Thread Number: 31377
Look what came home with me from Manchester |
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Post# 473648   11/6/2010 at 09:45 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473649 , Reply# 1   11/6/2010 at 09:47 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473650 , Reply# 2   11/6/2010 at 09:49 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473651 , Reply# 3   11/6/2010 at 09:50 (4,934 days old) by aquarius1984 (Planet earth)   |   | |
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Post# 473652 , Reply# 4   11/6/2010 at 09:52 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473654 , Reply# 5   11/6/2010 at 09:58 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473655 , Reply# 6   11/6/2010 at 10:01 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473656 , Reply# 7   11/6/2010 at 10:03 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473657 , Reply# 8   11/6/2010 at 10:05 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473658 , Reply# 9   11/6/2010 at 10:10 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473659 , Reply# 10   11/6/2010 at 10:14 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473660 , Reply# 11   11/6/2010 at 10:16 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473661 , Reply# 12   11/6/2010 at 10:19 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473662 , Reply# 13   11/6/2010 at 10:22 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473663 , Reply# 14   11/6/2010 at 10:26 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473664 , Reply# 15   11/6/2010 at 10:32 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Down loading some of the first videos now, so will be online in a few hours time, you can see the outcome of the first test.
Photo from inside of that longed for purple door; I can’t quite believe I have one at last. My youtube link. CLICK HERE TO GO TO hotpoint95622's LINK |
Post# 473666 , Reply# 16   11/6/2010 at 11:01 (4,934 days old) by dj-gabriele ()   |   | |
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Congratulations! That's a nice machine :) But now, can you answer a coupe of questions? Why did the timer have two motors? And what is that spring mechanism near the pulley in the second last photo? Thank you! |
Post# 473668 , Reply# 17   11/6/2010 at 11:41 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Two motors on the timer.
First one turns the sub-interval cams, tumble direction and tumble lengths. Second one turns the main cam barrel. The spring mechanism is the pecker, which is part of the door interlock. If the drum is rotating in any direction the pecker will be pushed away by the belt on the pulley which in turn stops the door release button from operating the lock, it's all to do with resistance in the cable, like the breaks on your peddle cycle. |
Post# 473669 , Reply# 18   11/6/2010 at 11:45 (4,934 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)   |   | |
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i am thinking one motor drives the program timer while the other one drives the switch for forward/reverse tumble action? good that there are plenty of cool vintage washers over in the U.K. and europe too! |
Post# 473671 , Reply# 19   11/6/2010 at 11:49 (4,934 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)   |   | |
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thanks for explaning that "pecker"against the belt-that was a real mystery! |
Post# 473673 , Reply# 20   11/6/2010 at 12:07 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Jobs to do:-
Good cleaning required Door chrome needs cleaning, it also pitted, and I’m not sure how to go about this Paint job around the soap draw Paint job around the kick strip and under carriage New door seal required as the one on it has stick rubber syndrome That bit of a leak, the pressure vessel has split and the seal around the heater also, again I’m not sure how to go about the pressure vessel. Small amount of rust around the lip of the outer tub where the door seal is seated Not to bad for some 35 years of age. Will down load some photos of the above jobs tomorrow. |
Post# 473677 , Reply# 22   11/6/2010 at 13:13 (4,934 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)   |   | |
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Post# 473687 , Reply# 23   11/6/2010 at 14:21 (4,934 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473701 , Reply# 25   11/6/2010 at 15:33 (4,934 days old) by richardc1983 (Leeds, UK)   |   | |
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Post# 473718 , Reply# 26   11/6/2010 at 17:12 (4,934 days old) by paulinroyton (B)   |   | |
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Lee Great machine, bet she will look fantastic when you cleaned her up. I did not know that this model had a enamel drum. It just goes to show they made them great in the good olden days, lol. Cheers Paul |
Post# 473759 , Reply# 28   11/7/2010 at 03:29 (4,934 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Morning Lee,
Congratulations from me, Gary and Mathew, (all down in Saltash for another vanload!!!...LOl) Really glad you got it, you`ve waited long enough and here it is...the drum looks mint straight from the 1600 series, cant wait too see vids etc... would be interested how it performs when spinning given the drum must weigh heavier than the later metal ones!!! And we`ve just noticed the circuit board is located next to the timer on top which is different...Ohhh a very interesting machine!!! Do you you need a dryer?? if so phone Crewe...LOL just joking boys... Phone me, I have a spare, cant let a machine like that not have a playmate!!! Cheers, from Keymatic Central!!!, Mike |
Post# 473761 , Reply# 29   11/7/2010 at 03:44 (4,934 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Post# 473781 , Reply# 31   11/7/2010 at 07:50 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Thank you to every one, I’m still pinching myself.
Circuit board, yes while it was lying on its back in the car I thought, bloody hell where is the speed module gone, how am I going to find a replacement, then on closer inspection I could not find the wiring down there, where I was expecting it to be. When the back came off I found some more things I was not expecting, PCB at the back of the options switches, and the timer is a monster with two motors and no thermo stop solenoid. Just noticed that there are no springs at the top, just the three dampers at the bottom, which float relay well. The baffles are the same the full length front to back, my thoughts when picking up this machine where what condition would it be in, luckily it’s mint, not a chip anywhere. Matching dryer, I would love to have one, but it’s the age old thing of not having the room at the moment to accommodate one. So on with the show, spent the morning stripping down and cleaning. Photo of the PCB, it’s rather a simply no nonsense one. |
Post# 473782 , Reply# 32   11/7/2010 at 07:51 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473783 , Reply# 33   11/7/2010 at 07:54 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473785 , Reply# 34   11/7/2010 at 08:01 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Now for the problems.
First the bed wetting. The pressure vessel has split, I have thought of perhaps injecting silicon into the cracks or using the rubber patches in a cycle puncture repair kit. Can any one make any suggestions, perhaps you have fixed this sort of problem before, and one thing is for certain I can’t buy a replacement. |
Post# 473786 , Reply# 35   11/7/2010 at 08:04 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473787 , Reply# 36   11/7/2010 at 08:05 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473788 , Reply# 37   11/7/2010 at 08:06 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473789 , Reply# 38   11/7/2010 at 08:09 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473791 , Reply# 39   11/7/2010 at 08:12 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473792 , Reply# 40   11/7/2010 at 08:15 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473810 , Reply# 41   11/7/2010 at 10:02 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473811 , Reply# 42   11/7/2010 at 10:08 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473812 , Reply# 43   11/7/2010 at 10:12 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473813 , Reply# 44   11/7/2010 at 10:14 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 473856 , Reply# 46   11/7/2010 at 15:02 (4,933 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Not yet, keep going out to the garage to make sure it is the real deal.
I have ordered the door boot and made some inquires for the enamel paint for that small patch on the lip of the outer tub, it will also come in for the 18680 which also has the same small patch in the same place, its for repairing cast iron baths. Just that rubber pressure vessel, what to do with that???? |
Post# 473857 , Reply# 47   11/7/2010 at 15:06 (4,933 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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...but could a later 18series or 95series pressure vessel work on the 1851/03? Below is a piccy of our 18361 in the throes of repair... |
Post# 473895 , Reply# 48   11/7/2010 at 18:54 (4,933 days old) by bertrum ()   |   | |
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Hi nice old machine. with regard the pressure pot, masterpart still sell them 161832 £16.37 and in stock. Amazing the parts still available for this old machine. |
Post# 474015 , Reply# 49   11/8/2010 at 12:25 (4,932 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 474189 , Reply# 50   11/9/2010 at 12:38 (4,931 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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I must be looking in the wrong place, www.masterpart.com... have responded to my e-mail “we no longer supply this part, try Hotpoint direct” which also say it’s an obsolete part.
So will try the silicon first and if that doesn’t work I will try the rubber cycle patches. |
Post# 474204 , Reply# 51   11/9/2010 at 14:07 (4,931 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Hello LEE
Congrats on your drive and sheer bloody determination to get this machine form the git who had it. It is to his advantage that you have the skills to restore and service this machine up to spec. It will look brilliant in you collection, maybe some barbed wire to cordon off that area :-) now i had an outlet pipe on an old Hoover twin tub that had cracked and was shagged...... I got from a tyre fitting place some liquid rubber (they use it for sealing tyres on rims), painted it on let it dry and painted on some more and this did the trick, it is highly volatile this stuff and gets you high as kite if your not careful but that worked On the other hand i cannot see why any of the silicon rubber sealants woudn't do the job either Anyways glad you got it and now your life is complete well you wont be wanting any more machines will you :-) LOL Gary |
Post# 474219 , Reply# 52   11/9/2010 at 15:30 (4,931 days old) by bertrum ()   |   | |
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Hi according to there website its in stock but I think they need to update there system, not for the first time. Im not going mad, check out this screen shot! |
Post# 474338 , Reply# 53   11/10/2010 at 09:00 (4,930 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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I have a bit of a sore head, the fecking up and over garage door spring and cables snapped as my hand left it in the up position, it smacked down on my head and the spring shatters into three pieces. Barstewarded.
To day I have spent some time working on the option switch as the auto prewash and gentle action switches worked but are a bit sticky and would stay locked in and the rinse hold one would not lock in at all, OMG what a pig when you have them apart it’s so difficult to aligned the small spring mechanism at the back, but all work now. |
Post# 474348 , Reply# 55   11/10/2010 at 11:03 (4,930 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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In all seriousness, I hope your head is OK after the garage door attack. Paul |
Post# 474386 , Reply# 56   11/10/2010 at 13:18 (4,930 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 474402 , Reply# 57   11/10/2010 at 14:38 (4,930 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Yes, if the garage door wasn’t doing its sterling work of keeping my machines safe it would have had a fist and a boot put thought it, the air was very blue for some time, even the dogs run for cover, it’s done this to me before, last time the runners broke away from the frame and took me with it, anyway back to work tomorrow oh what a bore.
The new door seal has arrived, so that’s another part ready for the re-build. Thanks Paul for the cleaning tip, will try the very weak solution on the rebuild. |
Post# 474405 , Reply# 58   11/10/2010 at 15:11 (4,930 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 474484 , Reply# 59   11/11/2010 at 12:53 (4,929 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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No way, the committee where all at home today, much quieter time at work; I spent most of the day in the store making out a stationery order. If I stayed at home I would have been nagged to within an inch of my life, it started first thing this morning about not having a shave for the last few days, Christ I hate shaving, so that made my mind up I’m off to work.
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Post# 474524 , Reply# 60   11/11/2010 at 14:20 (4,929 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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I havent shaved since last week! Am trying to muster the energy to go and dig out the razor. I HATE shaving too. Paul p.s any more 1851/03 tinkering news? |
Post# 474539 , Reply# 61   11/11/2010 at 17:18 (4,929 days old) by aquarius1984 (Planet earth)   |   | |
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Post# 474949 , Reply# 62   11/14/2010 at 06:10 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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This morning I have had a play with that pressure pot, this may work or may be a complete disaster, I have made a moulding out of cardboard threaded a length of wire thought the outlet tube and placed the cardboard in the main inlet, then injected silicon into the body of the pot till the silicon came out around the main inlet, it also seeped out of the many cracks in the rubber, the seepage was then rubbed around the body of the tub to ensure all where filled.
If this works the pressure switch will have to be fine-tuned for the water level. |
Post# 474950 , Reply# 63   11/14/2010 at 06:12 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 474951 , Reply# 64   11/14/2010 at 06:19 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 474952 , Reply# 65   11/14/2010 at 06:23 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 474953 , Reply# 66   11/14/2010 at 06:27 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 474955 , Reply# 67   11/14/2010 at 06:30 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 474958 , Reply# 68   11/14/2010 at 06:45 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 474960 , Reply# 69   11/14/2010 at 06:50 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 474963 , Reply# 70   11/14/2010 at 07:04 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 474964 , Reply# 71   11/14/2010 at 07:08 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 474969 , Reply# 72   11/14/2010 at 07:20 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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I have found a local powder coat specialist firm just down the road so will take the consol panel and see how much they will charge to strip, treat and re-coat the panels for me as I think this is to much for me to do myself with my armature spraying skills not up to a standard for such a classic machine.
If it’s not to expensive I may consider having the 18680 spruced up too. They carrier out powder coating and also spray painting. |
Post# 475012 , Reply# 75   11/14/2010 at 11:52 (4,926 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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OI! spiders are good mates to have, they eat all the other rotten gits around i would rather have spiders in the house than wasps!
Shaving I havent havent shaved for over two weeks i have a full beard which is rapidly turning me into a mad rasputin lookalike......no good points other than it keeps me face warm at work. Restoration You said in another thread that we are so alike well i totally agree, your thinking on how to solve problems is like mine practical and hands on and a bit have-a-go harry ;-) so i can only applaud you on your approach and efforts so far to get this classic machine back to its former glory, i reckon you will do it aswell ;-) now here is possibly another place for Paul and his pot of Astonish polish to visit ;-), coz like i said before after i have spent a lot of time restoring the mechanics on a machine i am too fagged out to clean it all up. Keep it up Gary Ps we are also alike on the give a good kicking approach to things that annoy us ;-) |
Post# 475013 , Reply# 76   11/14/2010 at 11:53 (4,926 days old) by paulc (Edinburgh, Scotland)   |   | |
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Post# 475027 , Reply# 77   11/14/2010 at 12:19 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Thanks folks for the words of encouragement, I’m finding this restoration very therapeutic and most enjoyable.
Silver facia is to be preserved at all cost, you mean this, and it was only stuck on in the smallest of patches and was easily removed with a kitchen spatula with out kinking or creasing it, it seem sound with no flaking or cracking, it will be re-attached with some double sided tape after the repaint. Lee |
Post# 475041 , Reply# 79   11/14/2010 at 12:33 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Forgot to mention, some chap came to look at that bloody up and over garage door spring, to measure it as there are many sizes, he only upset me by saying “I can make you an automatic door opener with the motor out of that old broken up washer, the one over in the corner under the workbench” I pushed him out of the garage removing the hard broom which the handle of has been doing a sterling job of holding the door open and shut the very volatile garage door behind him saying he was far to expensive had a cheaper price, bye then as I shoved him into his car. Flaming automatic door opener, what planet is he on.
“OMG” if I get home and the garage door opens by it self as I park the car next to it I will have a fit. |
Post# 475044 , Reply# 80   11/14/2010 at 12:40 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Seem that the washer fascias are prone to rust around the powder unit, must be the steam from all those program number 1’s 95c, odd as these models have steam-overflow vents at the back of the draw units venting to the back of the machine, some thing to consider when the rebuild starts, perhaps a ring of that soft spongy edge draft excluder tape to help seal out the damp.
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Post# 475047 , Reply# 81   11/14/2010 at 12:47 (4,926 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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I reckon he was a plant by your dad ;-)
If you want to seal around the soap draw bit use a rubber sealing/weather strip it wont absorb moisture, you can get a "P" section one of ebay in white But i would think once it has been re-sprayed it will be ok, because the original spray jobs were not that good in the first place, no undercoat etc job carried out as quickly as possible so thinnest layer of paint Teknikal Ted |
Post# 475052 , Reply# 82   11/14/2010 at 12:53 (4,926 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 475053 , Reply# 83   11/14/2010 at 12:54 (4,926 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 475063 , Reply# 84   11/14/2010 at 13:37 (4,926 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Lee, well done on getting stuck in so quickly, always helps when you can enjoy it...must say for its age that plinth chassiss looks in remarkably good nic...no build up of anything of flaking underneath, just the corner parts etc...
How does the tub turn?? bearings smooth enough?? looks a lovely colour, powder coating is the way to go, after seeing that drawer would have been well naffed to have paid over the odds on the first price!!! enjoy, Mike |
Post# 475225 , Reply# 86   11/15/2010 at 12:51 (4,925 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Mike. The drum and bearings are in mint condition, which was of great surprise, no signs of weeping oil on the back plate either, so the bearing seal is ok too, on the journey to collect it my thoughts where what condition is the enamelled drum going to be in, I envisioned it with rusting holes and chips out of it and having bearings that sound like a steam roller rolling over gravel. I’ve also had a peep though the pressure pot fixing hole in the outer tub, and can’t see any corrosion around the sump and the don’t know what to call it, suppose it’s a water baffle which runs front to back over the sump hole, the heater has very little calcium build-up so it’s been in a soft water area. As for the paint, I would like to have the powder coating but will have to see how much it’s going to cost first, I certainly can’t do it justice doing the spray painting myself, as for the cost, I have paid over the odds, but just had to have it. Si. Time will tell if the silicone had worked, it’s going to take some time to cure. And then the removal of the cardboard insert, which has most likely stuck to it like the preverbal on a blanket. Lee |
Post# 475236 , Reply# 87   11/15/2010 at 13:17 (4,925 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 475240 , Reply# 88   11/15/2010 at 13:26 (4,925 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 475281 , Reply# 90   11/15/2010 at 14:44 (4,925 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 475292 , Reply# 91   11/15/2010 at 15:02 (4,925 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Raise you a fiver and give you a tenner!!!...lol,
Really glad the vitreous tub is in good nick, its the one thing that makes your machine stand out from the rest of the crowd of the 18.. series... I wonder if the 1600 was similar?? perhaps Nige can answer!! If you can wait till spring, pop across to the next midlands meet and introduce yourself to the "Spa of Neil & Bob" you could easily take the wrap around cabinet off!! |
Post# 475483 , Reply# 92   11/16/2010 at 12:21 (4,924 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 475495 , Reply# 93   11/16/2010 at 12:37 (4,924 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 475509 , Reply# 94   11/16/2010 at 13:36 (4,924 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 475515 , Reply# 95   11/16/2010 at 13:49 (4,924 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Lee
i have used silicon sealant for years without problems of that kind, dont forget most of them are oil/petrol/high temperature resistant. I reckon that will be fine matey ;-) where you all excited coming home from work to see if it had worked ? I usually am when i am waiting for things to set/dry etc |
Post# 475520 , Reply# 96   11/16/2010 at 14:01 (4,924 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 475521 , Reply# 97   11/16/2010 at 14:04 (4,924 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 475522 , Reply# 98   11/16/2010 at 14:05 (4,924 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 475526 , Reply# 100   11/16/2010 at 14:23 (4,924 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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Model 1851 - with interlock over the 1850: the only image I have is taken from my copy of an instruction manual. It insinuates that the 1851 was visually identical to the 1850. see below... |
Post# 475532 , Reply# 102   11/16/2010 at 14:35 (4,924 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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'ELECTRONIC' template for you below... |
Post# 475537 , Reply# 103   11/16/2010 at 14:53 (4,924 days old) by reversomatic (east anglia,england,u.k.)   |   | |
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Hi Mike and all, as regards to similarity of 1850 and 1600 tub/drums the only similarity is the colour of the vitreous enamel.The 1600 drum had a more flat front as apposed to the 1850 having a large curved front lip.The drum baffles were very similar though.Interesting thing about the 1600 drum spider is that is was plastic coated so didnt corrode.Good see these NEWER MACHINES being cared for,or it seems that way when you get to my age. Lee R.E. pressure chambers ,should still be out there somewhere as they where used up to new generation machines with stainless steel front drum plate.Great work so far congratulations.Regards Nige.
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Post# 475774 , Reply# 105   11/17/2010 at 11:48 (4,923 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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Hi Lee. Hope these will come in useful or, at the very least, interesting.... |
Post# 475775 , Reply# 106   11/17/2010 at 11:50 (4,923 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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the top facia is the the Hotpoint that never was, in the form of the single button, single powder compartment, cold fill only model 1840 - simply to have been known as 'LIBERATOR'... |
Post# 475777 , Reply# 107   11/17/2010 at 11:51 (4,923 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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the 1840 Hotpoint Liberator... |
Post# 475778 , Reply# 108   11/17/2010 at 11:52 (4,923 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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and the 1850 and 1851... |
Post# 475779 , Reply# 109   11/17/2010 at 11:53 (4,923 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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... |
Post# 475781 , Reply# 110   11/17/2010 at 11:54 (4,923 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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'container'! and associated equipment... |
Post# 475782 , Reply# 111   11/17/2010 at 11:55 (4,923 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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... |
Post# 475783 , Reply# 112   11/17/2010 at 11:56 (4,923 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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cabinet assembly and associated parts... |
Post# 475785 , Reply# 113   11/17/2010 at 11:57 (4,923 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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... |
Post# 475787 , Reply# 114   11/17/2010 at 11:58 (4,923 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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console parts... |
Post# 475788 , Reply# 115   11/17/2010 at 12:02 (4,923 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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hope they are useful. paul p.s if your part 24 ever breaks (the door release push button extention), then let me know. I have spares of these. p.p.s have attached again below in a slightly bigger photo |
Post# 475789 , Reply# 116   11/17/2010 at 12:03 (4,923 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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and the pecker switch arrangement, slightly bigger... |
Post# 475820 , Reply# 117   11/17/2010 at 13:08 (4,923 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 475829 , Reply# 118   11/17/2010 at 13:32 (4,923 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 475830 , Reply# 119   11/17/2010 at 13:36 (4,923 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 475831 , Reply# 120   11/17/2010 at 13:39 (4,923 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 475835 , Reply# 121   11/17/2010 at 13:51 (4,923 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 475838 , Reply# 122   11/17/2010 at 14:00 (4,923 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 475841 , Reply# 123   11/17/2010 at 14:06 (4,923 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Lee, can see how the tube was in the bottom part of the pot but what about the main part, was it completely filled or did you insert a liner inside the main pot as well?? enquiring minds need to know!!!
Also is there a ratio formula to the size of air space in the pot?? to the size of the bellows in the pressure switch, or put another way, if the pot size is reduced will you have enough play in the pressure stat?? Cheers, Mike |
Post# 475842 , Reply# 124   11/17/2010 at 14:10 (4,923 days old) by servisslimline (England, Brighton & Hove)   |   | |
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Post# 475848 , Reply# 125   11/17/2010 at 14:18 (4,923 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Hi, Mike
The pot is almost full to the top, there where so many cracks and leaks in it, as for the ratio to the size of air space and the adjustment of the pressure switch, well it’s a case of suck it and see, the water level at the limit of the adjustments may be just below the bowel of the door or half way to the top I just don’t know????? |
Post# 475850 , Reply# 126   11/17/2010 at 14:27 (4,923 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 475854 , Reply# 127   11/17/2010 at 14:46 (4,923 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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Hi Lee and Phil The 1850, 1851 and 1851/03 all had enamel drums, with the 1828/01 (prototypes) and 1828/02 (production) ushering in the Stainless Steel drum age for Hotpoint. Paul |
Post# 476103 , Reply# 128   11/18/2010 at 13:38 (4,922 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Thanks Paul for the information.
Not much to say today, I have ordered the black enamel repair kit for that little patch of corrosion on the lip of the outer tub. Bit annoyed with myself, I haven’t been to see the powder coaters yet. CLICK HERE TO GO TO hotpoint95622's LINK |
Post# 476286 , Reply# 129   11/19/2010 at 12:36 (4,921 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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WELL is it
is it is it is it (taps foot imapatiently) is it ready yet is it ready yet is it ready yet is it ready yet is it ready yet is it ready yet (taps foot more imapatiently) is it ready yet is it ready yet is it ready yet is it ready yet .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... |
Post# 476301 , Reply# 130   11/19/2010 at 13:47 (4,921 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 476306 , Reply# 131   11/19/2010 at 14:09 (4,921 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 476449 , Reply# 132   11/20/2010 at 10:15 (4,920 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Well it’s water tight, but that’s all.
As Mike pointed out “If the pot size is reduced will you have enough play in the pressure stat??” Simple answer is NO. It was that bit of a chance I would getaway with a small adjustment but alas not to be, not enough in the switch adjustments, so it’s back to the drawing board. Also went around to the powder coaters this morning, but are closed on Saturdays. The enamel repair kit has also arrived this morning but I want to sort out the pressure pot first. |
Post# 476457 , Reply# 133   11/20/2010 at 11:01 (4,920 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 476470 , Reply# 134   11/20/2010 at 12:32 (4,920 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Lee
Whats happening is the water level too low or high? The pressure switch has a huge amount of adjustment, you only have to turn the one screw in the tallest tower See pic on this switch it would be the blue screw this is the one that sets the over all water level, the smaller one inset sets the sensitivity of the switch to the water level dropping when the clothes soak up the water this allows the machine to top up with water Other alternative is get a craft knife and carefully cyt away some of the silicon filler to create a larger vessel Or could you adapt a ...dare i say it a hoover one |
Post# 476472 , Reply# 135   11/20/2010 at 13:22 (4,920 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 476473 , Reply# 136   11/20/2010 at 13:24 (4,920 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 476474 , Reply# 137   11/20/2010 at 13:27 (4,920 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 476476 , Reply# 138   11/20/2010 at 13:37 (4,920 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Hi, Gary
The unit did nothing, the old girl just kept on filling, no leaks though which is something, I have tried to adjust the switch but to avail. I have spent hour’s searching the net for a replacement but just can’t find one or anything suitable to adapt, if round two doesn’t work. I think this just might do it though. |
Post# 476478 , Reply# 139   11/20/2010 at 13:46 (4,920 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Hello Lee
that sounds a better idea...........if that doesnt work my last attempt would be to seal it back together (i didnt know it came apart) clean the outside with white spirit, paint a thin layer of silicon over the outside let it set and do that again a few times so as to create an air tight outer casing rather than a inner casing. You could even try wrapping some surgical dressing on each layer to give it more strength anyway we shall see |
Post# 476604 , Reply# 140   11/21/2010 at 08:02 (4,919 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 476605 , Reply# 141   11/21/2010 at 08:05 (4,919 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 476606 , Reply# 142   11/21/2010 at 08:12 (4,919 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 476607 , Reply# 143   11/21/2010 at 08:16 (4,919 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 476624 , Reply# 144   11/21/2010 at 10:18 (4,919 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 476651 , Reply# 145   11/21/2010 at 12:38 (4,919 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 476852 , Reply# 146   11/22/2010 at 02:44 (4,919 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Post# 476916 , Reply# 147   11/22/2010 at 11:23 (4,918 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Thank you gentleman,
Next it’s on to the cosmetics, the mechanics are all done except changing the door seal which can be done at the end. Just had a though, of fitting some LED’s to the old door seal at to top looking down into the drum for some video lighting, just a temporary modification, running them from a battery pack. |
Post# 476934 , Reply# 148   11/22/2010 at 13:10 (4,918 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 477458 , Reply# 149   11/25/2010 at 11:26 (4,915 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Post# 477466 , Reply# 150   11/25/2010 at 12:05 (4,915 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Paul.
May I ask if you have the timer charts with the diagrams, I would like to know if the pressure switch is a 2 level one, I think I have messed up the setting when messing with the pressure switch, she never took the softener in the last load washed, I think the machine should fill with cold water to level one and then energize the softener valve up to level two, I was hoping you could confirm this from the service papers you have. Many thanks Lee |
Post# 477476 , Reply# 152   11/25/2010 at 13:14 (4,915 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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pecker switch... |
Post# 477477 , Reply# 153   11/25/2010 at 13:15 (4,915 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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bit of crouzet timer info for the 1851 which probably applies to the 1851/03 - do know whether its of use... |
Post# 477478 , Reply# 154   11/25/2010 at 13:16 (4,915 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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wiring diagram for the 1851... |
Post# 477479 , Reply# 155   11/25/2010 at 13:17 (4,915 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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think this is what you are after. states for model 1851, but applies to 1851/03 too (I think)... |
Post# 477480 , Reply# 156   11/25/2010 at 13:18 (4,915 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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...uploaded the wrong way, in case it uploads a bit bigger... |
Post# 477481 , Reply# 157   11/25/2010 at 13:18 (4,915 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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Specific info for the 1851/03... |
Post# 477482 , Reply# 158   11/25/2010 at 13:19 (4,915 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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a bit more... |
Post# 477483 , Reply# 159   11/25/2010 at 13:20 (4,915 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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the spare parts listing for the different parts for the 1851/03 over the 1851... |
Post# 477484 , Reply# 160   11/25/2010 at 13:21 (4,915 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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wiring diagram for the 1851/03... |
Post# 477485 , Reply# 161   11/25/2010 at 13:22 (4,915 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)   |   | |
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hope the info helps Lee. Anything else needed then let me know and I will try and find it. Cheers Paul |
Post# 477491 , Reply# 162   11/25/2010 at 13:46 (4,915 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Absolutely fantastic, thank you very much Paul, you are so lucky to have this information and I would give my hind teeth for it.
It’s all there in the last diagram, yes it’s a two step pressure switch and as I thought she should fill to level one with cold, then to level two with the softener, also the two step pressure switch has been used as a dry protection for the heater which I cant see on the other charts. I also notice that the dispenser should have a switch like the 1828 so I think the nib on the draw front has snapped off and the switch has been removed to rectify the problem, maybe some thing to consider on the re-build. Thermostat has a 40c 60c and 85c so that means 95c for program 1 is achieved with timed heating after the thermostat has closed. Ever indebted. Lee |
Post# 477508 , Reply# 163   11/25/2010 at 15:45 (4,915 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Nice electrical diagrams.
But I can't find the circuit that opens the bomb bay doors. LOL. PS-Nice machine, I think. All that rust does make me appreciate the classic Miele construction - where all the steel is thickly finished enameled inside and out - white. My Maytag Neptune front loader suffers greatly in comparison, what with it being only powder coated, and not coated enough on the underside of the top panel, and the edges of the top mounted detergent dispenser orifice getting significant rusting, just like in your photos of the Hotpoint. |
Post# 477669 , Reply# 164   11/26/2010 at 13:08 (4,914 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 477673 , Reply# 165   11/26/2010 at 13:20 (4,914 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 477681 , Reply# 166   11/26/2010 at 13:33 (4,914 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 477682 , Reply# 167   11/26/2010 at 13:35 (4,914 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 477685 , Reply# 168   11/26/2010 at 13:41 (4,914 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 477686 , Reply# 169   11/26/2010 at 13:45 (4,914 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Aww Sash windows dont yah love em, sticky in the summer rattly and efffin draughty in the winter.......big heavy curtains to keep the draughts out........i remember those days well, oh and a big curtain behind the front door coz that was shagged and the letter box blew open in the wind ;-) we never bothered switching our fridge on the because the kitchen was so cold
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Post# 477691 , Reply# 170   11/26/2010 at 14:02 (4,914 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Yes, I’m being nagged agene, I’m in my shirt sleeves which are rolled up, aren’t you cold says the committee “no, but if you are just put another log on the fire or work outside all day then it would feel warm in here to you lot too, bloody indoors to much.
Just been asked to clear the snow off the drive, what planet are they on. |
Post# 477694 , Reply# 171   11/26/2010 at 14:08 (4,914 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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well i would agree to go outside.........Too the Garage and seek refuge with your only freinds in there :-).........arghhh peace and harmony return
Dont talk to me about working outside all day, thursday i was frozen right through, i got home quick cup of tea electric blanket on and in bed.......... We have this weather all weekend.......im hiding in the office as much as i can sod the punters they can carry there own shite (unless it has hte "H" word on it) |
Post# 478012 , Reply# 172   11/28/2010 at 08:58 (4,912 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Sunday morning, I ventured out to the garage but only lasted 20 minutes, it’s to bloody cold, my weather stations monitor says it got down to -11c last night and as I type it is only -2c at noon
So I have spent the time I was out there looking at the speed module on the old girl, the diagrams supplied by Paul fascinated me, it’s a bit different to most I have come across in the past, the module is in two parts. Boring ramblings over. Red and black spade connections just right from the big black axel capacitor are for the thermistor You can just see the connections to the MPC bottomed right The main module which is located behind the options switches and has the connections to the timer for speed selection and the tacho for speed feed back. And the power micro circuit board located next to the mains suppressor. It’s this smaller part that got my attention. It’s connected to the main module and the motor. The power micro circuit holds the solid state switch (thyristor or SCR “silicon controlled rectifier”) which controls the voltage to the motor, this also indicated the motor runs on DC voltage and may explain the different sound the motor makes. In all other speed modules I have looked at this part is on the main board fixed to the large heat sink (the part you don’t want to touch when the machine is switched on and normal has warnings all over it, because it will bite!!) and is normally a triac which switches AC current instead, but in this setup the solid state switch which must be of an isolated type as it is fixed to the back of the metal back plate to which the option switches ect are fixed to, so this plate must acted as the heat sink. I have also noticed that the motor dose not seem to have a thermal cut-out for over heating protection fitted inline with the live feed, instead it has a thermistor (a resistor which changes according to temperature) fitted and this is connected to the main module separately, I can only surmise that if the motor get too hot the resistance changes with temperature and triggers some sort of protection circuit within the module. |
Post# 478015 , Reply# 173   11/28/2010 at 09:25 (4,912 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 478088 , Reply# 174   11/28/2010 at 12:56 (4,912 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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The reason is your PC has seen a high qaulity circuit board that is built using components that are operating well within their safe operating ranges, not like modern designs where all the components are running as close as is possible to their safe maximum operating limits, with resulting high failure rate that modern made circuits have.
Witness the high failure rate on modern machines boards Twas effin freezing at work today (again) no washers came in to mention but a beuooootiful very very old Hotpoint electric kettle turned up with mains lead, the heating element is built into the bottom of it so it not visible (bit like modern ones) i know it is off topic sorry I will try it out tomorrow (usual just fill it up and plug it in) see what happens approach ;-) |
Post# 478102 , Reply# 175   11/28/2010 at 14:13 (4,912 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Post# 478263 , Reply# 177   11/29/2010 at 07:55 (4,911 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 478264 , Reply# 178   11/29/2010 at 08:00 (4,911 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Well Lee
I have lived to tell the tale ;-) filled it up plugged it in and it works,nice and quiet in operation like most of the old metal kettles, bit wiffy though, old kettles often are, i think it is the years of sweaty hands gripping the handles, when they get warm they let off this slighty acrid smell. I shall clean it up inside and out and get rid of the wiff, i noramlly soak the handle in washing powder |
Post# 478265 , Reply# 179   11/29/2010 at 08:01 (4,911 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 478266 , Reply# 180   11/29/2010 at 08:02 (4,911 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 478267 , Reply# 181   11/29/2010 at 08:03 (4,911 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 478268 , Reply# 182   11/29/2010 at 08:06 (4,911 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Post# 478273 , Reply# 183   11/29/2010 at 08:41 (4,911 days old) by vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield, East Midlands, UK)   |   | |
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Gary
bet hubby would be DELIGHTED to use the Hotpoint as daily driver, non of that pesky switching off when boiled LOLOLOL Whilst I think the Russell Hobbs is a classic (and watch what they go for on ebay!) I have to take issue with you on the reliabality - yours is an earlier model than the one I bought in 1977 when I left home - lasted until 1981 grrrrrrrr. Still, would love another one even just for display. I believe Simon has teh original 1950s version Al |
Post# 478274 , Reply# 184   11/29/2010 at 09:11 (4,911 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Hello AL
Before this one we had a Siemens porsche desgned one, and for a modern kettle that lasted well (5 yrs), but when it died i was straight up in the loft pulling out another Russell Hobbs a few words back and forth later it was cleaned and installed ;-), it is the same as this one except it is the stainless steel one. If you want that one you are welcome to it (i have collected a few over the years) it works perfectly I like old electric kettles, i always nab em at work if they come in i have a few others I also picked up a 1980s i think, russell hobbs KB series beige body with flowers on it and brown handle one just for posterity i have no passion for the decorated kettles but it is in good condition Gary |
Post# 478305 , Reply# 185   11/29/2010 at 11:50 (4,911 days old) by vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield, East Midlands, UK)   |   | |
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Funny enough I have just started using Siemens Porsche kettle and toaster myself - bought just after last Christmas - I LOVE John Lewis clearence sale :) And I would love a RH as well thank you very much and if you would have a Swan whistling kettle too ..... Well if you dont ask you dont get LOLOLOLOL
Al |
Post# 478317 , Reply# 186   11/29/2010 at 12:39 (4,911 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Hello Al
thats fine matey send me an email, they are nice the siemens range, the coffee machine is pretty mega too, but when you look at the cost they should last , i know that some of the cost is down to design and styling, trouble is there are so many cheap lookalikes ;-(...........ah well enjoy them. I have a swan electric kettle no whistle though, that is very old aswell, no lid fill through the spout, non auto, weighs a ton again super quiet |
Post# 478333 , Reply# 187   11/29/2010 at 13:14 (4,911 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Thanks Gary for posting the photos of the Hotpoint kettle, so much better the old stuff, it’s made to last almost a life time and can be repaired with some careful modification of other parts, compared to today’s offerings made of plastic and poor quality electronics, I think that modern electronics are programmed to self-destruct after the warranty has expired or as you have noted earlier it’s working at it’s maximum operating parameter and just cant take it.
It’s a great sham we now live in a through away society. Well I have nothing to say about the liberator at the moment, just waiting for some better weather, so I can sort the pressure switch which I have totally messed up and it’s to cold to paint anything. |
Post# 478340 , Reply# 188   11/29/2010 at 13:56 (4,911 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Hello LEE
Glad you like the kettle, i am always attracted to these old ones, and to date every one i have brought back has worked with no leaks and hasnt killed me. Now you have the wiring diagrams the pressure switches will be a lot easier to set up, normally F1 (fill 1) is the low level and F2 is the high level, if you get a meter and blow in the pipe you will be able to see which set of contacts relate to the first click (low level) and blow a bit harder for the second click (high level), i used to try and do this sort of thing blind, it took me ages..........basically which ever screw is turned in the most will be the higher level of the two. see it is easy innit :-) |
Post# 478345 , Reply# 189   11/29/2010 at 14:14 (4,911 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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I have collected some Russell Hobbs bit’s from the late 70’s with the poppy design on, I have an automatic coffee pot, milk warmer and two toasters, one which pops the toast like butterfly wings out of the sides which has ceramic side tiles and the other one is like a normal pop up with enamel sides. The toasters cook the best toast ever, very even toasting all over
Back to the pressure switch. Me thinks I have knackered it by messing around too much, the level one switch dose not click as it should, maybe I have turned the adjuster screw too far in and the hysteresis adjusters are in too far as well, the dam screws have been gulped up with glue and don’t turn very well. Something to play with when the nagging starts agene and solitude is craved. |
Post# 478352 , Reply# 190   11/29/2010 at 14:51 (4,911 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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they made some good gear over the years, the side toasters are brilliant, i had a 1930s one that only did one side at a time, when you dropped the sides the bread slid down and turned itself so that when you closed them it was on the other side.
Just turn the screws out, if you look carefully you might be able to see the marks left by the glue, the sensitivity screw might be a luttle more time consuing to set as you need a dry load (or a well spun wet load) each time to check out their operation, if it is stuffed i have loads of dual level pressure switches, so you can have one of them to play with ;-) Ps if the screws are very stiff, i heated up a flat bladed screw driver and pushed it into the screw, hey presto it turned without the screw driver blade slipping, a bt of wiggle and it came out same with the other screw. |
Post# 478500 , Reply# 191   11/30/2010 at 12:32 (4,910 days old) by hotpoint95622 (Powys)   |   | |
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Thanks Gary, great tip, heating flat bladed screw driver.
How I have set the sensitivity settings in the past is to hose up the machine and then let it fill, then lower the drain hose to allow some water out and see what level it is when the valves kick in. I’m looking for level 1 to fill just to the lip of the door glass or Perspex in this case and to recall when it’s just below the lip of the door seal at the tub, level 2 maybe an inch or too higher with a recall just at the base of the Perspex. Well it’s up to warmer weather now to try!! |
Post# 478522 , Reply# 192   11/30/2010 at 13:55 (4,910 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Well Lee looking at the forecast (normally a waste of time) i will be going to the garage Friday, 5 day 5 night
Im like a bloody hermit at present dont want to go out, loft is too cold work in as well. dropping the hose and letting a bit of water out is good way of checking the top up function, when ever i have adjusted the screws i nearly always find 1/2 a turn is enough for fine tuning Rusell Hobbs bits Nice matey all in escellent condition aswell, be good for your "bottom draw" :-) |