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Of the many outstanding American cars from the 1950s, one of the most recognizable, by both name and appearance, is the 1953 Buick Skylark. The Skylark was brand-new in 1953; its name was chosen to celebrate Buick's 50th anniversary. This stunning automobile was based on Buick's experimental sports car, the XP-300, which created a huge amount of excitement in 1952. With so many customers wanting to place orders for an XP-300, Buick banked on that interest and built the Skylark.
The 1953 Skylark was one of the most expensive cars in Buick's lineup and today is a bona fide collector's item, with excellent examples bringing more than $100,000. After the 1954 Skylark, of which only 836 were built, some will argue that the 1953 Skylark is the next most collectible Buick. Some say it's the 1970 GSX or the last Grand National GNXs, but those experts we talked to say the 1953 Skylark is the one to collect. So, if you're a diehard Buick aficionado and are willing to spend the money, this is the car for you.
Built only as a convertible and based on the Roadmaster drivetrain, these were the cars of the stars; Milton Berle, Bob Hope and Jackie Gleason were some of the better-known celebrities that drove them. The Skylark's exclusive nature was such that Buick engraved the original owner's name in silver on the tripartite medallion in the horn button.
With only 1,690 built, searching for one will certainly take some time. As one would expect for such limited-production cars, they're not cheap, and restoration costs can easily exceed six figures. In 2006, a '53 Skylark was sold for $383,400, yet the world-record price for one is $495,000; that car was sold during RM Auction's sale of the McMullen Collection. However, these were both concours-restored cars of the highest quality, so take heart--one in #3 condition (if you can find it) should be in the mid-five-figure bracket, depending on how much work it needs and how many of its original parts are missing.
ENGINES
The sole engine for the Skylark was an all-new "Fireball" 322-cu.in. V-8 with 188 horsepower. With a bore and stroke of 4.0 x 3.2 inches, these were well-built engines that featured specially designed dome-shaped cylinder heads. Those cylinder heads were engineered to concentrate the fuel charge at the precise point where its explosive force would most effectively push the piston down its bore. Each piston was custom-fitted to its cylinder, which ensured longer life and quieter operation. Internally, the crankshaft featured cam-ground balancing of the counterweights.
The T-Type intake manifold was another unique feature; it distributed fuel to each cylinder more evenly than the conventional Y-Type arrangement. There were two different brands of carburetors used: a Stromberg 4AUV-267, or a Carter WCFB-996S. Both are four-barrels. New for 1953, too, was the use of the new 12-volt electrical system.
TRANSMISSION
The only transmission used in the Skylark was a Twin Turbine Dynaflow, which was an updated version of the original, introduced in 1948. The Twin Turbine debuted in 1953 and used a four-element torque converter featuring two turbines interconnected through a planetary gear set. This setup gave a more positive connection between the engine and the driveshaft.
According to the 1953-'54 Skylark Club, maintenance costs for these cars are lower because the oil cushioning of the transmission minimizes strain on the engine, driveshaft and differential. Rebuild kits are readily available, and there are many transmission specialists still around who are able to repair them if needed; however, these are very durable and reliable gearboxes that rarely need any major repairs.
SUSPENSION
With coil springs at all four corners and hydraulic lever-arm-type shock absorbers, the suspension rarely gives any problems. The front suspension is a robust independent design that incorporates an anti-roll bar to reduce body lean. The rear axle is incredibly stout, with many units lasting for several hundred thousand miles without giving any troubles. Complete rebuilt kits, including all tie rods, king pins, bushings and bearings, are readily available and quite affordable, and the hydraulic lever shocks can be rebuilt if needed.
The worm-and-nut steering box rarely requires any repair; power assist was standard. As was the case with many cars of this era, the turning circle is huge at 42 feet, so don't expect it to steer anywhere near as precisely as a modern car.
CHASSIS
Just like its GM siblings, the Skylark used a full-perimeter frame, the same frame that the Roadmaster used. It has deep-silled girders and an X-brace across the middle, which gives the big Buick staunch resistance to twist. The section aft of the rear axle does rust on both sides, so inspect this area closely. With a wheelbase of 121.5 inches, it provides a pleasant ride quality.
The chrome wheels measured 15 x 6.5 inches, had 40 spokes and used a five-bolt lug pattern. Several shops can rebuild them if required, and if you need tires, the size to look for is an 8.00 x 15 four-ply tube type. Used wheels are easily found at swap meets or via the classifieds in the Buick Club of America's magazine; our search turned up a decent set with a $1,400 price tag.
The original low-restriction exhaust system incorporated a resonance-chamber muffler for a quiet sound. Reproductions are now available from a variety of sources. The entire system is suspended by rubber-fabric hangers to eliminate vibrations.
BRAKES
Power drum brakes were standard, and were painted with a high-temperature heat-resistant paint in either red or white, to match the color that was used on the inner fender wells. Measuring 12 inches in diameter, each has a total lining area of 219 square inches; that size provides good braking performance and a reassuring feel.
Reproduction drums and new brake linings, as well as new wheel cylinders and all associated hardware, are available from many different sources.
INTERIOR
The cockpit of a 1953 Skylark is quite inviting. In addition to sumptuous leather seats, carpets and door panels, power windows were standard. The leather seats were soft-tanned cowhide, and were available in four colors. An interesting feature was that when the front seatback was tilted to gain access to the rear compartment, the front bench seat moved forward automatically.
The entire lower section of the dashboard is a veneer called Dynoc; replacement veneer is available for $160. If the original Selectronic radio is still in the car, it should have a power aerial, which is activated by the driver's foot.
Replacement carpet sets, headliners and upholstery kits can be found in all the original colors. The dual heating system works well, but the blower motor under the driver's seat is the troublesome one of the two; access to it is easy once the seat is unbolted.
The convertible top, seat and power windows are all hydraulically operated and are usually trouble-free once the old relays have been replaced, presuming that the mechanisms are properly maintained. The rearview mirror bracket is specific to the Skylark, which makes finding a replacement, if needed, a difficult proposition.
BODY/FRAME
Even with the convertible top in the up position, the Skylark stood less than five feet tall. The fairly custom body, with its low-positioned roofline and cut-down doors, is made of thick sheetmetal, which makes repairs a bit easier. The lower sections of the front fenders, quarter panels and even the doors can rot out, necessitating expensive repairs.
"The convertible-specific frames had an additional quarter-inch piece of steel welded to the top of the X-frame," according to Glenn Tyler, who restored our feature car. "And look closely at the rocker panels in front of the rear wheels; this section seems to hold water and always ends up rusting through."
The body panels were most, if not all, hand-modified Roadmaster panels, Glenn told us. "The windshield was chopped three inches, the front fenders had the wheel wells opened up, and the VentiPorts were shaved. All Skylark convertible tubs were finished with various amounts of lead filler, so it's not unusual to find great amounts of lead just behind the doors, near the bottom of the window line.
"The doors were sectioned in Flint and then re-welded to create the low, sweeping bodyline. This also meant that all the side glass was special to the Skylark." Glenn added that finding glass is not a problem, but the window operators and frames were special.
The side molding, called a "sweepspear," is made from heavy, flat stainless steel and can be a little expensive to repair if it's dented. The Skylark badges also are specific to this car, so make sure they're intact on the car you want to buy--finding replacements will cost you plenty.
"Some 1953 Skylarks have continental kits; however, they were never a factory option," said Vin De Peppo, the treasurer of the 1953-'54 Skylark Club. Vin has one on his '53 Skylark, but it was a dealer-installed option. "Many companies produced aftermarket continental kits, so finding one if you desire shouldn't be a difficult task.
RESTORATION PARTS
As one might imagine, restoration parts for a car of which just 1,690 were built are quite hard to come by. Engine and other mechanical parts are readily available, but Skylark-specific parts are nearly impossible to find. One hard-to-find item, the special Skylark badges, are being reproduced, Glenn said.
Dayton Wire Wheels and Motorspot, Inc., have restoration services for the wire wheels and Wheel Vintiques in Fresno, California, sells reproduction Skylark wheels.
Specialists
Bill Stitt
724-668-7070
Reproduction side emblems, wheel spinners, plastic horn emblems, brass nameplates, correct Buick green engine paint
Tom Payette
502-727-9945
Reproduction power steering pump decals
Gus Miller
330-832-2284
Reproduction dashboard veneer; other NOS parts
Glenn Cecchine
908-369-3666
NOS and used body, trim and mechanical parts
GM Obsolete
602-253-8081
www.gmobsolete.com
New, used and reproduction parts; original radios, mechanical parts and weatherstripping
Kanter Auto Products
800-526-1096
www.kanter.com
Engine rebuilding kits; brake and suspension rebuild kits; replacement shocks; reproduction exhaust systems; new electrical parts
Steele Rubber Products
800-447-0849
Reproduction weather seals
Hampton Coach
888-588-8726
www.hamptoncoach.com
Reproduction upholstery kits
Cars, Inc.
908-369-3666
www.oldbuickparts.com
NOS, used and reproduction parts
Apple Hydraulics
800-882-7753
www.applehydraulics.com
Reconditioned brakes and lever shocks
Production
1953 Buick Skylark 1,690
PARTS PRICES
Brake line, rear $17
Coil springs, pair $205
Dash veneer $160
Dynaflow rebuild kit $200
Fan belt, reproduction $27
Fan belt, NOS $35
Floor mats, reproduction $75
Front end rebuild kit $390
Lens, backup lamp, reproduction $15
Pitman arm, NOS $30
Pistons, new, each $37
Shock absorbers, four $150
Side emblems, pair $190
Spark plug wires, reproduction $50
Tune-up kit $40
Transmission mount, front $40
Wheels, used, set $1,400
WHAT TO PAY
Low: $30,000
Average: $65,000
High: $130,000
CLUB SCENE
The Buick Club of America
P.O. Box 360775
Columbus, Ohio 43236-0775
Dues: $35/year; Membership: 9,000
www.buickclub.org
1953-'54 Skylark Club
51 Statesville Quarry Road
Lafayette, New Jersey 07848
www.skylarkclub.org
Dues: $20/year; Membership: 200
Owner's View
"I bought this car because it is very rare and not many are left. I always wanted one, so I took the plunge. I love the looks and style of this one-of-a-kind Skylark, and I plan on keeping it, enjoying it and driving it.
"I bought the car restored so I could start enjoying it right away; I drive it about 1,500 miles per year, just to car shows in the summer months. This is truly a great car, a real head-turner."
-- Tony Vespoli
Recent
Photo: Bryan McTaggart
Sometimes, it is up to you to fix what the manufacturer failed to get right. Remember when bright colors, big-blocks, cartoon characters and tire-melting power was the normal for Chrysler? In 1970, you could go to your local Dodge dealership, order a Hemi-powered Charger painted in any number of blindingly bright hues, row your four-speed with a Pistol Grip shifter, and you could even option it out to be a luxurious experience with the SE trim package. By 1975, those days were over. The Charger was still around, but it looked nothing like the lithe, lean machine of five years ago and forget ordering a four-speed altogether because it wasn’t on the menu. If you want that third pedal, you must install it yourself.
Why Didn't Dodge Offer A Manual Transmission?
1978 Dodge Monaco A38 tribute
Photo: Hemmings Archives
Sure, the police vehicles still had teeth, but the muscular B-body offerings that Mopar had been known for were pretty much gone. Instead, the company had chased the Chevrolet Monte Carlo into personal luxury territory and the audience knew it. You could still order a watered-down 360 or even the 400-cu.in. big block, but you were pretty much stuck with the 727 TorqueFlight automatic transmission. Would you like your PRNDL on the column or on the floor, sir? It didn’t matter if you were looking at a Charger, a Road Runner, a Coronet or a Fury... the likelihood that you’ll find one with three pedals is about the same as finding a unicorn munching on the grass in your backyard. While production numbers aren’t easy to find, after 1974 a four-on-the-floor ceased to exist. If you wanted to shift for yourself in a 1975-1979 B-body Mopar, you were stuck with the A230 three-speed…on the column. Suffice it to say that there were few takers for a Slant-Six or 318-powered stripper Plymouth Fury, Dodge Coronet or Monaco.
This 1976 Dodge Charger Daytona is typical of what you would normally find: its asthmatic 360 small-block was mated to an A727 TorqueFlite three-speed automatic transmission. Solid, stable, bulletproof… and boring. As the owner of the Charger, I’ll admit that there was no real reason to even perform this swap aside from my usual reason of "because I can". The Charger’s long 2.41 rear gears made for excellent Interstate driving and returned surprisingly decent fuel economy in return. Why mess with what works?
Why Swap A Manual Transmission Into A Car That Never Came With One?
This 1987 Dodge Diplomat was a cop car from Austin that had been built into a stout performer. It featured a warmed-up 360 and an A-833 overdrive four-speed manual transmission.
Photo: Bryan McTaggart
To understand why I would take a 67,000-mile survivor and go straight under the knife with it, you need to know of another manual-swapped Mopar from my past: a 1987 Dodge Diplomat. Converted by Steve Knickerbocker, this AHB (police package) Dodge packed a warmed-up 360 and an A833 four-speed, a combination that Chrysler only put into maybe a couple hundred M-bodies prior to 1980, and without question not after 1983 in any market. I bought the car from him in 2005, had it painted Midnight Blue Metallic, threw on chrome wheels, and proceeded to drive it as if I had bought a stock car. Having owned seven other FMJ-body Chryslers throughout the years, the Diplomat was an absolute stormer by comparison. But it wasn’t so much that it had power…it was that I had control of that power with the four-speed that made the difference. I wasn't held to the lazy shifting patterns of 1970s Chrysler transmission engineers, and I had an overdrive gear to use.
The author's Charger, parked next to Matt Graves' 1983 LSX/six-speed Cadillac Coupe de Ville.
Photo: Matt Graves
Then there is a friend of mine: Matt Graves from American Powertrain. Matt is the owner of the “Chicken Coupe”, a 1983 Cadillac Coupe de Ville that is packing a 427-cu.in. LS mill, enough suspension tweaks to allow the big Caddy to keep up with a Corvette in the corners, 14-inch Baer brakes, and a six-speed. And it retains the plush velour interior that the original buyer was sold on. Call it Pro Luxury. It works better than it has any right to. It is hard to say that you own a Dodge Charger with positivity in your voice when a brougham-tastic 1980s Cadillac can stomp it into the dirt at a moment's notice.
At the end of 2023, having rid myself of the last manual-transmission car I owned (an absolute money pit of a Chevrolet Cruze) years prior, I decided that the Charger had to have a manual transmission. It didn’t matter if the car had 170-ish horsepower on tap from a smogger small-block… I can build the engine later. Having a third pedal became a priority. There is just one problem: this is a platform with about zero aftermarket support. How well would this work out?
Plan Out Your Transmission Swap Before You Begin
Before any transmission can be swapped in, the A727 TorqueFlite automatic transmission has to be removed. Overall, the automatic is in great condition. It just needs to be re-sealed anywhere a seal exists.
Photo: Bryan McTaggart
Before I was going to Sawzall a hole in the floor of my car, research had to be done. I wanted to know how difficult this swap would prove to be. I wanted to keep any kind of fabrication to a minimum, I wanted to keep the cutting to a minimum, and I wanted to keep the appearance of a “theoretically possible” look… In the end, I want the interior to look factory-possible instead of backyard butchery. I also wanted to have a minimum of five forward gears for the sake of Interstate drivability, regardless of what is going on in the engine bay. Your car can sound as mean as all get-out, but there are few things more irritating than getting passed by a Kia Soul doing 85 MPH while you are stuck in the slow lane, turning 3,000 RPM and barely doing 65 MPH.
Before anything got cut, numerous test-fits were made and patterns were marked using a nearly-dead shoe polish marker. The square is the hole for the shifter, the dot above marking the end of the tailshaft.
Photo: Bryan McTaggart
I leapt into this project with a lot of assumptions. I assumed that the 1975 re-skin of the B-body lineup was more-or-less a visual change and not a complete re-engineering of the 1971-1974 B-body platform. This opened the option of some parts from the more muscular Mopar nameplates, like Charger, Road Runner, GTX and Super Bee. Additional research suggested that the firewall of the B-body was shared with the E-body twins, the Dodge Challenger and Plymouth Barracuda. This project looked very plausible on paper.
A Malwood USA hydraulic clutch pedal and a manual transmission/brake pedal for an E-body (Challenger/'Cuda) compose the pedal assembly for the Charger. The pedals were fit prior to removing the interior, as we wanted to ensure that they would actually work before we began cutting holes into the car.
Photo: Bryan McTaggart
After some discussions with Graves, I made two purchases prior to any transmission purchase: a floor-shift column from a dearly departed 1979 Chrysler 300 and a set of 1971-1974 E-body manual transmission pedals. While I restored the column, I had the pedals shipped directly to Graves to see if they would play nicely with a hydraulic throwout bearing. By early December, I had a box filled with pedal parts and a Malwood USA Under Dash Hydraulics system dropped off on my porch. This was my cue, and for Christmas, I bought myself a TREMEC TKX with a 2.87 first gear and a .68 fifth gear.
Taking Proper Measurements For Your New Transmission Before Cutting
Once we figured out where the shifter would be located, we drilled two holes for the "forward" and "rearward" shifter mounts underneath the car. With some measuring, we drew our cutting pattern in the interior and cut the floor out. Other than some minor clearance grinding on the sides, we were pretty spot-on.
Photo: Bryan McTaggart
In addition to the transmission that I had bought, American Powertrain sent other parts to see how plausible a 1975-1979 B-body manual transmission swap could be. Within a few days’ time, the pedals were installed, a process that only requires the lower HVAC vent tube and the front seat to be removed… both in the name of making space for you to work in.
My next task was to prepare the new floor-shift column for the Charger. To make a long story at least a bit shorter, here is what I did: I swapped the wiring, steering shaft, and ignition key cylinders from the original column to the new one, painted the outer body, and installed the Tuff Wheel adapter and wheel that I recently had restored by Craft Covers.
Here, we mocked up where the shifter would be for the two main shifter locations offered by the TKX. As you can see, the forward location was immediately ruled out due to interference between the Pistol Grip shift handle (and my hand) against the lower dash and the radio.
Photo: Bryan McTaggart
To properly begin the transmission fitment process, the carpet and the sound deadening that will be in the way of a shifter hole needs to be removed. Aside from presenting an opportunity to clean nearly fifty years’ worth of detritus from the carpet, it also brought to light the 99.5% complete broadcast sheet for the Charger. Having removed that little note of history, the Charger was placed upon 3-ton jack stands and ramps and the A727 TorqueFlite was removed from the car.
Numerous test-fits were performed to make sure that we had the optimal location for the shifter hole for our TKX before we broke out our grinder and started cutting. In the end, we cut a 12 x 4-inch hole in the floor that, while a bit oversized for the final product, allowed just enough room to very work from above and below. In addition, a section of a floor brace that was both in the way of the shifter and redundant due to the transmission crossmember was cut away as well. Once trimming was complete, a test-fit of the transmission with the bellhousing attached showed that while tight, the entire assembly would fit. With that, the new flywheel, pilot bearing, and clutch were installed, and it was time to bolt everything together for the last time.
1976 Charger TKX Installation Details
Photo: Bryan McTaggart
<p>In addition to the floor sheetmetal, this section of floor brace had to be trimmed out of the way. Removing this section isn't a concern: the transmission crossmember is directly underneath this brace and is the main structural component. </p>
The Cost Of Swapping A TREMEC TKX
Photo: Bryan McTaggart
Putting a dollar figure to this build is going to be difficult. Part of this deal is an exchange with American Powertrain – for the help prototyping a potential new platform for them and provide post-installation advertising options, they supported this swap with parts. The other thing to consider is the “handshake deals” that were worked out between friends and contacts. Being up-front, I am not going to fully disclose every cost I paid, nor will I highlight everything that I did not pay money for. But for the sake of transparency, here is an idea of what you would expect to spend to get this project started.
- TREMEC TKX (Ford-style, 2.87 first, .68 fifth), from American Powertrain: $2,250
- Lakewood LK7000 bellhousing adapter: $358.95
- Lakewood inspection cover #50360: $51.20
- Driveshaft: $409
- SFI Flywheel: $279
- Underdash Hydraulic Clutch Kit, with reservoir, hydraulic lines, and Malwood Clutch Pedal: $625
- Hurst Pistol Grip shifter for 1971-74 Mopar B/E body #5388575: $348.95
- American Powertrain’s Oil Service Package, which includes break-in oil, Driven Racing Oil STF fluid, and DOT 3 brake fluid for the hydraulic throw-out bearing: $100
- Pilot bearing, SB Mopar to Ford TKO: $63
- American Powertrain “White Lightning” Shifter mechanism for TKX with offset shifter adapters: $339
- Hooker BlackHeart Transmission Crossmember BHS567: $196.95
- Differential Gear Upgrade: about $1,000
Gear Ratio Comparison
In addition to the transmission swap, we chose to upgrade the Chrysler 8.25 rear axle, swapping in a set of 3.73 rear gears and a limited-slip differential. Big thanks to Ron's Machining Service and Seth at Rears and Gears for their help with the re-gearing project.
Photo: Bryan McTaggart
STOCK: Chrysler A727 TorqueFlite
1st/2.54....2nd/1.54....3rd/1:1....Reverse/2.21....Rear Axle Ratio/2.41
MODIFIED: TREMEC TKX (Ford-style)
1st/2.87....2nd/1.89....3rd/1.28....4th/1:1....5th/0.68....Reverse/2.56....Rear Axle Ratio/3.73
Note: TREMEC TKX is offered in both Ford and GM-style bellhousing bolt patterns and is offered with close and wide ratios, with numerous gear ratio options. First gear can be as low as 3.27 or as high as 2.87 and overdrive can be as low as 0.81 or as high as 0.68. There are also two Reverse ratios: 3.00 and 2.56.
Sources
American Powertrain
931-646-4836
www.americanpowertrain.com
Mark Muffler Shop
270-781-6722
www.markmufflershop.com
Ron's Machining Service
800-694-3098
www.ronsmachiningservice.net
Rears and Gears
423-963-2671
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Patina is huge these days, and for good reason. While the weathered “survivor” look is not for everyone, it absolutely has its benefits. When you put down $10K or more to paint a car, you tend to not drive it as much because getting that first scratch is terrible. It is just easier to enjoy a car that already has some scrapes and dings, especially if it isn’t a particularly rare model. The interior, however is one of those places where patina is usually accompanied with a musty smell of Grandma’s cellar. An original interior that is faded but intact can be cool, but that often quickly gives way to just looking gross. Such was the case of our 1973 Volkswagen Beetle project. When we got it eight years ago, the interior was at a "decent survivor" level, but after sitting another eight years, the interior was beyond our level of salvageable.
Photo: Jefferson Bryant
<p>The door cards were not terribly warped, but the vinyl was peeling and dingy. We could have saved all but the passenger door card, which was water damaged from the window regulator failing. The carpets were threadbare and had long lost their desired to stay in place on the floor. Besides the condition, everything was black, and that just added to the sadness. Bugs are supposed to be happy little cars, not sad, so we placed a call to TMI Products to get some fresh threads for the Bug’s insides. Our custom order included front and rear seat covers, door panels, carpet, headliner, and visors. TMI allows you to order any material they offer, so we were able to order an interior that matches the planned paint scheme, which is a two-tone seafoam turquoise on cream white. This was carried throughout the upholstery, with a sweet houndstooth on the turquoise fabric, which is on the center centers and the door inserts. </p>
Photo: Jefferson Bryant
<p>The door panels are relatively easy to install. The treated fiberboard door cards fit most Beetle models, you just match up the holes you need and pop the perforated sections out. We reused the original metal clips that hold panels to the doors and interior quarter panels. The carpet is the real job here. Unlike most cars, Beetle carpets are not a press-molded one- or two-piece affair, instead they are a cut and sewn jig saw puzzle that is glued to the floor. This means that you need a few special tools, specifically a paint gun, some upholstery cement, and a roller.</p>
Photo: Jefferson Bryant
<p><strong></strong>Preparation for the carpet install is critical for a VW. If the floor is not spotless, the carpet will not stick in that area, eventually leading to it coming up. Vacuuming the entire floor and then wiping it down with brake cleaner, thinner, or some other solvent is a very good idea. Installation of this type of carpet can be a little daunting, but it is not that hard, you just need some patience and planning. Some of the sections don’t quite overlap, instead they butt together, so pre-installing each section can making notes is a good idea, even if you have done it before. </p>
Photo: Jefferson Bryant
<p>The glue used to secure the carpet is important to good installation. You may be tempted to use something like 3M General Adhesive from a spray can, but that is a mistake. While it will work for a while, this spray glue is not strong enough to hold heavy carpet to a floor, especially in summer heat. Instead, you need professional upholstery cement. We used WeldWood Landau Top and Trim contact adhesive, which can be found online in sizes as small as one gallon. You can also buy it from your local upholstery shop. Most shops will sell you some without having to buy a big pail. Our carpet took 2.5 gun cups to complete the carpet installation. That is about is about 80-ish ounces of glue. We used a typical siphon-feed spray gun for glue. Don’t ruin your gravity feed gun by putting glue in it. Pick up a cheap siphon feed from a bargain tool store. The glue is hard to clean, and you will only use that gun for glue from that point on.</p>
Photo: Jefferson Bryant
<p>The glue-up is a two-step process. We use a large piece of cardboard on the ground to keep dust away from the carpet and to keep the glue off the floor. The back side of the carpet is sprayed up the edge, and the floor is sprayed as well. Then you let the glue tack up for a couple of minutes before setting the carpet in place. You don’t want to spray all of the carpet and the whole floor at once; instead, do one section at a time. Where you need to spray onto the new carpet or any surface you want to protect, a piece of cardboard makes for an excellent edging tool. Once the two layers of glue touch, it is pretty much down. You can reposition it a little, but you may have to spray more glue down if everything peels up.</p>
Photo: Jefferson Bryant
<p>We worked from front to back, installing the kickpanels, then the firewall, front main floor, rear floor, then the sills. Take pictures of your carpet before you start, paying attention to each piece and how it lays over, under, or butts to the next section. After you lay down a section, use a rubber flooring roller to press the glue together, ensuring a proper installation.</p>
Photo: Jefferson Bryant
<p>There are few areas that need trimming, such as the sill heater vents and the seat sliders, which on Beetles is weirdly part of the floor and not the seat. We were missing a few pieces of plastic trim, which we will replace later when we replace the cracked dash and headliner. Going from a drab black to this bright and vibrant package transformed the interior of our Bug. It is no longer a place sadness, it is fresh, bright, and fun, just like a Beetle should be. </p>
Source
TMI Products • (888) 460-0640 • tmiproducts.com
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