STYLED. Timeless Watches & How to Wear Them New York, 5 December 2018
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Executives.
Edward Dolman
Cheyenne Westphal
Chief Executive Ofcer +1 212 940 1241 edolman@phillips.com
Chairman +44 20 7318 4044 cwestphal@phillips.com
Š Brigitte Lacombe
Senior Consultants.
New York.
Aurel Bacs
Livia Russo
Paul Boutros
Doug Escribano
Manon Bega
Isabella Proia
James Marks
Senior Consultant +41 22 317 81 88 abacs@phillips.com
Senior Consultant +41 22 317 81 88 lrusso@phillips.com
Head of Watches Americas, International Strategy Advisor +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com
Senior International Specialist +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com
Business Development Manager +1 212 940 1274 mbega@phillips.com
Associate Specialist, Cataloguer +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com
International Specialist +44 20 7 901 7916 jmarks@phillips.com
London.
Geneva.
Paris.
Alexandre Ghotbi
Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Arthur Touchot
Tifany To
Marcello de Marco
Nathalie Monbaron
Diana Ortega
Pansy Ku
Head of Sale, Specialist +41 22 317 81 89 aghotbi@phillips.com
Specialist +41 22 317 81 82 vliatard@phillips.com
Specialist, Head of Digital Strategy +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com
Specialist +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com
Specialist, Business Development Associate +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com
Regional Director, Business Development Director +41 22 317 81 83 nmonbaron@phillips.com
Business Development Manager +41 22 317 81 87 dortega@phillips.com
International Business Development Director +33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com
Hong Kong.
Thomas Perazzi
Tokyo.
Jill Chen
Head of Watches, Asia Specialist, +852 2318 2030 Business Development thomasperazzi@phillips.com Director +852 2318 2033 jchen@phillips.com
Zi Yong Ho
Stasia Mui
Kenneth Chan
Specialist +852 2318 2032 zho@phillips.com
Associate Specialist, Cataloguer +852 2318 2035 smui@phillips.com
Cataloguer +852 2318 2045 kchan@phillips.com
Genki Sakamoto
Taiwan.
Kaz Fujimoto
Senior Specialist Consultant Senior Consultant +81 3 6273 4818 +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com kfujimoto@phillips.com
Senior Specialist +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
Zach Lu Consultant +852 2318 2034 zlu@phillips.com
International Business Directors.
Deputy Chairmen.
Svetlana Marich
Jean-Paul Engelen
Robert Manley
Jonathan Crockett
Peter Sumner
Myriam Christinaz
Bart van Son
Worldwide Deputy Chairman +44 20 7318 4010 smarich@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Worldwide Co-Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1390 jpengelen@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Worldwide Co-Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1358 rmanley@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Asia and Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art, Asia +852 2318 2023 jcrockett@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Europe +44 20 7318 4063 psumner@phillips.com
Co-International Business Director +41 22 317 81 84 mchristinaz@phillips.com
Co-International Business Director +44 20 7901 7912 bvanson@phillips.com
Miety Heiden
Alexander Payne
Vanessa Hallett
Vivian Pfeifer
Marianne Hoet
Deputy Chairman, Head of Private Sales +44 20 7901 7943 mheiden@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Europe and Worldwide Head of Design +44 20 7318 4052 apayne@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Americas and Worldwide Head of Photographs +1 212 940 1243 vhallett@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Americas and Head of Business Development, Americas +1 212 940 1392 vpfeifer@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Europe, Senior Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art +852 2318 2023 mhoet@phillips.com
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Cindy Yen
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STYLED. Timeless Watches & How to Wear Them Auction 5 December 2018, 6pm Auction & Viewing Location 450 Park Avenue, New York Viewing Friday November 30, 10am-6pm Saturday December 1, 10am-6pm Sunday December 2, 12pm-6pm Monday December 3, 10am-6pm Tuesday December 4, 10am-6pm Wednesday December 5, 10am-2pm Sale Designation When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as NY080118 or STYLED. Timeless Watches Absentee and Telephone Bids Tel +1 212 940 1228 Fax +1 212 940 1749 bidsnewyork@phillips.com
Watch Department New York Head of Americas International Strategy Advisor Paul Boutros +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com Senior International Specialist Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com Business Development Manager Manon Bega +1 212 940 1274 mbega@phillips.com Cataloguer, Associate Specialist Isabella Proia +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com Administrator Daniella Rosa +1 212 940 1395 drosa@phillips.com Geneva Senior Consultant Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com Senior Consultant Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Executive Assistant to Senior Consultants Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com Head of Sale & Specialist Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189 aghotbi@phillips.com Specialist Tifany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com Specialist Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182 vliatard@phillips.com Specialist & Head of Digital Strategy Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com Specialist & Business Development Associate Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com Co-International Business Director Myriam Christinaz +41 22 317 81 84 mchristinaz@phillips.com Regional Director, Business Development Director Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com Business Development Manager Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com Administrator Alexia BĂŠnard +41 22 317 9667 abenard@phillips.com
Associate Specialist, Cataloguer Stasia Mui +852 2318 2035 smui@phillips.com Cataloguer Kenneth Chan +852 2318 2045 kchan@phillips.com Senior Administrator Jacky Lam +852 2318 2031 jackylam@phillips.com London International Specialist James Marks +44 20 7 901 2907 jmarks@phillips.com Co-International Business Director Bart van Son +44 20 7901 7912 bvanson@phillips.com Paris International Business Development Director Pansy Ku +33 1 53 71 77 87 pku@phillips.com Japan Senior Specialist Consultant Genki Sakamoto +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com Senior Consultant Kaz Fujimoto +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com
Shipping & Ofce Coordinator Alban Aubertin +41 22 317 96 60 aaubertin@phillips.com
Taiwan Senior Specialist Cindy Yen +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com
Consultant Zachary Lu +852 2318 2034 zlu@phillips.com
Hong Kong Head of Watches, Asia Thomas Perazzi +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com
Advisory Board Jean-Claude Biver Henry Chan Helmut Crott Ike Honigstock Stephen Charles Li Auro Montanari Jason Singer Kenneth Wong
Specialist, Business Development Director Jill Chen +852 2318 2000 jchen@phillips.com
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Specialist Zi Yong Ho +852 2318 2031 zho@phillips.com
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Aurel Bacs
Paul Boutros
STYLED! By Aurel Bacs and Paul Boutros
Quality. Passion. Scholarship. Accessibility. These are just a few of the many shared pillars of our businesses we realized we had in common with our partners, MR PORTER and The Rake, for this our second New York watch auction. Our mission is to celebrate and ofer products with enduring value, and it’s our pleasure to help spread the word of what each of us does, beyond our own, limited group of existing clients and followers. We each recognize that well-designed, carefully manufactured products are made to last, and while this may come at a cost, high quality items are what we prefer to choose when it comes to spending our hard-earned dollars. It’s a mindset where less is more, with an eye towards acquiring items with timeless style. Whether it’s our watch collection or our wardrobe, for us, we feel it’s ofen better to have, for example, one fnely tailored jacket that will last a generation than a handful of lower quality, poorly made alternatives. Handmade leather shoes from England, or a navy blue bespoke sport coat, these classics will never go out of fashion, similar to the timeless styling of a classic, mechanical man’s dress watch. Whatever the reason may be for wanting to look your best, it’s hardly ever done to impress others. Instead, it’s a motivation from within to express who we are and how we want to see ourselves. It was great fun working with the MR PORTER and The Rake teams deciding on our 12 categories - a symbolic nod to the 12 hours indicated on a mechanical watch. Curating this auction was every bit like a treasure hunt, thinking of the right watches to be worn for noteworthy moments of a man’s life - and the selection ofered here
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is the result of a true team efort with our International specialists. We sought to ofer a diverse mix of brands, eras, price points, and of course, aesthetic styles – each relevant for today’s tastes and sensibilities. We’re truly excited with the selection our clients have entrusted us with, especially the numerous fresh-to-market and timepieces from original owners or their descendants, each of which were well cared for and certain to delight even the most demanding connoisseur. A true team efort shared with our friends Toby Bateman and Wei Koh and their teams at MR PORTER and The Rake, we sincerely hope you will enjoy this “handbook” that ofers our collective thoughts on what to wear, and which watch to choose, for the notable moments of your life. It was a project built with passion and care, for those who share our passions. Speaking of our own team, we’d like to mention our newest New York-based associate specialist and cataloguer, Isabella Proia, an established member of the watch community with a contagious passion for watches. This catalog is the result of the hard work of many, with a special thanks to our New York Administrator, Daniella Rosa, whose tireless dedication behind the scenes alongside Doug Escribano, Manon Bega, and Isabella was key to putting together this sale. Twenty-four “looks” and 120 timeless and exceptional timepieces – all of which we hope might help keep you “STYLED” for years to come. We look forward to welcoming you personally at one of our preview exhibitions, or in New York for this auction – a “Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering” that we’re sure you’ll enjoy!
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Introduction By Toby Bateman, Managing Director, MR PORTER Over the past few years, while I have been busy as usual furthering the general style pursuits of MR PORTER around the world, I have been trying to forge a place in the online world of luxury watches. When one enters into the world of haute horlogerie, one cannot remain impervious to the infuence that vintage watches have on the broader universe of new watches, from the inspiration behind the designs through to being a temperature gauge for what’s coming next. And so it is that I have, by process of osmosis, become drawn into and fascinated by the world of vintage watches. The starting point on MR PORTER’s journey in the watch world stemmed from the frm belief that while we could talk to our customers and ofer them (to buy quickly and easily with a simple click of a button!) anything from John Lobb shoes to Charvet ties and Lock & Co hats, we were leaving the conversation unfnished in respect of what he should wear on his wrist. I can proudly say that over the past couple of years, MR PORTER has made progress of sorts and now we are indeed able to complete the conversation of watches and shoes (and are indeed being cited by some as trailblazers in the world of luxury watches online). So when in the summer this year I received an invitation to join Messrs Aurel Bacs and Wei Koh on a phone call, I was immediately intrigued…
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I’d had the coincidental pleasure of fnding myself in New York last year when Phillips brought the famous Paul Newman Daytona to market and, bagging myself a last-minute invite, was duly impressed by the calm control and elegance with which Mr Bacs conducted the evening; we subsequently asked him to appear in his own flm on MR PORTER talking about his personal collection of vintage watches – which has since become our second-most-popular flm ever (only beaten by footballing legend Mr Xabi Alonso’s own flm on his watch collection). As for Mr Koh, who is a legend in his own right – not only for his expletive-strewn Instagram Live posts, but also as a watch afcionado second to none and the arbiter of style behind the bible for classic elegance that is The Rake. The idea shared in that frst call this summer was: “Would it be interesting to present a vintage watch auction in the context of how to wear them, focusing perhaps on notable events that gentlemen around the world might fnd themselves?” Frankly, MR PORTER’s involvement was a nobrainer. This presents an opportunity to reinforce the conversation we have been trying to have with our customers and readers, that what you wear on your wrist is as important as what you wear on your feet. The result of this exciting and innovative project is presented here in this catalogue for “STYLED. Timeless Watches and How to Wear Them”.
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Introduction By Wei Koh, Founder, The Rake To paraphrase Marcel Proust, my favourite description of style is as the manifestation of an inner universe that each of us sees, but is not seen by others. And when it comes to a man’s personal take on elegance, I’ve always felt the relationship between his sartorial self-expression and his choice of timepieces is as sacrosanct as that between a religious pilgrim and the all mighty himself. And in the canon of elegance, the inseparable nature between man’s outer appearance and his timepiece of choice have made for some of the most iconic moments. Take for example Steve McQueen in The Thomas Crown Afair, dressed in his three-piece Douglas Hayward bespoke suits replete with double breasted waistcoats, as he insouciantly checks the time on his Patek Philippe pocket watch to clock the progress of the bank robbery he’s masterminded. Or Gianni Agnelli, glaring lion-like and saturnine into the camera, emanating the highest wattage sartorial badass-itude with his Patek Philippe world timer or his Omega Ploprof ensconced haughtily outside his sleeve. So when Aurel Bacs, former Rake of the Year and the man who has single handedly brought vintage watch collecting to the very forefront of contemporary culture, approached me to collaborate on his auction in New York this December 5th, I was immediately intrigued. Because it was Bacs’ desire to explore and illuminate the inseparable relationship between a man’s way of dressing and his choice in watch. Afer a quick discussion, we both expressed the shared belief that the right watch, a paradigm of elegance such as a vintage Vacheron Constantin Cioccolatone triple
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calendar or a Philippe Dufour Simplicity in the context of a black tie ensemble, is not just the perfect companion but the crowning glory of a gentleman’s Bella Figura. Similarly, a Rolex Paul Newman 6241 Daytona or an Omega Ultraman perfectly complements an ensemble destined for a vintage car revival. For both of us, of course, our dream was to bring Mr Porter into a threeway marriage around the theme of the 12 most elegant moments in a man’s life. Interestingly, Toby Bateman, who helms Mr Porter and is one of the individuals I admire most as a true innovator in the luxury universe, was also a Rake of the Year in 2017. During the course of interviewing him, my admiration grew for his leadership of what has been the single biggest game changing revolution in luxury men’s retail. To our great delight, Toby agreed to participate in our adventure uniting the sartorial and horological words. Both Mr Porter and The Rake have assembled 12 dashing ensembles that we believe perfectly express the sartorial needs of each of the 12 most elegant moments in a man’s life. Around this, the amazing Bacs and Russo team have curated a collection of 10 watches each. The clothing selected by both Mr Porter and The Rake will be present at the auction and in the events leading up to it and available to purchase. For me the greatest innovators are the men capable of uniting diferent universes to reach all new audiences and I feel that when it comes to this, there could be no greater collaborators than Aurel Bacs and Toby Bateman and I am deeply honoured to participate in this project with them both.
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Styled. Watches
1. F.P. Journe
2. Omega
3. Rolex
4. IWC
5. Patek Philippe
6. Rolex
7. Patek Philippe
8. Patek Philippe
9. Richard Mille
10. Rolex
11. Breitling
12. Rolex
13. Rolex
14. Patek Philippe
15. Heuer
16. Audemars Piguet
17. Rolex
18. Patek Philippe
19. Patek Philippe
20. Omega
21. Rolex
22. Patek Philippe
23. Breitling
24. Patek Philippe
25. Rolex
26. Omega
27. Patek Philippe
28. Rolex
29. Jaeger-LeCoultre
30. Rolex
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31. Heuer
32. Rolex
33. Rolex
34. Rolex
35. Audemars Piguet
36. Blancpain
37. Patek Philippe
38. Omega
39. Patek Philippe
40. Rolex
41. Rolex
42. F.P. Journe
43. Jaeger-LeCoultre
44. Patek Philippe
45. Bulova
46. Rolex
47. Patek Philippe
48. Omega
49. Rolex
50. Patek Philippe
51. Patek Philippe
52. Rolex
53. Rolex
54. Patek Philippe
55. Jaeger-LeCoultre
56. Rolex
57. Breguet
58. Patek Philippe
59. Patek Philippe
60. Cartier
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Styled. Watches
61. Rolex
62. Omega
63. IWC
64. Patek Philippe
65. Patek Philippe
66. Rolex
67. Rolex
68. Audemars Piguet
69. Patek Philippe
70. Tornek-Rayville
71. IWC
72. Vacheron Constantin
73. Patek Philippe
74. Rolex
75. Omega
76. Rolex
77. Rolex
78. Rolex
79. Patek Philippe
80. Patek Philippe
81. Rolex
82. Omega
83. Rolex
84. Rolex
85. Heuer
86. Patek Philippe
87. Vacheron Constantin
88. Patek Philippe
89. Rolex
90. Movado
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91. Patek Philippe
92. Rolex
93. Breguet
94. Rolex
95. Patek Philippe
96. Patek Philippe
97. Rolex
98. Omega
99. Patek Philippe
100. Cartier
101. Patek Philippe
102. Omega
103. Rolex
104. Patek Philippe
105. Rolex
106. Patek Philippe
107. Patek Philippe
108. Vacheron Constantin
109. Rolex
110. Audemars Piguet
111. Patek Philippe
112. Vacheron Constantin
113. Rolex
114. Patek Philippe
115. Patek Philippe
116. Patek Philippe
117. Patek Philippe
118. Hermès
119. Harry Winston
120. Rolex
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Styled. Mr Porter & The Rake
1. Wimbledon Lots 1-10
2. Goodwood Lots 11-20
3. Safari Lots 21-30
4. Positano Lots 31-40
5. Business Lots 41-50
6. Eveningwear Lots 51-60
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7. Hamptons Lots 61-70
8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering Lots 71-81
9. Après-Ski Lots 82-91
10. Wedding Lots 92-101
11. Caribbean Lots 102-111
12. Art Basel Lots 112-120
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1 . Wimbledon Gaining a style advantage
As recently as 2014, all Wimbledon Fortnight “debenture holders” - people with tickets that give them access to Centre and Number One Courts throughout the tournament - were advised that jeans and collarless shirts both fall outside the stated “smart but casual” dress code. Things have relaxed in the short time since, and items still prohibited in the dress code (torn jeans, running vests, dirty trainers, clothes emblazoned with promotional or political slogans) are likely to have been banished from a man’s life around the time his career began. That doesn’t mean, though, that dressing for Britain’s annual lawn-tennis event should be taken lightly: especially when the David Beckhams, Jude Laws and David Gandys of this world like to frequent the hallowed realms of what is, lest we forget, rather grandly called The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club. Beckham has been known to pair a navy blazer with camel chinos to great efect; Tom Hiddleston has managed to carry of a vivid navy three-piece, although that could have proved an uncomfortable afair in the event of blazing sunshine; Panama hats and linen lounge suits have, meanwhile, been de rigueur for some years. If you fnd yourself invited to the Royal Box, meanwhile, beware of falling foul of the stricter codes there, as Lewis Hamilton did in 2015: a tie, jacket and shoes here are imperative. We’re confdent the ensembles featured here will see you serve an ace in any scenario in the leafy and (occasionally) sunny realms of SW19.
Lots 1 to 10 The watches seen at Wimbledon should straddle the line between casual elegance and functionality – but above all, they should make a decisive statement. In line with these considerations, they run the gamut from Rolex sports watches to exclusive references by independents. The glint of a rare beam of sunlight on a platinum or gold case as one claps appreciatively – the wrist is truly on display at Wimbledon. A perpetual calendar minute repeater from IWC is sure to draw the eyes of seatmates, almost as surely as an ultra-light Richard Mille in titanium. While the tennis superstars of the world compete against each other for athletic dominance, celebrities and socialites rub elbows – and likely trade glances at wrists - with royalty on the sidelines.
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Maker xxxxxx Watch xxxxxx
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1. Wimbledon
Mr Porter’s look
Lot 10 Rolex. GMT-Master Reference 6542, 18K yellow gold, circa 1958
A slightly more informal approach here is signifed by the inclusion of a blue Chambray shirt – as much a perennial men’s wardrobe staple, these days, as his collection of t-shirts and work shirts, incidentally – from Rubinacci. Its inclusion with a six-button double-breasted navy blazer from Italian brand Boglioli makes for a witty casual-formal juxtaposition, with one of Drake’s trademark polkadot ties in brown and green and a green pin-dot wool-and-silk blend pocket square from Anderson & Sheppard making for a lovely, earthy colour spectrum. The detail-free ‘Alessandro Éclair’ whole-cut leather Oxfords from Berluti ensure no- nonsense, pragmatic gracefulness reign supreme with the footwear. Note, here, that the umbrella – hand-made by Milanese specialists Francesco Maglia – is open, and sunglasses are conspicuous in their absence, signifying that this is possibly a look for the Court One faneur expecting to spend the bulk of his day squinting through the raindrops at highlights reels on the big screen.
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Blazer by Boglioli Shirt by Rubinacci Tie by Drake’s Pocket square by Anderson & Sheppard Trousers by BOSS Shoes by Berluti Umbrella by Francesco Maglia
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The Rake’s look
Lot 5 Patek Philippe. Reference 5070P, platinum, circa 2009
A wry sleight of hand sees both looks here involve the wearer carrying an umbrella – not so much a precaution, at Wimbledon, as a necessity, unless the centre court’s retractable roof is at your disposal. Both parties have also seized on a navy jacket and lighter trousers as the reliably harmonious combo that it is. Sciamat provide the former here, Cifonelli the latter in white cotton. A tentative tweaking of the rules in this ensemble sees the azure vertical stripes of an shirt from Italian company Cordone 1956 (whose products are all hand-made in Como) juxtaposed with diagonal stripes on a tie from Turnbull & Asser. Meanwhile, the brown Belgian loafers by Baudoin & Lange, striking as they do a perfect balance between casual and formal, epitomise the whole look, especially if that brolly (from George Cleverly) proves pessimistic.
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Jacket by Sciamat Shirt by Cordone 1956 Tie by Turnbull & Asser Pocket square by Rubinacci Trousers by Cifonelli Loafers by Barbanera Umbrella by George Cleverley
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1. Wimbledon
1.
F.P. Journe – An attractive and well-preserved platinum wristwatch with black dial, pink gold movement, power reserve, certifcate of authenticity, and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
Circa 2008
Case No.
461-CS
Model Name
Chronomètre Souverain
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1304, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold F. P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $15,000-25,000 €13,000-21,700
•
Accessories With F. P. Journe Warranty dated January 24, 2008 and signed Montre Journe Genève S. A., wooden presentation box, product literature, polishing cloth, and outer packaging. LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
François-Paul Journe is a modern watchmaker who brings technical skill and innovation to wristwatches that are classically designed but have a contemporary aesthetic. F.P. Journe, his company, was established in 1999, and follows the motto “Invenit et Fecit” or [He] invented it and made it, a clear indication that the brand’s watches are fully designed and produced in house. With the collection “Souverain”, François Paul Journe presented his frst wristwatch with a central time display.
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Ofered in several variations, the principle objective of these timepieces, as the name of the collection implies, is chronometric precision. Even though its design is a tribute to traditional chronometers, it has been implemented in a subtly contemporary manner with its large hour and minute hands, and power reserve and seconds indications placed in an original manner at 3 o’clock and 7 to 8 o’clock respectively. The present, elite “Black Label” model with platinum case was only ofered to existing owners of F.P. Journe watches, and only available to purchase through an F.P. Journe Boutique. With its beautiful and minimalist black guilloché dial with white Arabic numerals, it is easily readable, and its 40mm diameter case is wellproportioned and balanced, comfortably ftting wrists of all sizes. The highly accurate caliber 1304 is a marvel to look at, and is made from solid 18 karat pink gold, featuring two mainspring barrels allowing for a 56-hour power reserve. Contemporary, elegant yet classic, this timepiece is the perfect match between the genius of its creator and the elegance of a timeless design.
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F.P. JOURNE Chronomètre Souverain “Black Label”
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1. Wimbledon
2.
Omega – A very fne and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel and bracelet
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1967
Reference No.
ST 105.003-65
Movement No.
24’951’900
Model Name
Speedmaster, “Ed White”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega link bracelet, end links stamped 6
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp, reference number 1035, stamped 2.67
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $10,000-15,000 €8,700-13,000 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production on July 4th, 1967 and delivered to Mexico. Literature For another example of a reference 105.003-65, please see Grégoire Rossier and Anthony Marquié Moonwatch Only: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Guide, pp. 272-273.
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The reference 105.003-65 marks a pivotal movement in Omega history, as it was the Speedmaster reference rigorously tested by NASA that would become the timepiece chosen to accompany astronauts to the moon. From that moment forward, the destiny of Omega was fundamentally and profoundly changed, and has since been very closely aligned with space exploration. It is nicknamed the “Ed White”, as the astronaut Ed White wore a reference 105.003-65 during his historic spacewalk during the Gemini 4 mission, becoming the frst American to do so. He stayed in space longer than his allotted time, and famously upon his return remarked “I’m coming back in… and it’s the saddest moment of my life.” Tragically, during a testing run for the Apollo 1 space mission, a fre broke out in the cabin and White and his crew were killed. The deaths of White and his fellow astronauts Virgil Grissom and Roger Chafee led to improvements in the shuttle design and safety features of future Apollo Command Modules, and those changes allowed Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin to fnally walk on the moon during the Apollo 11 mission on July 20th, 1969. The historical importance of this reference is matched by this example’s immaculate condition – a completely unpolished case free of much of the wear and tear visible on other models, a bezel with little signs of aging, and a perfect matte black dial with visible steps and all the indicators of the correct reference. Even the bracelet is in perfect condition and likely original to the watch. This “Ed White” Speedmaster will captivate the imaginations of those who grew up watching great men and women risk everything to enter that next frontier: space.
26/10/18 08:53
OMEGA Ref. 105.003 Speedmaster “Ed White”
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26/10/18 08:53
1. Wimbledon
3.
Rolex – A rare, well-preserved, and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with original guarantee, presentation box, and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1980
Reference No.
6263
Case No.
6’294’820
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona, “Big Red”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 78350, 19, end links stamped 571, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
78350 G
Estimate $40,000-60,000 €34,700-52,100 Accessories Original Rolex presentation box, guarantee dated 26th May, 1983 and stamped Saddik & Mohamed Attar Co., Jeddah, and product literature. Literature For another reference 6263 please see Ultimate Rolex Daytona, by Pucci Papaleo, pages 380 to 383.
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The reference 6263 is one of the most iconic and sought afer Daytona Cosmograph watches available. The large case and acrylic bezel give the chronograph a modern and appealing aesthetic that charms both men and women. Introduced in 1969 as the upgraded version of the earlier reference 6240, the new model housed the caliber 727 and featured screw down pushers for enhanced water proof capability. Along with the reference 6265, the stainless steel bezel version of the watch, the two sit proudly in the pantheon of Rolex chronograph history. In fact, Rolex’s latest Daytona, the currently produced modern reference 116500LN, was directly inspired by these vintage “Big Red” Daytona models. The present watch is in extraordinary original condition and has a sporty appeal with its multi-colored dial with black matte background, of-white subsidiary dials and red “Daytona” signature at 6 o’clock. The allure of the watch is enhanced with the correct black acrylic bezel, original pushers and Oyster bracelet, complete with original dated guarantee and presentation box. Certain models from a brand ofen standout more than others, and the Rolex Daytona today is certainly an important watch for collectors. This fne reference 6263 is an excellent example, and will please any savvy connoisseur.
02/11/18 16:50
ROLEX Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
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02/11/18 16:50
1. Wimbledon
4.
IWC – A fne and very rare limited edition oversized pink gold minute repeating perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, accompanied with boxes, paperwork, and warranty booklet
Manufacturer
IWC
Year
2008
Reference No.
377025
Case No.
3’414’721
Model Name
Grande Complication
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 79091, 71 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold IWC buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $30,000-50,000 Σ €26,100-43,400 Accessories Accompanied by original IWC ftted presentation box, product literature, and paperwork.
In 1985, during the midst of the quartz crisis, IWC set out to create what would be its frst “grande complication” wristwatch and one of the world’s most complicated timepieces: a wristwatch featuring a perpetual calendar, a chronograph, and a minute repeater. A team of watchmakers and engineers was assembled to create IWC’s grande complication, including two young heralds of complicated horology, Dominic Renaud and Giulio Papi (today, they are behind some of Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille’s most complicated movements). Afer fve years of painstaking development and 12 individual patents, this horological masterpiece was ofcially presented at the Basel fair in 1990. Reportedly, by the end of the fair, the company had enough order requests for the next seven years. Each of the 659 individual components were manufactured and assembled in house, and power 18 functions and complications: hour, minute and seconds displays, moon phase, month, day and date displays, perpetual calendar, indication of year, decade, century and millennium, chronograph seconds counter, chronograph minutes counter, chronograph hours counter, minute repeater, quarter repeater and hour repeater. Released in several diferent case materials and dial iterations over the following two decades, limited examples are produced each year. This pristine example from 2008 is accompanied with its original boxes and paperwork, and remains preserved in immaculate original condition.
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02/11/18 16:50
IWC Grande Complication
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02/11/18 16:50
1. Wimbledon
5.
Patek Philippe – A very fne, rare and large platinum chronograph wristwatch with certifcate of origin, paperwork, and ftted box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2009
Reference No.
5070P-001
Movement No.
3’715’795
Case No.
4’493’373
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, CH 27-70, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $80,000-120,000 Σ €69,500-104,000 Accessories With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated November 27th, 2009, product literature, factory box, hang tag, and leather wallet. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production in 2009 with blue dial and white gold Arabic numerals and subsequent sale on October 27th, 2009.
The Patek Philippe reference 5070 was the frst modern-era chronograph-only wristwatch released by the frm since the 1960s saw the end of production for the reference 1463. Introduced in 1998 at Basel, it was something of a shock to collectors that Patek would choose to reintroduce their chronograph-only line in such bold fashion – particularly the 42mm case dimension and the dramatically thick, stepped bezel. For the tenth anniversary of the release of the frst reference 5070, Patek Philippe released in 2008 a platinum-cased version with a sublime blue dial. The platinum 5070, represented by the present lot, was only in production from 2008 until 2010, and was manufactured in the fewest number of pieces of any 5070, adding to its desirability. Though the case architecture assures a commanding presence, in platinum these attributes are elevated. The dial color is of particular interest, as it is difcult to accurately pinpoint the exact shade of blue. Patek itself refers to the color as “bleu nuage” or “cloud blue”, but truly there are myriad names for the colors that come out at diferent angles or light sources. The oversized Arabic numerals, also reminiscent of aviator’s watches and one of the main design elements carried over from the historical reference 2512 on which the 5070 is based, are rendered in 18k white gold, adding a subtle lustre to the already superb dial. As with most modern platinum Patek Philippes watches, a 0.02 carat diamond is inset at the case at six o’clock. The appeal of the present reference 5070P is heightened due to its outstanding state of preservation and completeness, where all accessories, even its original hang tag, accompany this fne collectors’ timepiece.
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26/10/18 08:56
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5070P
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26/10/18 08:56
1. Wimbledon
6.
Rolex – A rare, very fne, and highly attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1978
Reference No.
6263
Movement No.
5’329
Case No.
5’534’494
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $70,000-140,000 €60,800-122,000
Literature An example of a yellow gold reference 6263 is illustrated in Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, pp. 368 and 369.
Something of an anomaly, a Rolex Daytona encased in precious metal does not seem logical given the watch’s intended sporting nature; coupled with a higher price tag than the steel variants, the gold models originally did not sell well. Research suggests 100 gold references 6263 were produced annually over its life span of twenty years, leading to approximately 2,000 examples believed to have been
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manufactured. Thus with time, the gold variant of the 6263 and its companion piece, the metal bezel reference 6265, have become highly collectible not only for their rarity, but their diverse visual appeal in contrast to the more abundant stainless steel Daytona. The present watch is fresh-to-the-market, consigned by the descendant of its original owner. With its robust 18K yellow gold case and screw-down pushers, it combines both utilitarian form with refned style. This motif continues on the dial, featuring the sporty chronograph layout typical of a Rolex Daytona, but accented by shimmering gold subdials, text, and outer seconds track. The gold hands and indices along with the applied gold coronet compliment the watch. Its appeal is further accentuated by the matching cream-colored luminous plots and hands all set on the eye-catching black dial. Its well-preserved original bezel and pushers, as well as its strong case proportions result in a highly attractive example for the connoisseur. Today, the gold Daytona is sought afer for its versatility and unmistakable aesthetic – whether for the recreational sportsman or accomplished businessman – make it suitable for any occasion. It is a design that has become an iconic standard in the 21st century, and this attractive, single owner example makes it a fne addition to any collection of timepieces.
26/10/18 08:57
ROLEX Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona
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26/10/18 08:57
1. Wimbledon
7. Patek Philippe – An extremely rare and important pink gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with tourbillon, retrograde date, moon phase, Breguet numerals, additional hard back, certifcate of origin, and presentation box
Purists have always considered Patek Philippe the pinnacle of master crafsmanship as their complicated timepieces are grail watches to own for important collections. Since the early 1940s when the reference 1526 was released, there has been a long and prestigious line of watches that elicit awe and inspiration, from the 3448 perpetual calendar wristwatch, to the iconic perpetual calendar chronographs, 1518 and 2499, as well as early minute repeating models like the reference 2419. These timepieces are mechanical works of art, which have a functional purpose, and they are a joy to look at the intricacies and quality of their movements. Released in 1993, the reference 5016 was the most modern complicated watch produced by the frm with a minute repeating, perpetual calendar, tourbillon movement, until Patek Philippe released the Sky Moon Tourbillon (5002) in 2001. Produced in yellow, white and rose gold, as well as platinum the watches featured silvered or black dials. It is believed that approximately 200 examples were manufactured until production ended in 2011.
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1. Wimbledon
7.
Patek Philippe – An extremely rare and important pink gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with tourbillon, retrograde date, moon phase, Breguet numerals, additional hard caseback, certifcate of origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2011
Reference No.
5016R
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. RTO 27 PS QR, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $300,000-700,000 Σ €261,000-608,000
The present example is fresh-to-the-market from the original owner and in near new condition, complete with original certifcate of origin, presentation box and additional hard case back. The dial features a rare retrograde date sector, which Patek Philippe featured on a few select references including 5050, 5059, 5159 and 5160. The minute repeating function has an exceptional tone and fullness. The reference 5016 is a wristwatch that embodies all the master qualities one expects from Patek Philippe, with a classic design and complicated movement it is a legendary wristwatch that many adore, but few can own.
Accessories With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated May 19, 2011, and signed by the Patek Philippe Salon, Geneva, Rate Accuracy Certifcate For Patek Philippe Tourbillon Watches dated January 24, 2011, wooden ftted presentation box, additional 18K pink gold hard caseback, 18K pink gold setting pin, leather portfolio, product literature with glossy photograph, box key, and outer packaging
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26/10/18 08:57
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5016R
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26/10/18 08:57
1. Wimbledon
8.
Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with Breguet numerals and tachymeter scale, retailed by Tifany & Co.
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1946
Reference No.
130
Movement No.
863’873, further stamped “HOX”
Case No.
646’766
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13”, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
14K yellow gold Tifany & Co. link bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
14K yellow gold Tifany & Co. folding clasp, with initials “AK” engraved, stamped “14K C+B Tifany & Co.”
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed. Dial additionally signed Tifany & Co., bracelet signed Tifany & Co.
Estimate $40,000-70,000 O €34,700-60,800
Literature Examples of reference 130 are described and illustrated in Patek Philippe Museum - Patek Philippe - Volume II, pp. 262-265.
In the 1920s, Patek Philippe began to notice a surge in the demand for chronograph wristwatches. At the beginning, some very limited series and unique pieces were created, mostly powered by a Victorin Piguet ébauche. By the 1930s, it was clear that a serially produced model was necessary to satisfy demand. Launched in 1934, the reference 130 is powered by a heavily modifed Valjoux movement, and is easily recognizable due to its slightly curved, elongated lugs and thin bezel. The model was extremely successful and remained in production until at least 1964. Even though it was manufactured for close to 30 years, output was quite
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limited, resulting in a total of about 1500 pieces produced. It was ofered in yellow gold, pink gold, and stainless steel (though other metals or combinations of metals have been used for special request pieces). The current example’s 18 karat yellow gold case was manufactured by Emile Vichet, signifed by the number 9 inside a key stamped to the inner case back. Fresh-to-the-market, the present reference 130 is further enhanced by its dial featuring beautiful Breguet numerals and the prestigious “Tifany & Co.” retailer signature on the dial. There are 72 total examples known to feature Breguet numerals, and only 10 examples of a reference 130 with Tifany & Co. signature have graced the auction market. As would make sense for a watch sold to an American retailer, “HOX” is stamped on the movement: the American import code for Patek Philippe watches. The watch still bears a crisply engraved name to its case back, with corresponding initials on the clasp of the bracelet – and research indicates a remarkable original owner. Usually, these names cannot be tied back defnitively to a specifc owner. In this case however, the original owner was likely one Arthur Knorr, born in Indiana at the turn of the century. Though he started as a commercial artist designing posters and advertisements for local theaters, he quickly gained recognition for his artistry and skill. His work ethic and passion for the performing arts led to his being appointed producer, designer, and director for an array of theatrical performances including Broadway shows, the White House Correspondents Dinner, and the Miss America and Miss Universe pageants. A highly desirable reference, stunning dial, prestigious Tifany & Co. retailer signature, and fascinating original owner makes this a standout example of a reference 130 that is certain to delight any collector of vintage timepieces.
02/11/18 16:54
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 130
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02/11/18 16:54
1. Wimbledon
9.
Richard Mille – A rare and very fne titanium tourbillon wristwatch with function selector, power reserve and torque indication with presentation boxes
Manufacturer
Richard Mille
Year
Circa 2007
Reference No.
RM002-V2
Movement No.
024
Case No.
286
Material
Titanium
Calibre
Manual, cal. 002-V2, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium Richard Mille buckle
Dimensions
45mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $110,000-150,000 €95,500-130,000 Accessories With Richard Mille Certifcate of Authenticity dated October 31st, 2018, London, Richard Mille black leather presentation box, service invoice dated October 17, 2010 and outer packaging.
Richard Mille announced his frst watch, the RM001 Tourbillon, in 2000 and has ever since remained true to three key concepts driving the passion, which helped redefne modern horology: the best technical innovations, the best artistry and architecture with the best heritage and fne watchmaking crafsmanship. Mille sought to create wristwatches that were 21st century masterpieces, employing cutting edge materials and techniques, but remaining steeped in traditional Swiss watchmaking. Two industries infuencing his designs were motorsports and the aerospace industry. Developed together with Audemars Piguet’s complication specialist, Renaud et Papi, the RM001 was a futuristic, high-tech wristwatch with
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a decidedly Formula One racecar vibe. The watch was unlike any other - sleek and aerodynamic and made with a titanium case and baseplate, it was shockingly lightweight, inverting the notion that a luxury watch must be heavy. Within a year, Mille upgraded the model to the RM002. Released in 2002, the RM002 manually-wound tourbillon is a feat of engineering and technology and makes a closer connection to automotive racing with the inclusion of a gear like function selector. Prominently displayed between the 4 and 5 positions, the function selector is changed through a button in the crown, similar to the gearbox, the watch can be set to H (Hands) for time selection, N (Neutral) normal running time and W (Winding) for winding. The torque indicator runs between 0 and 65 with red indicator, a reading below 53dNmm indicates the mainspring is too slack and over 65dNmm indicting excessive tension on the mainspring. The RM002-V2 was the second evolution of the model. It incorporated a movement baseplate made of a composite carbon nanofber with grey PVD coating, enabling greater structural rigidity for improved shock resistance. Visible through the sapphire crystal dial, the carbon nanofber baseplate is not only functional, but also visually appealing. The present watch is in excellent overall condition with a micro blasted titanium case, and with its signature tonneau-shaped case, is unmistakably recognizable as a Richard Mille watch. Today, the brand has created many exceptional watches that all exude the qualities that Richard Mille set forth when he frst launched the collection at the turn of the 21st century. He has brought many variations and complications to watches that fuel collector excitement and interest, but early examples like this RM002-V2 can be considered modern classics that superbly defne the bridge between the past and the present.
02/11/18 16:53
RICHARD MILLE RM002-V2
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02/11/18 16:53
1. Wimbledon
10. Rolex – A very rare and exceptionally well-preserved yellow gold dual time wristwatch with bronze color dial, Bakelite bezel, and bracelet
Rolex’s GMT-Master is one of the brand’s most iconic and well-known tool watches, so much so that nearly 65 years since its launch in 1954, it still remains in production, with even contemporary models being extremely sought afer. Developed in partnership with Pan American airlines, the watch incorporated a simple and ingenious way for long distance pilots to keep track of multiple time zones simultaneously. The model featured a fourth central hand used in conjunction with a rotating Bakelite bezel, with luminous 24-hour indication, in order for pilots to keep track of both home time and local time. The reference 6542 was the brand’s frst dual time zone wristwatch and has become one of the most desirable timepieces available on the market today. While the luminous Bakelite bezel was an innovative design feature, it proved to be unpractical due to the fragile nature of the Bakelite and therefore, with the next generation of the GMT-Master, the reference 1675 introduced in 1960, the bezel was replaced with a metal version, and crown guards were introduced to reduce the accidental risk of damaging the winding crown. The present example is one of the fnest and bestpreserved examples of a gold reference 6542 to be ofered at auction in recent years. The majority of the reference 6542 were manufactured in stainless steel, with very few examples produced in yellow gold. This metal rarity, along with its exceptional condition, makes this timepiece a must have for connoisseurs of mid-20th century tool watches. It is made even more impressive as it is totally fresh-to-market, consigned by the grandson of the original owner - Louis Arledge Peacock (1895-1972). Peacock was an accomplished marine civil engineer who spent his lifetime working on marine construction projects around the globe. A University of Georgia engineering student, Louis withdrew from school to fght in World War I, where he enlisted in the First Florida Infantry and saw action in France with the 31st Division. Upon his release on July 22, 1919, he returned to the United States and began an extraordinary career in marine construction. First with the St. Paul frm Seims-Helmers Inc, he was construction supervisor for the famed cantilevered Huey P. Long bridge in Jeferson Parish, Louisiana, opening in December 1935. He also worked on other
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26/10/18 08:58
1. Wimbledon
10.
Rolex – A very rare and exceptionally well-preserved yellow gold dual time wristwatch with bronze color dial, Bakelite bezel, and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1958
Reference No.
6542
Movement No.
N754’726
Case No.
367’392
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1065, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 65, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 2.58, inscribed “Louis A. Peacock”
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $100,000-200,000 €86,900-174,000 Accessories Accompanied with photograph of the original owner wearing the watch at The Roosevelt, New Orleans, along with accompanying biographical documents.
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well-known projects like the Rickenbacker Causeway in Miami, and the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway Bridge, which since 1969 has been noted as the longest bridge over water in the world. Throughout his lifetime Louis worked on numerous large-scale construction projects including work on new oil rig types in the oil felds of Lake Maracaibo Venezuela, and projects in the Dominican Republic. In the 1940s, he was employed by Morrison Knudsen General Contractors of Boise Idaho, and by 1994 he was named Vice President and General Manager of an M-K subsidiary Portland Tug & Barge Company and Marine Contractors. It is not known when Mr. Armenaki purchased the present watch, however it dates to 1958, and a 1963 image of Louis, his wife Helen and daughter Mattie Lou, shows him wearing the watch for a formal awards-ceremony event at the Roosevelt Hotel in New Orleans. In exceptionally well-preserved condition, this reference 6542 is a collectors dream – all original and unpolished, with crisp 18K yellow gold case, original riveted Oyster bracelet, and Bakelite bezel. The watch has a stunning light bronze color dial, which is fawless and original. The taut bracelet features the “Big Rolex” logo on its folding blades, adding to the collectability of the timepiece. The GMT-Master is a watch that over the years has become an icon of the horological world, ofering practicality, durability, wearability and a classic aesthetic perfectly matched for both business and casual wear. This watch ofers a unique perspective into the world of Rolex tool watches, as well as the life and times of an accomplished American engineer and war veteran who clearly treasured his fne timepiece.
26/10/18 08:59
ROLEX Ref. 6542 GMT-Master
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26/10/18 08:58
2. Goodwood Revving up your track-side attire
With F1 becoming an increasingly sanitised and predictable techfest, interest in historic racing has been rocketing of late. Part of this comes down to the cars’ performance limitations making the whole thing more accessible, more ‘real’, but arguably, the driving force of this automotive nostalgia comes down to classic cars simply having more soul. The same might be said for classically elegant menswear, which makes picking out your attire for the mother of all historic car events - the Goodwood Revival – one of life’s great pleasures. This three-day event, each September, sees the celebrated West Sussex circuit and its surrounds become a microcosm of Britain in the period that was Goodwood’s heyday as a motorsport destination: 1948-1966. Strictly speaking, should you wish to blend in with the 300 actors and actresses in full vintage regalia mingling with the masses, you’ll opt for period clothing from that timeline – a little tricky, given that post-war rationing was a major infuence on menswear at the start of it, counter-revolutionary craziness by the end of it (don’t be surprised to fnd fghter pilots and mods mingling with a host of cravated, tweed- clad country sports types). The choice, when dressing for Goodwood Revival – an occasion on which you’ll encounter fannels and tweeds, pleats and turtlenecks, brogues, braces and bell-bottoms - is pretty much limitless. Sufce to say, sprezzatura with a nod to decades past, and perhaps a subtle automotive slant (up to a point - driving goggles would be over-egging the pudding) will prove ft for purpose…
Lots 11 to 20 Part vintage car rally, part costume festival – the Goodwood Festival of Speed is a celebration of the petrolhead, past and present. Expect to see a clash of post-war conservatism with the curves and fair of mid-century design. Chronographs with tachymeter scales are ubiquitous here, used to calculate speed over distance. Whether from the great triumvirate of watchmaking – Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin – or the utilitarian Rolex and Heuer, these watches evoke the heady smell of motor oil and burnt rubber. A Heuer Autavia celebrated for its association with Formula One driver Jochen Rindt is a nobrainer selection; less obvious but no less appropriate is a pink gold Patek Philippe chronograph with tastefully extravagant lugs and hard enamel tachymeter scale. Stylish spectators coolly time laps with oversized, motorsport-themed watches such as a Royal Oak Ofshore “Juan Pablo Montoya”, while the best drivers in the world risk everything for a taste of victory.
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29/10/18 18:17
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2. Goodwood
Mr Porter’s look
Lot 20 Omega. Seamaster 300 reference ST 165.024 delivered to the British Royal Army, stainless steel, circa 1967
Tod’s President and CEO Diego Della Valle refers to his brand’s staple product, the loafer - or simple driving moccasin - as ‘Gloves For The Feet’. And these are not the only item here ofering supreme comfort, with Brunello Cucinelli's cashmere-lined gloves (also technically designed for driving) ofering similar tactility, as does the Italian-made, wool roll-neck sweater in merlot from Dunhill (a British brand whose motoring credentials go back to the late 19th Century, when it produced car horns and lamps, leather overcoats, goggles and picnic sets for London’s then tiny community of motorists). A peaked cap – this one was made in Parma in Italy, despite the self-consciously British brand name ‘Anderson’s’ - ofers another jaunty automotive touch here. Also paying heed to the turning of the seasonal tides around Revival time is a study, fur-lined bomberstyle jacket from Italian luxury goods brand Bottega Veneta. Wool-fannel cargo trousers by Brunello Cucinelli complete a guise that’ll help you blend in with the hardcore petrol-heads in the paddocks.
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Jacket by Brunello Cucinelli Sweater by Dunhill Trousers by Brunello Cucinelli Shoes by Tod’s
26/10/18 09:04
The Rake’s look
Lot 15 Heuer. Reference 2446H “Jochen Rindt”, stainless steel, circa 1966
The waterproof weave raincoat here, made by a brand named afer Cornish missionary and explorer Sir William Grenfell, is aimed at motorists on two-wheeled steeds: hence its name, the Despatch Rider’s Coat. With its fur-lined collar, though, it serves just as well battling the elements in a roofess Lotus-Climax 18 or Aston Martin Project 212, or indeed watching those beasts from yesteryear tearing up the Tarmac from the stands. A great match with this are the simple, pleated khaki trousers from Anderson & Sheppard, who can also take credit for the cosy merino roll-neck seen here (lest we forget, Autumn is creeping up on us by the time of this event). Meanwhile, windowpane check tweed is a loyal regular at Revival, and this jacket from Edinburgh outftters Walker Slater will pay dividends on the layering front, as well as looking markedly in situ: driving gloves from Omega SRL, glasses from Commando boots from Gaziano & Girling complete the look.
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Coat by Grenfell Roll neck by Anderson & Sheppard Jacket by Walker Slater Trousers by Anderson & Sheppard Boots by Gaziano & Girling
26/10/18 09:04
2. Goodwood
11.
Breitling – A well-preserved and very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial and oversized 15-minute register
Manufacturer
Breitling
Year
1967
Reference No.
765 CP
Case No.
1’140’820
Model Name
Co-Pilot, “Raquel Welch”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Venus 178, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement signed.
Estimate $8,000-12,000 €6,900-10,400 Accessories Accompanied by spare, period-correct bezel.
Established in 1884, Breitling is best known for their aviationrelated timepieces such as the iconic Navitimer. But the manufacturer was an early pioneer in the development of wristwatch chronographs, with their innovative tool watches supplying armed forces worldwide, as well as timepieces for racing, diving, and leisure activities. The Breitling 765 Co-Pilot was created, as its name suggests, for airplane pilots, who
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benefted from an oversized 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock and twelve hour rotating bezel. The Co-Pilot replaced an earlier reference 765 “Digital” that featured a digital minutes counter at 3 o’clock and incorporated an oversized minute counter ftted with large luminous indicators at each three minute increment. Legibility in low light conditions and accuracy were paramount in the creation of this Co-Pilot, and it was eventually even adopted for military use. As always, a watch benefts from celebrity association, and the 765 Co-Pilot boasts not just one, but two strong celebrity endorsements: Jean-Claude Killy, the famous Swiss alpine ski racer, and Raquel Welch, the prominent mid-century actress and sex symbol who wore a 765 Co-Pilot in the James Bond spoof movie, Fathom (1967). Though it was another manufacture that endorsed Killy and led to his name being attached to a specifc reference, it is the Breitling 765 Co-Pilot that was photographed on Killy’s wrist afer he won all three gold medals in alpine skiing at the 1968 Winter Olympics in Grenoble, France. The present 765 Co-Pilot shares the same movement as the more well-known Navitimer, the Venus 178, and can be considered one of the best preserved Co-Pilots to come to market in recent memory. The stainless steel case is completely unpolished, and the bezel is in extremely crisp and unblemished condition.
26/10/18 09:05
BREITLING Ref. 765 Co-Pilot “Raquel Welch”
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26/10/18 09:05
2. Goodwood
12.
Rolex – A highly attractive and rare stainless steel wristwatch with “mark 1” dial, faded bezel, and bracelet, accompanied with presentation box, guarantee, booklets, and hang tag
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1969
Reference No.
1680
Movement No.
D’361’740
Case No.
2’154’167, inner caseback stamped II.69
Model Name
Submariner Date, “Red Sub”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet reference 9315, end links stamped 280, max length 230mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
4-70
Estimate $15,000-25,000 €13,000-21,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex inner and outer boxes, punched guarantee, product literature, small leather wallet, hang tag, and silver anchor.
The Rolex Submariner has become such an icon that not only can it be considered the benchmark for all future diving watches, but it has also spawned its own scholarly following devoted to every nuance and variation from its frst appearance in the Rolex catalogue in 1954 until the present day. The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 was launched in
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1967 and was the frst Submariner model ftted with a date function (likely generating a fery debate about date windows that continues to burn brightly in the watch community). Of the seven diferent iterations of “Red Submariner” dials, established by the collecting community, the present example is ftted with a rare and exceptional Mark I “meters frst” dial, with closed “6”, overhanging “f” in the depth rating, and the red lettering of Submariner printed over white. Both the luminous material on the dial and the dial itself have aged beautifully, with the luminous material acquiring a delightful warm patina, and the dial remaining untouched and uniform. The case is presented in outstanding, original condition, having never seen a polishing and with all of its original factory fnishing, curves, bevels, and contours present. The “Red Sub” is the ideal contender for a one watch collection – subtle enough not to draw attention, but with a fash of fair with the red “Submariner” print to add interest. It is ideal for the boardroom, a weekend in the country, or an evening out. Not only is this an attractive and stunningly preserved example of a coveted reference, but it comes complete with all of its original accessories including punched guarantee papers – a rare opportunity for the elite collector.
02/11/18 16:49
ROLEX Ref. 1680 “Red” Submariner “Mark 1” Dial
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02/11/18 16:50
2. Goodwood
13. Rolex – A very fne and historically important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial, awarded to LeeRoy Yarbrough, winner of the Daytona 500 in 1969 Originally introduced as the Cosmograph without the “Daytona” nickname and signature, the now legendary Rolex chronograph faced an identity crisis in its frst few years on the market. In 1964, Rolex advertised its latest chronograph as the “Le Mans” in reference to the prestigious French endurance race. Yet in 1965, in what was most likely a strategic move to capture the budding American motorsport market, Rolex changed the model’s name once more and advertised it as the “Daytona,” this time delineating the origins of the name to the Daytona International Speedway where races such as the 24 Hours of Daytona (now known as the Rolex 24 at Daytona) and the Daytona 500 have taken place since 1959. The present lot underscores the legendary Daytona model’s racing pedigree as it is the earliest known Rolex Daytona ofered as a prize to the winner of any Daytona race. Afer being awarded to Lonnie “LeeRoy” Yarbrough by Rolex in the summer afer his Daytona 500 win, he wore it during competition as seen in multiple photographs; most notably, it is visible on his wrist during his American 500 win in 1969. During his relatively brief racing career, Yarbrough set numerous records on the Grand National stock car circuit, earning him laudatory titles such as “American Driver of the Year” and “Ford’s Man of the Year.” His fascination with cars began while working at a garage in Jacksonville and quickly progressed to racing the backroads of west Jacksonville (much to the chagrin of local police). Along the way, he gained a following of local kids and befriended the likes of fellow west Jacksonville native Ronnie Van Zant, a founding member of Lynyrd Skynyrd. At 16, afer dropping out of high school, LeeRoy claimed his frst victory at the Jacksonville Speedway in his own 1933 Ford street roadster and by 1960 had started his NASCAR career in the Sportsman Division– a low ranking circuit featuring full-sized NASCAR tracks. Afer winning a number of short-track races in the mid1960s, Yarbrough’s career only saw moderate success in the latter half of the decade. In 1969, however, Yarbrough climbed to the top of NASCAR in what would become one of the greatest racing seasons in NASCAR history. Behind the wheel of his Junior Johnson Ford Torino Talladega, he strung together victories at the coveted Daytona 500, the World 600, and the Southern 500. These wins, in one season, at NASCAR’s “richest” race, “longest” race, and
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26/10/18 09:06
Copyright Bryant McMurray
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26/10/18 09:06
2. Goodwood
13.
Rolex – A very fne and historically important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial, awarded to LeeRoy Yarbrough, winner of the Daytona 500 in 1969
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1967
Reference No.
6239
Case No.
1’781’925
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona, “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped C.10
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $150,000-300,000 €130,000-261,000 Accessories Accompanied with printed email statement from Rolex USA verifying the sale and delivery of this watch to the Daytona International Speedway in 1969.
“oldest” race, respectively, gave Mr. Yarbrough the elusive “Triple Crown” title – and the added bonus of being the frst person to accomplish such a feat. Only two other drivers have ever completed the Triple Crown: Bill Elliot and Jef Gordon. His historic 1969 season ended with a total of seven Grand National wins, earning him a then NASCAR season winnings record of $188,609. Following this string of impressive victories, Yarbrough’s racing career would come to an end in the early 1970s afer a series of unfortunate crashes. His watch, presented here for the frst time publicly, ensures that his memory will not be forgotten. Having fallen on hard times afer his racing career, Yarbrough pawned the watch at a local Jacksonville
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pawnbroker in the late 1970s or early 1980s. The pawnbroker immediately recognized Yarbrough, and knew exactly who would be interested in purchasing a watch steeped in racing lore. The father of the consignor of the present lot was a self-described “car man”, having spent most of his life racing and selling cars. A “greaser” in the 1950s, the consignor’s father would regularly drag race on the beach at Daytona to earn extra money and had followed Yarbrough’s career from its beginning. Afer receiving the call from the pawnbroker, the consignor’s father immediately went over to the location on the west side of Jacksonville and purchased the watch. It has remained in the same family ever since. According to the consignor, his father added a Rolex Jubliee bracelet in the mid 1970s and only wore it a handful of times, having spent most of its life in a drawer. In researching this watch, numerous photos of Yarbrough wearing this exact watch were found, including the photo shown here. Combined with an emailed statement from Rolex USA written in 2016 that confrms its sale and delivery to the Daytona International Speedway in 1969, its provenance is extraordinary. Apart from the present example’s historically important provenance, it is inherently collectible, featuring a gorgeous “Paul Newman” exotic dial with the highly sought afer tricolor confguration. The exceptionally well-preserved dial is vibrant, and exhibits the delightful “sing-a-song”-style “T Swiss T” designation at 6 o’clock that is so sought afer today. The importance of the present lot, therefore, cannot be overstated. It’s a watch that brings together the most famous watch brand, with its most sought afer model, ftted with the most desirable dial, and given to arguably the best NASCAR driver of the 1960s for winning the 1969 Daytona 500. This extraordinary Paul Newman Daytona originally lived an exciting life as part of its daring owner’s racing success, before it would be stored away for decades. An ultimate trophy watch for collectors, Phillips is thrilled to ofer it at auction for the frst time.
26/10/18 09:07
ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
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26/10/18 09:07
2. Goodwood
14. Patek Philippe – An extremely rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with two-tone silvered dial with outer tachymeter scale
Within the vintage collecting community, there are trophy timepieces considered to be the pinnacle of any collection, and the Patek Philippe reference 1463 chronograph is worthy of this designation. In stainless steel, it would be the crown jewel. Released in 1941 and produced for the next 25 years, the model was the frst and only waterproof chronograph wristwatch produced by Patek Philippe (aside from the ultra rare references 1536 and 3651) before the 1990s. Despite the long production run in all metals, it is believed that only 750 total examples were produced, with the vast majority in yellow gold, and less than 10% in stainless steel. One can say that the reference 1463 was Patek Philippe’s frst “sports utility” wristwatch – a chronograph combining luxury with capabilities for the outdoors. It comes as little surprise that it became the preferred watch for the rising elite, including Briggs Cunningham - an American entrepreneur and sportsman, who raced automobiles and yachts. Featured on the cover of Time Magazine in April 1954 and a member of the Motorsports Hall of Fame and America’s Cup Hall of Fame, he owned a stainless steel reference 1463 with black dial.
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26/10/18 09:07
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26/10/18 09:07
2. Goodwood
14.
Patek Philippe – An extremely rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with two-tone silvered dial with outer tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1946
Reference No.
1463
Movement No.
863’843
Case No.
640’551
Model Name
“Tasti Tondi”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $300,000-500,000 O €261,000-434,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1946 and its subsequent sale on 4 February 1947. Literature For another example of a reference 1463 in stainless steel with applied elongated baton indexes and Arabic numerals, please see John Goldberger’s Patek Philippe Steel Watches, pp. 280-281.
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The watch was especially robust and was especially suitable for industrial use in scientifc and medical environments due to a second inner case which shielded the movement against magnetism. Each featured a tensided screw back case and playful rounded chronographpushers, known as “Tasti Tondi” in Italian. Notably, the cases of the reference 1463 in steel were manufactured by famed case maker Taubert & Fils, as seen in the F.B. (for François Borgel, Taubert’s predecessor company name) stamp on the inside caseback. The present example features a sublime, two-tone silvered dial with outer polished chapter ring and tachymeter, and inner silvered matte dial with elongated white gold baton indexes and Arabic numerals. Of the 67 known examples of the reference 1463 in steel, only 8 are known to have this dial variation, making it extremely rare and highly sought afer. The joy of collecting this particular reference are the various dial iterations implemented throughout the twenty year production period and the rarer dial, the more desirable the watch. Preserved in exceptional condition for the better part of a century, this stunning reference 1463 is sure to delight the distinguished collector.
26/10/18 09:07
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1463 “Two-Tone Tasti Tondi”
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26/10/18 09:07
2. Goodwood
15.
Heuer – A very fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with contrasting subdials
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1966
Case No.
96’149
Model Name
Autavia, “Jochen Rindt”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 72, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $12,000-18,000 €10,400-15,600
Literature For a similar example see Heuer Autavia Chronographs 1962-85, Richard Crosthwaite & Paul Gavin, pg. 66-67.
The present lot stands out with its exceptional condition, and features a stunning matte black dial with contrasting crisp white subsidiary registers, and sports the narrower, yet robust, rotating bezel calibrated for twelve hours, perfect for either counting elapsed time or tracking a second time zone. The attractive dial is noteworthy for being manufactured by Singer, who famously created the dials for the coveted Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona. Furthermore, the dial features a rare “Fab Suisse” designation at 6 o’clock, an interesting and unusual detail found only on watches originally sold in France. The rugged yet refned second execution example, characterized by its screwdown caseback and streamlined beveled lugs, measures a hefy 39mm in diameter (and 13mm in thickness) and is a favorite of the Heuer collecting community. In fact, it was selected amongst 16 Autavia examples as the inspiration for the new TAG Heuer Autavia launched in 2017.
One of the most coveted of the many Autavia models, the reference 2446H was especially favored by its namesake, the rakish Formula One champion, Jochen Rindt, who was documented wearing this specifc reference in numerous photographs throughout his career. He was a prolifc racing driver in the 1960s until his untimely death during the practice session at Monza for the 1970 Italian Grand Prix. Supported by his beautiful wife Nina, who famously sported a Universal Genève Compax, now known to collectors as the “Nina Rindt”, this glamorous couple remains the only one where each partner’s name was bestowed to a watch by collectors.
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26/10/18 09:07
HEUER Ref. 2446H Autavia “Jochen Rindt”
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26/10/18 09:07
2. Goodwood
16.
Audemars Piguet – A rare and well-preserved limited edition titanium chronograph wristwatch with date and tachymeter bezel, numbered 31 of 1000, accompanied with boxes, papers, and original guarantee
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2004
Reference No.
26030IO.OO.D001IN.01
Case No.
F 23757, numbered 31/1000
Model Name
Royal Oak Ofshore Juan Pablo Montoya
Material
Titanium, carbon inserts
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2226, 54 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
52mm length case, maximum length 220mm
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and clasp signed.
Estimate $18,000-36,000 €15,600-31,300
Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet ftted presentation box, product literature, and original paperwork.
Colombian-born Juan Pablo Montoya entered the world of motorsports at an early age, encouraged by his father who taught him the basics of go-karting. From these beginnings, Montoya began his career in F300 and Formula One testing in 1997, and made his Formula One debut in 2001. He competed at the Formula One level until 2006, where he made the switch to compete in the NASCAR circuit. In 2007, he won the Rolex 24 at the Daytona International Speedway, winning it again in 2008 and 2013. He remains one of only two racecar drivers, alongside Mario Andretti, to achieve victory in Formula One, the Indianapolis 500, and the 24 Hours of Daytona. This is just one of numerous accolades that have catapulted him to being named one of the best Formula One drivers of all time.
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Of course, collectors will know very well the close relationship between motorsports and horology, and with its sportier Royal Oak Ofshore line, Audemars Piguet sought to add their name to the list of manufactures devoted to creating watches aligned with racing. The Royal Oak Ofshore Limited Edition Juan Pablo Montoya was frst released in 2004 in pink gold, platinum, and titanium. The titanium version was released in a limited series of one thousand. It’s a noteworthy model as it was the frst signifcant departure from the design of the earliest Ofshores, with its more aggressively-styled rectangular pushers and use of an exhibition caseback for the frst time. Early Ofshores can be especially recognized by their smaller, round chronograph pushers coated in a fre-resistant elastomer called “therban” that closely resembles rubber. With its “grand tapisserie” dial and motorsports-inspired case construction, the Royal Oak Ofshore Juan Pablo Montoya ushered in a new era for Audemars Piguet’s luxury sports watch category. Most notably, the classic eight screws at the bezel have been replaced with screws resembling the lug nuts of a motor vehicle. The inclusion of a tachymeter scale on the rehaut further harkens to the motorsports inspiration. The “grand tapisserie” dial, seen on many Royal Oak Ofshores, has an added fair with the subtle motif of a waving racing fag. Combining brash masculinity and sublime mechanics, carbon fber inserts to the case and bezel belie the beautifully fnished automatic caliber 2226, a modifed Jaeger-LeCoultre ébauche. The present lot is presented in “new old stock” condition, with no signs of wear, and complete with its original box, paperwork, and guarantee – a true time capsule piece for the connoisseur.
02/11/18 16:48
AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Ofshore “Juan Pablo Montoya”
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02/11/18 16:49
2. Goodwood
17.
Rolex – A well-preserved and very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with dark grey dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1965
Reference No.
6238
Case No.
1’206’586
Model Name
“Pre-Daytona”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722, 17 jewels, further stamped “ROW”
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet, max overall length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 79
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $30,000-50,000 €26,100-43,400
Rolex’s reference 6238 manual wound chronograph wristwatch was both the end of an era for the brand, and the beginning of something new, which would go on in the ensuing years to become one of their most successful wristwatches ever. The reference 6238 became known as the “pre-Daytona” because following this model, Rolex removed the tachymeter scale from the dial and added it to the bezel, which not only opened up the watch dial, making it more readable, but also giving the watch a less cluttered modern aesthetic. Also incorporating contrasting sub-dials, the new reference 6239 released in 1963 was the frst in a long line of models that today are iconic wristwatches that are all known today as the “Cosmograph Daytona”. The reference 6238 was produced for a short period from the early 1960s until 1967 and produced in stainless steel and yellow gold.
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What makes this reference 6238 exceptional is its extremely rare dark grey colored dial – by far the rarest dial variant used for these “pre-Daytona” chronographs according to scholarship. Featuring a radiant sunburst pattern, its stunning dial has luminous hour markers and hands that have aged to a pleasing yellow hue. Not only is it ftted with a highly sought afer dial, the present reference 6238’s case is very well-preserved, with a sharp bezel and strongly defned lugs. Collectors today seek vintage timepieces that not only are in excellent condition, but also have a historical context in the evolution of wristwatches. This “pre-Daytona” reference 6238 is a top quality example and one of the fnest to appear at auction – a trophy watch for the savvy collector.
26/10/18 09:08
ROLEX Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”
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26/10/18 09:08
2. Goodwood
18.
Patek Philippe – A very attractive and rare pink gold chronograph wristwatch with “spider” lugs and tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1944
Reference No.
1579
Movement No.
863’509
Case No.
638’746
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13”’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed.
Estimate $80,000-140,000 Σ O €69,500-122,000 Accessories With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with tachometer scale in 1944 and its subsequent sale on March 8th, 1946.
20th century. Released in 1943 at Basel and in production until 1964, the 36mm diameter Wenger case with faceted downturned lugs and rectangular chronograph buttons has an unconventional look that remains sophisticated with an elegant appeal. The Valjoux ébauche was fnished to the highest standards at Patek Philippe’s workshop and today it is known as the caliber 13”’, one of the fnest manual chronograph movements of its era. The present watch is very well-preserved and a lovely example of the model. The case’s lugs, edges, and angles remain sharp and the case hallmark on the lug is crisp. The dial is stunning, with its raised hard enamel printing perfectly preserved, and while the timepiece was manufactured in 1944, the watch was not sold until 1946 with the short brand signature, as one would expect for the period. The reference was made with two diferent series of Stern Frères-fabricated dials: • 1st series from 1943 to 1949: Arabic and baton numerals, baton or feuille hands, such as the present watch
Collectors of vintage Patek Philippe chronographs are most familiar with the frm’s landmark references: 130, 533, 591, 1463, 530 and 1579. The latter takes a somewhat unique position in this family, as it is the only model featuring fanciful lugs in the shape of briolette diamonds. Thanks to these unusual faceted lugs, the reference 1579 is also referred to as the “spider” lug chronograph, and features one of the most impressive case designs from the mid-
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• 2nd series from 1950 to 1964: Arabic and square numerals, feuille hands Patek Philippe’s oversized reference 1579 has a seductive allure and is a watch that today can be comfortably worn in either a formal or casual environment. This watch will attract all connoisseurs for its overall original condition and classic timelessness.
26/10/18 09:09
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1579
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26/10/18 09:09
2. Goodwood
19.
Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare white gold limited edition annual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, Breguet numerals, and original accessories, made to commemorate the ffth anniversary of the Patek Philippe boutique at Tifany & Co. New York
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2013
Reference No.
5396G
Movement No.
5’695’654
Case No.
4’584’303
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S QA LU 24H, 34 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $50,000-100,000 Σ €43,400-86,900 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin stamped by the Tifany & Co. Salon in New York, NY dated May 1st, 2013, Patek Philippe box with outer Tifany & Co. box, setting pin, numbered sale tag, product literature, and leather wallet. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming manufacture of this watch in 2013 and its sale on March 12th, 2013.
Tifany & Co. is Patek Philippe’s longest serving retailer and partner, having begun their relationship in 1847 and soon formalizing it in 1851 when the company was known as Tifany, Young & Ellis. At the time, Antoine Norbert de Patek had set upon an extended business trip to the United States to more frmly establish the brand’s presence in the U.S. market, as the European economy was weakened following the political and economic upheaval of 1848, sometimes known as the People’s Spring. To ensure the success of
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his young company, Patek needed to attract the wealthy clientele of the United States – and one of the best ways to do that was to align Patek Philippe with a brand already known for exclusivity and excellence. Tifany & Co. would represent Patek Philippe in the 1876 Centennial Exhibition in Philadelphia, underscoring the trust between the two frms. The earliest piece known from Patek Philippe to be sold through Tifany & Co. was delivered on December 31st, 1852, a hunter case pendant watch with blue enamel guilloché and diamond stars on the front and back covers. Since the 1990s, Tifany & Co. remains the only retailer that is still allowed to stamp their logo on the dial of Patek Philippe watches. Throughout the 19th, 20th, and 21st centuries, much has changed, but the relationship between Tifany & Co. and Patek Philippe has only strengthened. The present watch, the annual calendar reference 5396G, was created to celebrate the fve year anniversary of Patek Philippe’s boutique located inside the Tifany & Co. store on 5th Avenue in New York City. Incidentally, the Tifany & Co. Patek Philippe boutique was also the brand’s frst boutique in the United States. Tifany had asked Patek Philippe for a complicated timepiece to mark this occasion, and on the basis of their outstanding relationship, Patek Philippe granted this most unusual request. Manufactured in 2012 and released in 2013 in a limited edition of 100 pieces, it features three elements which set it apart from regular production ref. 5396 models – a black dial, white gold applied Breguet numerals, and of course, the Tifany and Co. stamp on the moon phase indicator. Ofered as a complete set in exceptionally well-preserved condition, it’s a rare and stunning limited edition model certain to delight any Patek Philippe collector.
26/10/18 09:09
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5396G “Tifany & Co”
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2. Goodwood
20.
Omega – An extremely rare and historically important stainless steel divers wristwatch with center seconds, fxed spring bars and special military markings, made for the British Royal Army
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1967
Reference No.
ST 165.024
Movement No.
24’719’484
Case No.
A204/67
Model Name
Seamaster 300, “Military”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 552, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Nylon
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $50,000-100,000 €43,400-86,900 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Certifcate of Origin dated January 19th, 2006, noting the military markings on the caseback and stating the present watch was delivered to Omega’s UK agents on April 27th, 1967. Additionally accompanied by updated Omega Certifcate of Origin dated June 18, 2018, stating the watch was delivered to the British Army. Literature This exact example, bearing the serial number 24’719’484, is illustrated in John Goldberger’s Omega Sportswatches, pp. 56-57.
Omega introduced the Seamaster 300 in 1957 as part of its “Professional” line of watches. Whilst the vast majority was produced for professional and recreational divers alike. A very small batch was made for military use from 1967 until approximately 1970, and custom designed by Omega to meet the needs of members of the British Royal Army and Navy.
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A number of special features set these military-issued watches apart from Omega’s regular production units. Their cases, with distinctive curved and beveled lugs, were delivered with fxed spring bars. Dials featured an encircled “T” designation, signifying the use of tritium for the luminous hour markers and hands. The broad, sword-shaped hour and minute hands, as well as the angular sweep seconds hand, were also specially designed. The crown was screw down as opposed to the snap down design as found on production versions. Their case backs were engraved by the British Ministry of Defense with the military branch code, issue number, and year of issue. As many were used in combat and on military deployments, very few have survived with all factory military features intact. We are therefore thrilled to ofer this piece in its full “mil-spec” confguration. The “W10” designation indicates that this Seamaster 300 was issued especially to the British Royal Army, whereas the majority of mil-spec watches that have appeared publicly were issued to the Royal Navy. A handful of units in the Royal Army were using dive watches in the late 1960s and early 1970s, most signifcantly the Special Air Service. The Special Air Service, or SAS, was and is an elite military unit that served as the model for the United States Delta Force. During the period between 1967 and 1971, at the height of the Cold War, the SAS were known to be active in various operations located in Aden (now the capital of Yemen, but in the mid-1960s a part of the British Protectorate of South Arabia), Oman, and Northern Ireland. John Goldberger’s Omega Sportswatches, prominently features this exact watch as being issued to the British SAS, a further testament to its rarity and importance. Military watches have remained collectible for their tangible ties to historic moments and rugged good looks, and this Seamaster 300 is a wonderfully preserved, premium example for the elite collector.
26/10/18 09:10
OMEGA Seamaster 300 “Military” “British Royal Army”
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26/10/18 09:09
3. Safari If looks could thrill
There’s more to carrying of a Hemingway-esque level of safari swagger than the requisite bush-friendly jacket: although Roger Moore's legendary torso-wear in movies such as The Man With The Golden Gun would add brio and fexibility to any modern wardrobe. The story of safari attire begins 150 years ago in colonial Kenya, with those now iconic jackets in crisp drill cotton with pockets, buttons, epaulets and a belt becoming part of the British military uniform for soldiers located in the tropics. Well-to-do outdoorsman such as Teddy Roosevelt and Robert BadenPowell adopted the look in the early 20th Century, but it was later that the aforementioned Hemingway caught on, along with Hollywood icons from Clark Gable to Johnny Weissmuller via Grace Kelly. Yves Saint Laurent’s inclusion of safari jackets in his collections cemented the garment’s role in the fashion pantheon and the rest, as they say, is history. The look has evolved: in the 1950s, the felt Borsalino replaced the pith helmet as the go to headwear to literally top-of the safari look, for example. And, as exemplifed here, the modern safari go-er – a man hopefully more likely to point his iPhone around the Savannah than a double-barrelled Holland & Holland – has the safari jacket’s more distant relations at his disposal, when it comes to roaming the wilds of Africa (or, indeed, his urban milieu of choice). As always, thoughtfully curated garments will ensure that the whole is vastly greater than the sum of its parts.
Lots 21 to 30 The word safari derives from the Swahili word for “journey,” and traces its origins to the mid-nineteenth century. The classic safari format includes waking at dawn for a small breakfast, a day spent walking and observing wildlife and landscapes, a short rest in the afernoon, a lavish dinner and an evening spent drinking and recounting the day’s sights. An increased British colonial presence in Southern Africa led to the rise of big-game hunting safaris. Today, safaris are synonymous with sophisticated cameras and ecotourism, though the original safari ethos remains, and the accompanying wristwatches are resistant to the elements, durable and practical. A Rolex Explorer II or robust Patek Philippe Aquanaut strapped on the wrist easily withstands these environments. Alternatively, a “tropical” Daytona with sub dials that have transformed from black to a rich, uniform latte brown for something more exotic. At once luxurious and sporty, a stainless steel Nautilus from Patek Philippe is another great option, with moon phase display to mimic the seemingly infnite canopy of stars above.
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29/10/18 18:18
Maker xxxxxx Watch xxxxxx
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26/10/18 08:58
3. Safari
Mr Porter’s look
Lot 29 Jaeger-LeCoultre. Memovox Polaris reference E859, stainless steel, circa 1968
The safari jacket in its purest form is spurned once again here, in favour of a cotton-canvas feld jacket, made by Aspesi, modelled on military-issue M-65s (hence the buttoned shoulder epaulettes, voluminous fap pockets and an internal drawstring). A wafe-knit Henley t-shirt from RRL lies beneath, while a pair of herringbone stretchcotton cargo trousers ensure the military favour continues below the torso. Elsewhere, Tom Ford’s burnished-leather 'Cromwell' boots - hooked eyelets, padded collars and durable rubber-lug soles included - would fare just as well on the Appalachian trail as it would the catwalks of Milan, and are matched on the slick-yet-rugged stakes by a boardroom-friendly rucksack in butter-sof suede from Brunello Cucinelli (who are also behind the woven leather belt). The fnal touch, a neck scarf from Altea, ties the whole thing up into a kind of tastefully paradoxical, urbane wilderness-warrior whole.
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Jacket by Aspesi Bandana by Altea T-shirt by RRL Trousers by Brunello Cucinelli Belt by Brunello Cucinelli Backpack by Brunello Cucinelli Boots by TOM FORD
26/10/18 08:59
The Rake’s look
Lot 23 Breitling. Navitimer ‘Pre-806’, stainless steel, circa 1955
Sharing much DNA with the traditional safari jacket, this ‘Shooter Jacket’ – a special version with a slightly larger lapel, created exclusively for The Rake, of a key item in Grenfell’s repertoire since the 1940s – is an ultra-functional, rugged classic. The internal pockets of the external ammo pouches, as well as the reinforced shoulders testify to its worthiness for serious outdoor pursuits. Meanwhile, inspired by the leg-wear worn by Nepalese soldiers who serve in the British Army, the Rubinacci pleated ‘Manny’ trousers, and the Anderson & Sheppard silk and cashmere scarf inject the spot of military chic requisite in any safari get-up, while suede chukka boots from Ludwig Reiter and a blue brushed cotton shirt from Emma Willis hike up the whole ensemble’s urban credentials. Literally topped of with a natty Panama from Lock & Co., it’s a look that gives the un-armed, metropolitan man plenty of sartorial fre-power.
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Jacket by Grenfell Shirt by Emma Willis Scarf by Anderson & Sheppard Trousers by Rubinacci Boots by Ludwig Reiter Hat by Lock & Co
26/10/18 09:00
3. Safari
21.
Rolex – A very rare stainless steel dual time wristwatch with date, cream “rail” dial, and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1987
Reference No.
16550
Movement No.
1’490’036
Case No.
9’720’297
Model Name
Explorer II
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3085, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78360, max length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $8,000-12,000 €6,900-10,400
Rolex’s Explorer models were watches designed and intended for adventurers. While the Explorer I was marketed to mountain climbers, the Explorer II with its 24-hour graduated bezel and its large, luminescent 24-hour hand arrow, was intended for those spending extended time in dark environments, such as spelunkers. Launched in 1985, the Rolex Explorer II reference 16550 was the frst Explorer II model to be ftted with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Only in production for less than a handful of years, it has become a favorite amongst collectors of Rolex sport watches. Due to a faw in the paint used in the
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reference’s earliest dials, watches ftted with originally white dials are ofen seen with tones that have aged to pleasing shades of ivory or cream. The most coveted among these are those ftted with “rail” dials, as found on this extremely well-preserved example. The term “rail” is used to describe the near perfect alignment of the vertical space between the text written across the two lines on the dial at 6 o’clock. You will notice “Superlative” and “Ofcially” are on the lef, while “Chronometer” and “Certifed” are on the right. In addition to the color change, the dials of the reference 16550 were made using a glossy, lacquered fnish, giving them a porcelain-like look. The white gold applied luminous hour markers complement the dial of the present example, and is diferent from dials used in the reference 16570, its successor, which used hour markers with black surrounds. Additionally, the reference 16550 allowed the 24-hour hand to be independently adjusted, rather than simply indicating whether it was day or night in dark environments. This Explorer II delights with its hardly worn condition, crisp, unpolished case, and beautifully aged dial. A very early example of the reference, it furthermore ofers collectors an interesting serial number, produced during the last year of Rolex’s sequential numbering system before the letter prefx system was introduced.
26/10/18 09:00
ROLEX Ref. 16550 Explorer II “Cream Dial”
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26/10/18 09:01
3. Safari
22.
Patek Philippe – A very attractive and well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds and date
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1999
Reference No.
5065/1A-001
Movement No.
3’011’259
Case No.
4’047’552
Model Name
Aquanaut
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 315/190 SC, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe brick-style bracelet, and additional Patek Philippe rubber strap with deployant buckle
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe double deployant clasps
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $15,000-25,000 O €13,000-21,700 Accessories Accompanied by Certifcate of Origin confrming the sale of this watch at the Wempe boutique in Hamburg, Germany on July 15th, 1999, extra tropical strap and buckle, product literature, Wempe certifcate, inner and outer box. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming this watch was manufactured in 1999 and sold on April 30th, 1999.
Just as an astronaut is one who explores space, an aquanaut is one who explores the seas. In order to be conferred such a title, one must actually spend time in these most extreme of habitats, and have appropriate wrist attire for such excursions. For those more likely to spend time sipping Mai Tai’s on a tropical island than living in an oxygen depleted environment under the sea, equally appropriate wristwear is also needed.
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Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut was the frst model produced and sold with a rubber strap. Released at Basel in 1997, the reference 5065A “Jumbo” was a limited edition watch of 1,000 timepieces, sold in both stainless steel and 18K yellow gold. The watch had a sporty appeal and was representative of Patek’s foray into creating a watch for more casual lifestyles – it was the frst Patek Philippe wristwatch to be released with a rubber strap. Though drawing some design cues from the Nautilus, released 20 years earlier, it can be considered a breed unto itself. The model quickly became a strong seller, and has been released in a variety of sizes and with several diferent complications in the intervening years. The reference 5065 was produced from 1998 until 2006, when it was replaced by the reference 5167A. The present, early reference 5065/1A-001 stands out among these as it is the only variant of the reference ever sold as a package that included both the rubber composite strap and steel bracelet. Even for a casual, sporty wristwatch, signifcant planning and attention to detail went into the design for the Aquanaut. The embossed, oversized guilloché dial is reminiscent of the brick design of both the steel bracelet and the rubber strap. Signifcantly more luminous material is used on the dial of the Aquanaut in comparison to the Nautilus, and the hands and indexes are consequently thicker. Both references share the vertically brushed fat bezel, though the Aquanaut has more angular corners, rather than the rounded, portholestyle corners of the Nautilus. Preserved in exceptional condition for almost two decades, and accompanied by all of its original accessories, the opportunity to own this very rare and original Aquanaut “Jumbo” is one not to be missed.
26/10/18 09:01
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5065A Aquanaut
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26/10/18 09:01
3. Safari
23.
Breitling – An early, very rare and highly attractive stainless steel pilot’s chronograph wristwatch with black gilt dial and slide rule bezel.
Manufacturer
Breitling
Year
1955
Reference No.
“Pre-806”
Case No.
844’845
Model Name
Navitimer
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72, 17 jewels, further stamped “BOW”
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,400-34,700
No stranger to pioneering feats of horology, in 1915, Breitling was among the earliest brands to launch a wristwatch chronograph. It was in 1923 that the manufacture patented a two-pusher chronograph, allowing for the frst time a chronograph to time separate, successive intervals without having to reset to zero between each interval. Breitling’s innovative and rich experience with chronographs resulted in one of the most iconic wristwatches of the 20th century and arguably, one of the most successful aviator’s wristwatches ever: the Navitimer. Over the years, the Navitimer has undergone a variety of cosmetic and mechanical changes, yet it has always remained a timing and measuring instrument rooted in strong traditions.
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The Navitimer is a tool watch in the purest sense. Each element of the watch was designed specifcally for accuracy and efciency in execution. The beaded edge allowed for pilots to grasp and turn the bezel while wearing thick leather gloves. Its slide rule – the frst ever incorporated within a wristwatch chronograph – was critical in making intricate calculations in the pre-digital era such as calculating fuel consumption, fight duration, and distance traveled. The “AOPA” logo, an applied gilt metal pair of wings, is the symbol of the Aircraf Owners and Pilots Association established in 1939 which is the largest international independent organization of pilots. The “AOPA” Navitimer was only made for the American market, and is consequently stamped on the movement with the import code, “BOW” for the Breitling Watch Corp. The present example stands out as it is an early, frst generation Navitimer - referred to as a “pre-806” as it has no reference number on its caseback - and believed to have only been available for purchase to members of the “AOPA”. Research by the manufacture shows that the present lot comes from a batch of cases produced in January of 1955. Retaining all of its original parts and having survived in remarkable, unpolished and unrestored condition, it’s a rare and exceptional watch for the connoisseur.
26/10/18 09:02
BREITLING Navitimer “Pre-806”
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26/10/18 09:02
3. Safari
24.
Patek Philippe – A fne and very attractive yellow gold wristwatch
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1947
Reference No.
565
Movement No.
960’102
Case No.
647’351
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-120
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $25,000-50,000 €21,700-43,400 Accessories With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1947 and its subsequent sale on September 18th, 1947.
Patek Philippe’s reference 565 is one of the greatest time only wristwatches of the 20th century. Released in 1938 and in production until 1952, the reference was available at the same time as other iconic timepieces by the frm, namely the iconic complicated watches of the mid-20th century, such as the
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perpetual calendar 1526 and 3448, and the perpetual calendar chronograph watches, the 1518 and 2499. It is certainly one of Patek Philippe’s sportier models from this early era thanks to its robust two-piece case construction and screw-down caseback. Not only is it water resistant – something of a rarity in the 1940s, but the model also features an inner sof iron case to shield the movement from the adverse efects of magnetic felds. The outer case is composed of only two parts constructed without the habitual snap-on bezel, further suppressing another entry point of dust and humidity The model was produced in a variety of combinations from stainless steel to yellow and pink gold models, with both center seconds and subsidiary seconds, as well as dials from two-tone, to silvered to pink champagne. The present watch is ftted with a very rare and charismatic dial with radially oriented art-deco style raised, hard enamel hour numerals. The case is furthermore preserved in excellent, unpolished condition, evidenced by the thick lugs and bezel. Along with companion timepieces like the references 530, 570 and 1503, the reference 565 is amongst one of the most collectible and desirable vintage designs today because its modern aesthetic is as valid now as it was in 1938.
26/10/18 09:02
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 565
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26/10/18 09:03
3. Safari
25.
Rolex – An exceptionally well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “tropical” subdials, tachymeter scale, and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1971
Reference No.
6265”, inner case back stamped 6262
Case No.
2’851’484
Model Name
Oyster Cosmograph
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 7835 19, end links stamped 271
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
2.71
Estimate $80,000-160,000 €69,500-139,000
Rolex’s Oyster Cosmograph Daytona is a keystone watch for any collection of tool timepieces. Since it was frst introduced in 1963 with a stainless steel bezel with tachymeter scale, the reference 6239, to the modern iteration with ceramic bezel, has captivated enthusiasts and for good reason. The Daytona is a reliable tool watch with a classic clean modern fair. It is as contemporary today, as it was nearly 60 years ago. Released in the late 1960s, the reference 6265, along with its companion piece, the reference 6263 with acrylic bezel, replaced the frst “Oyster” model, or those with screw down pushers, the reference 6240. The model was produced in stainless steel and yellow gold, as well as an exceptionally rare and possibly unique white gold model, and featured either standard dials or “Paul Newman” dials.
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The present Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is a sight to behold. Fresh to the international market and consigned by the family of the original owner, it is a stunning, early reference 6265 that is certainly one of the most remarkable examples ever to surface. Its most exceptional and immediately visible feature is its tropical dial, featuring subsidiary dials that have naturally aged to a charismatic light brown macchiato hue. The evenness with which the subdials have aged is truly extraordinary. The white graphics within each sub-dial are perfectly bright. Furthermore, the luminous hour markers are perfectly intact and identically match the luminous hands in color. The watch is further enhanced by the outstanding overall condition of the case, which remains sharp - unpolished with strong proportions and factory polished and brushed surfaces, as well as retaining its original MK 1 screw-down pushers. The present stainless steel model from 1971 is also ftted with its original bracelet stamped 2.71. The overall impact of this Daytona will impress any collector of vintage Rolex sports watches.
26/10/18 09:03
ROLEX Ref. 6265 Cosmograph Daytona “Tropical”
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26/10/18 09:03
3. Safari
26.
Omega – An early, very rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel and bracelet
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1958
Reference No.
2915-2
Movement No.
15’997’568
Model Name
Speedmaster, “Broad Arrow”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega partially extensible ladder bracelet, end links stamped no. 6, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $120,000-240,000 €104,000-208,000 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch and its subsequent sale in Argentina on December 22, 1958. Further accompanied by product literature of the era. Literature For another example of a reference 2915-2, please see Omega Sportswatches by John Goldberger, pp. 102-103.
In the feld of wristwatches, the Speedmaster is a true icon, and the most historically important model made by Omega. Its history spans almost sixty years with the very frst Speedmaster launched in 1957, having slowly and gracefully evolved through the decades with a variety of dial, hand, bezel, and bracelet variations, and today’s modern Speedmaster line has unmistakable ties to the original. The frst generation model, reference CK 2915, is considered by collectors as “the grail” for a number of reasons. In terms of design, it was the frst chronograph to feature a tachymeter scale (or, as
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Omega called it at the time, the Tacho-productometer scale) on the bezel, rather than on the dial. In terms of movements, Omega did not go for a brand new caliber, turning instead to caliber 321, an extremely robust and reliable column-wheel chronograph, which it recognized as the best available option for its new Speedmaster. In production only between 1957 and 1959, the reference 2915 was produced in three diferent iterations: -1, -2, and -3. CK2915-1 and -2 are the very frst – and most collectible Speedmaster models. They have unique diferences from all later generations of Speedmasters, most notably in their dial graphics and important elements of case design. The large, “Broad Arrow” minute and hour hands are one such trait, but also the metal bezel - rather than a bezel with black insert and slightly diferent dial graphics, distinguishable by the oval “O” of Omega. This oval will later become perfectly round. Also the case has details which would later be abandoned, such as the “Speedmaster” designation engraved on the slanted edge of the case back rather than on the center. The present lot, a reference 2915-2, belongs to the second iteration of the frst generation of Speedmasters, ftted with all of its original parts exhibiting all of the early details collectors adore. The frst is the rare Base 1000 metal bezel, followed by the dial confguration. The Omega signature features the iconic “fat” O followed by the slightly longer “r” in the Speedmaster signature. Its original “broad arrow” hands are well preserved, and the dial is stunning, with luminous hour markers perfectly matching the hands’ luminous material. Ofered in wonderful overall condition, this Speedmaster from 1958 is an all original textbook example of one of the very frst Speedmaster models - an enduringly iconic reference revered by enthusiasts, and a trophy watch for the connoisseur.
26/10/18 09:04
OMEGA Ref. 2915-2 Speedmaster “Broad Arrow”
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26/10/18 09:04
3. Safari
27.
Patek Philippe – A fne and rare stainless steel wristwatch with date, moon phase, power reserve and bracelet, with certifcate of origin, paperwork, and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2005
Reference No.
3712/1A-001
Movement No.
3’170’479
Case No.
4’330’059
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus integrated bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe hidden clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $40,000-80,000 €34,700-69,500 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present lot in 2005 and its subsequent sale on August 30th, 2005.
Patek Philippe introduced reference 3712/1A in 2005, and it remained in production for approximately one year – some estimate as few as eight months. Its successor, the muchcoveted reference 5712/1, was launched in October of 2006 to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus, alongside the references 5712R (the frst Nautilus to be ofered on a leather bracelet), 5800/1, 5980/1, and the highly successful 5711/1.
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Originally designed by world renowned Gerald Genta, the frst of the Nautilus family was presented in 1976. Reference 3712/1A was at the time of its launch, the most complicated version of the Nautilus made by Patek Philippe, which had previously only indicated the date. The letters following the ofcial name of the self-winding caliber 240 – PS IRM C LU – stand for “petite second” (small seconds), “indication de réserve de marche” (power reserve), “calandrier” (date), and “lune” (moon), all of which are present on the 3712 in an idiosyncratic but somehow harmonious arrangement. At frst glance, the 3712 appears quite similar to its successor, the 5712, but there are many noteworthy diferences when the watches’ details are examined. Most notably, the 3712 has a slightly smaller case measuring 42 mm in diameter as it is constructed using only two pieces compared with the more rounded, three piece, 43mm case of the 5712. The dial of the reference 3712 features wider grooves, or channels, and diferent hour markers than its successor. A particularly subtle but well-studied detail is the presence of just three red dots on the power reserve indicator, versus four dots on the 5712, to indicate a low remaining power reserve. With its extremely short production period, the reference 3712 is amongst the rarest of all variants of the Nautilus, making it extremely sought afer. The present example appears to have never been worn, and is ofered in pristine, close to new condition complete with all of its original accessories, certifcate, and hang tag – making it a superb example for the connoisseur.
26/10/18 09:04
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3712A Nautilus
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26/10/18 09:05
3. Safari
28.
Rolex – A very rare and highly attractive stainless steel military diver’s wristwatch with rotating bezel, fxed bar lugs, and military engravings, made for the British Navy Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1974
Reference No.
5513
Case No.
Case No: 3’926’998 repeated inside the case back. Case back exterior further stamped with military issued numbers 0552/923-7697 and unit number 504/76, case back interior further stamped 1.72
Model Name
Submariner, “MilSub”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Nylon
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate $110,000-220,000 €95,500-191,000
Rolex’s Submariner is a tool watch, which from its original launch in 1954 has been perennial favorite amongst enthusiasts, so much so it has been part of the brand’s product line ever since. The watch is a rugged masculine timepiece that is comfortable to wear, with a clean clutter free dial that is highly legible - a necessity when one is diving the ocean’s dark depths. It has evolved over the last 60 years from non-crown guard models with a depth rating of 100 meters, to models with crown guards, to today’s 300 meter depth rating found on modern Submariners. The present watch is a rare variant of the Submariner made for the British Royal Navy according to their specifcations, and are known today by collectors as the “MilSub”. While the MilSub’s subtleties are aesthetically pleasing to collectors today, these nuances were designed for specifc military purposes. Rather than design a new model, Rolex modifed these timepieces from specifcations provided by the British Ministry of Defense. “MilSubs” have wide sword-shaped hands for enhanced readability, an encircled “T” on the dial, indicating the use of luminescent tritium. Another feature was the 60-minute revolving bezel insert, instead of the civilian 15-minute calibrated bezel. The MOD also required a hack (stop seconds) feature and permanent, fxed spring bars welded to the lugs to prevent the ftting of a refective bracelet. Another noticeable diference between the military and civilian models are their case back engravings – the present lot marked with the “0552” code for British Ministry of Defense, “923-7697”, the NATO code, followed by the issue number. “504” and year of issue, “76”. When decommissioned, they were sold by the MOD during the 1980s, and purchased by civilians and dealers who ofen replaced or removed the military-specifc components - the encircled T dial, sword hands, 60’ bezel, engraved case back, and fxed spring bars to transform them into more commercial, “civilianized” Submariners. Thus, very few MilSubs have survived with their “military-spec” confgurations.
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ROLEX Ref. 5513 Submariner “MilSub”
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3. Safari
29.
Jaeger-LeCoultre – A fne and very rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date and alarm function
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
1968
Reference No.
E859
Movement No.
1’944’939
Case No.
117’029
Model Name
Memovox Polaris
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. K825, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $12,000-24,000 €10,400-20,800 Accessories Accompanied by Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1968. Literature “mstanga” has dedicated a 64 page booklet to the Polaris E859.
The famed Jaeger-LeCoultre “Memovox” (voice of memory) was introduced in 1950, quickly gaining traction as one of the most desirable and reliable alarm wristwatches on the market. A center disc with an arrow is operated by a second crown typically found at 2 o’clock, allowing the alarm function to be quickly and easily set. In an era where sports diving was gaining more and more popularity (indeed, advertisements of the era branded
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the E859 as “pour l’homme d’action” or “for the man of action”), Jaeger-LeCoultre’s response was to launch a unique, oversized, automatic waterproof divers’ wristwatch with an alarm function. Their goal was to ofer both visual (inner bezel) and auditory (alarm) timers for robust diver safety. To do so, the frm created a patented case back, which optimized the alarm’s sound transmission under water. The outer case, with its 16 holes, allowed for the alarm tone to be heard and also felt on the wrist, while the inner case sealed and protected the movement. The watch featured three crowns, each with the cross hatch pattern characteristic of Super Compressor watches: the frst for time setting, the second to rotate the inner bezel for dive timing, and the third to rotate the inner disc with arrow to set the alarm. Known in the United States as the Polaris, and in the European market as the “Skin Diver Memovox”, the reference E859 was made in 1714 total examples. This year, for the 50th anniversary of the model, Jaeger LeCoultre released a second modern re-interpretation of the Polaris (the frst having launched in 2009) in recognition of its iconic status. Finding original vintage examples of the Polaris, in crisp, unrestored condition has become increasingly difcult due to their growing popularity. This American “LeCoultre”-signed model is well-preserved in unpolished condition, retaining all of its sharp edges and lines as delivered from the factory 50 years ago – a perfect watch for the connoisseur.
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JAEGER-LECOULTRE Ref. E859 Memovox Polaris
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3. Safari
30.
Rolex – A rare and well-preserved stainless steel dual time wristwatch with Bakelite bezel and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
circa 1958
Reference No.
6542
Movement No.
DN’903’051
Case No.
397’320
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1066, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel riveted expandable Rolex Oyster bracelet , end links stamped 557, max overall length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 2.66
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $70,000-120,000 €60,800-104,000
Literature For another example of a reference 6542 with Bakelite bezel see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, p. 192.
Tool watches of the mid-20th century are some of the most collectible and sought afer timepieces today, and the Rolex reference 6542 GMT-Master, released in 1954, is a frst-generation model appreciated for its innovative mechanism and rare Bakelite bezel. Rolex developed the dual time zone watch in conjunction with Pan American airways so their personnel could tell both “local” and “home” time while traveling. With the introduction of the jet engine, intercontinental travel had become much more common and commercially available thus both fight staf and traveling executives needed a means to monitor time as they traveled
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across multiple time zones. Rolex created an ingenious method using the rotating Bakelite bezel that worked in conjunction with a fourth, 24-hour center hand permitting the wearer to clearly keep track of two time zones. The model had a robust, masculine appeal with highly legible dial, and the blue and red Bakelite bezel, unique to the reference 6542, allowed for the use of luminous numerals, which allowed the time to be visualized in the dark. Unfortunately, Bakelite, a type of plastic, proved to be fragile and could easily be chipped or cracked when the watch was either dropped or hit too hard against an edge. Within a few short years, Rolex released in 1959 a new model GMT-Master, the reference 1675, which replaced the Bakelite bezel with a far more resilient aluminum bezel insert. The model became an icon for sophisticates, and had such an international allure that in 1964, producers of the James Bond thriller, “Goldfnger”, featured it on the wrist of the female criminal, Pussy Galore. The present reference 6542, made circa 1958, is a lovely example of the model. It’s ftted with its original and still-glossy black lacquer dial with gilt lettering and luminous hour markers that have aged, along with the hands, to a warm brown hue. The case is beautiful, having never been polished, and retains its beautiful, crisp facets and original dimensions as delivered by the factory so many decades ago. The original luminous Bakelite bezel, so ofen missing or replaced on this reference, has aged gracefully over the last 60 years. Over the years, the GMT-Master has remained a perennial favorite amongst enthusiasts and the general public alike due to its practical functionality as a simple-to-use travel watch. It is a model that has a casual fair, which is suitable both in formal and informal settings, and complete, early examples like the present lot are wonderful watches that provide a window on to the innovative history of the brand and this iconic model’s origins.
26/10/18 09:06
ROLEX Ref. 6542 GMT-Master
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26/10/18 09:07
4. Positano How to stand out in the sun
When it comes to dressing for summer, the go-to reference guide for many a sartorially informed man is the jet-set era: a time when, enabled by the introduction of passenger aviation services in the late-ffies, people whose lifestyle formerly saw them dubbed “café society” began to enjoy spells of weapons-grade decadence in places such as Cannes, Capri and St Tropez. Lead protagonists included ultra-stylish men such as Gianni Agnelli, Aly Khan and Porfrio Rubirosa, who graced those summery hotspots wearing the fnest lightweight garments from Charvet and Caraceni. Contemporaries who wish to perfect summer menswear (a genre nailed utterly by contemporary dandies such as Nick Foulkes and Luca Rubinacci) have a considerable debt to the tailors of Naples who, in the 1930s, began deconstructing the traditional English suit jacket. The ‘spalla camicia’, or ‘shirt shoulder’ – created by removing the lining, canvas and pads – resulted in a coat that was smart and yet more apposite for la dolce vita than l’ufcio. We should also pay homage to fabric innovators – the Zegnas, Scabals and Vitale Barberis Canonicos of this world – who work tirelessly to create ever more functional cloths, including those whose ultra-low micron thickness make them perfect when a suit is necessary with the rays beating down. So how, starting from the ground up – preferably with some wellchosen loafers or espadrilles – should one compile a natty guise once the mercury starts to head north?
Lots 31 to 40 John Steinbeck once commented on the dress code of Positano, “Clothing is as harum-scarum as a man’s mind can wish, but it must be comfortable.” Indeed, Positano is a vertical town, brightly painted houses seemingly implanted into the sides of clifs, overlooking naturally turquoise waters. As you wind your way upwards through narrow cobblestone paths, you inhale lemon-scented air as overgrown olive trees brush your shoulders. By the time you arrive at your destination, perspiring and in desperate need of an aperitivo, the sun has begun to lower in the sky. The watches must be light on the wrist: for example, an ultra-thin Patek Philippe perpetual calendar in cool platinum with an exquisite blue dial. If it is weight you seek, so as to deserve the multi-course feast ahead of you, a multi-colored, gem-set Rolex sports watch in gold will refect the array of colors featured in the surrounding architecture.
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Maker xxxxxx Watch xxxxxx
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4. Positano
Mr Porter’s look
Lot 31 Heuer. Mareographe reference 2447, stainless steel, circa 1964
Tote bags becoming a bona fde men’s accessory is a fashion tide-shif that couldn’t have come sooner, and, alongside the beaded bronzite bracelet by Japanese brand Miki seen here, this tan one by Dunhill is a neat ft with Bottega Veneta’s ‘Intrecciato’ suede Espadrilles. Elsewhere, some snappy layering comes courtesy of Boglioli’s burgundy cardigan – a piece that’s typical of the Italian family brand’s capacity for blurring the line between sweater and unstructured jacket – and a white striped 'Mao' shirt cut from lightweight linen with grandad collar by P. Johnson, a Sydney-based outftter that manufactures in Italy. Louis D-Frame sunglasses in rose gold-tone and green by Tom Ford (whose bold-retro eyewear seems to get better every season) and pleated shorts in cotton twill from Rubinacci complete a look that’s achingly debonair with a healthy streak of quirkiness.
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Cardigan by Boglioli Shirt by P. Johnson Shorts by Rubinacci Bracelet by Mikia Espadrilles by Bottega Veneta Tote bag by Dunhill
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The Rake’s look
Lot 34 Rolex. Daytona “Rainbow” reference 116598RBOW, 18 karat yellow gold, diamonds, and sapphires, circa 2012
An ensemble so chilled, a glance at it slows the pulse, this selection’s (gently) beating heart is a blue shirt in lightweight Italian linen from Jermyn Street’s shirting queen Emma Willis: a garment whose summery tone strikes a mellifuous chord with the brown checked jacket, from Italian house Lardini, that will enshroud it when the chillier evenings draw in. George Cleverley’s sky-blue loafers (aptly named ‘Riviera’) chime beautifully with that upper-torso colour scheme, while Anderson & Sheppard’s beige cotton shorts are a useful and versatile addition to any wardrobe. London-based purveyors of uber-quality eyewear manufacturer, Royal Warrant holder to Michael Caine, Oliver Goldsmith supply the essential sunglasses here.
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Jacket by Lardini Shirt by Emma Willis Pocket square by Rubinacci Shorts by Anderson & Sheppard Loafers by George Cleverly Sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith
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4. Positano
31.
Heuer – A fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tidal indication
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
1964
Reference No.
2447
Case No.
78’927
Model Name
Mareographe
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, Valjoux 721, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Heuer buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $4,000-6,000 €3,500-5,200
The Heuer Mareographe, the Heuer-branded, European counterpart of the Seafarer model retailed by the Abercrombie & Fitch Co. American sporting goods company, saw its earliest iteration in the Heuer Solunar, a time-only watch created by Jack Heuer in the 1940s. Designed with help from his high school physics teacher, according to his autobiography, it featured a unique, brightly colored tidal indicator at 6 o’clock. Though the Solunar was ultimately unsuccessful, the post-World War II societal shif towards outdoor activity and growing demand for sporting watches compelled Heuer to combine the tidal indicator of the Solunar with a chronograph function, resulting in the Mareographe.
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Featuring multi-colored tidal indicators similar to the Solunar, the Mareographe continued to evolve over several iterations culminating in a dial featuring sky blue and silver colors in the early 1960s, housed in the reference 2444 case. The introduction of the Carrera case in 1963 would once again alter the aesthetics of the Mareographe; though it retained the same sky blue accents on the tidal indicator and minute totalizer, the case is instantly recognizable with its bold, faceted lugs typical of classic Carrera chronographs. Sky blue accents on the dial would continue to appear on the dial of all subsequent iterations of the Mareographe and its branded counterparts, including the Orvis Solunagraph introduced in 1973. Orvis was another American-based sporting goods store focused primarily on fshing among other outdoor pursuits. Scholarship shows that the Mareographe reference 2447 was produced for approximately fve years, beginning in mid-1963. Mareographes and Seafarers were produced concurrently, though the sportive American Seafarer was a far more popular model, resulting in lower production numbers for the Mareographe. Produced in 1964, this early example features an immaculately preserved dial retaining the vivid sky blue colors in the 3 and 9 o’clock subdials that make the Mareographe especially prized by collectors. The sharp, luminous dauphine hands balance with the steel faceted baton indexes, all elements which further harmonize with the Carrera-style case. Unpolished and unrestored, the present watch is in wonderful original condition making it a great example for the collector.
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HEUER Ref. 2447 Mareographe
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4. Positano
32.
Rolex – A very rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “tropical” brown registers and bracelet, retailed by Bucherer, accompanied with presentation box, original booklet, and guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1970
Reference No.
6264, inside case back stamped 6239
Case No.
2’750’768
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 7835 19, end links stamped 271, max overall length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 2.71
Dimensions
36.5mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $40,000-80,000 €34,700-69,500 Accessories With Bucherer presentation box, original Rolex Guarantee stamped Bucherer AG, dated Sept 18, 1973, and product literature
Introduced in the late 1960s, the reference 6264, along with its companion model reference 6262, was the last Rolex Daytona model to feature round “pump”-style chronograph pushers. With the release in 1969 of the references 6263
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and 6265, Rolex committed to screw-down pushers for enhanced water resistance. The 6264 is amongst the rarest of all Daytona references with a production span of approximately three years. Produced in stainless steel, 18K and 14K gold, there are believed to be only approximately 1700 examples in stainless steel. Housed with the upgraded caliber 727, the model was the successor to the reference 6241 with a black acrylic bezel and white tachometer graduation. The present example is sure to attract passionate connoisseurs both for its excellent overall condition with sharp milling to the case back, beautifully preserved outline and crisp factory fnish to the underside of the lugs, as well as the exceptional “tropical” silver dial featuring subsidiary dials that have aged to a uniform and beautiful dark chocolate brown tone. Fresh-to-themarket and consigned by the original owner, the watch is enhanced with the original Bucherer presentation box and Rolex Guarantee stamped by the prestigious Swiss retailer. Vintage Daytona Cosmograph watches are one of the most desirable timepieces in today’s collectors’ watch market. The present lot presents a rare opportunity to own of the most sought afer references, made even more desirable with its superb dial, original owner provenance, exceptional state of preservation, and completeness.
26/10/18 09:09
ROLEX Ref. 6264 Cosmograph Daytona “Tropical”
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4. Positano
33.
Rolex – A fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with dial displaying “Sigma” symbols and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1974
Reference No.
6265
Case No.
4’137’973
Model Name
Oyster Cosmograph
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped no. 57
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed
Estimate $40,000-60,000 €34,700-52,100
Fresh to the market, it features an elegant and attractive silvered soleil “Sigma’” dial. The Greek symbol sigma is found at the outer wings of the “T Swiss T” designation, signifying the hour markers and hands are made of white gold. A pleasant purplish hue has begun to eclipse the original black color on the subsidiary dials, and is complemented well with the even, cream-colored shade the luminous material has developed. The current lot, with its “Sigma” dial and crisp case that retains its factory edges and curves, ofers collectors the chance to own a rare chronograph with a striking combination of utility and sophistication. A charming engraving is found on the caseback, bearing the name “J.B. Linsmayer,” who it’s believed refers to the late James B. Linsmayer, a prominent businessman and philanthropist from Minnesota.
The Rolex Daytona references 6263 and 6265, launched in 1969, feature a practical upgrade from their predecessors, the 6264 and 6262, respectively, in the form of screw down pushers and crown. Due to these improvements, the model now guaranteed a more waterproof design, as indicated by the “Oyster” designation on the dial.
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ROLEX Ref. 6265 Cosmograph Daytona “Sigma Dial”
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4. Positano
34.
Rolex – A very rare, heavy and attractive yellow gold, diamond and rainbowcolored multi-gem set chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, ftted presentation box and original guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2012
Reference No.
116598RBOW, inner case back stamped 2118
Movement No.
3E’111’5P9
Case No.
07’17U’191
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona, “Rainbow”
Material
18K yellow gold, sapphires, diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex twinlock deployant clasp,
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
stamped 6DD
Estimate $180,000-280,000 O €156,000-243,000 Accessories Accompanied by original Rolex guarantee card, product literature, leather envelope, outer presentation box, hang tags, and bezel protector.
During the 1980s, Rolex began to adorn their sports watches with precious gemstones for its most exclusive and demanding clientele. Among these frst early gemset sports watches are the manually-wound Daytona references 6269 and 6270 (the former with brilliant-cut diamonds at the bezel and the latter with baguette-cut diamonds) and the GMT-Master reference 16758 “SARU” set with rubies, diamonds, and sapphires. In the late 1990s through the 2000s, Rolex specifcally utilized the ultimate
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luxury tool watch, the Cosmograph Daytona, as a vehicle for gemological experimentation. Examples with large baguette-set bezels, pavé diamond dials, emeralds, rubies or sapphires to name a few combinations have been produced, always in very small quantities and with extreme attention to quality and execution. Set with 36 rainbow-hued sapphires, 56 diamonds adorning the lugs and crown guards, and diamonds indicating the hours, to call the Rainbow Daytona luxurious and lavish is an exercise in understatement. Each sapphire – every single gemstone used is internally fawless - is perfectly cut to ft without prongs into the bezel, and selected with the right color for transitioning to the stones on adjacent sides, so that rather than seeming like 36 individual stones, they blend into one another. Due to the difculty in sourcing these stones, subjecting them to Rolex’s high standards, and then ftting them into the watch, production numbers remain extremely low and only a handful have surfaced at auction. The now-discontinued yellow gold model was quickly followed by a white gold variation, also discontinued, and then, unexpectedly, earlier this year (2018) Rolex surprised the community at Baselworld by introducing a version cased in Everose, sparking new passions (and likely infaming old desires) for this most exclusive of Daytonas. To behold the exceptionally created Rainbow Daytona is second only to owning it. The present lot is in excellent condition and complete, making it an opportunity to own what has become a legendary wristwatch, not just among Rolexes but all wristwatches.
02/11/18 16:52
ROLEX Cosmograph Daytona “Rainbow”
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4. Positano
35.
Audemars Piguet – An exceptional, attractive, and large limited edition pink gold, titanium, ceramic and diamond-set chronograph wristwatch with date, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2013
Reference No.
26210OI.OO.A109CR.01
Movement No.
882’458
Case No.
I04234, no. 212/600
Model Name
Royal Oak Ofshore Chronograph LeBron James
Material
18K pink gold, titanium, ceramic, and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3126/3840, 59 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Grey rubber Audemars Piguet strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Audemars Piguet buckle
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $30,000-50,000 €26,100-43,400 Accessories Accompanied with original guarantee dated 12/2013, and signed Audemars Piguet Boutique S.P. A., Milano, grey leather Royal Oak Ofshore Limited Edition Lebron James ftted presentation box, product literature, addition grey rubber Audemars Piguet strap, two grey crocodile Audemars Piguet straps and outer packaging.
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Like its namesake, the limited edition LeBron James Royal Oak Ofshore Chronograph by Audemars Piguet is a trendsetter that defnes style, sophistication, and overall good taste. First released in 1993, the Ofshore was the modern and sporty interpretation of the iconic Gerald Genta-designed Royal Oak model. Produced to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak, The original Ofshore featured an automatic chronograph movement and came in an impressive 42mm diameter case, which while today is the norm, it was considered massive in 1993 and was quickly nicknamed “The Beast”. The limited edition LeBron James, made in 600 examples, celebrates the famed basketball player who in his frst year of play with the Cleveland Cavaliers in 2003 was named NBA Rookie of the Year. The LeBron James Ofshore chronograph has style and personality. The pink gold case is topped with a brushed titanium bezel, and oversized ceramic chronograph pushers, with the start/stop button uniquely set with diamonds. The grey tapisserie dial has applied pink gold Arabic numerals and blue hands for the chronograph’s sweep seconds, 30 minute, and 12 hour registers. The sapphire crystal display back features James’s signature in blue and provides a window to the highly fnished movement featuring an open-worked 22K gold rotor with anthracite galvanic treatment and raised AP logo. Presented in unused condition, and complete with guarantee and LeBron James presentation box, the present chronograph is a dynamic watch that pays tribute both to a stellar brand and one of their most famous ambassadors.
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AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Ofshore “LeBron James”
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4. Positano
36.
Blancpain – A very rare, early, and unusual stainless steel anti-magnetic diver’s wristwatch with black lacquered dial and center seconds.
Manufacturer
Blancpain
Year
Circa 1953
Movement No.
300’069’172
Case No.
1121
Model Name
Fify Fathoms
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. AS 1361N, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,400-34,700
Even though Blancpain’s Fify Fathoms has been in production since the early 1950s, scholarship regarding this fascinating model continues to be written. The story of its origins are well known, rooted in solving the needs of an elite branch of the French Navy – the Service de Documentation Extérieure et de Contre-Espionnage – tasked with underwater espionage and other covert operations. The head of this unit was Captain Bob Maloubier, and he personally sketched out the watch that would one day be fully realized as the Blancpain Fify Fathoms. Maloubier found a champion for his project in Blancpain’s CEO Jean-Jacques Fletcher - a passionate diver himself. Fletcher named the watch afer the greatest depth that a combat diver was believed able to withstand at the time.
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The watch combined cutting edge features such as an anti-magnetic and water-resistant case, a screw down case back, a “double O-ring crown system”, an automatic movement and a rotating bezel. Extremely robust and reliable, it was truly designed by military professionals, and was soon selected by other militaries around the world for their diving units, including the U.S. Navy. Earliest examples such as the present lot have what collectors have dubbed the “Luxor” minute hand, referring to the small separation between the tip of the hand, resembling the obelisks of Luxor Temple in Egypt. Another indication of rarity is the gilt printing of the manufacture and model name, and the narrower text of ROTOMATIC versus the larger printing of INCABLOC. Later examples would have the dial graphics printed in white, with ROTOMATIC INCABLOC aligned. The original Bakelite bezel is also remarkably preserved, with no cracks as is ofen seen. “Des hautes cimes aux grandes profondeurs” – or, “from high peaks to great depths” – was the phrase used by Blancpain advertisements of the era, and indeed, these watches were meant to attain both – and some certainly did. To fnd such an early example preserved in such exemplary condition is an exciting opportunity for collectors.
26/10/18 09:12
BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms
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4. Positano
37.
Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with blue dial and moon phase, certifcate of origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2010
Reference No.
5140P
Movement No.
5’551’402
Case No.
4’742’481
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240Q, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $40,000-80,000 Σ €34,700-69,500 Accessories With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated January 14th, 2011 and signed by the retailer Betteridge, Inc., Greenwich, CT, battery operated automatic ftted presentation box, leather envelope and product literature. Further with a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with blue sunburst dial in 2010 and its subsequent sale on December 2nd, 2010.
Patek Philippe has always been a perennial favorite amongst collectors known both for their classic designs and innovative complicated movements. The brand has a long history of exquisite timepieces that since its inception in 1839, have risen to the top in terms of collector desirability. Their frst serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatches reach back to 1941 when the brand released the reference 1526, followed
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by other exceptional models like the references 2497 and 2438/1 introduced in 1951 as their frst perpetual calendar with center seconds, the reference 3448 released in 1962 as the frst self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch, which was replaced in 1981 by the reference 3450 – their frst serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indicator. Patek Philippe introduced the reference 3940 in 1986, replacing the reference 3450, as a more modern, less angular wristwatch considered by many enthusiasts as one of the fnest examples of a complicated timepiece with round case and microrotor-based automatic movement. Its successor, the reference 5140, was introduced in 2006 and continued to use the prestigious caliber 240Q, however the model was updated with a slightly larger 37mm diameter case, compared to the 36mm of the 3940. Reference 5140 also introduced more daring dial colors such as a brown dial ftted on the rose gold version and a metallic blue dial on the platinum edition. The present wristwatch is fresh to the market and in excellent overall condition, ofered complete with its original certifcate of origin and ftted presentation box with electronic winding rotor. The metallic blue dial radiates brilliantly from the platinum case providing a charismatic appeal and masculine aesthetic. Patek Philippe’s long line of perpetual calendar wristwatches are classic timepieces - suitable for all seasons and occasions, and this exceptional, hardly worn modern example will surely attract all collectors.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Re. 5140P
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4. Positano
38.
Omega – A very rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel and bracelet
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1960
Reference No.
2998-2
Movement No.
17’302’542
Model Name
Speedmaster
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega bracelet, end links stamped 6, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp, stamped 4.60
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $25,000-50,000 €21,700-43,400 Accessories Accompanied by an Omega Extract from the Archives confrming the sale of the present watch to Japan and produced on June 23, 1960
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Omega’s original Speedmaster, the reference 2915, was the frst tool watch to feature a tachymeter scale on the bezel opposed to the dial, which had been the norm for chronograph wristwatches throughout the 1930s, 40s, and 50s. This innovative design would be a game changer and within a few years, it was employed to many brands. First released in 1957, the reference 2915 featured the foundations for all future Speedmaster timepieces, and it is from this lineage the series of reference 2998 was born. Released in 1959, early examples like the present watch used the famed Lemania caliber 321, which is revered amongst watch enthusiasts for its robust chronograph mechanism. The manual wound caliber was used by Omega from 1946-1968, and while small in size at 27mm diameter, it ofered optimal performance and reliability. Early Omega Speedmaster watches are rare in today’s market and when combined with its original unpolished condition, the present chronograph is a collector’s dream. The dial has aged nicely with the lume plots and hands matching in a light yellow hue. The very rare “base 1000” tachymeter has aged beautifully with minor signs of wear – especially difcult to fnd in such well-preserved condition. Today, the reference 2998 is an icon known for its classic modern aesthetic. The legendary Speedmaster would later be chosen as the watch brought to and worn on the moon, and this early, high quality example ofers a great opportunity for the savvy collector.
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OMEGA Ref. 2998-2 Speedmaster
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4. Positano
39.
Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phase, certifcate of origin and ftted presentation box, factory double sealed
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2006
Reference No.
5970R-001
Movement No.
3’048’949
Case No.
4’439’989
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, clasp signed.
Estimate $80,000-120,000 Σ €69,500-104,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin confrming the sale of the present watch on November 16th, 2007 in Newport Beach, California, product literature, leather wallet, factory box and seal, inner ftted presentation box and outer box.
Patek Philippe’s reference 5970 was released in 2004 as the direct successor of the reference 3970 – all descendants of the frm’s beloved reference 1518. Some 18 years afer the introduction of reference 3970, Patek Philippe made an unprecedented move with the introduction of the reference 5970 - harmonizing the need for a modern style while staying true to their classic roots. The new reference
introduced a much larger case, which was in fact 4mm larger than its predecessor. This change in and of itself was very well received amongst the collector community thanks to its superbly balanced proportions that make it very comfortable to wear. Like its predecessors, the reference 5970 also housed a heavily modifed Lemaniabased caliber similar to the reference 3970. However, the 5970 incorporated square pushers as opposed to round – a feature that was last seen on a perpetual calendar chronograph by Patek Philippe on the frst series examples of the iconic reference 2499 made during the 1950s. Reference 5970 was only in production for seven years until Patek Philippe released the reference 5270 housing its own, in-house perpetual calendar chronograph movement. The reference 5970 has since continued to grow in popularity amongst the collector community, and is highly soughtafer today.
The reference 5970 ofers everything someone would want in a Patek Philippe including high-quality crafsmanship both in aesthetics and mechanics, as well as wearability and exclusivity. The present example in 18 karat pink gold represents a very rare opportunity for the connoisseur. Preserved in new condition, exactly as it lef the factory over a decade ago, it remains double sealed in its factory box and comes complete with all boxes, papers, certifcate of origin, and accessories including a second caseback.
STOCK PHOTO FOR INFORMATION. NOT ACTUAL WATCH.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5970R “Double Sealed”
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4. Positano
40.
Rolex – An extremely fne and very rare yellow gold anti-magnetic chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1945
Reference No.
3525
Case No.
380’234
Model Name
Oyster Chronograph Antimagnetic
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex riveted stretch Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold deployant clasp, stamped Rolex and Gay Frères
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $75,000-100,000 €65,100-86,900
Literature For another example of a reference 3525 however cased in 18K yellow gold and stainless steel, see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, page 84.
A milestone wristwatch within Rolex’s storied legacy of chronographs, the reference 3525 was launched in 1939 and remained in production for less than 10 years. Produced in yellow gold, pink gold, stainless steel, or the combination of stainless steel and yellow gold, the
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reference 3525 was Rolex’s frst chronograph wristwatch to be housed in an Oyster case - equipped with a water resistant screw down case back along with screw down crown. This late-production example, evidenced by the serial number between the lugs, retains its original “Brevet” Oyster crown and is in overall wonderful condition. The dial with straight printing at 12 o’clock, typical of later examples, is incredibly attractive, with a vividly preserved blue telemeter scale contrasting wonderfully with the gold bullet-shaped indexes and yellow gold handset. The serial number between the lugs and hallmarks on the underside of the case are extremely crisp and well-preserved. Adding a luxurious element to an already superb example, the bracelet is an early, extensible, straight-end link Oyster bracelet manufactured by Gay Frères for Rolex. At the time dubbed “the bracelets which are most frequently copied” by the company’s advertisements, Gay Frères continued to produce remarkably well-engineered and now-iconic bracelets for Rolex and other manufactures for most of the 20th century. At a certain point in the 1970s, the Gay Frères factory employed over 500 specialized employees, the largest in Geneva. We are truly excited to present such a beautiful example of an early Rolex Oyster chronograph, rarely seen in 18 karat yellow gold.
26/10/18 09:16
ROLEX Ref. 3525 Oyster Chronograph
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5. Business And why it’s such a big deal
Dressing for work is no longer a straight-forward endeavour. If you work in a fnancial district, Patrick Bateman’s polished Wall Street guise remains a potent force almost two decades afer American Psycho hit the screens; if your corporate milieu is of the foosball-in-the- boardroom variety, there’s nothing wrong with a streetwear/suiting dichotomy. Further complicating things, the rules constantly evolve: as recently as the 1970s, strolling out for lunch without a jacket on in any major city could warrant a serious ticking of in the CEO’s ofce; now, a casual approach to ‘smart’ is as frmly rooted in corporate culture as digitalisation and watercooler chit-chat. A major consideration is comfort: what you’re assembling here is a look that you’ll be wearing over at least an eight-hour period, with lengthy sedentary spells cadenced by active bursts and perhaps a commute (which brings huge variations in temperature into the mix). Another priority is looking, and feeling, ‘the biz’: here, one must always keep in mind the imperious clout added to a man’s demeanour by well-cut suiting (see Gordon Gekko’s ultra- sharp silhouettes over Adam Sandler’s tailoring-bynumbers in Punch Drunk Love). Perhaps the most important criterion of all with business attire, though, is balance: knowing how to negotiate the boundary between tastefully bold and clumsily famboyant. The au courant ofce denizen should aim to look inconspicuous yet distinctive, understated yet bold, efortlessly dapper – these are not oxymorons in the modern professional realm. And don’t be afraid to bend the rules once you’re sufciently acquainted with them. Suits with trainers? The answer, these days, is “Maybe…”
Lots 41 to 50 The ofce is deceptively the most difcult location to choose the appropriate watch. So many diferent considerations – age, level, setting, industry – all come into play and lead to a diverse variety of watches on the wrists of the modern businessperson. In the end, it all comes down to the efect you wish to have on your colleagues and counterparts – and perhaps even your professional adversaries. Historically, brands such as Omega produced watches that would acquit themselves well in professional environments – such as Omega’s Railmaster, meant to withstand high levels of magnetism in felds such as science and engineering. With the advent of the digital age, comfort and convenience have taken precedence over timing productivity or withstanding great depths. Timeliness in the business world is truly next to godliness, so perhaps F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance featuring two independent balances resonating in synchronicty with each other – as well as permitting two time displays for tracking international teams – would be an ideal choice.
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5. Business
Mr Porter’s look
Lot 42 F.P. Journe. Chronomètre à Résonance, 18K pink gold, circa 2014
The leading role in this ensemble goes to a six-button, double-breasted suit from Mr Porter’s Kingsman collection: a collaboration, named after the movies starring Colin Firth, with director Matthew Vaughn based on Arianne Phillips’ costume design. Its high armholes, wide peak lapels and leg-elongating pinstripes conspire to make the wearer exude authority. Those who have seen the flms in question will recognise the glasses and pocket square here as sturdy supporting cast, while the elegant white shirt and red tie combo come courtesy of Charvet – the famed French shirt-maker and haberdasher which counts various royalty and presidents among its clientele. The handiwork of another French giant, Berluti, will have caught the eye of those well-versed in the art of patinas when it comes to the shoulder bag in rich, supple leather, while the 'Fulham' monk strap shoes in dark oak from Edward Green complete a look which stakes a loud, if unspoken, claim on the corner ofce.
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Suit by Kingsman Shirt by Charvet Tie by Charvet Briefcase by Berluti Shoes by Edward Green
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The Rake’s look
Lot 47 Patek Philippe. Single Pusher “Ofcier” chronograph with Breguet numerals, 18K yellow gold, circa 1928
A pair of cap-toed leather Oxfords from Northamptonshire shoemaker Edward Green sets an elegant precedent from the ground up here, creating an air of dignifed sobriety ofset immediately by juxtaposition with a burst of colour, thanks to some orange socks from Jermyn Street outftter New & Lingwood. A two-minute walk west from N&L will bring the reader to the source of the shirt seen here: Turnbull & Asser – a clothier patronised by Sir Winston Churchill, Frank Sinatra and, in the realms of fction, James Bond, among others. A bespoke business shirt from here will become a focal point for many an ensemble for many an occasion. Lardini, the 40-year-old Italian outftter plays protagonist in this look with a sofly silhouetted charcoal suit with a distinctive navy windowpane check, while Drake’s and Ettinger provide the fnishing touches with a patterned yellow tie and a smart briefcase respectively.
Suit by Lardini Shirt by Turnbull & Asser Tie by Drake’s Briefcase by Ettinger Shoes by Edward Green
All in all, a gently playful take on traditionalism.
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5. Business
41.
Rolex – A rare, highly attractive, and exceptionally well-preserved yellow gold dual time wristwatch with center seconds and date
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1971
Reference No.
1675
Movement No.
D059’513
Case No.
2’870’016
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $12,000-18,000 €10,400-15,600
The Rolex GMT-Master has long established itself as a purpose built sports watch. The reference 6542 was the frst iteration of the product line and was originally made for pilots to keep track of “home” and “local” times. The reference 1675 was its successor, building on the model’s tool watch lineage, and ofered in stainless steel, stainless steel and gold, and all gold models. The present example was one of the frst sports watches to be ofered in a solid gold case, catering to a new type of client who valued utilitarian design with prestige and class. A stylish alternative of the reference’s original “tool watch” roots, the 18K yellow gold case coupled with a suave brown bezel and dial is a reminder of the glitz and glamour air travel used to be known for.
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The example presented is remarkable for its exceptional state of preservation. Still retaining its original caseback sticker and showing signs of hardly ever being worn, it ofers more than just a gold case. Its beautifully aged brown bezel and nipple dial– now turning the color of a full-bodied red wine– applied Rolex coronet, and sparkling gold lettering give this model substantial depth to its beauty. The untouched case and matching luminous further enhance the watch’s appeal. The rich tones of the gold and brown, developed over decades, provide the wearer a glimpse into the golden era of travel. A handsome example, this GMT-Master ticks all the boxes for both the casual and serious collector with its distinguished gold case, beautiful dial, and outstanding condition. It will bring years of pleasure to its next owner.
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ROLEX Ref. 1675 GMT-Master
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5. Business
42.
F.P. Journe – A very fne and highly attractive pink gold dual time wristwatch with double escapement, with original guarantee card and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
Circa 2014
Case No.
350-RN
Model Name
Chronomètre à Résonance
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1499.3, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold F.P. Journe buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $20,000-30,000 Σ • €17,400-26,100 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe Certifcate of Authenticity showing this timepiece was purchased at the F.P. Journe boutique in New York on June 18th, 2014, cleaning cloth, ftted presentation box, and outer box.
become, since its inception in 2000, one of contemporary horology’s most iconic pieces. It was the world’s frst wristwatch to use the resonance phenomenon. The movement is composed of two independent balances, alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”. When in motion, the balances create the resonance efect and beat in synchrony, naturally evening out each other’s discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy. Inspired by the work of the great 18th century watchmaker Antide Janvier, and of course the infuence of AbrahamLouis Breguet, Journe took up the challenge in 1983 to frst create a pocket-watch using the resonance phenomenon and followed it with a wristwatch 17 years later. Janvier had put two pendulum clocks side by side in order to see if the vibrations of one would regulate the other. The concept of resonance had surfaced as early as 1665, and has applications in music, electrical engineering, and celestial mechanics among many others.
LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
“Invenit et Fecit” Latin for “I invented it and I made it” has long been the motto inscribed on every F. P. Journe before it leaves the atelier of the famed genius and watchmaker François Paul Journe. With an eye on technical innovation for superior timekeeping, the brand has always sought to create watches that are both beautifully designed and technical works of art. In keeping with this ethos, the Chronomètre à Résonance has
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Not only a wonderful tribute to technical watchmaking, this now discontinued version of the Chronomètre à Résonance is also an extremely useful dual time watch with a superbly executed design. The combination of the 18 karat rose gold case with the rose gold dial and subtle grey accents efects a sumptuous aesthetic. This watch is furthermore presented with its full complement of original accessories and is preserved in wonderful condition.
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F.P. JOURNE Chronomètre à Résonance
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5. Business
43.
Jaeger-LeCoultre – A very fne and extremely rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with alarm function, bracelet, guarantee, and presentation boxes
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
1959
Reference No.
E857
Movement No.
1’389’462
Case No.
775’309
Model Name
Deep Sea Alarm
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. K815, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel LeCoultre bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel LeCoultre deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $60,000-120,000 €52,100-104,000 Accessories Accompanied by original guarantee, inner and outer box. Further accompanied by Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract from the Archives confrming the production of the present timepiece in 1959 with dial signed “LeCoultre”. Literature The reference E857 is discussed in Zaf Basha’s Jaeger-LeCoultre: A Guide for the Collector, p. 138.
There are diferent categories of vintage dive watches: those that are interesting, diferent, technical, aesthetic, rare or original and there are those that encompass all these attributes and more, making them grails amongst collectors. The present LeCoultre Deep Sea Alarm is undoubtedly a proud member of this exclusive club.
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Historically important in context and technically innovative for the time, the LeCoultre Deep Sea Alarm was the frst automatic diver’s wristwatch with an alarm function. Introduced in 1959, it was only produced until 1962, leading to a total of 1,061 examples manufactured. The frst dive watch from JaegerLeCoultre, and hot on the heels of the success of other early 1950s diver’s watches, the Deep Sea Alarm incorporated the “Memovox” alarm complication to set it apart. The alarm would inform the diver when it was time to return to the surface, rather than using a rotating bezel, making it the frst diving watch ever with alarm. Its extreme rarity and striking aesthetics has led the reference E857 to be highly prized by collectors. In fact, only a handful of Deep Sea Alarms have shown up at public auctions in the past years and even less have survived in such condition due to the harsh underwater environment they were used in. Illustrating the model’s importance, in 2011, Jaeger LeCoultre reintroduced this model in a limited edition dubbed Tribute to Deep Sea Alarm. It was produced in two iterations: one signed “LeCoultre” for the American market, and the other with dial signed “JaegerLeCoultre” for the European market. Scholarship shows that the LeCoultre version, such as the present lot, is the rarer variant. The present example, from 1959 - the frst year of production, is in pristine condition. Its fawless and beautifully aged dial, perfectly preserved case back engravings, and original bracelet attest to the exceptional condition of this watch. Further enhancing its appeal is the presence of its original guarantee and inner and outer presentation boxes. It’s amongst the very fnest examples of the Deep Sea Alarm to ever surface, and Phillips is proud to ofer it for the very frst time at public auction.
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JAEGER-LECOULTRE Deep Sea Alarm
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5. Business
44.
Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare white gold world time wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial in factory seal, with original ftted presentation box and certifcate of orgin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2013
Reference No.
5131G-010
Movement No.
5’732’849
Case No.
4’617’875
Model Name
World Time
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 HU, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $80,000-160,000 Σ €69,500-139,000 Accessories Accompanied by ftted box, Certifcate of Origin, hang tag, product literature and leather wallet, inner and outer box. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of this timepiece with cloisonné enamel dial depicting Europe-Asia in 2013 and its subsequent sale on July 11th, 2013.
The reference 5131 is Patek Philippe’s latest generation worldtime wristwatch, following a long line of exquisite world-time wristwatches from the famed manufacture, drawing its technical and aesthetic inspiration from the legendary pocket watches and wristwatches produced by the brand since the mid-20th century.
World-time watches were invented, as is the case with most innovations, out of necessity. With the advent of the industrial age came the means necessary to facilitate global trade and travel and, as a direct result, there was a need for timekeeping devices capable of tracking time in multiple locations. Between 1930 and 1931, Louis Cottier designed an ingenious, ultra-thin mechanism that simultaneously displayed the correct hours across the world’s time zones through a rotating 24-hour ring, in addition to the local time. The city of choice (local time zone) would be set at the 12 o’clock position with the hours/minutes hand set at local time. The design was superb in its simplicity, and remains in use until the present day. Extremely user friendly, the world-time display indicates the correct time in both hours and minutes, night and day, for nearly every time zone in the world simultaneously, while clearly indicating local time - all via a single dial. Patek Philippe has since then embraced the artistic opportunities worthy of such a poetic yet practical complication, and in many instances, combined it with one of their most exclusive métiers d’arts creations - cloisonné enamel. In this example, the vibrant cloisonné enamel center disc depicts the Europe, Africa, Asia, and Oceania in a wonderful array of blues, greens, browns, and yellows all outlined in fne gold. A well-balanced 40mm in diameter, this modern horological masterpiece marries the old and the new perfectly, and is sure to be the perfect companion for the well-traveled connoisseur. Fresh to the market, the present lot is complete with all accessories, still sealed and never been used before.
STOCK PHOTO FOR INFORMATION. NOT ACTUAL WATCH.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5131G “World Time Cloisonné Dial”
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5. Business
45.
Bulova – A very fne and historically important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch, presented to President Dwight D. Eisenhower by Bulova Watch Company Chairman, Arde Bulova
Manufacturer
Bulova
Year
1941
Case No.
214’797, underside of lug additionally stamped 797
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13 AH, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Gay Frères beads-of-rice bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant clasp, signed Gay Frères, stamped 4.61
Dimensions Signed
32mm Diameter Case, dial, and movement signed. Movement additionally stamped “BXW” for import to the United States and marked with an asterisk, dating the watch to 1941.
Estimate $10,000-15,000 €8,700-13,000 Accessories Accompanied by a signed provenance letter and a photo of General Dwight D. Eisenhower and his wife, Mamie Doud Eisenhower.
The story of Bulova fts securely within the archetypal American success story. Founded in 1875 by Bohemian immigrant, Joseph Bulova, the frm would become vital to the American economy, with important ties to the U.S. government. Indeed, Bulova would provide watches to NASA, the CIA, and the U.S. Navy. Arde Bulova, Joseph’s son, rose to the level of vice-president at Bulova in 1911 at age 26. It was Arde who shepherded Bulova through the turbulent times of the First and Second World Wars, as well as the Great Crash of 1929 and the subsequent Great Depression. Bulova became an ardent supporter of the American military and the government. Afer WWII, he established the Bulova Watchmaking School, which employed
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veterans, particularly those wounded or disabled. Arde Bulova’s brother-in-law, Henry D. Henshel, had served under General Omar Bradley in WWII, and Bradley would become Chairman of the Board from 1958 to 1973. Bradley and Dwight D. Eisenhower both graduated from the United States Military Academy at West Point in 1915, part of the class known as “the class the stars fell on”. As President, Eisenhower would go on to increase the tarif on imported watches, a move passionately supported by Bulova, an American watchmaking company. Though it is uncertain when the present watch was presented to Eisenhower, the caseback engraving is similar to others Bulova presented to luminaries of the time. How it lef Eisenhower’s possession, however, is documented in the accompanying provenance letter. First Lady Mamie Doud Eisenhower was a native of Boone, Iowa and her uncle, Joel Carlson was given the watch by Eisenhower during one of their frequent visits to Boone. The watch was then given to a local jeweler, Walter Donald Eckstein, for repair. Afer years of ownership, Eckstein ofered him a new Bulova wristwatch in exchange for the chronograph given to Eisenhower. The watch was sent to Bulova for cleaning in the 1970s and was subsequently returned to Eckstein with the note “no charge, courtesy of the factory.” The watch remained in the Eckstein family until this year. Aside from its important American provenance, the present chronograph is delightful, boasting a beautiful black glossy dial with gilt printing and luminous hands, ideal for a fve-star general. The movement, a Valjoux VZ ébauche fnished and signed by Bulova, is marked with the Bulova date stamp for 1941 – the year the United States entered the WWII. The current lot presents a unique opportunity to own a part of American watchmaking history.
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BULOVA “Presented To General Dwight D. Eisenhower”
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5. Business
46.
Rolex – A very fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with suspended logo and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1990
Reference No.
16520, inside caseback stamped 16500
Movement No.
42’100
Case No.
E’956’062
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona, “Floating Cosmograph”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78360, endlinks stamped no. 503
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped no. 09
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $20,000-30,000 €17,400-26,100
Literature For another example of a reference 16520 with black dial and suspended logo, please see The Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, pages 256 and 257.
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Reference 16520 is among Rolex’s most innovative models to date. Housing a heavily modifed Zenith-based caliber 4030 mechanism, the model was ftted with the frst automatic chronograph movement in the frm’s history. At the time of its launch in 1988, the watch garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers – much like its descendent, the reference 116500 would do in 2016. Two dial features make this early automatic Rolex Daytona even more collectible: the detached or “foating” Cosmograph designation seen in the frst two or three years of production, and the “inverted 6” on the hour totalizer. These details, inconsequential to the layman, are of utmost importance in the vintage Rolex collecting realm, adding rarity and desirability to an already popular reference. The present watch is also ofered in incredible condition, with truly no signs of wear. It has been preserved by the current owner in such immaculate condition as a testament to the watch’s historical importance and rarity.
26/10/18 09:22
ROLEX Ref. 16520 Cosmograph Daytona “Floating Cosmograph”
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5. Business
47. Patek Philippe – An extremely rare and highly attractive yellow gold single button chronograph wristwatch with hinged ofcer-style wire lug case and Breguet numerals
With only 27 examples known to the market, Patek Philippe’s single-button chronographs are amongst the rarest and most sought afer in the feld of complicated wristwatches. Regardless of brand, chronograph watches are one of the most useful and desirable of all timepieces on the market today. There is a palpable passion and attention to detail amongst connoisseurs and scholars when discussing their favorite chronographs - from the iconic case designs to the intricacies and architectures of revered movements. The frst chronograph watch is attributed to Louis Moinet, a French watchmaker, who in 1816 completed an instrument he called “Compteur de Tierces” or counter of thirds. His mechanism featured a high frequency movement with 60th seconds counter, along with elapsed seconds and minutes, all with a zero reset function. Over the ensuing years manufacturers developed new and innovative chronograph movements, and by the early 20th century the frst truly modern chronograph wristwatches were available.
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Maker xxxxxx Watch xxxxxx
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5. Business
47.
Patek Philippe – An extremely rare and highly attractive yellow gold single button chronograph wristwatch with hinged ofcer-style wire lug case and Breguet numerals
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1928
Movement No.
198’215
Case No.
292’634
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, Victorin Piguet, cal. 13”, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Modern 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate $300,000-500,000 Σ Δ €261,000-434,000 Accessories With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with painted black Breguet numerals in 1928 and its subsequent sale on April 6th, 1933. Literature A similar reference single button chronograph with ofcer case in yellow gold, bearing the case number 292’636 and the movement number 198’228 is catalogued in Patek Philippe Museum - Patek Philippe Watches: Volume II, pp. 259.
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The present single button ofcer-cased chronograph wristwatch by Patek Philippe is an extremely rare example of these earliest wristwatch chronographs, and one of only 16 single button chronographs known with a hinged “Ofcer” case. Manufactured in 1928 and sold in 1933, it is interesting to note the watch was sold during the Great Depression, to most probably an important client who could still aford the luxury of a Patek Philippe watch. Inside the gorgeous, doublehinged ofcer case ticks an immaculately fnished column wheel chronograph movement. The ébauche was made by Victorin Piguet & Co. of Le Sentier, which during the early 20th century was one of the world’s most important makers of high quality complicated movements - in particular, single button chronographs, split-seconds chronographs, minute repeating, and perpetual calendar watches. Patek Philippe’s production of single button chronographs ended in the late 1930s, not to be repeated until the 21st century. Fresh to the market, this single button chronograph is a charismatic and elegant watch that will delight collectors for its beauty, rarity, and overall excellent condition. The 34mm diameter “Ofcer” case with hinged back and cuvette is reminiscent of pocket watches, however its size, which was considered large for the period adds to the desirability of this early chronograph, and with its dramatic wire lugs, has a surprisingly modern aesthetic. The timelessly styled dial features gorgeous, enameled Breguet numerals that are confrmed on the extract from the archives. The chronograph wristwatch is one of the most alluring of timepieces, and the present single button model is an important and wonderful example from the early 20th century - looking as good today as it did 90 years afer its production.
26/10/18 09:23
PATEK PHILIPPE Single Pusher “Ofcier”
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5. Business
48.
Omega – An extremely rare, large, and well-preserved stainless steel anti-magnetic wristwatch
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1957
Reference No.
2914-1
Movement No.
15’330’563
Model Name
Railmaster
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 284, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega ladder bracelet, end links
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
stamped no. 6, additional leather strap
Estimate $15,000-30,000 €13,000-26,100 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming the production of the watch on September 6, 1957 and its subsequent delivery to Sweden. Literature A similar example, but of a reference 2914-2, is illustrated in John Goldberger’s Omega Sportswatches, pp. 86-87.
There is nothing quite like the appeal of the original, and the present lot is one of the best preserved examples of the very frst generation Omega Railmasters to appear on the market. Omega was experimenting with anti-magnetic wristwatches as early as 1924 and up until 1952, but it was not until the release of the Railmaster in 1957, alongside the frst iterations of the Seamaster and the Speedmaster, that the manufacture serially produced an anti-magnetic watch incorporating the culmination of their research and technical advancement. The Railmaster had relatively little success, in part due to its niche target market as well as strong competition from contemporaries like the Rolex Milgauss, the IWC Ingenieur reference 666, and the Blancpain Fify-Fathoms. This resulted in both lower production numbers and a narrower production run of only six years (1957-1963), making original Railmaster watches from this era especially rare.
The classic “broad arrow” hands, sharp, dagger-like luminous indexes, and beautiful matte black dial – all original and in superb condition in the present lot - is typical of the Railmaster, Seamaster and Speedmaster, though the Railmaster design is the simplest of them all, with no diving or tachymeter bezel. Its case measures a large 38 millimeters in diameter, thanks in part to the presence of a sof iron inner case. Inside ticks a noteworthy time-only movement with sweep seconds – the caliber 285, used only from 19571958. The inner case providing anti-magnetic protection of the movement, was made of “mu-metal” a nickel-iron alloy, acting as a Faraday cage. Early Railmasters such as the present lot did not feature caseback engravings, and the dial itself was 1.0 millimeter thick, as opposed to the 0.4 millimeter thickness found on later dials. Despite a lukewarm reception at its launch, modern revivals of the Railmaster remain popular, and a focus on antimagnetism remains central to Omega’s current oferings. In fact, it was this exact model, the 2914-1, that Omega used as the tomographical blueprint for the reissue of the 1957 Trilogy 60th anniversary limited edition piece, released in 2017 to much fanfare. Finding another in such original and appealing condition is no easy feat, rendering this a very rare opportunity for the collector of vintage watches to own a best-in-class example of a landmark reference from the storied Omega brand.
The frst Railmaster was manufactured with the ability to withstand between 900 and 1000 gauss, specifcally for those in professions required to withstand magnetic felds beyond what is considered normal. Many vintage watches in the modern age, however, can be afected by magnetic felds through innocent actions such as air travel and exposure to everyday electronics such as laptops. According to advertisements of the time, the Railmaster was targeted to “scientists, technicians, electricians, etc., who worked in close proximity to electrical currents.” Additionally, the Railmaster was water-resistant to 60 meters, or 200 feet.
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OMEGA Ref. 2914-1 Railmaster
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5. Business
49.
Rolex – A fne and attractive stainless steel anti-magnetic wristwatch with center seconds and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1968
Reference No.
1019
Movement No.
M’210’703
Case No.
2’012’709
Model Name
Milgauss
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1580, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Later stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped 78360, end links stamped 580, max overall length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 78360 and MA2
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $15,000-25,000 €13,000-21,700
Rolex has long been associated with “tool” wristwatches, which originally were designed with a functional purpose in mind, but today they have become icons amongst watch connoisseurs, both for their modern masculine design and innovative mechanical performance. From their collaboration with Pan American Airways and the GMT-Master dual time zone wristwatch, to the Submariner watch for professional deep-sea divers, these timepieces have captured the imagination of collectors and are today highly sought afer in the international market. The Milgauss, reference 1019, is another example
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of a Rolex sports model that today enjoys considerable prestige beyond its original intent, but is a watch that due to its niche target market, was not considered a commercial success. Originally released in 1954, the Milgauss reference 6541 was designed to meet the needs of scientists and engineers working in a magnetic environment. Rolex worked in collaboration with the Conseil Européen de Recherche Nucléaire, or CERN, to develop a watch that could withstand strong magnetic felds. The timepiece’s name derived from the Latin word “mille” for 1000, and “Gauss” the unit of measure for magnetism, it was a watch that could withstand 1000 Gauss of magnetism with no efect on timekeeping precision. Typical watches of the era could only withstand up to 70-90 gauss. Along with its companion piece the reference 6543, the two remained in production until the beginning of the 1960s when Rolex released the reference 1019 to replace these models. The reference 1019, likes its predecessors, featured a sof iron cage surrounding the movement. The new model was thinner and produced in stainless steel only. It remained in production until 1990. The present example is wellpreserved and checks all the boxes savvy collectors look for in vintage timepieces. The unpolished case has strong proportions and sharp clean lines with a smooth polished bezel. The silvered dial has luminous plots and luminous dashes at the 3-6-9, with the model name boldly printed in red below the Rolex signature. The present wristwatch has a sophisticated mid-century modern aesthetic and when compared to better known Rolex “tool” watches, ofers great value while being a pleasure to wear.
26/10/18 09:23
Maker ROLEX xxxxxx Ref. 1019xxxxxx Milgauss Watch
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5. Business
50.
Patek Philippe – A very rare and fne platinum and diamond-set wristwatch with date and original certifcate of origin, retailed by Beyer
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1963
Reference No.
3445
Movement No.
1’120’400
Case No.
313’512
Model Name
Monodate
Material
Platinum and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460M, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $40,000-80,000 Σ €34,700-69,500 Accessories With original Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin signed Chronometrie Beyer and dated August 30, 1963. Further accompanied by an Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with diamond numerals in 1963 and its subsequent sale on March 8th, 1963. Literature For other examples of the reference 3445 see Patek Philippe Wristwatches, Huber and Banbery, Vol. II, Second Edition, pp. 220-221.
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Patek Philippe’s reference 3445 was the brand’s frst serially produced automatic waterproof simple calendar wristwatch. Released in 1961 and manufactured until approximately 1981, it was a watch with a modern aesthetic that perfectly suited the well-dressed business man. Available in yellow, pink, and white gold, as well as platinum, the case measured 35mm in diameter and was ftted with the outstanding caliber 27-460M (Monodate) featuring a date window at the 3 position. Over the ensuing years, three series were made with the frst similar to the present watch, the 2nd series made in the late 1970s featuring a higher bezel to accommodate a sapphire crystal, and the third series featuring a sapphire display back. The model was also made with integrated bracelets, as well as with Stern Frères dials in silver, champagne, blue and later with grey dial with white Roman numerals. The present watch is a lovely and rare example with its platinum case and diamond-set numerals (heures brilliants). The exceptional original condition is further enhanced by the addition of the original Certifcate of Origin which is signed and dated by Chronometrie Beyer, Zürich, August 30, 1963. The majority of the reference 3445 were produced in gold, and the platinum and diamond dial models are very rare, with only 10 known to date. This wristwatch is a classic and has a versatility that makes it both a formal dress watch, but also a stunning everyday watch. For collectors of both simple and complicated timepieces, this unusual and highly attractive Monodate presents a rare opportunity.
26/10/18 09:24
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3445
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26/10/18 09:25
6. Eveningwear How to own an entrance
Those who think the words “black tie” on an invitation stand for sartorial constraint have a wonderful world of evening wardrobe to explore: for this is a stylistic genre that has evolved into a gloriously multifarious afair since the future King Edward VII, in 1865, commissioned a jacket in dark blue silk at Savile Row’s Henry Poole & Co, which went on to become named afer Tuxedo Park in Orange County, New York. (A separate theory credits the tux to wealthy tobacco heir Griswold Lorillard – but that’s another story.) Dinner jackets alone can involve a glorious number of permutations you won’t encounter down at the hire shop. Double-breasted coats work just as well as single-breasted; midnight blue is now a widely accepted alternative to the more traditional black, but white can look literally dazzling, and bolder faneurs are ofen seen in mauve, tobacco or even Tartan. Velvet might easily make way for wool, meanwhile, and peak or shawl lapels are both acceptable (although notch is a no-no). Your bow-tie can be smooth silk or grosgrain, your shirt cotton or linen (with a whole range of diferent bib fronts on ofer), while your shoes can adhere to a number of classic formal styles (although some men with more foppish inclinations are now – as seen here - opting for velvet slip-ons). So, time to throw of the shackles – this a rich and rewarding area of sartorial exploration. As Dean Martin once put it: “In regular clothes, I’m a nobody. In a tuxedo, I’m a star.”
Lots 51 to 60 Two clichés summarize evening wristwatch wear: one, the devil is in the details, and two, rules are made to be broken – especially in this ever more casual world. Whether attending a high-profle, black tie wedding, or a New York charity gala, an appropriately glamorous watch is necessary to complement the outft and properly fête the occasion. Classic, slim profles in precious metals and small case diameters used to dominate the wrists of the tuxedo-clad; nowadays, you are just as likely to see a 44mm complicated masterpiece by Jaeger-LeCoultre as you are to spot a unique platinum Patek Philippe with diamond-set dial and architectural lugs. If it fts under the cuf, it works – and if there are diamonds on the dial, all the better.
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6. Eveningwear
Mr Porter’s look
Lot 60 Cartier. Tank Americaine reference 1734, platinum, circa 1998
“Menswear,” according to American fashion titan Tom Ford, “is a detail-driven business.” His label certainly lives up to that axiom here with a black, slim-ft, satin-lapelled ‘Shelton’ tux lovingly made in Italy. “I think a suit should make you feel younger, trimmer,” Ford has also remarked, which goes a long way to explaining the svelte silhouette here. “It should make your shoulders look broad and your waist and hips look smaller.” The former Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent creative director’s eponymous brand is also behind the cummerbund seen here, as well as the ensemble’s quirky piece de resistance: the ‘Leeds’ chain-trimmed velvet loafers which, paired with a Brunello Cucinelli bow tie and Deakin & Francis enamelled 18-karat gold diamond cufinks, make for a look which is understatedly dashing but with a splash of famboyance. Such an approach’s linchpin is a dress shirt with gently embellished bib-front, here provided by Salle Privée, an ultra-modernist brand launched in October 2016 by Dutch designer Patrick Munsters.
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Suit by TOM FORD Shirt by SALLE PRIVÉE Bow tie by Brunello Cucinelli Loafers by TOM FORD Cummerbund by TOM FORD Cufinks by TOM FORD
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The Rake’s look
Lot 59 Patek Philippe. Reference 1589 with diamondset dial, platinum, circa 1950
White, wool, one-button, shawl collar, silk covered buttons… This tux is a neat demonstration of the “carte blanche” nature of eveningwear, courtesy of the sartorial wizardry the style intelligentsia have come to expect at No.1 Savile Row: home to Gieves & Hawkes. Turnbull & Asser again provide the shirt here – as they have for many of 007’s nocturnal outings – while the bow-tie is from Cifonelli (a Parisian tailor which has produced a good number of immaculately silhouetted Tuxedos of its own over the decades). Birmingham specialists Deakin & Francis are on cufink duty, this pair in sterling silver with pearl inlays bringing a subtle hint of colour to the whole efect. A white pocket square from London purveyors of classic British elegance Drakes is another quiet nod to restrained elegance, while the black tie itself is twinned, chromatically, with a pair of black patent leather oxfords boasting that distinctive last profle of George Cleverley.
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Suit by Gieves & Hawkes Shirt by Turnbull & Asser Bow tie by Cifonelli Shoes by George Cleverley Cufinks by Deakin & Francis
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6. Eveningwear
51.
Patek Philippe – A rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with Breguet numerals
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1942
Reference No.
96
Movement No.
921’987
Case No.
397’636
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-120 PS, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
30.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $4,000-7,000 Σ €3,500-6,100 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1942 with Breguet numerals and its subsequent sale on October 16, 1942.
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The reference 96 is a cornerstone of Patek Philippe production, and the frst example of what is today possibly the most elegant and distinguished line of dress watches: the Calatrava collection. Launched in 1932, it was not only the frst Calatrava, but also one of the Patek Philippe’s frst models to feature a reference number (the reference system was indeed introduced in 1932). The reference 96 was also amongst Patek Philippe’s frst models to apply the Bauhaus design principle of “form follows function”. Indeed there are no additional and unnecessary adornments or decorations. The piece achieves its powerful impact thanks to clean, simple, and elegant lines. By many, reference 96 is considered the model against which every and all dress watches should be compared – a true benchmark for the category. Throughout its production cycle, many variations were made, with a diverse range of dials that collectors even today enjoy discovering. The present example is that of the second series, produced between 1935 and 1953, ftted with a caliber 12-120 movement. Especially sought afer are those with Breguet numerals such as the present example, which also bears a beautiful and delicate pair of spade-shaped hands, creating a uniquely elegant dial layout.
26/10/18 09:26
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 96 Calatrava “Breguet Numerals”
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6. Eveningwear
52.
Rolex – An exceptional and rare yellow gold and diamond-set Chevrolet 75th Anniversary wristwatch with date, bracelet, original guarantee, presentation box, hang tags, and related material
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1986
Reference No.
16018
Movement No.
1’759’954
Case No.
9’498’694, inside case back further stamped with case number and 16000
Model Name
Datejust, “Chevrolet”
Material
18K yellow gold and diamond-set
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, end links stamped no. 49
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 8386
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $8,000-12,000 €6,900-10,400 Accessories Accompanied by original guarantee dated April 1987 and stamped Chev-Pontiac Canada GRP, Rolex wood and leather presentation box with “Diamond Jubliee Award 1911-1986” medallion, hang tags, two “Chevrolet 75, 1911-1986” pins, “The Chevrolet Story” pamphlet and Rolex Japan service record and International Service Guarantee dated 2016/11/29.
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The present Chevrolet DateJust celebrates the prestigious car manufacturer’s 75th anniversary in 1986, and was awarded to dealers with excellent sales records. The Chevrolet Motor Company was established in Detroit Michigan in 1911 by Swiss race car driver and engineer Louis Chevrolet along with partners William C. Durant, William Little, James H. Whiting and Edwin R. Campbell. By 1919 the frm had factories throughout the US and in Oshawa Canada, as well as introduced trucks in their line-up. The commercial jingle “See the U. S. A. in Your Chevrolet” became a popular and familiar tune in the 1950s and 60s, and demonstrated the close connection between the maker and the American public. Today, Chevrolet is an international brand with sales across the global from Asia and Europe to the Americas. In virtually unused condition, the present watch is a lovely example of these rare timepieces and comes with original guarantee stamped APR 1987 Chev-Pontiac Canada GRP, wood and leather presentation box with “Diamond Jubilee 1911-1986 Award” emblem, hang tags, two “Chevrolet 75 19111986” pins, “The Chevrolet Story” brochure, product literature and Rolex service papers. The original dial features the famed Chevy “bowtie” logo design with diamond-set numerals and as the historical brochure points out the frm’s Diamond Jubilee celebrates strength and endurance, similar qualities found in a diamond. The case back is further engraved “Diamond Jubilee 1911-1986 Award”. The Rolex DateJust is one most iconic models, with a history reaching back to the 1940s, this present Jubilee timepiece is an extraordinary example of the model and with its connection to another historic brand, it makes a wonderful addition to a collection of fne Rolex watches.
26/10/18 09:27
ROLEX Ref. 16018 Datejust “Chevrolet”
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6. Eveningwear
53.
Rolex – A very fne and highly attractive platinum and diamond-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds, blue lacquer dégradé dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1998
Reference No.
18026, inside caseback stamped 2096
Movement No.
7’994’985
Case No.
A656056
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum Rolex President bracelet, end links stamped 55B, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Rolex concealed deployant clasp, stamped no. 8385
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $20,000-30,000 O €17,400-26,100
Literature For a similar example of a Rolex Day-Date with diamonds and blue dégradé dial but with a futed bezel, please see Pucci Papaleo Editore’s Day-Date: The Presidential Rolex, pp. 308-309.
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Since its introduction in 1956, the Day-Date has continued to embody the Rolex ethos of luxury and power. Myriad combinations were made possible by the variety of dials and case materials, the innumerable bezel patterns, and the diferent bracelet assortments. With the Day-Date, Rolex was able to ofer almost bespoke wristwatches that would excite their global clientele – as simple or as lavish as a customer could desire. The Day-Date is additionally notable for its ability to grace the wrist of any gender due not only to its perfectly balanced case size but also an uncanny knack of taking on the persona of its wearer. Whether worn as an embellishment, status symbol, or versatile daily companion, the Day-Date is instantly recognizable and much beloved. The current watch possesses a number of superlative features: an unpolished case in the noblest of metals, an attractive and sleek smooth bezel, double quick-set function for the day and the date, and beautiful dégradé blue dial set with brilliant-cut and baguette diamonds. The latter element truly sets this piece apart. The futed bezel version featured in Pucci Papaleo Editore’s Day-Date: The Presidential Rolex is nicknamed “Poseidon”, and it is easy to see how the blue centripetal color gradient would inspire notions of the Greek God of the seas. Starting at a dark navy – almost black – at the outermost parts of the lacquered dial and smoothly transitioning to a vibrant ocean blue, the dégradé (or “vignette”) efect is quite arresting. Paired with perfectly aged luminous plots and vibrant diamonds at the hour markers, this mid-1990s DayDate is elegant opulence at its best.
26/10/18 09:28
ROLEX Ref. 18026 Day-Date “Dégradé Blue”
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6. Eveningwear
54.
Patek Philippe – A very fne, attractive, and rare white gold skeletonized wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2010
Reference No.
5180/1
Movement No.
3’719’033
Case No.
4’487’436
Model Name
Squelette
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 SQU, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe double deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, movement and claps signed.
Estimate $30,000-50,000 €26,100-43,400 Accessories With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 2010 and its subsequent sale on June 14th, 2010.
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Skeletonized watches have always been a favorite amongst collectors since the movement is readily available to view by the wearer. Watches are mechanical instruments that have an operational purpose, which is to tell time; however, for watch enthusiast, the movement is the heart of the watch and the intricacy of its components the source of endless fascination. Patek Philippe’s reference 5180, the Squelette, is a fully skeletonized wristwatch with superbly hand-engraved and chased bridges and movement plates, seen between two large sapphire crystals, that have an artistic fair. Fitted with a micro-rotor, the caliber 240 SQU is an ultra-thin movement that adds to the overall elegance and clean lines of the reference 5180. The reference was introduced by Patek Philippe in 2008 and met with great enthusiasm from the collecting community. The large case, measuring a substantial 39 mm in diameter, is highly attractive on the wrist and with the 18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet, provides an elegant and sophisticated aesthetic that is suitable for both day and night. The reference was so admired that Patek Philippe would ofer a unique titanium version in 2009 for the charity Children Action auction, selling for 520,000CHF. The present example makes a glamorous addition to a collection of modern Patek Philippe watches ofering diversity, unparalleled crafsmanship, and quality.
26/10/18 09:28
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5180G Squelette
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6. Eveningwear
55.
Jaeger-LeCoultre – A very rare and attractive, limited edition, semi-skeletonized platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with multi-axis spherical tourbillon, retrograde date, month and leap year indication, eight day power reserve and equation of time, with certifcate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
Circa 2004
Reference No.
149.6.07.S
Case No.
No. 33 of 75
Model Name
Gyrotourbillon 1
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 177, 117 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Jaeger-LeCoutre deployant clasp
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $100,000-200,000 Σ O €86,900-174,000 Accessories With Jaeger-LeCoultre unsigned and undated Guarantee Certifcate, undated Certifcate of Authenticity confrming the present lot is number 33 of 75 pieces, instruction manual, wooden JaegerLeCoultre presentation box, Gyrotourbillon 1 book and loupe
Launched in 2004 Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Gyrotourbillon 1 wristwatch is a stellar complication timepiece developed by master watchmaker Eric Coudray and designer Magali Metrailler. The caliber 177 is composed of 679 individual parts, 117 jewels and features an array of complications including a multi-axis tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date sector and month and leap year indication. In addition, its movement provides eight days of power reserve and features
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a “running” equation of time indication that displays the diference between solar time and mean time. Solar time is indicated by the minute hand tipped with a small sun, which sometimes runs ahead or behind the minute hand. Both hands are synchronized four times a year. With its introduction, it allowed the Jaeger-LeCoultre to become not just a haute horlogerie brand, it elevated the brand into a haute horlogerie movement maker. At the time of its release, there were few if any multi-axis tourbillon watches ofered on the market. This amazing technical advancement was constructed of two carriages on two axis and diferent timing, with the external rotating every 60 seconds and the internal every 24 seconds, completing 2.5 turns per minute, thus allowing for correction of gravitational errors in all positions. The speed and continuous motion of the spherical tourbillon display will absolutely mesmerize and fascinate its wearer. The present example, no. 33 in the series of just 75 timepieces, is in excellent condition and accompanied with its original certifcate of origin and presentation box. When it was frst released, the Gyrotourbillon 1 was the most complicated watch made by Jaeger-LeCoultre. It pushed the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking and opened the door for a new era of complicated timepieces that are not only visually stimulating, but also technical marvels that are a joy to contemplate.
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JAEGER-LECOULTRE “Gyrotourbillon 1”
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6. Eveningwear
56.
Rolex – A very rare and highly attractive stainless steel and pink gold chronograph wristwatch with triple calendar and tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1947
Reference No.
4768
Case No.
584’515
Model Name
Dato Compax
Material
Stainless steel and pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72C, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 Σ €17,400-34,700 Accessories With Rolex presentation box Literature For other examples of the reference 4768 see I Cronograf Rolex La Leggenda, Pucci Papaleo Editore, pp. 366-371.
While Rolex is most ofen recognized for their tool watches like the Submariner, GMT-Master and Explorer models, their mid-20th century production included elegant and innovative gentlemens’ timepieces that today are highly desirable and sought afer for their rarity and charm. The reference 4768 was the brand’s frst antimagnetic
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triple calendar chronograph wristwatch, and while ofcially known as the “Dato Compax” its Oyster-cased counterpart became associated with the famed French Olympic skier and Rolex Board of Directors member Jean-Claude Killy. In total, fve Dato Compax models were manufactured with the reference 4768 being the only one made with a non-Oyster case. Released in 1947, research indicates only 220 examples of the reference were produced, and were available in stainless steel, yellow and pink gold, as well as two tone models like the present watch in stainless steel with either a yellow or pink gold bezel. Fresh-to-the-market from the family of the original owner, this reference 4768 is in excellent condition with both the case and dial in original and untouched condition. The lovely two-tone dial with pink and silvered date chapter ring is completely original and well preserved, having been spared needless cleaning, with the case remaining unpolished. While the watch was lovingly worn and has age consistent with a timepiece that is now 70 years old, it is a treasure to fnd an such a clean and original example, and it is further enhanced with a Valjoux 72C-based movement, one of the most reliable known. Today’s savvy collectors are always looking for rare watches that not only add historical value to their collection, but also pieces that make a statement, and the reference 4768 is a mid-century watch that demonstrates the design strengths of the Rolex brand.
26/10/18 09:29
ROLEX Ref. 4768 “Dato-Compax”
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26/10/18 09:29
6. Eveningwear
57.
Breguet – An extremely fne and very rare platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with power reserve and equation of time
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
Circa 2000
Reference No.
3470
Movement No.
6959
Case No.
1385
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 502, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Breguet clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $20,000-30,000 O €17,400-26,100
Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) was considered one of the leading watch makers of his day, and even in the modern era he is widely considered one of the greatest horologists of all times. His technical skills and innovations changed the world of horology with inventions such as the tourbillon, used to counter the efects of gravity on the movement, or the Montre à tact, a watch constructed with knobs to the outside of the case, so a discreet gentleman could tell time without looking at his watch and appearing impolite. The frm remained in the family’s control until
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the late 19th century when Breguet’s great-grandson Louis Antoine (1851-1882) passed away. He hired English watchmaker Edward Brown to manage the Paris factory and upon Antoine’s death, Brown retained control of the frm. Following Brown’s death in 1895, his sons continued to lead the brand, however it changed hands again in the 1970s and 1980s, with the Swatch Group fnally acquiring it in 1999. Over the last 100 years, Breguet has remained true to the tenets of their founder, producing watches that not only have a classic appeal, but are technical marvels. The present platinum perpetual calendar equation of time wristwatch is a superb modern timepiece featuring some of the most prestigious complications the brand specializes in today. The dial, with its equation of time indication, simultaneously displays both “true” solar time as defned by nature and the “mean” solar time as recognized by man – refecting the true position of the sun versus mean time standardized for civilians. An impressive mechanical microcomputer with exquisite fnishing throughout, the equation of time mechanism is linked to the perpetual calendar complication, making the equation of time indication accurate to the exact day. Preserved in excellent overall condition, this reference 3470 is a highly complicated watch that exudes elegance, rooted to an earlier time that today many have forgotten - a period of state-of-the-art mechanical technology from a non-computerized era.
26/10/18 09:30
BREGUET Ref. 3470 “Equation of Time”
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6. Eveningwear
58. Patek Philippe – A possibly unique and important platinum minute repeating wristwatch with blue soleil dial, certifcate of origin and presentation box, factory double sealed
Patek Philippe’s reference 5078 is a stunning modern masterpiece featuring one of the most complex and desirable of all high complications – a minute repeater. Launched in 2008, it is the brand’s 21st century iteration of the striking wristwatch, and while it has a contemporary look and feel it’s frmly rooted in horology’s traditional past. Initially ofered in platinum with a choice of white enamel dial or black lacquered dial, or 18K pink gold with white enamel dial, the reference is today ofered by the brand only in 18K white gold. Powered by a self-winding movement with microrotor, its caliber R 27 PS is comprised of 342 parts and measures a very slim 5.05 mm in thickness. Winding is accomplished via a beautifully engraved micro-rotor, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, and superbly integrated into the movement to permit an unobstructed view of the repeater’s hammers and gongs. This mechanical marvel is housed within a tastefully sized 38 mm diameter case designed with so many of the classic attributes found in Patek Philippe’s most prestigious, complicated vintage watches such as a wide concave bezel and futed and elongated lugs - both reminiscent of the iconic reference 2499 perpetual calendar chronograph. The now-discontinued platinum and rose gold versions of the reference were ftted with dials featuring slender and elegant Roman numeral hour markers and feuille hands, noted with a -001 or a -010 extension to the reference number if enamel or black lacquer, respectively.
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6. Eveningwear
58.
Patek Philippe – A possibly unique and important platinum minute repeating wristwatch with blue soleil dial, certifcate of origin and presentation box, factory double sealed
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2009
Reference No.
5078P-013
Movement No.
1’904’258
Case No.
4’493’547
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. R 27 PS AIG 2
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $250,000-500,000 Σ €217,000-434,000 Accessories With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated November 14th, 2009 and signed by the Patek Philippe salon, London, ftted wooden Patek Philippe presentation box, box key, leather portfolio with glossy photograph, product literature and outer packaging. Further accompanied by a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch striking on two gongs and with blue sunburst dial in 2009 and its subsequent November 14th, 2009.
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The present watch is made extraordinary thanks to the special and possibly unique dial it was born with. Likely custom-ordered by a very important client, it is the only known version of this reference to feature a blue “soleil” dial. Accordingly, it is designated on the certifcate of origin as a reference 5078P-013 – the frst and only known example of the reference to appear with this dial variation. Although still in its factory seal, the brilliance and depth of the sunburst-grained dial can still be seen, with a deep and powerful blue main dial that contrasts elegantly with the slightly darker blue seconds chapter at 6 o’clock. The hands, hour markers, and seconds and minutes graphics are painted in pure white – a superb complement to the polished platinum case and adding vibrancy to the blue dial. Preserved in brand new condition still in its factory double sealed box, the present watch comes complete with all of its paperwork including the certifcate of origin, a leather folio with portrait and model overview, second caseback, and presentation box. The uniqueness of its dial, its pristine state of preservation, and the presence of all of its original accessories, make this one of the most important examples of the reference to ever appear on the market. A trophy watch for a collection of the world’s fnest watches.
26/10/18 09:30
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5078P “Minute Repeater”
STOCK PHOTO FOR INFORMATION. NOT ACTUAL WATCH.
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6. Eveningwear
59.
Patek Philippe – A possibly unique, oversized, and extremely well-preserved platinum and diamond-set wristwatch
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1950
Reference No.
1589
Movement No.
966’270
Case No.
302’848
Material
Platinum and diamonds
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-120, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $50,000-100,000 Σ €43,400-86,900 Accessories With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with diamond-set dial in 1950 and its subsequent sale on October 30th, 1950.
The present wristwatch is a remarkable fnd, being the frst known platinum example of a reference 1589 to ever appear on the market. Patek Philippe introduced the reference 1589 in 1944 when gentlemen’s dress watches were typically manufactured with a 32-34mm diameter cases. The reference featured an Antoine Gerlach-fabricated
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oversized case measuring 36mm in diameter, however it had an even bigger look and feel thanks to its extended attached lugs. Production was limited to approximately eight years and made in two series, the frst with the caliber 12-120 such as the present watch, followed by the caliber 12-400. The Stern Frères dials were typically silvered or pink with Roman or square hour markers and outer pearled minute dots, making this diamond-set dial extremely rare. Research indicates Patek Philippe made the majority in either yellow or pink gold, with approximately 43 known examples to the market, and the present timepiece the frst known in platinum. In exceptionally well-preserved condition, this watch will delight all watch enthusiasts. The platinum case and diamond-set hour markers have an elegant and luxurious appeal. The large size case was avant-garde for the mid-20th century, but today feels contemporary and modern. It is a wristwatch with a cool aesthetic that perfectly matches an evening out, or a casual weekend in the country. Today, diamond-set watches are ofen over the top, and it is a pleasure to fnd a vintage, watch tastefully set with diamonds that is understated watch and perfectly suited to the 21st century. This a very rare opportunity for collectors obtain a possibly unique watch whose rarity is matched by its exceptional condition.
26/10/18 09:31
PATEK PHILIPPE Re. 1589 Platinum
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6. Eveningwear
60.
Cartier – A very fne and attractive oversized platinum rectangular-shaped wristwatch accompanied with original guarantee
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1998
Reference No.
1734
Case No.
GC11732
Model Name
Tank Americaine
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 430 MC, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Cartier buckle
Dimensions
45mm x 26.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $6,000-8,000 Σ O €5,200-6,900 Accessories With Cartier International Warranty dated July 15, 1998 and signed Concessionnaire Agrée, Modena, 2013 Cartier International Service invoice, red leather Cartier folder and product literature
Cartier has always been associated with exquisite crafsmanship and elegant designs that have for a century attracted royalty, movie stars, sports celebrities and everyday clientele. Their jewelry and timepieces became recognizable in the market, and one of the most
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innovative wristwatches was the “Tank”. Introduced in 1917, the design took its inspiration from the top view of the very frst Renault military tank vehicle deployed that same year. Today, it has become an icon in haute horlogerie for its classic design and wearability. Over the ensuing 100 years, the basic foundation of the watch has remained the same, but with changing fashions and styles, so too did the Tank watch. In 1921, Cartier introduced the Tank Cintrée a long slender wristwatch with gracefully arching case that measured a dramatic 46mm long by 23mm wide. The design broke the mold of the typical round watch. In 1989, Cartier updated the elegance of the Cintrée with the release of the Tank Americaine, a modern wristwatch with stronger, more masculine dimensions than the Cintrée. A milestone in the evolution of the Tank, the Tank Americaine was the very frst curved Tank watch from Cartier to be designed with a water resistant case. The present example is in excellent overall condition with a crisp case and its original factory fnish. The white guilloché dial displays Cartier’s traditional Roman numerals and secret signature at the 7 o’clock. Accompanied by its original international guarantee certifcate, this is an exciting opportunity for all collectors to own a noteworthy variant of the famous Tank that has been worn by kings, queens, and the Hollywood elite for decades.
26/10/18 09:31
CARTIER Tank Americaine
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26/10/18 09:32
7. Hamptons How to make a stylish getaway
Clearly, your choice of clothes for your annual break is hugely impacted by your destination – and during a short break in The Hamptons or Martha’s Vineyard, preppy stripes and earthy linens are de rigueur. As is always the case when travelling any distance, items that pack well – or to be more specifc, unpack well – always hold a draw, hence stylish men’s ongoing gratitude to pioneers of technical fabrics such as Turnbull & Asser (whose creaseless ‘Journey’ shirts were a huge hit in the summer). We have our ovine friends to thank, meanwhile, for Merino wool, a fabric whose ‘crimp’ — meaning the regularity of bends in a single strand, which makes the cloth rubbery, spongy and absorbent – is such that it has excellent ‘bouncebackability’ when you remove it from your case, meaning less need to use the hotel shower as a makeshif steamer. Perhaps the trickiest aspect of picking out clothes for a holiday is the fact that you’re choosing diferent ensembles for each diferent segment of the day - casual breakfast-time ensembles; looks for formal dining and for daytime sauntering; night-wear, including a dressing gown for cold climates – all of which must ft inside a relatively small container. This makes versatile clothing (non-patterned blazers in neutral earthy colours; organic-hued shorts which go with an assortment of torso-wear; linen shirts in a range of unobtrusive colours) a sage choice. If you can pick out a range of garments which all, without exception, go with everything else, you’ve nailed it.
Lots 61–70 The Hamptons is more than a luxury destination for those seeking to see and be seen, or city-dwellers looking to escape the fetid heat of the asphalt jungle. The area is full of history dating back to the pre-colonial era, and has been considered an artist’s haven since Jackson Pollock set up his studio in East Hampton during the 1940s. Andy Warhol, Willem de Kooning, Robert Motherwell, and Mark Rothko also spent time in the Hamptons, and along with them came their benefactors, muses, and supporters. Lavish lawn parties require quite separate apparel than evening beach bonfres, and the watches of the Hamptons are suitably diverse. A shimmering green-lacquered ‘Stella’ dial Day-Date captures the sunlight during the day, while the glossy dials and gilt printing of a boldly, masculine oversized IWC Portugieser or classic vintage Rolex Submariner are wonderfully illuminated by an evening’s bonfre.
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Maker xxxxxx Watch xxxxxx
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7. Hamptons
Mr Porter’s look
Lot 68 Patek Philippe. Reference 2526 with enamel dial, 18K yellow gold, circa 1955
For many, chunky patterned cardigans are as much a Ralph Lauren staple as the famous polo: this rugged shawl-collar example from RRL comes in thick wool blended with silk and linen, and is emblazoned with a Western-inspired eagle intarsia. Some simple but efective layering lies beneath, in the form of a grey tee from James Perse (a worthy brand from which to grab a stash of these handy garments), made in Japan from lightweight cotton blended with handle-sofening silk. Parisian company Hartford provide the cotton-twill drawstring shorts; the aptly paired leather boat shoes and belt come from Los Angeles footwear brand Yuketen and Parma outft Anderson’s respectively; recently resuscitated London eyewear brand Kirk Originals (a bespoke outlet beloved of Mick Jagger, Oasis and Paul Weller) can be credited with those ‘Harvey’ tortoiseshell acetate sunglasses, which are based on those worn by Cary Grant in North by Northwest.
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Cardigan by RRL T-shirt by James Perse Shorts by Hartford Shoes by Yuketen Sunglasses by Kirk Originals
29/10/18 18:17
The Rake’s look
Lot 64 Audemars Piguet. Royal Oak Ofshore Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, titanium, circa 2007
As mentioned in the Summertime section, unstructured tailoring was originally invented by Neapolitan tailoring masters to cater for those wanting to be both dapper and comfortable in balmier climes without compromise: and what works on the Gulf of Naples works just as well across The Pond in America’s most fashionable minibreak destinations. Enter, stage lef, this navy, unlined jacket (note the front patch pockets – another classic Neapolitan trait), crafed from wrinkle-free virgin wool, with a 3-roll-2 closure and unobtrusive notch lapels. Rubinacci are the style gurus behind it, and can also take credit for the beige wool trousers (note the curtained, split waistband, detail bufs). So far so cautiously tasteful: but a whif of sartorial derring-do is added by a Fumagalli tie with beige-andgrey diagonal stripes (seasoned style connoisseurs will appreciate the fve- fold construction and hand-rolled edges) and Manebi Suede Espadrilles. Product name? ‘Hamptons’, aptly enough.
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Jacket by Rubinacci Shirt by Marol Tie by Fumagalli 1891 Espadrilles by Manei
29/10/18 18:18
7. Hamptons
61.
Rolex – A rare and very attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with green lacquer “Stella” dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1977
Reference No.
1803
Movement No.
DD258’491
Case No.
5’056’042
Model Name
Day-Date, “Stella”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold-plated Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, buckle signed.
Estimate $12,000-18,000 €10,400-15,600
Since its inception in 1956, the Day-Date has been associated with luxury, privilege, and success. It has adorned the wrists of presidents and dignitaries, been worn in board rooms and galas around the world, always faithfully serving the men and women who chose to wear it. The Day-Date is still in production today, and many vintage varieties have acquired their own collecting categories, including those ftted with so-called “Stella” dials, a gleaming and colorful lacquered dial style produced by Rolex in the 1970s and 1980s. Today, scholars infer that its name derives from the dazzling multi-layered lacquer coating, which displays vibrant and rich colors that glimmer like stars, hence the name “Stella”. While the horological community hypothesizes that the model was originally intended for import to the Middle Eastern market, “Stella” dials have gained international recognition due to their many vividly colored iterations and delicate appearance. This green “Stella” Day-Date is preserved in remarkable condition. The dial is pristine, and the lacquer exhibits an exquisitely rich leafy green tone. The luminous hour markers have aged evenly with the hands taking on a warm yellow patina, and each luminous dot is perfectly preserved. Most impressive are the edges around the day and date apertures, as the lacquer is smoothly and precisely applied, attesting to Rolex’s stringent standards in quality.
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26/10/18 09:33
ROLEX Ref. 1803 Day-Date “Green Stella”
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26/10/18 09:34
7. Hamptons
62.
Omega – A very fne and rare yellow gold wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1948
Reference No.
OT 2398
Movement No.
10’763’008
Case No.
10’723’497
Model Name
Fantasy
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 30.01 RA PC, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Modern 18K yellow gold-plated Omega buckle
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $30,000-50,000 Σ €26,100-43,400 Accessories With Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with cloisonné enamel dial in 1948 and its subsequent sale on March 31, 1948 and delivered to Switzerland. Literature A similar example with “Fantasy” cloisonné dial is illustrated in John Goldberger’s Omega Watches, p. 194.
Renowned for the iconic Speedmaster, the frst watch worn on the lunar surface in 1969, Omega has a storied history in horology, and the present timepiece with cloisonné enamel dial is part of a rare and small series of
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watches produced between 1946 and 1956 refecting their commitment to workmanship and tradition. With the end of World War II, Omega ofered these luxurious watches featuring extraordinary cloisonné dials with motifs such as landscapes, mythical creatures, maps of the world and like the present “Fantasy” watch, with stylized foral designs. This abstract pattern is so rooted in their history, Omega chose to recreate it in 1994 when they released a limited edition timepiece (100 pieces) with cloisonné dial to commemorate their 100th anniversary. These rare watches combine form and function with beauty – a robust self-winding movement and the dial a veritable work of art with vibrant colors and ornate worksmanship. Cloisonné enameling is an ancient technique used throughout history to decorate jewelry, religious objects, and vessels. The intricate work begins with the enameller laying out the design with fne gold wire, then adding successive layers of enamel to each region within the wire design to achieve the desired color, then fred in a kiln. The present example from the grandson of the original owner is in lovely original condition and remains unpolished. The case is well preserved, showing signs of careful wear and retaining strong proportions and its original factory fnish. In the post war era when so many brands developed utilitarian tool watches, the Omega Fantasy is a rare gem and beautiful timepiece that many will seek out, but few will ultimately own.
26/10/18 09:34
OMEGA “Floral Cloisonné”
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7. Hamptons
63.
IWC – A historically important, very rare, and remarkably crisp oversized wristwatch with lacquered black gilt dial and luminous indexes
Manufacturer
IWC
Year
1942
Reference No.
325
Movement No.
931’986
Case No.
1’072’461
Model Name
Portugieser
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 74, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $80,000-120,000 O €69,500-104,000
The rarity and historical signifcance of the present lot should be enough to capture the heart of any collector, but these elements are further enhanced by this Portugieser’s exceptional case condition and beautiful glossy gilt dial with luminous Arabic indexes. The dial boasts a vivid black lacquered surface – completely original – with perfectly intact luminous hour markers and stunning silver gilt printing. The case is sharp with its punçao hallmark strikingly crisp and deep. Phillips is proud to ofer this remarkable example for the frst time at public auction, without a doubt one of the fnest and most important Portugiesers to ever appear on the market. Phillips wishes to sincerely thank Dr. David Seyfer, IWC Museum Curator, for his invaluable assistance in researching the present lot.
The origins of the IWC Portugieser are shrouded in myth, but it is widely agreed by scholars that in 1939, Portuguese watch importers – a Mr. Rodrigues and a Mr. Teixeira – made a special request of IWC: to create an oversized wristwatch with a highly accurate movement. IWC took up the challenge, utilizing frst their pocket watch caliber 74, a manually wound savonette movement with subsidiary seconds and a 54-hour power reserve and 42mm case diameter. The frst reference 325s, now dubbed the “Portugieser” were shipped to Lisbon in 1942 to Mr. Rodrigues. Indeed, the present lot was one of these frst Portugiesers fulflling Rodrigues’ request of three years earlier, having been shipped to Lisbon on June 17th, 1942 and confrmed by the manufacture as being a part of the very frst shipment. Further evidence is provided by a small but crisp armadillo hallmark on the lower right lug – the Portuguese import mark for non-precious metals. Each hallmark was applied by hand – this is typically called a punçao – when the watch passed through the Portuguese Assay ofce, and accounts for some variation in the location where the punçao has been placed. According to IWC, only 304 examples of the reference 325 were produced with the caliber 74, with 690 examples in total produced between 1939 and 1981. Over these 42 years, only 141 actual Portugiesers were imported to Portugal. Though prized by collectors today because of their rarity, size, and history, the reference 325 did not enjoy acclaim during its actual production. It is integral to the DNA of the IWC brand and retains a timeless aesthetic since its introduction in 1942, thanks to the curious inquiry of Señors Rodrigues and Teixiera. The style has been reinterpreted, the movement improved upon, and complications added and subtracted, but the overall physical profle – a slim and oversized men’s wristwatch with short, broad lugs – has remained the same.
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26/10/18 09:35
IWC Ref. 325 Portugieser
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7. Hamptons
64.
Patek Philippe – A highly attractive and very rare yellow gold wristwatch with enamel dial, retailed by Gübelin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1955
Reference No.
2526
Movement No.
762’141
Case No.
687’827
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 12-600AT, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,400-34,700 Accessories With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1955 and its subsequent sale on March 20th, 1956.
Patek Philippe’s reference 2526 is a paragon of mid-20th century modern design aesthetic. The brand’s frst self-winding wristwatch, it is a legend in the horological world for both its innovative caliber 12-600AT and classic masculine design, with sensual enamel dial. Introduced in 1953, it has a timeless quality that renders it as relevant today as it was 66 years ago.
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The 35.5mm diameter Baumgartner fabricated case was oversized for the era, but due to its thick proportions, still perfectly suits contemporary tastes even when many enthusiasts consider a 40mm diameter watch the standard. The automatic, in-house caliber, produced from 1953 until approximately 1960, is a work of art with the handcrafed 18k gold guilloché bi-directional rotor crested with the PP signature. It is considered by many to be amongst the fnest automatic movements ever made, featuring highest grade fnishing, and efcient bi-directional winding system allowing for the watch to achieve full power reserve in a relatively short period of time. Over the caliber 12-600’s seven year production period, 7100 movements were made and were featured not only in the reference 2526, but also in references as diverse as the 2540 to the 3425. The present example is exceptionally well-preserved and a fresh-to-the-market ofering, coming from the original family. The frst series’ of-white enamel dial features the recognizable fared enamel surrounding the top and bottom of each hour marker, as well as around the centers of the hour, minute, and seconds hands. In original, unrestored condition and featuring the prestigious Swiss retailer Gübelin’s signature at 6 o’clock, it is a premium example of a reference 2526 featuring so many of the qualities that attract connoisseurs today. Its original state of preservation, easy wearability, and iconic design make this an exceptional wristwatch for any collector.
26/10/18 09:35
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2526 “Enamel Dial”
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7. Hamptons
65.
Patek Philippe – A very fne, rare, and oversized white gold chronograph wristwatch with certifcate of origin, paperwork, and box, single sealed
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2005
Reference No.
5070
Movement No.
3’362’522
Case No.
4’292’795
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27-70 CHR, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $50,000-80,000 Σ €43,400-69,500 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe ftted box, Certifcate of Origin, leather folder and product literature. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of this timepiece in 2005 and its subsequent sale on August 10th, 2005.
Whereas perpetual calendar chronographs have continuously graced Patek Philippe catalogues since the launch of the reference 1518 in 1941, the frm stopped producing simple chronographs in the late 1960s, afer the discontinuation of the reference 1463. This is why the collecting community was extremely excited when Patek Philippe introduced a new chronographonly reference in 1998 in yellow gold (see lot 88) and the subsequent launch of the white gold version, like the present model, in 2001. Directly inspired by the case and dial design of the unique Patek Philippe split-seconds chronograph reference 2512 from 1950, the reference 5070 enjoys a unique spot in Patek Philippe’s history as one of the largest watches it had produced. It was the last chronograph to use the lauded Lemania 2310 ébauche before Patek Philippe switched to an in-house caliber with the introduction of the reference 5170. The white gold reference 5070 pays homage to the legibility of its inspiration, the 2512, with a unique take - blackened white gold Arabic numerals and hands. Also used on the white gold reference 5970, it is a bold contrast to the silvered dial and sublime lustre of the white gold case, perfectly enhancing the stepped case and black tachymeter scale. The present reference 5070 is a rare fnd – a brand new example still in its original factory seal together with its original hangtag. It is furthermore accompanied by its Certifcate of Origin, product literature, and original box.
STOCK PHOTO FOR INFORMATION. NOT ACTUAL WATCH.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5070G
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7. Hamptons
66.
Rolex – A fne and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with “four-line” black gloss dial and bracelet, with presentation box, brochure, and hang tags
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1964
Reference No.
5512, inside case back stamped 5513, III.64
Movement No.
47’188
Case No.
1’178’502
Model Name
Submariner, “4 Liner”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1560, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Later stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 78360, end links stamped 558, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped VC
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $15,000-25,000 €13,000-21,700 Accessories With original Rolex green leather presentation box, Rolex anchor, Rolex hang tag and product literature. Literature For a similar example of reference 5512 with black gloss dial, please see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, page 186.
Rolex’s Submariner wristwatch has long been one of the brand’s most successful models, with production running continuously since being ofcially launched at Basel in 1954. Along with the dual time GMT-Master, it is a model that has been studied, researched, and meticulously documented over the last two decades, and has a long lineage of predecessors
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forming a unique timeline that not only illustrates the history of the timepiece, but the history of the brand and its design development. The frst three Submariner models released were the 6204 and 6205, both water resistant to 100 meters, along with the reference 6200, a professional diver’s watch rated for dives to 200 meters. These early models featured pared down dials with little dial text other than “Rolex Oyster Perpetual”, and were sometimes ftted with pencil-shaped hands, a long ‘Mercedes’ hour hand, lollipop seconds hand, and for the ref. 6200 and its successors, the ref. 6538 and 5510, a “Big Crown” for easy winding and setting. Within a few short years, the model had gone under several modifcations and by 1959, Rolex released the references 5512 and 5513, which were the frst models to feature the now ubiquitous crown guards. The present “4-liner” reference 5512 features its stunning and original “Swiss T<25” black glossy dial with gilt signature and silver gilt “Superlative Chronometer Ofcially Certifed” (SCOC) designation at 6 o’clock. While both the reference 5512 and 5513 featured the same case and bracelet, the reference 5512 had a movement that had been tested and certifed for accuracy and precision by the Contrôle Ofciel Suisse des Chronomètres, and it is this additional two lines added to the dial that sets the reference 5512 from its contemporary counterpart, the reference 5513. Ofered in lovely condition with a well preserved case, and vibrant, glossy dial with nicely matching hands and hour markers. It is a classic icon that has stood the test of time and continues to do so today. Ofered with its original box, gilt anchor, hang tag, and brochure, it’s a lovely collectors’ example that is ideally suited for both casual and formal wear.
26/10/18 09:36
ROLEX Ref. 5512 Submariner “4-Liner”
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26/10/18 09:36
7. Hamptons
67.
Rolex – A very rare, attractive and exceptionally well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black “Paul Newman” dial, tachymeter bezel, and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1967
Reference No.
6239, inside case back further stamped 6239
Case No.
1’626’433
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona, “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 7205, end links stamped 71, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $120,000-180,000 €104,000-156,000
Playing an important role in Rolex history, the reference 6239 introduced in 1963 was the very frst Cosmograph Daytona model in Rolex’s collection. The red “Daytona” text was not displayed on the earliest models as Rolex initially marketed the reference as the “Le Mans” before settling on “Daytona,” which would start appearing on the dials shortly afer the change. Available in stainless steel, 14K, and 18K gold, the 6239 was the frst chronograph by the historic manufacture to feature the tachymeter scale outside the dial, incorporated instead on the bezel. Today, the 6239 with the “Paul Newman” exotic dial confguration is amongst the most sought afer of all collectors’ watches, appreciated by collectors for its rarity, enduring aesthetics, and celebrated history. Becoming increasingly rare is a fresh-to-market “Paul Newman” Daytona presented in hardly worn, original condition from the original owner, such as the one ofered here. The present watch is a stunning example, maintaining its lovely original “Paul Newman” exotic dial in virtually fawless condition housed in a likely unpolished case showing hardly any signs of wear. The black grèné dial with white subsidiary dials, coupled with the bright red of the “Daytona” text at 6 o’clock, form a strikingly beautiful aesthetic. The outer red 1/5th seconds track and Art Deco style font displayed in the subsidiary dials, with well-preserved concentric circles, further enhance the depth of this watch’s beauty. The perfectly preserved luminous plots have begun to take on a pleasing and consistent warm yellow hue. This one-owner “Paul Newman” Daytona is certain to delight the most discerning collector.
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ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
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26/10/18 09:37
7. Hamptons
68.
Audemars Piguet – A fne and rare titanium perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phase, bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2007
Reference No.
25854.TI.00.1150TI
Movement No.
561’118
Case No.
F02912
Model Name
Royal Oak Ofshore
Material
Titanium, rubber, stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2226/2839
Bracelet/Strap
Titanium Audemars Piguet link bracelet, max overall length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet double deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $20,000-30,000 O €17,400-26,100 Accessories With Audemars Piguet warranty dated January 17, 2008, signed by the Audemars Piguet Boutique New York, wooden battery operated winding presentation box, product literature and outer packaging.
In response the quartz crisis of the late 1960s and early 1970s, Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak wristwatch in 1972 as the world’s frst stainless steel luxury sports watch with fully integrated bracelet. Designed by famed horologer Gerald Genta, it was a model that revolutionized luxury watches with a monobloc case featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal
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white gold screws. The watch had a distinctly nautical feel, and with the introduction in 1993 of the Royal Oak Ofshore, Audemars Piguet sought to update the iconic Royal Oak with a sporty and even more masculine aesthetic. Stephen Urquhart, then managing director of AP, asked designer Emmanuel Gueit to update the model with a larger version in hopes of attracting a younger, more recreational buyer. Gueit retained the Royal Oak classic design, but the original’s 39mm case diameter was enlarged to a 42mm diameter case, which when released, was referred to as the “Beast”. The new Ofshore featured a chronograph and calendar mechanism, along with a prominent rubber gasket sandwiched between the bezel and case, and therban – a type of rubber - coated chronograph pushers and screw down crown. These elements enhanced the nautical theme of the Royal Oak model and over the ensuing years it has ofen been associated with sailing events. The present watch, featuring a prestigious perpetual calendar and moon phase indication in addition to a chronograph function, remains in excellent, unpolished condition and is ofered complete with presentation box and its original guarantee. The grey “petite tapisserie” dial with original luminous hour markers and hands is the essence of the Ofshore and makes a wonderful addition to any collection of sports watches. It has a direct historical link back to the original Royal Oak, and is a watch that can be comfortably worn both day and night, at the ofce or sailing in the Mediterranean during the summertime.
26/10/18 09:37
AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Ofshore
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7. Hamptons
69.
Patek Philippe – An extremely fne and very rare yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, moon phase and leap year, with hand engraved “ofcer”-style case, accompanied with certifcate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2011
Reference No.
5160J
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324QR, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant
continues to employ skilled artisans keeping the tradition alive. The reference 5160 is a modern perpetual calendar wristwatch steeped in the frm’s past. The “Ofcier”-style case is reminiscent of watches from the early 20th century with its hinged case back, and the engraved arabesque motif is artful and similar to Belle Époque motifs of the late 19th century.
buckle Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $75,000-150,000 Σ €65,100-130,000 Accessories With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated March 4, 2011 and signed by the Patek Philippe Salon, Geneva, battery operated automatic wooden ftted presentation box, leather envelop, product literature and outer packaging.
Throughout its long and prestigious history, Patek Philippe has been associated with quality workmanship and innovative movements. Their early pocket watches were ofen engraved with intricate designs adding elegance and grace, occupying the highest echelons in terms of quality. While the crafsman capable of such intricate work are slowly disappearing, Patek Philippe
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Fresh to the market from the original owner and complete with certifcate of origin and presentation winding box, this reference 5160 is in pristine condition and appears to have been worn only a handful of times. The successor to the reference 5159, the present watch stands out for its exquisitely hand engraved case adorning all visible, exterior surfaces. The dial features an engraved center matching the abstract foral design of the case engraving and is highlighted by the retrograde date sector, while the classic Roman numerals provide a classic look. Released in 2010 and produced in yellow, pink and white gold, it is believed that only a few dozen of each metal will be made. Now discontinued in yellow gold, today only the white gold model is still available from the brand. This watch is a true heritage timepiece, with its superbly engraved case and retrograde perpetual calendar complication, it is an homage to both artistic crafsmanship and modern horology.
26/10/18 09:38
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5160J
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26/10/18 09:38
7. Hamptons
70.
Tornek-Rayville – A very fne and extremely rare stainless steel anti-magnetic diver’s wristwatch made for the United States Navy
Manufacturer
Tornek-Rayville
Year
Circa 1966
Reference No.
TR-900
Case No.
0922
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. AS 1361, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Nylon
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $50,000-100,000 €43,400-86,900
watches, specifcally the Fify Fathoms Mil-Spec, which they had already tested and approved for use by the Navy Experimental Diving Unit in 1958. Allen V. Tornek, of the Allen V. Tornek Co., based in midtown New York City, was an importer of Blancpain and won a bid to be the American supplier of Blancpain for the U.S. Navy. The second name “Rayville” was the ofcial name of Blancpain, adopted in 1932 afer the death of the last member of the Blancpain family to run the company, Frédéric-Emile Blancpain, forced a legal name change.
The Tornek-Rayville TR-900 is a watch ordered during the development and refnement of combat diver programs in the world’s armed forces, the dark presence of a Cold War between post-World War II military superpowers, and proxy conficts in Southeast Asia and the Middle East. These watches needed to suit the needs of soldiers being sent to those faraway places, and withstand the rigors of military combat.
The Navy Experimental Diving Unit used elements from three watches tested: the Rolex Submariner, the Blancpain Fify Fathoms, and the Enicar Seapearl 600 to create the specifcations for the TR-900. The ofcial report detailing the fndings of the Navy Experimental Diving Unit regarding these watches notes the need for a dull case like the Blancpain, rather than a shiny case such as the Enicar and the Rolex which “should not be used in tropical waters where biting fsh abide.” The hacking mechanism, humidity indicator, luminous bezel and dial, and most importantly, an easily adjustable rotating bezel, made the Blancpain the ideal choice.
Today, the TR-900, made for the United States Navy, is one of the rarest and most sought afer military watches for collectors. Delivered in two batches, one in late 1964 and the other in mid-1966, a total of about 1,000 watches conforming to U.S. military specifcation MIL-W-22176A were provided by Blancpain through their American subsidiary Tornek-Rayville. Due to the 1933 “Buy American Act” that remained in force, the U.S. Navy could not directly purchase Swiss Blancpain
According to scholarship, most of these TR-900s were destroyed by the United States government; however, a few escaped destruction and it is believed somewhere between 30 and 50 examples survived. To fnd one is rare, but to fnd one in exceptionally preserved condition, such as the present lot, is even rarer. Making a seldom-seen appearance on the public market, this Tornek-Rayville will delight discerning collectors of military watches.
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26/10/18 09:38
TORNEK-RAYVILLE TR-900 “United States Navy”
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26/10/18 09:38
8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering Because a good look is always timely
“A gentleman's choice of timepiece says as much about him as does his Savile Row suit,” according to James Bond author Ian Fleming – himself a proud wearer of a Rolex Explorer (Reference 1016). It’s unsurprising, then, that perhaps the most dapper fctional protagonist ever created wears a series of Submariners, Breitling Top Times, TAG Heuer Professional Night-Dives and Omega Seamasters (and much more horological splendour besides) in the movie adaptations of Fleming’s work. As anyone who’s attended the social events surrounding the Baselworld and SIHH watch fairs – or even a collectors’ event or auction such as this - knows, though, the late author’s axiom works both ways. The relationship between timepiece and attire is reciprocal, and the type of people who relish the coaxial escapements of George Daniels and intricate geometry etched painstakingly onto a bezel in a century past are likely, too, to be aesthetically attuned to the fner nuances of fashion. At these occasions, dress-codes tend to be unwritten and unofcial, making fanciful, free- wheeling approaches not just permissible but inevitable. Here lies an opportunity to dig out those items that may not get an airing at the ofce, the racecourse or even the gentlemen’s club: shirts in traditionally informal materials; tastefully adorned loafers; the kind of pocket squares that’d make many a Monte Carlo doorman blench; the headwear that best captures the essence of you at your ease. This is an evening during which external rules are batteringrammed out the way, and in their place one’s internal style inclinations come to the fore. Gentlemen, choose your weapons.
Lots 71 to 81 Though a fashionable ensemble is certainly not out of place at a watch gathering, sartorial choices are always overshadowed by horological ones. In fact, it’s not uncommon to buck the single watch on the wrist norm for double – or even triple – wristing, sleeves pushed up to reveal a collector’s prized possessions. Reference numbers are traded fast and furious, and wrists scrutinized to an unforeseen level in search of the details that mark the ultimate versions of rare collectors’ watch. The gatherings themselves take on as many diferent guises as the collectors who frequent them – well-catered brand dinners, raucous gatherings in sports bars, or over cappuccinos in a quiet cofee shop. The point isn’t to wear your best watch or your most expensive watch, but your most special watch. Collectors gather to wow each other with the ultra-rare, the unique, the crown jewels of their collection. Whether you turn over your Explorer II to reveal a minutely-etched retailer inventory number indicating it was once sold by the foremost Argentinian watch retailer Ricciardi, or a passing iPhone fashlight reveals four lines of giltprinted text on a ‘Big Crown’ Submariner, it’s the subtle nuances that count the most.
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
Mr Porter’s look
Lot 72 Vacheron Constantin. Cornes de Vache Limited Edition for HODINKEE, stainless steel, circa 2017
An ensemble blissfully devoid of ties, lapels, classic shoe shapes or any other of the accoutrements we still consider imperative to looking ‘respectable’, this get-up yells: “This is evening-time, which means down-time, however much networking I’m doing.” The eye is drawn straight to the Shetland virgin wool sweater in mustard by Prada, a piece - made all the more fattering by its ribbed trims - which begs to be shrouded by a dark waist-length jacket (a mantle taken on here by this classically styled blue garment in supple navy suede by Berluti - the illustrious French house also being behind the brown leather tote bag). Mr P. – a range created by the MR PORTER team – can be thanked for the ‘Jacques’ suede boots and dazzling white jeans, while a horizontal striped t-shirt from Sunspel (the company that introduce boxer shorts to the UK, trivia bufs) may see light of day, depending on temperatures.
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Jacket by Berluti Sweater by SALLE PRIVÉE Shirt by Caruso Scarf by Emma Willis Jeans by Ralph Lauren Purple Label Boots by Loro Piana Pouch by Berluti
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The Rake’s look
Lot 74 Rolex. ‘Padellone’ reference 8171, 18K yellow gold, circa 1951
A watch fair gala dinner is a paradoxical afair: inherently relaxed, blissfully informal, but likely to be packed with attendees who will likely be both personal friends and professional peers - hence, a strong impetus to impress. The old adage goes that to do this, the safest bet is to go British, which explains this look. The two stalwart tailoring houses, that of Huntsman, with their cream Prince of Wales check jacket and Edward Sexton’s linen Hollywood top trouser is a poetic combination, they are guarantors of sophisticated, intelligent styling. With the Samurai-themed pocket square from Rubinacci bringing Italian playfulness. Cream and pink being the soy and garlic of smart casual for the sartorially literate, the Turnbull & Asser cotton shirt shown here complements the jacket beautifully, while the Khaki fedora from Lock & Co and the penny loafers in chocolate brown suede from Cheaney ensure that studied insouciance reigns from head to toe. The hip fask - optional, naturally - may help the sprezzatura glow from within...
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Jacket by Hunstman Shirt by Emma Willis Pocket square by Rubinacci Hat by Lock & Co Trousers by Edward Sexton Socks by The London Sock Company Loafers by Cheaney
29/10/18 18:16
8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
71.
IWC – A very rare and historically interesting ceramic and stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with day and date - property from the family of Günter Blümlein
Manufacturer
IWC
Year
2001
Reference No.
3705
Case No.
2’601’769
Model Name
Der Fliegerchronograph
Material
Ceramic and titanium
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 7902, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather custom-made IWC strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel IWC deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $6,000-8,000 Σ €5,200-6,900 Accessories Accompanied with a service dial, additional date ring and calendar ring in Italian, additional hour, minute and chronograph hands and additional black leather IWC strap with stainless steel IWC buckle. Further delivered with a IWC Certifcate confrming production of the ceramic chronograph reference 3705 and its delivery November 13, 2001.
Günter Blümlein (1943-2001) was a modern watchmaker that helped form the the 21st century horological landscape as we know it. It has been said that without his stewardship, some of the industry’s favorite brands may not have been viable entities today. From an early age, he was an accomplished student of engineering and apprenticed with Diehl, a manufacturer of armaments, calculators
Image courtesy of IWC
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and clocks. Following the apprenticeship, he was awarded a company scholarship to study mechanical engineering with a concentration in precision mechanics. He graduated in 1968 and was known not only for his technical skills but also, as an excellent marketer, manager and communicator. Blümlein entered the horological world at the precise moment the quartz crisis was wreaking havoc on brands - many having gone bankrupt, having been unable to compete with these highly accurate, low-cost movements. In an efort to challenge this new revolution, the VDO Adolf Schindling group head, Albert Keck, sought to put two Swiss brands and one Parisian brand under one entity, and while the acquisition of the Parisian frm never occurred, the group brought IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre and A. Lange & Söhne together under one management team. The name was later changed to Les Manufactures Horlogoères, and in 1982 Blümlein was appointed managing director. Under his direction each brand was transformed, and today they are known for some of the most complicated and intriguing timepieces available. At IWC, Blümlein brought the IWC Grande Complication to market as well as working with Porsche to create titanium chronographs, and in a groundbreaking frst, introduced the use of ceramic for a watch case, as seen on this ceramic Der Fliegerchronograph or Pilot’s chronograph reference 3705. The present reference 3705 with custom made leather strap was purchased by Günter Blümlein himself. Presented as a gif for his wife, it was worn by her and is presented here for the very frst time. The pilot’s chronograph is a rare modern classic that was introduced in 1994 and remained in production only until 1998. This pilot’s chronograph reference 3705 is a very rare modern classic introduced in 1994 and remained in production only until 1998. According to research performed by Phillips and IWC, only 999 ceramic examples were made, with a larger production number for the reference 3706, the stainless steel model. The reference 3705 has a masculine and sexy appeal with its dark ceramic case – a fully compressed, molded ceramic not just a surface coating. The present example is in excellent overall condition with sharp case and clean original dial with luminous hour markers that have aged beautifully to a warm yellow hue. As would be expected of a watch from Schafhausen, the calendar is in German, and the watch is accompanied with a new factory replacement dial and Italian calendar ring. Collectors today are looking for rare timepieces with exciting stories to tell, and this Pilot’s Chronograph ticks all the boxes: not only is it a very rare model, but also a noteworthy timepiece with a direct link to one of the greatest horologists of the modern era. Phillips wishes to sincerely thank Dr. David Seyfer, IWC Museum Curator, for his invaluable assistance in researching the present lot.
26/10/18 09:44
IWC Ref. 3705 Der Fliegerchronograph
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
72.
Vacheron Constantin – A very fne and rare stainless steel limited edition chronograph wristwatch with pulsations dial and unusual lugs, accompanied with original guarantee, additional straps, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
2017
Reference No.
5000H
Movement No.
5’381’845
Case No.
1’368’615
Model Name
Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1142, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed. Caseback additionally engraved ‘Limited Edition of 36 for HODINKEE’.
Estimate $20,000-30,000 Σ €17,400-26,100 Accessories Accompanied by original Vacheron Constantin guarantee, two additional custom calfskin leather straps supplied by HODINKEE, USB key, Vacheron Constantin passport, and original Vacheron Constantin presentation box.
Initially introduced in 2015, and ofered only in platinum, the Cornes de Vache from Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques collection is based on the iconic reference 6087, manufactured in 1955. The moniker ‘Cornes de Vache’, meaning ‘bull’s horns’ refects the famboyant and powerfully curved lugs, present on both the vintage and this modern iteration. Twenty-eight examples in yellow gold are known to exist of the original reference 6087, the only vintage Vacheron Constantin with a
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screw-down case back and circular chronograph pushers. It was only in production for about a decade, and the last chronograph to be manufactured by Vacheron until 1989. On February 7th, 2017, online watch publication HODINKEE released the fourth of their limited edition collaborations, this stainless steel Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955. Though it was already available in platinum and 18k rose gold, the stainless steel version, with pulsometer scale and ‘anthracite grey opaline’ dial, released by HODINKEE in only 36 examples, thrilled collectors all over the world. It built not only on the aesthetic foundation of the original reference 6087, but incorporated modern improvements introduced with the platinum Cornes de Vache in 2015, such as the updated manually-wound chronograph caliber 1142 and an increase in size from the original’s 35mm diameter to 38.5mm diameter. The 36 Cornes de Vaches Historiques 1955 for HODINKEE sold out in less than thirty minutes. So successful was the model that immediately following its announcement, the wait list reached 130 names. Three elements make the HODINKEE limited edition so prized among collectors: a case metal choice of stainless steel, a pulsometer scale designed for medical professionals replacing the tachymeter scale used for the regular production model, and the gorgeous anthracite opaline dial that changes color with the slightest lighting alteration. Much like the original reference 6087, the ornate architecture of the case complements the simplicity of the two-register layout perfectly, creating an elegant and classic profle.
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
73.
Patek Philippe – An important, very fne and attractive oversized stainless steel wristwatch with date, power reserve, and bracelet, with certifcate of origin and product literature – the frst example of the reference ever produced
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1998
Reference No.
3710/1A-001
Movement No.
3’148’000
Case No.
4’050’626
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 330 SC IZR, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel integrated Patek Philippe Nautilus bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin confrming sale at the Patek Philippe Salon in Geneva on March 2nd, 1999 product literature, leather travel case, and two extra bracelet links. Further with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1998 and its subsequent sale on March 2nd, 1999. Literature This same watch, matching serial and movement numbers, is featured in John Goldberger’s Patek Philippe Steel Watches, pp. 380-381, indicating that this reference 3710/1A was the frst ever produced by Patek Philippe.
Stainless steel Patek Philippe concealed deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $40,000-80,000 €34,700-69,500
Perhaps one of the most iconic wristwatch designs of the 20th century, the Nautilus has gracefully matured in terms of its desirability and evolution since it was frst introduced in 1976. The frst reference produced, the 3700, would only plant the seed for Patek Phillipe to develop and innovate their Nautilus design into a full-on collection. Through the 1980s and early 1990s, Patek Philippe experimented with case materials, sizes, and dial designs, but all were still simple time-only watches only additionally indicating the date. All would change with the introduction of the Nautilus reference 3710 in 1999, which featured an innovative power reserve indicator below the 12 o’clock hour marker. Although in 1996 Patek re-worked the dial to have Roman numerals instead of polished luminous indexes, the 3710 marks the frst real advance into making the Nautilus a well-rounded collection like the Calatrava – and it would also re-introduce the “Jumbo” 42mm case diameter prized by collectors. Featuring polished white gold Roman numerals as hour markers, flled with luminous material, a matte black dial without the characteristic ribbing found on earlier models, and a delicate and somewhat abstract power reserve, the reference 3710 otherwise subscribes to the design cues of the original reference 3700. The present Nautilus is an exciting and exceptional example of the reference 3710 that Phillips is proud to ofer at auction for the frst time. With movement serial number 3’148’000, it is the frst example of the reference manufactured by Patek Philippe, and is featured prominently in John Goldberger’s landmark book, Patek Philippe Steel Watches. Sold in March of 1999 through Patek Philippe’s Geneva salon, it has been preserved in excellent original condition and is furthermore accompanied with its original certifcate of origin and accompanying paperwork.
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PATEK PHILIPPE 3710A “First One Made”
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
74. Rolex – An extremely rare, highly attractive, and well-preserved yellow gold triple calendar wristwatch with moon phases and two-tone dial
The Rolex Reference 8171, known as the “Padellone” (Italian for large frying pan) amongst collectors, is one of the most legendary, best proportioned, and consequently sought afer vintage wristwatches ever made by any manufacturer. If one were to ask the worldwide community of watch collectors which model, in their view, should be on the all-time top-ten list of collectors’ watches, Rolex’s large triple calendar reference 8171, would certainly be most ofen cited. During the end of the 1940s and into the 1950s, much of Rolex’s design eforts concentrated on tool watches for a new world order, where an increasingly active public demanded precision timekeepers that could withstand the harsh environments they encountered. Rolex’s two full calendar watches – the references 8171 and 6062 were a departure from the tool watch to a complicated wristwatch for the modern gentleman. Whether for business, travel or the weekend, they were the only two models Rolex ever produced indicating the day of the week, month, date, and moon phase until the 2017 introduction of the Cellini Moonphase. Classically styled wristwatches with a lineage reaching back to the days of the pocket watch, they were only in production for a very short period between 1949 and 1952.
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
74.
Rolex – An extremely rare, highly attractive, and well-preserved yellow gold triple calendar wristwatch with moon phases and two-tone dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1951
Reference No.
8171, inside case back stamped 8171
Movement No.
10’422/G4787
Case No.
820’634, interior stamped 613
Model Name
“Padellone”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 10 1/2’’, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rolex lizard strap
Clasp/Buckle
Gold-plated Rolex buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $220,000-360,000 ΣΔ €191,000-313,000
breathtaking when preserved in close to mint condition, such as the current lot. On the opposite side of the scale, when subjected to repeated and unprofessional polishing, most of its charm and beauty is lost. This particular reference 8171 has happily not sufered such a fate. The Rolex crown and case number on the back, notoriously susceptible to rubbing of or disappearing entirely with any unskilled polish, is still quite visible with sharp defnition. The brushed fnishing to the sides of the case and underside of the lugs is still beautifully present, as is the Helvetia hallmark with the ‘G’ for the Geneva bureau de contrôle below. The lugs are thick and full, and there is a defnitive step between the lugs and the case, which is only seen on the best preserved models.
Literature An example of the reference 8171 in 18K yellow gold is illustrated in John Goldberger’s 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, pp. 78-79. Additional examples are illustrated on page 55.
Due to the sheer expanse of the dial, it is what draws the eye frst when being evaluated by collectors and afcionados. The current lot has a beautiful and desirable two-tone dial, with the inner dial having aged to an even lemon crème color that harmonizes well with the lustre of the case. The blue numerals on the outer day track are well preserved with no signs of fading or loss. The overall efect is quite sublime.
Reference 8171 impresses not only with its large 38mm diameter, especially when considering that a large gentleman’s watch in 1950 was around 35mm, but in particular with its harmonious case proportions and sharp edges, facets and angles. As a consequence, the 8171 case is
Fresh-to-the-market, it is even ftted with its original Rolex strap and buckle – both as well-preserved as the case, indicating the watch was hardly ever worn. This timepiece ofers collectors the opportunity to own one of the most beautiful and charismatic examples of the reference 8171 in yellow gold to surface in recent memory.
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ROLEX Ref. 8171 “Padellone”
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
75.
Omega – A fne and very rare chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel and special orange chronograph hand
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1968
Reference No.
145.012-67 SP
Movement No.
26’077’243
Model Name
Speedmaster, “Ultraman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel mesh bracelet, additional leather
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
strap
Estimate $20,000-30,000 €17,400-26,100 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming sale of the present watch to Switzerland and production on June 21, 1968, where the watch was ftted with a special orange hour hand.
The decades immediately following World War II were marked by explosive technological growth, as global powers sought to strengthen their military and economic status. Wartime innovation led to incredible strides in the feld of rocket science in particular, and in 1955, the Soviet Union startled the world by sending the frst man into space, Yuri Gagarin. The following ffeen years, until Apollo 11 successfully landed on the Moon, were marked by the Space Race: an escalating competition between the U.S. and the Soviet Union on who would conquer the next great frontier.
Though stories of aliens had been part of folklore for centuries, stories of men defending Earth from alien invaders became more pervasive in popular culture once the idea of entering space became a reality. And thus, in the mid-1960s, Japanese director Eiji Tsuburaya (co-creator of the original Godzilla series) began writing what would become the Ultraman series. Tsuburaya used many of the lefover sets from Godzilla to create Ultraman, beginning in March 1966. Ultraman begins with an intergalactic being (Ultraman) accidentally colliding with and killing a member of Earth’s Science Special Search Party (SSSP), Shin Hayata. Feeling remorseful, Ultraman merges his own life force with Hayata’s and vows to defend Earth against any that would seek to threaten it. Ultraman lives within Hayata, who transforms into Ultraman when the need arises. While Hayata is a normal man, Ultraman is a 131 foot tall silver and red-orange creature. His crested head and large, intimidating eyes became instantly iconic, as did his orange and silver suit. In 1971, Tsuburaya’s son spearheaded the production of Ultraman Returns, where a diferent iteration of Ultraman – Ultraman Jack – returns to Earth and teams up with the Monster Attack Team (MAT). According to Omega, the producers of Ultraman Returns selected Omega’s “Moonwatch” as part of the Monster Attack Team’s monster fghting kit. As mankind was developing the technologies required to enter space, they were also testing the means of timing their eforts in that harsh environment. The Omega Speedmaster’s place in the Space Race is well-documented, particularly the reference 145.012-67 – it graced the wrists of astronauts on Apollo 11, Apollo 14, and Apollo-Soyuz. It was the last Speedmaster model to be ftted with the renowned caliber 321 and is set apart from its predecessors by its ‘SP’ (‘SP’ for “Spécial Poussoirs” or “special pushers”) that increased water resistance. Though it is not known why a selection of the reference 145.012-67 were ftted with an orange chronograph hand – legibility is one theory – it is estimated that less than ffy correct examples exist with this bold, colorful detail. In order to be truly called an “Ultraman”, the watch must be examined in person by Omega and accompanied with a note on the archival extract. These watches typically fall within a certain serial number range - between 26’076’XXX and 26’079’XXX. With the introduction in the summer of 2018 of the immensely successful Speedy Tuesday Ultraman limited edition, interest in vintage Ultraman Speedmasters has dramatically increased. Perhaps, if alien invaders ever did attack Earth, the brave men and women called to defend their planet would do so wearing a Speedmaster “Ultraman”. The present lot, preserved in original and unpolished condition, is a superb example for the “defender” collector.
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OMEGA Ref. 145.012 Speedmaster “Ultraman”
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
76.
Rolex – An early and very rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date, gas escape valve, “double red” Mk I dial, and patent pending caseback
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1968
Reference No.
1665; inside caseback stamped 1665 IV.67 440
Movement No.
D687880
Case No.
2’117’440, outer caseback inscribed “Patent Pending”
Model Name
Sea-Dweller, “Double Red”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed; outer caseback inscribed “Patent Pending”
Estimate $80,000-160,000 €69,500-139,000
Literature For another example of a “Double Red” Sea-Dweller with “Patent Pending” caseback, please see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, page 190.
The Sea-Dweller is now one of the most appreciated Rolex timepieces, possibly because of its genesis as one of the ultimate tool watches, born out of true necessity and grown to become an iconic piece of watchmaking. Its history begins in the mid-1960s. At the time, a number of international experiments were developed with the goal of demonstrating the possibility of living for an extended period of time (sometimes weeks) in underwater habitats. Rolex began developing timepieces which would resist very deep dives, and underwater habitat conditions where a pressurized mixture of helium and oxygen was used for breathing.
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The helium escape valve was an ingenious invention because when working in helium-rich atmospheres, tiny helium molecules would seep through the crystal and rubber gaskets into the watch and create pressure once the diver had surfaced. This would usually result in the crystal popping of. The development of the valve was meant to prevent this issue by letting the gas escape the watch case and easing the pressure. Today, it is well established that Rolex worked with a number of divers and organizations around the world to aide in the Sea-Dweller’s development. For example, the scientists of the American underwater habitat, Tektite, wore such watches in 1969 and 1970, and the same is true for the scientists working at the Sealab III experiment. The name Sea-Dweller itself is a direct nod to the fact that the model had been developed to meet the demands of scientists living - or “dwelling” - under the sea. Following the positive results obtained with these companies, Rolex went on to publicly commercialize the model. The earliest iterations engraved with “Patent Pending Rolex Oyster Gas Escape Valve” on their casebacks (such as the present example) are highly sought afer. These early models were in efect prototypes, and their caseback interiors feature the last three digits of the watch’s serial number - stamped 440 on the present example, as well as IV.67 indicating production in the fourth quarter of 1967. The Mark 1 dial is a second defning feature of these prototype models; the double red printed Sea-Dweller on the frst line, and Submariner 2000 on the second – all words in an equal font size. The vividness of the red color found on the present example is especially noteworthy since these designations consisted of the red print placed on top of white, that over time, would ofen fade to a light pink tone. Almost as exceptional as the history and rarity of this piece is its well-preserved condition, with thick chamfers on the lugs and a sharp case.
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ROLEX Ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller “Patent Pending Double Red”
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
77. Rolex – An extremely rare, well preserved, and highly attractive stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer “four liner” dial, big crown, bracelet, ftted presentation box, original guarantee, and chronometer certifcate
One look at this fresh-to-the-market Rolex Submariner reference 6538 made in 1957, and several words will come to mind, including breathtaking, spectacular, and fascinating. Quite simply, it’s amongst the most impressive and best preserved “Big Crown” Submariner wristwatches to appear publicly in recent years – and a dream watch for collectors in terms of its condition, originality, and completeness. First launched in 1955, reference 6538 is incredibly desirable today due to its rarity, robust proportions, and good looks. The model was in production for four short years, and is characterized by its black lacquer “Swiss”-signed dial, lack of crown guards and 8 millimeter crown, hence its name “Big Crown Submariner”. Reference 6538 is forever immortalized onscreen, having accompanied Sean Connery’s James Bond on multiple secret missions. Bond’s chosen watch was a “Big Crown” Submariner in the flms, Dr. No, From Russia with Love, and Goldfnger. Consequently, reference 6538 is today also known as the “James Bond Submariner” to Rolex collectors and scholars. This example, manufactured in 1957, is an early example produced towards the beginning of the reference’s production period. Featuring its original “Big Crown”, the condition of the case is extraordinary, with its totally unpolished and hardly worn state of preservation, sharp crisp lines, and factory original bevels - making it one of the fnest examples to ever appear at auction. Once the watch is turned over, collectors will notice a unique hand engraved inscription reading “GES 362-24-6858”, certainly not the usual military markings one fnds for example on a reference 5513 “MilSub” [see lot 28]. It is believed through research the watch was originally owned by a George E. Stoddard born in 1924 and died 1997. It is possible he inscribed his initials and social security number on the timepiece in case his watch was ever lost – particularly relevant if he served in the military.
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
77.
Rolex – An extremely rare, well preserved, and highly attractive stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer “four liner” dial, big crown, bracelet, ftted presentation box, original guarantee, and chronometer certifcate
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1957
Reference No.
6538
Movement No.
N726’204
Case No.
307’234, inside case back stamped III.57
Model Name
Submariner, “Big Crown”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1030, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max overall length 215mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
stamped 7-70
Estimate $300,000-600,000 €261,000-521,000
Literature For a similar example of a reference 6538 “‘Big Crown” model see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, pp. 206 and 207. Accessories Accompanied by ftted Rolex presentation box, original guarantee card, and original chronometer certifcate dated August 12th, 1957.
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Another exciting detail found on the case is the presence of a hardly ever seen transitional bezel with red triangle at the 12 o’clock position, and no minute subdivisions. Compared with earlier models, which featured silver triangles, and slightly later models with red triangle and minute sub-divisions until the 15 minute mark, the present bezel is exceptionally rare. Fitted with the original curved crystal as delivered by the factory over 60 years ago, beneath it lies the stunning, original lacquer dial. Beautifully preserved with attractive signs of aging, its surface remains highly glossy and vivid, with its gilt lettering and minute chapter ring remaining especially vibrant. The luminous hour markers remain perfectly intact and have aged to a warm beige color. Known as a “Four Liner”, the dial displays “Ofcially Certifed Chronometer”, comprising two lines of text underneath the depth rating. This designation denotes that the watch is ftted with a chronometer certifed movement. “Four liner” dials are especially beloved by collectors, and considered rarer than their “two-liner” counterparts. Together, these attributes make the watch exceptional, but one more detail propels it to the next level: the presence of its original box, guarantee, and chronometer rating certifcate – especially ftting considering the chronometer designation found on the dial. To fnd an example, still retaining its original accessories afer 61 years, is a truly rare opportunity and anomaly in the world of Submariner “tool watches”. A rare treasure that would certainly be the crown jewel of a Rolex sports watch collection.
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ROLEX Ref. 6538 Submariner “Four-Liner Big Crown”
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
78.
Rolex – An early, very rare, and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with “mark 1” dial, 24-hour indication, date and bracelet, retailed by Joyeria Ricciardi, Buenos Aires
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1971
Reference No.
1655
Movement No.
D930’957
Case No.
2’770’331, inside case back further stamped II.71
Model Name
Explorer II, “Freccione”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 7836, end links stamped 280, max overall length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex folding deployant clasp
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
stamped 11.71
Estimate $18,000-30,000 €15,600-26,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex presentation box with Ricciardi retailer signature.
Rolex introduced the Explorer II as a new generation of the famed Explorer family of wristwatches frst introduced in the early 1950s. With the successful ascent of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzig Norgay, Rolex sought to ofer a robust and wearable tool watch meeting the demands of early mountaineers.
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The unique design, with the engraved 24-hour calibrated bezel and oversized center hand, referred to by collectors as “Freccione” or big arrow, permits the wearer to easily tell time in the darkness of caves. The triangular-shaped hand indicates the time on the non-rotating 24-hour calibrated steel bezel. While reminiscent of the 24-hour rotating bezel of the GMT-Master, this watch is not for dual time purposes, but solely for those who are in darkness for prolonged periods of time, and enables the wearer to diferentiate night and day. The present lot is an exceptional, early example, featuring all the correct elements of frst generation examples of the reference that are so sought afer by collectors – straight seconds hand, Mark 1 bezel, and Mark 1 dial. Fresh-tothe-auction market and manufactured in the frst year of the model’s production, it’s preserved in wonderful original condition with an unpolished case and dial that has beautifully aged over the last 47 years. Elevating its importance, the watch is further enhanced by handstamped inventory numbers to the underside of the lugs, the unmistakable mark of a watch retailed by the prestigious Joyeria Ricciardi of Buenos Aires, and one of less than a handful known to exist. The warm brownish hues of the luminous hour markers match the hue of the luminous hands, while the case has strong proportions and clearly defned lug bevels as delivered from the factory. The reference 1655 is an exciting reference for collectors – a prominent model within the Rolex product line since it was frst introduced. Accompanied with its Ricciardi-signed Rolex box, it is not only an all original early example, retailed by Ricciardi, it is one of the fnest examples of the reference to appear on the market.
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ROLEX 1655 Explorer II “Mark 1 Ricciardi”
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
79. Patek Philippe – An extremely rare, well preserved, and highly attractive pink gold dual time wristwatch with separately adjustable hour hand, retailed by Gobbi, Milano
The mid-20th century emerged from the war years with a new world order with some nations in ruin, and others the new dominant powers. The sea change occurring politically, further changed the societal fabric with a new perspective, witnessing a breakdown of old class barriers, to one more casual and egalitarian. These changes afected all aspects of life and horology was no exception. By the early 1950s, brands competed to make tool watches that had both commercial and recreational uses. The growth of global travel that began in the early years of the 20th century blossomed with the advent of jet travel in the 1950s and 1960s, and it was to these new globe trotters that brands sought to produce watches, which not only told time, but had a functional purpose when crossing multiple time zones. The watches could be masculine and rugged in stainless steel, or elegant and gentlemanly in solid gold. Patek Philippe’s reference 2597 was one of the most sophisticated and innovative designs from this early era. Patek Philippe released the reference 2597 in 1958, which was based on a Louis Cottier-designed prototype from 1953 with heures sautantes, or jumping hours. Cottier, an independent watchmaker, was known for his ingenious work on specialized timepieces from jumping digital hour watches, to aviators’ watches and most notably his “World Time” mechanism from 1931. Over the span of almost 30 years, he delivered to Patek Philippe approximately 380 watch movements leading to some of the most sought afer timepieces of the 20th century, including the reference 1415 “World Time” with engraved bezel with 41 world cities, the reference 2523 - a two crown “World Time” watch rotating world city ring on the dial, and the reference 2597 which came in two series. The frst, like the present watch, with one hour hand and two pushers in the lef side of the case allowing for the hour hand to be quickly adjusted forward or backward. The second series, launched in 1962 added an additional hour hand. So intelligent and enduring was this design, a version of the same system can be found in Patek Philippe’s World Time Chronograph ref. 5930G launched in 2016. Scholarship tells us that the frst version was made in approximately 100 pieces, with the vast majority cased in yellow gold.
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
79.
Patek Philippe – An important, extremely rare, well preserved, and highly attractive pink gold dual time wristwatch with separately adjustable hour hand, retailed by Gobbi, Milano
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1959
Reference No.
2597
Movement No.
727’314
Case No.
309’779
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-400, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $150,000-300,000 €130,000-261,000 Accessories With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in pink gold in 1959 and its subsequent sale on April 14th, 1960. Literature Examples of the reference 2597 are illustrated in Patek Philippe Wristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, pp. 238 & 239.
The present example is a remarkable and exciting discovery. Absolutely fresh-to-the-market and previously unknown, it remained in the original owner’s possession for most of its life, appearing publicly here for the frst time. According to scholarship, it is only the second example of a frst series reference 2597 in pink gold to ever appear – and the present watch further impresses with its outstanding overall condition. Elevating the watch’s importance, it’s believed to be the frst and only known reference 2597 across both series to appear with the prestigious “Gobbi, Milano” retailer signature. The large case is beautifully preserved with strong proportions, having never been polished, and showing signs of modest wear – enjoyed perhaps only for special occasions throughout the owner’s lifetime. Impressively, the inside caseback shows no service marks of any kind - proof that the watch has seen no intervention throughout its lifespan. Its dial is stunning, with slender raised enamel numerals with four lapidated markers at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. The raised hard enamel signature, as well as the retailer signature, remain perfectly intact with no losses from prior cleanings. The 1950s was a period of great innovation and understated case design with many models becoming icons of 20th century horology. This lot, with its rarity and superb condition, is sure to please not only the frequent traveler but also the discerning collector looking for a historically signifcant horological masterpiece.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2597
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
80. Patek Philippe – An early, extremely fne and very rare yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with sweep center seconds and moon phases
Alongside the famed perpetual calendar chronograph reference 2499, Patek Philippe released the simple perpetual calendar reference 2497, just as it had released the predecessor reference 1518 alongside the reference 1526. The references 2497 and 2499 were designed with larger diameter cases featuring more robust and elaborate lugs compared with their predecessors. Additionally, a waterproof companion was introduced shortly afer the reference 2497, the rare reference 2438/1. Established scholarship tells us that there were a combined total of only 179 total examples made across both references 2497 and 2438/1, with movement numbers spanning from 888’000 to 888’178. Some two thirds of these movements were placed within the reference 2497 over a production span of over 10 years. In fact, Patek Philippe took the challenge of creating a so-called “simple” perpetual calendar (if such a thing is not an oxymoron) to heart, adapting their muchlauded caliber 27 SC (SC for “seconde au centre”) to have a perpetual calendar function, transforming it into the 27 SC Q (Q for “quantième”). The sibling references 2497 and 2438/1 were the world’s frst perpetual calendars with center seconds. The case is virtually identical to the reference 2499, with gracefully futed lugs and a robust, stepped case. Early examples such as the present lot are further characterized by delicate feuille hands and alternating gold dot and Arabic numeral indices. While the majority of the cases were made by Wenger, the earliest examples in the series, such as the present lot with the movement number 888’008, were manufactured by Vichet. These are characterized by a fat caseback and elongated, more dramatically downturned lugs that permit the watch to be elevated when laid fat on a surface. The simplifed dial with center seconds instead of subsidiary seconds, as well as the removal of the railway-style outer seconds track gives the watch an overall cleaner and highly legible appearance. Scholarship estimates that only approximately 15 examples of the reference 2497 with a Vichet case are believed to have been produced in yellow gold.
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
80.
Patek Philippe – An early, extremely fne and very rare yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with sweep center seconds and moon phases
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1951
Reference No.
2497
Movement No.
888’008, further stamped twice with the
Case No.
674’373
Material
18K yellow gold
Geneva seal
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27 SC, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $250,000-350,000 O €217,000-304,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archive confrming the present watch was manufactured in 1951 and sold on October 29th, 1953. Literature A similar reference 2497 in yellow gold, bearing the case number 674’378 and the movement number 888’019 is catalogued in Patek Philippe Museum - Patek Philippe Watches: Volume II, pp. 295
Rarely does this reference appear at auction in such superlative condition, but even more rare is the appearance of a 2497 with such an early movement number – the ninth example ever produced. In fact, the yellow gold 2497 currently in the collection of the Patek Philippe Museum is also ftted with a Vichet case with case serial number only fve digits later than the present lot, with a movement serial number 11 digits later. A fascinating detail of the present lot is the movement number: 888’008. The number eight has long held great signifcance in most of the world’s religions and cultures, as well as architecture, music, and mathematics. In both Hinduism and Chinese culture, the number eight signifes wealth, while in Islam, eight signifes the number of angels that carry the throne of Allah in heaven. In Buddhism, the Noble Eightfold Path is a list of eight tenets that one must keep to in order to escape the cycle of rebirth. The present Patek Philippe reference 2497 has not appeared on the auction market since it was frst sold twenty-two years ago, and it has clearly been carefully treasured in the intervening decades. Preserved in exceptional condition, with a crisp case having developed a beautiful rainbow-colored patina from lack of wear, it is a worthy addition for a distinguished collection of complicated vintage Patek Philippe watches.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2497
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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
81.
Rolex – A well-preserved and rare stainless steel anti-magnetic wristwatch with center seconds, black dial, caseback sticker, bracelet, additional silver dial, original punched guarantee, and original presentation box Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
1019, inside case back stamped 1019 III.68
Movement No.
M’711’858
Case No.
2’626’181
Model Name
Milgauss
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78360, end links stamped no. 558, max length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, reference 78360, stamped F for 1981
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $30,000-50,000 O €26,100-43,400 Accessories Accompanied by additional silver dial, punched guarantee papers from Schaap en Citroen Juweliers B.V. in Amsterdam, product literature, hang tag, original inner and outer box, with the serial number attached to the outer box. Literature The present reference 1019 is documented and illustrated in 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, p. 183.
The Milgauss is the result of a direct collaboration between Rolex and the Geneva-based nuclear-research organization, CERN - Centre Européen de Recherche Nucléaire (European Organization for Nuclear Research). Their aim was to develop a wristwatch that could withstand intense magnetic felds. In the early 1960s, the newly introduced Rolex Milgauss reference 1019, like the present lot, replaced the original two versions: references 6541 and 6543. Signifcantly thinner than its predecessors, it was manufactured until 1990 and was available only in stainless steel. The present watch is ftted with a fawless black matte dial that permits the desirable red “Milgauss” text at 12 o’clock to vividly stand out. An exceptional and complete example preserved in outstanding condition, it retains all its sharp edges and bevels. The presence of the original Rolex sticker on the case back suggests that this watch was rarely worn. Attesting to the quality of the present lot, it was selected as an exemplary example of the reference in John Goldberger’s tome, 100 Superlative Rolex Watches. Accompanied by its original guarantee, box and hangtag, as well as an additional silver Milgauss dial, it is a great fnd for the connoisseur of vintage wristwatches
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ROLEX Ref. 1019 Milgauss
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9. Après-ski Reaching peak style on the slopes
Skiing’s status as the world’s most fashionable high society sport is said to go back 150 years, when St Moritz started to accrue a reputation as the Alpine playground for the wealthy and famous. So it’s no surprise that so much is written about which jackets, goggles and other paraphernalia might elevate one’s on-piste status to somewhere near the peak. But what to change into once those downhill blades have been leant against the wall for the day? In a way, après-ski is a leveller: the part of the daily schedule when the snow- ploughing novices and those who have spent the day shredding the double black diamond runs congregate on a level playing feld. This is your chance to get ahead of the game sartorially, however modest your abilities with a strip of low-friction carbon fbre between your feet and an icy gradient. The aesthetic aim should be to look in-situ - to ft into an ultra-cosy and social environment - yet distinctive from the many revelers who will, in their hurry to get to the gluhwein kettle, have gone no further than removing their salopette straps from their shoulders. Practical considerations, meanwhile, include warm footwear and glove-friendly fastening devices for outdoor events, while layering is a great way to a) cope with highly varied temperatures and b) rock a contrasting look to the sporty, padded two-piece one you’ve donned all day on the slopes. Here are two ensembles that’ll impress your fellow aching revelers from Courchevel to Nozawa Onsen via Aspen.
Lots 82 to 91 Half a day’s journey through icy mountain passes will bring you, shaken from your hair-raising drive, to another exquisite alpine destination. Nestled in the Dolomites of Northern Italy, Cortina d’Ampezzo has hosted the Winter Olympics and starred in James Bond movies. Its slew of resorts and access to some of the best snow sports in Europe has made it a premium destination for those looking to excel on the slopes and of. Those who travel to an alpine jewel such as this must select watches robust enough to weather freezing temperatures and double black diamond runs but with the appropriate versatility to accompany a warm drink and a casual tour of the boutiques. A tool watch from brands such as Rolex, Omega, or Heuer is the logical choice when choosing a timepiece to brave the slopes of the Alps or the Rockies – perhaps even a waterproof chronograph nicknamed afer one of the greatest skiers of all time, Jean-Claude Killy. For a more luxurious look, an oversized yellow gold chronograph with black dial from Patek Philippe is a sure bet.
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Maker xxxxxx Watch xxxxxx
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9. Après-ski
Mr Porter’s look
Lot 86 Patek Philippe. Nautilus reference 3700/1, stainless steel, circa 1980
A hygge approach to haute-fashion, here, perfect for a winter wonderland. The look is spearheaded by a zipped cardigan in premium cashmere blend – a thinking man’s Christmas jumper, basically – from Brunello Cucinelli. The Canali roll-neck sweater, knitted in Italy from sof woollen yarns, has a pleasingly tactile feel (this garment is another men’s wardrobe staple: a few of these will hike up your wardrobe’s potential permutations immeasurably, and are great for overseas travel). Another Italian purveyor of world-beating fabrics, Loro Piana, have here provided the multi-seasonal, fnely waled corduroy trousers in beige. Moncler’s beanie in water-resistant virgin wool yarns is the look’s crowning glory, while Sorel's heavy-duty ‘Madson’ hiking boots with rubber lug soles ensure a steady footing both literally and sartorially: Moscot’s ‘Spiel’ sunglasses, with clip-on UV Lenses – making them perfect for twilight – are the piste-de-resistance. Tim Burton and Jef Goldblum are among afcionados of this New York-based eyewear specialist.
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Cardigan by Brunello Cucinelli Roll neck by Canali Trousers by Loro Piana Beanie by Moncler Sunglasses by Thom Browne Boots by Sorel
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The Rake’s look
Lot 87 Vacheron Constantin. Turnograph reference 6782, 18K yellow gold, circa 1970
Your outerwear is going to be a major talking point when trying to bring a level of chic associated with the streets of Milan to the peaks that rise to the north of it. Once your top layer is shed though – and we’d heartily endorse the fact that (paradox alert) highly dandy ski-jackets are out there – you’ll need to prove that your style smarts go beyond the superfcial. A good head start is provided here by Irish knitwear company Inis Meáin, whose oyster grey trellis-knit merino wool jumper underlies the Grenfell gilet with supportingrole élan. Alps & Meters are behind a pair of trousers which, being rendered from a wool-and-water repellent fabric (they also have a waterproof membrane lining) and boasting an inseam ventilation and waterproof pockets, would easily serve you on the slopes too. The boots, in almond-grained calf leather with a shearling lining and a Dainite rubber sole with excellent grip by Cheaney, will prove the perfect antidote to a day in ski boots.
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Gilet by Grenfell Roll neck lnis Meain Trousers by Alps & Meters Boots by Cheaney
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9. Après-ski
82.
Omega – A very fne and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with “Broad Arrow” hands
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1959
Reference No.
2913-3
Movement No.
16’038’288, movement further stamped “OXG”
Model Name
Seamaster 300
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 500, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $15,000-25,000 €13,000-21,700 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present timepiece on March 12, 1959 and its subsequent sale to the United States. Literature A similar example of a reference 2913-3 is illustrated in John Goldberger’s Omega Sportswatches, pp. 46-47.
The Seamaster line is the longest-running series of Omega models still in production today. Its origin dates back to 1948 when, celebrating the 100th anniversary of the brand, a new wristwatch model was released for the occasion. Featuring robust water resistance capabilities, this was a civilian adaptation of technologies developed during wartime. These early Seamasters still maintained the design typical of post-war, time-only wristwatches such as a smaller case diameter and delicate architectural elements.
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The early 1950s saw global population growth beginning to emerge from the shadow of World War II, a boom in the international economy and technical innovation, and a growing public desire for leisure activities. Fittingly, it also saw the birth of iconic tool watches such as the Rolex Submariner, the Blancpain Fify Fathoms, and the Zodiac Sea Wolf. A few years later, in 1957, Omega joined the fray, introducing their now-celebrated “Holy Trinity” of professional timepieces: the Speedmaster (ref. CK2915) for timing industrial production, the Railmaster (ref. CK2914) for engineering and other specialized work in magnetized environment, and indeed the Seamaster 300 (ref. 2913, exemplifed by the present lot) for diving. These three models are considered so iconic and landmark, that last year (2017) a re-edition of all three was issued by Omega to overwhelming acclaim from the collector community. This early third iteration of the frst generation of the Omega Seamaster 300, reference 2913-3, is almost identical to the frst and second iteration, the references 2914-1 and -2. Produced in 1959, it sports the same “Broad Arrow” handset, triangle indexes, and bimetallic rotating bezel in its original Bakelite. With its O-ring gasket and screw-down caseback providing water resistance, the Omega Seamaster 300 was able to withstand depths of up to 300 meters; in fact, it is known to have reached 365 meters. Though sometimes seen with the lollipop seconds hands, advertisements of the time show that the model was ofered without the lollipop seconds hand, as is the case with the present lot. Future generations of Seamaster would take myriad forms, but nothing can quite compete with the original.
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OMEGA Ref. 2913-3 Seamaster 300
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9. Après-ski
83.
Rolex – An early, very attractive and well-preserved stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with glossy gilt dial, bracelet, and pointed crown guards
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1961
Reference No.
5512, inside caseback stamped III.61
Movement No.
94’195
Case No.
693’224
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1530, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, max length 230mm, end links stamped 80
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.61
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $20,000-30,000 €17,400-26,100 Accessories Accompanied with its original Rolex box, original crystal and gasket.
Though the frst Rolex Submariners were produced in 1953, and released afer their debut at Basel in 1954 with the references 6200, 6204, and 6205 (diferences in movements used and water resistance diferentiated each), the reference 5512 was the frst Submariner reference to feature now-ubiquitous crown guards. Developed as a tool watch, the Submariner was marketed to commercial and recreational divers. The
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addition of the crown guards made the watch more robust, protecting the watch crown from unintentional damage. Like many intricacies of collecting vintage Rolex wristwatches, the various iterations of crown guards have developed their own nicknames and followings as the design evolved. The earliest were square-shaped, of which it is estimated very few exist. The subsequent generation featured crown guards that are also sometimes known as “eagle beak” due to their resemblance to the mandibles of the bird of prey. They were quickly replaced by less beaklike crown guards, known simply as pointed crown guards (sometimes abbreviated by collectors as PCG), as found on the present example. These early Submariners were ftted with stunning black glossy dials and featured either two or four lines of text at 6 o’clock with gilt printing in either silver or gold (or both). By the late-1960s, the crown guards were changed to a rounder design that is still in use today. Exceptional details present on this example make it a highly coveted reference 5512 – especially its stunning, nearly perfectly preserved glossy dial. The silver gilt outer seconds track, referred to as a “chapter ring” by collectors, is emblematic of these early examples, matching the correct silver gilt two-lines of text found at 6 o’clock. Considering the strong case with beautiful, factory-original bevels still seen on the lugs is completed with its original and well preserved Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet stamped from the second quarter of 1961, it is safe to say that this reference 5512 has spent the past half century sitting mostly unused in a drawer rather than seeing frequent wear.
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ROLEX Ref. 5512 Submariner
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9. Après-ski
84.
Rolex – A very attractive and rare stainless steel triple calendar chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1959
Reference No.
6236
Case No.
384’210
Model Name
Oyster Chronograph, “Jean-Claude Killy”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72C, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster expandable bracelet, end links stamped 57, max overall length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 4.64
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $150,000-250,000 O €130,000-217,000 Accessories With green leather Rolex presentation box Literature A similar reference 6236 in stainless steel is illustrated in 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, by John Goldberger, pp. 156 and 157.
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From 1947 until 1962, Rolex produced a series of rare and innovative triple calendar chronograph wristwatches. These included the references 4767, 5036, 3036 and 6236. Produced in very limited numbers, they were made in yellow and pink gold, as well as stainless steel. Initially known as the Dato-Compax, today they are more generally referred to as the “Jean-Claude Killy”, named afer the three time French Olympic ski champion, who was ofen seen wearing a model 6236 like the present timepiece. Over the course of the model’s 15 years of production, Rolex modifed both the case and dial for a more refned, cleaner look with the reference 6236 being the fnal model of the series, featuring a three-piece case with a larger, more prominent bezel. The present example is very well-preserved with a beautiful and original dial highlighted by the outer blue calendar ring with closed 6 and 9 numerals and embossed Rolex crown at the 12 position. The double faceted, polished numerals embossed in relief have aged nicely through the years with the luminous hour markers and hands aging to a lovely light brownish hue. Today’s collectors are seeking timepieces that not only defne their collection, but help establish the historical timeline of a brand. A “Jean-Claude Killy” is an important step in the evolution of any collection – a “must-have” trophy watch for discerning connoisseurs seeking to own one of the most prestigious and complicated watches ever made by Rolex.
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ROLEX Ref. 6236 “Jean-Claude Killy”
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9. Après-ski
85.
Heuer – An early, very fne, and rare stainless steel square-shaped chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
1969
Reference No.
1133B
Case No.
157’873, further stamped Tool No. 033
Model Name
Monaco, “Chronomatic”
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 12, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Heuer stainless steel bracelet, max overall length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Heuer stainless steel deployant buckle
Dimensions
45.5mm overall length, 44mm width
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $12,000-18,000 €10,400-15,600
Launched in 1969, the Heuer Monaco was one of the frst automatic chronograph wristwatches available in the market. Along with the self-winding Zenith El Primero, these chronograph watches were at the forefront of innovative design and technology of the 1960s and 1970s. The oversized square-shaped case, manufactured by Ervin Piquerez SA (EPSA), with lef-handed winding and setting crown were
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unique features designed by Jack Heuer, and while a completely new concept at the time, today this model has become an icon known for its contemporary look and feel. The watch gained notoriety when Steve McQueen wore an example in the classic racing flm “Le Mans”. The present example features a rare and hardly ever seen transitional dial, made even more desirable due to its unpolished case. The very frst examples of the model featured the wording “Chronomatic” at the top of the dial with the “Monaco” signature at the bottom. Early on, the Monaco’s dial layout changed and “Monaco” was moved to the top, with the wording “Automatic Chronograph” added to the bottom. The “transitional” dial of the present lot stands out with its dynamic midnight blue color with brushed fnish that yields a myriad of colors with diferent lighting angles. It is ftted with early polished stainless steel hands with square-tipped ends, compared with the polished steel hands with triangular red tipped hands seen on slightly later examples. The mid-20th century is widely considered the Golden Age of chronograph wristwatches, and this uniquely designed Monaco is an exceptional example for the discerning collector.
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HEUER Ref. 1133B Monaco “Transitional”
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9. Après-ski
86.
Patek Philippe – A very attractive, rare and well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1980
Reference No.
3700/1
Movement No.
1’309’500
Case No.
539’312
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28”255 C, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $50,000-100,000 €43,400-86,900 Accessories Accompanied by original cork box and service history documentation. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1980 and its subsequent sale on September 15th, 1981.
The result of a collaboration between Patek Philippe and designer Gerald Genta, the Nautilus’ unique appearance was inspired by maritime portholes and named for Captain Nemo’s submarine, the Nautilus, in Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. Much as the fctional nautical vessel was described as “a masterpiece containing masterpieces,” so does the Nautilus wristwatch possess a numerous variety of artistic cues. The reference 3700/1 embodies every aspect of Patek Philippe’s avant-garde design philosophy of the 1970s,
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from the bold yet elegant curves, to the contrasting fnish of the case, and even the delicate grooves of the dial culminating in a sublimely robust and elegant wristwatch. Advertisements from the era trumpeted the Nautilus’ status as one of the most expensive steel wristwatches, and proclaimed “Like the great swords of another age, Nautilus took shape between the skilled hands of master crafsmen.” Evidence suggests that of all Genta’s iconic designs, the Nautilus was his favorite and he perhaps regarded it as his most timeless. Owing to a thinner caliber, the 3700/1 retains a slimmer profle than its 21st century descendent, the 5711/1A, introduced on the 40th anniversary of the 3700 in 2006. The caliber 28-255 was based on the legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre JLC 920, heavily modifed by Patek Philippe. At the time it was the world’s thinnest automatic movement with date, measuring only 3.05mm thick. The “Jumbo” moniker refers to the 42mm case, which was certainly oversized for the era. While it was initially not well received, its popularity quickly grew, and has been a mainstay of Patek Philippe’s collection until the present day. Patek Philippe produced two versions of the Nautilus ref 3700 in steel: 3700/1 from 1976 to about 1981 featuring a straight bracelet as is the present lot, and reference 3700/11, in production from 1981 to 1990, with a tapered steel bracelet. The present lot manufactured in 1980 is a premium example in superb condition, with a well preserved case, immaculate dial, and taut bracelet that is certain to delight a collector. It comes accompanied with the Nautilus’s famous original cork box – a highly collectible and sought afer accessory in its own right.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3700/1 Nautilus “Jumbo”
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9. Après-ski
87.
Vacheron Constantin – A very rare and highly attractive yellow gold wristwatch with rotating bezel, original guarantee, and box.
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1970
Reference No.
6782
Movement No.
626’738
Case No.
458’556
Model Name
Turnograph
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. K 1072, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Vacheron Constantin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $12,000-18,000 O €10,400-15,600 Accessories Accompanied by original guarantee confrming sale of the present watch on October 10th, 1971 and original presentation box. Furthermore accompanied by Extract from the Archives confrming manufacture in 1970.
Most watch companies can be classifed according to their typical output: from manufacturers specialized in high-end complicated pieces and dress watches (such as Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe) to companies devoted to professional wristwatches (for example, Rolex or Omega), it is undeniable that most brands have some sort of core specialization which in turn becomes part of their identity.
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When a brand steps outside of that comfort zone, the result is most ofen a very scarce and highly collectible model. The Rolex references 6062 and 8171 with triple calendar and moon phase indications are two examples. The extremely elusive Vacheron Constantin reference 6782 Turnograph, the present lot, is another. With a rich heritage characterized by elegant dress watches, Vacheron Constantin’s production of sport/ tool pieces is nowadays extremely restricted, and in the 1950s was virtually nonexistent. That is, until the release of the “Turnograph”, nicknamed as such due to its similarities to the Rolex reference 1625. Rather thick for dress watches of the time, it features a waterproof case and rotating bezel to measure elapsed time. However, even though it can be classifed as a sports watch, the design cues are still undeniably of Vacheron Constantin, with a luxurious champagne dial, refned milling on the bezel, and an 18K gold decorated rotor stamped with the Geneva seal. While the overall production numbers for the reference cannot be confrmed, it appears to be a very rare timepiece judging by the frequency of its appearance on the market. Since production was so low, it is even more interesting that dial layouts and design tend to vary between examples. The present example features baton indexes and a matching baton handset inlaid with black to increase legibility. This is an extremely beautiful and well-preserved timepiece, further enhanced by its accompanying original ftted box and guarantee.
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN Ref. 6782 “Turnograph”
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9. Après-ski
88.
Patek Philippe – A very fne, rare, and oversized yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with certifcate of origin and ftted presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1999
Reference No.
5070J-001
Movement No.
3’146’500
Case No.
4’068’664
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27-70 CHR, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $40,000-60,000 Σ €34,700-52,100 Accessories Accompanied by Certifcate of Origin indicating it was sold by Rüschenbeck KG, product literature, leather wallet, inner and outer presentation box. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archive indicating sale of the present timepiece on November 30th, 1999.
The Patek Philippe reference 5070 was the frst chronographonly wristwatch released by the frm since the 1960s when production of the iconic water resistant reference 1463 ceased. Introduced in 1998 at Basel, it was something of a shock to collectors that Patek would choose to reintroduce their chronograph-only line in such bold fashion – particularly the oversized 42mm case diameter and the dramatically thick, stepped bezel. First released in 18K yellow gold with a black
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dial, such as the present example, the manufacture drew inspiration for the design of the 5070 from a unique, splitseconds chronograph wristwatch from the early 1950s: the extraordinary reference 2512, which measured at an incredible 46.2mm in diameter with infuences from the Art Deco period and large aviator’s watches. The reference 2512 is currently housed in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. Later produced in white gold, rose gold, and platinum, the yellow gold reference 5070, was discontinued soon afer its launch, yet is the most faithful to the original design inspiration, the 2512, as it features the same yellow gold case material and black dial color. Even the applied yellow gold Arabic numerals echo the mirrored numerals on the original reference. The movement powering the 5070, the calibre 27-70, is based on the Lemania 2310 – signifcantly modifed by Patek Philippe. An ébauche used famously as the Omega caliber 321, powering Omega Speedmasters from their inception in 1957 until the fnal reference 145.012 in 1969, the Lemania 2310 is a column wheel chronograph with a distinctive “wishbone” shaped bridge, used by many brands since it frst created by Albert Piguet and Jaques Reymond in 1942. In its current form as the caliber 27-70, it features exceptional fnishing by Patek Philippe in their typical style, and is stamped with the prestigious Geneva Seal. Preserved in virtually untouched condition, it’s a superb example for the connoisseur, presented complete with its original boxes, pamphlets and certifcate of origin.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5070J
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9. Après-ski
89.
Rolex – An extremely rare, very fne, and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6264, inside caseback stamped 6239
Case No.
2’417’911
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona, “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference number 7835/19, end links stamped no. 271, max length 215mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 3.70
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $200,000-400,000 €174,000-347,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex ftted presentation box and outer box. Literature A similar example of a reference 6264 with “Paul Newman” dial is illustrated in The Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, pp. 308-309.
Amongst all of the Cosmograph Daytonas, the reference 6264 is considered to be one of the rarest and most exclusive of all Daytona models made by Rolex. In production for a few years in the early 1970s, its release coincided with that of the reference 6262. While physically similar to their predecessor references 6239 and 6241, references 6262 and 6264 were ftted with the upgraded
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Valjoux movement caliber 727. The two references are nearly identical, except for the bezels. The steel bezel on the 6262 bezel is engraved, whereas the 6264 sports a highly resistant acrylic ring with tachometer scale printed in white. Both models would be the last to feature pump pushers, as the introduction of the of screw-down pushers cemented the design of the watch, and made it worthy of Rolex’s “Oyster” moniker as would be seen in the references 6263 and 6265. The rarest of all regular production Daytona models, it is believed that only some 1,700 examples in stainless steel were ever made of reference 6264. The present watch is ftted with a beautiful “Paul Newman” dial, which is instantly recognizable due to its deco-style numerals within the sub registers. While Paul Newman himself donned an exotic dial reference 6239, his name is forever synonymous with exotic dialed Cosmograph wristwatches. The black on white grené dial, coupled with red “Daytona” text, makes for an incredibly eye-catching and attractive wristwatch. The luminous dots have aged to a pleasing warm yellow tone. Presented in exceptional condition, this example boasts a crisp case with its sharp, factory fnishing intact and robust proportions. The white grené dial is equally stunning with no imperfections and intact luminous hour markers that have aged uniformly to a pleasing vanilla color. It furthermore retains its original and correct Mark I bezel, which is incredibly sought afer today. Very few reference 6264 Daytonas surface publicly, and the discerning collector is sure to appreciate the quality, condition, and aesthetic appeal of this premium example.
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ROLEX Ref. 6264 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
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9. Après-ski
90.
Movado – A very attractive and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with blue tachymeter scale and bracelet
Manufacturer
Movado
Year
Circa 1966
Reference No.
95 704 568
Case No.
1918
Model Name
Sub-Sea
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. C 95 M, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Movado bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant clasp
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $7,000-14,000 €6,100-12,200
Founded in 1881 in La Chaux de Fonds, Movado established its reputation as a high quality movement manufacturer, designing, testing and assembling their own movements under one roof. Following World War II, only a handful of brands were capable of producing in-house movements, with most brands purchasing ébauches and fnishing them to their specifcations.
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Movado’s Sub-Sea model was the brand’s water resistant chronograph wristwatch, using their C 95 M chronograph caliber and a Taubert & Fils-made case. Taubert was a respected case maker specializing in water-resistant cases - supplying them to some of Switzerland’s most prestigious brands. Taubert & Fils cases are found on many well-known stainless steel models, including Patek Philippe’s reference 1463 chronograph and the time-only reference 565. Though Taubert & Fils purchased François Borgel’s case-making company in 1924, it is interesting to note the frm never changed their maker’s mark, and today Taubert & Filssupplied cases still feature the “FB” hallmark. The present watch is in superb condition, with a wellpreserved case and bracelet showing little signs of wear. This is reinforced by the sharp lugs and crisp lines observed throughout the case. Later Movado Sub-Seas would become increasingly bolder and sportier, to adjust to the evolving aesthetics of the 1960s and 1970s, but the current example combines the best of the early-mid century with later masculine elements. The eggshell white dial contrasts beautifully with the robin’s egg blue of the tachymeter dial still vibrant afer over half a century of existence.
26/10/18 09:57
MOVADO Ref. 95 Sub-Sea
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9. Après-ski
91.
Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date and “ofcer”-style hinged caseback with certifcate of origin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1999
Reference No.
5059G-015
Movement No.
1’958’000
Case No.
4’066’560
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 315 S-QR, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $30,000-50,000 Σ €26,100-43,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin confrming its sale by Bartorelli Gioielli in Fabriano, Italy on December 18th, 1999, product literature, leather wallet, numbered envelope, inner box, and outer box. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archive indicating production of this timepiece in 1999 and its subsequent sale on October 22nd, 1999.
The reference 5950 was introduced in 1998 to replace the previous reference 5050, the frst serially produced perpetual calendar with a retrograde date by Patek Philippe. Discontinued in 2006, it was produced in all four precious metals and is particularly noteworthy for its “ofcer”-style hinged caseback and elongated lugs with screwed pins. Though the case diameter measures 36 millimeters, the shape and size of the lugs, as well as the thickness of the case and its domed bezel, give the 5059 a signifcant presence on the wrist. Cased in white gold, it is particularly elegant and sublime, even more so given the stark white dial contrasted with the painted black Roman numerals. As it was originally sold in Italy, the day and month are featured in Italian – a rarity for the reference. The reference 5050 and 5950 share the sophisticated, self-winding caliber 315 S-QR with its striking 21K gold rotor, based on the caliber 315 SC featuring center seconds only. A robust and state-of-the-art in-house movement, it features an intriguing retrograding date complication as part of its perpetual calendar function. At the end of each month, the date hand automatically fies back to its original starting point – a very difcult function to reliably implement in watchmaking. Presented in remarkable overall condition with all of its original boxes, papers, and certifcate of origin, this reference 5059 in 18K white gold is an elegant and versatile watch suitable for any occasion.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5059G
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10. Wedding When style goes hand in hand
Assuming your nuptials don’t entail either morning dress or black tie – and, let’s be truthful, the former in particular is likely to mean your big day is partly kitted out by local hire shops – then the plethora of choice you have here is generous. Silks, satins, linens, velvets, wools, worsteds, tweeds – all are amongst your sartorial arsenal. With jackets, navy is – as always – a great utility player, and will likely give you a defned silhouette assuming lighter backgrounds and surrounds prevail (ofen the case in a wedding venue). That said, lighter tones have an appropriately buoyant and congenial tone to them, and as such complement the kind of socks, ties and squares in pastel colours that are so ofen the smart choice for wedding attire (although these can also be an opportunity to throw in a gentle splash of chromatic famboyance). Whatever your choices with suit or blazer/trousers combo, it’s widely considered wise to opt for matte over shiny: lightrefection on a Summer’s day is not ideal, and not just in terms of the photos. With shoes, your wedding day is a time you are permitted to leave your patent leather oxfords and derbys in the wardrobe, and consider brogues, semi-brogues and monkstraps as well as suedes or exotic leathers. You may even be able to carry of the sockless loafer approach: but beware of ultratraditional in-laws. All in all, as with many other areas of life, calculated restraint is the key.
Lots 92 to 101 Ofen, a groom is gifed a wristwatch by his bride on the occasion of his wedding, marking this momentous event in his life. It will serve to remind the groom of his wedding day each time he glances down at his wrist while providing a memento to pass down through future generations. This tradition is seeing a resurgence as of late, with watches even replacing rings as tokens of everlasting commitment. Whether it’s a gif from a loving bride, or a watch worn by the groom’s best man, the watch selected for such an occasion should be timelessly elegant, memorable, and refect the sensibilities of the person who will wear it. An Omega manually-wound chronograph wristwatch from the 1930s balances sophistication and utility, and even includes “something blue” on the telemeter scale, just like a more modern alternative - a classic, Catier Tortue monopusher chronograph with blue dial graphics. A beautifully wrought skeletonized Breguet tourbillon in 18 karat yellow gold (also with blued steel accents) makes a memorable companion for an incredibly special day.
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10. Wedding
Mr Porter’s look
Lot 93 Breguet. Tourbillon Squelette reference 3355, 18K yellow gold, circa 2005
Light grey is again the (rightful) default choice here, but with a full suit made from pliable mohair and wool-blend by British style experts Dunhill. The lightweight material and silk-lined sleeves guarantee comfort until etiquette allows you to place it on the back of your chair at the dinner table. The Canali tie – thin (6cm), striped, knitted wool – is a wittily subtle deviation from convention, especially when paired with the printed wool and yak blend pocket square from Anderson & Sheppard’s Cliford Street haberdashery and Brioni’s D-frame tortoiseshell acetate and gunmetaltone sunglasses (the Italian brand’s eye-wear range is well worth a closer look, incidentally). No-nonsense, understated elegance with the fundamentals brings the whole back down to earth: so a round of applause to George Cleverley (for the full-grain leather penny loafers) and Berluti (for a classic leather belt that would pair with the vast majority of garments you own).
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Suit by Dunhill Shirt by SALLE PRIVÉE Tie by Canali Pocket square by Anderson & Sheppard Belt by Berluti Sunglasses by Brioni Loafers by George Cleverley
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The Rake’s look
Lot 101 Patek Philippe. Calatrava reference 570 with champagne dial, 18K white gold, circa 1964
Nothing shouts ‘Tasteful nuptials’ like pastel colours mixed with light grey: and New & Lingwood’s pink tie (interlined with wool to boost drape and knot appearance) co-operate beautifully with the same company’s ribbed cotton socks in lavender - although you could expend hours in their Jermyn Street emporium, playing with colour combinations which will all work perfectly. The three-piece suit here - a glorious triumvirate of garments proving that grey really deserves a better press - comes courtesy of Cifonelli: the Italian-sounding but Paris-based brand whose exquisite signature rolled sleeve-head technique once prompted Karl Lagerfeld to surmise, “I could recognise a Cifonelli shoulder from a distance of 100 meters.” Antique brown capped-toe Cleverley’s steer things further from staid convention, ably assisted by a silk pocket square from Rubinacci – whose arty works in this department warrant serious investigation for those who take clothing seriously.
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Suit by Cifonelli Shirt by Turnbull & Asser Tie by Emma Willis Pocket square by Rubinacci Socks by The London Sock Company Shoes by Edward Green
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10. Wedding
92.
Rolex – A rare and pristine stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, with guarantee, literature, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1998
Reference No.
16520
Case No.
A’306’558
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78390A, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped X5
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $12,000-18,000 €10,400-15,600 Accessories Accompanied by original stamped guarantee paper, product literature, leather wallet, hang tag, inner and outer box.
Rolex surprised the public at the 1988 Basel Fair by introducing the frst self-winding chronograph model in its history. The newly launched reference 16520 was powered by a derivative of Zenith’s El Primero caliber, though substantially modifed by Rolex. It was the frst Daytona to be equipped with a sapphire crystal and upgraded to a new larger diameter of 40mm.
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The launch of the 16520 was an immediate success, resulting in unprecedented demand that would require clients to have to wait as long as seven years to purchase one. History would repeat itself in 2016 with the introduction of the ceramic bezel Daytona reference 116500. This was quite in contrast to the initial lukewarm response of the manually-wound Daytona, frst introduced in 1963. Ease of use, accuracy, and a larger, sportier look all added to the new automatic Daytona’s desirability. The present reference 16520, a so-called “A-series” from between 1998 and 1999, has survived the past two decades in “New Old Stock” untouched condition. It is ofered complete with its original warranty, multiple product literature booklets, hang tags, and both inner and outer boxes. The complete and immaculate state of preservation of this sought afer Zenith-based Daytona is sure to be a collector’s delight.
26/10/18 09:59
ROLEX Ref. 16520 “New Old Stock”
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10. Wedding
93.
Breguet – A fne and attractive yellow gold skeletonized tourbillon wristwatch with presentation box
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
Circa 2005
Reference No.
3355
Movement No.
750
Case No.
2381
Model Name
Classique Complications Tourbillon Squelette
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 55B SQ1, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Breguet crocodile strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Breguet buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $30,000-50,000 Σ €26,100-43,400 Accessories With green leather Breguet presentation box, loupe, and outer packaging.
On June 26, 1801, a momentous horological event occurred when Abraham-Louis Breguet was issued a patent for his tourbillon regulator. The history of time has always centered on precision timing and watchmakers over the centuries have developed means to combat the multitude of factors
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afecting it, including temperature and magnetism, position and gravity. Breguet sought to minimize gravity’s efects when he observed it greatly infuenced the delicate workings of the heart of the watch, the escapement. The tourbillon is a rotating cage within which the escapement is mounted. As it rotates, the positional errors of the movement are averaged out improving the overall precision of the watch. While the patent was issued in 1801, it was not until 1805 that commercialized examples became available, and it has remained over the last 200 years very much the same as when Breguet frst revealed it. The tourbillon is one of the most sought afer complications found on watches today, attractive both for the elegance of its design and technical innovation. The present skeletonized wristwatch is iconic Breguet with classic clean lines. The watch has both form and function for it not only tells time, but can also be considered a work of art. The highly engraved skeletonized mechanical movement allows for the tourbillon to shine through and be viewed from all angles. The design is enhanced by the twenty second arched counter at 6 o’clock, which is brilliantly read via the three prong seconds hand attached to the one minute tourbillon cage. The watch makes a wonderful timepiece for special events and is a lovely example of centuries old crafsmanship and mechanical mastery.
26/10/18 10:00
BREGUET Ref. 3355 Tourbillon Squelette
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26/10/18 10:00
10. Wedding
94.
Rolex – An early, well preserved, and rare yellow gold dual time wristwatch with date, no crown guards, riveted bracelet, punched papers and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1964
Reference No.
1675
Movement No.
D82’843
Case No.
1’084’774
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K gold Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 80, max overall length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K gold Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 8.78
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $30,000-50,000 €26,100-43,400 Accessories Accompanied with punched Rolex guarantee, Rolex green leather presentation box, and hang tag.
Early examples of yellow gold reference 1675 GMT Master are a rarity. The immediate successor to the frst generation GMT-Master reference 6542, this timepiece was used by pilots and aircraf personnel to keep track of diferent timezones during their travels. Designed as a tool watch, the vast majority were accordingly made in steel. Gold examples are therefore not only rare but provide a delightful element of famboyance and self-confdence for the wearer.
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Rolex introduced the now iconic GMT-Master dual time wristwatch in 1954, developed with Pan American Airlines for both pilots and the jet-set. By 1959, Rolex upgraded the model and introduced the new reference 1675, which now had crown guards to prevent damage to the crown, and the fragile Bakelike bezel insert was replaced with a more resilient metal insert. The gold version of reference 1675, however, did not feature crown guards for another few years, such as the present example. This early and extremely attractive yellow gold GMTMaster, preserved in remarkable condition, is therefore a rare transitional model. Featuring rare and early luminous leaf hands, the watch’s attractiveness is further enhanced by a vibrant grené dial with gold, cupshaped luminous hour markers referred to by collectors as “bicchierini”. Ofered with its original punched papers and presentation box, this hardly worn example retains its crisp bevels and factory fnishing, with a dark brown bezel giving it stunning wrist presence. Gold reference 1675s are already quite rare. Yet, examples in such superb condition, without crown guards and complete with its original guarantee ofer not only wearability and style for the collector, but also enduring value.
26/10/18 10:00
ROLEX Ref. 1675 GMT-Master “No Crown Guard”
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10. Wedding
95.
Patek Philippe – A very fne, rare, and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1968
Reference No.
1463
Movement No.
869’227, movement further stamped “HOX”
Case No.
2’647’886
Model Name
“Tasti Tondi”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
34.5mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $120,000-240,000 €104,000-208,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the watch in 1968 and subsequent sale on June 12, 1968.
One can say that reference 1463 was Patek Philippe’s frst sports chronograph designed for a modern society with an increasing interest in outdoor activities. Designed with a second inner case which shielded the movement against magnetism, it was a robust watch suitable for industrial use in scientifc and medical environments. Each featured a tensided screw-down caseback and playful rounded chronograph pushers, known as “Tasti Tondi” in Italian.
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One of the last examples of the reference 1463 ever produced by Patek Philippe, therefore one of the last chronograph-only watches produced by the manufacture until the introduction of the reference 5070 in 1998, the present lot features a rare dial confguration with tachymeter scale only and no railway minute divisions. Featuring the raised, hard enamel print that afcionados of vintage Patek Philippe watches adore, the dial is stunning both for its immaculate condition and clean design. The movement is stamped “HOX”, indicating it was delivered to the American market. Another example of a late 1463, only two case numbers and movement numbers away from this particular example, was sold by Phillips in 2016 and bears the retailer signature “Cartier” as it was sold at the Cartier boutique on 5th Avenue in Manhattan. That watch, bearing case number 2’647’885, bears the same purchase date as the present lot – June 12th, 1968. The last examples of the 1463, it seems, found themselves in the hands of American collectors. The present lot is preserved in superb overall condition, having developed a pleasing patina on its case – an indication the watch was hardly worn or handled, likely spending many years stored untouched.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi”
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10. Wedding
96.
Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare pink gold limited edition rectangular wristwatch, made to commemorate the opening of Patek Philippe’s watchmaking center in 1997, retailed by Tifany & Co.
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1997
Reference No.
5500R
Movement No.
1’858’550
Case No.
4’014’395
Model Name
Pagoda
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 215, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
40mm length x 26mm width
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $15,000-25,000 Σ €13,000-21,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin confrming its sale at Tifany & Co., chronometer testing certifcate, a Patek Philippe Attestation confrming limited production, commemorative plaque with medallion, and hardcover booklet discussing the 1997 commemorative timepieces. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming the production of this watch in rose gold, with an opaline dial and 11 applied rose gold Roman numerals, as well as sale on August 7th, 1997.
The creation of something new based on designs of the past is a common occurence for special occasions in Patek Philippe history, and the watches created to commemorate the opening of their new manufacturing center in Plan-lesOuates, Geneva, in 1997, were especially well-received
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by collectors. Of these, seven were limited edition rectangular-shaped timepieces: four reference 5500 in 18K pink gold, 18K white gold, 18K yellow gold, and platinum, and three reference 4900 – the more diminutive women’s size – in 18K pink gold, 18K white gold, and 18K yellow gold. They were nicknamed “Pagoda” for the exaggerated curved lugs that extend into a wide, fat base much like the architecture of a traditional pagoda. Inextricable from Art Deco design, which also drew on the history of art and architecture in South and East Asia, the design for the 1997 “Pagoda” was based on the mid-century reference 2441. In production from 1948 until the mid-1950s, the reference 2441 has been nicknamed the “Eifel Tower” by collectors, though the Pagoda-style lugs are almost identical in architecture to those of the so-called “Eifel Tower”. The top and bottom lugs are joined by an elegantly arched bridge, which terminates in large, squared lugs. The vertical, rose gold Roman numerals further accentuate the Art Deco design origins. The reference 5500 in 18K rose gold was produced in 500 examples, with the dies and tools used to create those examples being destroyed so that they can never again be reproduced. Ofered in wonderful condition and complete with its original presentation box and literature announcing the new series of watches, this is an exclusive and highly attractive modern limited edition Patek Philippe watch for the connoisseur. Its desirability is further enhanced by the prestigious Tifany & Co. retailer signature found at 6 o’clock – making it the frst of its kind to surface at auction.
26/10/18 10:01
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5500R “Pagoda”
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10. Wedding
97.
Rolex – A fne, extremely rare, and very early stainless steel and pink gold chronograph wristwatch with salmon dial, tachymeter, and telemeter scales
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1939
Reference No.
3668
Case No.
47’948
Model Name
Monoblocco
Material
Stainless steel and 18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, Valjoux VZ, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $25,000-50,000 €21,700-43,400
Literature Similar versions of the reference 3668 can be seen in Pucci Papaleo Editore, I Cronograf Rolex – La Leggenda, pp. 194 & 198, as well as John Goldberger, 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, pp. 85 & 94.
The term “barn fnd”, just like “New Old Stock” or “mint”, can ofen be overused in the world of vintage watches. In the case of the present watch, we indeed have a true “barn fnd”, or rather, a Goodwill fnd. Discovered in a bag of assorted watches in a Goodwill store in July 2018, this reference 3668 survived almost eighty years of existence to end up being discovered by an astute connoisseur. Luckily, this watch was recognized for its outstanding quality and is now being ofered publicly for the frst time.
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Documented in literature, but rarely seen on the open market, the reference 3668 is amongst Rolex’s earliest Oyster chronographs – alongside the well-known and highly coveted reference 3525. The 3668 difers from the 3525 with its unusual precious metal bezel, thus far documented only in pink or yellow gold. The frst Oyster chronographs were released in the late 1930s, when the Second World War was ramping up in Europe, and they never attained much popularity with the public. In fact, only about thirty examples of the 3668 are believed to have been produced, making this an incredibly rare and fascinating reference. Pucci Papaleo, in his monolith publication I Cronograf Rolex – La Leggenda, comments that this specifc type of reeded bezel, with circular and rectangular hour markers, is usually seen on the “Ovetto” or “Bubbleback” type watches, such as the reference 3372. The dial is much more familiar, closely resembling that of the reference 3525, and combining both a tachymeter and telemeter scale. The dial itself is a lovely rose color, almost matching in hue to the pink gold bezel. The boldly printed inner dial and numerals, coupled with the sharp blued steel handset, make the dial both immensely charming and highly legible. Only a handful of reference 3668s have surfaced publicly in recent history, and very few in as stunning original condition as the present example. And to the best of our knowledge, none have been discovered at a local thrif shop. The present watch ofers the unique opportunity to own a truly fresh-tothe-market timepiece that adds a small link in the DNA chain of early Rolex Oyster chronograph history.
26/10/18 10:02
ROLEX Ref. 3668 “Monoblocco”
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10. Wedding
98.
Omega – A highly attractive, oversized, and very rare stainless steel multi-scale chronograph wristwatch with two-tone silver dial, and luminous numerals and hands
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1943
Reference No.
CK 2077
Movement No.
9’392’824
Case No.
10’123’440
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 33.3 CHRO, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel “beads-of-rice” bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $50,000-100,000 €43,400-86,900 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of this watch on November 29th, 1943, and its subsequent delivery to South America. Literature For a similar Omega reference CK 2077 with caliber 33.3 CHRO and stainless steel case with downturned lugs, see John Goldberger’s Omega Sportswatches, pp. 22-23
For many watch enthusiasts, their passion centers on the watch movement with the rest being window dressing. Whatever one’s preference may be, the movement is the literal heart of the watch, and the driving force for precision timekeeping. Many collectors have his or her defnitive favorites, for reasons varying from the fnishing, complexity,
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simplicity, or accuracy. Movements are beautiful, and there really is nothing quite like opening a watch to see the mechanism within. Omega’s manual-winding caliber 33.3 CHRO is an icon amongst collectors. It was launched in 1933, originally as a monopusher chronograph, however by the late 1930s, the brand redesigned it, and used the movement in some of their fnest two pusher chronographs. In 1937, the caliber was ftted into Omega’s frst water resistant chronograph watch – the reference CK 2077, a model that can be considered a turning point in the frm’s history. The present timepiece is a wonderful, early example of these water-resistant chronographs. Featuring an oversized, 38.5mm diameter case with screw-down caseback, it must be viewed as an early, multi-purpose tool watch with its multi-scale dial and robust, highly water resistant case construction. The hands and numerals are luminous, allowing for legibility in lowlight conditions, and the dial features a pulsation, tachymeter, and telemeter track. The present CK 2077 stands apart due to its exceptional condition in all aspects: case, dial, and movement. The sculpted, downturned lugs are extremely thick, having never been near a polishing wheel, with the original factory fnishing present throughout, as crisp as it lef the factory some 80 years ago. The dial is absolutely charismatic, with a mirrored hour track contrasting beautifully with the still-vivid red, blue, and black colored scales. On top of it all, the highly oversized (for the time) case allows for these many elements to exist harmoniously on the dial. This chronograph is ideal for the passionate collector who values form and function as equal partners.
26/10/18 10:03
OMEGA Ref. CK 2077
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10. Wedding
99.
Patek Philippe – A fne and rare platinum perpetual calendar split-seconds chronograph wristwatch with moon phase, certifcate of origin, and additional caseback
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1997
Reference No.
5004P
Movement No.
879’663
Case No.
4’034’169
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. CHR 27-70Q, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate $150,000-250,000 Σ O €130,000-217,000 Accessories With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated January 31, 1998 and signed Garrard The Crown Jewellers, additional hard caseback, hang tag and leather envelope. Further accompanied with Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with Arabic numerals in 1997 and its subsequent sale on January 21st, 1998.
Patek Philippe’s reference 5004 is arguably one of the brands most compelling timepieces produced. Introduced in 1996, it is a direct descendent of the classic perpetual calendar chronograph 3970, and before that the iconic reference 2499. Housed in a similar 36mm diameter case as the reference 3970, the 5004 has a thicker case due to the addition of not just a chronograph mechanism, but a rattrapante function, or split-seconds chronograph. Probably the most recognizable feature to the timepiece is the oversized crown with the addition of the split-seconds mechanism and its Lemania based movement. Considered a top collectable wristwatch today, it is a model that has a strong modern appeal with a bold look and appearance on the wearer’s wrist. The present example is well-preserved and accompanied by its original certifcate of origin and additional hard case back. The model today is discontinued however it has achieved cult status amongst Patek Philippe purists as it perfectly combines the brands signature design, highest level of complication and uncompromising approach to quality.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5004P
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10. Wedding
100.
Cartier – A fne and attractive white gold tonneau-shaped monopusher chronograph wristwatch with certifcate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 2010
Reference No.
W1525851
Case No.
No. 0031CE and 2396E
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 045MC, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
43mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $8,000-14,000 Σ €6,900-12,200 Accessories With Cartier Certifcate dated August 30, 2010, red Cartier presentation box, envelop, product literature and outer packaging.
One of the most emblematic and classic watch cases of the early 20th century is the Tortue. Designed by Louis Cartier in 1912, the rounded tonneau-shaped case was elegant and sophisticated and named “tortue à pattes” or “turtle on legs” both for its similarity to the animal’s shape and
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symbolism of good fortune and longevity. Cartier has long used the case since its introduction, and in 1998 they introduced their Cartier Privée Paris Collection (CPCP) Tortue Monopoussoir chronograph. The collection sought to bring modern watches to collectors who wanted a vintage look. Available from 1998 until 2008, the collection was based on their legendary designs that have made the brand so famous and sought afer amongst collectors. The frst monopoussoir, or monopusher, chronograph was released by Cartier in 1928 and the modern edition remains close to the original, but with a larger, more contemporary case featuring the manual caliber 045MC, interestingly co-developed by F. P. Journe, Denis Flageollet and Vianney Halter. The case has a classic look with the single button chronograph operated through the crown giving the watch a clean, uncluttered appeal. The present watch is a lovely example in excellent overall condition and complete with its original certifcate and presentation box. This is an opportunity for afcionados of Cartier and early 20th century design to own and wear a modern example of one of the brand’s most iconic models.
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CARTIER “Monopusher Chronograph CPCP”
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10. Wedding
101.
Patek Philippe – A very fne, rare and elegant oversized white gold wristwatch with sweep center seconds and champagne dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1964
Reference No.
570
Movement No.
711’219
Case No.
316’173
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27 SC, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $40,000-80,000 €34,700-69,500 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in white gold in 1964 and its subsequent sale on June 3rd, 1964.
Ofcially introduced in 1932 and still in production today, Patek Philippe’s Calatrava is a true icon – a family of watches considered by many as being amongst the most beautiful time-only watches of all time. All Patek Philippe Calatrava models are descendants of the frst Calatrava, the famed reference 96, which was incidentally the frst model to introduce numbered references in 1932. Its elegant and proportional design, fat bezel, and slightly elongated lugs commemorate the Bauhaus style of form following function, with no extraneous ornamentation or superfuous details. For many, this frst Calatrava is considered the benchmark for all dress watches produced since 1932.
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While the reference 96 was 31mm in diameter, the next iteration of the Calatrava, the reference 570, increased the case dimensions to a dramatic 35.5mm in diameter, all while retaining the same design codes. With the diversity of dial confgurations and metals used for these Calatravas, produced in yellow, white, and rose gold as well as platinum and steel, rarity and condition are what drives the collectability of these larger Calatrava models. The present 570 possesses amongst the rarest of all dial confgurations, with a raised enamel minute track, as well as the sought afer sweeping center seconds. A gorgeous, satinated champagne-colored dial with a vibrant “soleil”pattern complements the sof lustre of the case and contrasts beautifully with the raised enamel printing and white gold indexes. This example is fresh-to-the-market, in a pristine state of preservation that so ofen eludes collectors, particularly in timepieces manufactured in precious metals. The original factory brushed fnish is still crisply intact, with the fat bezel still sharp at the edges. The two hallmarks under the charismatic and thick lugs are well-defned and the lug holes equidistant. The present lot is an opportunity to own a rare version of a benchmark reference of the twentieth century, which is preserved in wonderful condition.
26/10/18 10:04
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 570 Calatrava
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26/10/18 10:04
11. Caribbean Conquering St Barth’s in style
Picture a hybrid of the salubrious ambience of St.-Tropez and the laid-back nonchalance of Caribbean lifestyle, and there you have the irresistible vibe of Saint Barthelemy: an overseas collectivity of France, with an all-pervading Gallic feel to its glitz factor. The island, equally beloved of the glitterati and high-powered captains of industry (especially during the Christmas and New Year period), has high-fashion credentials punctuated by the kind of brand names - Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Hermès, Chopard, Bulgari – you’ll see dotted along the main town Gustavia’s major thoroughfares: but there’s more to nailing this place style wise, whether pursuing the wooden schooners at the West Indies Regatta, waxing culinary at the Saint Barth Gourmet Festival or simply hoping to be people-watched in a beach-side restaurant containing Hollywood royalty and former Beatles or current Stones. So what to wear when surrounded by such glitzy eclecticism? Especially when the perennially couture-clad, the barefoot beach lovers and the jeans-wearing clubbers all mingle together looking equally in situ? Pack several famboyant pairs of Vilebrequins, or a stack of lightweight natural fabrics such as linen and cotton? Shouty, stand-out colours or gentle, earthy hues to contrast with the primary glare of that distinctive red roof scape and the azure beyond? Our two style consultants, here, could not have diverged more wildly.
Lots 102 to 111 The vibrant mish-mash of cultures over the past centuries, coupled with a unique natural splendor, has transformed the Caribbean into a much-coveted vacation destination. Located directly above the Equator, the subtropical climate allows for very little variation in temperature over the course of a year, making the islands of the Caribbean sanctuaries for the chronically vitamin D defcient. Whether you choose to frequent the pink sands of the Bahamas, wander the streets of Old Havana in Cuba, or anchor your yacht in the turquoise waters near St. Barth’s, the associated wristwatch should be adequately colorful and able to withstand a bit of heat and and lots of humidity. Some watches, such as the Rolex GMT-Master have been beautifully transformed by these elements, with its dial turning a deep and uniform shade of tobacco brown due to exposure to sunlight. Other watches push the boundaries of horological innovation and in turn, are perfectly suited to an active tropical lifestyle, like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept cased in Alacrite and titanium.
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Maker xxxxxx Watch xxxxxx
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11. Caribbean
Mr Porter’s look
Lot 103 Rolex. Day-Date reference 18208 with malachite dial, 18K yellow gold, circa 1994
There’s more than a touch of Hunter S. Thompson about this wonderfully eye-hiking ensemble, thanks to an ebullient version of the boxy camp-collar shirts that are these days a staple for Prada – this one is printed with bold foral graphics, and is exclusive to Mr Porter’s retro capsule with the house – and the pink-tinted Berluti shades with which they harmonise so well. Any smart dresser will build around those two statement pieces with caution: hence Gucci’s excellent input here – a pair of wide-leg pleated wool trousers that’d put the most dedicated pacifst into Peaky Blinders mode, and the kind of belt that’ll last one a lifetime from Dries Van Noten (look afer it, and watch that unique patina develop with wear), as well as sandals (or ‘Slides’) from Álvaro – a brand whose rubber stamp means that they’ve been hand-made in a specialist workshop in Florence. Sensibly rooted sartorial derring-do: it’s the future…
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Shirt by Prada Trousers by Gucci Belt by Dries Van Noten Sunglasses by Berluti Shoes by Álvaro
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The Rake’s look
Lot 109 Rolex. GMT-Master reference 1675 with “tropical” dial, stainless steel, circa 1965
Earthy hues dominate a look that’ll equip the wearer for swanky nights out in the Gustavia district. Edward Sexton – a man who, with his late business partner Tommy Nutter, injected rock and roll chic into Savile Row in the Sixties and is still, in his mid-seventies, operating in an atelier in Knightsbridge – provides the basics in the form of these tobacco coloured, ‘Hollywood’ top-pleated linen trousers and a simple-but-stunning beige linen safari shirt. As per many of the other, comparatively louche, or casual looks in this set of 12, Rubinacci’s structurally laissez-faire, but sartorially dashing credo works perfectly in this doublebreasted cotton patch-pocketted jacket. Topping it of with the ne plus ultra of appropriate hats in warmer climes, a Panama from Lock & Co and ebony brown ‘Lorenzo’ suede loafers by Belsire.
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Jacket by Rubinacci Shirt by Edward Sexton Neck tie by Fumagalli 1891 Trousers by Edward Sexton Socks by The London Sock Company Loafers by Baudoin & Lange Sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith Hat by Lock & Co
26/10/18 10:08
11. Caribbean
102.
Omega – A fne, rare, and oversized stainless steel diver’s chronograph wristwatch with date, 24-hour indicator, and unidirectional rotating bezel
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
Circa 1972
Reference No.
176.004
Movement No.
34’243’706
Model Name
Seamaster 120, “Big Blue”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4040, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega mesh bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega quick-release clasp, stamped 1247/237
Dimensions
Case length 52mm diameter, case height 17mm diameter, case width 44mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $4,000-6,000 O €3,500-5,200
Literature A similar reference 176.004 with bracelet is illustrated in John Goldberger’s Omega Sportswatches, pp. 74-75.
When Jacques Cousteau and Émile Gagnan developed the frst open circuit SCUBA tank in the mid-twentieth century, they opened the door for growth within both commercial and recreational diving. Alongside this new technology arose the need for precision timepieces that were not only waterproof, but also maintained integrity at depth and decompression. Many watch brands sought to enter the feld of dive tool watches, and Omega was no exception. With the release of the frst Seamaster reference meant for professional diving in 1957, Omega began a journey towards technical precision and innovation for those willing to brave the depths of the ocean. In looking at the design of the watches Omega was developing in the early 1970s, it is apparent that the Seamaster reference 176.004 “Big Blue” (named for the obvious reasons that it is both large and blue) took architectural cues from several references that were also being introduced in the late 1960s and early 1970s that echoed the futuristic ethos typical of the era such as orange hand of the so-called “PloProf” and the prototype Seamaster 1000 and the oversized tonneau-shaped case of the Flightmaster. It is, however, most similar to the reference 176.002 Speedmaster “Mark III”, frst introduced in 1971. The case is mountainous, summited by a unidirectional rotating bezel, with vertical brushed fnishing throughout. Given the expensive price tag of these watches at the time (reportedly 715 CHF), they were bought by those seriously interested in using them for their intended purpose of diving. Thus, it is difcult to fnd examples of the “Big Blue” in unmolested condition with original parts, making the current lot an incredible fnd for diving watch enthusiasts.
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OMEGA Seamaster 120 “Big Blue”
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11. Caribbean
103.
Rolex – A very rare and highly attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with malachite hardstone dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1994
Reference No.
18208, inside caseback stamped 18200
Movement No.
7’947’873
Case No.
W’935’645
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold, deployant clasp stamped S9
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,400-34,700 Accessories Accompanied by original Rolex punched guarantee, chronometer certifcation book and receipt, leather wallet, product literature, hang tag, inner and outer box, and extra Oyster link.
From its introduction in 1956, the Day-Date has continued to embody the Rolex ethos of luxury and power. Myriad combinations were made possible by the variety of dials and case materials, the array of bezel patterns and the diferent bracelet assortments. Most Day-Dates were produced in 18K yellow gold; however, the present example’s smooth bezel and riveted Oyster bracelet are a sleek and sporty departure from the classic futed bezel and President bracelet confguration – and not at all unwelcome. The true attraction of this Day-Date, aside from its superb original condition, is the vibrant dial made of malachite.
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Malachite was frst known to be mined as early as the Neolithic era, around 3,800 years ago, in an area of limestone headland in Wales, Great Britain. Since antiquity, malachite has been utilized in decorative arts and adornments for its vivid green palette and spectacular banded and swirled patterns. Malachite was even ground and used as paint pigments, most notably by Italian Renaissance painter Pietro Perugino in his Natività located in the Church of Saint Francis in Montefalco, Peruggia. This specifc malachite dial displays beautiful uniform bands, made by slicing and polishing a larger banded mass of malachite. Rolex must have been highly selective in choosing the specifc slice of malachite, further afrming their mastery of applying of such delicate natural materials as watch dials. Typically, the most harmonious and attractive banded specimens of malachite are found in Central African deposits. Small accents such as the Spanish date wheel and gold printing against the superb hardstone dial unite all the other attractive elements of this timepiece: the overall incredible condition, uniformity and vibrancy of the dial, and presence of all the original accessories. Hardly worn and preserved in stunning condition, it is certain to please the demanding connoisseur.
26/10/18 10:09
ROLEX 18208 Day-Date “Malachite”
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11. Caribbean
104.
Patek Philippe – A fne and rare white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phase, certifcate of origin and ftted presentation box, factory double sealed
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2006
Reference No.
5970G-001
Movement No.
3’048’426
Case No.
4’382’769
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant strap
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $80,000-120,000 Σ €69,500-104,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin, product literature, leather wallet, factory box and seal, inner ftted presentation box and outer box.
The reference 5970 inherited the mantle of Patek Philippe’s fagship complication – the perpetual calendar chronograph – upon its introduction in 2004. At the time, it was the latest in a long line of lauded wristwatches to feature this specifc complication, all of which have been beautifully executed by Patek Philippe without a break for almost eight
decades. The production run of each serially-produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch is as follows: reference 5970 (2004 – 2011), reference 3970 (1987 2004). reference 2499 (1949 - 1987), and reference 1518 (1940 - 1951). Each has its own devoted followers, highly coveted and revered by collectors, and the 5970 is no diferent. According to scholarship, the reference 5970 was the frst wristwatch designed and developed by Thierry Stern upon his assumption of the leadership of Patek Philippe. The 5970 was available in all four precious metals, with relatively standardized dial layouts, and was only produced for seven short years, giving it the most limited production run of any Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph. It was also the last to use the modifed Lemania 2310, as the 5270 replaced the 5970 and featured an in-house movement. The case of the 5970 presents a signifcant increase in size, from 36mm in the 3970 to a more modern 40mm, adding to its masculine appeal. Both the white gold and pink gold variants were only produced during the model’s frst three years. The present example in 18K white gold cannot be exceeded in terms of condition. It retains all of its original accessories and is double sealed in its factory box – the closest one can get to traveling back in time to 2006 and purchasing it directly from the salon.
STOCK PHOTO FOR INFORMATION. NOT ACTUAL WATCH.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Maker xxxxxx Ref. 5970G “Double Sealed” Watch xxxxxx
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11. Caribbean
105.
Rolex – A fne and very rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1966
Reference No.
6238
Case No.
1’422’516
Model Name
“Pre-Daytona”
Material
14K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72, 17 jewels, further stamped “ROW”
Bracelet/Strap
14K yellow gold riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 57, max overall length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
14K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 7205 and J5
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $50,000-80,000 €43,400-69,500
The 1950s and 1960s were the golden age of 20th century horology with many models produced that today are considered iconic timepieces by watch collectors. The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona has grown to mythic proportions and is surely one model that would appear on any list of great watches and for good reason. These early tool watches are as contemporary and modern now as they were 60 years ago. They have a strong masculine appeal, and their large diameter cases ft comfortably on the wrist. While the Daytona is the most discussed Rolex chronograph, it comes from a long line of sporty Rolex chronograph
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models extending back to the early 1930s. “Pre-Daytona” chronographs like the reference 6238 are the immediate predecessors of the reference 6239, the frst Daytona chronograph. Rolex’s reference 6238 is recognized both for its rarity, attractiveness, and historical signifcance to the brand’s history as it was the last model to feature a tachymeter scale on the dial, before it was moved to the bezel as seen on all Daytona models made to the present day. The present watch is a superlative example, especially noteworthy for its 14K gold case and “ROW” export mark found on the movement, designating the watch’s export to the United States. The watch is in lovely original condition with thick lugs, a crisp smooth bezel, and completed with its original and rare 14K gold riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet. The silver dial radiates brilliantly with a brushed sunburst fnish and luminous hour markers and hands that have aged to a pleasing light yellowish hue. The reference 6238 is a sporty and classic chronograph wristwatch that marked the end of an era, but also paved the way for a new age. It is a chic and easily wearable timepiece with great value for the enthusiast.
26/10/18 10:10
ROLEX Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”
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11. Caribbean
106.
Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1978
Reference No.
3448
Movement No.
1’119’532
Case No.
332’880
Model Name
“Padellone”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460 Q, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
37mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and buckle signed.
Estimate $80,000-120,000 Σ €69,500-104,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1978 and its subsequent sale on August 18th, 1980. Literature The reference 3448 is illustrated in Patek Philippe Wristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, p. 288.
The groundbreaking reference 3448, launched in 1962, was the world’s frst self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch. It replaced the earlier, manually-wound references 1526 and 2497. Within beats the exquisite caliber 27-460 Q (“Q” for quantième), which built on Patek’s frst automatic caliber 12-600 AT introduced in 1953. Afer almost two decades of 3448 production, it was replaced by the reference 3450 which featured a leap year indicator. A robust, full-rotor automatic movement highly regarded by enthusiasts, the caliber powering Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar watches was replaced by the ultra-thin caliber 240 Q when the 3450 was discontinued and the reference 3940 was introduced in the mid-1980s. Nicknamed the “Padellone” by Italian collectors, the reference is adored for its oversized, 37.5 mm diameter case with clean, angular lines and a symmetrical and balanced dial. The way in which the wide bezel slopes dramatically outwards from the dial, with jutting angular lugs, gives the impression of a watch much larger than its actual case measurements. Later examples, such as the current lot, would feature more uniform and modern printing for the signature and date track. The present lot is fresh-to-the-market and retains its original hallmarks, including two small owl hallmarks on the case back, indicating it was originally destined for the French market. Fitted with Italian day and date calendar wheels at 12 o’clock, it was likely a special order requested for an Italian client living in France. Combining rarity, timeless aesthetics, and highest quality watchmaking, the “Padellone” is one of Patek Philippe’s fnest creations, and this well preserved example will certainly impress anyone who has the chance to strap it on their wrist.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3448 “Padellone”
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11. Caribbean
107.
Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare pink gold wristwatch with 10 day power reserve with certifcate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2000
Reference No.
5100R-001
Movement No.
3’202’539
Case No.
4’098’686
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 28-230 REC 10J PS IRM, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
46mm length x 34mm width
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and strap signed.
Estimate $30,000-50,000 Σ €26,100-43,400 Accessories Accompanied by letter of attestation from Patek Philippe, Certifcate of Origin confrming sale from the Patek Philippe salon in Paris in February of 2001, commemorative plaque, product literature, and leather folder. Additionally accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract of the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 2000 and its subsequent sale on January 10th, 2001.
To celebrate the manufacture’s entry into the third millennium, Patek Philippe released several new references to commemorate the dawn of a new age, including the present reference 5100. Other limited edition releases included the time-only reference 5032 and the Star Caliber 2000, a double-sided pocket watch with 21 total complications.
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Ofen watch brands draw on the past to remake the future, but few do so with quite the fnesse and excellence of Patek Philippe. Brand values commited to precision, quality, and outstanding crafsmanship have gone a long way in making Patek Philippe watches some of the most coveted, and the reference 5100 is a standout example of how a historic model positively infuenced the design of a contemporary release. The reference 2554, of which very few were produced, was in production from 1952 until the late 1960s and is commonly referred to as the “Manta Ray” due to its dramatically fared sides resembling the large pectoral fns of the gentle oceanic creature. The 5100 case design echoes the 2554, upgraded to a larger size with a more architectural case construction. The reference 5100 is a manually wound, time-only piece with a ten-day power reserve. In the year 2000, this was a remarkable achievement, as the typical power reserve for most watches is about 36 to 48 hours. The four beautifully decorated bridges of the movement are visible through the sapphire crystal, which is furthermore chronometer certifed. Afer all the pieces were made – a strictly limited series in yellow gold, pink gold, white gold, and platinum - the tools to make the reference 5100’s case were destroyed, so that the watch can never be exactly recreated - making it a truly a limited edition. Presented with all of its original boxes, papers, and accessories, preserved in nearly fawless condition, this beautiful reference 5100 is a rare, fresh to the market celebration of a new beginning based on timeless design cues of the past.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5100R
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11. Caribbean
108.
Vacheron Constantin – A very rare and exquisite white gold wristwatch with date, unusual lugs and bracelet
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1966
Reference No.
6950, inside case back stamped 6694
Movement No.
406’918
Case No.
587’615
Model Name
Chronomètre Royale
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 12’’-1072, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Vacheron Constantin bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
wing-shaped lugs that are instantly recognizable. The reference 6694, when ftted on a bracelet, is considered a reference 6950.
18K white gold Vacheron Constantin folding clasp
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $15,000-25,000 O €13,000-21,700 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming the production of this timepiece in 1966.
Vacheron Constantin’s Chronomètre Royal is among the frm’s best known and most sought afer model. Produced in wristwatch form beginning in 1953, these models are considered among the brand’s fnest watches of the era. The Chronomètre Royal reference 6694 was introduced in 1962, and housed Vacheron Constantin’s frst automatic caliber with chronometer certifcation – the caliber 1072, featuring a chronometric balance and the rotor mounted on ruby ball bearings. Collectors ofen refer to reference 6694 as “the Batman” due to its wide and dramatic
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The fnish throughout the bracelet and case is extremely fne and a testament to Vacheron’s commitment to crafsmanship and elegance. The brick-style bracelet is taut, showing this piece was hardly ever worn and was treated with the utmost care by previous owners. The fnely cross-hatched pattern on the case and bracelet is a traditional Florentine technique, still used today in haute horologie and haute joaillerie. Typically, it is done by hand with a hard-tipped tool (today, a diamond-tipped hammer is used), repeatedly beaten into the metal to achieve the directional texture visible throughout. A series of parallel lines are engraved bidirectionally, giving the metal a matte, almost three-dimensional appearance. The dial possesses a sofly radiating silver sunburst appearance, with the Maltese Cross inset with a diamond below the 12 o’clock hour marker. This rare and uncommon watch is presented with an extract from Vacheron Constantin’s archives, and ofered in superbly preserved condition that is especially noteworthy afer leaving the manufacture over fve decades ago.
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN Ref. 6950 Chronomètre Royale
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11. Caribbean
109.
Rolex – A very fne and highly attractive stainless steel dual time wristwatch with “tropical” gilt lacquered dial, bracelet, and original guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1965
Reference No.
1675, inside caseback stamped 1675 and II.65
Movement No.
D57’662
Case No.
1’196’803
Model Name
GMT-Master, “Fuchsia Tropical”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels, further stamped “ROW”
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 80, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 1.65
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $25,000-50,000 €21,700-43,400 Accessories Accompanied by original punched guarantee, Rolex calendar for 1965 and 1966, Rolex GMT-Master product literature, Bucherer product literature, original hang tag with serial number, inner and outer presentation box.
The Rolex GMT-Master’s fascinating history began with Pan American Airways’ collaboration with Rolex to develop a watch that would allow their pilots to simultaneously keep track of time in two time zones. Reference 1675 was introduced in 1960 as the successor to the reference 6542 – the frst GMT-Master launched in 1954. The reference 1675 introduced crown guards and a bezel with a metallic insert that was more robust than the 6542’s bakelite bezel, notorious for its fragility even today among the collecting community.
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The present example displays many of the desirable traits of an early iteration of the reference 1675 GMT-Master: a small arrow tipped 24-hour hand, glossy lacquer dial, and gilt printing. A subtle, yet noteworthy detail is the “ROW” stamp found on the automatic 1570 movement – an import code indicating the watch was imported to the American market. Its case has never seen a polishing wheel, retaining all of its original factory fnished surfaces, crisp edges, and bevels as the day it lef the factory more than 5 decades ago. All these factors would lead the present example to be a remarkable fnd and a treasure for any vintage Rolex sports watch collector. But those elements pale in comparison to the attractive qualities taken on by this specifc wristwatch in the past ffy-three years. The metallic insert has remained extremely vibrant, but has changed color from red to a vivid and consistent fuchsia highly prized by collectors, while the original blue side has become lighter and extremely attractive – in fact, it closely resembles Pantone’s “Refex Blue”, one of the most popular colors designated by Pantone. The impressiveness of the colors on the bezel is only exceeded by the incredible and consistent milk chocolate brown color developed by the dial, still maintaining its original glossy lacquered surface but lightening from its original black to a deep bronze. Thick luminous hour plots that have aged to a pleasing light beige match the pale gold gilt printing still visible on the dial. Accompanied by a complete array of Rolex documentation including its original punched guarantee, the magnetic appeal of the present reference 1675 is sure to turn the heads of even the most casual of collectors.
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ROLEX Ref. 1675 GMT-Master “Tropical Fuchsia”
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11. Caribbean
110.
Audemars Piguet – A rare and very fne limited edition oversized alacrite 602 and titanium semi-skeletonized tourbillon wristwatch with dynamographe, power reserve, and function selector
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2005
Reference No.
25980AI.OO.D003SU.01
Movement No.
543’747
Case No.
F31129
Model Name
Royal Oak Concept Watch (CW1)
Material
Alacrite and titanium
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2896, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Kevlar Audemars Piguet strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $90,000-120,000 Σ O €78,200-104,000
Similar to concept cars, concept wristwatches are ofen models built not only to demonstrate a brand’s technical prowess and master crafsmanship, but also to bring new technical advances to a product line. A vision that frst appears in research and development may in a few years be a spring board for a viable concept that has long-term commercial success. Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept (CW1) was released in 2002 for the 30th anniversary of the legendary Royal Oak model – an exploration on what the brand believed the Royal Oak could look like in the future. Originally launched in 1972, the Royal Oak was the world’s frst stainless steel luxury sport watch with fully integrated bracelet. Designed by famed Gerald Genta, the model became an icon and fan favorite for its rugged, masculine, and sporty aesthestic. Over the years, Audemars Piguet expanded the series with the release of the Royal Oak Ofshore in 1993.
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The Royal Oak Concept Watch’s case is made from Alacrite 602, an innovative and resilient alloy consisting of cobalt, chrome, tungsten and traces of carbon, silicon and iron, with purposes in the aerospace industry and medical applications. To date, it appears that Alacrite was only used for this model, never again used for any other watch from any other brand. While the foundations of the Royal Oak are present, the case’s angular and curved construction, along with its movement’s aesthetic, were revolutionary, and ushered in Audemars Piguet’s vision for 21st century watchmaking. The movement, developed by AP’s complication specialists at the time, Renaud et Papi, is constructed with titanium plates and bridges and features a tourbillon seen through the semi-skeletonized dial. On the dial side, three indicators standout for their interesting design and application. At the 12 o’clock position, Audemars Piguet added a “dynamographe” to represent the quality of torque on the mainspring, and to its right is a unique linear power reserve spanning the length of the dial from 1 o’clock to 5 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, a function selection indicator showing the current function of the crown: winding (R-remontoir), neutral (N-neutre) and setting (H-heures). Through the screw down push button below the crown found on the case at 4 o’clock, the watch is set to the desired function in order to wind or set the time. The Royal Oak Concept is a remarkable statement piece – a unique and innovative timepiece that showcased both the boldness and technical expertise of Audemars Piguet at the turn of this last century. Completed with a Kevlar strap, the watch has great presence on the wrist, and its case dazzles with contrasting brushed, polished, and bead blasted surfaces. Made in a limited edition of just 150 examples, the present lot is an excellent opportunity for passionate collectors to own a rare and unusual “concept” watch showcasing the horological mastery of a storied Swiss watchmaker.
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AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Concept
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11. Caribbean
111.
Patek Philippe – A rare and attractive platinum and diamond-set rectangularshaped wristwatch
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1953
Reference No.
2461
Movement No.
975’677
Case No.
674’397
Material
Platinum and diamond
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9’90, 18 jewels, further stamped
Bracelet/Strap
Patek Philippe alligator strap
“HOX” Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $15,000-25,000 Σ €13,000-21,700 Accessories With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with diamond hour markers in 1953 and its subsequent sale on November 20th, 1956.
The mid-20th century was the golden age of classic modern horology. Many iconic timepieces were developed during the 1940s, 50s and 60s, and Patek Philippe’s production included time only wristwatches like the Calatrava reference 96 or Grand Calatrava reference 570 [see lot 101], to complicated timepieces such as the 1518 and its successor the 2499. Today, these gems are highly sought afer by connoisseurs for their design, innovation and technical excellence. The reference 2461 is an exemplary model from this period. The time only watch was produced in yellow, pink and white gold, and, rarely, in platinum. Produced between 1950 and 1964, it was an updated version of the reference 425, which measured 35mm in length, compared to the more substantial reference 2461 measuring 42mm in length. The case, manufactured by Markowski for Patek Philippe, who is also known for his later work on the Gilbert Albert designed cases, has smooth clean lines, giving the watch a strong architectural feel. There is a lovely curve to the watch when seen in profle and fts comfortably on the wrist. The present watch is in lovely original condition, retaining its strong lines. The dial has an eye-catching look with the diamond-set dial, known as Heures Brillantes (HB). It is a watch that is both classic and elegant and makes a fne statement for an evening out, whether to the opera or at an outdoor restaurant in the Caribbean.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2461
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12. Art Basel Miami Mastering the art of measured quirkiness
There are certain occasions in a man’s life when he wishes to eschew, if only briefy, certain regular features of his ordinary apparel: and lapelled jackets is just the start of it. Art Basel Miami – the annual art-fair-turned-bacchanalian mega-soiree, the 17th edition of which will hit Miami Beach this December – is most emphatically one of those occasions. A mixture of concerts, VIP events and star-studded evening bashes, the event, which now attracts up to 80,000 revelers, has become, unofcially, as much a fashion showcase as it is an art fair: expect vivid prints, festive colours, shoulders protruding from t-shirts and statement jewellery aplenty, especially when the hottest ticket in town, for those who love online exposure, is the Instagram pages of various random “Infuencers”. Of course, there’s nothing worse than self-conscious eccentricity – and in an environment in which sequinned lederhosen would barely draw a second look, when it comes to quirkiness, less is most certainly more.. As with another major shindig whose name contains the word ‘Basel’ – this one actually held in that Swiss city – comfort is an imperative: this event is as wearing on the sole as it is warming to the soul - while the warm-weather appropriate gear is the only sane option (average temperatures in December are still in the early 20s). Shorts are a staple for down time, but this is no beach-bonanza, despite the coastal setting: so pack some gentle, measured idiosyncrasy alongside your best Slim Aarons-photo regalia.
Lots 112 to 120 As with one’s attire, Art Basel is the perfect opportunity to deviate from the norm with one’s wristwear, choosing something obscure, or even audacious, for this celebration of the arts. With fashes of colors hung on walls or draped on the bodies of attendees, droplets of condensation on mint-garnished cocktail glasses, it’s where celebrities, artists, fashionistas, and socialites converge for one weekend in December. For an event that is just as much about the party as it is about the art, a little irreverence on the wrist does not go amiss. Bold, unusual case shapes, and unconventional complications dominate this selection: an oversized cushion-form watch from the 1970s with stunning blue dial and integrated bracelet from Patek Philippe, or an über rare Opus V masterpiece from Harry Winston in platinum with a three-dimensional satellite hour display, that, with its retrograding minute hand, marks each passing hour as uniquely as the art pieces on display.
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Maker xxxxxx Watch xxxxxx
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12. Art Basel Miami
Mr Porter’s look
Lot 115 Patek Philippe. ‘Beta 21’ reference 3587/1, 18K white gold, circa 1971
This ensemble testifes to the fact that there’s nothing intrinsically formal – and certainly nothing ‘stufy’ – about wearing a suit. The Berluti two-piece shown here is made in Italy – where else? - from smooth herringbone wool, its sofly tailored, minimal internal structure and double vent working wonders for its silhouette. The inherent informality on display is the result of a twopronged attack from Brunello Cucinelli (a plain white tee - not for the frst time, the reader is advised to stock up) and the kind of trainers-for-grown-ups every man should have at last a couple of pairs of, along with another great layering piece – a cotton-piqué shirt with cutaway collar from Loro Piana. Eye-catching, monochrome elegance is made a fait accomplis by Bottega Veneta’s ‘Intrecciato’ briefcase and Cutler & Gross’s glasses, which are designed to slim down and defne rounder-shaped faces: insert your own emaciated artist reference here…
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Jacket by Berluti Shirt by Loro Piana T-shirt by Berluti Trousers by Berluti Sneakers by Brunello Cucinelli Wallet by Bottega Veneta
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The Rake’s look
Lot 112 Vacheron Constantin. Mercator reference 43050 with polychrome cloisonné enamel dial, 18K yellow gold, circa 1996
It’s astounding, in 2018, to think that riveted denim trousers were invented to weather the toils of the gold rush and the Wild West: especially when you behold a pair of boardroom-friendly jeans such as these from East London denim specialist Blackhorse Lane. Some smart jeans are a must-own for the modern gent, and you could do far worse than these. Juxtaposing such a pair with the slim-ft, ‘Valstarino’ coat seen here (a style originally conceived in 1935 as a sporty reimagination of the traditional A-1 fight jacket) in brown deerskin from Valstar is a casual-wear masterstroke, and the same inconspicuously immaculate attitude continues with Anderson & Sheppard's collarless puppytooth cotton and cashmere shirt. A stylish foundation is provided by the white trainers from Grenson, before the look is then hiked into quirkier territory by one of Anderson & Sheppard’s more outré haberdashery oferings – their plum and cream ‘Ikat’ silk scarf – and David Kind’s ‘Pine Roman’ sunglasses.
Jacket by Valstar Shirt by Santillo 1970 Jeans by The Worker’s Club Scarf by Anderson & Sheppard Trainers by Grenson Sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith
Artful, leffeld elegance nailed.
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12. Art Basel Miami
112.
Vacheron Constantin – A very fne and rare yellow gold automatic wristwatch with retrograde hours and minutes, polychrome cloisonné enamel “EuropaAsia” dial, with guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1996
Reference No.
43050
Movement No.
798’390
Case No.
673’846
Model Name
Mercator
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1120/2, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Vacheron Constantin double deployant clasp
Dimensions Signed
36mm Diameter Case, dial, movement, strap and clasp signed by maker, dial further signed by enameller.
Estimate $20,000-30,000 Σ €17,400-26,100 Accessories Accompanied by undated Vacheron Constantin International Warranty, Certifcate of Authenticity, ftted wooden presentation box, hang tag, loupe, product literature and outer packaging.
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Vacheron Constantin’s Mercator wristwatch pays homage to Gerard Mercator, the 16th century GermanFlemish cartographer, geographer and cosmographer. He was born in Antwerp in 1592 and became the most well-known cartographer of his time. He developed the Mercator projection, a method still used today, which rendered the confguration of the terrestrial globe on to a fat surface and became the standard for nautical purposes. He created a new world map in 1569 using this method and it was a marvel of contemporary geography. Mercator was one of few scholars of the time that did not travel widely, but rather most of his thought and skill were gained from his personal library of over 1000 maps and books, as well as correspondences with other scholars, statesmen, travelers and seamen. Vacheron Constantin’s uniquely designed Mercator wristwatch was released in 1994 for the 400th anniversary of the scholar’s death and pays homage to him through its unique design. The retrograde hour and minute indicators resemble the legs of a handheld compass, while the stunning cloisonné enamel dial of “Europa-Asia” is rendered based on his map and confguration. The dial numbered 40 is the work of master enamellers Lucie and Jean Genbrugge, and it is believed that they produced 50 examples. In exceptionally well-preserved, original condition, this example is ofered complete with original warranty and authenticity certifcate, as well as presentation box. The Mercator is a uniquely designed watch and ofers collectors something beyond the ordinary.
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN Ref. 43050 Mercator “Europe-Asia”
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12. Art Basel Miami
113.
Rolex – A very fne, rare, and pristine chronograph wristwatch with “tropical” sub-registers, original guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1994
Reference No.
16520
Case No.
W’366’038
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 503B, max length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant clasp stamped 78590
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $30,000-50,000 €26,100-43,400 Accessories Accompanied by the original Rolex chronometer certifcate and guarantee indicating this watch was purchased on March 9th, 1998 in Memphis, Tennessee, along with an appraisal from the vendor also dated March 9th, 1998. It is further accompanied by the original product literature, hang tags, inner and outer boxes. Literature For another example of a reference 16520 Daytona with tropical registers, please see The Ultimate Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, pp. 556-559.
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Rolex thrilled the public at the 1988 Basel Fair by introducing the frst self-winding chronograph model in its history. The newly launched reference 16520 was powered by a derivative of Zenith’s El Primero caliber, though substantially modifed by Rolex. It was the frst Daytona to be equipped with a sapphire crystal and featured a new, larger case incorporating crown guards for the frst time and measuring 39mm. The launch of the 16520 was an immediate success, resulting in unprecedented demand that would require clients to have to wait as long as seven years to purchase one. This was quite in contrast to the initial lukewarm response of the manuallywound Daytona, frst introduced in 1963. As is the case with many other Rolex models, and part of what makes collecting vintage Rolex so exciting, there are subtle variations to the reference 16520 that can signifcantly increase its collectability. The present example possesses one of the most desirable traits, a pleasing aging to the sub-dials, nicknamed “tropical”, seen only within a certain range of serial numbers. It is believed to be the result of a production defect, with the paint not properly resisting the efects of the UV rays in sunlight and exposure to oxygen, therefore changing color. This desirable defect is not present or possible in all reference 16520s, and are typically only found in black dial, stainless steel examples from between 1993 and 1996. An exceptional example for the connoisseur, it remains in truly “new old stock” condition, having never been worn and still retaining the original stickers on the case and bracelet as delivered by the factory. Furthermore, the present watch is fresh-to-themarket, consigned by the original owner.
26/10/18 10:15
ROLEX Ref. 16520 “Tropical Full Set”
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12. Art Basel Miami
114. Patek Philippe â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A very rare and exceptional pink gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with cathedral gongs, moon phase, 24hour and leap year indications, with certifcate of origin, additional caseback, and presentation box
Big, bold, and an aesthetic delight, the reference 5074 is one of the most important grand complication timepieces made by Patek Philippe, and a watch sure to attract all enthusiasts. The large 42mm diameter case with its wide, stepped bezel is reminiscent of the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s modern chronograph timepiece, the reference 5070. It has a masculine aesthetic that is both contemporary and sporty, and its oversized diameter is purely functional as it permits the use of cathedral gongs for the minute repeating complication. Furthermore incorporating a perpetual calendar with moon phase, the cathedral gongs were created from a special alloy, and each wrap around the movement one and three-quarter times. The resulting sound reverberates for an extended period of time, much like the sound of bells being struck inside a cathedral.
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12. Art Basel Miami
114.
Patek Philippe – A very rare and exceptional pink gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with cathedral gongs, moon phase, 24-hour and leap year indications, with certifcate of origin, additional caseback, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2012
Reference No.
5074R
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. R27 Q, 39 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $250,000-500,000 Σ €217,000-434,000 Accessories With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated March 14, 2012 signed by the Patek Philippe Salon, Geneva, 18K pink gold solid caseback, 18K pink gold setting pin, hang tag, ftted wooden presentation box, leather portfolio with glossy photograph, product literature, and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe released the reference 5074 in yellow gold in 2001, replacing it with the pink gold model in 2005, and the platinum edition was introduced in 2009. It is a 21st century take on the grand watches of the mid-20th century golden age of horology. The watch is a superb blend of vintage and modern, with a large, modern case design ftted with a classically styled dial inspired by the brand’s iconic, historic perpetual calendars. The charismatic case, housing the automatic caliber R 27 Q, also features stylish nods to the past with its downturned futed lugs that resemble those of the reference 2499. In near new condition and fresh to the market from the original owner, this reference 5074 is a collector’s dream. Ofered complete with its original certifcate, literature, and presentation box, the present watch is an exceptional example that delivers a breathtaking acoustic experience.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5074R
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12. Art Basel Miami
115.
Patek Philippe – A very rare, fne, and oversized white gold cushion-shaped electronic wristwatch with center seconds, date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1971
Reference No.
3587/1
Movement No.
5’834
Case No.
2’699’624
Model Name
Beta-21
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Electroquartz, cal. CEH Beta-21, 13 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Patek Philippe integrated mesh bracelet, max overall length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe clasp
Dimensions
43mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate $25,000-35,000 €21,700-30,400 Accessories With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with white gold bracelet in 1971 and its subsequent sale on July 30th, 1971.
The quartz crisis of the late 1960s and early 1970s brought profound change to the Swiss watchmaking industry as brands were forced to compete against low cost, batterypowered watches mass produced by Japanese brands. With their greater accuracy driven by a quartz oscillator, they had a serious negative impact on the entire Swiss watchmaking industry. It’s well-known that Swiss brands worked to reinvent their oferings and marketing eforts, with Patek Philippe for example introducing the Nautilus model in 1976 as a stainless steel luxury sports watch
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to attract new watch enthusiasts seeking high quality timepieces with a more casual, relaxed appeal. However in the formative years of quartz technology, Patek Philippe along with other brands including Rolex, Omega and Piaget, began to research quartz movements when they joined together to form the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH) in 1962. Seeking to develop alternatives to mechanical movements with greater accuracy, the CEH frst released the Beta-1 movement in 1966, with the ground breaking Beta-21 movement following in 1969, which delivered unprecedented accuracy of just fve seconds deviation per month. The cooperating brands agreed to produce 6000 Beta-21 movements that would be shared amongst the group. Patek Philippe’s reference 3587/1 was introduced in 1969 at Basel as their frst quartz wristwatch. It was the largest diameter, serially-produced wristwatch ever made by Patek Philippe at the time, measuring an impressive 43mm in diameter. The watch is the synthesis of 1970s modernity with an oversized cushion-shaped case and screw-down case back that is opulent and glamorous. The present example with integrated bracelet, weighing almost 200g, is in excellent overall condition with a shimmering blue dial and luminous hour markers and hands that have all aged nicely over time. The 3587/1 is a watch that has a unique place in history, introduced at a time of great change in the world, from politics to fashion, setting out to counter threats to the world of haute horlogerie. With scholarship suggesting only 18 examples of the reference having been produced, it’s an exciting watch for the collector of uncommon timepieces.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3587/1 Beta-21
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12. Art Basel Miami
116.
Patek Philippe – A rare and very fne yellow gold rectangular-shaped wristwatch with fancy scrolled lugs
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1951
Reference No.
2471
Movement No.
741’152
Case No.
666’990
Model Name
“Ricciolino”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9”90, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and, movement signed.
Estimate $20,000-30,000 O €17,400-26,100 Accessories With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1951 and its subsequent sale on August 8th, 1952. Literature For another example of the reference 2471 see Patek Philippe Museum, Patek Philippe Watches, Volume II, p. 219.
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The 1930s, 40s, and 50s were a productive artistic period for Patek Philippe with rectangular and square-shaped timepieces being de rigueur, and the brand released numerous creative gentlemen’s watches. Their reference 2471 is a sensational example of the innovative case designs produced by the frm during the 20th century. The large rectangular-shaped case is enhanced with fared, triple scroll lugs at the ends, which are dramatic and distinctive, nicknamed the “Ricciolino” or “little ram’s head” by collectors. The case is by Markowski, who was one of the fnest case makers in Geneva and known for his expertise with unusual case designs, including other references like the “Eifel Tower”, reference 2441 and “Banana”, reference 2442. Released in 1950 and produced for only a short three year period, the reference is one of the rarest and largest rectangular wristwatches produced by Patek Philippe at the time. Produced in both yellow and pink gold, this example is well-preserved and is only the 8th known yellow gold example to be ofered at auction. Nearly seven decades since its production, this watch feels and looks impressive on the wrist with a bold and artistic appeal that will draw passionate watch collectors to it. The watch has the exuberance of post-World War II society and it is a watch that hits the mark for fantastic design.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2471 “Ricciolino”
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12. Art Basel Miami
117.
Patek Philippe – An impressive and very rare cushion-shaped yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, Breguet numerals, certifcate of origin, presentation box, hang tag, and additional solid caseback
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1994
Reference No.
5020
Movement No.
3’045’028
Case No.
2’956’098
Model Name
“TV Screen”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27-20 Q W, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
36mm height x 37mm width
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $120,000-180,000 Σ O €104,000-156,000 Accessories Accompanied by Certifcate of Origin confrming sale at the Patek Philippe salon in Geneva on November 16th, 1994, service paperwork from 2010, additional caseback, hangtag, setting pin, ftted box and product literature. Additionally accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archive confrming date of manufacture in 1994 and sale on November 16th, 1994. Literature The reference 5020 is illustrated in Patek Philippe Wristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, p. 309.
Launched in 1994 and in production for only approximately 8 years, Patek Philippe’s reference 5020, also known as the “TV Screen” due to its unusual cushion shape was an alternative to the reference 3970 featuring the identical complications: perpetual calendar with leap year, 24 hour indicator and chronograph.
The reference 5020’s avant garde design and tasteful proportions sets it apart from other perpetual calendar chronographs from Patek Philippe. However, its unusual case shape elicited lukewarm reactions from clients, leading to very low production numbers. It is believed that about 200 examples of reference 5020 were ever made, either in yellow, pink, or white gold as well as in platinum. The cushion-form, so-called “TV-shaped” case is much more reminiscent of the oversized tonneau cases of the 1970s, such as the famous Beta 21. Patek Philippe also incorporated other classic features such as Breguet numerals and hands, giving the reference 5020 a distinctively elegant look. It took about 10 years for the market to regain appreciation for the model: the purity of its mirror-fnished retro aesthetics, generous size, and overall incredible rarity comparable to the that of vintage references. With time, these factors rendered the reference one of the most collectible and sought-afer perpetual calendar chronograph models made by the manufacture. Less than fve examples cased in yellow gold, such as the present example, have appeared on the public market, according to scholarship. Having been originally purchased at the Patek Philippe Boutique in Geneva, the present example was especially well cared for, having received a factory service in 2010 and remaining sealed since then. Appearing for the frst time at auction, it is furthermore completed by all its original accessories including hangtag, certifcate of origin, and additional caseback, making it an exciting opportunity for the discerning collector.
STOCK PHOTO FOR INFORMATION. NOT ACTUAL WATCH.
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PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5020J “TV-Screen”
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12. Art Basel Miami
118.
Hermès – A very rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “tropical” dial, unusual lugs and tachymeter and telemeter scales
Manufacturer
Hermès
Year
1935
Case No.
267’907
Model Name
“Tropical Bamboo Hat”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 14”, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Dial signed
Estimate $25,000-35,000 €21,700-30,400
Hermès is an international brand revered for its quality crafsmanship and attention to detail, a commitment they have maintained since their founding in 1837, when Thierry Hermès opened his frst harness shop in Paris serving
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European nobles. Over the decades, the frm branched out adding accessories and clothing, and today it is a multi-billion dollar corporation focusing on highest quality leather goods, fashion, and luxury products. The present chronograph wristwatch from the 1930s is an exemplary example of the frm’s long-term commitment to selling only the highest quality items. This Swiss-made watch beautifully defnes the Art Deco period with a synthesis of styles from Futurism to Cubism. The innovative design has a breath of modernity not typically seen in gentlemen’s wristwatches. The timepiece is highlighted by the prominent cone-shaped hinged lugs, while the black dial has gracefully aged with a warm brown hue, which is complimented by the gold colored markers, tachymeter and telemeter scales. The watch has been hardly worn and well-maintained over the years, preserved in excellent condition, and a wonderful example of a time period when design played an important role in the everyday. The aesthetic is certainly atypical, with an exuberent expressiviness that make it an exciting addition to any collection.
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HERMÈS “Tropical Bamboo Hat”
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12. Art Basel Miami
119.
Harry Winston – A rare and unusual limited edition platinum wristwatch with three dimensional satellite hour display, retrograde minutes, fve day power reserve and day and night indication, and fve year service indicator
Manufacturer
Harry Winston
Year
Circa 2005
Case No.
017682, No. 25 of 45
Model Name
Opus V
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. ARCAP P-40 Opus V
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Harry Winston buckle
Dimensions
50mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $60,000-100,000 €52,100-86,900 Accessories With Harry Winston Opus V presentation box, original paperwork and guarantee, product literature, and outer packaging
Harry Winston’s Opus collection was a revolutionary collaborative efort between the famed brand and renowned independent watchmakers to produce a series of limited edition, unique, and unusual complicated timepieces. The efort begin in 1998 when Harry Winston hired Max Büsser as director of rare timepieces. He sought to make cutting edge watches with some of the brightest talents in the horological world that pushed the
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limits of both the design and the mechanics of watches. Launched in 2001, the frst in the series was the Opus 1 Chonomètre à Tourbillon in conjunction with F. P. Journe, who was already well known for his work on creating the world’s frst wristwatch to incorporate resonance to synchronize two escapements. The series has continued over the last 17 years with the most current model available, the Opus 14, made with Franck Orny and Johnny Girardin. The Opus V was an impressive collaborative efort developed with Felix Baumgartner, co-founder of the independent brand, Urwerk. Its unusual yet mesmerizing three dimensional time display features three rotating and revolving cubes that indicate the hours, along with a retrograding minute scale. The watch has the DNA of Urwerk with a bold and dynamic look and feel. The series was extremely limited, produced in just 45 examples in pink gold and 45 in platinum, like the present watch, along with seven pieces in platinum set with round diamonds, and three examples in platinum set with baguette diamonds, for a total of 100 timepieces. The present example, Number 25, is preserved in outstanding condition, having only been worn a handful of times. The Opus V over the years has become amongst the most sought afer watches in the Opus series, and this watch provides the opportunity for collectors of independent watchmakers a rare chance to own one.
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HARRY WINSTON Opus V
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12. Art Basel Miami
120.
Rolex – An important, very rare, and well-preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne dial displaying small “Oyster” designation and “foating scripts”, accompanied by original boxes and guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
6263, inside caseback stamped 6238
Case No.
2’330’397
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona, “Oyster-Split”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold, stamped “DA” indicating manufacture under Rolex license in Venezuela, max length 210mm
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet signed.
Estimate $80,000-120,000 €69,500-104,000 Accessories Accompanied by original Rolex guarantee papers dated December 15th, 1975 by Joyería Roca Hermanos (now Joyeria Roca S.A.) in Caracas, Venezuela, service papers from Rolex USA dated December 7th, 1981, product literature, wallet, inner and outer box.
6263s and 6265s produced per year, less than 50 examples of reference 6262, and around approximately 100 precious metal 6239s and 6241s probably produced that year, it is likely that these yellow gold cases were produced in one single batch - of which the present lot is the earliest. As demand for the Daytona has steadily risen over the past few decades, and scholarship has increased by leaps and bounds, these small details are sure to excite dedicated and discerning collectors. Well-balanced, with a seamless melding of luxury and sport, the contrasting gold and black design elements found on the present watch are enhanced by a gold Jubilee bracelet produced under license in Venezuela with a special construction. Retailed by Joyería Roca Hermanos in Venezuela, the watch further impresses with its originality and completeness as it remains ftted with its original Mark 1 pushers and is accompanied with its original guarantee, product literature, and boxes.
Literature A very similar example is illustrated in Pucci Papaleo Editions’ Ultimate Rolex Daytona, pp. 368-371.
Fresh-to-the-market, this very early 18K yellow gold reference 6263 furthers our understanding of precious metal Rolex Daytonas as we know them, and displays some fascinating details. The reference 6263 with its screw-down pushers, was introduced alongside its metal bezel companion, the 6265, in approximately 1969, replacing the short-lived reference 6240. Though mostly cased in stainless steel, limited numbers were made in gold, with the production of these precious metal cases estimated to be around 100 per year for both references. Rolex decided to obtain chronometer certifcation for all gold Daytona models beginning in the early 1970s, and began printing ‘Superlative Chronometer Ofcially Certifed’ on the dials, while some early examples retained the previously used “3 liner” variation. One of the rarest variants is the present example, with the dial displaying Superlative Chronometer Ofcially Certifed foating beneath “Rolex Oyster” at 12 o’clock, giving way to its name “Oyster-Split”. An exciting fnd, this particular watch is the earliest known yellow gold 6263 with the SCOC indication on the dial. Research shows that less than ten yellow gold Daytonas (a combination of 6239s, 6262s, 6263s, and 6265s) have appeared publicly or in literature within the very specifc serial number range that the present example belongs to – all around the 2.33 million sequence. With approximately 100
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ROLEX Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona “Oyster Split”
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Index
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Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
16
AUDEMARS PIGUET
260301O.OO.D001IN.01
Royal Oak Ofshore “Juan Pablo Montoya”
68
AUDEMARS PIGUET
25854.TI.00.1150TI
Royal Oak Ofshore
110
AUDEMARS PIGUET
25980AI.OO.D003SU.01
Royal Oak Concept
35
AUDEMARS PIGUET
26210OI.OO.A109CR.01
Royal Oak Ofshore “LeBron James”
36
BLANCPAIN
57
BREGUET
3470
Equation of Time
93
BREGUET
3355
Tourbillon Squelette
11
BREITLING
765 CP
Co-Pilot “Raquel Welch”
23
BREITLING
806
Navitimer
45
BULOVA
60
CARTIER
1734
Tank Americaine
100
CARTIER
W152851
“Monopusher Chronograph CPCP”
1
F.P. JOURNE
Chronomètre Souverain “Black Label”
42
F.P. JOURNE
Chronomètre à Résonance
119
HARRY WINSTON
Opus V
118
HERMÈS
15
HEUER
2446H
Autavia “Jochen Rindt”
31
HEUER
2447
Mareographe
85
HEUER
1133B
Monaco “Transitional”
4
IWC
377025
Grand Complication
63
IWC
325
Portugieser
71
IWC
3705
Der Fliegerchronograph
29
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
E859
Memovox Polaris
55
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
149.6.07.S
Gyrotourbillon
43
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
E857
Deep Sea Alarm
90
MOVADO
95 704 568
Sub-Sea
2
OMEGA
102
OMEGA
176.004
Seamaster 120 “Big Blue”
75
OMEGA
145.012-67 SP
Speedmaster “Ultraman”
82
OMEGA
2913-3
Seamaster 300
48
OMEGA
2914-1
Railmaster
26
OMEGA
2915-2
Speedmaster “Broad Arrow”
38
OMEGA
2998-2
Speedmaster
98
OMEGA
CK 2077
62
OMEGA
OT 2398
“Floral Cloisonné”
20
OMEGA
ST 165.024
Seamaster 300 “Military” “British Royal Army”
51
PATEK PHILIPPE
96
Calatrava “Breguet Numerals”
8
PATEK PHILIPPE
130
24
PATEK PHILIPPE
565
101
PATEK PHILIPPE
570
Calatrava
14
PATEK PHILIPPE
1463
“Tasti Tondi”
95
PATEK PHILIPPE
1463
“Tasti Tondi”
18
PATEK PHILIPPE
1579
Fify Fathoms
General Dwight D. Eisenhower
“Tropical Bamboo Hat”
105.003-65
59
PATEK PHILIPPE
1589
111
PATEK PHILIPPE
2461
116
PATEK PHILIPPE
2471
80
PATEK PHILIPPE
2497
Speedmaster “Ed White”
“Ricciolino”
64
PATEK PHILIPPE
2526
79
PATEK PHILIPPE
2597
50
PATEK PHILIPPE
3445
106
PATEK PHILIPPE
3448
5
PATEK PHILIPPE
5070P
115
PATEK PHILIPPE
3587/1
Beta-21
86
PATEK PHILIPPE
3700/1
Nautilus “Jumbo”
73
PATEK PHILIPPE
3710A
Historiques Cornes de Vaches
27
PATEK PHILIPPE
3712A
Nautilus
99
PATEK PHILIPPE
5004P
7
PATEK PHILIPPE
5016R
117
PATEK PHILIPPE
5020J
“TV-Screen”
91
PATEK PHILIPPE
5059G
5059G
“Travel Time” “Padellone”
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Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
22
PATEK PHILIPPE
5065A
Aquanaut
65
PATEK PHILIPPE
5070G
88
PATEK PHILIPPE
5070J
114
PATEK PHILIPPE
5074R
58
PATEK PHILIPPE
5078P
107
PATEK PHILIPPE
5100R
44
PATEK PHILIPPE
5131G
37
PATEK PHILIPPE
5140P
69
PATEK PHILIPPE
5160J
54
PATEK PHILIPPE
5180G
Squelette
19
PATEK PHILIPPE
5396G
5396G “Tifany & Co.”
96
PATEK PHILIPPE
5500R
“Pagoda”
104
PATEK PHILIPPE
5970G
39
PATEK PHILIPPE
5970R
47
PATEK PHILIPPE
9
RICHARD MILLE
RM002-V2
49
ROLEX
1019
Milgauss
81
ROLEX
1019
Milgauss
78
ROLEX
1655
Explorer II “Ricciardi”
76
ROLEX
1665
Sea-Dweller “Patent Pending Double Red”
41
ROLEX
1675
GMT-Master
94
ROLEX
1675
GMT-Master “No Crown Guard”
109
ROLEX
1675
GMT-Master “Tropical Fuchsia”
12
ROLEX
1680
“Red” Submariner
61
ROLEX
1803
Day-Date “Green Stella”
40
ROLEX
3525
Oyster Chronograph
97
ROLEX
3668
“Monoblocco”
56
ROLEX
4768
“Dato-Compax”
66
ROLEX
5512
Submariner “4-Liner”
83
ROLEX
5512
Submariner
28
ROLEX
5513
Submariner “MilSub”
84
ROLEX
6236
Oyster Chronograph “Jean-Claude Killy”
17
ROLEX
6238
“Pre-Daytona”
105
ROLEX
6238
“Pre-Daytona”
13
ROLEX
6239
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
67
ROLEX
6239
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
6
ROLEX
6263
Cosmograph Daytona
33
ROLEX
6265
Cosmograph Daytona “Sigma Dial”
3
ROLEX
6263
Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
120
ROLEX
6263
Cosmograph Daytona “Oyster Split”
32
ROLEX
6264
Cosmograph Daytona
89
ROLEX
6264
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
25
ROLEX
6265
Cosmograph Daytona “Tropical”
77
ROLEX
6538
Submariner “Four-Liner Big Crown”
10
ROLEX
6542
GMT-Master
30
ROLEX
6542
GMT-Master “Pussy Galore”
74
ROLEX
8171
“Padellone”
52
ROLEX
16018
Datejust “Chevrolet”
46
ROLEX
16520
Cosmograph Daytona “Floating Cosmograph”
92
ROLEX
16520
Cosmograph Daytona “New Old Stock”
113
ROLEX
16520
Cosmograph Daytona “Tropical Full Set”
21
ROLEX
16550
Explorer II “Cream Dial”
53
ROLEX
18026
Day-Date “Dégradé Blue”
103
ROLEX
18208
Day-Date “Malachite”
34
ROLEX
116598RBOW
Cosmograph Daytona “Rainbow”
70
TORNEK-RAYVILLE
TR-900
72
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
5000H
87
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
6782
“Turnograph”
108
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
6950
Chronomètre Royale
112
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
43050
Mercator “Europe-Asia”
5070J “Minute Repeater” World Time
Single Button “Ofcier”
02/11/18 16:53
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Guide for Prospective Buyers Buying at Auction The following pages are designed to ofer you information on how to buy at auction at Phillips. Our staf will be happy to assist you.
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Conditions of Sale The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty which appear later in this catalogue govern the auction. Bidders are strongly encouraged to read them as they outline the legal relationship among Phillips, the seller and the buyer and describe the terms upon which property is bought at auction. Please be advised that Phillips generally acts as agent for the seller.
Electrical and Mechanical Lots All lots with electrical and/or mechanical features are sold on the basis of their decorative value only and should not be assumed to be operative. It is essential that, prior to any intended use, the electrical system is verifed and approved by a qualifed electrician.
Buyer’s Premium Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or buyer’s premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The buyer’s premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 25% of the hammer price up to and including $300,000, 20% of the portion of the hammer price above $300,000 up to and including $4,000,000 and 12.5% of the portion of the hammer price above $4,000,000. 1 Prior to Auction Catalogue Subscriptions If you would like to purchase a catalogue for this auction or any other Phillips sale, please contact us at +1 212 940 1240 or +44 20 7318 4010. Pre-Sale Estimates Pre-sale estimates are intended as a guide for prospective buyers. Any bid within the high and low estimate range should, in our opinion, ofer a chance of success. However, many lots achieve prices below or above the pre-sale estimates. Where “Estimate on Request” appears, please contact the specialist department for further information. It is advisable to contact us closer to the time of the auction as estimates can be subject to revision. Pre-sale estimates do not include the buyer’s premium or any applicable taxes. Pre-Sale Estimates in Pounds Sterling and Euros Although the sale is conducted in US dollars, the pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogues may also be printed in pounds sterling and/or euros. Since the exchange rate is that at the time of catalogue production and not at the date of auction, you should treat estimates in pounds sterling or euros as a guide only. Catalogue Entries Phillips may print in the catalogue entry the history of ownership of a work of art, as well as the exhibition history of the property and references to the work in art publications. While we are careful in the cataloguing process, provenance, exhibition and literature references may not be exhaustive and in some cases we may intentionally refrain from disclosing the identity of previous owners. Please note that all dimensions of the property set forth in the catalogue entry are approximate. Condition of Lots Our catalogues include references to condition only in the descriptions of multiple works (e.g., prints). Such references, though, do not amount to a full description of condition. The absence of reference to the condition of a lot in the catalogue entry does not imply that the lot is free from faults or imperfections. Solely as a convenience to clients, Phillips may provide condition reports. In preparing such reports, our specialists assess the condition in a manner appropriate to the estimated value of the property and the nature of the auction in which it is included. While condition reports are prepared honestly and carefully, our staf are not professional restorers or trained conservators. We therefore encourage all prospective buyers to inspect the property at the pre-sale exhibitions and recommend, particularly in the case of any lot of signifcant value, that you retain your own restorer or professional advisor to report to you on the property’s condition prior to bidding. Any prospective buyer of photographs or prints should always request a condition report because all such property is sold unframed, unless otherwise indicated in the condition report. If a lot is sold framed, Phillips accepts no liability for the condition of the frame. If we sell any lot unframed, we will be pleased to refer the purchaser to a professional framer.
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Symbol Key The following key explains the symbols you may see inside this catalogue. O Guaranteed Property Lots designated with the symbol O are the subject of a minimum price guarantee. In such cases Phillips has guaranteed to the seller of the lot that regardless of the outcome of the sale the seller shall receive no less than a minimum sum. This guarantee may be provided solely by Phillips or jointly with a third party. ♦ Third Party Guarantee Where Phillips has agreed to a minimum price guarantee it assumes the fnancial risk of a lot failing to sell or selling for less than the minimum price guarantee. Because the sums involved can be signifcant Phillips may choose to share the burden of that fnancial risk with a third party. The third party shares the risk by committing in advance of the sale, usually by way of a written bid, to buy the lot for an agreed amount whether or not there are competing bidders for the lot. If there are competing bidders third party guarantors may also bid above any written bid. In this way the third party guarantor assumes the risk of the bidding not reaching the amount of the minimum price guarantee. In return for underwriting or sharing this risk Phillips will usually compensate the third party. The compensation may be in the form of a fxed fee or an amount calculated by reference to the hammer price of the lot. If the third party guarantor is the successful bidder Phillips will report the purchase price net of any fees paid to the third party guarantor.
Disclosure of fnancial interest by third parties Phillips requires third party guarantors to disclose their fnancial interest in the lot to anyone whom they are advising. If you are contemplating bidding on a lot which is the subject of a third party guarantee and you are being advised by someone or if you have asked someone to bid on your behalf you should always ask them to confrm whether or not they have a fnancial interest in the lot. ∆ Property in Which Phillips Has an Ownership Interest Lots with this symbol indicate that Phillips owns the lot in whole or in part or has an economic interest in the lot equivalent to an ownership interest. No Reserve •Unless indicated by a •, all lots in this catalogue are ofered subject to a reserve. A reserve is the confdential value established between Phillips and the seller and below which a lot may not be sold. The reserve for each lot is generally set at a percentage of the low estimate and will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate. ∑ Regulated Species Lots with this symbol have been identifed at the time of cataloguing as containing endangered or other protected species of wildlife which may be subject to restrictions regarding export or import and which may require permits for export as well as import. Please refer to Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers and Paragraph 11 of the Conditions of Sale.
2 Bidding in the Sale Bidding at Auction Bids may be executed during the auction in person by paddle, by telephone, online or prior to the sale in writing by absentee bid. Proof of identity in the form of government issued identifcation will be required, as will an original signature. We may also require that you furnish us with a bank reference.
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Bidding in Person To bid in person, you will need to register for and collect a paddle before the auction begins. New clients are encouraged to register at least 48 hours in advance of a sale to allow sufcient time for us to process your information. All lots sold will be invoiced to the name and address to which the paddle has been registered and invoices cannot be transferred to other names and addresses. Please do not misplace your paddle. In the event you lose it, inform a Phillips staf member immediately. At the end of the auction, please return your paddle to the registration desk. Bidding by Telephone If you cannot attend the auction, you may bid live on the telephone with one of our multi-lingual staf members. This service must be arranged at least 24 hours in advance of the sale and is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least $1,000. Telephone bids may be recorded. By bidding on the telephone, you consent to the recording of your conversation. We suggest that you leave a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicable taxes, which we can execute on your behalf in the event we are unable to reach you by telephone. Online Bidding If you cannot attend the auction in person, you may bid online on our online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. The digital saleroom is optimized to run on Google Chrome, Firefox, Opera and Internet Explorer browsers. Clients who wish to run the platform on Safari will need to install Adobe FlashPlayer. Follow the links to ‘Auctions’ and ‘Digital Saleroom’ and then pre-register by clicking on ‘Register to Bid Live.’ The frst time you register you will be required to create an account; thereafer you will only need to register for each sale. You must pre-register at least 24 hours before the start of the auction in order to be approved by our bid department. Please note that corporate frewalls may cause difculties for online bidders. Absentee Bids If you are unable to attend the auction and cannot participate by telephone, Phillips will be happy to execute written bids on your behalf. A bidding form can be found at the back of this catalogue. This service is free and confdential. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. Our staf will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Always indicate a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicable taxes. Unlimited bids will not be accepted. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence. Employee Bidding Employees of Phillips and our afliated companies, including the auctioneer, may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures. Bidding Increments Bidding generally opens below the low estimate and advances in increments of up to 10%, subject to the auctioneer’s discretion. Absentee bids that do not conform to the increments set below may be lowered to the next bidding increment. $50 to $1,000 $1,000 to $2,000 $2,000 to $3,000 $3,000 to $5,000 $5,000 to $10,000 $10,000 to $20,000 $20,000 to $30,000 $30,000 to $50,000 $50,000 to $100,000 $100,000 to $200,000 above $200,000
by $50s by $100s by $200s by $200s, 500, 800 (i.e., $4,200, 4,500, 4,800) by $500s by $1,000s by $2,000s by $2,000s, 5,000, 8,000 by $5,000s by $10,000s auctioneer’s discretion
The auctioneer may vary the increments during the course of the auction at his or her own discretion.
3 The Auction Conditions of Sale As noted above, the auction is governed by the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty. All prospective bidders should read them carefully. They may be amended by saleroom addendum or auctioneer’s announcement. Interested Parties Announcement In situations where a person allowed to bid on a lot has a direct or indirect interest in such lot, such as the benefciary or executor of an estate selling the lot, a joint owner of the lot or a party providing or participating in a guarantee on the lot, Phillips will make an announcement in the saleroom that interested parties may bid on the lot. Consecutive and Responsive Bidding; No Reserve Lots The auctioneer may open the bidding on any lot by placing a bid on behalf of the seller. The auctioneer may further bid on behalf of the seller up to the amount of the reserve by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot is ofered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low pre-sale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the auctioneer may deem such lot unsold. 4 Afer the Auction Payment Buyers are required to pay for purchases immediately following the auction unless other arrangements are agreed with Phillips in writing in advance of the sale. Payment must be made in US dollars either by cash, check drawn on a US bank or wire transfer, as noted in Paragraph 6 of the Conditions of Sale. It is our corporate policy not to make or accept single or multiple payments in cash or cash equivalents in excess of US$10,000. Credit Cards As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa and Mastercard to pay for invoices of $50,000 or less. Collection It is our policy to request proof of identity on collection of a lot. A lot will be released to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative when Phillips has received full and cleared payment and we are not owed any other amount by the buyer. Promptly afer the auction, we will transfer all lots to our warehouse located at 29-09 37th Avenue in Long Island City, Queens, New York. All purchased lots should be collected at this location during our regular weekday business hours. As a courtesy to clients, we will upon request transfer purchased lots suitable for hand carry back to our premises at 450 Park Avenue, New York, New York for collection within 30 days following the date of the auction. We will levy removal, interest, storage and handling charges on uncollected lots. Loss or Damage Buyers are reminded that Phillips accepts liability for loss or damage to lots for a maximum of seven days following the auction. Transport and Shipping As a free service for buyers, Phillips will wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. Alternatively, we will either provide packing, handling and shipping services or coordinate with shipping agents in order to facilitate such services for property purchased at Phillips. In the event that the property is collected in New York by the buyer or the buyer’s designee (including any private carrier) for subsequent transport out of state, Phillips may be required by law to collect New York sales tax, regardless of the lot’s ultimate destination. Please refer to Paragraph 17 of the Conditions of Sale for more information. Export and Import Licenses Before bidding for any property, prospective bidders are advised to make independent inquiries as to whether a license is required to export the property
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from the United States or to import it into another country. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to comply with all import and export laws and to obtain any necessary licenses or permits. The denial of any required license or permit or any delay in obtaining such documentation will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot. Regulated Species Items made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value, may require a license or certifcate prior to exportation and additional licenses or certifcates upon importation to any foreign country. Please note that the ability to obtain an export license or certifcate does not ensure the ability to obtain an import license or certifcate in another country, and vice versa. We suggest that prospective bidders check with their own government regarding wildlife import requirements prior to placing a bid. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any necessary export or import licenses or certifcates as well as any other required documentation. Please note that lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material are marked as a convenience to our clients, but Phillips does not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species. Privacy Our Privacy Policy is available at www.phillips.com or by emailing dataprotection@ phillips.com and sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data; (iii) the lawful bases we rely on when processing your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws. Phillips premises, sale, and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Phillips’ auctions will be flmed for simultaneous live broadcast on Phillips’ and third party websites and applications. Your communications with Phillips, including by phone and online (e.g. phone and on-line bidding) may be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
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Conditions of Sale The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty set forth below govern the relationship between bidders and buyers, on the one hand, and Phillips and sellers, on the other hand. All prospective buyers should read these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty carefully before bidding. 1 Introduction Each lot in this catalogue is ofered for sale and sold subject to: (a) the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty; (b) additional notices and terms printed in other places in this catalogue, including the Guide for Prospective Buyers, and (c) supplements to this catalogue or other written material posted by Phillips in the saleroom, in each case as amended by any addendum or announcement by the auctioneer prior to the auction. By bidding at the auction, whether in person, through an agent, by written bid, by telephone bid or other means, bidders and buyers agree to be bound by these Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty. These Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty contain all the terms on which Phillips and the seller contract with the buyer. 2 Phillips as Agent Phillips acts as an agent for the seller, unless otherwise indicated in this catalogue or at the time of auction. On occasion, Phillips may own a lot directly, in which case we will act in a principal capacity as a consignor, or a company afliated with Phillips may own a lot, in which case we will act as agent for that company, or Phillips or an afliated company may have a legal, benefcial or fnancial interest in a lot as a secured creditor or otherwise. 3 Catalogue Descriptions and Condition of Property Lots are sold subject to the Authorship Warranty, as described in the catalogue (unless such description is changed or supplemented, as provided in Paragraph 1 above) and in the condition that they are in at the time of the sale on the following basis. (a) The knowledge of Phillips in relation to each lot is partially dependent on information provided to us by the seller, and Phillips is not able to and does not carry out exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Prospective buyers acknowledge this fact and accept responsibility for carrying out inspections and investigations to satisfy themselves as to the lots in which they may be interested. Notwithstanding the foregoing, we shall exercise such reasonable care when making express statements in catalogue descriptions or condition reports as is consistent with our role as auctioneer of lots in this sale and in light of (i) the information provided to us by the seller, (ii) scholarship and technical knowledge and (iii) the generally accepted opinions of relevant experts, in each case at the time any such express statement is made. (b) Each lot ofered for sale at Phillips is available for inspection by prospective buyers prior to the auction. Phillips accepts bids on lots on the basis that bidders (and independent experts on their behalf, to the extent appropriate given the nature and value of the lot and the bidder’s own expertise) have fully inspected the lot prior to bidding and have satisfed themselves as to both the condition of the lot and the accuracy of its description. (c) Prospective buyers acknowledge that many lots are of an age and type which means that they are not in perfect condition. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips may prepare and provide condition reports to assist prospective buyers when they are inspecting lots. Catalogue descriptions and condition reports may make reference to particular imperfections of a lot, but bidders should note that lots may have other faults not expressly referred to in the catalogue or condition report. All dimensions are approximate. Illustrations are for identifcation purposes only and cannot be used as precise indications of size or to convey full information as to the actual condition of lots. (d) Information provided to prospective buyers in respect of any lot, including any pre-sale estimate, whether written or oral, and information in any catalogue, condition or other report, commentary or valuation, is not a representation of fact but rather a statement of opinion held by Phillips. Any pre-sale estimate may not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be
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revised from time to time by Phillips in our absolute discretion. Neither Phillips nor any of our afliated companies shall be liable for any diference between the presale estimates for any lot and the actual price achieved at auction or upon resale. 4 Bidding at Auction (a) Phillips has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction or participation in the sale. All bidders must register for a paddle prior to bidding, supplying such information and references as required by Phillips. (b) As a convenience to bidders who cannot attend the auction in person, Phillips may, if so instructed by the bidder, execute written absentee bids on a bidder’s behalf. Absentee bidders are required to submit bids on the Absentee Bid Form, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. The bidder must clearly indicate the maximum amount he or she intends to bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicable sales or use taxes. The auctioneer will not accept an instruction to execute an absentee bid which does not indicate such maximum bid. Our staf will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence. (c) Telephone bidders are required to submit bids on the Telephone Bid Form, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Telephone bidding is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least $1,000. Phillips reserves the right to require written confrmation of a successful bid from a telephone bidder by fax or otherwise immediately afer such bid is accepted by the auctioneer. Telephone bids may be recorded and, by bidding on the telephone, a bidder consents to the recording of the conversation. (d) Bidders may participate in an auction by bidding online through Phillips’s online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. To bid online, bidders must register online at least 24 hours before the start of the auction. Online bidding is subject to approval by Phillips’s bid department in our sole discretion. As noted in Paragraph 3 above, Phillips encourages online bidders to inspect prior to the auction any lot(s) on which they may bid, and condition reports are available upon request. Bidding in a live auction can progress quickly. To ensure that online bidders are not placed at a disadvantage when bidding against bidders in the room or on the telephone, the procedure for placing bids through Phillips’s online bidding platform is a one-step process. By clicking the bid button on the computer screen, a bidder submits a bid. Online bidders acknowledge and agree that bids so submitted are fnal and may not under any circumstances be amended or retracted. During a live auction, when bids other than online bids are placed, they will be displayed on the online bidder’s computer screen as ‘foor’ bids. ‘Floor’ bids include bids made by the auctioneer to protect the reserve. In the event that an online bid and a ‘foor’ or ‘phone’ bid are identical, the ‘foor’ bid may take precedence at the auctioneer’s discretion. The next bidding increment is shown for the convenience of online bidders in the bid button. The bidding increment available to online bidders may vary from the next bid actually taken by the auctioneer, as the auctioneer may deviate from Phillips’s standard increments at any time at his or her discretion, but an online bidder may only place a bid in a whole bidding increment. Phillips’s bidding increments are published in the Guide for Prospective Buyers. (e) When making a bid, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, a bidder accepts personal liability to pay the purchase price, as described more fully in Paragraph 6 (a) below, plus all other applicable charges unless it has been explicitly agreed in writing with Phillips before the commencement of the auction that the bidder is acting as agent on behalf of an identifed third party acceptable to Phillips and that we will only look to the principal for such payment. (f) By participating in the auction, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, each prospective buyer represents and warrants that any bids placed by such person, or on such person’s behalf, are not the product of any collusive or other anti-competitive agreement and are otherwise consistent with federal and state antitrust law.
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(g) Arranging absentee, telephone and online bids is a free service provided by Phillips to prospective buyers. While we undertake to exercise reasonable care in undertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for failure to execute such bids except where such failure is caused by our willful misconduct. (h) Employees of Phillips and our afliated companies, including the auctioneer, may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures. 5 Conduct of the Auction (a) Unless otherwise indicated by the symbol •, each lot is ofered subject to a reserve, which is the confdential minimum selling price agreed by Phillips with the seller. The reserve will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate at the time of the auction. (b) The auctioneer has discretion at any time to refuse any bid, withdraw any lot, re-ofer a lot for sale (including afer the fall of the hammer) if he or she believes there may be error or dispute and take such other action as he or she deems reasonably appropriate. Phillips shall have no liability whatsoever for any such action taken by the auctioneer. If any dispute arises afer the sale, our sale record is conclusive. The auctioneer may accept bids made by a company afliated with Phillips provided that the bidder does not know the reserve placed on the lot. (c) The auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding at levels and in increments he or she considers appropriate. In order to protect the reserve on any lot, the auctioneer may place one or more bids on behalf of the seller up to the reserve without indicating he or she is doing so, either by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot is ofered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low pre-sale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the auctioneer may deem such lot unsold. (d) The sale will be conducted in US dollars and payment is due in US dollars. For the beneft of international clients, pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogue may be shown in pounds sterling and/or euros and, if so, will refect approximate exchange rates. Accordingly, estimates in pounds sterling or euros should be treated only as a guide. If a currency converter is operated during the sale, it is done so as a courtesy to bidders, but Phillips accepts no responsibility for any errors in currency conversion calculation. (e) Subject to the auctioneer’s reasonable discretion, the highest bidder accepted by the auctioneer will be the buyer and the striking of the hammer marks the acceptance of the highest bid and the conclusion of a contract for sale between the seller and the buyer. Risk and responsibility for the lot passes to the buyer as set forth in Paragraph 7 below. (f) If a lot is not sold, the auctioneer will announce that it has been “passed,” “withdrawn,” “returned to owner” or “bought-in.” (g) Any post-auction sale of lots ofered at auction shall incorporate these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty as if sold in the auction. 6 Purchase Price and Payment (a) The buyer agrees to pay us, in addition to the hammer price of the lot, the buyer’s premium and any applicable sales tax (the “Purchase Price”). The buyer’s premium is 25% of the hammer price up to and including $300,000, 20% of the portion of the hammer price above $300,000 up to and including $4,000,000 and 12.5% of the portion of the hammer price above $4,000,000. Phillips reserves the right to pay from our compensation an introductory commission to one or more third parties for assisting in the sale of property ofered and sold at auction.
(b) Sales tax, use tax and excise and other taxes are payable in accordance with applicable law. All prices, fees, charges and expenses set out in these Conditions of Sale are quoted exclusive of applicable taxes. Phillips will only accept valid resale
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certifcates from US dealers as proof of exemption from sales tax. All foreign buyers should contact the Client Accounting Department about tax matters. (c) Unless otherwise agreed, a buyer is required to pay for a purchased lot immediately following the auction regardless of any intention to obtain an export or import license or other permit for such lot. Payments must be made by the invoiced party in US dollars either by cash, check drawn on a US bank or wire transfer, as follows: (i) Phillips will accept payment in cash provided that the total amount paid in cash or cash equivalents does not exceed US$10,000. Buyers paying in cash should do so in person at our Client Accounting Desk at 450 Park Avenue during regular weekday business hours. (ii) Personal checks and banker’s drafs are accepted if drawn on a US bank and the buyer provides to us acceptable government issued identifcation. Checks and banker’s drafs should be made payable to “Phillips.” If payment is sent by mail, please send the check or banker’s draf to the attention of the Client Accounting Department at 450 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10022 and make sure that the sale and lot number is written on the check. Checks or banker’s drafs drawn by third parties will not be accepted. (iii) Payment by wire transfer may be sent directly to Phillips. Bank transfer details: Citibank 322 West 23rd Street, New York, NY 10011 SWIFT Code: CITIUS33 ABA Routing: 021 000 089 For the account of Phillips Account no.: 58347736 Please reference the relevant sale and lot number. (d) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa and Mastercard to pay for invoices of $50,000 or less. (e) Title in a purchased lot will not pass until Phillips has received the Purchase Price for that lot in cleared funds. Phillips is not obliged to release a lot to the buyer until title in the lot has passed and appropriate identifcation has been provided, and any earlier release does not afect the passing of title or the buyer’s unconditional obligation to pay the Purchase Price. 7 Collection of Property (a) Phillips will not release a lot to the buyer until we have received payment of its Purchase Price in full in cleared funds, the buyer has paid all outstanding amounts due to Phillips or any of our afliated companies, including any charges payable pursuant to Paragraph 8 (a) below, and the buyer has satisfed such other terms as we in our sole discretion shall require, including completing any anti-money laundering or anti-terrorism fnancing checks. As soon as a buyer has satisfed all of the foregoing conditions, he or she should contact our Shipping Department at +1 212 940 1372 or +1 212 940 1373 to arrange for collection of purchased property. (b) The buyer must arrange for collection of a purchased lot within seven days of the date of the auction. Afer the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises. Purchased lots are at the buyer’s risk, including the responsibility for insurance, from (i) the date of collection or (ii) seven days afer the auction, whichever is the earlier. Until risk passes, Phillips will compensate the buyer for any loss or damage to a purchased lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Price paid, subject to our usual exclusions for loss or damage to property. (c) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will, without charge, wrap purchased lots for hand-carry only. We will, at the buyer’s expense, either provide packing, handling, insurance and shipping services or coordinate with shipping agents instructed by the buyer in order to facilitate such services for property bought at Phillips. Any such instruction, whether or not made at our recommendation, is entirely at the buyer’s risk and responsibility, and we will not be liable for acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers. Third party shippers should contact us by telephone at +1 212 940 1376 or by fax at +1 212 924 6477 at least 24 hours in advance of collection in order to schedule pickup.
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(d) Phillips will require presentation of government issued identifcation prior to release of a lot to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative. 8 Failure to Collect Purchases (a) If the buyer pays the Purchase Price but fails to collect a purchased lot within 30 days of the auction, the buyer will incur a late collection fee of $10 per day for each uncollected lot. Additional charges may apply to oversized lots. We will not release purchased lots to the buyer until all such charges have been paid in full. (b) If a purchased lot is paid for but not collected within six months of the auction, the buyer authorizes Phillips, upon notice, to arrange a resale of the item by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonable discretion. The proceeds of such sale will be applied to pay for storage charges and any other outstanding costs and expenses owed by the buyer to Phillips or our afliated companies and the remainder will be forfeited unless collected by the buyer within two years of the original auction. 9 Remedies for Non-Payment (a) Without prejudice to any rights the seller may have, if the buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment of the Purchase Price for a lot in cleared funds within seven days of the auction, Phillips may in our sole discretion exercise one or more of the following remedies: (i) store the lot at Phillips’s premises or elsewhere at the buyer’s sole risk and expense at the same rates as set forth in Paragraph 8 (a) above; (ii) cancel the sale of the lot, retaining any partial payment of the Purchase Price as liquidated damages; (iii) reject future bids from the buyer or render such bids subject to payment of a deposit; (iv) charge interest at 12% per annum from the date payment became due until the date the Purchase Price is received in cleared funds; (v) subject to notifcation of the buyer, exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in the possession of Phillips and instruct our afliated companies to exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in their possession and, in each case, no earlier than 30 days from the date of such notice, arrange the sale of such property and apply the proceeds to the amount owed to Phillips or any of our afliated companies afer the deduction from sale proceeds of our standard vendor’s commission and all sale-related expenses; (vi) resell the lot by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips reasonable discretion, it being understood that in the event such resale is for less than the original hammer price and buyer’s premium for that lot, the buyer will remain liable for the shortfall together with all costs incurred in such resale; (vii) commence legal proceedings to recover the hammer price and buyer’s premium for that lot, together with interest and the costs of such proceedings; (viii) set of the outstanding amount remaining unpaid by the buyer against any amounts which we or any of our afliated companies may owe the buyer in any other transactions; (ix) release the name and address of the buyer to the seller to enable the seller to commence legal proceedings to recover the amounts due and legal costs or (x) take such other action as we deem necessary or appropriate. (b) As security to us for full payment by the buyer of all outstanding amounts due to Phillips and our afliated companies, Phillips retains, and the buyer grants to us, a security interest in each lot purchased at auction by the buyer and in any other property or money of the buyer in, or coming into, our possession or the possession of one of our afliated companies. We may apply such money or deal with such property as the Uniform Commercial Code or other applicable law permits a secured creditor to do. In the event that we exercise a lien over property in our possession because the buyer is in default to one of our afliated companies, we will so notify the buyer. Our security interest in any individual lot will terminate upon actual delivery of the lot to the buyer or the buyer’s agent. (c) In the event the buyer is in default of payment to any of our afliated companies, the buyer also irrevocably authorizes Phillips to pledge the buyer’s property in our possession by actual or constructive delivery to our afliated company as security for the payment of any outstanding amount due. Phillips will notify the buyer if the buyer’s property has been delivered to an afliated company by way of pledge. 10 Rescission by Phillips Phillips shall have the right, but not the obligation, to rescind a sale without notice to the buyer if we reasonably believe that there is a material breach of the seller’s representations and warranties or the Authorship Warranty or an adverse claim
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is made by a third party. Upon notice of Phillips’s election to rescind the sale, the buyer will promptly return the lot to Phillips, and we will then refund the Purchase Price paid to us. As described more fully in Paragraph 13 below, the refund shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips and the seller with respect to such rescinded sale. 11 Export, Import and Endangered Species Licenses and Permits Before bidding for any property, prospective buyers are advised to make their own inquiries as to whether a license is required to export a lot from the US or to import it into another country. Prospective buyers are advised that some countries prohibit the import of property made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value. Accordingly, prior to bidding, prospective buyers considering export of purchased lots should familiarize themselves with relevant export and import regulations of the countries concerned. It is solely the buyer’s responsibility to comply with these laws and to obtain any necessary export, import and endangered species licenses or permits. Failure to obtain a license or permit or delay in so doing will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips has marked in the catalogue lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material, but we do not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species. 12 Privacy (a) You acknowledge and understand that we may process your personal data (including potentially special category data) in accordance with our privacy policy from time to time as published at www.phillips.com or available by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com. (b) Our privacy policy sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data (including for example the provision of auction, private sale and related services; the performance and enforcement of these terms and conditions; the carrying out of identity and credit checks; keeping you informed about upcoming auctions, exhibitions and special events; and generally where reasonably necessary in the management and operation of our business); (iii) the lawful bases on which we rely in undertaking our processing of your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws. (c) Phillips premises and sale and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes and will be flmed during the auction for simultaneous live broadcast on our and third party websites and applications. By remaining in these areas, you acknowledge that you may be photographed, flmed and recorded and grant your permission for your likeness and voice to be included in such recordings. If you do not wish to be photographed or flmed or appear in such recordings, please speak to a member of Phillips staf. Your communications with Phillips, including by telephone and online (e.g. telephone and on-line bidding) may also be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy available at www.phillips.com. 13 Limitation of Liability (a) Subject to subparagraph (e) below, the total liability of Phillips, our afliated companies and the seller to the buyer in connection with the sale of a lot shall be limited to the Purchase Price actually paid by the buyer for the lot. (b) Except as otherwise provided in this Paragraph 13, none of Phillips, any of our afliated companies or the seller (i) is liable for any errors or omissions, whether orally or in writing, in information provided to prospective buyers by Phillips or any of our afliated companies or (ii) accepts responsibility to any bidder in respect of acts or omissions, whether negligent or otherwise, by Phillips or any of our afliated companies in connection with the conduct of the auction or for any other matter relating to the sale of any lot.
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(c) All warranties other than the Authorship Warranty, express or implied, including any warranty of satisfactory quality and ftness for purpose, are specifcally excluded by Phillips, our afliated companies and the seller to the fullest extent permitted by law. (d) Subject to subparagraph (e) below, none of Phillips, any of our afliated companies or the seller shall be liable to the buyer for any loss or damage beyond the refund of the Purchase Price referred to in subparagraph (a) above, whether such loss or damage is characterized as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the Purchase Price to the fullest extent permitted by law. (e) No provision in these Conditions of Sale shall be deemed to exclude or limit the liability of Phillips or any of our afliated companies to the buyer in respect of any fraud or fraudulent misrepresentation made by any of us or in respect of death or personal injury caused by our negligent acts or omissions. 14 Copyright The copyright in all images, illustrations and written materials produced by or for Phillips relating to a lot, including the contents of this catalogue, is and shall remain at all times the property of Phillips and such images and materials may not be used by the buyer or any other party without our prior written consent. Phillips and the seller make no representations or warranties that the buyer of a lot will acquire any copyright or other reproduction rights in it. 15 General (a) These Conditions of Sale, as changed or supplemented as provided in Paragraph 1 above, and Authorship Warranty set out the entire agreement between the parties with respect to the transactions contemplated herein and supersede all prior and contemporaneous written, oral or implied understandings, representations and agreements. (b) Notices to Phillips shall be in writing and addressed to the department in charge of the sale, quoting the reference number specifed at the beginning of the sale catalogue. Notices to clients shall be addressed to the last address notifed by them in writing to Phillips. (c) These Conditions of Sale are not assignable by any buyer without our prior written consent but are binding on the buyer’s successors, assigns and representatives. (d) Should any provision of these Conditions of Sale be held void, invalid or unenforceable for any reason, the remaining provisions shall remain in full force and efect. No failure by any party to exercise, nor any delay in exercising, any right or remedy under these Conditions of Sale shall act as a waiver or release thereof in whole or in part. 16 Law and Jurisdiction (a) The rights and obligations of the parties with respect to these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty, the conduct of the auction and any matters related to any of the foregoing shall be governed by and interpreted in accordance with laws of the State of New York, excluding its conficts of law rules. (b) Phillips, all bidders and all sellers agree to the exclusive jurisdiction of the (i) state courts of the State of New York located in New York City and (ii) the federal courts for the Southern and Eastern Districts of New York to settle all disputes arising in connection with all aspects of all matters or transactions to which these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty relate or apply. (c) All bidders and sellers irrevocably consent to service of process or any other documents in connection with proceedings in any court by facsimile transmission, personal service, delivery by mail or in any other manner permitted by New York law or the law of the place of service, at the last address of the bidder or seller known to Phillips.
(b) If the point of delivery or transfer of possession for any purchased lot to the buyer or the buyer’s designee (including any private carrier) occurs in New York, then the sale is subject to New York sales tax at the existing rate of 8.875%. (c) If the buyer arranges shipping for any purchased lot in New York by a common carrier (such as the United States Postal Service, United Parcel Service, or FedEx) that does not operate under a private agreement or contract with negotiated terms to be delivered to an out of state destination, then the sale is not subject to New York sales tax.
Authorship Warranty Phillips warrants the authorship of property in this auction catalogue described in headings in bold or CAPITALIZED type for a period of fve years from date of sale by Phillips, subject to the exclusions and limitations set forth below. (a) Phillips gives this Authorship Warranty only to the original buyer of record (i.e., the registered successful bidder) of any lot. This Authorship Warranty does not extend to (i) subsequent owners of the property, including purchasers or recipients by way of gif from the original buyer, heirs, successors, benefciaries and assigns; (ii) property where the description in the catalogue states that there is a confict of opinion on the authorship of the property; (iii) property where our attribution of authorship was on the date of sale consistent with the generally accepted opinions of specialists, scholars or other experts; (iv) property whose description or dating is proved inaccurate by means of scientifc methods or tests not generally accepted for use at the time of the publication of the catalogue or which were at such time deemed unreasonably expensive or impractical to use or likely in our reasonable opinion to have caused damage or loss in value to the lot or (v) property where there has been no material loss in value from the value of the lot had it been as described in the heading of the catalogue entry. (b) In any claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty, Phillips reserves the right, as a condition to rescinding any sale under this warranty, to require the buyer to provide to us at the buyer’s expense the written opinions of two recognized experts approved in advance by Phillips. We shall not be bound by any expert report produced by the buyer and reserve the right to consult our own experts at our expense. If Phillips agrees to rescind a sale under the Authorship Warranty, we shall refund to the buyer the reasonable costs charged by the experts commissioned by the buyer and approved in advance by us. (c) Subject to the exclusions set forth in subparagraph (a) above, the buyer may bring a claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty provided that (i) he or she has notifed Phillips in writing within three months of receiving any information which causes the buyer to question the authorship of the lot, specifying the auction in which the property was included, the lot number in the auction catalogue and the reasons why the authorship of the lot is being questioned and (ii) the buyer returns the lot to Phillips to the saleroom in which it was purchased in the same condition as at the time of its auction and is able to transfer good and marketable title in the lot free from any third party claim arising afer the date of the auction. Phillips has discretion to waive any of the foregoing requirements set forth in this subparagraph (c) or subparagraph (b) above. (d) The buyer understands and agrees that the exclusive remedy for any breach of the Authorship Warranty shall be rescission of the sale and refund of the original Purchase Price paid. This remedy shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips, any of our afliated companies and the seller and is in lieu of any other remedy available as a matter of law or equity. This means that none of Phillips, any of our afliated companies or the seller shall be liable for loss or damage beyond the remedy expressly provided in this Authorship Warranty, whether such loss or damage is characterized as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the original Purchase Price.
17 Sales Tax (a) Unless the buyer has delivered a valid certifcate evidencing exemption from tax, the buyer shall pay applicable sales tax on any lot picked up or delivered anywhere in the United States.
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Sale Information
Sale information New York, 5 December 2018 Auction & Viewing Location 450 Park Avenue New York Auction 5 December 2018, 6pm Viewing Friday November 30, 10am-6pm Saturday December 1, 10am-6pm Sunday December 2, 12pm-6pm Monday December 3, 10am-6pm Tuesday December 4, 10am-6pm Wednesday December 5, 10am-2pm Sale Designation When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as NY080118 or STYLED. Timeless Watches Absentee and Telephone Bids Tel +1 212 940 1228 Fax +1 212 940 1749 bidsnewyork@phillips.com
Geneva Senior Consultant Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com Senior Consultant Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com Executive Assistant to Senior Consultants Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com Head of Sale & Specialist Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189 aghotbi@phillips.com Specialist Tifany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com Specialist Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182 vliatard@phillips.com Specialist & Head of Digital Strategy Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com
Watch Department New York Head of Americas International Strategy Advisor Paul Boutros +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com Senior International Specialist Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com Business Development Manager Manon Bega +1 212 940 1274 mbega@phillips.com Cataloguer, Associate Specialist Isabella Proia +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com Administrator Daniella Rosa +1 212 940 1395 drosa@phillips.com
Specialist & Business Development Associate Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com Regional Director, Business Development Director Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com
Hong Kong Head of Watches, Asia Thomas Perazzi +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com Specialist, Business Development Director Jill Chen +852 2318 2033 jchen@phillips.com Specialist Zi Yong Ho +852 2318 2032 zho@phillips.com
Client Accounts clientaccountswatches@phillips.com Shipping shippingwatches@phillips.com Photography David Brinn Williams Photography
Associate Specialist, Cataloguer Stasia Mui +852 2318 2035 smui@phillips.com Cataloguer Kenneth Chan +852 2318 2045 kchan@phillips.com Administrator Jacky Lam +852 2318 2031 jackylam@phillips.com London International Specialist James Marks +44 20 7901 7916 jmarks@phillips.com Paris International Business Development Director Pansy Ku +33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com
Business Development Manager Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com
Tokyo Senior Specialist Consultant Genki Sakamoto +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com
Administrator Alexia Bénard +41 22 317 9667 abenard@phillips.com
Senior Consultant Kaz Fujimoto +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com
Shipping & Ofce Coordinator Alban Aubertin +41 22 317 96 60 aaubertin@phillips.com
Taiwan Senior Specialist Cindy Yen +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com
Catalogues apokora@phillips.com Catalogues $50/50 CHF/£35
Consultant Zachary Lu +852 2318 2034 zlu@phillips.com
WIMBLEDON View of Wimbledon, outside Centre Court. Photograph by Bettmann/Getty Images GOODWOOD Start line of the Kinrara Trophy race at the Goodwood Revival Meeting, September 2018. Photograph by Jayson Fong. Courtesy of Goodwood SAFARI Tourist on safari in Kenya, 1989. Photograph by by Michel Huet/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images POSITANO Amalf, on the Sorrento Peninsula, Italy, 1984. Photograph by Slim Aarons/Getty Images BUSINESS A view of Wall Street and Federal Hall in the Financial District in New York City, 1976. Photograph by Donaldson Collection/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images EVENINGWEAR The 10th Cannes Film Festival, 1957. Photograph by Jack Garofalo/Paris Match via Getty Images HAMPTONS Westhampton Beach New York, 2014. Photograph by Overfightstock Ltd/Alamy WATCH ENTHUSIASTS’ GATHERING Amy Shore/Revolution APRÈS-SKI St Moritz. Photograph by Izzet Keribar/Lonely Planet Images via Getty Images WEDDING Newlyweds leaving a church. Photograph by Bettmann/Getty Images CARIBBEAN The harbour of Gustavia, Saint-Barthélemy. Photograph by Reed Kaestner/Getty Images ART BASEL Art Basel Miami, 2017. Photograph courtesy Art Basel
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phillipswatches.com mrporter.com therake.com
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