127.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold dual time wristwatch with additional adjustable jumping hour hand
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1961
Reference No.
2597
Movement No.
729’428
Case No.
310’503
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-400 HS, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold pin buckle stamped PPCo
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-150,000 $106,000-159,000 €85,700-129,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1961 and its subsequent sale on October 14, 1965, further accompanied by Patek Philippe leather pouch. Literature A similar reference 2597 in 18 karat yellow gold is featured in Patek Philippe Wristwatches by Martin Huber and Alan Banbery, second edition, pp. 238-239. The reference is additionally discussed and pictured in Nicholas Foulkes’ Patek Philippe: The Authorized Biography, pp. 243-246.
In 1952, the frst jetliner, a de Havilland Comet, made its inaugural voyage from London to Johannesburg, and thus began the Jet Age of air travel. It wasn't until later in the 1950s when travel by jetliner became more regulated and improved
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operationally, that a real culture developed amongst those who could aford to fy across the world at a whim. The stewardesses and pilots were glamorous and attractive, caviar and roast pheasant were served to travelers and icons were born and made by the photographs and flms that captured this lifestyle. Patek Philippe's similarly iconic reference 2597 was also born during this era, created as a direct response to this new age of travel. An easy way to keep track of time across multiple time zones, Patek Philippe used the ingenious designs of Louis Cottier in his development of the world time watch and asked him to engineer what would become the 2597, made in two versions. The frst series featured an independently adjustable hour hand whereas the second, like the present watch introduced in 1962, included an additional hour hand. One would simply press the pushers at 8 o'clock and 10 o'clock to quickly adjust the hour without changing the time through the crown. Patek Philippe patented this system in 1959, with Swiss Patent 340191 for a "Time Zone Watch". The cases of reference 2597 were produced by Antoine Gerlach, one of the frms specializing in making cases for Patek Philippe. The current example in yellow gold dates to 1961 and in our opinion, has never been polished. The case has beautifully oxidized over the intervening years, with few signs of careful wear over its lifetime. The raised, hard enamel print is perfectly intact and the factory, brushed fnished to the caseback remains crisp, making this a superb example of one of the world's most sought afer travel watches of the mid 20th century.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2597 “Three Hand Travel Time”
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128.
An extremely fne, rare and important yellow gold triple calendar wristwatch with star-set numerals, moonphases and bracelet
Fully infused with Rolex’s genetic codes with its Oyster case, inhouse automatic movement and Jubilee bracelet, the reference 6062 further features a complication only seen in another reference: a triple calendar and moonphase display. The other model, reference 8171 had a diferent case with snap on back. The above elements merged together result in a certain cool debonaire elegance. Launched in 1950, and produced for only a handful of years, this reference was available in stainless steel, yellow and pink gold, and ofered with diferent dial variations. The faceted star dial, as seen on the present watch, is one of the most rare and sought afer, and enhances its overall appeal. Rolex considered the model a top-of-the-line timepiece, with an in-house automatic movement, and upgraded with a full calendar and moonphase indication. Collectors were so taken with the model they nicknamed it “Stelline”, Italian for “small star”.
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ROLEX Ref. 6062 “Stelline”
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128.
An extremely fne, rare and important yellow gold triple calendar wristwatch with star-set numerals, moonphases and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1952
Reference No.
6062
Movement No.
10367 and N32528
Case No.
916’348
Model Name
“Stelline”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 9 ¾’’, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped 4 52
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Provenance Lot 350, Christie’s Geneva, Important Pocketwatches and Wristwatches, Monday, 15. November 2004 (acquired by the current owner at this auction) Estimate CHF 400,000-800,000 O $423,000-847,000 €343,000-686,000 Accessories Further accompanied by leather strap and 18K yellow gold Rolex buckle
When introduced, the 6062 was groundbreaking, as it was the frst automatic watch with triple calendar and moonphase indication housed in a water-resistant case. The present yellow gold reference 6062 has been part of an important private collection for the past 14 years. Lovingly taken care of during this period it remains in excellent condition. The case is strong, the numerals on the outer track are inky blue, and the day and date apertures are sharp and angular, demonstrating the originality of the dial. In fact the present yellow gold reference 6062 is in our opinion one of the best preserved and most original examples of a reference 6062 in this metal to have ever been seen or ofered publicly. This reference 6062 further comes with its original 18-karat yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet adding inimitable panache to the model. The present example, in its original, unrestored state of preservation, is a wonderful addition to any collection of distinction. And, indeed, an opportunity that the most demanding and educated collectors of vintage wristwatches should not miss.
Literature For another example of a yellow gold reference 6062 with star dial, please see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, p. 89.
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ROLEX Ref. 6062 “Stelline”
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129.
A fne and rare yellow gold automatic wristwatch with black glossy dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1956
Reference No.
2584
Movement No.
764’047
Case No.
2’600’113
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 12-600, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold PPCo pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1956 and its subsequent sale on March 5, 1958 and Patek Philippe ftted box
A watch of incredible suave charisma the present Patek Philippe reference 2584 in yellow gold impresses with its overall superb condition with full case, subtly facetted lugs, crisp hallmark on the lug and striking glossy black dial. Reference 2584 was produced for only a short period, making it a rare model amongst Patek Philippe Calatravas. In fact only 49 reference 2584 are known of which the present model is the second one with black dial to appear on the market. This model is powered by the now iconic automatic Patek Philippe caliber 12-600, considered by the cognoscenti as being the most beautiful vintage automatic wristwatch movement ever designed. It is not only fnished to the highest degree as attested by the Geneva seal but it also features a Gyromax balance and an 18k gold guilloche rotor. Furthermore, the reference 2584 features an ingenious snap on back with raised borders ftting snugly into the case and thus increasing the water resistance. Fresh to the market, its superb condition, its striking combination of yellow gold case and black dial combined with its ultimate rarity make the present reference 2584 a superb addition to any connoisseurs’ collection.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2584 “Black Dial”
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130.
A rare and attractive yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, leap year indicator, original certifcate and ftted presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1985
Reference No.
3450
Movement No.
1’119’773
Case No.
2’808’550
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460QB, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 $159,000-265,000 €129,000-214,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated April 9, 1985, Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with opaline dial and applied yellow gold indexes in 1985 and its subsequent sale on April 9, 1985, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched in 1981, reference 3450 was the successor of reference 3448 - Patek Philippe’s very frst automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch. While physically similar to reference 3448, it most notably features a leap year indicator on the dial. In addition, its case back is slightly smaller and is ftted with a “tongue”, enabling it to be easily removed by the wearer. The present watch, manufactured in 1985, is among the very last generation of reference 3450s ever made before the introduction of reference 3940. While the frst generation examples were ftted with a “red dot” to indicate the fourth leap year, second generation examples displayed Roman numerals I, II, III and IV, like the present model. This example is previously unknown and fresh to the auction market. Having been carefully preserved within the same collection for over 25 years, it benefts from the presence of its Certifcate of Origin, stating the watch was retailed at the Patek Philippe salon in Geneva. Furthermore it retains its original ftted presentation box. Preserved extremely well, it displays two hallmarks punched on the caseband, and sharp fnishes on the side of the case. Patek Philippe produced very limited quantities of reference 3450, typically casing the model in yellow gold. To date, scholars estimate that Patek Philippe produced only 237 examples in total. As such, fresh gems hardly ever appear at auction. When they do, it’s a momentous occasion, allowing the horological community to celebrate another discovery.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3450
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131.
A fne and attractive limited edition white gold chronograph wristwatch with multi-scale dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2016
Reference No.
5975G
Movement No.
5’906’795
Case No.
6’041’733
Model Name
“Multi-Scale Chronograph”
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-520, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold special 175th Anniversary
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 40,000-70,000 ∑ $42,300-74,100 €34,300-60,000 Accessories Accompanied by special 175th Anniversary Patek Philippe ftted box, Certifcate of Origin indicating sale of the present watch on June 28, 2016, limited edition certifcate, commemoration medal, leather pouch and product literature.
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Limited to only 400 pieces and frst released in 2014 as part of the 175th Anniversary Collection, the reference 5975G features Patek Philippe’s highly regarded in-house automatic caliber CH28-520, a column-wheel chronograph with vertical clutch. This innovative movement allows the chronograph function to operate at all times with no efect on accuracy, as found in the brand’s other contemporary references including the 5980, 5990, and 5960. Instead of the typical counters to totalize the minutes, hours, and seconds, the 5975 has three beautifully executed scales that permit instantaneous measurements: a telemeter to measure distance, a pulsometer to measure heartrate, and a tachymeter to calculate speed. Each hour marker is in the ‘obus’ form - ‘obus’ from the French word for artillery shell - adding further vintage elegance to the classically designed dial. Contrasted with the lustrous white gold case, the silvered opaline dial has an enamel-like efect, and the charismatic, stepped Art Deco-style lugs are another pleasing homage to the past. This watch harkens to an era where a man or woman might be called upon to wield any industrial capacity they might possess, with accuracy and panache. Ofered in pristine, unworn condition, this wristwatch is bound to delight the lover of all things refned and elegant.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5975G “Multi-Scale Chronograph”
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132.
A fne and rare white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, additional case back, original certifcate and ftted presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2006
Reference No.
5970G
Movement No.
3’048’446
Case No.
4’382’791
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-130,000 ∑ $84,700-138,000 €68,600-111,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated 10 December 2006, additional case back, setting pin, leather wallet, product literature, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
The perpetual calendar chronograph has become somewhat of a Patek Philippe signature model and a complication they have had in their catalogue continuously since 1941 and the launch of the reference 1518. The present reference 5970 is a worthy heir to Patek Phillipe’s iconic and highly coveted perpetual calendar chronographs preceding it, may it be the 1518, 2499 and the more modern 3970. Manufactured from 2004 to 2011, reference 5970 was Patek Philippe’s very last perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch series to use a Lemania 2310 based movement. With the introduction of successor reference 5270, Patek Philippe used its own in-house movement. The generous 40mm. case and facetted lugs defnitely set this model in the 21st century. Upon launch this model became an instant success and since its discontinuation, it has only increased in popularity and collectability. The present 5970 is superbly versatile, whilst complicated the white gold case and monochromatic silver dial give the watch a zen like serene appearance. Complete with ftted box, second caseback and original certifcate the present 5970 is in excellent condition and worn with great care by its previous owner.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5970G
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133.
A very fne and extremely unusual white and yellow gold automatic astronomical wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Ulysse Nardin
Year
Circa 1990
Reference No.
910-22
Movement No.
91.4.002
Case No.
002
Model Name
Astrolabium Galileo Galilei
Material
18K white gold, yellow gold crown
Calibre
Automatic, cal. UN-97, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Ulysse Nardin integrated bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700
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The Astrolabium Galileo Galilei is one of the three models which make up the “Trilogy of Time” series by Ulysse Nardin. A remarkable watchmaking project, the Trilogy had as a goal to develop extremely intricate astronomical pieces targeted to a highly educated audience. It was conceived in the early 1980s when Rolf Schnyder - who had bought Ulysse Nardin - was struck with fascination at an early astronomical clock. A meeting with watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin followed, and Oechslin was tasked with shrinking the astronomical clock to wrist size. The result was the frst Trilogy of Time wristwatch: the Astrolabium. In fact, this was one of the frst line of watches to reinterpret the wristwatch more as a living sculpture and object of design, rather than a tool to tell time. The Astrolabium was launched in 1985, featuring a plethora of astronomical indications such as sunrise/set moonrise/set, moon phases, eclipses (both solar and lunar), the star chart, indeed all information usually found in an astrolabe. The second watch of the series was the Planetarium Copernicus - launched in 1988 - featuring an heliocentric view of the solar system up to and including Saturn; fnally, the Tellurium Johannes Kepler focuses on earth and the position relative to it of sun and moon.
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ULYSSE NARDIN Ref. 910-22 Astrolabium Galileo Galilei
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The Independents Atelier
In a time of mass market so called luxury, standardization and products designed and conceived by marketing departments we wanted to shed the light on men and women whose creations are infused with their the vision and passion. As a result, the watches presented in these pages speak directly of their creator’s individuality. Men and women who do not make watches based on marketing and commercial criteria but on their perception of watchmaking, instincts and personal history. The watches ofered this season are as diferent as the watchmakers who made them. On the one hand we have the futuristic and provocative design of the Urwerk UR- 110 and on the other, the delicate elegant lines of Ludovic Ballouard’s Upside Down. We ofer one of De Bethune’s earliest and rarest models, the DB12 that set out the blueprints of what this highly innovative brand was to become and fnally a wide selection of pieces from F.P. Journe including his iconic Chronomètre à Resonance and Tourbillon Souverain.
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As you can tell the watchmakers included in this section are very diferent men. But what Denis Flageollet of De Bethune, Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, Ludovic Ballouard and François Paul Journe have in common is that they are all extremely talented watchmakers who started their careers restoring some of horology’s greatest and most signifcant timepieces before taking their expertise and knowledge of horological history to create truly unique watches, that in their own individual manner set new rules. Because they are made by hand according to traditional techniques, these watches are extremely rare and few collectors can pretend to know what it is like to wear them. This is why the sale of these pieces presents a fantastic opportunity to obtain a watch from one of our generation’s greatest living watchmakers.
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Denis Flageollet
Ludovic Ballouard
Franรงois-Paul Journe
Martin Frei
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Felix Baumgartner
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134.
F. P. JOURNE – A very rare limited edition stainless steel wristwatch with pink gold movement and power reserve
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2015
Case No.
No. 7/38
Model Name
Chronomètre Souverain
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1304, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum F. P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 ∑ $15,900-26,500 €12,900-21,400
The present watch represents a very rare opportunity to own a limited edition F. P. Journe, which was originally sold as part of a collection of fve stainless steel timepieces. Released in 2015, the limited edition of 38 complete sets commemorated the end of the manufacturer’s 38mm diameter case production. When F. P. Journe presented his frst wristwatches in 1999, the 38mm case was considered oversized during an era when most brands produced smaller timepieces with 34mm to 36mm sized cases. Today, as tastes have changed, cases measuring 40mm to 42mm in diameter have become the new norm.
Each limited edition set was comprised of fve timepieces including: Tourbillon Souverain, Chronomètre à Résonance, Octa Automatique, Octa Calendrier Automatique and like the present example the Chronomètre Souverain. All of these models, with the exception of the Chronomètre Souverain, were discontinued and each represented the only version of these models made in stainless steel. Additionally, the pieces featured a gold guilloché dial, patinated in a bronze hue and pink gold movement. Among them, the Chronomètre Souverain was the most minimalistic, with an outer hour ring, of-set subsidiary seconds dial and 56-hour power reserve, which measured hours since last wound, opposed to the typical hours lef on reserve. The prestigious, 18-karat rose gold movement borrowed a design element from marine chronometry using two mainspring barrels. In excellent unpolished condition, the present watch is elegant, contemporary, and exceptionally rare, appealing to collectors of independent modern horological artisans.
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135.
F. P. JOURNE – A large and very attractive platinum wristwatch with pink gold movement, power reserve, certifcate of authenticity and box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
Circa 2006
Case No.
CS-138
Model Name
Chronomètre Souverain
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1304, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 ∑ $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe ftted box, Certifcate of Authenticity, user manual, service papers dated December 1st, 2017 and polishing cloth
With the collection “Souveraine”, François Paul Journe signed his most recognizable collection and the frst to ofer a central time display. Ofered in several variations, the principle objective of these timepieces, as the name of the collection implies, is chronometric precision. Even though its design is a tribute to traditional chronometers, it has been implemented in a subtly contemporary manner with its vibrant guilloché dial and power reserve and seconds indications placed in an original manner at 3 o’clock and 7/8 o’clock respectively.
The beauty of this watch is not only on the dial side but by turning it over one can only be dazzled by its superb hand fnished movement that presents the extreme rare particularity of being in solid 18 karat rose gold. Contemporary, elegant yet very classic, this timepiece is the perfect match between the genius of its creator and the elegance of a timeless design, the present lot will appeal to the collector of independent modern horological artisans.
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136.
A fne and rare limited edition platinum dual time wristwatch with double escapement
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2001
Case No.
31/99 - 01R
Model Name
Chronomètre à Resonance
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1499, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum pin buckle signed F.P. Journe
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 ∑ $31,800-52,900 €25,700-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by F.P Journe Certifcate of Authenticity.
François-Paul Journe’s Resonance has become, since its inception in 2000, one of contemporary horology’s most iconic pieces. It was the world’s frst wristwatch to use the resonance phenomenon. The movement is composed of two independent balances, alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”. When in motion, the balances create the resonance efect and beat in opposition, naturally evening out each other’s discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy.
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Inspired by the work of the great 18th century watchmaker Antide Janvier, Journe took up the challenge in 1983 to frst create a pocket-watch using the resonance phenomenon and followed it with a wristwatch 17 years later. Not only a wonderful tribute to technical watchmaking, the Chronomètre à Resonance is also an extremely useful dual time watch. The present example, one among a 99 piece limited edition series, is signifcant and diferent in many ways compared to a regular production model. The case is platinum and the dial and movement are coated in ruthenium giving the watch an amazing post-modern stealth feel. Even more interesting to note is that from 2000 to 2005, the frst generation Chronomètre A Resonance featured rhodium plated brass movements and a 38mm case. The second generation models had a 40mm case with a gold movement. The present model features a brass movement and 40mm case. This series is the only Resonance model from F.P Journe to feature the present movement and case combination, making it even more singular. Preserved in overall excellent condition, the present limited edition Chronomètre à Resonance is not only achingly attractive but is a testimony to the creative talent of F.P. Journe.
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F. P. JOURNE Chronomètre à Resonance
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137.
A very fne and rare platinum tourbillon wristwatch with constant force remontoir, power reserve and dead beat seconds
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2007
Case No.
414TN
Model Name
Tourbillon Souverain
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1403, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-90,000 ∑ $63,500-95,300 €51,400-77,200 Accessories Accompanied by ftted box, Certifcate of Authenticity, instruction booklet and polishing cloth
Invenit et Fecit - invented and made - is the motto of F.P. Journe, as each F.P. Journe wristwatch is handcrafed to the highest standards, using top-grade fnishing and materials, and above all, an original sense of creativity and innovation. In a New York Times article from 2016, François-Paul Journe states that he derives his inspiration from within, given his immense knowledge of the history of watchmaking. He states, “I create a piece because I want it, I dream it. I make it like it was a new child.”
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The Tourbillon Souverain Remontoire d’Egalité avec Seconde Morte is Journe’s most recent tourbillon wristwatch. In fact, the frst F.P. Journe wristwatch was a tourbillon, executed in 1991 and known fttingly as “Tourbillon No. 1.” When the Tourbillon Souverain was frst released commercially in 1999, it was the frst wristwatch to combine a remontoire and a tourbillon; the remontoire, serving as a constant force device, resulted in greater accuracy and amplitude for the tourbillon-equipped escapement. This successor model added to the remontoire a “seconde morte”, or deadbeat seconds, a mesmerizing complication frst implemented in the mid-seventeenth century, but not used in wristwatches until the mid-twentieth century. The seconds hand will completely stop as the escapement continues to beat, not moving until one second has elapsed - at which point it will advance to indicate the next second . This seems like a simple feature, but requires a complex and precise mechanism to reliably stop and restart the seconds hand so that it does not move at the same rate as the vibration of the balance wheel. In virtually untouched condition, and retaining its original accessories, this Tourbillon Souverain is ftted with a stunning white gold dial housed in a platinum case with the smaller dials indicating the hours, the minutes and the seconds rendered in silver guilloché. Inside the dial’s tourbillon aperture, you can see the delicate perlage on the solid 18 karat rose gold movement - a luxurious feature of many of Journe’s most sought afer timepieces. Perfectly balanced at 40mm, this is a contemporary horological masterpiece deriving its beauty and accuracy from the best elements of the past and the present.
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F. P. JOURNE Tourbillon Souverain
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138.
A unique, attractive and unusual jump hour platinum wristwatch with blue mother of pearl dial
Manufacturer
Ludovic Ballouard
Year
2015
Movement No.
LB 48.2
Case No.
18B
Model Name
Upside Down
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. B01, 51 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum pin buckle signed LB.
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 ∑ $21,200-42,300 €17,100-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by Ludovic Ballouard Certifcat de Garantie, letter stating the watch is a unique piece and a ftted box.
Afer having worked with some of the greatest crafsmen on some of the most complicated modern timepieces and afer a seven year stint at F.P. Journe, Ludovic Ballouard decided to tread his own path by launching his eponymous brand in 2009.
This surprising and incredibly avant garde wristwatch is in fact a jump hour featuring a totally novel hour indication, which is perfectly described by the watch’s name: Upside Down. The 12 numerals are classically displayed on the dial but are placed on twelve rotating discs. When the minute hand precisely reaches the 12 o'clock position, the past hour number instantaneously turns 180 degrees upside down. Simultaneously the new hour turns right side up. This disc also reveals a white dot beneath, only when turned right side up, as to make it easier for the wearer to quickly fnd the correct hour. The rotation of these two tiny hour disks is faster than the eye can follow and by using Maltese crosses to control the rotation mechanisms, time-keeping precision is not afected. Technically, the easier route would have been to place the Upside Down mechanism underneath the dial; however, Ludovic Ballouard believed that the owner would appreciate seeing the complexity of the complication and watching the discs rotate, so he placed the mechanism on the back. No easy task as it necessitated drilling 12 minute holes through the movement plate for the 12 tiny pinions that control the hour discs.
His original idea, that he had been toying with for some time, was to ofer a timepiece, apparently simple yet technically complex with an entertaining and alternative time indication.
This Upside Down model, in mint unworn condition, is the only one ftted with a mother of pearl dial. The latter’s gorgeous blue sheen going from light baby blue to dark marine and all shades in between giving the watch an incredibly fresh and enticing look.
At frst glance Ludovic Ballouard’s Upside Down can seem a lovely elegant dress watch with a touch of famboyance thanks to its blue mother of pearl dial. But this frst impression is deceptive. Look closer and you will notice that the watch is lacking an hour hand and all numerals but one are upside down!
The present watch from one of contemporary horology’s most respected crafsmen is an ode to elegance and sophistication… with a twist.
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LUDOVIC BALLOUARD Upside Down
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139.
A very rare and attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with big date and month indication
Manufacturer
De Bethune
Year
Circa 2003
Reference No.
DB12RT
Case No.
008
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. Venus 175, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold De Bethune pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,900-26,500 €12,900-21,400 Accessories Accompanied by De Bethune ftted box, Certifcate of Authenticity and instruction booklet
De Bethune holds a special place not only in the hearts of collectors but also in the history of contemporary independent brands.
The brainchild of Davide Zanetta, a collector of vintage timepieces and art and Denis Flageollet, a genius watchmaker who started his career restoring vintage timepieces and developing über complicated movements for others, De Bethune was created in 2002 and in just over 15 years they have developed over 30 inhouse movements and are at the origin of a cavalcade of extraordinary technical inventions. The present DB12 chronograph with big date and month indication is part of the brand’s original creations where one can recognize the design elements that can be found in De Bethune models today such as the bullet shaped lugs and the special “feuille” hands. The DB12 was in production between 2003 and 2007. Only 12 examples were made in pink gold and open caseback like the present lot. The movement giving life to this gem of horological design and engineering is the Venus 175 modifed as to feature a big date and month indication. Part of the highly coveted and collectable « founding collection» this DB12 eloquently embodies the “no compromise” philosophy of De Bethune and is a potent mix of bombastic design and complex movement that is a must have in the collection of the afcionado of contemporary independent horology. Please note that De Bethune kindly ofers a complementary servicing of this watch to the new owner.
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DE BETHUNE DB12RT
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140.
A very fne, rare and unusual limited edition pink gold and PVD-treated titanium automatic wristwatch with satellite time display, day/night indication and oil change indication, worn by Robert Downey Jr. in Spiderman: Homecoming
Some watches will forever be remembered for their cameos on the silver screen. The Rolex Submariner is unmistakably known as James Bond’s watch. The Heuer Monaco remains associated with Steve McQueen and the flm Le Mans to this day. Even the unusual Seiko chronograph worn by Sigourney Weaver in Aliens will go down as a movie icon. Last year, another extraordinary and rare watch was seen by millions of viewers for the frst time following its big screen debut. The Urwerk UR-110RG worn by Robert Downey Jr. in Spiderman: Homecoming, wasn’t just part of the actor’s wardrobe, it was one the many gadgets used throughout the flm by his characters, Tony Stark and Iron Man . A fan of Urwerk himself, Downey Jr. personally identifed the UR-110RG as a perfect ft for the genius billionaire-turned-superhero, but the watch almost never made it to the set. Launched seven years ago, the UR-110 was an instant hit with watch enthusiasts. It presented a brilliant new take on the wandering hours complication, packaged inside a asymmetrical watch made in titanium. Here was a little-known watchmaker with just a few models in its collection, boldly introducing another avant-garde design inspired by space travel and science fction – making its indelible mark in the Swiss watchmaking industry. Little did they know one of the most famous names in Hollywood was a patron of theirs. A self-confessed watch enthusiast, Robert Downey Jr. has a noteworthy collection which he has shared publically in the past, and his passion for mechanical watches is now seeping into his movie projects.
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URWERK Proceeds to go to NGO Manusodany
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140.
A very fne, rare and unusual limited edition pink gold and PVD-treated titanium automatic wristwatch with satellite time display, day/night indication and oil change indication, worn by Robert Downey Jr. in Spiderman: Homecoming
Manufacturer
Urwerk
Year
Circa 2013
Reference No.
UR-110 PG
Case No.
53/55
Model Name
Torpedo
Material
18K pink gold and PVD-treated titanium
Calibre
Automatic, cal. UR 9.01, 46 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Aligator
Clasp/Buckle
Urwerk PVD-treated titanium double deployant clasp
Dimensions
46mm Width, 50mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 ∑ $52,900-106,000 €42,900-85,700 Accessories Accompanied by Urwerk ftted box, warranty card, bag, owner's manual and additional Urwerk black fabric strap.
A few months before flming Spiderman: Homecoming , Downey Jr. asked the flm’s costume department to source a UR-110 in rose gold - the colours of Iron Man of course. A call was placed to source a rose gold version for the duration of the flm shoot but Urwerk originally turned down the studio’s ofer, suspecting it to be a prank call, or perhaps even worse, a project motivated by strictly commercial motivations.
press manager few from Geneva to Pinewood Studios in Los Angeles to hand-deliver a brand new UR-110 RG. Robert Downey Jr. wore the watch throughout the shooting of the flm before returning it to Urwerk. The watch is featured regularly on Tony Stark’s wrist, and in one particular scene, is used as a functional gadget for Iron Man. Once the flm hit theaters, the actor and the watchmaker began discussing the fate of Iron Man ’s watch and eventually decided to give the public an opportunity to acquire the superhero’s watch, in order to help raise funds for Manusodany, a nonproft organization, founded in August 26, 2007 which helps fund development projects in favor of the underprivileged populations in Haiti most notably in the felds of schooling and orphanages. It is important to point out of the present iteration of the UR110 is made even more attractive and collectible by its limited edition and numbered status. As displayed on the back of the case, only 55 such pieces were made, this being number 53 and one of the last ever made. The UR-110 was recently discontinued so this is an unbelievable opportunity for fans of Urwerk.
Their position changed quickly when they heard Downey Jr. had asked for the watch personally. Weeks later, the company’s
© Jimmy Rich
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URWERK UR-110 PG Torpedo “Worn by Robert Downey Jr. in Spiderman: Homecoming”
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141.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE – Lot of four time only stainless steel wristwatches in superb condition
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
1956 and 1958
Reference No.
A & B: E114 C & D: E212-62
Movement No.
A: 1’268’134 B: 1’268’211 C: 1’203’581 D: 1’195’088
Case No.
A: 738’520 B: 738’478 C: 677’951 D: 678’050
Material Calibre
Stainless steel A & B: Manual, cal. P478/C, 17 jewels C & D: Manual, cal. P800/C, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
33.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-9,000 $6,400-9,500 €5,100-7,700 Accessories Each watch is accompanied by Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract from the Archives confrming the production year of the watch.
How ofen do you get the chance to fnd a true and honest New Old Stock watch? Consisting of two identical twin watches, the present lot of four New Old Stock Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces is a true time capsule taking us back more than half a century ago. Never opened nor worn, these watches have been sourced by a collector who had the chance to fnd an unsold stock from a retired watchmaker.
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The simple yet efcient design of the dial is typical for watches of the 50s. One pair only displays four Arabic numerals whereas the other pair displays the even numbers. The models with the even numbers also feature a very interesting and attractive railroad outer track graduated for every 4 minutes and giving the watches a fantastic rhythm and harmony. In stainless steel with applied indexes and numerals, these watches have been waiting a long time to fnd a home and are ready now to enjoy some action!
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142.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE –A very attractive stainless steel triple calendar wristwatch with tear drop lugs
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
1953
Reference No.
2904
Movement No.
533’261
Case No.
434’830
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. P484/1A, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial an movement signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-9,000 $6,400-9,500 €5,100-7,700 Accessories Accompanied by Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract from the Archives confrming production year of the watch in 1953.
Known as the “watchmaker’s watchmaker” Jaeger-LeCoultre is with no doubt one of the greatest watch manufactures. With many groundbreaking innovations over the last century the brand has been able to stand the test of time like no other thanks to its top of the class calibers. The present watch, from the early 1950s is powered by the superb in-house gilt caliber P484/1A beautifully hand decorated. On the dial side, this triple calendar indicates the day and the month via two apertures at 12 o’clock and the date on the outer section of the dial. Its large size for the era and its elegant dial design with red calendar indication is further enhanced by gorgeous teardrop lugs that confer to the watch a timeless design. Presented today in mint condition, this watch has never seen any service and seems to have passed through time without leaving the comfort of a vault. It is time for this sleeping beauty to get some attention!
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143.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE –A rare and attractive chronograph wristwatch with additional worldtime and telemeter bezels and presentation box
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
1969
Reference No.
E 2643
Case No.
296’066
Model Name
“Shark Deep Sea”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel buckle
Dimensions
40.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by two additional LeCoultre bezels, Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1969 and presentation box.
The present model, known as the “Shark Deep Sea”, or “Vogue Chronograph” in Europe, was originally launched in the 1960s. A water-resistant chronograph watch, it had the ability to measure a variety of time-related functions due to its interchangeable bezel. This example was made for the American market, evidenced by the LeCoultre signature on the case, dial and movement. In addition to the diver’s bezel, it still retains both its Telemeter and exceedingly rare World Time bezels. These are proudly displayed inside the original LeCoultre presentation box. Preserved in excellent condition, its hour markers have developed a warm and even patina throughout, matching the hands. The “Stainless Steel” engraving on the case back is sharp and crisp, as is the case number beneath.
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144.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE –A fne and very rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date and alarm
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
1968
Reference No.
E859
Movement No.
1’952’224
Case No.
1’116’869 further stamped 1-68
Model Name
Memovox Polaris
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. K825, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400 Accessories Accompanied by Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1968.
The famed Jaeger-LeCoultre “Memovox” (voice of memory) was introduced to the market in 1950, quickly gaining traction in the market as one of the most desirable and reliable alarm watches. A center disc with an arrow is operated by a second crown at two o’clock. In an era where sports diving was gaining more and more popularity (indeed, advertisements of the era branded the E859 as “pour l’homme d’action” or “for the man of action”), Jaeger-LeCoultre’s response was to meet that demand and create an oversized, automatic waterproof divers’ wristwatch - with an alarm function. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s goal was to ofer both visual (inner bezel) and auditory (alarm) timers for the dive. To do so, the frm created a patented caseback, which optimized the alarm’s sound transmission underwater. The outer case, with its 16 holes, allowed for the alarm tone to be heard and felt on the wrist, while the inner case sealed and protected the movement. The watch featured three crowns, each with the cross hatch pattern characteristic of Super Compressor watches: the frst for time setting, the second for the inner bezel for dive timing, and the third to rotate the inner disc with arrow to set the alarm. Known in the United States as the Polaris, and in the European market as the ‘Skin Diver Memovox’, the reference E859 was made in 1714 total examples between 1965 and 1969, and fnding these precious timepieces in their original and unmolested condition has become increasingly difcult. The present model was made for the European market, as indicated with the full Jaeger-LeCoultre brand name on the dial, whereas the simplifed “LeCoultre” brand was used on dials of models intended for the American market.
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145.
LONGINES – A highly rare and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, black dial and rotating inner bezel
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1958
Reference No.
7042-1
Movement No.
10’343’192
Case No.
90
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 19AS, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Tropic
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Longines pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,700 €6,900-10,300 Accessories Accompanied by Longines Certifcate of Origin and Authenticity confrming sale of the present watch on February 13, 1958 to Longines-Wittnauer, their agent at the time in the USA.
Undoubtedly the creator of some of the most beautiful and coveted vintage chronographs, Longines also has a lesser known history in dive watches of which the present 7042 is a smashing example. In the 1950s certain brands such as Rolex or Blancpain were making dive watches catering to professional divers (whether civilian or military) whereas others such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and Longines were targeting a clientele leaning more towards leisure water sports, who desired the technical prowess of a dive watch allied to an appealing design.
The present reference 7042 from 1958 is one of Longines’ earliest dive watches with inner rotating bezel. Made for only a few short years, the present watch paved the path to the success Longines encountered in dive watches. To guarantee water resistance, Longines contacted case manufacturer Ervin Piquerez who had patented a so called “super compressor” case, whereby the deeper the watch went, the tighter the back sealed against the gasket. Instead of an outer bezel to time dives, Longines opted for a very elegant rotating inner bezel that can be controlled via the crown located at 2 o’clock. Considering its absolutely gorgeous condition, the present reference 7042 has most probably not spent much time fghting the adverse underwater elements, but rather remained safely strapped on a tanned wrist on the wooden deck of a Riva. There are times when a collector should not hesitate when opportunity presents itself, and fnding one of Longines’ rarest vintage timepieces in such appealing condition is a chance that will not present itself ofen.
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146.
LONGINES – A rare and highly attractive stainless steel fyback chronograph wristwatch with silver dial
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1968
Reference No.
6592-6
Movement No.
14’262’250
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 30CH, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Longines pin buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by Longines Certifcate of Origin and Authenticity confrming its sale on November 14, 1969 to Longines-Wittnauer, their agent in the United States at that time. Literature This exact watch is illustrated in Longines Watches, John Goldberger, pp. 272-273.
The reference 6592 is so representative of Longines’ savoirfaire that this exact timepiece, bearing movement number 14’262’250 is prominently featured on pages 272-273 of John Goldberger’s book dedicated to Longines Watches. The delicate curves of the case, the graceful lugs, the impeccable silver dial devoid of any scales and its large
luminous Arabic numerals make the present Longines chronograph a superb example of a minimalist yet powerful design. The famous French author and aviator Antoine de SaintExupery once wrote that “perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing lef to take away” and in this sense the present timepiece has achieved a certain perfection in design. However, this reference 6592-6 is not just a pretty face, but houses one of the 20th century’s most iconic chronograph movements, the 30CH. A follow up of another legendary Longines caliber the 13ZN, the 30CH frst appeared in the mid1940s and like its younger sibling is also a fyback. The movement correctly features the LXW engraving meaning the watch was destined for the American market as confrmed by the Longines Certifcate of Origin and Authenticity indicating the watch was sold in 1968 to Longines-Wittnauer (Longines agent for the USA). Ofered in spectacular condition, the present reference 6592-6 is a must have for any serious collector of vintage chronographs.
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147.
ROLEX – A fne, unusual and very rare yellow gold calendar wristwatch with center seconds, day and date in Arabic, Eastern Arabic numerals, blue dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
1803
Case No.
2’512’X80
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2 66
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400
The Middle East has proven itself to be a source of truly remarkable timepieces. The forid fnancial situation of most Middle-Eastern countries combined with the thirst for fne and unusual pieces shown by some local collectors allowed this market to be the birthplace of some of the most unusual and collectible creations ever devised in watchmaking. The feld of Middle-Eastern timepieces spans from royal requests with signed dials or engraved backs, to enameled pieces featuring royal portraits to custom modifcations of some dial details. The present piece is indeed an example of the former case. Not only the calendar discs are in Arabic, already a very unusual and interesting feature, but the applied gold numerals are featured in Middle-Eastern script.
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148.
ROLEX – A fne and very rare platinum calendar wristwatch with center seconds and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1981
Reference No.
18026
Case No.
6’628’005, inside caseback stamped 18000
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum Rolex President bracelet, maximum length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Rolex concealed deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and slap signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,900-26,500 €12,900-21,400
The Rolex Day-Date was introduced in 1956 as a more exclusive and complicated alternative to the Datejust (which was released 10 years before, in 1945). In order to highlight the exclusivity of the model, it was ofered only in gold or platinum. The model immediately positioned itself at the top of Rolex oferings and soon became one of the best sellers of the brand, and it is now one of the models most recognizable and associated with the brand.
In 1977 the Day-Date was given an important upgrade: the new caliber 3055 with quick date setting was introduced, along with a new 5-digit reference system. Indeed, reference 18026 is a representative of this innovative line. The full ofer comprised 4 models in yellow gold (with either bark-fnished, diamond-set, blank or ribbed bezel) 3 in white gold (with barkfnished, diamond-set, or ribbed bezel) and two rare versions in platinum: ref. 18046, with diamond-set bezel, and the present ref. 18026. An undisputed champion of understatement, only the weight of the piece gives away the importance and rarity of this model. The unequivocal collectability and appeal of this iconic watch go alongside its highly elegant, discreet and wearable looks.
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149.
A rare and attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with wood dial and center seconds, made for the Sultanate of Oman
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1979
Reference No.
18038
Movement No.
0’161’738
Case No.
5’729’435
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold and wood
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700
The present watch is a beautiful example featuring a briar root wood dial and a “Khanjar” emblem at 6 o’clock. During the 1970s, His Majesty Qaboos bin Said Al Said, the Sultan of Oman, commissioned many watch manufacturers to create custom order pieces, many of which displayed the “Qaboos” or a “Khanjar” symbol. Rolex is best known for creating such special pieces. The combination of the Khanjar symbol contrasting against the fecks of brown wood is particularly stunning. The crisp and sharp condition of this watch is especially noteworthy. Featuring bold and full proportions, the top of the lugs are very sharp. The bottom of the lugs display deep hallmarks. Furthermore, the original Rolex sticker is present on the caseback, showing how little if any intervention this watch has seen throughout its lifespan.
Literature A similar example is illustrated in Day-Date The Presidential Rolex by Pucci Papaleo, p. 280.
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ROLEX Ref. 18038 Day-Date “Wood Dial with Khanjar”
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150.
A rare and unusual pink gold wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial depicting the Arabian peninsula
Manufacturer
Universal
Year
Circa 1952
Reference No.
10232 1
Case No.
1’629’306
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 138 SS, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case and dial signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,700 €6,900-10,300
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With its royal provenance, this fascinating, time-only Universal Genève, cased in pink gold, features partial hour indicators in Arabic script, with the inscriptions ‘Saoud Ibn Abdul Aziz’, (the King of Saudi Arabia from 1953 to 1964) at twelve o’clock and ‘Jezira el Arabia’ at six o’clock (Jezira meaning ‘island’ in Arabic). Likely presented as a gif from the King, it was part of a limited release of cloisonné enamel Universal Genève wristwatches depicting the Arabic peninsula and celebrating the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. The enamel scene is beautiful and brightly colored; the Arabian peninsula rendered in a deep emerald polychrome enamel contrasting with the realistic turquoise blue waters of the surrounding Red Sea, Arabian Sea, Persian Gulf and Gulf of Aden. The hour markers and celebratory inscriptions are set on a pink gold ring surrounding the enamel scene. Two small enamel motifs represent Saudi Arabia; one, the palm tree and crossed swords that is the national emblem of Saudi Arabia adopted in 1950, and the other a mosque, most likely one of the three oldest and most historically important mosques located in Medina.
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UNIVERSAL Ref. 102321 “Arabian Peninsula”
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Patek Philippe References 600/1 and 2481 In Celebration of King Saud bin Abdulaziz Al Saud
Watches and wristwatches are one of the most classic gifs in Western society, ofen given on the most special moments in one’s life: graduations, weddings or professional milestones to name a few. A similar habit has developed during the past century among Middle-Eastern royalties where watches are ofen gifed to ofcers, dignitaries, diplomats or members of staf as a token of friendship or appreciation of the monarch.
The fact that the company granted the request can be explained not only by the political importance of the situation celebrated but also by considering King Saud bin Abdulaziz Al Saud as a symbol of his nation. This series of timepieces is not only an homage to an important sovereign but also and foremost a celebration of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia through the icon of its ruler.
In 1953, Patek Philippe's retailer in Saudi Arabia - Red Sea Trading - placed an order which expands and improves on this concept: Patek Philippe was asked to produce a series of pocketwatches ref. 600/1 and wristwatches ref. 2481 bearing a special enamel dial with ruby indexes and featuring the portrait of King Saud bin Abdulaziz Al Saud of Saudi Arabia in commemoration of his accession to the throne in 1953. The watches were delivered over the course of the following years.
Compounding to this remarkable history the inefable quality of the enamel dials, the rarity of gem-set Patek Philippe pieces of the time and the overall exceptional condition of both pieces the following lots 151 and 152 are an incredible opportunity not to be missed by the collector of rare and important vintage timepieces.
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151.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A fne and very rare pink gold open face pocketwatch with polychrome enamel dial made in celebration of King Saud bin Abdulaziz Al Saud
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1956
Reference No.
600/1
Movement No.
931’343
Case No.
694’638
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 17-170, 18 jewels
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,900-26,500 €12,900-21,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1956 and its subsequent sale on October 8, 1956.
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152.
A very fne and rare pink gold and ruby-set wristwatch with center seconds, polychrome enamel dial and bracelet, made in homage of King Saud bin Abdulaziz Al Saud
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1955
Reference No.
2481
Movement No.
704’979
Case No.
689’415
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27SC, 18 jewels, stamped twice
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Patek Philippe bracelet stamped 4.53,
with the Geneva Seal max length 195mm Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe folding clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed Patek
also signed Gay Frères
Philippe, clasp further signed Gay Frѐres Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $31,800-52,900 €25,700-42,900 Accessories With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1955 with an enamel dial and painted portrait of the King of Saudi Arabia and its subsequent sale on June 29, 1956.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2481 “Homage to King Saud bin Abdulaziz Al Saud”
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153.
A fne and rare white gold wristwatch with date and bracelet made for the Sultanate of Oman
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
circa 1974
Reference No.
1601
Movement No.
D129’730
Case No.
4’007’311
Model Name
Datejust
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, reference 6311, end links stamped 53, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex folding deployant clasp
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700
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Rolex introduced the Datejust model in 1945 to commemorate the brand’s 40th anniversary. This model that may now seem to be very classical was actually a real breakthrough in watchmaking, as it was the very frst waterproof automatic wristwatch with a date that would jump at midnight. The present example from the mid-70s is a rare model as it is made in white gold, and even more interesting is the red signature of his Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Saided of Oman, an important collector in his own right. When found anywhere on a watch, this signature signifes an important object of royal provenance. Such watches were made on commission for the Sultan of Oman, to be ofered as gifs to foreign dignitaries and loyal staf. Combining the extremely sought afer Qaboos signature and a precious yet discreet metal make this watch a very good addition to any collection: easy to wear but with a twist.
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ROLEX Ref. 1601 Datejust “Qaboos”
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154.
An important and extremely rare white gold wristwatch with center seconds, roulette date, honeycomb dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1959
Reference No.
6605
Movement No.
N711’492
Case No.
449’841
Model Name
Datejust
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1065, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet,
Among the rarest Datejust models, we can defnitely count the present 6605. Made only for three years between 1956 and 1959 - together with sister reference 6604, with polished bezel - these two references are furthermore the only ones to feature caliber 1065: earlier reference 6305 mounts cal. A.296, and in 1959 the new calibres 1575 and 1565 will appear. The present reference can thus be considered among the most interesting Datejust variations both for technical and aesthetic reasons.
max length 190mm Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex “Big Logo” deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 ∆ $52,900-106,000 €42,900-85,700
The Datejust model is one of the most appreciated designs ever conceived by Rolex. The unmistakable aesthetics of the Oyster case classify it even to the less trained eye as indisputably “Rolex”. The practicality of a waterproof case and date indication makes it the ideal everyday watch. The amount of variations of case material, dial styles, bracelets and sizes developed over the years ensure that virtually anyone can fnd a Datejust suitable to his or her taste. It truly can be considered one of the cornerstone of both Rolex’s current collection, and also of the historical evolution of the brand. The Datejust was presented in 1945 for the frm’s 40th anniversary and has since then remained in the Rolex catalogue.
This specifc example, however, pushes the boundary of rarity and collectability much further, as it is one of the incredibly scarce white gold reference 6605s. A true unicorn, only a handful of examples have appeared on the market thus far. Furthermore, the present piece is distinguished by its superior condition, the case fully retaining its proportions and satin factory fnish. Most notably, the ribbed bezel shows extremely sharp edges to the facets, an unmistakable sign that the timepiece has never been subject to careless polishing. The dial as well is spectacular, the luminous material evenly aged, the graphics unmarred and the honeycomb background practically fawless. An interesting twist gives even more vibrancy to the dial: the "roulette" style date which is displayed in black numerals for odd dates and red numerals for even dates. A fnal touch is given by the white gold jubilee bracelet: while already remarkably unusual in white gold, it furthermore comes with a very rare Made in Japan Rolex bracelet: the hallmark with a distinguishable “WG” is the Japanese hallmark for white gold, the top part - in this case faded - would read “K18”. The condition and rarity of this superb example makes the present lot a must have for the discerning Rolex collector.
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ROLEX Ref. 6605 Datejust “Black Honeycomb Dial”
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155.
A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1966
Reference No.
6238
Case No.
1’226’499
Model Name
“Pre-Daytona”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm.
Clasp/Buckle
Rolex stainless steel folding deployant
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
clasp stamped 3-70.
Estimate CHF 100,000-150,000 O $106,000-159,000 €85,700-129,000 Literature Similar examples of this reference are illustrated in I Cronograf Rolex La Leggenda, Pucci Papaleo Editore, pp. 278-291, as well as 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, John Goldberger, pp. 128-137 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex pouch.
The Rolex reference 6238 is a turning point and a landmark in the Rolex Chronograph history. It can either be considered the brand’s last classic chronograph or its frst modern one.
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Produced for a short period from the beginning of the 1960s to 1967, it was the last Rolex chronograph to feature a smooth bezel with a graduated tachymeter scale on the dial but also a model that paved the way to the reference 6239. The latter was the frst Cosmograph Daytona ever released by Rolex, with which it shares certain design elements such as the crown, the pushers, case and indexes. Thus the nickname “Pre-Daytona” given by collectors to reference 6238. Interestingly even though it is called the Pre-Daytona, the reference 6238 was produced in parallel to reference 6239. However, while the Cosmograph Daytona always featured a two tone dial with either black with silver subdials or vice versa, the reference 6238 was ofered only with a monochrome dial. These small details make a massive diference for collectors, making the Pre-Daytona a favorite amongst vintage Rolex afcionados and connoisseurs. The matte black, or so-called “grené” fnished dial, is particularly rare, as the majority of this reference was available with a silvered dial. The present dial is part of the second generation grené dials with silver printing. The “T-SWISS-T” found at the dial’s lower edge by 6 o’clock indicates that Tritium was used for the luminous hands and hour markers. The collectability of “Pre-Daytona” models is on the rise, and the overall superbly preserved condition of the present watch along with its ultimate rarity makes it a defnite must have for the discerning collector.
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ROLEX Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”
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156.
BLANCPAIN – A rare and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with revolving bezel, made for the Polish Military
Manufacturer
Blancpain
Year
Circa 1970
Movement No.
619’655
Case No.
207’630
Model Name
Fify Fathoms “Barracuda”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. AS 1902/03, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed, outside caseback engraved with military number MW 375
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900
The Fify Fathoms model is perhaps the most iconic military dive watch in history. Designed by Captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Rifaud at the beginning of the 1950s to respond to the need of the French Navy’s combat swimmers corps, the watch was produced by Blancpain, who’s former CEO Mr Jean-Jacques Fiechter was himself a passionate diver. The model name derives from the watch’s waterproof ability: it can be submerged up to Fify Fathoms, or 91.45 meters underwater.
Since the release of the Fify Fathoms, Blancpain has launched a variety of versions. While the frst models were made for military use, others were issued to the civilian market. The Barracuda model was originally issued to the American, German and Polish military. It is distinguished by its bicolor square indexes, which this model is best known for. The present watch displays a clear hand-engraved “MW”, which indicates the watch was delivered to the Polish navy. This information has also been confrmed by Blancpain. The dial and the case are preserved in excellent condition with the bezel free of any visible cracks. The tritium on the dial and bezel still glows under a black light. This military watch is a real treasure to collector seeking for an issued watch that survived in superb condition.
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157.
OMEGA – A fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter scale and bracelet
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1961
Reference No.
CK 2998-3
Movement No.
17’764’141
Model Name
Speedmaster
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega bracelet, reference 7077/6, endlinks stamped 6
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp, stamped 2.59
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming sale of the present watch to Uruguay and production on August 30, 1961.
The original Speedmaster reference 2915 was in production for only two years until it was replaced in 1959 by the present model, reference 2998. The reference 2998, in turn, only had a production run for approximately three years, through 1962, though models were still being delivered in 1963. Small modifcations (diferent hands, bezels or dials) were made to reference 2998 throughout its production period, each modifcation being defned by the number afer the hyphen in the reference number inscribed on the inner caseback. This particular reference, the 2998-3, difers from its predecessors the 2998-1 and 2998-2 in the composition of the dial and the choice of hands. 2998-1 and 2998-2 feature either a fat or stepped dial, the ‘Speedmaster’ and ‘Omega’ printings are slightly diferent, longer secondary markers on the minute subsidiary dial, and a lollipop chronograph hand. The reference book Moonwatch Only classifes these dials as A4 dials with short markers and round ‘O’, while the present lot is ftted with its original and correct A5-type dial with longer markers and the ‘Swiss Made’ designation printed quite low on the dial. This particular reference features a stepped dial and rare case with straight lugs, all housing the vaunted Lemania-based Omega caliber 321. It furthermore features the rounded ‘O’ in the printed logo, correct long minute markers in the minute counter subdial, applied Omega logo, and its original ‘Dot Over Ninety’ black aluminum bezel insert graduated to 500 units. An Omega steel bracelet reference 7077/6, the frst Speedmaster bracelet with partially expandable links, completes a highly desirable timepiece for the collector.
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158.
An extremely rare and historically interesting stainless steel electromechanical prototype chronograph wristwatch with day and date, delivered to NASA in 1978
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1978
Reference No.
ST 188.0002
Movement No.
38’418’888
Model Name
Prototype Alaska III
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Electromechanical, cal. 9210, 12 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega pin buckle
Dimensions
43mm Width, 44.5mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-20,000 $10,600-21,200 €8,600-17,100 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract of the Archives confrming production on April 3, 1978 and delivery to NASA, further accompanied by photocopy of ATA Carnet detailing delivery of the watch to NASA, Houston, U.S.A on 3.04.1978, photocopy of a letter dated March 31, 1978 requesting the necessary documents to import the watch in the U.S.A. to NASA, and Omega pouch.
Few words can stir the hearts of Omega collectors as much as the legendary space-oriented “Alaska Project” undertaking. However, it would appear that the true history and meaning of “Alaska Project” is relatively blurry to may connoisseurs. In fact, “Alaska” was not just one project but a succession of diferent NASA-related projects, starting with “Alaska I” in 1969 and ending with “Alaska IV” in 1979. The projects - known to only a very selected few within Omega - demanded the highest level of secrecy and consequently were code-named. Complying with OMEGA’s policy to code-name developments of complete watch-heads (instead of the development of movement-only projects) afer the names of either cities, states or countries (such as the “Manhattan” project, with will yield the “Constellation” models) the name “Alaska” was chosen for all future endeavors that would have anything to do with spaceand NASA-related activities.
dial that featured a “radial” layout for its chronograph counters. The second proposal was based on an automatic chronograph with Omega’s caliber 1045. And lastly the present lot: a rather revolutionary approach with a Speedmaster chronograph using electronic technology that employed a tuning fork as regulating organ. This resulted in Caliber 1255, in the guise of a model that became known as the “Speedsonic”, and was delivered to NASA with the reference ST188.0002/999. According to archival information discovered at the vaults of the OMEGA Museum, three prototype pieces were produced and delivered to Houston with the date on the respective invoice indicating April 3, 1978. NASA engineer, Mr. James H. Ragan, the same person who oversaw the 1965 tests which selected Omega as ofcial NASA supplier selected the “Alaska III” version of the radial-dialed Speedmaster “Moonwatch”. One of the reasons that made the mechanical chronograph more suitable than its electronic competitor, was the possible risks involved with the use of batteries in space. The present lot, bearing the movement number 38’418’888 is one of the very three pieces delivered for NASA evaluation and testing and represents a truly unique opportunity to not only own and appreciate an item that is deeply rooted with NASA’s heritage and humankind’s conquest of space, but also an incredible and landmark piece of OMEGA’s watchmaking history.
Around 1976 the “Space Shuttle”, as the re-usable space vehicle project was called, started to become reality, NASA needed to re-evaluate all the equipment it had previously used. To this end, OMEGA embarked on the “Alaska III” project that would lead to the eventual qualifcation of the Space Shuttle chronograph and it included three diferent proposals. One was a re-development of the already qualifed Speedmaster Professional chronograph, only this time using the newer caliber 861 surrounded by a mat-fnished case and a
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OMEGA Ref. ST 188.0002 “Prototype Alaska III”
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159.
A very rare and unusual stainless steel triple calendar wristwatch with moonphases, Persian calendar and numerals
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1955
Reference No.
2486-1
Movement No.
13’386’263
Case No.
17
Model Name
“Cosmic”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 381, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
A stalwart in Omega’s production the triple calendar moonphase model also known as the “Cosmic” came in diferent case sizes and designs. The singularity of the present Omega reference 2486-1 is immediately recognizable thanks to the superb condition of the large 37mm steel case with faceted downturned lugs and “exotic” dial magnifcent in its ethereal hue. The present watch is one of the extremely rare models (regardless of brand) to feature Hindu numerals and even rarer day and month indication in Persian. This is also confrmed by the Omega archives as the watch was delivered to Iran in 1955.
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700
The numerals are silvered and the he ultramarine blue outer scale color that indicates the day is perfectly matching the calendar hand.
Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch on November 24, 1955 and delivery to Iran.
The present watch is charged with an old world suave personality giving us a glimpse into the bygone era of the “mysterious Orient”.
Literature Another example of a Omega Cosmic but with Arabian calendar and moon phases in 14K gold flled case and black dial, is illustrated in Omega Watches by John Goldberger, p. 62.
A close cousin to Rolex’s iconic triple calendar moonphase reference 8171, its overall stunning looks, amazing condition and ultra-rare Persian calendar make this Omega a must have for the collector of rare and exotic timepieces.
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OMEGA Ref. 2486-1 Cosmic “Persian Calendar”
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160.
An attractive, rare, and historically important white gold wristwatch with diamond-set bezel and subsidiary seconds, retailed by Tifany & Co.
So ofen in the careers of great men and women of history, there came a point in time where they were told their talents were not sufcient to realize their dreams. In the case of Elvis Presley, these words came early and ofen – in the halls of his high school, early auditions, in the failure of his earliest acetate albums – as he was told very clearly that not only could he not sing, but also the music that captured his interest had no real value. The end of 1953 saw a dramatic change in attitudes towards Presley’s viability as a singer and performer, and by the end of the decade he was a musical phenomenon who electrifed millions of attendees at his live performances and sold an unprecedented number of records under the stewardship of RCA Records, the record company he signed with in late 1955. From the mid-1950s until his untimely death in 1977 Elvis had an active role in creating the modern American musical landscape and the development of a unique youth culture. Elvis’ importance to the inception of rock and roll, and contemporary music as a whole, cannot be understated. His image has transcended the categories of the music he played and the movies he starred in to become a cornerstone of modern pop culture. In 2010, the National Portrait Gallery in Washington D.C. held an exhibit entitled “One Life: Echoes of Elvis, ” giving scope to the impact of Elvis on American history and culture. In February of 1961, at a charity luncheon and subsequent concert arranged by the record company with the governor of Tennessee and the mayor of Memphis present, RCA Records presented Presley with a plaque commemorating the 75 million records he had sold worldwide. Accompanying this plaque, which remains at Graceland to this day, RCA Records also gifed this Tifany-signed Omega wristwatch to Presley. The 25th of February 1961 was proclaimed ‘Elvis Presley Day’ and the singer was made an Honorary Colonel of the city of Memphis. The concert itself was an immense success, raising $51,612 for various Memphis charities and the Elvis Presley Youth Center in his hometown of Tupelo, Mississippi. With regards to the watch itself, the case back inscription reads: “To Elvis 75 Million Records RCA Victor 12-25-60” Elvis is the second all-time best-selling musician, and the best-selling individual artist behind The Beatles, having sold in excess of 500 million albums. 1960 was a particularly eventful year for Elvis’ popularity, and Christmas of that year marks a peak in visibility and success. Having steadily released content recorded in anticipation of Elvis’ hiatus between 1958 and 1960
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OMEGA “Elvis Presley”
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160.
An attractive, rare, and historically important white gold wristwatch with diamond-set bezel and subsidiary seconds, retailed by Tifany & Co.
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1960
Reference No.
H6582/D96043
Movement No.
15’926’025
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 510, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Omega pin buckle
Dimensions
32.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed, dial further signed Tifany & Co.
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $52,900-106,000 €42,900-85,700 Accessories Accompanied by a Certifcate of Authenticity, Extract from the Archives and a letter from the Founder/CEO of the Elvis Presley Museum, the book ELVIS by Dave Marsh and two vinyl records: “Elvis is back” and “Uncle Green 15 Dryden”.
when he was drafed into the U.S. Army, RCA Records was eager for Elvis to return to the studio. In March and April of 1960, Elvis recorded Elvis is Back! released on April 8th, 1960, and then in October of 1960, Elvis recorded His Hand In Mine, released on November 10th. On December 25th, 1960, Elvis had two well-attended movies in theaters, Flaming Star and G.I. Blues, as well as both the number one single in the United States, “Are You Lonesome Tonight” and the United Kingdom, “It’s Now Or Never.” Research suggests that December 25th
marks the actual date Elvis reached 75 million records, and RCA arranged the laudatory charity luncheon and concert not only to award Elvis for such a signifcant achievement, but also to reestablish Elvis as a performer. Elvis was likely the frst artist, individual or otherwise, to ever reach 75 million records sold. The incredible provenance of this historic timepiece is furthermore confrmed by photos of Presley wearing the watch at the charitable concert that followed the luncheon, as well as certifcates of authenticity from the Elvis Presley Museum. According to a statement made by the owner of the present lot, and part and parcel with Elvis’ modus operandi with his personal watches, the watch was given to the current owner’s uncle afer he had expressed his admiration. Spotting the diamond studded Hamilton the admirer was wearing, Elvis proposed a trade, and they quickly swapped the pieces. Elvis was known to have owned quite an array of watches, and a selection of those were presented to him on particularly signifcant occasions. More than that, however, Elvis was known to give away his watches if someone expressed desire or admiration, such as with the gold Omega Constellation he bequeathed to a fellow musician and former US Army veteran, which sold at auction in 2016. Other watches owned or purportedly owned by Elvis Presley have come to auction in the years since the King’s death, none, however, mark as great a moment in his career. Scholars largely agree the years up to 1958 and Elvis’ induction into the US Army as the peak of Elvis’ career, where his eminence as a musician, actor and pop culture icon converged to reach mass popularity and infuence. Reaching 75 million records in 1960, afer two years in the US Army, robbed of the chance to record and perform, was an incredible feat.. The watch is cased in 18k white gold, housing a manuallywound Omega calibre 510 stamped with the ‘OXG’ import code for the United States, which aligns with the ‘Tifany & Co.’ signature under the Omega signature and applied logo. The bezel is set with forty-four brilliant cut diamonds, accenting slim, elongated hour markers and an elegant silvered ivory dial. Omega confrms the movement for this piece was supplied to their American agent at the time, the Norman Morris Corporation, and manufactured in 1958. The case was made by American case manufacturer Jonell Watch Case Company, Inc., located in Long Island City, New York, which supplied cases for Omega’s American distributors until at least 1965. We are humbled and thrilled to present the current lot that once belonged to the man who simply said, in response to questions regarding his popularity, “All I do is sing and dance a little.”
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OMEGA “Elvis Presley”
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Session two 13 May 2018 6pm Lots 161–285
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161.
HEUER – A very appealing stainless steel chronograph military wristwatch with elongated Arabic numerals and minute/hour bezel, issued to the Kenyan Air Force
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1974
Reference No.
73663
Case No.
201’105
Model Name
Autavia KAF-198
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 7736, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 ∆ $8,500-12,700 €6,900-10,300
The present reference 73663 is one of only two Heuer models, along with reference 741.603, to feature elongated Arabic numerals. Made for the Kenyan Air Force this may have been a special military specifcation for increased legibility in the dark. Produced in very small numbers, it is believed that no more than 250 examples were ever delivered with a small portion that were not issued. All of these models feature orange hands and indexes which in the case of the present watch have pleasingly aged to a light yellow color. If the diference in color is not obvious at frst glance, a loupe reveals a noticeable diference between the paint used on the hands and indexes and the one used for the Arabic numerals. This unusual feature contrasts with the usual simple and easy to read designs used by Heuer for motor sport events and make this watch instantaneously recognizable by the Heuerist!
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162.
HEUER – A very attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial and rotating bezel
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1965
Reference No.
2446
Case No.
83’427
Model Name
Autavia “3rd Execution Transitional”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 72, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Heuer pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 ∆ $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400
Always seeking to increase the readability of their chronographs, the brand created several diferent executions of the dial and hands for this reference. The present watch, from the mid-1960s displays the so-called 3rd execution dial, featuring stainless steel applied indexes with luminous dots on the outer end and straight hands with a luminous insert. But the most important point to note on the present watch is the transitional case. It is believed that no more than 500 watches were produced using this transitional case that features straight lugs with no bevels. The case numbers of these rare watches are within a range going from 82’8xx to 83’4xx which places the present example at the very end of the production. The present watch displays just the right amount of patina and coupled with this specifc case, may well fll in the missing link in a collection devoted to Heuer’s most iconic model.
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163.
UNIVERSAL – A very attractive and rare stainless steel triple calendar chronograph wristwatch with “acqua” blue colored dial, moonphases and tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Universal
Year
1968
Reference No.
881101/04
Case No.
2’685’022
Model Name
Tri-Compax
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 281, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Universal Genève pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by Universal Genève Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1968.
Eric Clapton is not only known for his superb music but also for his exquisite taste in watches and many photos show him wearing a Universal Geneve Tri-Compax with a panda dial. The present Tri-Compax is similar to that of the legendary guitar player’s to the exception that it features the ultra-rare “acqua” blue dial.
The Tri-Compax gets its name from the three complications indicated on its dial: a complete calendar, moonphase indication and chronograph. The true feat here is how Universal Genève has managed to still retain a clean legible dial whilst ofering a large number of indications. The case of this lovely chronograph, some could argue, resembles the Rolex Daytona reference 6241, as the acrylic bezel with printed tachymeter in addition to the pump pushers are similar in appearance. Collectors will notice the/04 terminating the reference number of the present Tri-Compax which refers to the incredible turquoise blue color of the dial, an ethereal water blue perfectly balanced with the beautiful patina of the luminous markers. The present watch is certainly one of the rarest Universal Genève chronographs and a unique opportunity to obtain a timepiece that shows up on the international markets ever so rarely.
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164.
UNIVERSAL – A very rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial, tachymeter scale, and enlarged 45-minute register
Manufacturer
Universal
Year
1965
Reference No.
884100/01
Case No.
2’380’032
Model Name
Uni-Compax ‘Big Eye’
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. UG 125, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Universal Genève pin buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by Universal Genève Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1965.
Not only Universal Genève chronographs are garnering immense popularity but the brand’s “Big Eye” has become one of the most sought afer sports chronographs. The present Uni-Compax gets its “Big Eye” moniker from its oversized minute register at 3 o’clock and was made for two short years from 1963 to 1965 either with a white dial and black sub registers or black dial with silver sub registers like the present lot.
The matte black dial features a cavalcade of subtle details adding to the watch’s general awesomeness: cross hairs alluding to precision, a silver ring along the outer edge for the tachymeter scale and a minutes subdial with a highlighted eight minutes portion. The generous 36,5mm steel case houses the manually wound Universal caliber 125, featuring two registers at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock indicating timekeeping seconds and a 45-minute counter, respectively. Still retaining crisp defnition to the lugs and bezel, it is hard to believe a watch intended for everyday use is still in such excellent condition. The “Big Eye’s” overall desirability is also highlighted by the utter rarity of this piece of which only a handful have graced the international auction markets in the past 15 years.
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165.
HEUER – A very fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tidal indication, retailed by Orvis
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
circa 1965
Reference No.
2446SF
Case No.
197’565
Model Name
Solunagraph
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,700 €6,900-10,300 Accessories Accompanied by original instruction manual
From the 1950s util the 1970s Heuer produced a very interesting and innovative chronograph that featured a subsidiary tidal register used by sailors, fshermen and hunters. The theory behind the model was based on sailors’ and fshermen’s need to know low and high tides or hunters who wanted to know the favorable time of the day to hunt (major and minor feeding periods).
Originally made for the outdoor gear retailer Abercombie & Fitch under the name Seafarer, Heuer also made a version under its own brand called the Mareographe (its name comes from the conjunction of Marée which means tide in French and Graph which means writing in Greek). Orvis, a family-owned retail and mail-order business specializing in high-end fy fshing, hunting and sporting goods founded in the United States in 1856 also commissioned a similar tidal indication chronograph from Heuer under the name Solunagraph. Housed in the immediately recognizable 40mm Autavia reference 2446 case, the Solunagraph houses a Valjoux caliber 72. Presented today in attractive overall condition, the present lot, from the frst series, features a superb metallic graphite grey dial, “ghost” bezel and is accompanied by its original instruction manual. An extremely rare timepiece it would be a wonderful addition the any collection of rare complicated chronographs.
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166.
LEONIDAS – A very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with matte black dial, rotating bezel and luminous Arabic hour markers, made for the Italian Navy
Manufacturer
Leonidas
Year
1964
Case No.
M.M. 770’050 (issue number), inside caseback
Model Name
Tipo CP-1
Material
Stainless steel
stamped Brevet 189’190 and 210’299
Calibre
Manual, cal. 222, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,700 €6,900-10,300
Whilst the Tipo CP-2 chronographs made by Zenith, Universal Genève and Leonidas for the pilots of the Italian navy are quite popular and can be found regularly at auction, the CP-1 models are rather difcult to come by. The present model from 1964 made by Leonidas is one of those rare examples. The CP refers to the fact that it is a wristwatch (Cronometro da Polso) the CP-1s difer to the CP-2s by their size, 38mm. vs 43mm.
This Leonidas CP-1 has all the military attributes a collector can hope for. Not only does it have military markings on the back, most notably the AMI (Aeronautica Militare Italiana) as well as the issuance number but the no frills black dial with large Arabic numerals and rotating bezel are also perfectly suited for the needs of the pilots during their fight missions. However, the Leonidas CP-1 is quite diferent to the other AMI models known as it is the only one with hacking seconds, fyback chronograph and a surprising clamshell case construction case enabling for reinforced water resistance. The present watch will please the collector of military timepieces thanks to its overall excellent condition and its ultimate rarity.
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167.
ROLEX – A fne and very rare yellow gold wristwatch with sweep center seconds, date and lapis lazuli dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1996
Reference No.
16238 caseback stamped 16200
Movement No.
7’478’668
Case No.
T’103’721
Model Name
DateJust
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Jubilee bracelet reference 8386, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K concealed Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by original Rolex box
Useful, elegant, and timeless, the Rolex Datejust has endured since 1945 in an impressive array of case materials, sizes, bezel confgurations and dial types. Most iconic though, is the Datejust with Jubilee bracelet and futed bezel. The present lot, however, takes this enduring design and steps it up, with the case and bracelet made of yellow gold and the dial made of lapis lazuli. The use of semi-precious stones as watch dials is not exclusive to Rolex; however, it is Rolex that has mastered the application of such a delicate hard-stone as a watch dial.
Lapis lazuli is a deep blue semi-precious stone that has been prized since antiquity for its vibrant and rich color. In powdered form, it is known as ultramarine, a particularly intense and expensive paint pigment ofen used by Renaissance painters used for the color of the robes of the Virgin Mary. The manufacturing process consists of milling this stone to a thickness of less than 1mm to create a dial, which of course must be free of any serious inclusions or natural faws. The process being so complex and the rejection rate so high that it is believed that about only 20% of the dials fabricated made it into a production piece. The present lot is an incredibly fne example of a Datejust with lapis lazuli dial, its case in spectacular original condition and a beautiful dial free of any cracks or faws.
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168.
ROLEX – A rare and attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with so-called “porcelain” dial and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1988
Reference No.
18238
Movement No.
5’080’534
Case No.
L’370’737
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, reference 8385, end links stamped 55B, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex concealed deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,900-26,500 €12,900-21,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex service box.
This beautiful and unusual Day-Date is ftted with a so-called porcelain dial displaying an of-white hue with black graphics that seem almost three-dimensional. Rolex produced these porcelain dials between 1988 and 1989, most of these dials were used on Daytonas. However, sparingly few were also ftted to Day-Date models. Like many early porcelain dial Daytonas, this watch also bears an “L” serial. Furthermore, the caseback is engraved with a “Jubilee Khanjar” logo, indicating it was made for the Sultanate of Oman. Particularly during the 1970s and 1980s, His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Saided of Oman ordered a number of daring and interesting Rolex timepieces, such as the present example. Reference 18238 was the frst Day-Date to feature a “Double Quick Set” mechanism, which allowed the rapid and instantaneous setting of both the day and the date indications by turning the crown.
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169.
ROLEX – A rare and extremely well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2000
Reference No.
16520
Movement No.
207’760
Case No.
P’187’507
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “P Series”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex twinlock folding deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched guarantee dated September 23, 2001 and wallet.
Reference 16520 is among Rolex’s most innovative models to date. Housing a heavily modifed Zenith-based caliber 4030 mechanism, the model was ftted with the frst automatic chronograph movement in the frm’s history. At the time of launch in 1988, the watch immediately became a cult classic and garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers. The present example is known as the “P Series”. Produced in one of the last years of the reference’s manufacture period, it is today one of the most sought-afer variants of reference 16520, marking the end of an era for that model. This particular watch is preserved in unpolished and unspoiled condition, featuring sharp factory fnishes to the top of the lugs. In virtually “like new” condition, it features its original factory sticker on the caseback. The watch is even accompanied by its original punched guarantee, having been retailed in Leon, Spain on 23rd September 2001. The guarantee is furthermore punched with the correct country code, 150, for Spain.
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170.
ROLEX – A rare and attractive white gold chronograph wristwatch with red accents on the dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2004
Reference No.
116509
Movement No.
CO’138’570
Case No.
F’698’181
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex twinlock folding
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 ∆ $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400
Subtly unassuming and heavy, this Cosmograph Daytona is cased in white gold, which provides a luxurious touch to the tool watch. The black dial is furthermore designed with Arabic numerals and red accents throughout which gives the watch a sporty appearance. Reference 116509 is powered by the automatic caliber 4130, which is also used in reference 116520. Unveiled in 2000, this is Rolex’s frst in-house chronograph movement. The present watch is furthermore preserved in unpolished and excellent condition with sharp hallmarks beneath the lugs and a crisp milled fnish to the case back. The bezel is particularly sharp, showing a crisp facet on the rim, attesting to its untouched condition. One can thus conclude the watch was worn a handful of times only.
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171.
A rare and very well preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial and bracelet, retailed by Tifany & Co.
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1979
Reference No.
6265
Case No.
6’223’496
Model Name
Oyster Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78350 19, end links stamped 571, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex folding clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-160,000 $84,700-169,000 €68,600-137,000
The Rolex Daytona reference 6265 like the present model or its sister reference 6263 with acrylic bezel hardly need an introduction. Amongst the most popular and coveted vintage chronograph models, these references have become benchmarks.
Compared to the frst generation of the Cosmograph Daytona, the model featured screw down pushers and thus carries the “Oyster” designation on the dial, ofering water resistance. The model was ofered in either stainless steel or gold and the movement was also upgraded from a Valjoux 722 movement to the more reliable Valjoux 727 movement. The present model in superb condition has 11 characters printed on its dial that will certainly make the hearts of Daytona collectors beat even faster. Found beneath the “Oyster Cosmograph” script at 12 o’clock is the prestigious “Tifany & Co.” retailer signature. Adding to its ultimate desirability is the wonderful condition of this timepiece. The case may have never been polished, the lugs are thick, the bevels crisp and the combination of brushed and polished surfaces intact. To most vintage Rolex collectors, a reference 6263 Oyster Cosmograph Daytona represents a must have due to its superb aesthetics, legibility, and wearing comfort. To fnd one with such a dial, adorned with the prestigious Tifany & Co. signature, presents an extraordinary opportunity that should not be missed.
Launched in the late 1960s, references 6263 and 6265 replaced the frst Oyster Cosmograph model, 6240. Reference 6265 was introduced to the market in 1969 precisely and ceased production in the late 1980s.
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ROLEX Ref. 6265 Oyster Cosmograph Daytona “Tiffany & Co.”
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172.
A highly rare and most attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
6262 inside case back stamped 6239
Case No.
2’475’458
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Tropic
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 120,000-180,000 $127,000-191,000 €103,000-154,000
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Together with reference 6264, reference 6262 was the last Rolex chronograph watch to be ftted with pump pushers. Reference 6240, 6263 and 6265 all feature water resistant screw down pushers. While physically similar to its predecessor reference 6239, reference 6262 was ftted with the upgraded Valjoux movement caliber 727. The present watch is ftted with a beautiful “Paul Newman” dial, which is instantly recognizable due to its Art-Decostyle numerals within the subsidiary registers. While Paul Newman himself donned an exotic dial reference 6239, his name is forever synonymous with exotic dialed Cosmograph wristwatches. Its black on white grené dial, coupled with red “Daytona” text, makes for an incredibly eye-catching and attractive wristwatch. The luminous dots have aged to a pleasing warm yellow tone, matching the hands.
29/03/18 16:13
ROLEX Ref. 6262 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
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173.
An extremely rare and early white gold calendar wristwatch with Italian day disc and reeded bezel
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1958
Reference No.
6611B
Movement No.
DDN’884’156
Case No.
401’546
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1055B, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and pin buckle signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-70,000 ∆ $42,300-74,100 €34,300-60,000 The present watch featured on the App of John Goldberger’s 100 Superlative Rolex Watches
It is widely acknowledged among Rolex scholars and collectors, that the Day-Date is the most varied, unusual and creative model the frm has ever produced. The Day-Date was Rolex’s frst model to display separate day and date apertures. Since the model’s ofcial launch in 1956, the Day-Date has seen a multitude of watch design variations.
This watch is furthermore distinguished by its excellent condition. The dial is free of heavy tarnishing, and the watch is even ftted with an Italian day disc, giving it a lot of fair. Most importantly, the hands are not painted with luminous material, but enamel. This is ftting, as the dial does not have luminous dots either.
Manufactured only two years afer the introduction of the Day-Date model in 1956, the present watch is an extremely rare version of reference 6611B. Cased in white gold, it is one of a handful of known examples in white metal.
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ROLEX Ref. 6611B Day-Date
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174.
A very fne and rare stainless steel triple calendar chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1960
Reference No.
6236
Case No.
576’376
Model Name
Oyster Chronograph Antimagnetic, “Jean-Claude Killy”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72C, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 $159,000-265,000 €129,000-214,000 Literature The model is illustrated in I Cronograf Rolex - La Leggenda, Pucci Papaleo Editore, pp. 402 - 409.
Few Rolex models have been nicknamed afer celebrities, Paul Newman and Steve McQueen come immediately to mind but only one sportsman’s name has ever been associated with a model: Jean-Claude Killy. Launched in 1947, the reference 4767 Dato Compax was Rolex’s frst triple calendar chronograph wristwatch ftted inside a water-resistant Oyster case. Between 1947 and 1962, a total of four diferent Oyster Dato Compax models were produced: references 4767, 5036, 6036 and 6236. Made in yellow and pink gold as well as stainless steel, the production run was very small for each variation. Over the years, Rolex modifed both the dial and case design, with the fnal in the series, the reference 6236, featuring a more modern, clean dial style, as well as a three piece case with larger bezel. These models received the nickname “Jean-Claude Killy”, afer the three-time Olympic champion was seen wearing a reference 6236 like the present lot. The present lot is in excellent condition with well-defned thick lugs and sharp angles, its stunning dial with wonderful details such as the sunken and embossed Rolex Crown at 12 o’clock and faceted rectangular hour markers, which are complemented by the crisp blue of the outer date ring against the cream grené surface of the dial make the present reference 6236 enticing and seductive.
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ROLEX Ref. 6236 “Jean-Claude Killy”
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The Omani Khanjar
Consigned by a prominent and important collector in the Middle East, the following three watches have resided within the same collection for decades. While each watch has its own distinct character, all bear a Khanjar, the symbol of the Sultanate of Oman, on the case back. Previously unknown, these timepieces demonstrate how Rolex produced many varied and surprising horological gems throughout the 1970s and 1980s. During this period, Rolex customized a number of models, such as the GMT-Master, DayDate, Submariner and even Cosmograph Daytona.
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Watches engraved with the state symbol were most ofen gifs from His Majesty Qaboos bin Said Al Said, the Sultan of Oman. Presented as gifs to his closest dignitaries and ofcials, these timepieces are cherished and particularly collectible today. It is important to note that this collection comes directly from the Middle East, the consignor having direct access to these watches in Oman. These three watches have been cherished for many years and appear on the auction market for the very frst time.
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175.
ROLEX – A rare and attractive white gold wristwatch with baby pink lacquer dial, bracelet, hangtag and ftted presentation box, made for the Sultanate of Oman
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1977
Reference No.
6927
Movement No.
51’382
Case No.
5’288’532
Model Name
Datejust
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2030, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex bark-fnished bracelet, max length 160mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex bark-fnished concealed
Dimensions
25.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex hangtags and ftted presentation box.
The present watch displays a number of features that elevate it beyond a regular Datejust. Firstly, it is cased in white gold, exhibiting a beautiful “bark fnish” design on the bezel and center links. Furthermore, the dial is coated with layers of baby pink lacquer. “Stella” dials in this color are particularly rare. Finally, it is presented in unpolished condition, displaying crisp satin fnishes on the top of the lugs and case back. The outside caseback is furthermore engraved with the Khanjar symbol, showing that it was made for the Sultanate of Oman, along with the text “Registered Design”. Watches adorned with “Khanjar” symbol were made on special request from His Majesty Qaboos bin Said Al Said, the Sultan of Oman, and ofen presented as gifs to his closest dignitaries and citizens.
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176.
A highly rare and incredibly attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with chocolate “tropical” registers and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1973
Reference No.
6265
Movement No.
1729
Case No.
3’751’998 inside case back stamped
Model Name
Cosmograph
Material
18K yellow gold
with repeated serial number 3'751'998
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 7205, end links stamped 71, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped K9
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-150,000 ∑ $106,000-159,000 €85,700-129,000 Accessories Accompanied by extra Alligator strap.
Custom watches were ofen presented as gifs to ambassadors, dignitaries, or staf as a token of gratitude or respect in the Middle East. It was an honor to be presented with a Rolex watch showing the state symbol. Many of these timepieces are cherished by their original owners, and passed down from one generation to the next. This example features a “Khanjar” engraving on the caseback. Watches with these symbols were made on special request from His Majesty Qaboos bin Said Al Said, the Sultan of Oman, and presented as gifs to his closest dignitaries and staf.
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The present watch displays some extremely notable features. Previously unknown to the market, it was kept within the same family for many generations, only surfacing today. It is notably one of very few examples that feature an engraved “Khanjar” logo with a crown on the caseback as well as “Asprey”. Research shows that during the early 1970s, Rolex timepieces were ordered through Asprey. It was later that His Majesty’s watches were supplied by Khimji Ramdas, the ofcial retailer in Oman. It is our understanding that the Khanjar symbol with a crown was ofcially used and engraved afer the date of manufacture of this watch. While we cannot ascertain exactly why, we can confrm that the engraving is legitimate due to its precision, quality and the provenance of this piece. It is highly possible that the engraving was used on existing stock. The tiny hole next to the edge of the caseback is very important. This detail can be seen on other examples, such as “FAP” watches issued to the Peruvian Air Force. Rolex drilled small holes to the edge of the caseback to hold the caseback in place while they engraved “Asprey”. To add a further seal of confdence, the inside caseback is stamped with the case number - a feature that is seen on many special order watches from this period. Furthermore, the watch has been serviced by Rolex Geneva in the past. Most impressive is the “sigma” dial. The subsidiary registers have aged to a deep, rich and even chocolate brown color. The graphics inside remain vibrant, showing that the counters have aged naturally. The luminous dots are intact and round. It is free of tarnishing and spotting, attesting to its marvelous state of preservation.
29/03/18 16:30
ROLEX Ref. 6265 “Sultanate of Oman with Tropical Sub-Dials”
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177.
A highly rare and important yellow gold, diamond, ruby and sapphire-set dual time wristwatch with bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1986
Reference No.
16758
Movement No.
1’101’012
Case No.
9’129’733
Model Name
GMT-Master “SARU”
Material
18K yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires and rubies
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3075, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold and diamond-set Rolex President bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold and diamond-set Rolex concealed deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 $159,000-265,000 €129,000-214,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex presentation box, outer packaging and product literature.
First released in 1954, the GMT-Master was originally designed as an aid for pilots. With the rise of international travel in the 1940s and 1950s, Rolex initially created the model for Pan Am airlines to track dual time zones.
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The watch featured an immediately recognizable bakelite bezel with the twenty-four hour numerals painted on the underside, made to glow in any weather condition. Bakelite was Rolex’s material of choice, due to its low refectivity and high readability. The additional luminous 24 hour tipped hand allowed the viewer to immediately track a second time zone. Rolex continued to evolve and make modifcations to the GMTMaster model, for example switching out the bakelite bezel to a more durable metal version. Heavy, robust and lavishly set with diamonds, sapphires and rubies, this variant is nicknamed “SARU”, referencing its precious gem-set bezel. The present model, along with reference 6270 and 6269, was the earliest Rolex sports watch to feature precious stones. This concept was incredibly daring in the 1980s, as tool watches and luxury gem-set timepieces resided in two separate spheres. Rolex in particular excels at the incredibly time-consuming job of setting well-matched and beautiful stones. The sky blue sapphires contrast wonderfully against the ruby baguette stones, truly elevating the present example beyond a standard dual time wristwatch. This example is furthermore engraved with the “Khanjar” logo on the caseback with a crown. Preserved in excellent condition, the case displays crisp edges and sharp hallmarks beneath the lugs.
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ROLEX Ref. 16758 GMT-Master “SARU for Sultanate of Oman”
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178.
A highly rare and remarkably well-preserved 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with guarantee, numbered hang tag and ftted presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1963
Reference No.
6238
Case No.
997’150
Model Name
“Pre-Daytona”
Material
14K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
bridge further stamped ROW Clasp/Buckle
14K yellow gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-80,000 $63,500-84,700 €51,400-68,600 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated August 11, 1965, original numbered sales tag, Instructions for Use from The American Rolex Watch Corporation and ftted presentation box. Literature A similar model is featured in I Cronograf Rolex - La Leggenda by Pucci Papaleo Editore, p. 290.
The present watch is a superlative example of reference 6238. It is most notably cased in 14K yellow gold, indicating it was made for export to the United States. Fitting, as the movement bridge is stamped with the export mark ROW, indicating it was to be delivered to the American market. The astounding condition of this watch furthermore sets it apart from its peers. Featuring full, thick lugs and a wide bezel, its proportions are excellent. In addition, there are two sharp hallmarks punched beneath the lugs that are incredibly crisp. A light layer of patina has developed throughout the case, indicating that it has been untouched for a long period of time. The “transitional” dial, which is correct for the serial number, is exceptional. It features full luminous dots that display warm patina, matching the hands. Most importantly, it displays a “Miles” tachymeter scale, which is correct for American market watches. Equally impressive are its accompanying documents, such as the original guarantee and Instructions for Use from The American Rolex Watch Corporation. Even the hang tags indicate the watch’s serial number and show that it is cased in 14K gold - an important accessory that most existing examples do not retain today. Originally consigned at auction three years ago by the descendants of the original owner, this “second owner watch” is destined for a collector who not only has the most discerning taste, but also enjoys complete archival documents showing how a watch originally lef a Rolex retailer.
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ROLEX Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”
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179.
A fne, extremely rare and very attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with Mark I “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
6263, inside caseback stamped 6239
Case No.
2’197’903
Model Name
Oyster Cosmograph “Paul Newman Panda”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, reference 7205, end links stamped 57, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex folding
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
deployant clasp stamped 3.70
Estimate CHF 250,000-450,000 $265,000-476,000 €214,000-386,000 Literature A similar example of a stainless steel reference 6263 “Panda” is illustrated in Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, pp. 348 and 349
The Rolex Daytona with exotic dial known worldwide as the ‘Paul Newman’ is not only the most coveted vintage chronograph amongst Rolex collectors today but has also become a household name thanks to the shattering USD 17.7 million obtained for Paul Newman’s personal Daytona (with “Paul Newman” dial) auctioned by Phillips in New York in October 2017. The present reference 6263 is nicknamed “Panda” due to the dial’s exotic black and white color scheme, which mimics the
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colors on the face of the delightful bear. In an interesting twist of fate, the Daytona chronographs with “Paul Newman” dials, which are avidly sought afer today, were quite unpopular upon launch, and this lack of commercial success led Rolex to produce very limited numbers, making these timepieces exceedingly rare. This timepiece bears all the correct details of a “Mk 1” Paul Newman Panda with a 2.1 million serial number. The frst, and most striking detail, is the “Mk 1” dial, which features thin “Rolex Oyster Cosmograph” text without any serifs. The “Paul Newman Panda” generally features four subtly diferent dial confgurations in accordance to the serial number, and later examples display sharp serifs. The case back stamped 6239 is correct, as scholarship suggests that early reference 6263s were ftted with the lefover case backs of references 6239 and 6241. The dial of the present lot is a pleasure to behold. It’s zen-like serenity is further enhanced thanks to the lack of unnecessary inscriptions, the Art-Deco style of the font used and the hash marks with small squares found on the subsidiary dials are also characteristic of “Paul Newman” style dials. Fitted with an acrylic bezel, the reference is also recognized for its screw-down pushers for improved water resistance. The present watch comes with its original riveted Oyster bracelet stamped for the third quarter of 1970. This reference 6263 “Panda” is fresh to the market. Bought in 1970 by the father of the consignor, it was given to the latter for his 18th birthday, and worn sparingly. Freshness to the market, rarity, attractiveness and desirability make this Rolex reference 6263 a must have in any fne collection.
29/03/18 16:32
ROLEX Ref. 6263 “Paul Newman Panda Mk I”
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180.
An extremely rare, highly attractive and important stainless steel triple calendar wristwatch with two-tone dial, moonphases and bracelet
Just a few decades ago, before becoming the luxury powerhouse it is today, Rolex had a very diferent brand image. The company was established in its earliest form in London in 1905 as Wilsdorf and Davis. At the time, watches were not fashion accessories in the least, but rather proper tools used for the most varied activities: from the most mundane “time telling” for the everyday user, to the most sophisticated calculations of military navigators (at sea frst, in the air later). The founder Hans Wilsdorf’s vision was to provide accurate, durable and reliable timepieces which could withstand continued professional usage; the idea of providing luxury goods was still light years away. In fact, reference 6062 can be considered one of the earliest forays of the company into the luxury goods market. Up until the 1950s, Rolex’s production consisted mostly of chronograph pieces or simple calendar (Datejust) watches. The most remarkable innovations introduced by Rolex in the frst part of the past century (and, considering their impact on the feld, possibly ever) were not complicated tourbillons or refned carillon repeaters. Rather, they were the rotor for automatic winding, and the waterproof Oyster case: two unfathomably ingenious, useful and equally practical inventions.
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ROLEX Ref. 6062 “Two-Tone Dial”
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180.
An extremely rare, highly attractive and important stainless steel triple calendar wristwatch with two-tone dial, moonphases and bracelet
From this point of view, reference 6062 is a momentous milestone: for the frst time Rolex went out of its “comfort zone” of relatively simple pieces and tried to create a complicated dress wristwatch. This was a double efort, as at the same time also the non-waterproof reference 8171 featuring the same set of complications - was released. The fact that these two references are now among the rarest models made by the house speaks volumes about how that experiment went: in the eyes of the public, Rolex was not yet so strongly associated with complicated watches, albeit it had already grown to being one of the most important watchmakers in the world, and the market gave the models a lukewarm reception. In fact, afer this experience, Rolex focused on professional pieces (chronographs, dual-time watches, simple calendars) until the 1990s, and it would take more than half a century to issue another moon phase model, which happened last year with the Cellini ref. 50535. When analyzing reference 6062, one cannot help but appreciate how it truly feels like a luxury evolution of a sport’s watch. First and foremost, the Oyster case makes it a waterproof piece, which is somewhat of a contradiction for a luxury watch, especially at that time. Furthermore, it is equipped with an automatic rotor. To give a comparison, Patek Philippe produced no waterproof calendar pieces, with exception of the very rare reference 2438/1, until the late 1980s. Compounding to the “clash of souls”, reference 6062 was mostly produced in yellow gold, another oddity for a waterproof case. As a matter of fact, reference 6062 is among the very rare vintage Rolex models to feature a gold production higher than steel.
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ROLEX Ref. 6062 “Two-Tone Dial”
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180.
An extremely rare, highly attractive and important stainless steel triple calendar wristwatch with two-tone dial, moonphases and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1953
Reference No.
6062
Movement No.
N32’944 further stamped 00014
Case No.
942’597, inside caseback stamped III.53
Model Name
“Stelline”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 9 3/4’’, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex USA Jubilee bracelet, endlinks stamped 55, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex USA deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 700,000-1,400,000 $741,000-1,480,000 €600,000-1,200,000
Thus, the piece ofered here not only is an example of one of the most unusual, historically important and attractive Rolex models ever made, but it is furthermore a representative of the extremely scarce steel variety of such model. While this is more than enough to conquer the heart and mind of the collector, it furthermore features an exquisitely well preserved two tone dial: fully original and without any kind of intervention, it is highlighted by the diferent grené fnish of the outer date ring.
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It is interesting to point out how stainless steel examples of the reference appear to feature exclusively the “Semi-Explorer” dial confguration (with Arabic 3 and 9, reminiscent of the famous 3/6/9 Explorer dial) in either steel or gold color. This layout bolsters the utilitarian appeal of the piece, and when featuring gold colored markers - such as in this watch - it creates a very pleasing contrast with the steel case. When talking about the case of this piece, one cannot omit to mention its excellent condition: the lugs are full and their proportions intact, the pinholes for the bracelet bars are well defned and properly distanced from the edges of the lugs and the “Modèle Déposé” engraving on the case back is crisp . Even the dedicated satin fnish arrived to us very well preserved. An additional layer of appeal is also granted by the very rare and extremely attractive Rolex USA Jubilee bracelet. In the past decade no more than ten stainless steel examples of reference 6062 have appeared at auction and the present piece is one of the best preserved and original models we have seen. Compounding to its rarity, condition and undeniable aesthetic appeal, the present watch is furthermore appearing for the frst time on the auction market: a true gem for the most demanding of vintage Rolex collectors.
29/03/18 16:33
ROLEX Ref. 6062 “Two-Tone Dial”
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181.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A very fne and extremely elegant white gold and diamond-set rectangular-shaped lady’s bracelet watch with concealed dial and certifcate
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1971
Reference No.
3367/1
Movement No.
1’245’901
Case No.
2’690’670
Material
18K white gold and diamond-set
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13.5, 20 jewels, stamped twice
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Patek Philippe integrated mesh
with the Geneva Seal bracelet, max length 180mm Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
21.5mm Length, 19.5 Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,700 €6,900-10,300 Accessories Accompanied by the original Certifcate d’Origine et de Garantie dated December 1971 and Patek Philippe pouch. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1971 and its subsequent sale on December 10th, 1971.
While Patek Philippe is mostly renowned for its complicated creations, the frm produced also some remarkable bejeweled lady’s timepieces. While the execution of such gem-set pieces is continuous throughout the history of the frm up to modern days, it is possibly during the 1960s and 1970s that the most creative lady’s watches were designed and produced. This can be considered a “byproduct” of the taste of the time, which put elaborate, ofen textured and/or gem-set cases in the center stage, while the dial becomes temporarily less adorned. The present watch perfectly embodies the spirit of that epoch, with the aesthetic efect of the piece entrusted exclusively to the case/bracelet execution. Not only it is ofered complete with its original certifcate, but furthermore it is in extremely well-preserved condition, with hardly any warping - inevitable consequence of long-term wear - to the bracelet.
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182.
CARTIER – An exceptionally fne and rare limited edition white gold rectangular wristwatch with dual time zones made for the Asian market
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 2004
Reference No.
2567
Case No.
037/100
Model Name
Tank Cintrée Dual Time
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 060MC, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
23mm Width 46mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,700 €6,900-10,300 Accessories Accompanied by Cartier ftted box and certifcate
Cartier frst launched the “Collection Privée, Cartier Paris” in 1998 to celebrate the manufacture’s most iconic timepieces, including, but not limited to, the Santos, Tank and Tortue models. Each of the selected models paid homage to the classic and elegant designs from the storied jeweler’s past. Cartier’s luxury objects, whether jewelery or timepieces, were always designed for their elite clientele: the nobleman, the driver, the pilot, the sportsman, or the world-traveler. To refect the demands of the latter, Cartier has since its earliest days produced watches with multiple time zones; even as early as 1927, they created a custom pocket watch, likely for a distinguished patron, crafed in platinum and displaying three separate time-zones. The frst Cintrée was released six years earlier, in 1921, as the largest and boldest variation of Cartier’s line of Tank watches. Over the next nine decades, it has been produced in small batches, with a variation of materials and dial architecture, but never losing its curved, elongated form. Indeed, it was most recently released in an updated form at le Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie de Genève in 2018 to much fanfare from both vintage and modern enthusiasts of Cartier. The present Cintrée also shares identical dimensions with that same vintage Cintrée watch released in 1921, measuring 46mm long and 23mm wide, enabling the wearer to reminisce and imagine the model in its most original form. It was released in 2004 in limited quantity for the Asian market only, as evidenced by the second time-zone featuring Chinese numerals at the quarter hours. This white gold version is furthermore presented in exceptional condition, retaining its original accessories, including the original certifcate stating the watch is numbered 37, and part of a limited edition series of just 100 examples.
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29/03/18 16:34
183.
CARTIER – A fne and attractive rectangular yellow gold dual time wristwatch
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
1990
Reference No.
A106028
Case No.
220-90 inside caseback stamped 20’130
Model Name
Tank Cintrée
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. ETA 2412, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
23mm Width, 46mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-9,000 $6,400-9,500 €5,100-7,700 Accessories Accompanied by Cartier International Guaranty and ftted box
The name Cartier immediately ignites one’s imagination with lavish parties, famboyance and Parisian glamour. The present Tank Cintrée from 1990 is a marvel of fnesse and design ingenuity. To create a dual time watch, Cartier decided to house two mechanical movements into one case and a dial split in two sections for the time indication, giving the watch a particularly vibrant look. The seductive Tank Cintrée case with its long case sides, curved back and two faceted crowns with sapphire cabochons lends itself particularly well to this complication. In overall excellent condition, the present unusual and inventive timepiece will lure in the savvy collector.
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29/03/18 16:35
184.
CARTIER – A rare and unusual asymmetrical platinum limited edition wristwatch
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
1996
Reference No.
2488
Movement No.
9’411’488
Case No.
A1’131’161 further stamped 008/100
Model Name
Tank Asymétrique
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9 P2, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator, further accompanied by a black leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
23mm Width, 33mm Length
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 ∑ $8,500-12,700 €6,900-10,300 Accessories Accompanied by Cartier ftted box and instructions manual
Throughout the frst half of the twentieth century, Cartier was innovating boldly designed and interesting wristwatches, laying the foundations for the watch industry as a whole for years to come. Cartier has ofen looked back on its past to inspire its future, and a number of their early creations have found new life in modern interpretations - not rendering them less special by any means, but underlining their importance and timelessness.
In 1996, Cartier released this faithful re-adaptation of the 1936 “Parallelogram,” later known as the Tank Asymètrique. The tilted form of the watch was intended to make reading the time while driving easier, which also explains the legible Arabic numerals. Though never meant to be part of the actual Tank line, like the Tank Basculante, the Tank Asymètrique found itself included therein because of obvious design cues. This modern re-release was made available in 300 examples of 18 karat yellow gold and 100 examples in platinum. The current example is rendered in platinum and numbered 008 out of 100, and is accompanied by its original ftted presentation box and product literature. Powering this deceptively simple and elegant watch is the caliber 9P2, created by Piaget in 1952 and widely considered one of the best and thinnest manually-wound wristwatch movements, measuring an impressively slim 2mm in height. Utilizing only the best elements of the past, Cartier has created a timepiece enduringly and impressively elegant.
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185.
A rare and very fne platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, leap year cycle indication, digital year indication and Certifcate
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
2004
Reference No.
47031
Movement No.
933’243
Case No.
768’458
Model Name
Malte Perpetual Calendar
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1126/1, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Vacheron Constantin
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
double deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 ∑ $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Certifcat d’Origine dated October 29, 2004
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Vacheron Constantin is the oldest watch manufacturer in existence. Throughout its history, they created some of the most complicated and important timepieces in history, and the present watch exemplifes how profciently they can exploit such an enormous know-how in today’s watchmaking. In fact, this is a very unusual execution of one of the most classic of all complications: the perpetual calendar. Instead of opting for a usual 3-subdials layout, only two subsidiary counters are employed - for the day and month - positioned on the lower half of the dial, leaving the entire top half available for the retrograde date indication. A highly intricate complication, the retrograde date had at the time been approached only by a handful of the top tier watch manufacturers. As a matter of fact, beyond its aesthetic and technical interest, this is a nod to Vacheron Constantin’s history: in the 1930s they made a very limited series of unique pieces indeed featuring a retrograde date. On top of such an unusual architecture, a digital 4-digit year display has been included at 6 o ‘clock. The result is an extremely attractive dial which ofers perfect readability of all the many calendar indications. Furthermore, it is distinguished by its absolute balance: everything on the dial is perfectly symmetrical with the exception of the small leap year indication at 3 which, rather than disrupting the looks of the piece, acts as a “beauty mark” of sorts, further emphasizing the balance of the watch.
29/03/18 16:35
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Ref. 47031 Malte Perpetual Calendar
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186.
A rare and attractive white gold limited edition worldtime wristwatch with moonphases, anniversary medal and box, certifcate and product literature
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2015
Reference No.
5575G
Movement No.
5’881’144
Case No.
6’026’348
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 HU LU, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $52,900-106,000 €42,900-85,700 Accessories Accompanied by special 175th Anniversary ftted box, Certifcate of Origin, limited edition attestation, anniversary medal, product literature and leather wallet.
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Patek Philippe celebrated their 175th anniversary in 2014, and to commemorate this remarkable milestone, released a series of impressive references, all limited editions, epitomizing the horological mastery that has led to the enduring success of this esteemed manufacture. The reference 5575 is no exception, being the frst timepiece in which Patek Philippe combined a world time complication with a moon phase following the lunar cycle. Patek Philippe engineered an entirely new caliber for this timepiece (and the corresponding ladies’ version, the reference 7175 in rose gold), the caliber 240 HU LU (“heures universelle lune”), an ultra-thin automatic movement with a 22 karat gold microrotor. The moon itself is highly realistic, yet no less elegant, and is stunning against a nocturnal starry sky, the whole skyscape made possible by a complex and intricate metallization of the two moonphase discs. Instead of Paris, Geneva represents Central European Time on the external rotating disc, a nod to Patek Philippe’s Swiss heritage. The hour hand is in the form of the Southern Cross, a constellation ofen used for navigation, particularly in the Southern Hemisphere where it is visible for the entire year. Cased in elegant white gold, this example is presented in like new condition, complete with all of its original accoutrements.
29/03/18 16:36
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5575G “World Time Moon”
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187.
An extremely fne and very rare limited edition platinum minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1995
Reference No.
30020/000P
Movement No.
812’646
Case No.
634’580
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Vacheron Constantin double deployant clasp, additional platinum Vacheron Constantin pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and deployant clasp signed
Estimate CHF 120,000-180,000 $127,000-191,000 €103,000-154,000 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Certifcate of Authenticity duplicate made on January 17, 2012 confrming production of the present watch in its current confguration and its subsequent sale on November 17, 1995, additional solid caseback, additional Vacheron Constantin platinum pin buckle, ftted wooden presentation box and outer packaging.
Sometimes a brand decides to create a watch which embodies the philosophy and ethos of the company, a true statement of intent about what that name means to the industry and what the company wants to achieve in the future. This is precisely the concept behind Vacheron Constantin’s reference 30020. The importance of this reference is fully understood when examining its case and movement construction. In fact, both of them are directly inspired by a vintage minute repeating reference made in the frst half of the past century: reference
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4261, now one of the most coveted vintage Vacheron Constantin references. The case is a direct descendant of the 4261 case, defned by the iconic teardrop lugs and the thin, highly elegant overall construction. As a matter of fact, cal. 1755 was at the time of its inception the thinnest minute repeating movement ever made, sporting a remarkable 3.28 mm thickness. Its slimness, however, is just one of the fascinating aspects of its movement. It was inspired by the movement construction of reference 4261, and realized following “old school” construction techniques, the ebauches themselves being reconditioned vintage stock. 200 examples of this calibre were made. The majority of them was cased in reference 30010 (with traditional dial) and reference 30030 (with skeletonized dial). 77 examples, however, were upgraded with the perpetual calendar / moonphases module, and nearly all of them were cased in the present reference 30020. Remarkably, this was the very frst time Vacheron Constantin produced a minute repeating wristwatch with perpetual calendar and moonphases. Two repeating vintage pieces with calendar and moon phases are known, but they feature a simple triple calendar. Not only the present watch is one of this rarefed series, but it furthermore sports a unique caseback. Reference 30020 was originally delivered with a solid and a glazed caseback. The original platinum solid caseback having been misplaced, the current owner requested Vacheron Constantin to create a new one, at great expense. The overall rarity, complexity and beauty of the present Vacheron Constantin minute repeater with perpetual calendar makes it a superb addition to any collection.
29/03/18 16:37
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Ref. 30020 “Patrimony Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar”
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188.
A highly rare and probably unique platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, black dial, Breguet numeral at 12 o’clock, tachymeter scale, original certifcate, additional caseback and ftted presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2014
Reference No.
3970P
Movement No.
3’932’284
Case No.
4’279’365
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe folding clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 200,000-400,000 $212,000-423,000 €171,000-343,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated August 19, 2014, additional numbered case back, sales tag, setting pin, product literature, portfolio photograph of the present watch and ftted presentation box.
The frst of its kind to ever appear at auction, the present watch is not only cased in platinum but also features a beautiful black dial adorned with a Breguet numeral at 12 o’clock and additional tachymeter scale, which is confrmed by the Certifcate of Origin. These “special order” 3970s were produced afer the reference ofcially ceased production.
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Such watches were only granted to Patek Philippe’s most trusted and exclusive clientele. To date, this watch is the only known platinum reference 3970 with the present dial confguration to appear in the public sphere. Fresh to the auction market, it is furthermore ofered in excellent condition, and has been worn a few times only. It is accompanied by its original accessories including the Certifcate of Origin, setting pin, additional numbered caseback and portfolio photograph. Launched in 1986 and in production until approximately 2004, reference 3970 replaced reference 2499. Both models share certain features such as pump pushers and downturned futed lugs. Reference 3970 replaced the Valjoux movement of its predecessors with a heavily modifed Lemania 2310 ébauche called CH 27-70Q. Furthermore, two new indications were added to reference 3970: a leap year indication and a 24 hour hand. Reference 3970 underwent three signifcant transformations. While the frst series featured a snap-on caseback, the second series displayed baton markers, feuille hands and a screw back. It was produced concurrently with reference 3971 which had a snap-on sapphire back. Finally the third series merged references 3970 and 3971 and ofered both sapphire and solid screw-down case backs. This example is ofered with both its sapphire case back and solid numbered platinum case back.
29/03/18 16:37
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3970P “Special Dial with Breguet Numeral at 12 o’clock and Tachymeter”
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189.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A fne and unusual yellow gold wristwatch with textured blue dial and winding crown on the back
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1972
Reference No.
3585
Movement No.
1’183’241
Case No.
2’700’773
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 350, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold pin buckle signed PPCo
Dimensions
36mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-6,000 $4,200-6,400 €3,400-5,100 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1972 and its subsequent sale on March 2, 1972.
A cousin of the Patek Philippe Ellipse, the reference 3585 boasts a larger, cushion shaped case in 18 karat yellow gold measuring 36mm in diameter. It wears boldly on the wrist, is wellproportioned and with an interesting textured navy blue dial somewhere between a cross-hatched pattern and a linen-style fnish. Beautiful gold indexes and a matching handset complete a harmonious case and dial worthy of a manufacture such as Patek Philippe.
The reference 3585 is powered by the automatic caliber 350, an unusual movement in use from 1970 until 1985, though mostly phased out of production by 1979. Remarkably, the winding crown and stem are located at the caseback, allowing for a fuidity of form from the wearer’s perspective. Innovative for the time and rarely seen, the caliber 350 also uses a bidirectional peripheral rotor, wherein the rotor can swing in both directions to power the movement, and the weighted segment made of gold is located on a track surrounding the movement. Boldness and innovation were emblematic of the 1970s, and this Patek Philippe wristwatch manufactured and sold in 1972 embodies both.
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190.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A lady’s fne and rare yellow gold, diamond and lapis lazuli-set bracelet watch with matching earrings and ring
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1976
Reference No.
4381/3
Movement No.
1’274’500
Case No.
2’760’368
Material
18K yellow gold, diamonds and lapis lazuli
Calibre
Manual, cal. 16-250, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold, diamonds and lapis lazuli Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 160mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe concealed folding
Dimensions
27.5mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet,
clasp stamped Patek Philippe Geneva
ring and earrings signed Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with lapis lazuli dial in 1976 and its subsequent sale on September 21, 1976 and presentation box.
Manufactured in the 1970s, this Patek Philippe suite is comprised of a bracelet watch, ring and pair of earrings. Set with lapis lazuli and diamonds, each item is signed Patek Philippe. Particularly during the 1960s and 1970s, the brand designed many daring and elaborate creations for women. Set with hard stone and cased in precious metal, the possibilities were endless. As with all Patek Philippe timepieces, the bracelet is made with utmost care and the highest standards in quality. Incredibly fexible, each panel is set with a lapis lazuli stone and linked by a row of diamonds. While incredibly fashionable during the 1970s, the robust proportions and eye-catching color scheme are still incredibly in-vogue today.
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29/03/18 16:38
191.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with Breguet numerals
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1960
Reference No.
96
Movement No.
728’754
Case No.
310’410
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-400, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
14K yellow gold pin buckle
Dimensions
31mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-7,000 $4,200-7,400 €3,400-6,000 Accessories Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1960 with Breguet numerals and its subsequent sale on February 24, 1960.
Sophisticated and elegant, Patek Philippe’s reference 96 is the perfect example of a timeless design. First manufactured in 1932, this model, with its long downturned lugs and large fat bezel, remains relevant over 80 years later. In production until 1973, the reference 96 is a stalwart in Patek Philippe’s collection. It is the frst Calatrava model that Patek Philippe ever produced, ushering in a new era for both the frm and the dress wristwatch. It defned the Calatrava “style”while also being the frst model to introduce numbered references to Patek Philippe’s timepieces. Throughout its production cycle, many variations were made, with a diverse range of dials that collectors until today enjoy discovering. Especially sought afer are those with Breguet numerals such as the present example. In overall very attractive condition, the present lot will appeal to the collector interested in minimalistic designs.
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192.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A rare stainless steel wristwatch with Breguet numerals, luminous hour markers and hands, presented by H.H. Windsor
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1943
Reference No.
96
Movement No.
924’063
Case No.
629’942
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-120, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel buckle
Dimensions
31mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-10,000 $8,500-10,600 €6,900-8,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1943 with silvered dial, Breguet numerals in steel and dots (radium) and its subsequent sale on June 15, 1944.
Cased in stainless steel, this reference 96 most notably features luminous dots and hands along with Breguet numerals, all of which are confrmed by the Extract from the Archives. Fresh to the auction market, it is preserved in excellent condition and is the seventh known example with the present dial confguration.
The dial is incredibly stunning and the case retains strong and full proportions. Most interestingly the caseback is engraved “Frank B. Hart Afectionate Remembrance of Loyal Service to Popular Mechanics Magazine 1909 H.H. Windsor Jr. Press 1944”. A noted watch connoisseur, H.H Windsor Jr. was the son of H.H Windsor, the founder of Popular Mechanics magazine. Following his father’s death in 1924, H.H. Windsor Jr. became editor and publisher of the publication. Patek Philippe watches appear to have been a favoured gif for members of the Popular Mechanics community. In November 2016, Phillips had the honor of selling a pink gold reference 1518 that was presented to H.H. Windsor Jr. in 1952. The present example was presented to Frank B. Hart in 1944 from H.H. Windsor Jr. in remembrance of his loyal service. The stainless steel case and luminous dial make sense, given the technical nature of Frank B. Hart’s line of work.
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29/03/18 16:38
193.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN – An extremely rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with center seconds and black dial
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1952
Reference No.
4726
Movement No.
492’723
Case No.
334’010, bezel further stamped “10” to the inside
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. P454/5B, 17 jewels, stamped “VXN”
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-7,000 $4,200-7,400 €3,400-6,000 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1952.
Vacheron Constantin is the oldest watchmaking company in the world - this year celebrating its 263rd birthday - and for over a quarter of a millenium it has been considered one of the most refned producers in the world. The present watch superbly exemplifes why.
A peerless example of elegance, this timepiece stuns the beholder with its excellently preserved black dial with beady minute division, housed in a perfectly sized 35mm case. The case construction appears to be very simple, by in fact some details, most notably the lugs’ construction sporting small “faps” to the side and a “bump” on top, which betray an extremely deep design process. The result is a watch that while incredibly elegant, also manages to evoke a touch of fair and eccentricity. The black dial provides additional, enormous aesthetic impact, also thanks to the perfect contrast it achieves with the gold case. A fnal layer of appeal is given by the movement: it is stamped VXN, a feature not present on all Vacheron Constantin creations but only on those destined to the US market, furthermore increasing the rarity and collectability of this superb timepiece.
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29/03/18 16:39
194.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN – A fne and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with guilloché dial
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1951
Reference No.
4710
Movement No.
492’035
Case No.
323’403
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 454/5B, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold pin buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 7,000-10,000 $7,400-10,600 €6,000-8,600 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract From the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1951.
A savant mix of sophistication and audacity, the most striking elements of the present reference 4710 are the pointy faceted lugs and the absolutely gorgeous guilloché dial.
The large fat bezel is a superb frame for the multi pattern hand guilloché dial with its central vertical lines and barley pattern on the periphery. Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 add a pinch of balance to an already enticing dial. The present timepiece from one of the world’s most prestigious manufacturers is not just a pretty face but houses a superbly fnished Vacheron Constantin caliber 454 featuring a swan neck regulator. This timepiece also carries with it a bit of the story of its original owner, whom in 1954 received it as a lovely Christmas present, as the caseback is engraved “Darling, with all my love, Fay. Dec. 25 1954.” A perfect example of Vacheron Constantin’s visually innovative designs and technical expertise, the present lot will certainly please the collector in search of debonair elegance.
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195.
An attractive, rare and wonderfully preserved stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1945
Reference No.
5483
Movement No.
7’028’035
Case No.
Order number 23’197 further stamped
Material
Stainless steel
59 on caseback and lug Calibre
Manual, cal. 12.65N, 16 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,200-42,300 €17,100-34,300 Literature This exact timepiece is featured in “Longines-Legendary Watches” by John Goldberger pp.136-137.
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Longines is a fascinating brand. Known for the elegance and technical mastery of its vintage chronographs housing calibers 30CH or 13ZN, the brand from Saint Immier can also be credited for maybe lesser known but not less impressive time only watches. The present watch stands out not only for its spectacular condition but also its pure design awesomeness. The case measures 35mm but wears much larger thanks to its untouched case with thick downturned lugs and large opening to the dial. The dial is bewildering in the cavalcade of subtle details, adding up to a fabulous result. The mix of the upside down triangle at 12 o’clock and the succession of Arabic numerals and round dots that have turned a pleasing latte in color, provide a visually stimulating result. The “radium burn” on the dial attests that the watch remained unworn for a long period of time. The ultimate rarity of this watch delivered in 1946 to Bratislava (Slovakia), its tasteful design and untouched condition ofer an opportunity the savvy collector should not miss.
29/03/18 16:39
LONGINES Ref. 5483 “Sleeping Beauty”
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29/03/18 16:40
196.
An extremely fne and rare stainless steel wristwatch with Breguet numerals, luminous hour markers, and luminous hands
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1943
Reference No.
565
Movement No.
924’130
Case No.
629’559
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-120PS, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $52,900-106,000 €42,900-85,700 Accessories Accompanied by an Extract from the Archives confrming the date of manufacture in 1943 and subsequent date of sale on June 19, 1944. Literature A similar example of the reference 565 in stainless steel with luminous hands and Breguet numerals is prominently illustrated in Patek Philippe Steel Watches, by John Goldberger, pp. 184-185.
True windows into the past are difcult to fnd, as time typically takes its toll on all things, organic or mechanical. In the realm of collectible vintage watches, signs of age and wear can be alternately considered enhancements or detractors. In the case of the present reference 565, it is both the signs of its age and magnifcently preserved state that add to its singularity.
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Patek Philippe’s reference 565 is undoubtedly one of the most iconic time-only watches from the 1940s. The case architecture straddles the divide between robust practicality and simple elegance. Designed to cater to a public with a growing interest in outdoor activities, this model is not only ftted with a screw down caseback - something of a rarity in the 1940s - but also features an inner sof iron case serving to shield the movement from the adverse efects of magnetic felds. The case is composed of only two parts, constructed without the typical snap-on bezel, further suppressing another entry point of dust and humidity. Our eyes are frst drawn to the case, as beautifully fnished and pristine as it was when delivered to its frst owner seventythree years ago. The dually faceted bezel retains its original mirror polish and sharp lines, as does the brushed sides of the case. The dial follows, with its superb matte silvered fnish, long hard enamel signature, bold luminous blued-steel baton hands and refned Breguet numerals. The smaller details are just as exciting, with beautiful luminous dots at each hour interval, a perfect and classic railway minute track, and the well-designed subsidiary seconds dial free of any noticeable imperfections. One of less than 15 known steel reference 565 with Breguet numerals and luminous dots and hands, this example is fresh to the market and one of the fnest examples of a steel 565 in this combination ever ofered publicly. It is proof that there are still unplumbed depths of vintage watches that have survived in such factory original, hardly worn condition. Even the most seasoned collector or experienced specialist is sure to feel his or her heart skip a beat when admiring this watch.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 565 “Breguet Numerals and Luminous”
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197.
A rare, attractive and oversized stainless steel wristwatch with three-tone dial
Manufacturer
IWC
Year
1944
Reference No.
325
Movement No.
955’085
Case No.
1’107’287
Model Name
Portugieser
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 98, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel IWC pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-140,000 $74,100-148,000 €60,000-120,000 Accessories Accompanied by IWC Zertifkat confrming sale of the present watch in 1944.
During the late 1930s, IWC received a rather unusual order from a customer in Portugal, requesting a wristwatch with the same case size and accuracy of a pocket watch. To meet the needs of this client, IWC created an ultra thin and oversized wristwatch. The result was an attractive, precise and particularly large timepiece. While the very frst Portugiesers were ftted with the caliber 74, IWC eventually switched to caliber 98 in the 1940s, which we see on the present watch. The present watch is distinguished by its three-tone champagne dial, boldly displaying contrasting silvered and brushed fnishes on the dial. The dial condition is rather remarkable, especially since it was only shielded by a nonwaterproof snap-on case back. Despite its age, the watch is preserved in excellent condition, with sharp fnishes and crisp edges. Research indicates that this watch was delivered to Weinstabl in Bratislava. Absolutely ahead of its time, the Portugieser is today an incredibly iconic watch that is integral to the DNA of IWC. The frm has constantly reinvented this model with a variety of complications, such as a chronograph function.
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IWC Ref. 325 Portugieser “Three-Tone Champagne Dial”
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198.
A rare and very attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with “spider lugs” and original certifcate
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1959
Reference No.
1579
Movement No.
868’959
Case No.
699’406
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold pin buckle signed PP.Co
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 120,000-180,000 ∆ $127,000-191,000 €103,000-154,000 Accessories Accompanied by the original Certifcate of Origin and Guarantee and an Extract of the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1959 and its subsequent sale on July 13, 1960
Other than with love, care and respect, we do not see how the present reference 1579 could have survived close to 60 years in such spectacular condition. Introduced in 1943, Patek Philippe’s reference 1579 seductively lures the aesthete with its unusual lugs, thick bezel and large opening to the dial, making it elegantly unconventional and idiosyncratic.
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A rare reference, the present model is one of only 82 pink gold cases known, making it ultra rare. The sharp lugs and crisp hallmarks are elements that make us believe that the case was most probably never polished, making the present chronograph one of the best examples to grace the auction market. Thanks to its unusual faceted lugs, reference 1579 has been dubbed “spider lugs” by collectors. The model responds particularly badly to polishing, as even the lightest intervention dulls its sharp angles. The hallmarks on the lower right lug and top lef lug are incredibly crisp and can be perfectly seen even without the aide of a loupe. The dial is also preserved in excellent condition and is ftted with applied pink gold Arabic and square-facetted hour markers and an outer tachymeter scale. The enamel remains perfectly raised. Adding to the desirability of the watch is the original Patek Philippe Certifcat of Origin and Guarantee that accompanies it. Superlative condition, cachet and beauty make the present reference 1579 one of the true untouched grails for the connoisseur.
29/03/18 16:41
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1579 “Spider Lugs with Original Certifcate”
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199.
The only known, large and very attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with silver two-tone dial and Breguet numerals
There are certain elements that individually add to a vintage timepiece’s rarity and desirability: a prestigious maker, a large diameter, a pink gold case, a two-tone dial, the signature of a distinguished retailer or Breguet numerals to name just a few. Imagine a single timepiece that merges all these elements into one, resulting in what is most probably one of the most beautiful vintage chronographs to have ever graced a human wrist, and you obtain the present Patek Philippe reference 530. Launched in 1937, Patek Philippe’s reference 530 remains one of the rarest and largest vintage chronograph models manufactured by the frm, its large 36.5mm diameter being as relevant today as it was 80 years ago.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 530 “Two-Tone Dial with Breguet Numerals”
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199.
The only known, large and very attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with silver two-tone dial and Breguet numerals
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1949
Reference No.
530
Movement No.
867’647
Case No.
511’612
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13”, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold pin buckle signed PPCo
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 400,000-800,000 $423,000-847,000 €343,000-686,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1949 with Breguet numerals and subsequent sale on July 14, 1950. Literature Reference 530 is illustrated in Patek Philippe Wristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, p. 265.
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The present pink gold reference 530 is not only extremely rare per se but it is one of only two known models to feature Breguet numerals (as confrmed by the Extract from the Archives). The other model nevertheless is housed in yellow gold (with a movement number only 2 numbers apart from the present model and sold by Phillips in May 2017) making this timepiece truly unique. Adding even greater desirability to this timepiece is the Hausmann & Co. signature on the lower section of the dial. Founded in Rome in 1794 by Ernst Hausmann and Hermann Frielingsdorf, Hausmann & Co. is one of Patek Philippe’s most prominent retailers in Italy. The unrestored dial has developed a charismatic patina with shades of vanilla in its center. The enamel signature is crisp, with the comma and accent on the E of Genève present. The case is full and retains its original proportions, highlighted by the sharp edges of the lugs and the crisp hallmarks. Fresh to the market, this incredibly attractive and rare Patek Philippe reference 530 is made of the same fabric that dreams are made of and will certainly be a crown jewel in any collection.
29/03/18 16:42
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 530 “Two-Tone Dial with Breguet Numerals”
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200.
A rare and attractive platinum rectangular wristwatch with diamond-set fared sides and silvered dial, formerly the property of Maurice Chevalier
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1959
Reference No.
2554
Movement No.
977’393
Case No.
696’399
Model Name
“Manta Ray”
Material
Platinum and diamonds
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9-90, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum mesh bracelet, max length 175mm, further accompanied by a leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum folding clasp for the bracelet in platinum
Dimensions
41mm Length, 26mm Width
Signed
Case, dial,movement and bracelet signed
and platinum pin buckle for the leather strap
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $26,500-52,900 €21,400-42,900 Maurice Chevalier
Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1959 with a platinum case set with 22 baguette-cut diamonds for a total of 1.03 ct. and platinum bracelet, and its subsequent sale on July 11, 1961.
The present reference 2554 is nicknamed the “Manta Ray” thanks to its harmonious and fuid lines, evocative of the elegance of the princess of the seas. So infuential and powerful is this design that when we think of the well-known modern Patek Philippe reference 5100, also referred to as the 10-day, we can trace its roots back to this model . Without any doubt, the case of the 5100, made to celebrate the year 2000, reinterpreted the dynamic, curved forms on the original 2554.
An exceedingly rare reference in any metal, it’s especially rare in platinum with matching and correct platinum bracelet, and its rarity is elevated to a diferent level thanks to the baguette diamonds gracing the case, of which only 4 models are known to date. The tapered baguette diamonds set inside the fared sides of the case is highly unusual, and illustrates incredible crafsmanship. The present “Manta Ray” was part of the collection of celebrated French singer cum actor Maurice Chevalier. Ofered for the frst time in 2013 as part of the thematic sale of Mr. Chevalier’s collection, the watch case was set at the time with emeralds, but the new owner then reverted back to the original diamond setting of the watch (as confrmed by the Patek Philippe Extract). The 9-90 caliber giving life to the Manta Ray is a piece of art in its own right: a rectangular movement stamped with the Geneva seal, testimony to its superlative fnish. Maurice Chevalier was a French singer and actor having risen to fame in the 1930s and performing well into the 1960s. His cinematographic career took him to Hollywood where he played with greats such Audrey Hepburn, Gary Cooper, Paul Newman and Joanne Woodward. A watch all in curves, the grace and refnement of the present timepiece along with its ultra-rarity, excellent condition and provenance present an opportunity not to be missed.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2554 Manta Ray “Maurice Chevalier”
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201.
An extremely fne and unique gilt brass solar powered dome table clock with cloisonné enamel scene depicting Vivaldi’s Four Seasons
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1976
Reference No.
1135
Movement No.
1’803’471
Model Name
“Les 4 Saisons de Vivaldi”
Material
Gilt brass and enamel
Calibre
Photo-electric cell, cal. 17-250, 29 jewels
Dimensions
210mm Height
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-150,000 $106,000-159,000 €85,700-129,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1976 and its subsequent sale on November 12, 1977 and ftted presentation box.
First produced in the 1950s, the Patek Philippe Dome Clock has been a mainstay and crown jewel within the manufacture’s line of production. Characterized by a cylindrical form and spherical top, the earliest Dome Clocks were powered by a solar movement. Today, the manufacture continues to produce a highly limited number of dome clocks for their most exclusive clientele.
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The Dome Clock not only displays beautiful art, but merges timekeeping with technological innovation. It is the perfect canvas for an artisan to showcase his or her ability to create beautiful paintings. To apply enamel on the curved panels requires extremely delicate handling and high technical ability, as enamel is particularly prone to cracking. The relatively vast space furthermore enables the artisan to exhibit a wide range of color and design. The present example is inspired by Vivaldi's Four Seasons, as confrmed by the Extract from the Archives. The background is painted with luscious varying hues, ranging from swathes of deep forest green, to rich burgundy. Each panel showcases the wilting or waning of fora, depending on the season. The fowers are scattered throughout, providing vivid pops of color. The artisan’s use of gold cloisons is particularly impressive here, given the number of delicate fowers and leaves rendered throughout the clock. Signed "EPL", the enamel work was most probably created by Elisabeth Perusset Lagger, one of Patek Philippe's best enamellers. The clock itself is preserved in astounding condition. There is no restoration to the panels, and the enamel remains intact, exhibiting its rich hues with no losses. Dome Clocks are increasingly collectible and valuable today, due to their rarity and technical superiority. To fnd one like the present example, still retaining its original ftted presentation box, is nothing short of extraordinary.
29/03/18 16:43
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1135 “Four Seasons”
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202.
PATEK PHILIPPE – An extremely fne and rare engraved gilt brass solar powered dome table clock
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1957
Reference No.
707
Movement No.
872’672
Case No.
147
Model Name
“Arabesques”
Material
Gilt brass
Calibre
Photo-electric cell, cal. 17-250, 29 jewels
Dimensions
210mm Height
Signed
Dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present clock in 1957 and its subsequent sale on January 23, 1959.
First produced in the 1950s, the Patek Philippe Dome Clock is a mainstay and crown jewel within the manufacture’s line of production. Characterized by the cylindrical form and spherical top, the earliest Dome Clocks were ftted with a mechanical movement powered by a solar panel. Housing the Patek Philippe manual caliber 17-250, a small rotatable solar panel on the top of the dome supplies energy to a storage device within, which in turn transmits energy to power the mechanical movement. In 1948 Patek Philippe opened its Electronic Division with the goal of exploring photoelectric, electronic, and nuclear timekeeping. The department is responsible for the creation of the groundbreaking solar clock, the frst of its kind. A Swiss patent was awarded to Patek Philippe for clocks ftted with photo-electric cells. Patek Philippe’s idea for a light-powered horological mechanism was to introduce additional electronic storage – an accumulator that provides the energy to wind the spring. The photoelectric cells can either store their energy electronically in the accumulator, or mechanically by winding the spring. When the mechanism is fully wound, the cells switch over to charge the accumulator. The gilt brass case of the present model has been intricately and painstakingly hand engraved with an “Arabesque” motif giving the clock a charismatic sophistication. The present model is only the 3rd known reference 707-07E to appear on the market and as such is as rare as it is attractive.
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203.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A fne and very rare solar-powered gilt brass table clock with box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1963
Reference No.
902
Movement No.
873’313
Case No.
893
Material
Gilt brass
Calibre
Photo-electric cell, cal. 17-250, 29 jewels
Dimensions
140mm High, 140mm Width, 90mm Length
Signed
Dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-6,000 $4,200-6,400 €3,400-5,100 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe ftted box and Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present clock in 1963 and its subsequent sale on July 4, 1963.
A proud representative of traditional haute horlogerie, Patek Philippe has also been very active in research and development of new technologies, may it be the BETA 21 quartz movements from the late 1960s, the Advanced Research Program started in 2005 with the use of silicon in certain movements, and of course the use of solar energy like with the present table clock.
The present clock from 1963 merges state-of-the-art technology from the 1960s with the best of mechanical watchmaking. Based on the same photo-electrical principles that power today’s communication satellites, this avant-garde table clock is powered by light. A large solar panel on the top of the case supplies energy to a storage device within which in turn transmits energy to power the movement. A battery system is also provided for back up, further illustrating how intelligent and ahead of its time this clock was. This clock, in overall excellent condition, successfully displays great technical innovation and futuristic timeless design, and would be a great addition to enhance any interior.
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204.
A lady’s exceptionally fne and highly attractive yellow gold “snake” bracelet watch with green, white and black enamel coiling, diamond-set eyes and certifcate
Manufacturer
Bulgari (Attributed to)
Year
Circa 1960
Reference No.
879
Movement No.
869’395
Case No.
871’244,
Model Name
“Serpenti”
Material
18K yellow gold and enamel
Calibre
Manual, Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 426, 16 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Translucent green, black and white enamel over textured background scales with gold outlines
Dimensions
Bracelet will ft a wrist with a circumference of approx. 150 mm.
Signed
Dial and movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, bracelet signed Bvlgari
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $52,900-106,000 €42,900-85,700
Even though Bvlgari created the « Serpenti » bracelet in the 1940s, it did not become the choice of the glitterati until the 1960s when Elisabeth Taylor was spotted on screen wearing her Bvlgari « Serpenti » in the 1963 flm Cleopatra, becoming overnight an immense success and a glamorous symbol of the “dolce vita”. A marvel of fnesse and artistic liberty, the Serpenti consists of a wrap around gold bracelet enhanced with green, white and black enamel representing the snake’s skin. The eyes are two round cut diamonds. The mouth of the snake ingeniously opens to reveal the watch’s dial. Attributed to Bvlgari as set out in a certifcate from Amanda Triossi, MA FGA, Author and Specialist on Bvlgari, Curator of all major Bvlgari Retrospective Exhibitions from 2009 to 2013, the present “Serpenti” is not only a wonderful and delicate mix of jewelry and watchmaking but a wonderful conversation piece.
Accessories Accompanied by a Certifcate from Amanda Triossi, author and specialist on Bvlgari, Curator of all major Bvlgari Retrospective Exhibitions from 2009 to 2013, attributing the watch to Bvlgari
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BVLGARI, ATTRIBUTED TO Ref. 879 “Serpenti”
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205.
MULCO – A rare and incredibly well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date and moonphases
Manufacturer
Mulco
Year
Circa 1945
Reference No.
289 101
Case No.
77
Model Name
Prima
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 187, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 ∆ $8,500-12,700 €6,900-10,300
This chronograph wristwatch with date and moonphases is distinguished by its near-pristine condition. Incredibly large for the period, it is ofered in most probably unpolished condition. Its contrasting satin and polished fnishes are remarkable, displaying how the watch lef the factory over seventy years ago. All edges are sharp to touch. Of particular note is the case number and “Fond Acier Inoxydable” text punched on the outside case back, which is crisp, deep and highly legible. The dial is also preserved in excellent condition, considering that it was housed in a case with a non-waterproof snap-on caseback.
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206.
UNIVERSAL – A fne stainless steel multi-scale chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Universal
Year
1937
Case No.
628’923
Model Name
Compur
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. UG 285, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-9,000 $6,400-9,500 €5,100-7,700 Accessories Accompanied by Universal Genève Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1937.
The present stainless steel chronograph is a wonderful example of watchmaking from the late 1930s. The design is already abandoning the “carefree” canons of the 1920s and early 1930s; it rather features a more austere style, typical of the following decade and infuenced by the turmoil of the time. The technical multi-scale dial further accentuates this militaristic vibe. The only concession to the Belle Epoque style is the Dauphine numerals which, beyond being a very rare feature, add fair to the fnal looks of the piece.
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207.
LONGINES – A very rare and unusual stainless steel oversized aviator’s wristwatch
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1935
Movement No.
4’722’684
Case No.
4’722’684
Material
Chrome
Calibre
Manual, cal. 17.26, 15 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 ∆ $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900 Accessories With Longines Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with chromium case and its subsequent sale on February 23, 1935 to the company Zipper, their agent for Poland. Literature This exact watch is illustrated in Longines - Legendary Watches by John Goldberger pp. 234-235.
An extremely attractive early example of an aviator’s writswatch, the present piece is highlighted by the superior condition of both its case and dial. An analysis of the watch shows a number of technical details specifcally designed with the fnal destination of the piece in mind. First and foremost the very large 44mm case diameter - simply gargantuan for the time - was adopted to maximize the dial size and thus the readability of the piece. The same necessity is at the base of the dial design: the large luminous numerals on black background are perfectly legible in any condition, and the inner additional hour scale would aid with navigation calculation. The soldered lugs are instead dictated by the strong stress an aviator’s watch - worn on top of the jacket’s cuf - undergoes during usage: the soldered lugs minimize accidental unlatching or breakage.
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208.
LONGINES – A rare and attractive stainless steel antimagnetic fy-back chronograph wristwatch with angled lugs
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1942
Reference No.
4994
Movement No.
6’295’843
Case No.
22024 and 35
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13ZN, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 ∆ $15,900-26,500 €12,900-21,400 Accessories Accompanied by Longines Extract from the Archives confrming the present watch was invoiced on August 11, 1942 to the company Ostersetzer, which was at the time Longines’ agent for Italy.
Extremely rare and beautiful, the present watch features a stunning and most probably unpolished case. The contrasting satin and polished fnishes are incredibly remarkable. Furthermore, its stunning angled lugs provide great presence on the wrist. At the time of production, the 36mm case size was relatively large for the period. This watch is powered by the widely acclaimed caliber 13ZN and ftted with a snap-on caseback. Caliber 13ZN was most notably the frst serially produced movement to incorporate a fyback function. It enabled the user to calculate time more efectively, especially when compared to a usual chronograph wristwatch. Research shows that the present watch was invoiced on 11 August 1942 to the company Ostersetzer, which was at that time Longines’ agent for Italy.
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209.
OMEGA – A fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1960
Reference No.
2998-1
Movement No.
17’302’748
Model Name
Speedmaster
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1960 and its delivery to Italy.
The Omega Speedmaster has gone down in horological history as one of the most iconic, recognizable and enduring designs. The original Speedmaster reference 2915 was in production for only two years until it was replaced in 1959 by the present model, reference 2998. It was only in production until 1962, even though models were still being delivered in 1963.
Small modifcations (diferent hands, bezels or dials) were made to reference 2998 throughout its production period, each modifcation being defned by the number afer the hyphen in the reference number inscribed in the caseback. In this case: 2998-1. This particular reference features a rare straight lugs case housing the legendary Lemania based caliber 321. It furthermore features the correct short minute markers in the minute subdial, applied Omega logo and it is ftted with a slightly later base 500 bezel. This watch has aged beautifully over time, the dial has developed a charming and attractive pumpkin color to the hands and luminous markers.
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210.
LONGINES – A rare and attractive stainless steel oversized pilot’s fyback chronograph wristwatch with central registers
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1956
Reference No.
5824
Movement No.
9’939’144
Case No.
1’412’527
Model Name
Stopseconde
Material
Stainless steel, chromium plated case back
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12.68Z, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
47mm Diameter
Signed
Dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,900-26,500 €12,900-21,400 Accessories Accompanied by Longines Certifcate of Origin and Authenticity dated May 22, 2015 confrming the piece was originally sold on October 10, 1956 to the company Hattori, Longines’ agent for Japan at the time. Literature The reference 5824 is illustrated in Longines - Legendary Watches by John Goldberger pp 278-279
The present piece delights the connoisseur of vintage timepieces both from an aesthetic point of view and from a technical one as well. Aesthetically, the canons of a pilot’s timepiece are fully followed: the large dimension and the black dial with luminous Arabic numerals for optimum readability in all conditions; the large onion crown to allow winding of the watch while wearing aviator’s gloves; the rotating bezel to allow navigational calculations. Technically, cal. 12.68Z is not only a direct ancestor of hallowed cal. 13ZN, but it furthermore features central chronographic registers disposition, a highly unusual and eye-pleasing solution which grants the watch absolute balance. The watch is named Stopseconde (Stopsecond in English) as the pusher at 2 o’clock has two functions: if pressed lightly, it stops the chronograph thus allowing for accurate readings - and further depressing it resets the chrono - thus allowing for extremely simple and fast operations, vital to a pilot.
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211.
A highly attractive and rare stainless steel pilot’s single button chronograph wristwatch with black dial, Arabic numerals and revolving bezel, made for Romanian military pilot Sireteanu Alexandri
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1937
Reference No.
6476/3811
Movement No.
5’457’387
Case No.
5’457’387
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13ZN, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 ∆ $26,500-52,900 €21,400-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by Longines Extract from the Archives confrming that the present watch was invoiced on October 1937 to the company Weissblüth, Longines’agent in Romania at that time. Further accompanied by archival papers and the unique book depicting this watch made for the Phillips thematic auction START STOP RESET in May 2016.
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With its development starting in the 1920s, the Longines in-house chronograph caliber 13ZN, is arguably one of the most beautiful chronograph movements ever developed. This legendary manual wind chronograph was in production until the beginning of the 1970s. Appointed the ofcial supplier for the International Aeronautical Federation (IAF) in 1919, Longines was a pioneer in making a wide variety of watches for pilots and military personnel, most notably the Weems and Lindbergh models. In order to keep track of their military issued watches, they created serial codes for each pilot that was given a watch. Scholarship tells us that the present single-button chronograph was made for a Romanian military pilot, Sireteanu Alexandri from the M.A.M. (Ministry of Air and Marine) unit in 1937. The black dial features large luminous Arabic numerals and hands, while the rotating bezel is also ftted with a luminous triangular arrow for clear visibility during night fights. Interestingly, this chronograph is one of the earliest models ever made with a revolving bezel. The present watch is an excellent, original example of a large vintage Longines chronograph, further enhanced by its rarity and superb condition. Fitted with the legendary 13ZN, the case and movement number are perfectly matched. This watch is believed to be one of only so many made, and is sure to make a great addition to any collection of fne timepieces.
29/03/18 16:46
LONGINES Ref. 6476 “Romanian Air Force”
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212.
An extremely rare and oversized stainless steel cushion shaped diver’s wristwatch with black dial
Manufacturer
Panerai
Year
Circa 1955
Reference No.
6152-1
Case No.
124’673
Model Name
Luminor
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Rolex 618, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Panerai pin buckle
Dimensions
50mm Diameter
Signed
Case and movement signed Rolex, dial and buckle signed Panerai, case back inscribed G. F. No. 5
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 ∑ $52,900-106,000 €42,900-85,700
Since its founding in 1860 by Giovanni Panerai (1825-1987), the frm Ofcine Panerai has been known for precision instruments notably their professional dive watches and compasses. At the turn of the 20th century, Giovanni’s grandson Guido Panerai (1873-1934) expanded the business, and became the supplier of timepieces to the Italian state.
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Requests were received from various departments including the Marina Militare (M. M.), Carabinieri (C. C.), Polizia di Stato (P. S.) and similar to the present example the Guardia di Finanza (G. F.). In order to meet the needs of technical divers, Panerai developed a luminous mixture of sulphide and radium bromide named “Radiomir”, which was used to illuminate the dial for underwater viewing. The Italian navy took possession of the frst Radiomir, reference 3646 in the late 1930s. In 1949, Panerai replaced the Radiomir with the Luminor, which used a new tritium based luminescent material. Many early Panerai models were manufactured by Rolex and outftted with movements signed by them, a relationship that lasted approximately 20 years, making these early timepieces amongst the most desirable vintage dive watches available. The reference 6152 and 6152-1 were introduced in the 1950s, with the 6152-1 having a slightly larger case and capable of housing either Rolex’s caliber 618, or the Angelus caliber 240. The present Panerai reference 6152-1 is one of 64 known examples with Rolex movement and crown guard mechanism, and one of only 33 known to have the Luminor dial. In lovely condition with later hands believed to have been ftted decades ago, the watch was issued to the Guardia di Finanza, as seen by the case back inscription “G. F. No. 5”, and one of the bestpreserved examples. For collectors of vintage timepieces, early Panerai watches add an important horological element to their collection.
30/03/18 08:35
PANERAI Ref. 6152-1 “Luminor for Guardia di Finanza”
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213.
A rare and large stainless steel wristwatch with fxed lugs, movement and case by Rolex
Manufacturer
Panerai
Year
Circa 1944
Reference No.
3646
Case No.
260’745
Model Name
“Type D”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 618, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel buckle
Dimensions
47mm Width
Signed
Case and movement signed Rolex
Estimate CHF 35,000-50,000 $37,100-52,900 €30,000-42,900
Founded in 1860 by Giovanni Panerai (1825-1897), Ofcine Panerai specialized in producing high precision instruments for the Royal Italian Navy, ranging from wristwatches to navigation tools. In the early 20th century, Panerai created Radiomir, a luminous-based powder that was eventually patented on 23 March 1916. The frm’s Radiomir technology allowed for many strides in the military industry. When applied to the dial, the compound allowed the viewer to tell the time in any weather condition by glowing in the dark. Panerai produced its frst Radiomir prototype in 1936. This well-preserved Panerai wristwatch is classifed as a “Type D”. The inside case back displays the signature “Brevetée Rolex S.A.”, along with the reference number followed by the six digit serial number. Like other “Type D” examples, the inside case back displays a decorated interior. Research shows that 211 examples are known of the reference 3646, of which only 79 examples are known as “Type D”. The present watch is notably ftted with an anonymous dial without the words “Radiomir Panerai”. Many of these watches were delivered to Germany’s commando frogmen. It is highly possible that Panerai created these dials during the war years to avoid recognition, lest the watch was found by an enemy. The numerals have aged with warm orange patina. In overall appealing condition, this Panerai has been part of an important private collection.
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PANERAI Ref. 3646 “Type D”
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214.
ROLEX – A highly rare and most beautiful stainless steel and diamond-set wristwatch with honeycomb dial, red chronometer rating and bombé lugs
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1949
Reference No.
5018
Movement No.
N84236
Case No.
608’645
Model Name
“Bombé”
Material
Stainless steel and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 9 3/4’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,900-26,500 €12,900-21,400
This medium-sized “Bombé” wristwatch is a superlative example, displaying all the features that make an outstanding timepiece. Firstly, the watch is cased in steel, but features diamond-set numerals. Such watches are far and few in between, as Rolex hardly paired stainless steel with precious stones. In addition it features a honeycomb dial with luminous dots and hands, which have stood the test of time. All luminous dots remain intact and have aged consistently with the luminous on the hands. Rarer still is the presence of the word “Ofcially” printed in red script, while “Certifed Chronometer” is rendered in black. Adding even more fair is the bombé case, with the sculpted lugs giving the watch an incredible presence on the wrist. It even retains its original Rolex Oyster crown with the brevet logo in the center. These details come together, delighting the eye with its myriad of textures and patterns.
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215.
ROLEX – A very fne stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds and black glossy dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1965
Reference No.
5513, inside caseback further stamped 5513 and I.65
Case No.
1’240’443
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-20,000 $15,900-21,200 €12,900-17,100
The Rolex Submariner is one of the models most strongly associated with the brand, recognized by even the least watchconscious individuals. Reference 5513 is the one that best epitomizes the Submariner line, as it can be considered a “fnal result” afer the experimentations of the early Submariner models. The Submariner line was launched in Basel in 1954 with reference 6204. This is the frst of a number of references which remained in production for a short time - some for just one year, others for as long as four years - indicating how the company was continuously working to update and improve on the new, very successful model. Finally, a consensus (at least about the case design) was reached in 1959 with reference 5512, followed
in 1962 by the present reference 5513, the non-chronometric brethren of the 5512. These two references remained in production for respectively 19 years (5512 was discontinued in 1978) and 27 years (5513 ended in 1989): the diference with the earlier iteration is enormous, and it indicates that fnally Rolex achieved what they considered “perfection” for the model. While the case design remained unchanged throughout the lifetime of the model, the same cannot be said about the dial: most commonly, reference 5513 features a matte dial. The frst examples, however, feature an immensely attractive glossy dial. This rare dial variant was in production until 1967 and it is perfectly exemplifed by the present piece. The rarity of this confguration and its ties to early Rolex production (indeed the glossy dial is a characteristic of other pre-1967 Rolex models as well) represent only part of the appeal of this confguration. The astounding good looks of the glossy dial are equally important to explain the collectability of the model. When the glossy dial is well preserved - such as in this instance - its aesthetic impact is simply enormous. As the name suggests, Submariners had quite a few chances of coming in contact with water. While the Oyster case has superb water-resistance capabilities, that is not true if the owner forgets to properly screw down the crown, a more than common occurrence. A little humidity inside the case is sufcient to irremediably spoil the glossy fnish of the dial, consequently it is a very rare occasion to fnd such a superbly preserved, fully original glossy dial.
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216.
An attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1983
Reference No.
6265
Case No.
7’627’871
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 557, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped R5
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Reference 6265 was launched simultaneously with reference 6263 in 1969, replacing the frst Oyster Cosmograph, reference 6240. These Cosmograph Daytonas with screw-down pushers were in production for almost 20 years, and were ofered in either stainless steel or gold. Today, reference 6265 has reached a cult-like status among collectors, due to its presence in popular culture and the media. The present watch is a later generation example, and is distinguished by the excellent condition of its case. It features sharp fnishes to the top of the lugs and a crisp case back. The luminous dots are furthermore all intact.
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700
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ROLEX Ref. 6265 Cosmograph Daytona
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217.
A fne and very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, made for the Peruvian Air Force
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1975
Reference No.
6263
Case No.
3’999’748 inside caseback stamped with repeated case number 3’999’748, caseback exterior
Today we may think that the pilots of the Peruvian Airforce were quite lucky to have been granted one of the most popular and coveted chronographs on the market but we tend to forget that Rolex’s Oyster Cosmograph is a “tool”watch, and one so reliable that the military felt it could entrust the lives of its pilots with it.
stamped 349 Model Name
Oyster Cosmograph “FAP Military Oyster Cosmograph with Chocolate Subsidiary Registers”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 7835 19, end links stamped 571, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex folding clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-160,000 $84,700-169,000 €68,600-137,000
Rolex produced watches with “Fuerza Aérea del Perú” engraved on the case back for the Peruvian Air Force. Like other “issued’ Rolex watches, the case serial number was engraved both between the lugs, and inside case back. In truly wonderful condition, the subdials have turned a striking dark chocolate “tropical” brown. The FAP engraving on the caseback is nice and crisp and the issue number 349 is still clearly visible. The Daytona reference 6263 is a sought afer sports watch and this military-issued example is sure to please the discerning connoisseur both for its condition and rarity.
Literature This exact timepiece is illustrated in Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, pp. 388-391.
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ROLEX Ref. 6263 “FAP Military Oyster Cosmograph with Chocolate Subsidiary Registers”
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218.
An exceedingly rare and beautiful stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet, retailed by Tifany & Co.
Some of the rarest, most historically important and valuable Rolex wristwatches have been sold through the American retailer Tifany & Co. The present watch featuring not only the jeweler’s signature but also a “Paul Newman” dial, is an extraordinarily rare specimen. To date no more than a handful of correct examples have appeared on the market. Few retailers have had a relationship with Rolex like Tifany & Co. has. The jeweler has proudly emblazoned its logo on a variety of Rolex wristwatches, ranging from the GMT-Master to the Cosmograph Daytona. Historically, the storied boutique has been the destination for collectors in pursuit of the fnest and most attractive wristwatches. Furthermore, Tifany & Co. has been mentioned numerous times in popular culture, ranging from literature to flm. Joanne Woodward no less purchased the now recordbreaking reference 6239 wristwatch with “exotic” dial from the retailer for her husband Paul Newman. Apart from the jeweler’s signature, the present dial confguration is identical to Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” wristwatch. Featuring a three-dimensional dial with “Art Deco style” numerals, this ivory dial has aged with warm patina. At the time of production, retailers brought the dials to a third party to stamp their dials. The precise and fne details on this example, such as the serifs on the edge of each letter are remarkable.
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30/03/18 08:38
ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Tifany & Co.”
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218.
An exceedingly rare and beautiful stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet, retailed by Tifany & Co.
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6239 inside caseback further stamped 6239
Case No.
1’988’061
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona Tifany & Co.
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 57, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.64
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed, dial further signed by retailer Tifany & Co.
Estimate CHF 200,000-400,000 $212,000-423,000 €171,000-343,000
This watch most importantly has auction provenance. Known in the watch community, it was originally consigned by the original owner to auction fve years ago and has resided in an important private collection for a number of years. Today, more than ever, provenance is particularly important in authenticating watches, demonstrating how the watch has been unaltered throughout the years, giving the buyer and collecting community a frame of reference and seal of confdence. Presented in honest and original condition, this watch also features the “ROW” stamp on the movement, indicating that it was made for the American market - an attribute that is correct for this dial confguration. Reference 6239 was the very frst model of the iconic Cosmograph Daytona family, and was produced from approximately 1963 until 1976. Available in stainless steel, 14K and 18K gold, reference 6239 was the frm’s frst chronograph with the tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel. The model was originally announced as the “Le Mans”. Yet, it was eventually named the “Daytona” afer the 24 Hours of Daytona automobile race. The rarity and honesty of the present watch, combined with its good looks, renders it one of the most exciting and beautiful examples of reference 6239s to ever appear in the public eye.
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30/03/18 08:39
ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Tifany & Co.”
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219.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A fne, very rare, and extremely attractive yellow gold wristwatch with black dial retailed by Gübelin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1953
Reference No.
96
Movement No.
722’179
Case No.
306’231, bezel hand-engraved “231” to the inside
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-400, 18 jewels, stamped twice
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
Gilt buckle
Dimensions
31mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-7,000 $4,200-7,400 €3,400-6,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming the black dial and production of the present watch in 1953 and its subsequent sale on March 19, 1954.
Reference 96 is a cornerstone of Patek Philippe production, and the frst example of what is today possibly the most elegant and distinguished line of dress watches: the Calatrava collection. Launched in 1932, it was not only the frst Calatrava, but also one of the very frst models to feature a reference number (the reference system was indeed introduced in 1932), and the frst model to apply the Bauhaus staple that “form follows function”.
Indeed there are no additional and unnecessary ornaments or decorations. The piece achieves its powerful impact thanks to clean, simple, elegant lines. By many, reference 96 is considered the model against which every and all dress watches shall be compared, a true benchmark for the category. The present example is without a doubt one of the most attractive and collectible reference 96 to recently appear on the market. Its condition alone would place it on top of a purist collector wishlist, but it is furthermore blessed by an equally well preserved black dial, moreover signed by Swiss retailer Gübelin. Black dials at the time were extremely rare, made only on request. To fnd together both a black dial and a Gübelin signature is a truly remarkable occurrence. In fact, if we considered this series of reference 96 featuring a 12-400 calibre, only seven black dial examples are known, and of these seven only three - including this fresh to the market, never before seen masterpiece - feature the Gübelin signature.
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30/03/18 08:39
220.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A very fne and attractive rectangular-shaped yellow gold wristwatch
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1952
Reference No.
2456
Movement No.
974’347
Case No.
669’883
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9-90, 18 jewels, stamped twice
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Length, 23mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-14,000 $8,500-14,800 €6,900-12,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with raised gold hour-markers in 1952 and its subsequent sale on August 27, 1952.
Reference 2456 is one of the frst examples of a new stylistic trend that blossomed in the sixties and seventies. The dial is very clean, and the watch is defned instead by the case design. Elaborated cases and minimalistic dials began to appear in the ffies, reaching the apex of their popularity over the following two decades, and then slowly fading over the eighties and nineties.
Not only the present piece is a precursor of such an important trend, but it is also ofered in astonishing well-preserved condition: its unmolested case is blessed with an even layer of oxidation, telltale sign of a watch that spent most of its life in a safe. Such a remarkable level of quality allows the beholder to properly appreciate the intended aesthetic impact of the piece. As the visual language of the watch is developed mostly via its case design, even slight polishing would have noticeably altered the fnal efect intended for the wearer. Thankfully this is not our case, a circumstance as rare as it is welcome.
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221.
A fne and attractive platinum and diamond-set rectangular wristwatch with white gold bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1951
Reference No.
1593
Movement No.
973’658, stamped HOX
Case No.
667’369, inside case rim stamped 369
Model Name
“The Hour Glass”
Material
Platinum and diamonds
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9’’90, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
14K white gold mesh bracelet, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
14K white gold deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Length
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $26,500-52,900 €21,400-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with diamond hour markers in 1951 and its subsequent sale on November 29, 1951.
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Patek Philippe’s reference 1593 is a wonderful expression of post-war exuberance. Introduced in 1944, the oversized rectangular case has a bold clean design foreshadowing a midcentury design aesthetic. Afectionately known by collectors as the Hour Glass, the pillar lugs fare outward from the center, and are delightfully curved, giving the timepiece an architectural appeal, and creating a quarter moon profle. Today, the reference 1593 is a classic amongst collectors, coveted for its large size and elegant refnement. The majority of examples were made in yellow gold with fewer in pink gold. Platinum-cased examples like the present lot are the rarest and most exclusive versions, ftted with a silver dial with hard enamel print and diamond-set hour markers. From the descendant of the original owner, the present watch is fresh to the market. It’s preserved in lovely condition with a crisp case, original dial, and an associated 14K white gold bracelet from the era. A rare opportunity, its understated elegance is sure to please the most sophisticated connoisseur.
30/03/18 08:40
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1593 “The Hour Glass”
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30/03/18 08:40
222.
An attractive and early yellow gold wristwatch with center seconds, black and red roulette date wheel and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1947
Reference No.
4467
Movement No.
G53’463
Case No.
518’506
Model Name
Datejust “Ovettone”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. A295, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold folding clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-30,000 ∆ $15,900-31,800 €12,900-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex presentation box.
In 1945, Rolex unveiled its very frst automatic chronometer wristwatch that indicated the date on an aperture on the dial. Made in celebration of the brand’s 40th anniversary, the model would evolve into one of Rolex’s most iconic models of all time. This watch is today nicknamed “Ovettone” due to its likeness to an egg. Over time, reference 4467 has become a cult favorite among collectors, representing an inedible landmark moment within Rolex’s history. This particular example has been preserved in excellent condition, featuring an eggshell-colored dial displaying an even and beautiful patina. It also features its original Rolex Oyster crown with a brevet cross in the center. Furthermore, the watch retains its roulette red and black date wheel and thin reeded bezel. It would only be later that Rolex produced the futed bezel that is associated with today’s modern Datejust.
Literature A similar example is illustrated in 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, p. 160.
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30/03/18 08:40
ROLEX Ref. 4467 “Ovettone”
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30/03/18 08:40
223.
An extremely fne, rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1943
Reference No.
130
Movement No.
863’228
Case No.
626’185, bezel further stamped “185” to the inside
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13”, 23 jewels, stamped twice
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
Pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-160,000 $84,700-169,000 €68,600-137,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1943 and its subsequent sale on April 27, 1945.
In the 1920s, Patek Philippe noticed a surge in the demand for chronograph wristwatches. At the beginning, some very small series and piece uniques were made, mostly powered by a Victorin Piguet ébauche, but by the 1930s it was clear that a serially produced model was necessary to satisfy demand. So it was then that reference 130, the frst serially produced Patek Philippe chronograph, saw the light of day.
Launched in 1934, it is powered by a heavily modifed Valjoux movement, cal. 13 130, as the 13 lignes movement was to be housed in the reference 130 case (as a matter of fact, only a few examples made before 1936 feature a diferent movement). The model was extremely successful and remained in production at least until 1964, and albeit it was manufactured for close to 30 years, the output is very limited, totaling about 1500 pieces. It was serially produced in yellow gold, pink gold and stainless steel (other metals have been used for special request pieces), with the steel version being the rarest: it is speculated about 146 examples in steel exist (about 65 known from the market). The rarity of the steel version is explained by the fact the Patek Philippe traditionally was - as it now - a high-end luxury brand, thus most of their clients opted for the more luxurious gold version, with the consequence of making the steel version the most scarce and thus, today, the most collectible. The rarity of stainless steel reference 130 is however only part of its appeal. It is undeniable that the looks of the model are extremely elegant, and at the same time robust and sporty. This is due partly to the more understated and utilitarian look of steel compared to gold, and partly to the diferent case shape of steel models. In fact, creating a steel case is a completely diferent task than creating a gold case: the diferent physical properties of the metal prevent using the same tooling machines used for gold cases. The diference is so important that Patek Philippe actually used two diferent case suppliers: Vichet for gold cases, and Wenger - a maker specialized in steel works - for steel case. As said, the result is a not-so-subtle diference in looks between gold and steel cases, the steel ones featuring sharply pointed lug ends and a more tonneau construction than gold ones. Beyond the stainless steel case, the present watch also features an extremely appealing dial. This model came with a variety of dial variations: from Arabic numerals, to Roman numerals, to Breguet numerals, passing by baton indexes (short or long), black dials, sector dials. It would in fact appear that the present dial confguration, featuring Roman numerals at 12 and 6, and oversized applied baton indexes for the remaining hours is the most difcult to come by. Only 9 other examples are known in steel with the present confguration.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 130
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224.
An exceptional, unique and well preserved platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases
No other brand can be so closely associated to perpetual calendar wristwatches than Patek Philippe. The famed Geneva brand was the frst to ofer this complication in a “series” produced wristwatch with the launch of reference 1526 in 1941. Patek Philippe’s groundbreaking reference 3448, launched in 1962, was the world’s frst self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch. Nicknamed the “Padellone” by Italian collectors, the reference is adored by collectors for its oversized, 37.5 mm diameter case with clean, angular lines and dial with perfect harmony and symmetry. According to scholarship, there were 586 examples manufactured, the majority in yellow gold, a small number in white gold, one known in pink gold and only two in platinum like the present example. In 1981, Patek Philippe discontinued the 3448, introducing the reference 3450, with a leap year indication. Only a prominent collector with high standing with the Stern family (the owners of Patek Philippe) could obtain the utmost privilege of having a special platinum cased reference 3448. It is believed the original owner of a white gold 3448 contacted Patek Philippe for this special project in 1997. This reference had been discontinued for 16 years and therefore the only way to satisfy this request was to use the existing movement from the collector’s own reference 3448 and have a brand new platinum case specially made.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3448 “Platinum Padellone”
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224.
An exceptional, unique and well preserved platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1966 (cased in platinum in 1997)
Reference No.
3448
Movement No.
1’119’056
Case No.
2’998’717
Model Name
“Padellone”
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460Q, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum PPCo pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 500,000-1,000,000 $529,000-1,060,000 €429,000-857,000 Accessories Accompanied by original dial and Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1966 and the subsequent replacement of the case with a platinum one bearing the number 2’998’717 in 1997
Patek Philippe turned to casemaker extraordinaire Jean-Pierre Hagmann (whose hallmark “JPH” is prominently stamped inside the caseback) to undertake this painstaking…and exciting task. Jean-Pierre Hagmann is most certainly the most famous casemaker in the Swiss watch industry, having worked for the majority of haute horology brands and responsible for the cases of Patek Philippe’s minute repeaters thanks to which the chimes are so singular and seraphic. The dial the watch was originally mounted with was showing strong patina, the owner of the present reference 3448 mounted it with a period correct new old stock dial with perfect and crisp hard enamel signature and numerals. The original dial is nevertheless ofered with this timepiece. The case not only impresses with its amazing condition with strong angles to the lugs but also due to the sheer hef of the platinum. This reference 3448 in platinum is only one of two known models cased in this noble metal, the other having a dial with sapphire indexes making the present model truly unique. The present watch is exceptional not only due to its unique confguration and condition but also thanks to the singular story behind its creation and a true grail for the connoisseur.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3448 “Platinum Padellone”
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225.
A rare and well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with dual time, center seconds, bracelet and Bakelite bezel
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1959
Reference No.
6542
Movement No.
DN904’381
Case No.
482’922, further stamped “III.59”
Model Name
GMT-Master “Pussy Galore”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1066, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted expandable Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 58, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant clasp, stamped 2.55
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-80,000 $63,500-84,700 €51,400-68,600 Literature For another example of a reference 6542 with Bakelite bezel see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, p. 192.
Since its release in 1954, Rolex’s GMT-Master has been one of the most successful wristwatches, and even today the modern version remains in great demand. The post war economic exuberance of the 50s lead to a golden age of the jet age with increasing numbers of travelers exploring the world. Created by the brand in conjunction with Pan American airways, the reference 6542 was Rolex’s frst dual time zone timepiece, used as a tool watch for pilots to keep track of local and home time.
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Amongst purists, the reference 6542 is perhaps the most desirable model with its strong masculine case, easily readable dial, and most importantly its rotating luminous blue and red Bakelite bezel. An early plastic made from synthetic components, Bakelite allowed Rolex to put luminous numerals on the bezel, which could be rotated, and when used in conjunction with the revolutionary red 24-hour hand, pilots could easily and simultaneously track dual time zones. Unfortunately, what in theory may work, the practical applications did not apply, with the Bakelite being fragile and the bezels easily damaged. Rolex replaced the 6542 in 1959 with the reference 1675 with the more durable metallic bezel insert. The present watch is a wonderfully-preserved example. The stunning black lacquer dial with gilt lettering and original lume plots will appeal to the most sophisticated collector. Even more outstanding is the case, which retains strong proportions and clear crisp lug bevels as delivered from the factory nearly six decades ago. The Bakelite bezel remains very nice with a small hairline through the ‘5’ hour marker, and is a window into the early years of an iconic wristwatch. In an age of jet travel and international intrigue, the reference 6542 was a watch for all sophisticates - its international allure lead the producers of the 1964 James Bond flm, “Goldfnger”, to outft the lead female criminal with the identical model GMTMaster. This extraordinary watch has remained close to factory specs since its manufacture in 1959. It is a watch that can be appreciated by all, and represents a rare opportunity for the discerning collector.
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ROLEX Ref. 6542 GMT-Master “Pussy Galore”
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226.
An extremely attractive and most probably unique yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, champagne dial and original certifcate, hangtag and correspondence
The Patek Philippe reference 2499, in any dial or case combination, can be considered one of, if not the most iconic and desirable trophy watches to crown any collection. However, an example fresh to the market with a unique champagne dial in mint condition accompanied with its original Certifcate of Origin and correspondence elevates its collectability to Himalayan heights. This yellow gold reference 2499/100 with champagne dial or “dorĂŠâ€? was made upon special order and is accompanied by a series of correspondence between the original owner, the retailer and Patek Philippe between 1979 and 1981 regarding the order and even more amusingly a long series of epistolary exchanges where the owner expresses his ultimate dissatisfaction (in a very understated manner) in receiving the watch with one strap mounted back to front! In fact the owner was so upset that the watch remained almost completely unworn and the strap remaining back to front, his curse being transformed today to a blessing for the collector who will own an unmolested timepiece.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2499/100 “Special Order Champagne Dial”
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226.
An extremely attractive and most probably unique yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, champagne dial and original certifcate, hangtag and correspondence
Reference 2499 was produced between 1951 (replacing the iconic reference 1518) and 1985, in a limited number of approximately 349 examples. Its large 37.5mm case, down turned stepped lugs, beautifully balanced dial layout and superlative complicated movement stamped with the Geneva seal make this reference one of the most exciting watches to leave the Patek Philippe ateliers. Patek Philippe initially used famed case maker, Vichet, to manufacture the 2499’s case, however early on switched their production to the Wenger atelier. The Vichet case had pronounced, elongated lugs, and a fat case back, while the Wenger case featured a beautifully domed caseback with more compact lugs, as found on the present timepiece.
Patek Philippe evolved the dial designs as well, and can be categorized into the following four series: • First series: distinguished by square chronograph pushers, applied Arabic numerals and tachymeter scale. • Second series: frst to use round chronograph pushers, either applied Arabic numerals or baton indexes, and tachymeter scale. • Third series: round chronograph buttons, applied baton indexes and outer seconds divisions, the tachymeter scale has been removed. • Fourth series: to which the present example belongs, round chronograph pushers, applied baton indexes and out seconds division, with sapphire crystal, reference 2499/100.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2499/100 “Special Order Champagne Dial”
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226.
An extremely attractive and most probably unique yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, champagne dial and original certifcate, hangtag and correspondence
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1979
Reference No.
2499/100
Movement No.
869’495
Case No.
2’779’148
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’Q, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 800,000-1,600,000 ∑ $847,000-1,690,000 €686,000-1,370,000 Accessories Accompanied by original Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin confrming the champagne dial, Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1979 and subsequent sale on December 19, 1979, hangtag and correspondence between the owner, the retailer and Patek Philippe
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The present timepiece, in superb condition, comes mounted with its original strap which has remained mounted back to front, original certifcate indicating the “doré” or champagne dial, hang tag as well as the diferent exchanges between the original owner, “Watches of Switzerland”, the London based retailer and Patek Philippe allowing us to delve partially in the relationship between the three parties involved in commissioning and creating this superb icon. The case displays strong defnition to the lugs, and wellpreserved hallmarks, and the wonderful dial with its unusual champagne color is perfectly crisp and devoid of marks. The reference 2499 is a milestone in the history of wristwatches and when a unique piece in such untouched condition appears on the auction room for the frst time it is an opportunity that the discerning collector cannot let go.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2499/100 “Special Order Champagne Dial”
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Breguet – A fne and rare yellow gold jump hour pocketwatch
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1928
Movement No.
1820
Case No.
1820
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 17”2/3, 17 jewels
Dimensions
45.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case numbered, dial and movement signed and
numbered Estimate CHF 3,000-5,000 $3,200-5,300 €2,600-4,300 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Certifcate confrming the sale of the present timepiece on September 29, 1928 for 3,300 French Francs to Mr. Braun Literature A similar watch is illustrated in Breguet - Watchmakers Since 1775 by Emmanuel Breguet, p. 316.
The apparent serenity of the dial hides a playful and quirky complication: the jump hour with wandering minutes. An epitome of the Art Deco era, Breguet made these jump hour watches in both pocket and wristwatch form from about the mid twenties til the mid fourties.
One genius watchmaker was responsible for the rise of jump hour watches during that era, Robert Cart, who made these movements for the likes of Gübelin, Vacheron Constantin and of course Breguet. The present Breguet’s central dial rotates in 60 minutes to indicate the minutes which are indicated via an aperture on the rotating dial jumps when on the twelve o’clock mark. Even though Swiss born, Abraham Louis Breguet established himself as one of the world’s greatest watchmakers in France and his successors were extremely proud of this French heritage, as such, the dial, movement and case are inscribed with the word France. An interesting twist is the BREVETE S.G.D.G inscribed on the dial meaning the movement was patented but the responsibility of the French government was waived in the event the patented object was not functioning as it should (Sans Garantie Du Gouvernement). The present watch is a perfect child of a period of intense creative liberty and a must have for the collector of alternative time displays.
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Breguet – A fne and rare white and pink gold pocketwatch chronograph
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1938
Movement No.
3779
Case No.
B3779
Material
18K white and pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 952, 17 jewels
Dimensions
50mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Certifcate confrming production of the present watch in 1938 and its subsequent sale on December 7, 1943.
Another extraordinary piece from the house of Breguet, the present chronograph surprises by its vivid modernism. The large fat bezel, pink gold rims of the caseback and bezel as well as the bow provide a dash of panache to an already enticing timepiece. The dial is a study in post modern design with its succession of Arabic numerals and indexes surrounded by the blue tachymeter scale. The dial has furthermore turned a delicious and harmonious shade of vanilla. The subdials at 12 o’clock (minutes counter) and 6 o’clock (continuous seconds) are reminiscent of pilots’ chronographs, yet rendered in a sophisticated and visually enchanting “dress” pocket watch. A timepiece with such a potent mix of elegance, glamour and famboyance is a rare treasures and as such this watch would have its place in the collection of the debonaire collector.
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A rare and attractive yellow gold minute repeating chronograph open faced pocketwatch
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1979
Movement No.
1239
Case No.
1239
Model Name
1239
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 16”, 37 jewels
Dimensions
52mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Certifcate confrming sale of the present watch on December 13, 1979 for 72,000 French Francs to the company Wolfers
A perfect embodiment of Breguet’s design acumen and technical mastery the present chronograph minute repeating pocket watch is audaciously unconventional and idiosyncratic, considering it was made in 1979. It is interesting to note that in the late 1970s, amidst the quartz crisis afecting the watchmaking industry, there were still brands who had maintained the expertise to make complicated timepieces and collectors with the passion to buy them. This is why the present Breguet stands out amongst this era’s production. Not only is it a highly complicated mechanical masterpiece, but its ultimate audacity resides in the fact that it is a pocketwatch. The chimes of the repeater are crisp and loud, the chronograph has the rare feature of being “instantaneous”, meaning the hand of the minutes counter jumps instantaneously to the next increment as soon as the chronograph seconds hand passes 60 seconds adding an element of complexity to the movement. The enticing design, complicated movement and overall excellent condition of this watch ofer a rare opportunity to the collector looking for a highly complicated timepiece at a fraction of what it would cost had it been a wristwatch.
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Breguet “Minute Repeating Chronograph”
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An incredibly rare and attractive diver’s wristwatch with large luminous indexes, date and Bakelite bezel
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1963
Case No.
1613
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. AS 1581, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Tropic
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case numbered, dial signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $42,300-84,700 €34,300-68,600 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Certifcate confrming production of the present watch in 1963 and its subsequent sale on July 10, 1964
A unicorn would be the best word to describe this elusive and alluring Breguet divers’ watch. Most notably known for its elegant timepieces with guilloché dials or the adventure laden Type XX pilot chronographs made originally for the French navy, Breguet nevertheless dipped its horological toe in the deep waters of diving instruments in the mid 1960s. One of the rarest dive watches to be produced regardless of brand, the present timepiece presents all the design elements of vintage dive watches, such as a rotating Backelite bezel, no crown guards, straight lugs and large luminous indexes for ease of underwater legibility. Scholarship indicates that Breguet made less than 60 dive watches such as the present model with varying dial designs including a version with smaller indexes and another with Arabic numerals. It is always with a sense of exaltation that one discovers a timepiece unknown to the market. The present Breguet diver’s watch is only the fourth to ever grace the rooms of an international auction house. We are delighted to ofer you this extraordinary example. Preserved in superb condition with a strong case, delightful Bakelite bezel and impeccable dial, the present lot lures us by its unique position in the Breguet creations and by its complete idiosyncrasy making it one of the rarest and most desirable of dive watches and as such a must have in any collection of rare vintage timepieces.
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Breguet “Divers Watch”
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An extremely rare and unusual stainless steel triple calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1972
Case No.
4’885’446
Model Name
N°586
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 88, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case numbered, dial signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-120,000 $63,500-127,000 €51,400-103,000 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Certifcate confrming production of the present watch in 1972 and its subsequent sale on September 26, 1977 for 2’500 French Francs
Breguet wristwatches from the mid-20th century are captivating, as they are as diverse as they are rare. Diverse, as Breguet sometimes strayed away from the visual codes it is known for, notably coin edge cases, guilloché dials and the famed Breguet hands, and delving into more adventurous grounds. Rare, because during this period Breguet was making only a handful of timepieces, the majority of them being the Type XX chronographs.
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The present lot in stainless steel is a rarity in Breguet’s mid20th century wristwatch collection since most known examples of Breguet chronographs with calendar and moonphases are cased in gold. The present Breguet triple calendar, moonphase chronograph shares certain features with other similar pieces from horological powerhouses such as Rolex and Patek Philippe whilst perfectly retaining its own strong personality and French fair. This seductive and unusual Breguet shares a similar movement to Rolex’s Dato Compax model, also known as the “Jean-Claude Killy”. While the Rolex models featured a Valjoux 72C caliber, Breguet used the Valjoux caliber 88, which is a modifed 72C caliber with additional moonphase complication. The dial layout and balance also draws comparison to one of last century’s most iconic horological designs: Patek Philippe’s 1518 and 2499 references. The large case of this Breguet n° 586 with its strong lugs and convex bezel is ftted with a graphic dial where one can notice the monochromatic elegance is playfully ofset by the blue date print and similar blue date indication hand. The result is a practical, highly complicated wristwatch with an elegant and sophisticated appeal. Preserved in superb condition, the present Breguet would be a jewel in the crown of the savvy collector.
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Breguet “Triple Calendar Chronograph”
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A. Lange & Söhne
Walter Lange loved his great-grandfather’s watch company. Founded in 1845, the manufacture established an entire watchmaking culture and industry in Glashütte. The brand quickly became Germany's fnest watchmaker, frst creating dependable, easy-to-repair watches before going on to produce some of the world's fnest complicated pocket watches, including Grande Sonnerie watches, tourbillon watches and Grande Complications.
He returned to Glashütte to rescue his family’s business afer the fall of the Berlin Wall. Five years later, in 1994, he presented the frst A. Lange & Söhne revival collection—four watches powered by four new mechanical movements displaying an exceptional level of technical innovation and fnishing, a high standard that has defned every single watch the manufacture has produced since its re-launch. Watches signed Lange would once again become synonymous with ingenuity and quality.
Walter grew up admiring and learning about watches, and inevitably joined the company as a watchmaker himself, sitting behind a bench much like every bench in the building, and working on pieces that bore his family’s name.
Take the next four watches. All of them are powered by spectacular in-house calibres, which once produced, are hand-decorated by the manufacture’s skilled hands. But there is much more to A. Lange & Söhne’s watchmaking than highlevel fnishing. The company’s focus remains on improving the performance of its high-end mechanical watches, and introducing novel solutions whenever possible. Quite simply, these are some of some of the fnest examples of modern horology.
In 1948, he watched helplessly as the company was confscated by the Soviet Union and almost overnight, the manufacture was turned into a factory of cheaply made watches. Walter moved to West Germany, where he remained, working on other people’s watches, until 1989.
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232.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE – A fne and rare limited edition honey gold wristwatch with moonphases, made to commemorate the 165th anniversary of A. Lange & Söhne in 2010
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2010
Reference No.
212.050
Movement No.
84’215
Case No.
194’204, No. 099/265
Model Name
Homage to F. A. Lange 1815 Moonphase
Material
18K honey gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. L948.2, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K honey gold A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 ∑ $15,900-26,500 €12,900-21,400
In 2010, Walter Lange introduced the F. A. Lange 1815 Moonphase, as a tribute to both his great grandfather Ferdinand Adolph Lange (the frm’s founder), and as a celebration of their 165th anniversary. The frm produced three commemorative timepieces each using their proprietary 18K honey gold alloy. In addition to the 1815 Moonphase (265 pieces), A. Lange & Söhne also released a Tourbograph Pour le Mérite (50 pieces) and a Lange 1 Tourbillon (150 pieces). The proprietary honey gold alloy is harder and more durable making it more resistant to scratching, while adding a warm hue to the timepiece.
In addition to the unusual gold alloy, A. Lange & Söhne engineers developed a highly precise moonphase gear train in which as long as the watch was kept wound, no correction to the moon would be necessary for 1,000 years. The present example, number 99, is in excellent original condition. Hardly ever worn, it maintains the classical clean lines for which A. Lange & Söhne is known. This lovely wristwatch is a rare opportunity to own an uncommon timepiece from a manufacture renowned for their technical prowess and advancements, as seen both in their gold alloy and specialized movement.
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Since 1994, Children Action, a Swiss foundation, brings tangible help to children and young people in need all over the world. The projects are evaluated based on feasibility, quality, efectiveness and optimized costs criteria allowing to measure the impact and concrete results for the benefciaries. Today the Foundation is active in 8 countries (Argentina, Burma, Cameroon, Peru, Romania, Switzerland, Sri Lanka and Vietnam) through 13 projects, providing surgical treatments, working with children at risk of suicide and their families, developing programs focusing on mother/ child early stage relationships, promoting education and nutrition. To date more than 84,500 children and young adults have benefted from the programs, experiencing real change in their lives and concrete benefts for their future. Children Action has no administrative costs as its Founder personally covers all of them. Every franc donated goes thus exclusively to the programs. Moreover, thanks to a powerful leverage efect enhanced by key partnerships, each 1 $ received generates 3 $.
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Bernard Sabrier, Founder of Children Action: “Children Action is proud to be associated with such a prestigious brand as A. Lange & Söhne and to beneft from the total proceeds of this unique piece. This amount will be allocated to the surgical programs of the Foundation which have already enabled 13,148 operations.”
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233.
A unique and highly attractive stainless steel wristwatch with independently stoppable jumping center seconds and black enamel dial
Walter Lange (1924-2017) is undoubtedly one of the most important fgures of modern watchmaking. Great grandson of Ferdinand Adolph Lange, the founder of the company in 1845, Walter Lange, along with another genius of his time Günter Blümlein brought back German watchmaking with a bang in 1994 with the rebirth of A. Lange & Söhne. A. Lange & Söhne immediately obtained critical and commercial success, connoisseurs lauding the elegant designs and complex movements. A certain number of the brand’s timepieces have reached iconic status in just a few short years: Lange 1, Pour le Merite Tourbillon, Datograph and more recently the Zeitwerk to name just a few. The passing of Walter Lange early 2017 was not only a huge loss for the industry and the company but even more for the men and women who had been working with him throughout the years. The teams decided to pay homage to this great man by creating a timepiece that he had been thinking about for quite some time, a watch that was originally conceived by his greatgrandfather and granted one of Germany’s frst patents in 1877: a timepiece with independently stoppable jumping center seconds and separate seconds subdial.
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A. LANGE & SÖHNE “Unique Steel 1815 Homage to Walter Lange”
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233.
A unique and highly attractive stainless steel wristwatch with independently stoppable jumping center seconds and black enamel dial
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2018
Reference No.
297.078
Movement No.
133’411
Case No.
Stamped Unique Piece
Model Name
1815 “Homage to Walter Lange”
Material
Stainless Steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. L1924, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions
40.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate No estimate can be provided given the uniqueness of the watch and the noble nature of the charitable cause. ∙ Lot offered without reserve Accessories Accompanied by ftted box and Certifcate.
In less than one year the watchmakers and engineers from Glashütte achieved the feat of creating a brand new movement with jumping seconds: the “1815 Homage to Walter Lange” was born. The newly developed movement has a special caliber designation: L1924. It refers to Walter Lange’s birth year. Additionally, the frst three digits of the reference number 297.078 recall his date of birth, 29 July. Presented at the Salon International de Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in January 2018, this new model is made in a limited edition of 145 pieces in white gold, 90 pieces in pink gold, 27
pieces in yellow gold and the present unique piece in stainless steel and black grand feu enamel dial. We can’t underline enough the uniqueness of steel in A. Lange & Söhne’s production. Historically, haute horlogerie brands have always housed their creations in noble metals, stainless steel always being the exception and making these examples extremely rare. A. Lange & Söhne created a handful of, extremely coveted, timepieces in stainless steel in the late 1990s and early 2000s, the steel Lange 1 made for retailers Wempe and Pisa come to mind, along with a unique Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite. However, in the past decade and a half we do not know of any model made in steel by the famed Saxon brand, making the existence of the present 1815 “Homage to Walter Lange” an exception in all senses. The present timepiece is luring and seductive thanks not only to the complex mechanism collectors and enthusiasts have come to expect from A. Lange & Söhne as well as its serene black enamel dial but also what it represents: a tribute to a man who participated in bringing Saxon and German watchmaking back and a genuine scholar and gentleman. The proceeds of the sale of the present unique chronograph will be donated to the Children Action Foundation, a charity committed to the physical and mental well-being of disadvantaged children and young people around the world. To date more than 80,000 children have directly benefted from one of its projects. The motto of the foundation, that was set up in 1994 by the Swiss businessman Bernard Sabrier, is “Every child has a right to childhood”.
Walter Lange
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A. LANGE & SÖHNE “Unique Steel 1815 Homage to Walter Lange”
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234.
A very fne platinum dual time wristwatch with date, power reserve indication, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 2010
Reference No.
116.025
Movement No.
57’411
Case No.
168’701
Model Name
Lange 1 Zeitzone
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. L031.1, 54 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum A. Lange & Sohne pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,200-42,300 €17,100-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne undated guarantee issued by U.S.A. retailer Westime, instruction booklet, leather document holder, ftted leather presentation box and outer packaging
The Lange 1 can be considered as a “statement of intent” from A. Lange & Söhne. It was one of the four pieces originally released in 1994, when A. Lange & Söhne was re-launched, and it features all the traits which are now eponymous with A. Lange & Söhne: above all, the large double-window date indication and the asymmetrical dial disposition.
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The present iteration of the Lange 1 increases the ofer of the model with one of the most useful complications available: a second time zone. The most common way of indicating a second time zone is a second central hand, such as seen on the Rolex GMT or the vintage Patek Philippe reference 2597, or the modern Patek Philippe Pilot reference 5524. A. Lange & Söhne, however approached the second time zone in a completely diferent way, dedicating an entire subsidiary dial - the one at 4 o’ clock - to the local time, and also adding a city ring to the outer rim of the dial. The small arrow in the local time dial points at the city the local time is currently set on. This solution allows for an outstanding aesthetic impact of the piece, which acquires somewhat of a “world time” vibe, and it is enormously practical. When analyzing the Zeitzone, it is actually apparent how Lange placed practicality above all else, and how the aesthetics of the piece are a consequence of this choice: form truly follows function, rather than the other way around, both under a visual point of view and also under an operational one. Visually, beyond the already mentioned city ring, the watch features day/night indications for both local and home time, avoiding the very common issue of confusing night and day times at the home location. Operationally, the piece features a quick-setting pusher at 10 o’clock, and a second pusher at 8 o’clock. This second button allows for quick-setting of the date, extremely useful in case the date at the destination does not match the one at the departing location.
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A. LANGE & SÖHNE Ref. 116.025 Lange 1 Zeitzone
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235.
A highly attractive and rare platinum perpetual calendar fyback chronograph wristwatch with leap year indicator, power reserve, moonphases, and platinum bracelet
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2006
Reference No.
410.425 E
Movement No.
48’289
Case No.
158’107
Model Name
Datograph Perpetual
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. L952.1, 45 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum A. Lange & Söhne bracelet measuring 200mm max
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum A. Lange & Söhne double deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-100,000 $74,100-106,000 €60,000-85,700 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee stamped by U.S.A. retailer Betteridge Jewelers and dated November 11, 2006, instruction booklet, leather document holder, sale tag, setting pin, ftted leather presentation box and outer packaging.
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Launched during the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in 2006, the Datograph Perpetual in platinum remained in production until 2011, and since, very few examples have appeared publicly, especially with an accompanying platinum bracelet. The elegant display includes a 60-second counter and a 30-minute counter, as well as indications for the day of the week, month, leap year, and day/night. This model was the frst wristwatch manufactured by A. Lange & Söhne to combine a chronograph with a perpetual calendar, and has the additional useful fyback function, which is activated with the top chronograph pusher. The brand’s signature, oversized date apertures are opposite the comparatively smaller moonphase window. Turning the watch over, one can glimpse the 556 individually hand-fnished components, including the free-hand engraved balance cock and delicate “Glashütte” waves throughout. The solid rhodium silver dial creates a pleasant monochromatic efect when paired with the 41mm platinum case and bracelet. The hint of blue at the day-night indicator and the moonphase aperture provide a subtle complement to the blued steel hands found within the two sub-dials. The watch’s most impressive feat remains the contrasting elements of a delicate dial design and the striking weight of the case. Further enhancing its appeal is the hardly ever seen, factory bracelet made of platinum that was specially ordered by the original owner at great expense. Sumptuous, luxurious, and exquisitely crafed both inside and out, this example of the Datograph Perpetual will delight the seasoned collector.
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A. LANGE & SÖHNE Ref. 410.425E Datograph Perpetual
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236.
ROLEX – A very fne, rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with pink dial, retailed by Beyer
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1940
Reference No.
4051
Movement No.
1285
Case No.
052’652
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 10 1/2”H, 15 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 3,000-5,000 $3,200-5,300 €2,600-4,300
In a Rolex market dominated by professional watches (Daytona, Submariner, GMT…), it is a pleasant surprise to rediscover the mastery Rolex had, already in the frst half of the past century, also on less specialized timepieces. The deceptively simple watch here ofered is the perfect occasion to point out how much attention to detail - both in design and in its execution Rolex poured even in their early creations.
In the present instance the case is a remarkable piece of design, characterized by the sculpted lugs and the alternation of satin fnish on the band and side of the lugs with the polish fnish of bezel and lugs’ top. The dial itself, well preserved, impresses with its vibrant pink tone, in stark contrast with the steel case, and it is embellished by the metallic-fnished Roman and baton numerals. The name “Beyer Zürich” indicates how this timepiece was originally sold by one of the most important watch retailers in Switzerland, and adds an additional layer of appeal to this remarkable timepiece.
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237.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A rare and fne yellow gold wristwatch with center seconds, scroll lugs and ftted presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1952
Reference No.
1491
Movement No.
701’787
Case No.
672’840
Model Name
“Riccio” or “Fernandel”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27SC, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1952 and its subsequent sale on December 15, 1952 and ftted presentation box.
Reference 1491 was one of those extremely charismatic watches made by Patek Philippe in the 40s. Not immediately obvious at frst sight, the avant garde design shows all its splendor and originality when looked at the side. The unusual and playful scroll lugs give the watch an inimitable disruptive look much more in line with designs from the 1950s.
Launched in 1940, reference 1491 had been produced in two versions, the frst series housing calibre 12-120 and featuring small seconds, the second series presented in 1943, housing calibre 27SC with center sweep seconds but always with its very distinctive lugs. Nicknamed by collectors “Riccio” meaning lock as the scroll lugs are similar to a curly lock of hair, the reference 1491 is also nicknamed “Fernandel” by French collectors as the famous comedian was known to proudly wear this reference. However, reference 1491 is not just about creativity and design. The caliber 27SC housed within is in the purest Geneva tradition with its curving bridges and superb fnish as testifed by the Geneva seal stamped on it. The present watch embodies avant garde fair and panache. This is only the 29th reference 1491 with calibre 27SC to appear on the market, and it defnitely has its place in a well curated collection.
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238.
ROLEX – A fne and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with date, blue dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1978
Reference No.
1680
Movement No.
D532’684
Case No.
5’429’380
Model Name
Submariner
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm plus diver’s extension
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex twinlock folding deployant
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
clasp further stamped 3.71 plus diver’s extension
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,200-42,300 €17,100-34,300
The Rolex Submariner has become synonymous for a rugged “tool watch” originally made for divers but considered today as the perfect go-to versatile timepiece. Launched in 1967, reference 1680 was the frst Submariner to feature a date. As a tool watch, the majority were made in stainless steel, with the frst examples displaying the depth rating in meters frst followed by the equivalent in feet. Furthermore, these models featured the name of the model,
Submariner, in red leading collectors to nickname the model “Red Submariner”. It was also Rolex’s frst divers’ watch to come in precious gold. The present watch with its all yellow gold livery, blue bezel and striking sunray pattern blue dial whose color goes from dark blue to purple depending on the angle of light is no more a tool watch but a timepiece made for the explorers of the urban jungle whose bespoke Japanese shoes alternatively tread the concrete pavements, the accelerator of a fast German car and lush hotel carpets in Hong Kong, Paris or Dubai.
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239.
ROLEX – A fne, very attractive and unusual yellow gold wristwatch with center seconds, date, textured bezel, dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1973
Reference No.
1513, inside caseback stamped 1503
Case No.
3’561’316
Model Name
Datejust
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold textured Rolex bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K gold textured Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-9,000 $6,400-9,500 €5,100-7,700
The seventies were a fascinating decade for watchmaking. Infuences from the space age and the more carefree spirit of the time had a profound impact on watch design. The dial becomes more and more devoid of graphics, reaching some extremes where the brand signature is the only printed detail found on it. The case instead takes the opposite trend and becomes the true canvas on which watch designers let their imagination run free. Geometric, angular shapes are abundantly used together with textured fnish, multi-colored metals and hard stones.
With this in mind, it is obvious how the present piece is one of the most outstanding interpreters of this era: the entire watch is defned by the elaborate fnish to both case, dial and bracelet. Interestingly, while the pattern of dial and bezel complement each other, the bracelet ofers a diferent design, showing somewhat of an Arabic infuence thanks to the “tapestry-style” fnish. Notwithstanding the enormous amount of work involved with the production of such a remarkable piece, the fnal efect is simply stunning. Not only is this watch a remarkable collector’s piece; it is also a true time machine capable of transporting its wearer to a much diferent era.
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240.
A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1981
Reference No.
6263
Case No.
6’608’182
Model Name
Oyster Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 73350, end links stamped 571, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp,
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
stamped 78350 G
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $26,500-52,900 €21,400-42,900
Accessories Accompanied by Rolex pouch.
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Today, Rolex’s Daytona chronograph is one of the most sought afer vintage watches available to collectors, and within this rarifed group the reference 6263 “Big Red” is one of the most desirable. Introduced in 1969, along with its companion the reference 6265, the pair replaced the frst “Oyster” chronograph, the reference 6240. Both models had a clean modern line, with a slightly larger case and featured the now famous screw down pushers. The 6263 sported a black acrylic bezel insert, while the 6265 came equipped with an engraved stainless steel insert. The present example manufactured in 1981 is a variant from the norm, while the case is marked 6263, it features the metallic bezel insert of the 6265. These inserts were easily interchangeable, and it is known that buyers could request a bezel change when the watch was originally purchased. Fresh to the market and being sold by the original owner, this lovely example has a crisp clean case with its original fnish perfectly intact as it lef the factory. The soleil-fnished silver dial is stunning, contrasting nicely with the black subsidiary dials. Whether with acrylic or metallic bezel insert, the 6263 is a sporty chronograph timepiece, and this example will appeal to the most discriminating collectors.
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ROLEX Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
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241.
A rare and attractive pink gold wristwatch with roulette date and bracelet, retailed by Joyeria Riviera
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1955
Reference No.
6305
Movement No.
45’701
Case No.
71’001
Model Name
Datejust
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 775, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 2.56
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 ∆ $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700
The present reference 6305 is part of the early Datejust models still featuring a narrow stripped bezel. The roulette date, alternating the even numbers in red to black for uneven numbers, is another distinctive feature that unfortunately disappeared with the later generations. Launched as a Jubilee celebration, the bracelet kept this name until today. In pink gold with a pink dial, this precious example was retailed through the Cuba based jewelry Joyeria Riviera. Located in the luxury “Galiano Boulevard” in Havana, Joyeria Riviera was part of the very few retailers allowed to have their name printed on the dial underneath the Rolex and model’s name. The savvy collector will also notice that this example, produced in 1955, bears an unusual case number with only 5 digits. In 1954, having reached the highest number with 6 digits, Rolex decided to start again with number 1 knowing that scholars would diferentiate a watch from the 50s’ from a piece made at the beginning of the century. In 1987, the brand introduced a letter before the case number in order to create more individual numbers. With its pink on pink combination allied with some typical features that are only to be seen on vintage models, the present watch seems to be willing to tell a lot of stories about its life in Havana back in the mid 50s!
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ROLEX Ref. 6305 Datejust “Joyeria Riviera”
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242.
A fne, rare and well-preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1980
Reference No.
6263
Movement No.
10’244
Case No.
6’043’891
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-120,000 $74,100-127,000 €60,000-103,000 Literature Another example of a yellow gold reference 6263 is illustrated in Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, pp. 368 and 369.
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The evolution of the Cosmograph Daytona is legendary. Over its 60-plus year life span, it has become an icon amongst chronographs for its strong masculine case, and classic sporty style. The references 6263 and 6265 were introduced into the market in approximately 1969, as an upgrade to the 6240, the frst Daytona to feature screw down pushers. It is believed only 100 examples of both references in yellow gold were made each year, thus over its nearly 20 year run, only a very limited number were produced. From the early 1980s and onwards, gold Cosmograph Daytonas featured a movement number engraved on the plate, behind the balance wheel. Research suggests that this was related to the ofcially certifed chronometer movement. Around this period, Rolex modifed the dial layout for gold versions, and the “Ofcially Certifed Chronometer” designation was printed on the dial, which we see on the present example. There is something about sports watches dressed in gold livery. Whereas the steel version of the reference 6263 oozes with pure coolness the yellow gold version, like the present lot has a somewhat sotto voce sophistication and subdued glamour.
30/03/18 08:50
ROLEX Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona
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243.
An attractive, rare and well preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1959
Reference No.
6234
Case No.
425’765
Model Name
Oyster Chronograph
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 35,000-55,000 $37,100-58,200 €30,000-47,200 Literature For another example of reference 6234 in stainless steel, see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, p. 86.
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The present watch demonstrates how a watch can remain extremely original, even afer 58 years since it lef the Rolex factory. The case is presented in extremely remarkable condition. It features full proportions and sharp fnishes on the top of the lugs. The numbers between the lugs are particularly noteworthy. Deep and precise, the serial and reference numbers are engraved directly onto the factory-satin fnish, demonstrating how they have never seen intervention in the past. Even the bottom edge of the lugs are sharp to the touch. The caseback is engraved “Stainless Steel”, which is sharp and deep. The “Swiss”signed dial is printed in English, most notably and correctly displaying a “miles” outer track and the word “antimagnetic”. It is preserved in excellent condition, with no major signs of tarnishing, which is impressive given the age of the watch. The movement is stamped ROW, which was an export code for the United States.
30/03/18 08:50
ROLEX Ref. 6234 Oyster Chronograph
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244.
A very attractive and unusually large yellow gold single-button chronograph wristwatch with hinged case, enamel dial, telemeter and tachymeter scales
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1934
Reference No.
2021
Case No.
12’010
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 14’’1/2, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-40,000 $26,500-42,300 €21,400-34,300 Literature For similar versions see “I Cronograf Rolex - La Leggenda”, Pucci Papaleo Editore, pp. 68-71.
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Reference 2021 is one of Rolex’s earliest chronograph models, frst launched in the 1920s, featuring a hinged caseback and an olive-shaped chronograph pusher. Its most impressive feature, however is its lovely, multi-scale enamel dial, featuring a telemeter scale printed on the periphery of the dial and a snailshaped tachymeter scale printer on the dial’s center. Even though this model dates from the 1930s, it comes in a surprisingly large case making it look contemporary perfect for modern tastes. Its enamel dial is in absolutely fantastic condition with black printing for its time telling and chronograph indications and bold, red printing for the telemeter and tachymeter scales. The combination creates a wonderful contrast against the blued hands, showcasing Rolex’s design mastery even in these early days. Considering the non-waterproof case - Rolex started using the Oyster cases subsequently in the 1930s - the present timepiece is in exceptional condition, making it an extraordinary fnd for a wristwatch that is approximately 80 years old.
30/03/18 08:51
ROLEX Ref. 2021 “Enamel Dial”
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245.
A fne and extremely rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1968
Reference No.
6241
Case No.
1’764’772
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet reference 7205, endlinks stamped 71, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
stamped S X3 and 7835
Estimate CHF 100,000-150,000 $106,000-159,000 €85,700-129,000
In a market that is becoming more and more demanding, few traits command more interest than provenance and quality in a rare timepiece. Luckily, the present 6241 “Paul Newman” Daytona amply checks both boxes.
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The piece was rediscovered in Spain, where it was originally purchased in the 1960s. A wristwatch is one of the most classic - and appreciated, one may say - coming of age gifs. Fully respecting tradition, the buyer did not keep the watch for himself, but purchased it as an eighteenth-birthday present for his child. Thus, the watch was safely treasured for about half a century by the recipient who fnally gifed it to his children as well, in this case one can truly speak of “history repeating”. A veritable family heirloom, the watch has thus been in possession of three generations of the same family. Condition-wise, the dial of the piece is as breathtaking as its outstanding provenance. Perfectly preserved, it boasts absolutely no faws, scratches or spotting of any kind. The luminous material as well is fully original, and the canvas onto which time lef its mark via a charismatic color-shif to a strong ochre tonality. Of particular interest is the well noticeable step to the outside track. While virtually every collector knows that the Paul Newman dial features an outer contrasting track, it is ofen overlooked how the track is recessed into the dial, similarly to the subsidiary counters. This construction is highly complex to achieve and gives the piece the tridimensionality which is undeniable part of its appeal. The step to the outside track can vary from dial batch to dial batch, a consequence of the semi-industrial production process of the time. In this instance the step is highly prominent, allowing the beholder to fully appreciate this complicated construction detail and the near-subliminal aesthetic impact of it on the overall dial looks.
30/03/18 08:51
ROLEX Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
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246.
An extremely rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with salmon dial, tachymeter, telemeter scales and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1945
Reference No.
3525
Case No.
386’289
Model Name
Oyster Chronograph “Bariletto”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel expandable Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex folding clasp
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $106,000-212,000 €85,700-171,000 Literature A similar example of a reference 3525 in steel with a matte pink dial is illustrated in 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, p. 102. Further examples can be seen in I Cronograf Rolex - La Leggenda by Pucci Papaleo Editore, pp. 162-192.
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A milestone wristwatch within Rolex’s storied legacy of chronographs, the reference 3525 was launched in 1939 and remained in production until about 1945. Produced in yellow gold, pink gold, stainless steel, or the combination of stainless steel and yellow gold, the reference 3525 was Rolex’s very frst chronograph wristwatch to be housed in an Oyster case equipped with a water resistant screw down case back along with screw down crown. This late-production example, evidenced by the serial number between the lugs, retains its original ‘Brevet’ Oyster crown and is in overall wonderful condition. The dial in particular attracts attention, with a rosé hue - not quite pink, not quite champagne, but some sublime shade in between. The case is exceptional and in our view has never been polished which is quite a feat considering its age. Furthermore, the brushed fnishing of the stainless steel case, with its wide, fat bezel, harmonizes well with the color of the dial and the contrasting, bold hands and numerals. The multi-scale dial, with black print for the minute track, sub-dials ,and tachymeter scale, and blue for the telemeter scale, remains sharp and legible. A remarkably well-preserved example for the connoisseur.
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ROLEX Ref. 3525 Oyster Chronograph “Bariletto”
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247.
A rare, impressive and unusual yellow gold, diamond and yellow sapphire-set chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2005
Reference No.
116598 SACO
Movement No.
CO’226’426
Case No.
D’804’987
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Leopard”
Material
18K yellow gold, diamonds and yellow sapphires
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex folding deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 ∆ $21,200-42,300 €17,100-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched Guarantee dated January 24, 2007, invoice dated January 24, 2007, product literature and leather wallet.
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Introduced at Basel Fair in 2004, reference 116598 SACO immediately captured the eyes and hearts of Rolex fans. Set with diamond hour markers contrasting against a leopard print dial and strap, the watch was something entirely diferent than anything Rolex had conceived in the past. This print inspired the watch’s nickname, “Leopard”. The watch is adorned with 36 baguette-cut yellow sapphires on the bezel, which are completely uniform, set incredibly close together and matching, which technically is no easy feat. The hoods between the lugs are also embellished with brilliant diamonds. Presented in excellent condition, this example is accompanied by its original punched guarantee and invoice, stating the watch was retailed at Emperor Watch & Jewellery in Hong Kong. Gem-set, precious sports watches are becoming increasingly collectible today, due to their good looks and robust proportions. Conspicuous, bold and audacious, this watch is a completely novel and interesting interpretation of the Cosmograph Datyona, making a bold statement about both Rolex and the collector who dons the timepiece.
30/03/18 08:52
ROLEX Ref. 116598 SACO “Leopard”
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248.
A very fne, rare and extremely attractive yellow gold, diamond and emerald-set chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and service guarantee card
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1992
Reference No.
16528
Case No.
N266975, inside caseback stamped 16500
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold, diamonds and emeralds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 103, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 $42,300-63,500 â‚Ź34,300-51,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Garantie Internationale de Service card dated June 20, 2017 and valid until July 19, 2019 and Rolex pouch.
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The present timepiece is a highly attractive example of a bejeweled Daytona Cosmograph. Bejeweled pieces have been known since the 80s, when Rolex frst experimented with an extremely limited number of manually-wound bejeweled pieces - references 6269 and 6270. With the advent of the 90s, the marque evolved toward innovative and more exotic designs and Rolex once again, extremely limited quantities, produced a number of pieces with gem-set bezel and diamond-pavĂŠ dial with gem-set numerals. The connoisseur will immediately recognize how the present watch is diferent than what one would expect from a bejeweled 16528: not only the bezel is without gem-setting, but furthermore the subsidiary counters, which are usually golden on pave dials, are in this instance silvered. The reason for this is that the owner of this watch requested and obtained a dial upgrade for his 16528. As it turns out, dials mounted at a later time by Rolex feature silver subdials rather than golden. This combination of a more subdued color of the subdials and a more restrained bezel lets the dial be the one and only protagonist of the watch, and at the same time makes the timepiece more wearable and less famboyant than the standard gem-set 16528.
30/03/18 08:53
ROLEX Ref. 16528 Cosmograph Daytona
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249.
ROLEX – A rare and attractive yellow gold, diamond and ruby-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds, bracelet, champagne dial and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1981
Reference No.
18038 inside caseback stamped 18000
Movement No.
0’353’672
Case No.
6’585’783
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold, diamonds and rubies
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, reference 8385, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold concealed Rolex
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
folding deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,900-26,500 €12,900-21,400 Accessories Accompanied by original ftted box, service papers and product literature.
From its introduction in 1956, the Day-Date has continued to embody the Rolex ethos of luxury and power. Myriad combinations were made possible by the variety of dials and case materials, the innumerable bezel patterns and the diferent bracelet assortments. This reference 18038 manufactured in 1981 exemplifes a perfectly balanced
timepiece able to convey a visual aesthetic full of panache. This particular variation of Day-Date is characterized by the combination of a sapphire crystal and futed bezel, and remained in production between 1977 and 1988. The present 18038 holds those two characteristics and more. It sports a champagne dial set with ruby baguette hour markers and round-cut diamonds flling the gaps. It is further made exceptional by the condition of its case and bracelet and the complete nature of its presentation, with its original caseback sticker still prominently visible alongside the original factory fnishes of the case. Undoubtedly luxurious without any sense of gaudiness, this Day-Date is sure to please the collector of all things precious and exceptional.
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250.
ROLEX – A rare and unusual stainless steel wristwatch with 24 hour indication, date, center seconds, bracelet and letter from original owner
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1978
Reference No.
1655
Movement No.
D853476
Case No.
5’399’103
Model Name
“Freccione Rail Dial”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex folding clasp stamped L5
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400 Accessories Accompanied by letter from the original owner, CHUMS elastic, sticker and envelope.
Marketed for adventurers, the Explorer family of watches was frst created in the early 1950s. This sports model found great success and in 1971, Rolex launched the Explorer II as a tool watch for those who work in environments of total darkness for extended periods of time such as spelunkers (cave explorers), who needed to know if their watches indicated AM or PM . The bright, orange-colored, luminous 24-hour hand permitted the time to be read in total darkness. The present watch is also known as the “Rail Dial” as the words “Chronometer” and “Certifed” line up together. Furthermore, scholars indicate that the “sweet spot” for this dial confguration is a 5.3 million serial number, which is present on this watch. Moreover, the backstory of this watch is as compelling as the object itself. It formerly belonged to Mike Taggett, the CEO and founder of Chums, an outdoor sporting goods store. A gif from his sister, this watch would accompany Taggett on his many adventures, ranging from building experimental engines in Argentina to sailing on Paul Cayard’s America’s Cup boat. This watch is accompanied by a letter from Taggett himself, chronicling the rise and subsequent decline of his storied and colorful career. Taggett sold the watch in 2009 to fund his next project, the “Human Dynamo”. Preserved in excellent condition with sharp bevels and satin fnishes, this watch is not only a particularly well-preserved example, it is also a testament to the stories and memories that a timepiece can represent.
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251.
A fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, original Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1980
Reference No.
6263
Case No.
6’047’298
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet reference 78350 19, endlinks stamped 571, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
stamped “VF” and 78350”
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $31,800-52,900 €25,700-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee dated April 28, 1987 and stamped by Grand Cayman retailer Kirk Freeport Plaza LTD., original invoice, green Guarantee multi-language translation leafet, calendar card for the years 1982/83 and Rolex presentation box
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There are seven stainless steel references for the manuallywound Daytona Cosmograph, difering for the combination of calibre (72B/722/722-1 or 727), bezel (black insert or engraved metal) and pushers (screw down or pump). Arguably, the one that best epitomizes the soul of this model is reference 6263 (black bezel, screw down pushers). The purity of this confguration, especially when it comes in the white dial variation, allows not only for perfect legibility - afer all, the Cosmograph was frst and foremost a tool for racers - but also grants the timepiece an undeniably enormous aesthetic impact thanks to the black/white chromatic scheme which alternates obviously on the dial, but on the case as well thanks to the black bezel contrasting with the shiny metal. So pleasing and appealing this design is, that in fact it is the obvious inspiration for the universally acclaimed contemporary Daytona model with ceramic bezel. The present timepiece, fercely treasured in the same collection for the past twenty years, is in fact a representative of this archetypical confguration. It is ofered in excellent condition, and with its original sale documentation. It is well known how the presence of a box is a welcome addition to a piece, and the presence of the original guarantee a defnite leap forward in the collectability of a watch. Thus, when an item as iconic as this is not only ofered with original guarantee and box, but even with the original purchase invoice, its appeal to the connoisseur of vintage timepiece can be described as truly stellar.
30/03/18 08:55
ROLEX Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
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252.
An early, very rare, and beautifully preserved stainless steel wristwatch with black glossy “four-liner, exclamation mark” dial, pointed crown guards and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1962
Reference No.
5512, inside caseback further stamped III.62
Movement No.
D49’899
Case No.
819’167
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1560, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 7206, end links stamped 80, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.61
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 $42,300-63,500 €34,300-51,400 Accessories Accompanied by the original inner and outer box, original crystal, photos of the original owner wearing the watch, a letter from Commander J.M. Bannister of the Civil Engineer Corps, United States Navy, to original owner’s mother discussing the owner’s military service in the U.S. Naval Mobile Construction Battalion Ten, and two CDs with digital copies of the photos.
The joy of vintage watches is that they ofer a wonderful glimpse into the past. One is able to imagine who wore the watch and the great life events that person may have experienced. It is rare, however, to have that past thoroughly documented, and even rarer to possess clear photos of the original owner wearing the watch. The present lot, a beautiful example of a Rolex Submariner reference 5512 with a muchdesired glossy dial with gilt chapter ring, is accompanied by such documentation that vividly tells the captivating story of its original owner.
This lot is further accompanied by a letter dated January 24th, 1964 from Carlson’s commanding ofcer in the U.S. Naval Mobile Construction Battalion 10 (known popularly as the “Seabees”) Commander J.M. Bannister, to Carlson’s mother Mrs. Gulah H. Carlson, along with newspaper clippings discussing elements of Carlson’s military service. One details Carlson’s involvement in “the largest combat amphibious operation since Inchon, Korea in 1950”. This indicates that Carlson, and his watch, were among the frst Seabees to enter what would become the Vietnam War. Indeed, in the compendium The U.S. Naval Institute on Marine Corps Aviation, Carlson’s unit and its commanding ofcer are noted for “constructing the frst SATS ever installed in a combat environment” - SATS being shorthand for Short Airfeld for Tactical Support, and the “combat environment” being Chu Lai, Vietnam. The 10th battalion, nicknamed the “Men of Ten,” was decommissioned in June 1976. It is known that Carlson wore his 5512 constantly during his two tours in Vietnam, but wore it only sporadically afer he was discharged. With all this rich history, one cannot forget to expound on the rarity of fnding such an early 5512 in such exceptional condition, regardless of the provenance. The present watch has so many desirable attributes of an early 1960s reference 5512: the pointed crown guards, a stunning and virtually fawless glossy black dial, perfectly preserved gilt chapter ring with the coveted “4-liner” designation printed in both silver and gold gilt, the exclamation mark at 6 o’clock, and a Mark I ‘fat font’ bezel insert. The current Submariner, preserved in unpolished original condition, is a storied example ready to accompany its discerning new owner on any sort of future adventure.
It was purchased by the original owner’s grandmother for her grandson, Carlton Carlson, in the early 1960s and subsequently gifed to him on the occasion of his high school graduation. The watch traveled with its owner to the Pacifc Theater as Carlson had reported for duty with the United States Navy as a Builder Constructionman Apprentice. She had it engraved ‘Carlton From Grandma 1963’, crisply visible on the caseback to this day. Carlson pointed out to his grandmother the watch he coveted most of all - the Submariner, captivated by Rolex’s advertisements of the time, as he had just received his scuba diving license and wished to have a proper diving watch.
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ROLEX Ref. 5512 “Four-Liner Exclamation Mark”
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253.
A highly rare and most attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial, two additional bracelets and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6239
Case No.
1’988’112
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather, further accompanied by Rolex original stainless steel riveted Oyster bracelet reference 7205 endlinks stamped 57 max length 165mm, and a second Rolex Oyster bracelet reference 78350 19, endlinks stamped 557 max length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-150,000 $106,000-159,000 €85,700-129,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex ftted box and two stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelets. Literature A similar example of a reference 6239 with “Paul Newman” dial is illustrated in Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, pp. 168-171.
The “Paul Newman” Daytona has been a favorite amongst collectors for many years now and its excitement and desirability never ceases to wane. Paul Newman himself wore a reference 6239 making the present watch a must have in any serious collection. Rolex introduced reference 6239 in 1963. With hindsight this was a crucial moment for the brand, it named the watch the”Cosmograph” and for the frst time it removed the tachymeter scale of the dial and onto the bezel. The rest, as they say, is history. The model was initially marketed as the “Le Mans”. Yet, it was eventually dubbed the “Daytona” when Rolex sponsored the 24 Hours of Daytona automobile race. Reference 6239 was produced until 1976 and was available in stainless steel, 14K and 18K gold. Condition is key as is with many things, but in the world of Daytona collecting, it almost becomes a science. From the superb dial, to the lume plots remaining intact and excellent overall case, all these factors come together to create high desirability, and the present watch is one of those. Property of the original owner, the present reference 6239 was ofered to him as a gif from a friend of the family at the occasion of his First Communion at the age of 9. It was worn only on special occasions as a young boy (hence the length of the original bracelet) and only with the utmost care later on. On overall excellent condition and fresh to the market the present lot is a must have for a collector looking for an icon.
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ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
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254.
A fne and very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1966
Reference No.
6240
Case No.
1’658’473
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 7835 19, end links stamped 357, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 $159,000-265,000 €129,000-214,000 Accessories Accompanied by green Rolex wallet, Treviso, Italy Gioielleria Giraldo service invoice dated January 5, 2000 and original gaskets
Collecting Rolex wristwatches has multiple facets: the straightforward aesthetic pleasure of the watch, the technical aspects such as the efciency of the automatic module and the water resistance of the Oyster case, or the search for distinguished-provenance-watches (American actor Paul Newman comes to mind, but also Steve McQueen or James Bond). Arguably the most fercely discussed and intellectually stimulating part of Rolex collecting is the “correctness” of a timepiece. As Rolex archives are not public, scholars and collectors have been endlessly refning the characteristic a certain reference should have and their evolution over the
lifetime of the model. While a consensus has been reached on many topics, some questions are still open, waiting for the appearance of further information to be answered. One such question was if reference 6240 truly ever originally mounted a Paul Newman dial. While the market is highly confdent the answer to this question is yes, there was a lack of conclusive evidence. The present timepiece fnally clarifes the situation once and for all: ofered by the wife of the late original owner, the absolute originality of the dial is not only proven by the testimony of the family, but also by a number of pictures spanning about ffy years and portraying owner Doctor Corsini wearing the watch, providing documentation of the remarkable life of both this watch and of its owner. The Corsini 6240 was bought in Padua-based Rolex retailer “Rocca 1794”, with the frst earnings of Dr. Corsini’s career as a surgeon. The following year, 1971, he went to Africa to work as supervisor of the hospital of the Combodian Missionaries Humanitarian Mission in Kalongo, Uganda. Afer this experience he returned to Italy, where he continued his career until becoming Chief of Medicine for General Surgery at the Padua Hospital. One of the highlights of his life is when, in 1985 to 1987, he was part of the team which scientifcally examined an alleged miracle for the beatifcation process of Vicenza Bishop Giovanni Antonio Farina (1803 - 1888). The team concluded that the recovery in question could not be explained by science, a frst step which led to Archbishop Farini being eventually beatifed in 2001 (and later canonized in 2014). The following year, in recognition of his services, the Bishop of Treviso granted Dr. Corsini the title of Commendatore dell’Ordine di San Silvestro, and pictures taken at the proclamation ceremony show the 6240 on his wrist. He retired in 2009 and lived the last years of his live surrounded by the love of his family. As fascinating as the history of this watch is, it is fully matched by the quality of the dial, which survived through time in astoundingly good condition, without any mark or scratch. Both the outer track and the subsidiary dials have acquired a charming ivory hue over time, matched by the tonality of the luminous material, absolutely unspoiled. Interestingly, the step to the outer track is very pronounced; the “T Swiss T” designation is, as expected from this time, sing-a-song: with tall center and short extremities, giving it a sort of pyramidal or “roof” look, hence its Italian defnition “a casetta”, literally: “little house” style. The serial number 1’658’473 confrms what long suspected by the market: correct Paul Newman 6240s should have 1’658’xxx serial number.
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ROLEX Ref. 6240 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
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255.
A very fne and very rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with black dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1950
Reference No.
4062
Case No.
872’017, inside caseback further stamped 019
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 23, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-70,000 $42,300-74,100 €34,300-60,000
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Reference 4062 was launched in 1942 and remained in production until circa 1963. Its large-for-the-time 36mm diameter together with some design details such as the teardrop lugs and ribbed bezel grant it a very unusual look for a Rolex wristwatch, sharing the general aesthetics with, for example, the frst iteration of the Killy line of wristwatches reference 4768 - albeit in that case the lug design is slightly diferent and the case does not feature a ribbed band. The model was executed in yellow gold, pink gold, steel-and-gold and stainless steel. Very few examples are known with black dial, such as this fresh to the market piece. The piece was purchased in the 1950s in Brescia, Italy by Mr. Bruno Morosini, Italian entrepreneur and owner of the footwear brand Superga, which dominated the italian market for good part of the second half of the past century. While the original owner is known to have throughly enjoyed the piece, his descendant - who inherited the watch in 1974 - only sparsely used it on occasion an never restored or serviced it. Thus, the piece is ofered in absolutely honest condition. The dial most impressively not only doesn’t present any sign of cosmetic intervention, but it also lacks any kind of scratch or mark which may be caused when removing the hands. The gilt designations are absolutely pristine and the indexes follow suit. The “Rolex Chronographe” and “Anti-Magnetique” designations have aged to a very charming brick-red tone, and the black fnish acquired an intense matte, of-black patina.
30/03/18 08:56
ROLEX Ref. 4062 “Black Dial”
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256.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN – A rare and attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne dial and tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1947
Reference No.
4178
Movement No.
128’607
Case No.
295’600
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 434, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Vacheron Constantin pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,900-26,500 €12,900-21,400 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Certifcate of Authenticity confrming year of production in 1947, service papers and original box.
The present Vacheron Constantin reference 4178 lures in seductively thanks to the winning combination of pink gold case and light champagne colored dial. Launched in 1940 and in production until 1964, Vacheron Constantin’s reference 4178 is the model collectors immediately designate as an icon and the chronograph most associated with Vacheron Constantin. Immediately recognizable thanks to its gorgeous and inimitable teardrop lugs, the 4178 is also
considered one of the most beautiful chronograph watches ever made due to its balanced proportions and near-perfect symmetry. During its production, the reference 4178, like with the present lot, housed two diferent chronograph calibers: V492 and V434. Research shows us that only 280 examples of the reference 4178 in pink gold housing caliber 434 were made. The present watch is in overall excellent condition retaining the faceted lugs and sensual curves that collectors fnd so attractive. It furthermore underwent a full service at Vacheron Constantin’s ateliers in Geneva in 2013 where the dial was restored to its previous glory. The present 4178 would be an excellent addition to the collection of the savvy Vacheronista.
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257.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN – A fne and rare yellow gold oversized wristwatch with centre seconds silver dial and date
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1967
Reference No.
6440
Movement No.
587’454
Case No.
410’284
Model Name
“Cioccolatone”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1072/1, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold pin buckle
Dimensions
44mm Length, 35mm Width
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 18,000-36,000 $19,100-38,100 €15,400-30,900 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1967
A timepiece whose design is bordering experimental, the “Cioccolatone” is one of Vacheron Constantin’s most recognizable and defning designs.
Nicknamed “Cioccolatone” due to its resemblance to a square of chocolate, it was originally introduced to the market in the 1950s, including a manual wind, an automatic, a version with date only like the present reference 6440 and of course the famous triple date calendar with moonphase display. The present lot with its superbly preserved case, sunray pattern silver dial and graphic indexes eloquently embodies Vacheron Constantins’s creative exuberance. In 2003 Vacheron Constantin revived this case shape by launching the full calendar with moonphase indication model under the name Toledo 1952; in 2013 Vacheron Constantin relaunched a model similar to the present lot under the name Historiques Toledo 1951. The present lot will appeal to the non-conformist and the lover of unconventional timepieces.
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258.
AUDEMARS PIGUET – A very stylish white gold square case jump hour wristwatch with Art Deco type of lugs and applied Breguet numerals
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1928
Movement No.
58’765
Case No.
38’765
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 10GHSM , 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
26mm Length, 26mm Width
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1928 and its subsequent sale in 1929.
The Art Deco movement appeared just before World War I and was a potent combination of modernist style with fne crafsmanship and rich materials. During its heyday, Art Deco represented luxury, glamour, exuberance, and faith in social and technological progress. It is no wonder that it was such a fourishing inspiration for the watchmaking industry. The desire to be modern driven by this movement encouraged watch designers to fnd new ways to indicate time and the jump hour indicator was one of the most coveted of all.
Made in white gold, the square shape case of the present jump hour watch displays Art Deco style lugs whose design reminds of the one of the Chrysler Building. White gold applied Breguet numerals beautifully complement its vertical satin fnish dial. Elegant, modern and sophisticated yet very masculine, this watch embodies the spirit of the Roaring Twenties, a period where design for men’s accessories was exploring new horizons.
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259.
AUDEMARS PIGUET – A very fne and rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1942
Movement No.
45’984
Case No.
45’984
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13 VZA, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gold-plated pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,900-26,500 €12,900-21,400 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet letter confrming production of the present watch in 1942 and its subsequent sale in 1943 and pouch.
Audemars Piguet is among the most celebrated names in the industry, and the manufacturer of one of the most appreciated and renowned sport’s wristwatches of modern times, the Royal Oak. While it has today the structure of a modern watchmaking company, intriguingly the modernization and rationalization process happened only in the early 1990s. Before then, the company had a much more of a “boutique workshop” structure, with a very limited output.
This is the reason why vintage Audemars Piguet chronographs (and complicated timepieces in general) are an extremely scarce resource. The present piece is a representative of wartime Audemars Piguet production. The elegant and simple lines of the case, combined with its highly readable and utilitarian dial, render the watch supremely elegant. In fact, it is obvious how the entire design of the piece follows its function (a Bauhaus principle which inspired the designs of more than one company at the time) and is engineered with maximum ease of operation and readability in mind. The tragic events of the 1940s further produced a noticeable shif in the watchmaking style of the time, amplifying the minimalist Bauhaus design aesthetics of pieces made during that time. Beyond its scarcity and appeal, the watch comes with a history fully documented by Audemars Piguet’s Archives: originally born with a champagne dial with “12” and “6” pink gold applied numerals, the watch was brought back to Audemars Piguet for a service in 1960, when it was given the present dial, diverging from the original for the silvered color and the yellow gold indexes. Another passage in Audemars Piguet workshop is documented in 1973, when the dial was expertly restored by the company. It is a safe assumption, judging by the dial quality, that the watch was since then very sparsely worn, and it arrives to us today in impeccable condition.
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260.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN – A rare and elegant yellow gold chronometer wristwatch with bracelet presented with box, original certifcate, rating certifcate and Geneva seal certifcate
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1954
Reference No.
6075
Movement No.
508’685
Case No.
342’529
Model Name
Chronomètre Royal
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1008BS, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Gay Frères bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K folding clasp stamped 4-53
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,700-19,100 €10,300-15,400 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin original ftted box, original certifcate, rating certifcate, Geneva seal certifcate and Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1954.
Behind a delightfully historic name (that was registered as a trademark as early as 1907), Vacheron Constantin’s “Chronomètre Royal” is one of horology’s best known models as well as one of the frst attempts at serial production of a precision timepiece. Each and every Chronomètre Royal was an ultimate expression of Vacheron Constantin’s know-how, in
terms of aesthetic design, chronometry and fnishing quality. Accordingly, vintage Chronomètre Royal wristwatches are considered by collectors and scholars to be amongst the fnest ever made by any brand. The present lot is a fantastic example of Vacheron Constantin’s design acumen, with its large case, beautifully intricate integrated yellow gold bracelet made by Gay Frères and beautiful silver dial with applied and faceted gold hour markers. The 1008BS (for Balance Stop) movement is nothing short of superb with its painstaking hand decoration attested by the Geneva seal. It is interesting to note that this movement was the frst to ofer a “hacking” mechanism in a civilian timepiece. This watch is accompanied by its original chronometer rating results bearing the mention: “particularly good results”. Complete with its original box, original Certifcate of Origin, Chronomètre Royal Bulletin de Marche, and Geneva seal certifcate make the present lot a rare fnd for the discerning collector.
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261.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN – A fne, unusual and extremely rare yellow gold wristwatch with center seconds, date, certifcate and box
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1964
Reference No.
6782
Movement No.
570’550
Case No.
398’226
Model Name
“Turnograph”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. K 1072, 29 jewels, stamped twice
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
with the Geneva Seal, stamped “VXN” Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Vacheron Constantin pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial movement and pin buckle signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,700 €6,900-10,300 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Certifcat d’Origine et de Garantie stamped Milan retailer Cavanna Luigi and dated December 20, 1969 and ftted presentation box. Furthermore delivered with Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming production in 1964.
Most watch companies can be classifed according to their production: from manufacturers specialized in high-end complicated pieces (such as Vacheron Constantin) to companies devoted to professional wristwatches (for example, Rolex or Omega), it is undeniable that most brands have some sort of core specialization which in turn becomes part of their identity.
When a brand steps outside of that comfort zone, the result is most ofen a very scarce and highly collectible model. The triple calendar moonphase wristwatches by Rolex are the typical example. The extremely elusive Vacheron Constantin reference 6782 Turnograph is another. With an heritage characterized by dress watches, Vacheron Constantin’s production of sport/tool pieces is nowadays extremely restricted, and in the 1950s virtually nonexistent. That is, until the release of the “Turnograph”, nicknamed as such due to its resemblance to the Rolex reference 1625. However, even though it can be classifed as a sports watch, the model bears undeniable ties to the ethos of Vacheron Constantin, not only the most obvious gold case, but also the delicate sunburst dial, ofen found on Vacheron Constantin dress pieces of the time. While the overall production numbers for the reference can not be unequivocally confrmed, it appears to be a very rare timepiece judging by the frequency of its appearance on the market. Interestingly, notwithstanding the assumed scarce production, the company made a number of diferent dial iterations. It is a delight to point out how the present one, bearing vertically arranged baton indexes, would appear to be one of the most difcult - and visually striking - to come by.
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262.
A rare, large and attractive pink gold wristwatch with Breguet numerals
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1954
Reference No.
570
Movement No.
723’193
Case No.
306’706
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-400, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-35,000 $26,500-37,100 €21,400-30,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with silvered dial and Breguet numerals in 1954 and its subsequent sale on October 23, 1954.
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Reference 570 was Patek Philippe’s very frst “large” Calatrava model that was produced in series. At the time of production, the reference was the largest “time-only” wristwatch produced by the frm. Manufactured from 1938 to 1972, the model was cased predominantly in yellow gold, and rarely in pink gold, white gold, stainless steel and platinum. The reference featured a multitude of dial variations. While some were ftted with Breguet numerals, others featured black lacquer dials and even some with two-tone confguration. The present watch features pink gold applied Breguet numerals, which is confrmed by the Extract from the Archives. Even though fve pink gold reference 570s housing the caliber 12-120 with Breguet numerals are known, the present pink gold reference 570 is the only one known with caliber 12-400 and Breguet numerals. The caseback most interestingly features two hallmarks, underlining the excellent condition of the case.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 570 “Calatrava with Breguet Numerals”
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263.
A very rare and attractive yellow gold open face minute repeating perpetual calendar pocketwatch with split-seconds chronograph with 30 minute register and moonphases
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1908/1970
Reference No.
5543BA
Movement No.
12’535
Case No.
12’535
Model Name
“Grande Complication”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 18SMCRQV, 34 jewels
Dimensions
50mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-90,000 $63,500-95,300 €51,400-77,200 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extrait de Registre confrming production of the present movement in 1908 and its subsequent sale in 1970.
The present watch features the three elements that collectors and scholars defne as a “Grande Complication”: a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar and a split-seconds complication. In terms of technical mastery, Audemars Piguet is one of the “greats”, not only in creating renowned complications under its own name but also in supplying movements to other brands. The movement of the present lot dates from 1908. However, it was only cased in 1970. Its large stepped case and balanced dial is complemented by the sublime hand-decorated movement. It is interesting to note that in the early 1970s, despite the decline in demand for pocket watches due to the Quartz crisis, Audemars Piguet continued producing extraordinarily costly pocket watches, beautifully embodying the brand’s expertise in complications. Furthermore, the minute repeating mechanism chimes with great tone and clarity, attesting to the manufacture’s mastery.
Literature A similar watch is illustrated in Audemars Piguet by Brunner, PfeiferBelli and Wehrli, p. 155.
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AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 5543BA “Triple Complication”
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264.
A rare, large and attractive yellow gold chronograph openface pocketwatch with two-tone sector dial, pulsations scale, presentation inscription to Benito E. Martinez and box, retailed by Walser Wald
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1910
Movement No.
156’779
Case No.
616’425
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 19, 27 jewels
Dimensions
50mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed, dial further signed by retailer Walser Wald
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 ∆ $15,900-26,500 €12,900-21,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe presentation box stamped by Walser Wald. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1910 with silvered dial, Arabic numerals at 3 and 9 o’clock and baton-cut indexes in yellow gold and pulsometer scale and its subsequent sale on February 11, 1938.
This openface watch is remarkable for a number of reasons. First of all, it features a chronograph function, along with a twotone sector dial with pulsations outer scale which is confrmed by the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives. According to research, this is the only pulsations openface watch retailed by Walser Wald that has ever appeared on the market. The long “Patek Philippe & Cie” signature is correct for the period, and the hard enamel remains intact. Furthermore, the retailer’s signature is present above the 60-second register at 6 o’clock. Walser, Wald Y Cia was a retailer in Buenos Aires, Argentina. At the time, it was one of Patek Philippe’s most prominent retailers in South America. The inside of the case back reveals an even more compelling story. It is inscribed “Al Diputado Nacional Benito E. Martinez SUS Amigos Politicos de la VIth Seccion Electoral Pcia Bs As 31-5-1938”. Given the case and dial design, one would assume the watch sat uncased for over twenty years until its sale on February 11, 1938. It seems that this watch was a gif from the National Deputy’s friends, celebrating a moment in Argentinian politics. Research shows that Benito E Martinez was very active in Argentinian politics in the early 20th century, eventually holding a Deputy position in the 6th Section of the Province of Buenos Aires, representing the Conservative party. As an even nicer touch, the original presentation box not only bears the Patek Philippe name, but also Walser Wald y Cia.
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PATEK PHILIPPE “Sector Dial and Pulsations Scale for Walser Wald”
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265.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold minute repeating perpetual calendar openface pocketwatch with split seconds chronograph and moonphases
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1950
Reference No.
658
Movement No.
861’185
Case No.
680’489
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 17’’, 41 jewels
Dimensions
50mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 $159,000-265,000 €129,000-214,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1950 and its subsequent sale on July 27, 1956, and original presentation box.
Heavy and remarkable, reference 658 was at the time of production one of Patek Philippe’s most complicated serially produced openface pocketwatches. The model is extremely rare. To date, no more than a handful of examples have appeared on the auction market. Chiming with great tone clarity, this minute repeating perpetual calendar timepiece is also ftted with a split seconds mechanism, considered to be one of the most complex complications to master.
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The incorporation of these three complications refects Patek Philippe’s mastery and horological know-how. Launched in 1937, reference 658 features a large stepped case, which was incredibly modern for the period. Interestingly, the Arabic numerals and leaf hands are similar to those of Patek Philippe’s iconic reference 1518. Having resided in an important private collection for close to a decade, this example is preserved in excellent condition, boldly displaying contrasting polished and brushed fnishes. Two crisp hallmarks are punched on the inside rim of the case, hidden by the case back as not to disrupt the appearance of the watch. The hard enamel printing is raised and the dial is preserved in overall pristine condition with hardly any tarnishing or spotting, which is particularly impressive considering its age. The superb condition of this timepiece combined with its ultra complicated movement make the present “grande complication” a rare and important piece to have for the discerning collector.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 658 “Triple Complications”
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Patek Philippe Watches with World Time Mechanism and Cloisonné Enamel Dials World time watches are not only usefully complicated timepieces but are also a window into our history. With the rise and fall of nations and empires, cities representing time zones of reference have been replaced from one to the other, displaying as such their geopolitical importance. Until the late 19th century most countries had their own time zone and within each country many towns had their own local time based on solar time. Legend has it that it was in 1876 afer missing a train in Ireland, that Scottish engineer, Stanford Fleming began to look for a way to standardize time. Speaking before the Royal Canadian Institute in Toronto in 1879, he proposed to divide the Earth into 24 time zones of 15° one hour apart, with a universal time for each individual zone. However, as with most revelations that threaten to change the world, his idea was met with considerable resistance from governments and scientifc communities. At last, Fleming’s persistence paid of and his idea was fnally adopted in 1884 in Washington, when the 25 nations taking part in the International Meridian Conference decided that the prime meridian of 0° longitude would pass through Greenwich, England. Even though, multi time zone watches had existed as far back as the 18th century, watchmakers did not immediately grasp this new opportunity by creating world time watches based Image taken from the ofcial Patek Philippe retailer's catalogue, 1961
Page from the Stern Archives © Dr. Crott Consulting SARL www.vintagewatchexpert.com
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Page from the Stern Archives © Dr. Crott Consulting SARL www.vintagewatchexpert.com
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Image taken from the ofcial Patek Philippe retailer's catalogue, 1961
Page from the Stern Archives Š Dr. Crott Consulting SARL www.vintagewatchexpert.com
on the newly created 24 hour time zones. Was this due to the complexity of the mechanism, the lack of demand, national issues with the exact division of time zones or the legendary Swiss neutrality (not wanting to put forward one nation by having its capital as city of reference for that time zone)? Whatever the answer, world time watches as we know today, only saw the light of day in the early 1930s, thanks to genius watchmaker Louis Cottier. It is around that period that Cottier designed a movement featuring a local time with hour and minute hands at center, linked to a rotating 24hour ring, and bordered by a fxed outer dial ring with the names of diferent cities inscribed on it. The city of choice (local time zone) was placed at the 12 o'clock position with the hours/minutes hand set at local time, the watch would then display the correct time in both hours and minutes, night and day, for every time zone in the world simultaneously, all the while allowing easy and accurate reading of local time, and all on a single dial. Some of the greatest Swiss watchmakers such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Agassiz and Rolex called to Cottier to provide them his new invention in either pocketwatch form followed later in a miniaturized version for the wrist. Patek Philippe world time models whether in pocket or wrist form are a beautiful and scarce breed but models with a cloisonnĂŠ enamel dial represent the epitome of desirability, rarity and collectability.
efects as well as the gradation of the enamel. A dangerous process as at each fring the dial can break or the enamel may react diferently to the heat, resulting in high rejection rates.
Fabricating a polychrome, cloisonnĂŠ enamel dial is amongst the most painstakingly difcult and labor intensive processes in watchmaking. The artist frst marks out the outline of the motifs using a fne gold wire to separate the various enamel regions. Multiple enamel layers are applied depending on the desired colors, followed by numerous successive fring operations in a kiln serving to intensify the color and light
We are delighted to ofer some of the most exciting, well preserved and relevant world time models made by Patek Philippe available on the market, vintage or modern, pocket or wristwatch with beautifully vibrant enamel dials. These timepieces represent diferent designs and periods, however, each and every one of them is a milestone in the history of the world time watch.
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266.
A highly important and extremely rare yellow gold open face world time pocketwatch with “World Map” polychrome cloisonné enamel dial
Some timepieces posses such an allure of rarity, attractiveness, and technical interest that they have become near-mythical objects of desire for the most discerning and demanding watch collectors on earth. Patek Philippe enameled world time pieces undoubtedly belong in this category. World time watches were serially produced by Patek Philippe from the late 1930s to the 1950s (and then again in modern form from 2000 onward). Disregarding prototype series (such as reference 1416) and piece unique watches (such as “The Doctor’s” world time chronograph or the rectangular-shaped world time watch), three references mainly represent the vintage world time production of the brand: wrist references 1415 and 2523 (and its evolution 2523-1), and the present pocket reference 605 HU, all of them made under the absolute supervision of watchmaker Louis Cottier, inventor of the world time system. In 1937, Cottier submitted to the company a frst ofer for a 17’’’ world time movement, and he would eventually create less than 100 movements, most of them cased in reference 605. The model was originally ofered with a silver (sometimes champagne or pink) dial, but it was a commercial fop due to the combination of the downhill trend of pocket watches in thencurrent fashion and the novelty of the world time system, which was met with lukewarm enthusiasm by Patek Philippe clients. This is why it is very common to see years passing between the production date of a 605 HU and its sale: in this case for example, the watch was manufactured in 1948 but sold nearly a decade later, in 1956. Such a low demand is probably what prompted Patek Philippe to ofer a new and more luxurious dial option: the celebrated polychrome cloisonné enamel dial, available from the late 1940s. The new option, however, did not truly help to overturn the poor commercial performance of the model, which could also be explained by the complicated production process leading to a very slow production rate, thus it was physically
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 605 HU “World Map”
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266.
A highly important and extremely rare yellow gold open face world time pocketwatch with “World Map” polychrome cloisonné enamel dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1948
Reference No.
605 HU
Movement No.
930’837, enamel dial stamped “930837” to the back
Case No.
654’936, bezel stamped “936” to the back
Model Name
Worldtime
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 17’’’170HU, 18 jewels
Dimensions
45mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed by maker, enamel dial signed by Louis Cottier
Estimate CHF 250,000-500,000 $265,000-529,000 €214,000-429,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1948 and its subsequent sale on May 26, 1956
impossible to achieve high volumes. Furthermore, the presence of a cloisonné dial commanded an enormous increase of price: when a standard pocket watch of similar size to ref. 605 was at the time retailing for about 870 CHF, reference 605 HU cloisonné was being sold for a whopping 2’250 CHF; while part of the price increase was due to the complicated movement, most of it was due to the dial. As a result, such watches were made in extremely restricted numbers, with around ten pieces publicly known today. The ofer spaced from the traditional geographic maps to more unusual subjects, such as the “Neptune” or the “Compass”. The World Map here exemplifed is an exceedingly rare design, with only another example known to the market.
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It appears that some examples of reference 605 which were born with a metal dial were later upgraded to the enamel version. Such is the case of the present watch: while the Patek Philippe Extract does not bear mention of the enamel dial, the presence of the movement number stamped to the back of the enamel disc indisputably links dial and watch together, the only conclusion being that this was an upgrade made by the manufacturer. Interestingly, a similar situation is known in regard to another reference 605, bearing movement number 930’838: the immediate next movement. An educated guess suggests the presence of a batch of standard-dial pieces which was upgraded with the cloisonné decor. When analyzing the back of the enamel disc, one can notice another stamp on the opposite side from where the movement number is marked, which would look like an unusual glyph to an untrained eye. In fact, that is the stamp of Louis Cottier (an interlaced L an C). Connoisseurs of watchmaking will fnd it surprising for a watchmaker to sign a dial, which is not made by the watchmaker. In fact, due to the mechanical connections of the revolving bezel and dial to the world time mechanism, Cottier himself supervised every single production passage for these pieces, and thus the back of the dial bear his mark. The historical interest and rarity of this ref. 605 version are matched - and suprassed - by the astonishing beauty of the dial. It is interesting to point out how the enamel decor present on this reference is the largest cloisonné dial to be found on a vintage Patek Philippe wrist or pocket timepiece, measuring about 22mm in diameter, compared to the circa 16mm of reference 2523.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 605 HU “World Map”
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267.
A very fne and rare pink gold world time wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2016
Reference No.
5131R
Movement No.
5’947’451
Case No.
6’074’236
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240HU, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-120,000 $63,500-127,000 €51,400-103,000 Accessories Accompanied by ftted box, certifcate of origin, hang tag, product literature and leather wallet
The reference 5131 is Patek Philippe’s latest generation worldtime wristwatch, following a long line of exquisite world-time wristwatches from the famed manufacture, drawing its technical and aesthetic inspiration from the legendary pocket watches and wristwatches produced since the early 20th century. World time watches were invented, as is the case with most innovations, out of necessity.
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With the advent of the industrial age came the means necessary to facilitate global trade and travel and, as a direct result, there was a need for timekeeping devices capable of tracking time in multiple locations. Between 1930 and 1931, Louis Cottier designed an ingeinious, ultra-thin mechanism that simultaneously displayed the correct hours across the world’s time zones through a rotating 24-hour ring, in addition to the local time. The city of choice (local time zone) would be set at the 12 o’clock position with the hours/minutes hand set at local time. The highly user friendly design, used until the present day, would then display the correct time in both hours and minutes, night and day, for every time zone in the world simultaneously, while clearly indicating local time - all via a single dial. Patek Philippe has since then embraced the artistic opportunities worthy of such a poetic yet practical complication, and in many instances, combined it with one of their most exclusive “métiers d’arts” creations - cloisonné enamel. In this example, the vibrant cloisonné enamel center disc depicts the Americas, Asia, and Oceania in a wonderful array of blues, greens and yellows all outlined in fne gold. A well-balanced 40mm in diameter, this modern horological masterpiece marries the old and the new perfectly, and is sure to be the perfect companion for the well-traveled connoisseur.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5131R “World Time Enamel Dial”
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268.
An exceptionally fne, important and attractive yellow gold world time wristwatch with “Eurasia” polychrome cloisonné enamel dial
Each brand can bring forth at least one watch model which, either due to its stylistic language or to some specifc and/or unusual complication, can be considered the embodiment of the philosophy of the company. When it comes to Patek Philippe, in the eyes of the collectors the world time complication - especially when associated with a cloisonné dial - is indisputably one of the “hallmarks” of the brand. This is not because Patek Philippe has some sort of monopoly on this complication; on the contrary, many contemporary and vintage timepieces sport the feature. However, no world time watch of any other brand has ever evoked such strong feelings in the collecting community: while the current production enameled world time pieces are virtually unobtainable unless the collector is more than well known to the company, vintage timepieces are considered absolute endgame wristwatches, among the highest pinnacles achievable in the feld. The reasons behind such an endless fascination of the community with Patek Philippe world time pieces are most probably multiple, and defnitely arguable, but what is certain is that it all began in the 1940s, with the commercialization of the present reference 1415. Patek Philippe has since then almost continuously ofered a world or travel time (another complication developed by Cottier for Patek Philippe) in its catalogues.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1415 “Eurasia”
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268.
An exceptionally fne, important and attractive yellow gold world time wristwatch with “Eurasia” polychrome cloisonné enamel dial
In the early years of the twentieth century, telecommunications - pioneered in the 1800s with the telegraph and later the telephone - became a truly widespread occurrence, permeating the fabric of society on every level. Long distance communications became available (the frst coast-to-coast phone call having been made in 1915) and with them the necessity of knowing with accuracy the time in every part of the world. Answering to this need, watchmaker Louis Cottier created the concentric rings system that would become the standard for world time watches. Afer experimenting on a few prototypes (such as a world time chronograph and a rectangular world time wristwatch), Patek Philippe decided to launch a serially produced model, the reference 1415. Created in yellow gold, pink gold, and one known example in platinum, the overall production for the model is a highly restricted 115 pieces in total. Of these, only a tiny minority were blessed with stunning cloisonné dials representing either the map of the world, or - much less commonly - the map of Eurasia. By flling with enamel powder of various colors compartments (cloisons) created with gold wires, enamel masters managed to achieve dials of incredible chromatic range, astounding brilliance, and mesmerizing depth. In fact, vintage cloisonné dials are considered by purists superior in translucency and overall aesthetic impact to modern creations. While this is debatable, it is undeniable that some raw materials available at the time are now considered hazardous to work with, have been made illegal and thus can no longer be employed in the production of dials.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1415 “Eurasia”
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268.
An exceptionally fne, important and attractive yellow gold world time wristwatch with “Eurasia” polychrome cloisonné enamel dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1949
Reference No.
1415
Movement No.
964’808
Case No.
669’495
Model Name
“Eurasia”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-120HU, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt buckle
Dimensions
31mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 700,000-1,400,000 $741,000-1,480,000 €600,000-1,200,000
The present example of reference 1415 is an extremely important specimen preserved in astounding condition, with absolutely crisp hallmarks to the case and an immaculate polychrome cloisonné enamel dial. Furthermore, not only it is one of the 115 examples of this reference made, but even more appealing, it is one of the extremely scarce cloisonné dial variations. While most of the known cloisonné reference 1415 feature a world map, only two pieces, including this one, are known with the map of Eurasia (the other being one number apart: 964’809). Additionally, it features a bezel engraved with the cities in French, much more rare than the version in English. It is interesting to note how the bezel reports Paris and London on the same time zone. While France adopted Central European time in July 1940, for many years it was expected to revert back, and so many watchmakers kept it within the London time zone for years. There are examples of Patek Philippe pieces from the 1970s which still feature London and Paris in the same zone.
Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1949 with cloisonné enamel dial and its subsequent sale on May 24, 1954.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1415 “Eurasia”
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Breguet – A fne and very rare stainless steel wristwatch with day and date
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1978
Case No.
2321
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2630, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
34mm Width, 39.5mm Length
Signed
Dial signed, case numbered
Estimate CHF 5,000-8,000 $5,300-8,500 €4,300-6,900 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Certifcate confrming production of the present watch in 1978
While 1978 was the year disco music was monopolizing the charts the world around, rock tunes of The Police’s debut album “Outlandos d’Amour”, released the same year, is blasting away on the turntable. A man, lounging on his sofa, his feet slipped into elegant Gucci loafers, is propped on the low table in front on him sipping a whiskey sour. His impeccably pressed shirt cufs rolled up display a wrist adorned with an ususual and striking Breguet cushion shaped automatic timepiece. This is a man who does not bend to trends and mainstream but who walks his own path.
He has on his wrist an extremely rare and singular Breguet without any of the design codes from the famed brand we are used to but a viciously cool 70s design with large faceted cushion case, black dial, black date disc ofset by the white signatures on the dial and day disc. In overall excellent condition with strong angles to the case, crisp numerals engraved on the caseback and a deep black mat dial, the present Breguet will delight the non-conformist collector looking for an unusual and ultra-rare timepiece.
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Breguet – A rare and unusual chrome and stainless steel wristwatch with alarm
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1971
Reference No.
35-865
Case No.
367
Material
Chrome with stainless steel back
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel buckle
Dimensions
37mm Width, 40mm Length
Signed
Dial signed
Estimate CHF 3,000-5,000 $3,200-5,300 €2,600-4,300 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Certifcate confrming production of the present watch in 1971 and its subsequent sale on December 23, 1971 for 457 French Francs.
The present Breguet alarm wristwatch is a mystery…a beautiful and unusual mystery. It was believed that Breguet started making wristwatches with alarm function in the early 90s featuring all the Breguet design codes such as Breguet hands, guilloché dials and coin edge cases.
The present watch redefnes scholarship, as it is the earliest Breguet wristwatch with alarm that we have encountered and even more surprisingly it lacks the Breguet design elements that we are so used to. Its rarity is rendered even more enticing by its design. The monochrome efect of the generous and elegant cushion case, along with the dark grey dial, results in a highly contemporary appeal. The alarm function is wound and set via the crown at two o’clock and rings impressively loud for approximately 15 seconds. An unexpected and unusual watch, the present Breguet wristwatch alarm appears today on the international auction market afer having spent over two decades in an important private collection. This is a rare opportunity for the collector of extraordinary timepieces to add it to his or her collection before the present lot disappears again for another twenty years.
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Breguet – A rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds and date
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1978
Movement No.
2632
Case No.
996
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2632, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Width
Signed
Dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-7,000 $5,300-7,400 €4,300-6,000 Accessories Accompanied By Breguet certifcate confrming production of the present watch in 1978.
During the 1970s, with the advent of the Quartz crisis, Swiss watchmakers began to explore creative ways of creating new wristwatches. Manufacturers pushed the boundaries of design, producing “funky” and unusual pieces that the market had not seen before. The present watch was conceived during an interesting time in the brand’s history. In 1970, the manufacture was acquired by Jacques and Pierre Chaumet, and in 1975, was subsequently handed over to Francois Bodet who was tasked with developing the brand. The tonneau-shaped case and grené dial is completely diferent from Breguet’s usual designs, and looks completely modern by today’s standards. Research shows that approximately 20 were made, making the present example an incredibly rare specimen.
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An exceedingly rare and attractive diver’s fyback chronograph wristwatch with internal rotating bezel
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1978
Case No.
956
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 725, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Tropic
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
43mm Width, 44mm Length
Signed
Case numbered, dial signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,200-42,300 €17,100-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Certifcate confrming production of the present watch in 1978 and its subsequent sale on May 28, 1984 for 4,000 French Francs.
A certain suave coolness literally oozes from this Breguet diver’s chronograph. But not an ordinary coolness: a “Miles Davis on stage playing the trumpet” kind of cool. Discovering this timepiece that we had not only never seen but never even heard of is one of those epiphanous moments in a watch specialist’s career where surprise, excitement and exhilaration merge into joy and enthusiasm.
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The present Breguet , bearing the number 956, presents the genetic codes of the famboyant diver watches of the 60s/70s, with its massive cushion shaped case, crown at 9 o’clock controlling the internal rotating bezel to time dives and matte black dial with luminous indexes. Breguet’s only known adventure into so called “tool” watches was with the Type XX originally made for the pilots of the French naval forces. However, as seen with the dive watch N°1613 also ofered in this sale, Breguet experimented with dive watches but most probably decided not to pursue the adventure. The Type XX and aviation heritage is nevertheless present in this timepiece as Breguet interestingly used the Cal 725 also found in the Type XX, and as such this piece is the frst diver’s chronograph we encounter which also has a fyback function, adding a technical twist to an already surprising watch. This explains the complete and utter novelty and rarity of this diver’s chronograph in overall superb condition. A timepiece with a somewhat machismo arrogance yet sophisticated and seductive, this Breguet may be the chance of a lifetime to own such a unique timepiece.
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Breguet “Diver’s Flyback Chronograph”
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273.
A rare and highly attractive stainless steel skeletonized perpetual calendar automatic wristwatch with moonphases, bracelet and box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2002
Reference No.
25829ST
Movement No.
405’660
Case No.
E-20824 and N. 125
Model Name
QuantiŃ?me Perpetuel Automatique
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2120/2802, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-35,000 $26,500-37,100 â‚Ź21,400-30,000 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet wooden presentation box and outer packaging
The 1990s are a fascinating period for watchmaking: 20 years had passed since the quartz crisis and the market was showing the frst signs of a newfound interest for the feld of mechanical timepieces, a trend which would fully blossom in the 2000s. The brands, however, started to react to these signals.
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The conservative style of the 1970s and 1980s - defned by simple dials and elaborated case designs - started to give way to bolder dial designs. Skeletonized dials are one of the results of this new trend: virtually nonexistent in the 1980s, they began to make their ways into watch designs in the frst half of the 1990s. In the 1990s, three Audemars Piguet Royal Oak models featured a skeletonize dial: reference 14794 (a skeletonize time only wristwatch) reference 25729 (a skeletonize pocket watch with perpetual calendar and moonphases), and the present reference 25829. Reference 25829 (and its pocket counterpart) are powered by calibre 2120/2802, at the time the thinnest automatic perpetual calendar movement available on the market. Aesthetically speaking, reference 25829 is immensely charismatic. While sometimes skeletonized dials can be difcult to read, the design of this model, thanks to the four cutout subdials, is perfectly readable without sacrifcing the openworks feel of the skeleton dial. The combination of sublime technical execution and unmistakable looks has over time led the collector community to consecrate this model as one of the most interesting, attractive and collectible complicated Royal Oak executions. According to the Archives of Audemars Piguet, the present watch was sold in Italy in 2002.
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AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 25829ST Royal Oak “Skeletonized Perpetual Calendar”
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274.
ROLEX – A rare and attractive pink gold calendar wristwatch with center seconds, Arabic day and date wheel, bracelet and guarantee, made for the Sultanate of Oman
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1975
Reference No.
1803
Movement No.
DD’949’499
Case No.
4’146’423
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Rolex concealed deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-20,000 $15,900-21,200 €12,900-17,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched guarantee, service receipt dated January 4, 2016, sales tag, product literature, wallet, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Introduced to the market in 1956, the Day-Date has seen a multitude of watch design variations. It is one of the most varied, unusual and creative models the frm has ever produced. This pink gold Day-Date is ftted with a “Khanjar” dial, featuring the red Khanjar symbol, which is part of the national emblem of Oman. Watches ftted with “Khanjar” dials were made on special request from His Majesty Qaboos bin Said Al Said, the Sultan of Oman, and presented as gifs to his closest dignitaries and servants. As a fnishing touch, the present day and date wheel is printed in Arabic, providing another detail of interest. Presented in excellent condition with sharp fnishes to the top of the lugs, this watch is furthermore accompanied by its original punched guarantee and Rolex service paper from 2016.
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275.
ROLEX – A fne and attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with burgundy “Stella” dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
circa 1979
Reference No.
18038
Movement No.
0’296’701
Case No.
5’909’127
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k yellow gold Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,600-15,900 €8,600-12,900
Presented in 1978, reference 18038 introduced a quick set date function (made possible with the caliber 3055) and sapphire crystal - two upgrades from reference 1803, which was ftted with an acrylic crystal and did not allow the wearer to simply change the date by pulling out the crown halfway. These ‘Stella’ dials have spectacular multi-layered lacquer coated dials combined with vibrant and rich colors that create a glistening, twinkling efect. ‘Stella’ dials come in an outstanding variety of colors, yet the color of the present watch, whether you call it oxblood or burgundy, is one popular with collectors. This is due in no small part to the richness and vitality of the layered lacquer, dark enough to not seem overtly tropical, yet vivid enough to capture the eye of the passing observer. With its mesmerizing dial and well-preserved, virtually unused case, this exemplary version of Rolex’s most prestigious model is sure to delight the demanding connoisseur.
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276.
An attractive, rare and large stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1977
Reference No.
3700/1
Movement No.
1’303’543
Case No.
532’713
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28-255, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 $31,800-63,500 €25,700-51,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1977 and its subsequent sale on June 20, 1977. Further accompanied by outer and inner service box.
Few watches have attained such an iconic status that their name alone sufces to recognize the maker and the design. Daytona, Royal Oak, Reverso and of course Nautilus immediately come to mind. Launched in 1976, the Nautilus, named afer Captain Nemo’s submarine, was an immense breakthrough from Patek Philippe’s conservative designs and proof that haute horlogerie
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and audacity can go hand in hand to create an icon that is still relevant 40 years later. Legend has it that the idea of creating a watch in the shape of a porthole found on transatlantic liners came to designer extraordinaire Gerald Genta whilst dining at a restaurant during the Basel fair and looking at the Patek Philippe team dining on a table opposite his. The whole design having taken no more than 5 minutes! Patek Philippe produced two versions of the Nautilus reference 3700 in steel, 3700/01 from 1976 to about 1981 that featured a straight bracelet and reference 3700/11 which was in production from 1981 to 1990 has a tapered steel bracelet. Beating within is the caliber 28-255, based on the legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre JLC 920 automatic movement (which was never used by Jaeger-LeCoultre) and heavily modifed by Patek Philippe, it was at the time the world’s thinnest automatic movement with date at only 3.05mm. thick and found in two other models representing haute horlogerie groovy chic: Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and Vacheron Constantin’s 222. Property of the original owner, the present Nautilus was serviced by Patek Philippe a decade ago where it received an immaculate dial replacement, and has ever since been sleeping in a safe. The present Nautilus reference 3700/1 in steel is the 146th to ever appear in an international auction room. In excellent condition with a strong case and sharp bevels, this model is a must have in the collection of the savvy collector.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3700/1 Nautilus
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277.
A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with subsidiary seconds, retailed by Beyer
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1966
Reference No.
3466
Movement No.
1’115’729
Case No.
2’649’330
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe tang buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed; dial further signed Beyer
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1966 and its subsequent sale on June 20, 1966.
Fresh to the market, and, according to scholarship, one of very few Beyer-signed reference 3466 to appear publicly , the current lot is distinguished by the superb overall condition, the prestigious ‘Beyer’ retailer signature on its fawless dial, and a superb automatic movement - all housed in a sturdy yet elegant stainless steel case. The faceted baton markers gleam as light hits them, as do the tiny silver pearls representing the minute markers.
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The retailer Beyer Chronometrie, founded in 1760 by Matthias Beyer, presently located in Zürich since 1927, has been a preeminent destination for those seeking the fnest luxury watches for over two hundred years. Producing their own honey in beehives located on the roof of their exclusive location, Beyer has a world-class watch and clock museum on premises. Having sold Patek Philippe timepieces since 1842, it is natural then that Beyer was one of the few retailers allowed to print their name on a Patek Philippe dial. Dubbed by many as “la grande dame des automatiques Suisse,” the automatic caliber 27-460 is the successor to the frst automatic movement produced by Patek Philippe, the caliber 12-600 AT, which powered Patek Philippe’s mostly precious metal, time-only watches from 1953 until 1960. When the caliber 27-460 replaced the 12-600 AT, it was upgraded with a sturdier rotor ball bearing, among other adjustments. It then remained in production until 1985, when it was replaced by the caliber 240 with micro-rotor. Most striking is the full 18k yellow gold rotor, beautifully and lavishly engine-turned and quite large. To use such a costly mechanism inside a steel watch was rare for Patek Philippe, and adds to the importance of this 3466. With its timeless style, a relatively large 35 mm case diameter, and its superb state of preservation, the present lot is a rare opportunity for connoisseurs of vintage steel luxury watches.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3466 “Beyer”
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278.
A fne and rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with silvered dial and tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1953
Reference No.
130
Movement No.
868’564
Case No.
672’248
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
stamped PPCo
In production for almost 30 years, reference 130 is the most iconic and recognizable of vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches and is a winning combination of the celebrated “Calatrava” case design with the sporty elegance of a chronograph. Made in stainless steel, yellow and pink gold with a multitude of dial combinations, its simple yet elegant design symbolizes the frm’s balance between classicism and high watchmaking. The present Patek Philippe reference 130 is ofered in very appealing condition. The case is nicely preserved, with a crisp hallmark clearly visible on the case side. The silvered color dial is beautifully accented with yellow gold applied 6 and 12 Arabic numerals and square indexes.
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 ∆ $21,200-31,800 €17,100-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1953 and its subsequent sale on April 12, 1954.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 130
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279.
A very attractive stainless steel diverÕs wristwatch with glossy tropical dial and pointed crown guards
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1960
Reference No.
5512 inside caseback stamped 1.61
Movement No.
61’998
Case No.
662’017
Model Name
Submariner “Meters First Glossy Tropical Dial”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1530, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, max length 215mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex folding deployant clasp, further engraved “Joske’s Hecho en Mexico”
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $26,500-52,900 €21,400-42,900
Launched in 1959, the Rolex Submariner reference 5512 was the frst Submariner to feature crown guards. That year, Rolex introduced this major upgrade that improved the reliability and robustness of the tool watch underwater. Over its 15 years of production, the model saw diferent generations that distinguish themselves mainly by the crown guards shape or inscription on the dial. This variant features pointed crown guards, chapter ring and only 2 lines of gilt text on the black glossy dial. This early example stands out by the absence of signs that would indicate the use of tritium in the luminous. This very efcient tool watch is presented today in excellent condition. In addition to fnding a watch that displays all the original and distinctive features of its generation, the savvy collector will be seduced by the most appealing color of its dial. With the efect of time, the later has wonderfully turned to a warm and deep chocolate brown giving this superb watch an even more attractive appeal. In 1867, Julius Joske founded a department store in Texas (San Antonio). By the 50s’ it was the largest store in Texas and in the country. It was also an ofcial Rolex retailer. Joske had Rolex bracelets made for them in Mexico in the 60s and 70s in order to minimize taxes.
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ROLEX Ref. 5512 Submariner “Meters First Glossy Tropical Dial”
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280.
An extremely rare and early stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and “foating” Daytona signature
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1964
Reference No.
6239
Case No.
1’090’462
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, endlinks stamped 49, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp,
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed
stamped 10-9, marked U.S.A.
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $31,800-52,900 €25,700-42,900 Literature Similar examples of the reference 6239 with suspended “Daytona” logo are illustrated in Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo pp. 108-115.
Ofen in the early production runs of Rolex references, the intrepid collector can fnd a number of curious eccentricities – whether on the dial, the bezel, or even the chronograph pushers. Rolex’s tendency to experiment with market tastes has resulted in these variations becoming prized amongst today’s collectors, as they indicate rarity and provide a glimpse into Rolex’s secretive production history. The reference 6239, the frst Cosmograph Daytona introduced into Rolex’s collection, was launched in 1963, and scholars generally agree that the earliest 6239s began around the serial number 922’900. The earliest 6239s had no Daytona logo on the dial, with the commonly accepted reasoning being that Rolex wanted to capitalize on society’s fascination with space travel, but also to concentrate their marketing eforts on a specifc geographic location. That frst full year of production, 1964, Rolex sponsored both the French Le Mans and the American Daytona motor sport endurance races. Indeed, the Cosmograph was initially marketed as the ‘Le Mans’, but Rolex quickly switched gears and settled on the American ‘Daytona’ product name, which would soon begin appearing on dials. The earliest dials with the ‘Daytona’ designation are rare and highly coveted, as they are typically printed in a smaller script, centered below the ‘Cosmograph’ designation closer to the middle of the dial. This disjointed appearance has given way to the term “foating” or “suspended” as a descriptor for these dials. The present watch, with the serial 1’090’462, is one of the earliest examples of any Cosmograph reference to appear publicly with the Daytona logo and the earliest example to appear with black dial and silver subsidiary dials. Such examples, when unearthed, continue to stimulate the vintage Rolex collecting community with their novelty. Both the designations ‘Cosmograph’ and ‘Daytona’ are printed in silver script, while the ‘Rolex’ remains printed in bold white. The ‘T Swiss T’ below the subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock is printed in a similar method to other early iterations, in silver with the ‘T’s slightly above the ‘Swiss’ designation. Its manually-wound Valjoux caliber 72B is marked ‘ROW’ indicating export to the United States, and is ftted with a stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet also stamped ‘United States’. This rather American watch sheds further light on an experimental time in Rolex’s history, and it can be considered a rare opportunity for the discerning collector.
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ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph “Floating Daytona”
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281.
A fne and very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with aubergine “tropical” dial, bracelet, guarantee and box, retailed by Tifany & Co.
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1976
Reference No.
6265
Case No.
3’961’797
Model Name
Oyster Cosmograph
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78350, end links stamped 571, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed,
stamped DE11 and 78350
dial further signed Tifany & Co. Estimate CHF 70,000-100,000 $74,100-106,000 €60,000-85,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Garantie stamped Tifany & Co., Tifany & Co. presentation box and outer packaging.
It is remarkable how many attractive features the present 6265 specimen ofers to the connoisseur of fne timepieces. The most apparent one is of course the exclusive “Tifany & Co.” signature below the usual “Rolex Oyster Cosmograph” designation. Any retailer signature is a very welcome addition to a timepiece, but the Tifany & Co. one even more so given the importance and prominence of the name among luxury brands. Furthermore, the present piece not only is one of the very rare Daytonas blessed with a Tifany dial, but also comes accompanied by its original box and guarantee. The Guarantee is indeed stamped by: “Tifany & Co. 727 Fifh Avenue, New York” - coincidentally, 727 is also the caliber powering this timepiece. To the delight of the most demanding collectors, the box is the original Tifany & Co. one, and it is accompanied by the outer packaging in the iconic “Tifany Blue” color. A much more noteworthy characteristic of this piece reveals itself when examining the watch in full daylight: the subsidiary counters have tropicalized to a very subtle aubergine tonality, one of the most elusive tropicalization colors to have been observed so far. An additional layer of appeal is revealed by examining the case back, which bears the engraving “H. W. Hobler 12-16-76”, a perfect match - down to the dots and the full capitalization - of the name present on the guarantee.
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ROLEX Ref. 6265 Oyster Cosmograph “Tifany & Co.”
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282.
A fne, rare and extremely attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1968
Reference No.
6239, case back furthermore stamped C.R.S. 6239
Case No.
1’782’150
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex USA deployant clasp
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 120,000-180,000 $127,000-191,000 €103,000-154,000 Accessories Accompanied by instructions booklet.
While the international attention watch collecting in general and Daytona collecting specifcally - are receiving nowadays is a joy for the community, which in the past few years has thrived and grown as never before, it comes also with a downside. Namely, there being more collectors, collectible timepieces are more and more difcult to acquire. That is especially true for never before seen timepieces, especially if ofered by the original owners: such gems are actively hunted down by both dealers and private collectors with such a passion that their number is growing thinner by the month. Luckily, while more and more scarce, such pieces do still happen to appear on the auction market, ofering unmissable opportunities to the collectors who want to enjoy the inefable
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thrill of being in possession of an “original owner” timepiece, whose history can be traced back to the moment of sale in the boutique and which has been a treasured possession for one or at times even more generations of the same family. The present watch not only is indeed ofered by the original owner himself, but it furthermore is no simple chronograph, but rather a representative of what can be considered at the moment one of the most collectible models ever made: the Daytona “Paul Newman”. Purchased in 1969, the history of this specimen fully embodies the core values that made the Daytona the icon it is today. In 1967, the future owner of the piece acquired his frst high performance car. It was a small step getting from that to the world of car racing, of which he soon became an avid fan. Over the next two years he attended more and more racing events and then he decided he needed a watch suitable for the race track. Needless to say, the choice was indeed the present Cosmograph Daytona with exotic dial. True to his intention, the owner used it as a racing tool, sporadically wearing it on the racing track Elkhart Lake, Wisconsin. For the rest of the time, the piece was stored at home, unused. It was only recently that the owner was made aware of its appeal and collectability, and decided to allow it to make its way to a new home. Its provenance and collectability are fully matched by the condition of its dial: it is virtually fawless, without any mark or scratch; all the luminous accents - a very delicate detail which is gathering more and more attention by purists of the brand - are all present and original, perfectly preserved without any sort of loss or faking.
30/03/18 09:27
ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
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283.
A very attractive and extremely rare yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1951
Reference No.
1518
Movement No.
868’105
Case No.
674’131
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’130 Q, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold modern Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 250,000-500,000 $265,000-529,000 €214,000-429,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1951 and its subsequent sale on November 3, 1953. Literature Reference 1518 is illustrated in Patek Philippe Wristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, frst edition p. 231 pl. 386, second edition p. 303 pl. 459.
It is surprising how certain masterpieces are born in times of turmoil, Patek Philippe’s reference 1518 being one of them. Patek Philippe’s reference 1518 is a milestone in the history of wristwatches and greatly contributed to the manufacturer’s dominant position in the Swiss watchmaking industry. Launched in 1941, in the midst of World War II, reference 1518 is the very frst perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch to be made in series. Not only did it set the design elements used by Patek Philippe in all of its subsequent perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatches, but in its own manner greatly contributed to the manufacturer’s dominant position in the watchmaking industry and launched the series production of multi-complicated wristwatches within the Swiss industry (at an epoch where multi complications were bespoke orders). Scholarship indicates that only 281 examples of reference 1518 were made between 1941 and 1954, in yellow and pink gold. Today only four in stainless steel are known. The present lot is in overall beautiful condition and appears on the market only for the second time. The present perpetual calendar chronograph is a very attractive example of this horological milestone. The masculine case has wonderful presence with its long lugs and wide opening for the dial enhancing the impression of size. Bringing life to this superb example of horological ingenuity is the manual caliber 13’’130 Q (for Quantième, “date” in French), based on a Valjoux caliber 13Q which was modifed by the “watchmaker’s watchmaker” Victorin Piguet to incorporate the calendar complications. Renowned casemaker Emile Vichet S.A. was responsible for manufacturing cases for some of Patek Philippe’s most coveted references and the present watch is not an exception, as the latter’s Poinçon de Maître key 9, also known as a collective responsibility mark, is found beneath the reference and case number inside the caseback. Furthermore, the caseback is stamped with London hallmarks confrming the “mile” base tachymeter scale on the dial. This reference 1518 has remained in an important private collection since its purchase at auction in 1981 and is returning back to the market 30 years later. The present lot does not only represent and exceptional example of Patek Philippe’s unparalleled mechanical expertise, but is also a landmark in horological design.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1518
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284.
An extremely rare, important, attractive and large pink gold chronograph wristwatch with tow-tone dial, tachymeter scale and applied Arabic numerals
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1956
Reference No.
530
Movement No.
868’900
Case No.
516’592
Model Name
“Two-Tone Dial”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold pin buckle signed PPCo
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 200,000-300,000 $212,000-318,000 €171,000-257,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1956 and its subsequent sale on December 8, 1961.
One must be made of stone to hold this chronograph without a feeling of awe and excitement. The present Patek Philippe reference 530 chronograph irradiates with elegance, class and sheer refnement with its large perfect pink gold case and shimmering two tone silver dial.
Reference 530 was frst launched in 1937, and remains one of the rarest chronograph models manufactured by the frm. In fact only 14 examples of the large reference 530 in pink gold are known, the present lot being the latest known example and thus possibly the last one ever produced. Even though it takes design cues from its sister model, reference 130, the case size of reference 530 remains substantial even to today’s standards with a whopping 36.5mm. diameter which wears even larger thanks to the very thin bezel. The present reference 530, originally property of a French family, explaining the French hallmarks in the caseback, was frst ofered publicly at Sotheby’s in 1999 and purchased by the current consigner, meaning that it has had only two owners since its sale in 1961! When the present watch appeared at auction for the frst time, its dial was unfortunately damaged and unftting for such a magnifcent timepiece. The private collector who was now the proud owner of this superlative timepiece decided to ofer his watch an immaculate dial worthy of such a rare and important timepiece. To do so, he obviously turned to Cadraniers de Genève, successors to Stern Frères, who not only had the original tooling and “blue print” but also the know-how and expertise to undertake this delicate and daunting task. The objective was not to completely redo the dial but to restore the elements that were damaged using only the techniques originally used in 1956 when the dial lef the Stern Frères ateliers. A long and painstaking journey thus started necessitating the intervention of numerous crafsmen, close to 120 diferent print transfers for the various indications and hand engraving and enameling for the signature resulting in over 50 hours of man work to achieve. For the sake of originality the dial was also stamped “Fab Suisse”, an indication of origin requested for the import of timepieces into France. The fnal outcome is nothing short of astounding, no expense and no efort was spared in this quest and the result is a timepiece of transcendental beauty that undoubtedly could be a crown jewel in any collection.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 530 “Two-Tone Dial”
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285.
A rare and attractive yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases
Launched in 1951, reference 2499 is an incredibly timeless and sought-afer timepiece. With its 37.5 millimeter case and harmonious dial confguration, it remains an incredibly modernlooking wristwatch today. Considered one of the most beautiful serially-produced models ever created, it is a “trophy watch� for many collectors. In production for 34 years, this highly exclusive perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch was made in 349 pieces. Produced by Wenger, the case boasts beautiful futed lugs that hug the wrist wonderfully. While the present watch is a third series example, reference 2499 can be divided into four categories: First series watches feature square chronograph buttons, applied Arabic numerals and display a tachymeter scale on the dial. Second series watch feature round chronograph buttons, either applied baton or applied Arabic numerals and a tachymeter scale on the dial. Third series, like this watch, feature round chronograph buttons, applied baton numerals and outer seconds divisions. Fourth series feature round chronograph buttons, applied baton numerals, outer seconds divisions and a sapphire crystal.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2499
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285.
A rare and attractive yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1977
Reference No.
2499
Movement No.
869’466
Case No.
2’700’424
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’Q, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 300,000-500,000 $318,000-529,000 €257,000-429,000
This particular example is preserved in excellent condition with strong futing on the lugs and robust case proportions. Compared to its predecessor reference 1518, reference 2499’s stepped lugs give the watch even more presence on the wrist. Furthermore, third series dials most notably display hard enamel printing that is slightly more shallow than its second series siblings, which is evident on this watch. On this example, the accent above the “e” in “Genève” is still present and all the graphics remain intact. Interestingly, third series watches also display a lighter hallmark, which is still visible beneath the crown on this watch. Its good looks coupled with its desirability renders this timepiece one of the most collectible vintage wristwatches on the market today.
Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1977 and its subsequent sale on August 30, 1977 and presentation box.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2499
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Index
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
234
A. Lange & Söhne
116.025
Lange 1 Zeitzone
195
Longines
5483
232
A. Lange & Söhne
212.05
Homage to F. A. Lange 1815 Moon phase
210
Longines
5824
233
A. Lange & Söhne
297.078
1815 “Homage to Walter Lange”
211
Longines
6476/3811
235
A. Lange & Söhne
410.425 E
Datograph Perpetual
146
Longines
6592-6
273
Audemars Piguet
25829ST
Quantieme Perpetuel Automatique
145
Longines
7042-1
263
Audemars Piguet
5543BA
"Grande Complication"
207
Longines
Model Name
Stopseconde
258
Audemars Piguet
138
Ludovic Ballouard
259
Audemars Piguet
205
Mulco
289 101
Prima
156
Blancpain
106
Omega
145.012-67 SP
Speedmaster “Racing Dial”
270
Breguet
159
Omega
2486-1
"Cosmic"
119
Breguet
"Pre Type XX"
124
Omega
2915-1
Speedmaster
120
Breguet
Type XX
209
Omega
2998-1
Speedmaster
121
Breguet
Type XX
123
Omega
CK 2913-7 SC
Seamaster 300
122
Breguet
Type XX
157
Omega
CK 2998-3
Speedmaster
227
Breguet
160
Omega
H6582/D96043
107
Omega
OT 2364
Chronomètre
158
Omega
ST 188.0002
Prototype Alaska III
213
Panerai
3646
"Type D"
212
Panerai
6152-1
Luminor
Fify Fathoms "Barracuda" 35-865
Upside Down
228
Breguet
229
Breguet
230
Breguet
231
Breguet
269
Breguet
191
Patek Philippe
96
Calatrava
271
Breguet
192
Patek Philippe
96
Calatrava
272
Breguet
219
Patek Philippe
96
103
Breitling
765 CP
Co-Pilot "Raquel Welch"
223
Patek Philippe
130
104
Breitling
806
Navitimer
278
Patek Philippe
130
105
Breitling
807
SuperOcean
199
Patek Philippe
530
204
Bulgari (Attributed to)
879
"Serpenti"
284
Patek Philippe
530
184
Cartier
2488
Tank Asymétrique
196
Patek Philippe
565
182
Cartier
2567
Tank Cintrée Dual Time
262
Patek Philippe
570
183
Cartier
A106028
Tank Cintrée
151
Patek Philippe
600/1
139
De Bethune
DB12RT
266
Patek Philippe
605 HU DE
134
F.P. Journe
Chronomètre Souverain
265
Patek Philippe
658
135
F.P. Journe
Chronomètre Souverain
202
Patek Philippe
707
136
F.P. Journe
Chronomètre à Resonance
203
Patek Philippe
902
137
F.P. Journe
Tourbillon Souverain
201
Patek Philippe
1135
"Les 4 Saisons de Vivaldi"
162
Heuer
2446
Autavia "3rd Execution Transitional"
268
Patek Philippe
1415
"Eurasia"
161
Heuer
73663
Autavia KAF-198
237
Patek Philippe
1491
"Riccio" or "Fernandel"
101
Heuer
1133B
Monaco "McQueen"
283
Patek Philippe
1518
102
Heuer
1163T
Autavia "White Orange boy"
198
Patek Philippe
1579
165
Heuer
2446SF
Solunagraph
221
Patek Philippe
1593
197
IWC
325
Portugieser
220
Patek Philippe
2456 2481
1289 N°586
142
Jaeger-LeCoultre
2721
152
Patek Philippe
141
Jaeger-LeCoultre
A & B: E114 C & D: E212-62
285
Patek Philippe
2499
143
Jaeger-LeCoultre
E 2643
“Shark Deep Sea”
226
Patek Philippe
2499/100
144
Jaeger-LeCoultre
E859
Memovox Polaris
200
Patek Philippe
2554
166
Leonidas
Tipo CP-1
126
Patek Philippe
2577
208
Longines
129
Patek Philippe
2584
4994
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Calatrava Worldtime "Arabesques"
"The Hour Glass"
"Manta Ray"
30/03/18 09:32
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
127
Patek Philippe
2597
181
Patek Philippe
3367/1
224
Patek Philippe
3448
130
Patek Philippe
277
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
280
Rolex
6239
Cosmograph Daytona
282
Rolex
6239
Cosmograph Daytona "Paul Newman"
254
Rolex
6240
Cosmograph Daytona "Paul Newman”
3450
245
Rolex
6241
Cosmograph Daytona "Paul Newman"
Patek Philippe
3466
172
Rolex
6262
Cosmograph Daytona "Paul Newman"
189
Patek Philippe
3585
179
Rolex
6263
Oyster Cosmograph "Paul Newman"
125
Patek Philippe
3700/1
Nautilus
217
Rolex
6263
Oyster Cosmograph "FAP"
276
Patek Philippe
3700/1
Nautilus
240
Rolex
6263
Oyster Cosmograph Daytona "Big Red"
188
Patek Philippe
3970
242
Rolex
6263
Cosmograph Daytona
190
Patek Philippe
4381/3
251
Rolex
6263
Cosmograph Daytona
267
Patek Philippe
5131
171
Rolex
6265
Oyster Cosmograph Daytona
186
Patek Philippe
5575
176
Rolex
6265
Cosmograph
132
Patek Philippe
5970
216
Rolex
6265
Cosmograph Daytona
131
Patek Philippe
5975G
281
Rolex
6265
Cosmograph Daytona
264
Patek Philippe
241
Rolex
6305
Datejust
116
Rolex
1019
Milgauss
225
Rolex
6542
GMT-Master "Pussy Galore"
239
Rolex
1513
Datejust
154
Rolex
6605
Datejust
153
Rolex
1601
Datejust
118
Rolex
6609
Datejust Turn-O-Graph "Thunderbird"
250
Rolex
1655
"Freccione Rail Dial"
173
Rolex
6611B
Day-Date
109
Rolex
1675
GMT-Master
175
Rolex
6927
Datejust
108
Rolex
1680
Red Submariner
167
Rolex
16238
DateJust
110
Rolex
1680
Submariner
169
Rolex
16520
Cosmograph Daytona "P Series"
238
Rolex
1680
Submariner
248
Rolex
16528
Cosmograph Daytona
111
Rolex
1803
Day-Date
177
Rolex
16758
GMT-Master "SARU"
113
Rolex
1803
Day-Date "Stella"
148
Rolex
18026
Day-Date
147
Rolex
1803
Day-Date
112
Rolex
18038
Day-Date "Stella"
274
Rolex
1803
Day-Date
149
Rolex
18038
Day-Date
114
Rolex
1804
Day-Date "Octopussy"
249
Rolex
18038
Day-Date
244
Rolex
2021
275
Rolex
18038
Day-Date
246
Rolex
3525
168
Rolex
18238
Day-Date
236
Rolex
4051
170
Rolex
116509
Cosmograph Daytona
255
Rolex
4062
247
Rolex
116598 SACO
Cosmograph Daytona "Leopard"
222
Rolex
4467
Datejust "Ovettone"
115
Rolex
18239B
Day-Date Tridor
214
Rolex
5018
"Bubbleback"
133
Ulysse Nardin
910-22
Astrolabium Galileo Galilei
252
Rolex
5512
Submariner
150
Universal
10232 1
279
Rolex
5512
Submariner "Meter First"
163
Universal
881101/04
Tri-Compax
117
Rolex
5513
"Milsub"
164
Universal
884100/01
Uni-Compax ‘Big Eye’
215
Rolex
5513
Submariner
206
Universal
128
Rolex
6062
"Stelline"
140
Urwerk
UR-110 PG
180
Rolex
6062
"Stelline"
256
Vacheron Constantin
4178
243
Rolex
6234
Oyster Chronograph
194
Vacheron Constantin
4710
174
Rolex
6236
"Jean-Claude Killy"
193
Vacheron Constantin
4726
155
Rolex
6238
"Pre-Daytona"
260
Vacheron Constantin
6075
Chronomètre Royal
178
Rolex
6238
"Pre-Daytona"
257
Vacheron Constantin
6440
"Cioccolatone"
218
Rolex
6239
Cosmograph Daytona Tifany & Co.
261
Vacheron Constantin
6782
"Turnograph"
253
Rolex
6239
Cosmograph Daytona "Paul Newman"
185
Vacheron Constantin
47031
Malte Perpetual Calendar
187
Vacheron Constantin
30020/000P
GEN_WATCHES_APR18_280-367_BL.indd 351
Model Name
"Padellone"
"Multi-Scale Chronograph"
Oyster Chronograph “Bariletto”
Compur Torpedo
30/03/18 09:32
Paddle Number
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• By signing this Bid Form, you consent to our use of your personal data, including sensitive personal data, in accordance with Phillips’s Privacy Policy published on our website at www.phillips. com or available on request by emailing dataprotection@phillips. com. We may send you materials about us and our services or other information which we think you may fnd interesting. If you would prefer not to receive such information, please email us at dataprotection@phillips.com. • Phillips’s premises may be subject to video surveillance and recording. Telephone calls (e.g., telephone bidding) may also be recorded. We may process that information in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
Date
By signing this form, you accept the Conditions of Sale of Phillips as stated in our catalogues and on our website.
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Patek Philippe A highly important and extremely rare pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch, ref. 2438/1 made in 1954 with certifcate, invoice, box and Extract from the Archives. Estimate: HK$3,500,000 – HK$7,000,000
Watches. Hong Kong. Now. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: SIX Hong Kong, 29 May 2018 Enquiries Thomas Perazzi + 852 2318 2030
phillips.com
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Guide for Prospective Buyers Buying at Auction The following pages are designed to ofer you information on how to buy at auction at Phillips. Our staf will be happy to assist you. Conditions of Sale The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty which appear later in this catalogue govern the auction. Bidders are strongly encouraged to read them as they outline the legal relationship among Phillips, the seller and the buyer and describe the terms upon which property is bought at auction. Please be advised that Phillips generally acts as agent for the seller. Bidders should also read the Important Notices immediately following this Guide for Prospective Buyers. Buyer’s Premium and Vat Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or buyer’s premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The buyer’s premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 25% of the hammer price up to and including CHF250,000, 20% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF250,000 up to and including CHF4,000,000 and 12.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF4,000,000. Value added tax (VAT) of 7.7% is payable on the hammer price and the buyer’s premium. This tax is refunded to any buyer domiciled outside Switzerland if, but only if, Phillips receives from such buyer an export declaration in respect of a purchased lot which has been stamped by Swiss customs. The purchase price payable for any lot is the sum of the hammer price plus the buyer’s premium plus VAT. 1 Prior to Auction Catalogue Subscriptions If you would like to purchase a catalogue for this auction or any other Phillips sale, please contact us at +41 22 317 8181, +44 20 7318 4010 or +1 212 940 1240. Pre-Sale Estimates Pre-sale estimates are intended as a guide for prospective buyers. Any bid within the high and low estimate range should, in our opinion, ofer a chance of success. However, many lots achieve prices below or above the pre-sale estimates. Where ‘Estimate on Request’ appears, please contact the specialist department for further information. It is advisable to contact us closer to the time of the auction as estimates can be subject to revision. Pre-sale estimates do not include the buyer’s premium or VAT. Pre-Sale Estimates in US Dollars and Euros Although the sale is conducted in Swiss francs, the pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogues may also be printed in US dollars and/or euros. Since the exchange rate is that at the time of catalogue production and not at the date of auction, you should treat estimates in US dollars or euros as a guide only. Catalogue Entries Phillips may print in the catalogue entry the history of ownership of a work of art, as well as the exhibition history of the property and references to the work in art publications. While we are careful in the cataloguing process, provenance, exhibition and literature references may not be exhaustive and in some cases we may intentionally refrain from disclosing the identity of previous owners. Please note that all dimensions of the property set forth in the catalogue entry are approximate. Condition of Lots Our catalogues include references to condition only in the descriptions of multiple works (e.g., prints). Such references, though, do not amount to a full description of condition. The absence of reference to the condition of a lot in the catalogue entry does not imply that the lot is free from faults or imperfections. Solely as a convenience to clients, Phillips may provide condition reports. In preparing such reports, our specialists assess the condition in a manner appropriate to the estimated value of the property. While condition reports are prepared honestly and carefully, our staf are not professional restorers. We therefore encourage all prospective buyers to inspect the property at the presale exhibitions and recommend, particularly in the case of any lot of signifcant
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value, that you retain your own restorer or professional advisor to report to you on the property’s condition prior to bidding. Moreover, condition reports are not exhaustive and may not specify all mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate bases(s) or dome. The absence of a condition report or the absence of a reference to damage in the catalogue does not imply that the lot is in good condition, working order or free from restoration or repair. Pre-Auction Viewing Pre-auction viewings are open to the public and free of charge. Our specialists are available to give advice and condition reports at viewings or by appointment. Symbol Key The following key explains the symbols you may see inside this catalogue. O ♦ Guaranteed Property The seller of lots designated with the symbol O has been guaranteed a minimum price fnanced solely by Phillips. Where the guarantee is provided by a third party or jointly by us and a third party, the property will be denoted with the symbols O ♦. When a third party has fnanced all or part of our fnancial interest in a lot, it assumes all or part of the risk that the lot will not be sold and will be remunerated via a fxed fee, a percentage of the hammer price or the buyer’s premium or some combination of the foregoing. The third party may bid on the guaranteed lot during the auction. If the third party is the successful bidder, the remuneration may be netted against the purchase price. Where Phillips has guaranteed a minimum price on every lot in the catalogue, Phillips will not designate each lot with the symbol(s) for the guaranteed property but will state our fnancial interest at the front of the catalogue. Δ Property in which Phillips has an Ownership Interest Lots with this symbol indicate that Phillips owns the lot in whole or in part or has an economic interest in the lot equivalent to an ownership interest. • No Reserve Unless indicated by a •, all lots in this catalogue are ofered subject to a reserve. A reserve is the confdential value established between Phillips and the seller and below which a lot may not be sold. The reserve for each lot is generally set at a percentage of the low estimate and will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate. ∑ Regulated Species Lots with this symbol have been identifed at the time of cataloguing as containing endangered or other protected species of wildlife which may be subject to restrictions regarding export or import and which may require permits for export as well as import. Please refer to Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers and Paragraph 11 of the Conditions of Sale. 2 Bidding in the Sale Bidding at Auction Bids may be executed during the auction in person by paddle, by telephone, online or prior to the sale in writing by absentee bid. Proof of identity in the form of government-issued identifcation will be required, as will an original signature. We may also require that you furnish us with a bank reference. Bidding in Person To bid in person, you will need to register for and collect a paddle before the auction begins. New clients are encouraged to register at least 48 hours in advance of a sale to allow sufcient time for us to process your information. All lots sold will be invoiced to the name and address to which the paddle has been registered and invoices cannot be transferred to other names and addresses. Please do not misplace your paddle. In the event you lose it, inform a Phillips staf member immediately. At the end of the auction, please return your paddle to the registration desk. Bidding by Telephone If you cannot attend the auction, you may bid live on the telephone with one of our multilingual staf members. This service must be arranged at least 24 hours in advance of the sale and is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least CHF1,000. Telephone bids may be recorded. By bidding on the telephone, you consent to the recording of your conversation. We suggest that you leave a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and VAT, which we can execute on your behalf in the event we are unable to reach you by telephone.
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Online Bidding If you cannot attend the auction in person, you may bid online on our online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. The digital saleroom is optimized to run on Google Chrome, Firefox, Opera and Internet Explorer browsers. Clients who wish to run the platform on Safari will need to install Adobe Flash Player. Follow the links to ‘Auctions’ and ‘Digital Saleroom’ and then pre-register by clicking on ‘Register to Bid Live.’ The frst time you register you will be required to create an account; thereafer you will only need to register for each sale. You must pre-register at least 24 hours before the start of the auction in order to be approved by our bid department. Please note that corporate frewalls may cause difculties for online bidders. Absentee Bids If you are unable to attend the auction and cannot participate by telephone, Phillips will be happy to execute written bids on your behalf. A bidding form can be found at the back of this catalogue. This service is free and confdential. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. Our staf will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Always indicate a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and VAT. Unlimited bids will not be accepted. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence. Employee Bidding Employees of Phillips and our afliated companies, including the huissier or the auctioneer (the ‘Auctioneer’), may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures. Bidding Increments Bidding generally opens below the low estimate and advances in increments of up to 10%, subject to the Auctioneer’s discretion. Absentee bids that do not conform to the increments set below may be lowered to the next bidding increment. CHF50 to CHF1,000 CHF1,000 to CHF2,000 CHF2,000 to CHF3,000 CHF3,000 to CHF5,000 CHF5,000 to CHF10,000 CHF10,000 to CHF20,000 CHF20,000 to CHF30,000 CHF30,000 to CHF50,000 CHF50,000 to CHF100,000 CHF100,000 to CHF200,000 above CHF200,000
by CHF50s by CHF100s by CHF200s by CHF200s, 500, 800 (i.e., CHF4,200, 4,500, 4,800) by CHF500s by CHF1,000s by CHF2,000s by CHF2,000s, 5,000, 8,000 by CHF5,000s by CHF10,000s at the Auctioneer’s discretion
The Auctioneer may vary the increments during the course of the auction at his or her own discretion. 3 The Auction Conditions of Sale As noted above, the auction is governed by the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty. All prospective bidders should read them carefully. They may be amended by saleroom addendum or Auctioneer’s announcement. Interested Parties Announcement In situations where a person allowed to bid on a lot has a direct or indirect interest in such lot, such as the benefciary or executor of an estate selling the lot, a joint owner of the lot or a party providing or participating in a guarantee on the lot, Phillips will make an announcement in the saleroom that interested parties may bid on the lot. Consecutive and Responsive Bidding; No Reserve Lots The Auctioneer may open the bidding on any lot by placing a bid on behalf of the seller. The Auctioneer may further bid on behalf of the seller up to the amount of the reserve by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot is ofered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the Auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s
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low pre-sale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the Auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low presale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the Auctioneer may deem such lot unsold. 4 After the Auction Payment Buyers are required to pay for purchases immediately following the auction unless other arrangements have been agreed with Phillips in writing in advance of the sale. Payment must be made in Swiss francs by wire transfer, as noted in Paragraph 6 of the Conditions of Sale. Neither cash nor checks will be accepted. Credit Cards As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa, MasterCard, Poste Carte, Maestro and CUP (in person transactions only for CUP) to pay for invoices of CHF100,000 or less. A processing fee will apply. Collection It is our policy to request proof of identity on collection of a lot. A lot will be released to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative when Phillips has received full and cleared payment and we are not owed any other amount by the buyer. Afer the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises. Loss or Damage Buyers are reminded that Phillips accepts liability for loss or damage to lots for a maximum of seven days following the auction. Transport and Shipping As a free service for buyers, Phillips will wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. We do not provide packing, handling or shipping services directly. However, we will coordinate with shipping agents instructed by you in order to facilitate the packing, handling and shipping of property purchased at Phillips. Please refer to Paragraph 7 of the Conditions of Sale for more information. Export and Import Licences Before bidding for any property, prospective bidders are advised to make independent enquiries as to whether a licence is required to export the property from Switzerland or to import it into another country. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to comply with all import and export laws and to obtain any necessary licences or permits. The denial of any required licence or permit or any delay in obtaining such documentation will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot. Regulated Species Items made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value, may require a licence or certifcate prior to exportation and additional licences or certifcates upon importation to the US or to any country within or outside the European Union (EU). Please note that the ability to obtain an export licence or certifcate does not ensure the ability to obtain an import licence or certifcate in another country, and vice versa. We suggest that prospective bidders check with their own government regarding wildlife import requirements prior to placing a bid. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any necessary export or import licences or certifcates as well as any other required documentation. Please note that the US prohibits the importation of any item containing African elephant ivory. Asian elephant ivory may be imported in to the US only if accompanied by independent scientifc analysis regarding continent of origin and confrmation the object is more than 100 years old. We have not obtained a scientifc analysis on any lot prior to sale and cannot indicate whether elephant ivory in a particular lot is African or Asian elephant. Buyers purchase these lots at their own risk and will be responsible for the costs of obtaining any scientifc analysis or other report required in connection with their proposed import of such property into the US.
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With regard to any item containing endangered species other than elephant ivory, an importer into the US must provide documented evidence of the species identifcation and age of an object in order to demonstrate that the object qualifes as an antique. This will require the buyer to obtain an independent appraisal certifying the species of endangered material on the object and certifying that the object is not less than 100 years of age. A prospective buyer planning to import an object into the US may not rely on Phillips cataloguing to establish the species of endangered material on the object or to establish the age of the object and must consult with a qualifed independent appraiser prior to placing a bid on the lot. Please note that lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material are marked as a convenience to our clients, but Phillips does not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species.
Important Notices Condition Phillips makes no representation or warranty that any watch or clock is in working order, and no catalogue description of any lot should be construed as so stating. Prospective buyers are advised to have watches and clocks checked by a competent watchmaker or watch or clock restorer before use. As a service to prospective buyers, we may provide a description of the condition of watches and clocks in the catalogue entry, including references to defects and repairs, and furnish a condition report, but such information is not necessarily complete and may not specify all mechanical replacements, restorations or defects. Please note that Phillips does not guarantee the authenticity of any individual components parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since prior repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Nor does Phillips warrant that watches in waterresistant cases are currently water-resistant. Prospective buyers should inspect all watches and clocks prior to the auction to evaluate the condition of property ofered for sale. Exportation of Watch Bands Incorporating Material from Regulated Species Some of the watches ofered for sale in the catalogue may have bands made of endangered or protected animal materials, such as alligator or crocodile, and may not lawfully be exported from the auction site without a CITES export permit. As explained in Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers, these lots are marked with ∑ in the catalogue. Accordingly, for purchased watches that are to be shipped out of the sale site for delivery, Phillips may need to remove and retain the band before shipping the watch and buckle. Authenticity Certifcates Certain manufacturers do not issue certifcates of authenticity, and Phillips has no obligation to furnish a buyer with a certifcate of authenticity from the manufacturer, except when specifcally noted in the catalogue. Unless Phillips is satisfed that we should cancel the sale in accordance with the Authorship Warranty provided in the Conditions of Sale, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certifcate will not constitute grounds for cancellation of the sale.
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Conditions of Sale The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty set forth below govern the relationship between bidders and buyers, on the one hand, and Phillips and sellers, on the other hand. All prospective buyers should read these Conditions of Sale, the Important Notices immediately following the Guide for Prospective Buyers and the Authorship Warranty carefully before bidding. 1 Introduction Each lot in this catalogue is ofered for sale and sold subject to: (a) the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty; (b) additional notices and terms printed in other places in this catalogue, including the Guide for Prospective Buyers and Important Notices and (c) supplements to this catalogue or other written material posted by Phillips in the saleroom, in each case as amended by any addendum or announcement by the auctioneer prior to the auction.
not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be revised from time to time by Phillips at our absolute discretion. Neither Phillips nor any of our afliated companies shall be liable for any diference between the pre-sale estimates for any lot and the actual price achieved at auction or upon resale. 4 Bidding at Auction (a) Phillips has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction or participation in the sale. All bidders must register for a paddle prior to bidding, supplying such information and references as required by Phillips.
These Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty contain all the terms on which Phillips and the seller contract with the buyer.
(b) As a convenience to bidders who cannot attend the auction in person, Phillips may, if so instructed by the bidder, execute written absentee bids on a bidder’s behalf. Absentee bidders are required to submit bids on the ‘Absentee Bid Form’, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. The bidder must clearly indicate the maximum amount he or she intends to bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and value added tax (VAT). The huissier or auctioneer (the ‘Auctioneer’) will not accept an instruction to execute an absentee bid which does not indicate such maximum bid. Our staf will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence.
2 Phillips As Agent Phillips acts as an agent for the seller, unless otherwise indicated in this catalogue or at the time of auction. On occasion, Phillips may own a lot directly, in which case we will act in a principal capacity as a consignor, or a company afliated with Phillips may own a lot, in which case we will act as agent for that company, or Phillips or an afliated company may have a legal, benefcial or fnancial interest in a lot as a secured creditor or otherwise.
(c) Telephone bidders are required to submit bids on the ‘Telephone Bid Form’, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Telephone bidding is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least CHF1000. Phillips reserves the right to require written confrmation of a successful bid from a telephone bidder by fax or otherwise immediately afer such bid is accepted by the Auctioneer. Telephone bids may be recorded and, by bidding on the telephone, a bidder consents to the recording of the conversation.
3 Catalogue Descriptions and Condition of Property Lots are sold subject to the Authorship Warranty, as described in the catalogue (unless such description is changed or supplemented, as provided in Paragraph 1 above) and in the condition that they are in at the time of the sale on the following basis.
(d) Bidders may participate in an auction by bidding online through Phillips’s online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. To bid online, bidders must register online at least 24 hours before the start of the auction. Online bidding is subject to approval by Phillips’s bid department in our sole discretion. As noted in Paragraph 3 above, Phillips encourages online bidders to inspect prior to the auction any lot(s) on which they may bid, and condition reports are available upon request. Bidding in a live auction can progress quickly. To ensure that online bidders are not placed at a disadvantage when bidding against bidders in the room or on the telephone, the procedure for placing bids through Phillips’s online bidding platform is a one-step process. By clicking the bid button on the computer screen, a bidder submits a bid. Online bidders acknowledge and agree that bids so submitted are fnal and may not under any circumstances be amended or retracted. During a live auction, when bids other than online bids are placed, they will be displayed on the online bidder’s computer screen as ‘foor’ bids. ‘Floor’ bids include bids made by the auctioneer to protect the reserve. In the event that an online bid and a ‘foor’ or ‘phone’ bid are identical, the ‘foor’ bid may take precedence at the Auctioneer’s discretion. The next bidding increment is shown for the convenience of online bidders in the bid button. The bidding increment available to online bidders may vary from the next bid actually taken by the Auctioneer, as the Auctioneer may deviate from Phillips’s standard increments at any time at his or her discretion, but an online bidder may only place a bid in a whole bidding increment. Phillips’s bidding increments are published in the Guide for Prospective Buyers.
By bidding at the auction, whether in person, through an agent, by written bid, by telephone bid or other means, bidders and buyers agree to be bound by these Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty.
(a) The knowledge of Phillips in relation to each lot is partially dependent on information provided to us by the seller, and Phillips is not able to and does not carry out exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Prospective buyers acknowledge this fact and accept responsibility for carrying out inspections and investigations to satisfy themselves as to the lots in which they may be interested. Notwithstanding the foregoing, we shall exercise such reasonable care when making express statements in catalogue descriptions or condition reports as is consistent with our role as auctioneer of lots in this sale and in light of (i) the information provided to us by the seller, (ii) scholarship and technical knowledge and (iii) the generally accepted opinions of relevant experts, in each case at the time any such express statement is made. (b) Each lot ofered for sale at Phillips is available for inspection by prospective buyers prior to the auction. Phillips accepts bids on lots on the basis that bidders (and independent experts on their behalf, to the extent appropriate given the nature and value of the lot and the bidder’s own expertise) have fully inspected the lot prior to bidding and have satisfed themselves as to both the condition of the lot and the accuracy of its description. (c) Prospective buyers acknowledge that many lots are of an age and type which means that they are not in perfect condition. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips may prepare and provide condition reports to assist prospective buyers when they are inspecting lots. Catalogue descriptions and condition reports may make reference to particular imperfections of a lot, but bidders should note that lots may have other faults not expressly referred to in the catalogue or condition report. All dimensions are approximate. Illustrations are for identifcation purposes only and cannot be used as precise indications of size or to convey full information as to the actual condition of lots. (d) Information provided to prospective buyers in respect of any lot, including any pre-sale estimate, whether written or oral, and information in any catalogue, condition or other report, commentary or valuation, is not a representation of fact but rather a statement of opinion held by Phillips. Any pre-sale estimate may
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(e) When making a bid, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, a bidder accepts personal liability to pay the purchase price, as described more fully in Paragraph 6 (a) below, plus all other applicable charges unless it has been explicitly agreed in writing with Phillips before the commencement of the auction that the bidder is acting as agent on behalf of an identifed third party acceptable to Phillips and that we will only look to the principal for such payment.
(f) By participating in the auction, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, each prospective buyer represents and warrants that any bids placed by such person, or on such person’s behalf, are not the product of any collusive or other anti-competitive agreement and are otherwise consistent with federal and state antitrust law.
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(g) Arranging absentee, telephone and online bids is a free service provided by Phillips to prospective buyers. While we undertake to exercise reasonable care in undertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for failure to execute such bids except where such failure is caused by our willful misconduct. (h) Employees of Phillips and our afliated companies, including the Auctioneer, may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures. 5 Conduct of the Auction (a) Unless otherwise indicated by the symbol •, each lot is ofered subject to a reserve, which is the confdential minimum selling price agreed by Phillips with the seller. The reserve will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate at the time of the auction. (b) The Auctioneer has discretion at any time to refuse any bid, withdraw any lot, re-ofer a lot for sale (including afer the fall of the hammer) if he or she believes there may be error or dispute and take such other action as he or she deems reasonably appropriate. Phillips shall have no liability whatsoever for any such action taken by the Auctioneer. If any dispute arises afer the sale, our sale record is conclusive. The Auctioneer may accept bids made by a company afliated with Phillips provided that the bidder does not know the reserve placed on the lot. (c) The Auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding at levels and in increments he or she considers appropriate. In order to protect the reserve on any lot, the Auctioneer may place one or more bids on behalf of the seller up to the reserve without indicating he or she is doing so, either by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot is ofered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the Auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low pre-sale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the Auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the Auctioneer may deem such lot unsold. (d) The sale will be conducted in Swiss francs and payment is due in Swiss francs. For the beneft of international clients, pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogue may be shown in US dollars and/or euros and, if so, will refect approximate exchange rates. Accordingly, estimates in US dollars or euros should be treated only as a guide. If a currency converter is operated during the sale, it is done so as a courtesy to bidders, but Phillips accepts no responsibility for any errors in currency conversion calculation. (e) Subject to the Auctioneer’s reasonable discretion, the highest bidder accepted by the Auctioneer will be the buyer and the striking of the hammer marks the acceptance of the highest bid and the conclusion of a contract for sale between the seller and the buyer. Risk and responsibility for the lot passes to the buyer as set forth in Paragraph 7 below. (f) If a lot is not sold, the Auctioneer will announce that it has been ‘passed’, ‘withdrawn’, ‘returned to owner’ or ‘bought-in’. (g) Any post-auction sale of lots ofered at auction shall incorporate these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty as if sold in the auction. 6 Purchase Price and Payment (a) The buyer agrees to pay us, in addition to the hammer price of the lot, the buyer’s premium, plus any applicable value added tax (VAT) (the ‘Purchase Price’). The buyer’s premium is 25% of the hammer price up to and including CHF250,000, 20% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF250,000 up to and including CHF4,000,000 and 12.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF4,000,000. Phillips reserves the right to pay from our compensation an introductory commission to one or more third parties for assisting in the sale of property ofered and sold at auction. (b) VAT of 7,7% is payable on the hammer price plus buyer’s premium. This tax is refunded to any buyer domiciled outside Switzerland if, but only if, Phillips receives from such buyer an export declaration in respect of a purchased
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lot which has been stamped by Swiss customs. All prices, fees, charges and expenses set out in these Conditions of Sale are quoted exclusive of VAT. (c) Unless otherwise agreed, a buyer is required to pay for a purchased lot immediately following the auction regardless of any intention to obtain an export or import license or other permit for such lot. Payments must be made by the invoiced party in Swiss francs by wire transfer in accordance with the bank transfer details provided on the invoice for purchased lots. (d) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa, MasterCard, Poste Carte, Maestro and CUP (in person transactions only for CUP) to pay for invoices of CHF100,000 or less. A processing fee will apply. (e) Title in a purchased lot will not pass until Phillips has received the Purchase Price for that lot in cleared funds. Phillips is not obliged to release a lot to the buyer until title in the lot has passed and appropriate identifcation has been provided, and any earlier release does not afect the passing of title or the buyer’s unconditional obligation to pay the Purchase Price. 7 Collection of Property (a) Phillips will not release a lot to the buyer until we have received payment of its Purchase Price in full in cleared funds, the buyer has paid all outstanding amounts due to Phillips or any of our afliated companies, including any charges payable pursuant to Paragraph 8 (a) below, and the buyer has satisfed such other terms as we in our sole discretion shall require, including completing any anti-money laundering or anti-terrorism fnancing checks. As soon as a buyer has satisfed all of the foregoing conditions, he or she should contact us at +41 22 317 8181 to arrange for collection of purchased property. (b) The buyer must arrange for collection of a purchased lot within seven days of the date of the auction. Afer the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises. Purchased lots are at the buyer’s risk, including the responsibility for insurance, from (i) the date of collection or (ii) seven days afer the auction, whichever is the earlier. Until risk passes, Phillips will compensate the buyer for any loss or damage to a purchased lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Price paid, subject to our usual exclusions for loss or damage to property.
(c) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will, without charge, wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. We do not provide packing, handling, insurance or shipping services. We will coordinate with shipping agents instructed by the buyer, whether or not recommended by Phillips, in order to facilitate the packing, handling, insurance and shipping of property bought at Phillips. Any such instruction is entirely at the buyer’s risk and responsibility, and we will not be liable for acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers. (d) Phillips will require presentation of government-issued identifcation prior to release of a lot to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative. 8 Failure to Collect Purchases (a) If the buyer pays the Purchase Price but fails to collect a purchased lot within 30 days of the auction, the buyer will incur a late collection fee of CHF10 per day for each uncollected lot. We will not release purchased lots to the buyer until all such charges have been paid in full. (b) If a purchased lot is paid for but not collected within six months of the auction, the buyer authorizes Phillips, upon notice, to arrange a resale of the item by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonable discretion. The proceeds of such sale will be applied to pay for storage charges and any other outstanding costs and expenses owed by the buyer to Phillips or our afliated companies and the remainder will be forfeited unless collected by the buyer within two years of the original auction. 9 Remedies for Non-Payment (a) Without prejudice to any rights the seller may have, if the buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment of the Purchase Price for a lot in cleared funds within seven days of the auction, Phillips may in our sole discretion exercise one or more of the following remedies: (i) store the lot at Phillips‘s premises or elsewhere at the buyer’s sole risk and expense; (ii) cancel the sale of the lot, retaining any partial payment of the Purchase Price as liquidated damages; (iii) reject future bids from the buyer or render such bids subject to payment of a deposit; (iv) charge interest at 12% per annum from the date payment became
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due until the date the Purchase Price is received in cleared funds; (v) subject to notifcation of the buyer, exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in the possession of Phillips and instruct our afliated companies to exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in their possession and, in each case, no earlier than 30 days from the date of such notice arrange the sale of such property and apply the proceeds to the amount owed to Phillips or any of our afliated companies afer the deduction from sale proceeds of our standard vendor’s commission, all sale-related expenses and any applicable taxes thereon; (vi) resell the lot by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonable discretion, it being understood that in the event such resale is for less than the original hammer price and buyer’s premium for that lot, the buyer will remain liable for the shortfall together with all costs incurred in such resale; (vii) commence legal proceedings to recover the hammer price and buyer’s premium for that lot, together with interest and the costs of such proceedings; (viii) set of the outstanding amount remaining unpaid by the buyer against any amounts which we or any of our afliated companies may owe the buyer in any other transactions; (ix) release the name and address of the buyer to the seller to enable the seller to commence legal proceedings to recover the amounts due and legal costs; or (x) take such other action as we deem necessary or appropriate. (b) The buyer irrevocably authorizes Phillips to exercise a lien over the buyer’s property which is in our possession upon notifcation by any of our afliated companies that the buyer is in default of payment. Phillips will notify the buyer of any such lien. The buyer also irrevocably authorizes Phillips, upon notifcation by any of our afliated companies that the buyer is in default of payment, to pledge the buyer’s property in our possession by actual or constructive delivery to our afliated company as security for the payment of any outstanding amount due. Phillips will notify the buyer if the buyer’s property has been delivered to an afliated company by way of pledge.
(c) If the buyer is in default of payment, the buyer irrevocably authorizes Phillips to instruct any of our afliated companies in possession of the buyer’s property to deliver the property by way of pledge as the buyer’s agent to a third party instructed by Phillips to hold the property on our behalf as security for the payment of the Purchase Price and any other amount due and, no earlier than 30 days from the date of written notice to the buyer, to sell the property in such manner and for such consideration as can reasonably be obtained on a forced sale basis and to apply the proceeds to any amount owed to Phillips or any of our afliated companies afer the deduction from sale proceeds of our standard vendor’s commission, all sale-related expenses and any applicable taxes thereon. 10 Rescission by Phillips Phillips shall have the right, but not the obligation, to rescind a sale without notice to the buyer if we reasonably believe that there is a material breach of the seller’s representations and warranties or the Authorship Warranty or an adverse claim is made by a third party. Upon notice of Phillips election to rescind the sale, the buyer will promptly return the lot to Phillips, and we will then refund the Purchase Price paid to us. As described more fully in Paragraph 13 below, the refund shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips and the seller with respect to such rescinded sale. 11 Export, Import and Regulated Species Licences and Permits Before bidding for any property, prospective buyers are advised to make their own enquiries as to whether a licence is required to export a lot from Switzerland or to import it into another country. Prospective buyers are advised that some countries prohibit the import of property made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value. Accordingly, prior to bidding, prospective buyers considering export of purchased lots should familiarize themselves with relevant export and import regulations of the countries concerned. Please note that the US prohibits the importation of any item containing African elephant ivory. Asian elephant ivory may be imported in to the US only if accompanied by independent scientifc analysis of continent of origin and confrmation the object is more than 100 years old. With regard to any item containing endangered species other than elephant ivory, an importer into the US must provide documented evidence of the species identifcation and age of an object in order to demonstrate that the item qualifes as an antique. This will require the buyer to obtain an independent appraisal certify the species of endangered material on the object and certifying that the
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object is not less than 100 years of age. A prospective buyer planning to import an object containing endangered species into the US may not rely on Phillips cataloguing to establish the species of endangered material on the object or to establish the age of the object and must consult with a qualifed independent appraiser prior to placing a bid on the lot.
It is solely the buyer’s responsibility to comply with these laws and to obtain any necessary export, import and endangered species licences or permits. Failure to obtain a licence or permit or delay in so doing will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips has marked in the catalogue lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material, but we do not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species. 12 Data Protection (a) In connection with the supply of auction and related services, or as required by law, Phillips may ask clients to provide personal data. Phillips may take and retain a copy of government-issued identifcation such as a passport or driving license. We will use your personal data (i) to provide auction and related services; (ii) to enforce these Conditions of Sale; (iii) to carry out identity and credit checks; (iv) to implement and improve the management and operations of our business and (v) for other purposes set out in our Privacy Policy published on the Phillips website at www.phillips.com (the “Privacy Policy”) and available on request by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com. By agreeing to these Conditions of Sale, you consent tour use of your personal data, including sensitive personal data, in accordance with the Privacy Policy. The personal data we may collect and process is listed, and sensitive personal data is defned, in our Privacy Policy. Phillips may also, from time to time, send you promotional and marketing materials about us and our services. If you would prefer not to receive such information, please email us at dataprotection@phillips.com. Please also email us at this address to receive information about your personal data or to advise us if the personal data we hold about you is inaccurate or out of date. (b) In order to provide our services, we may disclose your personal data to third parties, including professional advisors, shippers and credit agencies. We will disclose, share with and transfer your personal data to Phillips’s afliated persons (natural or legal) for administration, sale and auction related purposes, including to persons outside the European Economic Area (EEA), where national laws may not provide an equivalent level of protection to personal data as that provided within the EEA. You expressly consent to such transfer of your personal data, including sensitive personal data, outside the EEA. We will not sell, rent or otherwise transfer any of your personal data to third parties except as otherwise expressly provided in this Paragraph 12. (c) Phillips’s premises may be subject to video surveillance and recording. Telephone calls (e.g., telephone bidding) may also be recorded. We may process that information in accordance with our Privacy Policy. 13 Limitation of Liability (a) Subject to sub-paragraph (e) below, the total liability of Phillips, our afliated companies and the seller to the buyer in connection with the sale of a lot shall be limited to the Purchase Price actually paid by the buyer for the lot. (b) Except as otherwise provided in this Paragraph 13, none of Phillips, any of our afliated companies or the seller (i) is liable for any errors or omissions, whether orally or in writing, in information provided to prospective buyers by Phillips or any of our afliated companies or (ii) accepts responsibility to any bidder in respect of acts or omissions, whether negligent or otherwise, by Phillips or any of our afliated companies in connection with the conduct of the auction or for any other matter relating to the sale of any lot. (c) All warranties other than the Authorship Warranty, express or implied, including any warranty of satisfactory quality and ftness for purpose, are specifcally excluded by Phillips, our afliated companies and the seller to the fullest extent permitted by law. (d) Subject to sub-paragraph (e) below, none of Phillips, any of our afliated companies or the seller shall be liable to the buyer for any loss or damage beyond the refund of the Purchase Price referred to in sub-paragraph (a) above, whether such loss or damage is characterised as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the Purchase Price to the fullest extent permitted by law.
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(e) No provision in these Conditions of Sale shall be deemed to exclude or limit the liability of Phillips or any of our afliated companies to the buyer in respect of any fraud or fraudulent misrepresentation made by any of us or in respect of death or personal injury caused by our negligent acts or omissions. 14 Copyright The copyright in all images, illustrations and written materials produced by or for Phillips relating to a lot, including the contents of this catalogue, is and shall remain at all times the property of Phillips and such images and materials may not be used by the buyer or any other party without our prior written consent. Phillips and the seller make no representations or warranties that the buyer of a lot will acquire any copyright or other reproduction rights in it. 15 General (a) These Conditions of Sale, as changed or supplemented as provided in Paragraph 1 above, and Authorship Warranty set out the entire agreement between the parties with respect to the transactions contemplated herein and supersede all prior and contemporaneous written, oral or implied understandings, representations and agreements. (b) Notices to Phillips shall be in writing and addressed to the department in charge of the sale, quoting the reference number specifed at the beginning of the sale catalogue. Notices to clients shall be addressed to the last address notifed by them in writing to Phillips. (c) These Conditions of Sale are not assignable by any buyer without our prior written consent but are binding on the buyer’s successors, assigns and representatives. (d) Should any provision of these Conditions of Sale be held void, invalid or unenforceable for any reason, the remaining provisions shall remain in full force and efect. No failure by any party to exercise, nor any delay in exercising, any right or remedy under these Conditions of Sale shall act as a waiver or release thereof in whole or in part. 16 Law and Jurisdiction (a) The rights and obligations of the parties with respect to these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty, the conduct of the auction and any matters related to any of the foregoing shall be governed by and interpreted in accordance with Swiss law. (b) For the beneft of Phillips, all bidders and sellers agree that the ordinary courts of the Canton of Geneva, Switzerland are to have exclusive jurisdiction to settle all disputes arising in connection with all aspects of all matters or transactions to which these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty relate or apply, subject to appeal to the Federal Tribunal. All parties agree that Phillips shall retain the right to bring proceedings in any court other than the ordinary courts of the Canton of Geneva. (c) All bidders and sellers irrevocably consent to service of process or any other documents in connection with proceedings in any court by facsimile transmission, personal service, delivery by mail or in any other manner permitted by Swiss law, the law of the place of service or the law of the jurisdiction where proceedings are instituted at the last address of the bidder or seller known to Phillips.
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Authorship Warranty Phillips warrants the authorship of property in this auction catalogue described in headings in BOLD or CAPITALIZED type for a period of fve years from date of sale by Phillips, subject to the exclusions and limitations set forth below and the Important Notices set out in this catalogue immediately following the Guide for Prospective Buyers. (a) Phillips gives this Authorship Warranty only to the original buyer of record (i.e., the registered successful bidder) of any lot. This Authorship Warranty does not extend to (i) subsequent owners of the property, including purchasers or recipients by way of gif from the original buyer, heirs, successors, benefciaries and assigns; (ii) property where the description in the catalogue states that there is a confict of opinion on the authorship of the property; (iii) property where our attribution of authorship was on the date of sale consistent with the generally accepted opinions of specialists, scholars or other experts; (iv) property whose description or dating is proved inaccurate by means of scientifc methods or tests not generally accepted for use at the time of the publication of the catalogue or which were at such time deemed unreasonably expensive or impractical to use or likely in our reasonable opinion to have caused damage or loss in value to the lot; or (v) property where there has been no material loss in value from the value of the lot had it been as described in the heading of the catalogue entry. (b) In any claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty, Phillips reserves the right, as a condition to rescinding any sale under this warranty, to require the buyer to provide to us at the buyer’s expense the written opinions of two recognized experts approved in advance by Phillips. We shall not be bound by any expert report produced by the buyer and reserve the right to consult our own experts at our expense. If Phillips agrees to rescind a sale under the Authorship Warranty, we shall refund to the buyer the reasonable costs charged by the experts commissioned by the buyer and approved in advance by us. (c) Subject to the exclusions set forth in subparagraph (a) above, the buyer may bring a claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty provided that (i) he or she has notifed Phillips in writing within three months of receiving any information which causes the buyer to question the authorship of the lot, specifying the auction in which the property was included, the lot number in the auction catalogue and the reasons why the authorship of the lot is being questioned and (ii) the buyer returns the lot to Phillips to the salesroom in which it was purchased in the same condition as at the time of its auction and is able to transfer good and marketable title in the lot free from any third party claim arising afer the date of the auction. Phillips has discretion to waive any of the foregoing requirements set forth in this subparagraph (c) or subparagraph (b) above. (d) The buyer understands and agrees that the exclusive remedy for any breach of the Authorship Warranty shall be rescission of the sale and refund of the original Purchase Price paid. This remedy shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips, any of our afliated companies and the seller and is in lieu of any other remedy available as a matter of law or equity. This means that none of Phillips, any of our afliated companies or the seller shall be liable for loss or damage beyond the remedy expressly provided in this Authorship Warranty, whether such loss or damage is characterized as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the original Purchase Price.
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London. Photographs. Now.
Helmut Newton Bergström over Paris, 1976 Unique Polaroid print. Estimate: £8,000-12,000
ULTIMATE Evening & Photographs Day Sales London, 18 May 2018 Phillips presents Polaroids from the Piero Bisazza Collection in our inaugural ULTIMATE Evening & Photographs Day Sales on 18 May 2018. ULTIMATE Evening & Photographs Day Sales Viewing 10-18 May 2018 Public Viewing 30 Berkeley Square, London W1J6EX or visit phillips.com Enquiries +44 207 318 4087 photographslondon@phillips.com
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Longines L e g e n d a r y Wa t c h e s
John Goldberger illustrates in this book what he considers to be the most interesting watches ever produced by the St. Imier company. 270 examples, traced back through time thanks to painstaking research, with the collaboration of Longines Brand Heritage Depar tment and of some of the most renowned collectors in the world, photog raphed to show the characteristics of the movement, case and dial of each example in the best possible way. A jour ney in the quintessence of the Longines spirit, 600 pages with over 1500 high definition colors illustrations and descriptions provide the collector and watch enthusiast with invaluable and rare infor mations on case reference numbers, dials, movements, related calibers and the year of production of each watch.
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Sale Information The Geneva Watch Auction: SEVEN Auction and Viewing Location La Réserve 301, Route de Lausanne 1293 Bellevue, Switzerland
Specialist & Head of Digital Strategy Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com
Senior International Specialist Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com
Specialist & Business Development Associate Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com
Business Development Manager Manon Bega +1 212 940 1274 mbega@phillips.com
International Business Director Myriam Christinaz +41 22 317 81 84 mchristinaz@phillips.com Regional Director, Business Development Director Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com Business Development Manager Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com Auction 12 May 2018, approximately 5.30pm immediately following the Daytona Ultimatum auction Lots 101–160 13 May 2018, 6pm Lots 161-285
Administrator Alexia Bénard +41 22 317 9667 abenard@phillips.com
Viewing Thursday 10 May, 10am – 7pm Friday 11 May, 10am – 6pm Saturday 12 May, 10am – 3pm Sunday 13 May, 10am – 5pm
Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com
Watch Department Geneva Senior Consultant Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com Senior Consultant Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com Executive Assistant to Senior Consultants Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com Head of Sale & Specialist Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189 aghotbi@phillips.com Specialist Tifany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com Associate Specialist, Cataloguer Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182 vliatard@phillips.com
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Shipping & Ofce Coordinator Alban Aubertin +41 22 317 96 60 aaubertin@phillips.com
Hong Kong Head of Watches, Asia Thomas Perazzi +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com Specialist, Business Development Director Jill Chen +852 2318 2000 jchen@phillips.com Specialist Zi Yong Ho +852 2318 2031 zho@phillips.com Senior Administrator Jacky Lam +852 2318 2031 jackylam@phillips.com London Specialist Kate Lacey +44 20 7 901 2907 klacey@phillips.com New York Head of Americas International Strategy Advisor Paul Boutros +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com
Cataloguer, Associate Specialist Isabella Proia +1 917 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com Administrator Daniella Rosa +1 212 940 1395 drosa@phillips.com Paris International Business Development Director Pansy Ku +33 1 53 71 77 87 pku@phillips.com Japan Senior Specialist Consultant Genki Sakamoto +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com Senior Consultant Kaz Fujimoto +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com Taiwan Senior Specialist Cindy Yen +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com Consultant Zachary Lu +852 2318 2034 zlu@phillips.com Catalogues catalogueswatches@phillips.com Catalogues 50 CHF/£35/$50 Client Accounts clientaccountswatches@phillips.com Shipping shippingwatches@phillips.com Photography Jess Hofman Sale Designation When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as CH080118 or The Geneva Watch Auction: SEVEN. Absentee and Telephone Bids Tel +41 22 317 8181 Fax +41 22 317 8180 bidsgeneva@phillips.com
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phillipswatches.com
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