BeSPOKE 07

1<br />

PrePPy Story<br />

Bucolic country life Style<br />

caPri Hotel Punta tragara<br />

tHe art of camouflage<br />

orient exPreSS: from<br />

PariS to Kuala lumPur<br />

luciano BarBera: elegance<br />

and refinement tHat tranScendS<br />

all roadS lead to formentera…

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zilli.fr<br />

MILAN<br />

Via Gesù, 5 - (+39) 024 95 41950<br />

AARON YOUNG<br />

PARIS 2013<br />

the fi nest garment for men in the world<br />

The term camouflage literally means a disguise which allows animals,<br />

things and objects to merge with their surroundings and<br />

become formally invisible. It is also used as a solution for wartime<br />

and military purposes.<br />

In the specific case of BESPOKE we like the idea of putting a mask<br />

over our logo which hides its real identity from the world. And<br />

additionally we like the idea of accompanying the camouflage<br />

theme into the world of fashion, accessories and design objects<br />

which will be very fashionable next year too.<br />

It is a new trend in all sectors but it is also a way for quality products<br />

to be highly fashionable but at the same time minimally visible.<br />

A transformism which underlines minimalist luxury in terms<br />

of visual display too.<br />

At this point, dear readers, in this triad of hidden minimalism you will<br />

find quality stories dressed up in salsa chic and cool from our editorial<br />

team and our contributors served up with the consummate skill<br />

of an international chef making dishes of great creativity.<br />

A journey through the preppy universe, the precursor to many styles<br />

which are still in vogue, culinary offerings from exotic restaurants,<br />

the creations of a great Venetian jewellery maker, the masterpieces<br />

of a Japanese cobbler via the Parmigiani atelier with a glance at the<br />

production secrets of this prestigious fine watchmaker.<br />

editorial<br />

We have put down on paper the words and images of the “most<br />

elegant man of the century”, Luciano Barbera, without forgetting<br />

to celebrate the first 25 years of Villa Paradiso with its creators Joelle<br />

and Danilo.<br />

Birthdays are our speciality and we certainly couldn’t forget Mick<br />

Jagger’s 70th birthday and the myth of the Rolling Stones via the<br />

beautiful aura of the Bucolica country life and the luxuries of a<br />

journey on rails on board the Orient Express.<br />

And we’ll take a rest from these efforts in the splendid retreat of a<br />

mansion with a view of the Faraglioni in Capri before we have our<br />

measurements taken for a tailored suit in Singapore.<br />

Without fear of getting jet lagged we’ll spend 24 elegant hours<br />

in Belgrade with a trip to relive the glorious splendours of Hotel<br />

Martinez in Cannes and take the time out for a wonderful holiday<br />

in the sun in Formentera as guest of a famous restaurant which<br />

goes by the name of Chezz Gerdi.<br />

My colleagues and I are citizens of the world and you’ll find only<br />

quality objects and souvenirs in our suitcases as we’re always on<br />

the look out for the beautiful.<br />

Foule sentimentale, la soif d’idéale.<br />

By Giansandro Cantori<br />

3

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6<br />

Cover: Sciamat jacket and gilet, Grevi hat / Photo by Guido Taroni<br />

PuBliSHer in cHief/editorial director<br />

Giansandro Cantori - publisher@bespokemagazine.it<br />

editor-in-cHief - Flavio Incarbone - flavio.incarbone@gurkhanewmedia.com<br />

managing editor - Paolo Giola - paolo.giola@gurkhanewmedia.com<br />

art direction<br />

Jenna Bandini, Leonardo Devecchi, Pasquale Di Meglio (Lumen Group)<br />

editorial Staff - Via Conca del Naviglio 18 20123 Milano<br />

contriButorS<br />

Delfina Ashley, Alex Bugnon, Monica Camozzi, Giansandro Cantori,<br />

Luca Crescenzi, Alberto Gerosa, Flavio Incarbone, J. A. Kent,<br />

Roberta Lo Baido, Fabrizio de’ Marinis, Beba Marsano, Tess Masazza,<br />

Delia Massone Berrino, Gianni Mercatali, Frank Night, Lapo Quagli,<br />

Sara Noseda, Rocío P. Vallejo, Paola Perfetti, Roberta Roccati,<br />

Serge Simonart, Susanna Tanzi, Romano Torre Bianca<br />

PHotograPHerS<br />

Aromicreativi, Corbis, Lapo Quagli, Francesco Rastrelli,<br />

Lyle F. Roblin, Guido Taroni<br />

PuBliSHer, adVertiSing and adminiStration<br />

Gurkha New Media s.r.l. - Via S. Vittore, 40 - 20123 Milan<br />

www.bespokemagazine.it<br />

PHotolitHograPHy and PrePreSS<br />

Lumen Group - www.lumengroup.com<br />

Founder partner Pietro Rovatti<br />

Printing<br />

Tecnografica srl - Via degli Artigiani, 4<br />

22<strong>07</strong>4 Lomazzo (CO) - tel.: +39-0296779218 – www.tecnografica.ws<br />

international diStriButor<br />

Export Press - 36 Rue Des Petits Champs<br />

75002 Paris - France - Tel: +33 (0) 1 40291451<br />

www.exportpress.com - info@exportpress.com<br />

italian diStriButor<br />

Intercontinental s.r.l. - Via Verracini, 9 - 20124 Milan (Italy)<br />

Tel (+39) 02 67<strong>07</strong> 3227 - www.intercontinental.it<br />

adVertiSing<br />

info@bespokemagazine.it<br />

tranSlation<br />

SIMULTANEA di Manuela Ravetta & C. Sas, Milan, Italy - www.simultanea.it<br />

MILAN COURT AUTHORISATION no. 61 OF 15-02-2010<br />

BESPOKE THE CHIC & COOL<br />

The editors obtained copyright permission to publish them from the owners of the photographs.<br />

Where this was not possible we are available to settle any claims.

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jacobcohen.it

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16 - BEHIM, ACCESSORIES<br />

21 - BEHER, ACCESSORIES<br />

24 - BEEAT: AMMO HONG KONG DELIGHTS<br />

28 - BEEXENCE: FRANCIS KURKDJIAN<br />

30 - BEJEWELS: THE TREASURES OF VENICE<br />

34 - BEWATCH:<br />

RAIDILLON, CHRISTOPHE CLARET,<br />

HERMèS, BELL & ROSS,<br />

BREITLING, ALPINA<br />

40 - BEHOTEL:<br />

THE PALAIS NAMASKAR MARRAKECH<br />

THE WAUWINET INN NANTUCKET ISLAND<br />

AMANGIRI RESORT UTAH<br />

46 - BESHOES: MASARU OKUyAMA, zEN AND MACARON<br />

54 - BEMOVE: ASCARI BICyCLES<br />

58 - BEBOOK: VELO - 2ND GEAR<br />

64 - STyLE AND POWER UNCONVENTIONAL ELEGANCE<br />

PREPPy STORy: AN IVy CULTURE LIFE STyLE<br />

94 - PARMIGIANI, A TRUE LIFE IN TIME<br />

102 - LUCIANO BARBERA MAN OF TWO CENTURIES<br />

114 - ETERNITy ON THE LAKEFRONT OF PLEASURE<br />

25 yEARS OF VILLA PARADISO<br />

126 - ANDRé, HOLISTIC TASTE<br />

132 - THE PULSE OF HISTORy<br />

138 - MICK JAGGER “FOREVER yOUNG”<br />

144 - DRESS CODE (R)EVOLUTION PRADA AUTUMN-WINTER 2013<br />

148 - BUCOLICA: THE COUNTRy LIFE<br />

160 - THE TIMELESS CHARM OF THE DANDy<br />

168 - SCHNEIDERS IN THE DOLOMITES<br />

11

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12<br />

175 - BECARS<br />

176 - AUDI TRADITION<br />

186 - VERNASCA SILVER FLAG<br />

192 - THE TSARINA OF UNIQUES SPECIAL ONES<br />

196 - BURMA: ON THE PATH OF THE BURMA ROAD CLASSIC<br />

202 - BUGATTI LEGEND EDITION<br />

206 - ASTON MARTIN’S 100TH<br />

210 - CUERVO y SOBRINOS CUP<br />

FROM BORMIO TO THE LEGENDARy ALPINE PASSES<br />

217 - DRIVING MERCEDES CLA 220<br />

218 - THE BIG CLASH<br />

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD AND MALCOM MCLAREN<br />

222 - PALME D’OR AND THE RED CARPET<br />

226 - JUST CALL ME CAMO<br />

231 - ORIENT - EXPRESS A DREAM ON RAIL<br />

236 - BRINGING POLO HOME<br />

240 - CAPRI, HOTEL PUNTA TRAGARA<br />

249 - KEVIN SEAH, CUSTOM MADE SyNERGy<br />

254 - FRANKFURT, FROM GOETHE TO THE MAIN TOWER<br />

260 - MASERATI GHIBLI: A TRUE TRIDENT<br />

268 - IN THE “SEEKER’S” WUNDERKAMMER<br />

274 - BELGRADE: 24 HOURS OF ELEGANCE<br />

281 - COEVO By CECCHI<br />

284 - GRAND HyATT CANNES HOTEL MARTINEz<br />

288 - POLO BREMA<br />

293 - INTIMITé<br />

298 - ALL ROADS LEAD TO FORMENTERA<br />

HACKETT.COM

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By j.A. kEnt<br />

16<br />

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14<br />

1. SHAVING BRUSH<br />

WITH STAG-HORN HANDLE<br />

By MURDOCK LONDON.<br />

www.muRdoCklondon.Com<br />

2. WALLET IN LEATHER<br />

By DRIES VAN NOTEN.<br />

www.dRiESvAnnotEn.BE<br />

3. FLIGHTDECK WATCH<br />

By U-BOAT WATCH.<br />

www.u-BoAtwAtCh.Com<br />

4. WINDOWPANE JACKET By HACKETT.<br />

www.hACkEtt.Com<br />

5. PORTABLE TRAVEL<br />

BAR/SUITCASE, 1931 By BONHAMS.<br />

www.BonhAmS.Com<br />

6. NABUK OXFORD SHOE<br />

WITH CAMO SOLE, RUFFA.<br />

www.dAniElERuffA.Com<br />

7. GOLD AND ROCK CRySTAL<br />

CUFFLINKS By FOUNDWELL.<br />

www.foundwEll.Com<br />

8. CASHMERE-BLEND SCARF<br />

By GIVENCHy.<br />

www.givEnChy.Com<br />

9. LEATHER BRIEFCASE<br />

By FOSTER AND SON.<br />

www.foStER.Co.uk<br />

10. CRONO SORCI VERDI<br />

WATCH By TCM.<br />

www.tERRACiElomARE.it<br />

11. KUDU TASSEL SLIP-ON<br />

By ANCHOR BRIDGE.<br />

www.AnChoRBRidgE.jp<br />

12. ACETATE SUNGLASSES<br />

By CUTLER AND GROSS.<br />

www.CutlERAndgRoSS.Com<br />

13. HIP FLASK<br />

By SAIRA HUNJAN FOR ETTINGER.<br />

www.EttingER.Co.uk<br />

14. BARRA JACKET<br />

By BARBOUR X NORTON & SONS.<br />

www.BARBouR.Com<br />

15. EMBOSSED BUCKLE BELT<br />

IN yELLOW By LEVI’S CLOTHING.<br />

www.lEvi.Com<br />

17<br />

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16. PLAID TWEED By DUNCAN QUINN.<br />

www.dunCAnquinn.Com<br />

17. SCARF IN SILK TWILL<br />

By NEISHA CROSLAND.<br />

www.nEiShACRoSlAnd.Com<br />

18. MATAHARI SUNGLASSES<br />

By SUNDAy SOMEWHERE<br />

www.SundAySomEwhERE.Com<br />

19. DOG-PRINT WOOL TIE By DRAKE’S.<br />

www.dRAkES-london.Com<br />

20. SUEDE TRAVEL BAG By VALEXTRA.<br />

www.vAlExtRA.it<br />

21. MIyAGI KOGyO SHOES<br />

www.miyAgikogyo.Co.jp<br />

22. ABINGDON MESSENGER<br />

BAG By J.CREW.<br />

www.jCREw.Com<br />

23. WATCH IN CARBONIUM<br />

By zENITH.<br />

www.zEnith-wAtChES.Com<br />

24. TOWN COAT By SUPERDRy<br />

AND TIMOTHy EVEREST.<br />

www.SupERdRy.it<br />

25. REALTREE XTRA(R) CAMO<br />

ACTIVE JAC By CARHARTT.<br />

www.CARhARtt.Com<br />

26. OAKLEy CROWBAR SNOWBOARD<br />

GOGGLE - CAMO/VR28.<br />

it.oAklEy.Com<br />

27. DAVIS 5 PANEL HAT By VANS.<br />

Shop.vAnS.Com<br />

28. BROWN NyLON<br />

MESSENGER BAG By FELISI.<br />

www.fEliSiBAgSAndBEltS.it<br />

18<br />

29. CAMO IPHONE 5 CASE<br />

By JACK SPADE.<br />

www.jACkSpAdE.Com<br />

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30. JACK PURCELL LOW PROFILE<br />

CAMO SLIP By CONVERSE.<br />

www.ConvERSE.Com<br />

31.CAMO SCARF By RALPH LAUREN.<br />

www.RAlphlAuREn.Com<br />

32. CAMO T -SHIRT By G STAR RAW.<br />

www.g-StAR.Com<br />

33. HESH2-REALTREE TAN W/MIC 1<br />

SKULLCANDy.<br />

Eu.SkullCAndy.Com<br />

34.THE 51-30 CHRONO By NIXON.<br />

it.nixon.Com<br />

35. RED CAMO By TRUSSARDI.<br />

www.tRuSSARdi.Com<br />

19<br />

33<br />

36. I-THERMIC By ITALIA INDEPENDENT.<br />

www.itAliAindEpEndEnt.Com<br />

37. ALPHA BRAVO LUGGAGE By TUMI.<br />

www.tumi.Com<br />

38. SUPERDRy TRUE MONTANA<br />

BACKPACK - ARMy CAMO.<br />

www.SupERdRy.it<br />

29<br />

39. CAMOUFLAGE SLIPPER By CAR SHOE.<br />

www.CARShoE.Com<br />

28

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Importer for Italia : PREMIERE - Via Corletto Sud 382 - 41126 Baggiovara di Modena - Tél. 059 51 2373 - info@villaalcorletto.it<br />

PLEASE DRINK MODERATELY<br />

On the 25 th May 1728,<br />

Louis XV of France made<br />

viticultural history by<br />

issuing a decree allowing<br />

only the wines of<br />

Champagne to be both<br />

shipped and marketed in<br />

bottle.<br />

2<br />

3<br />

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By moniCA CAmozzi<br />

1. BLACK & BROWN DIAMONDS<br />

FOR DODO’S NIGHTWEAR<br />

BRACELET DECORATED WITH BATS,<br />

LITTLE OWLS AND SWALLOWS<br />

FOR A DARK EFFECT WHICH<br />

CONTRASTS WITH THE BRIGHTNESS<br />

OF THE SILVER.<br />

www.dodo.it<br />

2. IN NAPPA OR SOFT SUEDE<br />

WITH A HIDDEN 8 CM WEDGE HEEL<br />

AND CRISP COLOURS, CASADEL<br />

SNEAKERS ARE TOTALLy ONE<br />

OF THE HITS OF THE WINTER SEASON.<br />

www.CASAdEi.Com<br />

3. TOURMALINE, QUARTz,<br />

AMETHySTS, TOPAz AND LOLITE<br />

FOR MARCO BICEGO’S MURANO<br />

COLLECTION.<br />

www.mARCoBiCEgo.Com<br />

4. THIS SLOWEAR SHIRT<br />

IS IN CHAMBRAy WITH STUD WORK<br />

ON THE NECK AND ROUNDED<br />

FRONT POCKET.<br />

www.SlowEAR.Com<br />

5. BLACK PROFILE ON GRISAILLE<br />

FOR THIS ATOS LOMBARDINI TRENCH<br />

COAT WHICH BRINGS THE CAPE<br />

COAT BACK INTO FASHION.<br />

www.AtoSlomBARdini.Com<br />

6. DIGITAL GRAPHISM AND SEVENTIES<br />

MORPHOLOGy: ATOS LOMBARDINI’S<br />

PANTS GIVE A TOUCH OF CHIC<br />

TO DISCO STyLE.<br />

www.AtoSlomBARdini.Com<br />

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7. iN POLyCHROME REPTILE,<br />

THIS CORTOMOLTEDO BAG<br />

IS PART VANITy CASE<br />

AND PART SHOPPER<br />

TO BREATHE LIFE INTO<br />

A UNIQUE DESIGN PIECE.<br />

www.CoRto.Com<br />

8. TURQUOISE, SAFFRON<br />

AND OCHRE COMBINE IN THIS<br />

TASSELLED CLUTCH BAG<br />

By CORTOMOLTEDO.<br />

www.CoRto.Com<br />

9. CASUAL ACCORDING<br />

TO INCOTEX: ORCHID PRINT<br />

STRETCH CHINO, 16.5 CM<br />

BOTTOM AND REAR<br />

TAILORED POCKET.<br />

www.SlowEAR.Com<br />

10. VERSACE STyLED ANORAK<br />

IN OPTICAL VERSION.<br />

www.vERSACE.Com<br />

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11. DéCO STyLE GOLD STANDS<br />

OUT AGAINST THE BLUE<br />

OF THIS MATTHEW WILLIAMSON<br />

LONG DRESS WITH A BELTED WAIST.<br />

www.mAtthEwwilliAmSon.Com<br />

12. A SEVENTIES LOOK<br />

FOR THIS SINGLE-BREASTED<br />

JACKET IN MICRO-PRINTED<br />

GEOMETRIC VELVET, JACOB COHEN.<br />

www.jACoBCohEn.it<br />

13. NARDELLI GIOIELLI BRINGS<br />

A SyMBOL OF 1960S<br />

ANTI-MILITARISM BACK INTO FASH-<br />

ION, PEACE AND LOVE, WITH THIS<br />

PIECE IN DIAMONDS AND WHITE<br />

GOLD.<br />

www.nARdElligioiElli.it<br />

14. CHAMPAGNE COLOUR ECO<br />

FUR JACKET, MC GREGOR.<br />

www.mCgREgoR-fAShion.Com<br />

15. AUBERGINE TEXTURE<br />

AND SOFT CONSISTENCy FOR<br />

THIS KARL LAGERFELD BAG.<br />

www.kARllAgERfEld.Com<br />

23<br />

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By RomAno toRRE BiAnCA<br />

24<br />

Ammo<br />

Hong Kong delights<br />

It was once a British army deposit, a bunker in<br />

which arms and munitions were kept hidden and<br />

protected. Today - after a bold and audacious<br />

style exercise by designer Joyce Wang - AMMO<br />

is a temple of food in the Admiralty quarter of<br />

Hong Kong and rather than explosive, the dishes<br />

in question are delicate, flavourful and sometimes<br />

chilli hot, inspired by the creativity of chefs Tony<br />

Cheng and Roland Schuller.<br />

From the outside nothing would lead you to expect<br />

what you will later find before your eyes and<br />

specially not with 6 metres of concrete above your<br />

head. But whatever its dimension, it’s the decoration<br />

and materials - mainly in copper - which<br />

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Ammo RESTAURANT<br />

IS IN hong kong’S CHINESE<br />

QUARTER, ALPHAVILLE.<br />

THE DOMINANT COLOUR<br />

AND PREDOMINANT MATERIAL<br />

IS COPPER WHILE THE GREAT<br />

WINDOWS ARE SURROUNDED<br />

WITH ORGANIC DECORATIONS<br />

ACHIEVED WITH ASSORTED<br />

GREEN PLANTS.<br />

26<br />

complete the spaces of this restaurant. Those who<br />

designed it took their inspiration from the film noir<br />

masterpiece, Alphaville, a 1965 science fiction film<br />

directed by Jean-Luc Godard that explores the<br />

connection between art, technology and society.<br />

Just inside, you can find classic tables and chairs<br />

but in the centre of the room there’s an area<br />

with tall tables and elegant stools, while on the<br />

left you’ll see large settees which create a further<br />

space within a space. There are also other stools in<br />

front of the bar counter and if you raise your eyes,<br />

the central feature of the space is a set of three<br />

sculptural spiral staircases (a recurring theme of<br />

the film) constructed as chandeliers purely out of<br />

copper plumbing pipes and cascading from the<br />

six-meter high ceiling. The shades of the chandeliers<br />

are crafted out of bent copper mesh and rods,<br />

a reference to materials used in military and industrial<br />

settings. The bunker-like ceiling is supported<br />

by copper ribs and lit warmly to further evoke the<br />

building’s history as an explosive warehouse.<br />

www.ammo.com.hk

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By SARA noSEdA<br />

To every perfume<br />

its flower<br />

to every perfume<br />

its name<br />

Designed for the skin including eau de toilette and<br />

creams, room sprays and linen fragrances, La Maison<br />

Francis Kurkdjian’s jewel-like vials encompass<br />

diverse worlds and flowers. The Versailles atmosphere<br />

echoes the powdered notes of Lumière<br />

Noire and the Oriental atmosphere reverberates<br />

with the Moroccan white thyme of Pour le Matin.<br />

Absolute Spicy, on the other hand, is suffused<br />

with Madagascar with red cumin, ylang ylang and<br />

sandalwood. Apom encompasses the perfumes<br />

of the Mediterranean blending orange blossoms<br />

and citron peel. Aqua Universalis is musky and floral.<br />

Oud is woody and spicy and Amir is suffused<br />

with blooming irises in a lemon orchard. Francis<br />

Kurkdjian, creator of the famous eau de toilette<br />

Le Màle for Jean-Paul Gaultier, For Her and For<br />

Him for Narciso Rodriguez, L’Odeur d’Argent for<br />

Sophie Calle, Rumer by Lancome, F for Ferragamo<br />

and Ma Dame for Guerlain, has recently created his<br />

own line. His Paris boutique, just a short distance<br />

from Place Vendôme, displays decorations by artist<br />

Anne Lévine, sound designer Béatrice Ardisson has<br />

composed a soundtrack and the perfume bottles<br />

are made by expert glassmakers. Kurkdjian has also<br />

reinvented Queen Marie Antoinette’s perfume, he<br />

creates fragrance installations and considers himself<br />

an all-round artist. His partnership with Marc<br />

Chaya since 2009 has produced a range of elegant<br />

and sophisticated perfumes which reinvent the<br />

classic design. Made to measure perfumes can also<br />

be made for clients who want to feel totally unique.<br />

www.franciskurkdjian.com<br />

“WHAT’S IN A NAME?<br />

THAT WHICH WE CALL A ROSE<br />

By ANy OTHER NAME WOULD<br />

SMELL AS SWEET…”<br />

ROMEO AND JULIET<br />

(1594-1596)<br />

William ShakeSpeare<br />

28 29

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By SARA noSEdA<br />

The treasures<br />

of Venice<br />

30<br />

CodognAto, A TRADITION<br />

BORN IN 1866.<br />

1<br />

Imagine the rich and prosperous Venice at the<br />

end of the sixteenth century, a city in tumult with<br />

gold and spice merchants and Tintoretto painting<br />

illuminated views of the Ducal Palace. A fleet of<br />

pirates attacking the city and sacking the villas of<br />

the Venetian nobility and taking possession of the<br />

precious treasures passed on from family to family.<br />

Rooms decorated with diamonds and jaquard fabrics<br />

and silks, set tables, luxuries and court secrets.<br />

Paintings in brass frames, ink horns and pens abandoned<br />

by the side of a human skull on a wooden<br />

desk and Hamlet written on parchment. This is the<br />

mood which has characterised more than two generations<br />

of the Codognato name, a sophisticated<br />

jeweller’s dating to 1866 close to Piazza San Marco,<br />

between the Hermès and Chanel boutiques. The<br />

Codognato family made its name creating jewellery<br />

at the beginning of the nineteenth century<br />

with Simeone Codognato, a great connoisseur<br />

of antiques and Etruscan and Byzantine art. And<br />

it was precisely in this panorama of gold, extravagance<br />

and diamonds that he and later his son Attilio,<br />

still at the head of the company, presents its<br />

collection of precious jewellery. Serpents winding<br />

2<br />

over fingers with rubies instead of eyes and crawling<br />

out of the eye sockets of great gold skulls. Rings,<br />

bracelets, cameos, crowns covered with precious<br />

stones and symbols of death in the midst of crows,<br />

birds of prey, owls and crocodiles recovered from<br />

nineteenth century Romantic paintings. It seems<br />

to be reminding us that death is inevitable, imminent,<br />

a sort of symbol of carpe diem, an invitation<br />

to enjoy life and live each day as if it was our last.<br />

A taste for the Renaissance but also for Romantic<br />

themes, Baroque forms, the recovery of Byzantine<br />

gold and ancient Etruscan art and then there is<br />

5<br />

3<br />

the atmosphere of pirates treasures which remain<br />

alive in the legends of doomed sailing ships. And all<br />

this for more than one hundred years in the same<br />

boutique, a building in wood with its sign painted<br />

above an arch in old style, a symbol of Venice for<br />

more than a century. The shop is still frequented<br />

by famous personalities such as Sergei Diaghilev,<br />

Elton John, and Carine Roitfeld. Once you cross the<br />

threshold you will feel as if you had walked into an<br />

original Wunderkammer. And you, what souvenir<br />

will you buy next time you visit Venice? A gondolier’s<br />

hat or a golden serpent by Codognato?<br />

4<br />

6<br />

1. GOLD BANGLE WITH<br />

ENGRAVED AND CHISELED<br />

SNAKE MOTIF, DIAMONDS<br />

AND RUBIES.<br />

2. A VANITy RING WHICH MANy<br />

OTHER DESIGNERS ALL AROUND<br />

THE WORLD HAVE BEEN<br />

INSPIRED By.<br />

3. A VANITy RING IN CORAL<br />

AND GOLD.<br />

4. GOLD PLATED<br />

AND DIAMOND EARRINGS<br />

IN THE FORM OF TWO SKULLS.<br />

5. GRANDE BROCHE MORETTO<br />

IN GOLD WITH ANTIQUE<br />

CAMEOS.<br />

6. VIRTUOSO MORETTO<br />

VENEzIANO WITH A CHEST<br />

FULL OF JEWELS ON HIS HEAD.<br />

31

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By dEliA mASSonE BERRino<br />

Raidillon 55<br />

Limited Edition<br />

A limited edition of 55 for this Swiss house which<br />

was born of a passion for racing and cars. And<br />

naturally, every single variant (Casual Friday, Design,<br />

Night Panel, Timeless, Cruise, Havana and<br />

Racing) is available in only 55 pieces. Belgian<br />

design - inspiration comes from the Spa-Francorchamps<br />

circuit - and Swiss mechanisms for<br />

handmade elegance and precision with international<br />

charm. Every strap has been handmade in<br />

34<br />

Belgium by specialised laboratories using the finest<br />

leathers. The anti-reflex sapphire glass makes<br />

it very easy to read and its clean design with a<br />

42 mm case and strong colours makes it both<br />

sporty and decidedly masculine.<br />

There is also a 55 Chronograph with automatic<br />

movement and an extra touch of exclusivity for<br />

a truly special collection.<br />

www.raidillon-watches.com<br />

Christophe Claret<br />

Christophe Claret’s X-trem-1 is a true marriage of<br />

engineering and mechanics. Different from any<br />

other watch, its flying tourbillon is tilted 30 degrees<br />

with a retrograde hours and minutes display system.<br />

Hours are shown by means of two spheres<br />

inside two sapphire glass tubes to the right and left<br />

of the case. And here’s the revolution in watchmaking:<br />

the spheres move as a result of magnetic fields.<br />

It is the dawn of a new generation. One offshoot is<br />

X-trem-1 Pinball which was created specially for<br />

the charity auction Only Watch in Monaco. Taking<br />

a cue from the ball game, the Pinball model overtly<br />

echoes the Flipper in its mechanisms. And Adagio<br />

is a technical challenge with its double time zone<br />

and repeating minute hand and date display. An<br />

unmistakable feature of this piece is its cathedral<br />

style gong which makes it even more special. Soprano,<br />

on the other hand, is further proof of this<br />

Swiss house’s professionalism. It is a watch which<br />

‘sings’ its manual movements, minutes and tourbillon.<br />

The four mini hammers which produce its<br />

sound and Westminster Chime are visible because<br />

there is no dial.<br />

www.christopheclaret.com<br />

35

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Hermès, galloping<br />

to the moon<br />

Elegance, sophistication and passion, these are<br />

the French house’s key words, a house which has<br />

had links with horse riding - the Hermès emblem<br />

- since its inception. The sophisticated Arceau<br />

model is perhaps the one which best represents<br />

this world. Its classic strap with saddle stitch - the<br />

house’s manufacturing trade mark - is unmistakable<br />

as are its tilted numbers. And without taking<br />

away any of the classic design created by its de-<br />

36<br />

signer Henri D’Origny in 1978, the new features<br />

of Arceau Petite Lune are a deep blue disc showing<br />

the lunar phases while the calendar indicates<br />

the days showing the movements of the moon.<br />

Its 38 mm case makes it more feminine and it is<br />

available in luminous mother of pearl or black.<br />

Its crocodile strap is stitched with the Hermès<br />

brand’s characteristic stitching.<br />

www.hermes.com<br />

Bell & Ross<br />

Vintage Original<br />

Inspired by the world of aviation, the Bell & Ross<br />

Vintage Original collection pays homage to the<br />

World War Two aviators who considered their<br />

wristwatches an indispensable tool for their missions.<br />

Vintage BR 123 is available in automatic or<br />

chronograph versions in straightforward lines,<br />

satin effect case, curved glass and antique effect<br />

strap - all of which echoes the classic lines of<br />

the watches of the day. Vintage WW1-97 (Wrist<br />

Watch 1) is, on the other hand, the evolution of<br />

a Bell & Ross tradition, the pocket watch. Taking<br />

its cue from 1920s aviation this collection aims to<br />

recreate the thrills of those pilots who wore the<br />

first wristwatches.<br />

A 45 mm case, curved, anti-reflex glass, a thin but<br />

strong strap - a piece of the past which is contemporary<br />

once again.<br />

www.bellross.com<br />

37

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Breitling for Bentley<br />

England and Switzerland are celebrating the ten<br />

years since they met in great style. It was in 2003<br />

that the energy of a Bentley which had started<br />

racing in the Le Mans 24 hours once again met<br />

Breitling precision. Three new mechanisms which<br />

link the intrepid spirit of the motorcar with the<br />

sophistication of fine watchmaking. Bentley B06,<br />

Bentley B05 Unitime and Bentley B04 GMT. It is<br />

a trio which is certified by COSC (Official Swiss<br />

Chronograph Control) which is the offspring<br />

of this encounter between these two top class<br />

38<br />

houses. The distinguishing feature of this Bentley<br />

B06 are its special ‘30 second chronograph’ and<br />

its ‘variable tachometer’ which are internationally<br />

unique features which make it such a one off and<br />

its high frequency automatic movements. Bentley<br />

B05 Unitime and Bentley B04 GMT are aimed at<br />

men for whom life is an art with the former’s dual<br />

time zone and the latter’s single hour.<br />

Three objects, three essences, three chronographs<br />

- to make every man unique.<br />

www.breitlingforbentley.com<br />

Alpina extreme<br />

The new Alpina brand item has two variants: automatic<br />

and quartz.<br />

Extreme Diver 300 Orange has been designed for<br />

all those who love underwater watches and for<br />

professional divers. Its two versions differ only in<br />

their movements and sizes (a 44mm case for the<br />

automatic, 38mm for the quartz model) but are<br />

very similar in other respects.<br />

Both are in anti-reflex, non-scratch sapphire glass<br />

to make them easy to read, both have fluorescent<br />

indicators, hands and bezel which can save<br />

lives in total darkness and both are elegantly<br />

sporty and comfortable. Straps are available in<br />

metal or rubber. An orange colour was chosen<br />

on the basis of the process of colour absorption<br />

in deep water.<br />

In these situations, in fact, it has been shown that<br />

orange is the colour which ensures the greatest<br />

contrast - the deeper the water the more readable<br />

the numbers.<br />

And all this down to 300 metres.<br />

www.alpina-watches.com<br />

39

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By dEliA mASSonE BERRino<br />

40<br />

The Palais Namaskar<br />

Marrakech<br />

In true Moroccan style, this palace makes its guests<br />

feel truly royal. With a position which is unique<br />

worldwide and a context which is difficult to beat<br />

with its view of the Atlas mountain chain but only<br />

20 minutes by car from Marrakech’s old city, the<br />

Medina quarter and Jemaa el-Fnaa square, it is<br />

a UNESCO heritage site and an unmissable stop<br />

for anyone who wants to discover what the city<br />

has to offer, starting from the snake charmers. The<br />

hotel has a limousine service to take you to Marrakech,<br />

the airport or Casablanca (two hours by<br />

car) but that’s not all. The resort’s private jets can<br />

also take you to Casablanca or other airports in<br />

Europe in just a few minutes. Palais Namaskar will<br />

make your stay in the hotel absolutely unique and<br />

unforgettable. As well as a range of rooms there<br />

are also three types of suite, two sumptuous villas<br />

and three luxurious palaces, its spa is set into the<br />

12 acres of the resort’s grounds and some therapies<br />

can be done in the open air in natural light for<br />

total body and mind balance.<br />

www.palaisnamaskar.com<br />

5 EXQUISITE RESTAURANTS<br />

ARE AVAILABLE TO CLIENTS<br />

SERVING EVERyTHING FROM<br />

FRENCH AND INTERNATIONAL<br />

CUISINES TO MOROCCAN<br />

TRADITIONS.<br />

pAlAiS nAmASkAR<br />

IS PERFECT yEAR ROUND<br />

WITH A MILD CLIMATE 365<br />

DAyS A yEAR AND IT IS THUS<br />

IDEAL IN WINTER TOO.<br />

41

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42<br />

TOPPER’S IS wAuwinEt’S<br />

FIRST-RATE RESTAURANT<br />

FOR EXTREMELy FRESH FISH<br />

WITH AN ENCHANTING VIEW<br />

OF THE nAntuCkEt BAy<br />

AND IT IS OPEN TO THOSE<br />

STAyING ELSEWHERE ON<br />

THE ISLAND TOO. WAUWINET<br />

LADy IS THE BOAT SERVICE<br />

WHICH THE HOTEL PUTS AT<br />

THE DISPOSAL OF ALL THOSE<br />

WHO ARE LOOKING FOR<br />

A ROMANTIC EVENING.<br />

TOPPER’S DECK IS,<br />

ON THE OTHER HAND,<br />

AN INFORMAL ALTERNATIVE<br />

FOR LUNCH OR A COCKTAIL<br />

AFTER DINNER.<br />

The Wauwinet Inn<br />

Nantucket Island<br />

The island of Nantucket in Massachusetts is a holidaymakers<br />

paradise and, for the Americans, it is a<br />

perfect refuge after a week of work or a place to relax<br />

for the whole summer. Just 48 kilometres from Cape<br />

Cod, you can get to the island by sea or air. 5 hours<br />

by car from New york and an hour and a half from<br />

Boston to get to the ferry to Nantucket or those who<br />

prefer air travel can fly from Philadelphia, Providence,<br />

Hynnis, New Bedford, Boston or Newark. A reference<br />

point for tourists and others, Wauwinet Hotel is by<br />

the north east of the island near the Great Point Wildlife<br />

Sanctuary. Built in the middle of the nineteenth<br />

century as a restaurant for the wealthy owners of<br />

summer homes, it was soon turned into a luxury<br />

resort because of its unbeatable position. Overlooking<br />

the sea, its views open up over the Pacific Ocean<br />

with a private beach and a picture postcard panorama.<br />

32 elegantly decorated and furnished rooms in<br />

which the bywords are attention to detail, 4 cottages<br />

for a more intimate and private stay, a multiple prizewinning<br />

restaurant and a spa whose very name gets<br />

you dreaming: “Spa by the sea”. In a setting like this<br />

outdoor activities are a must: lobster fishing, windsurf<br />

lessons, trekking and bicycle hire are just some of the<br />

options that the resort offers.<br />

www.wauwinet.com<br />

43

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44<br />

Amangiri Resort<br />

Utah<br />

Forget the skyscrapers and the seafront cycle<br />

tracks. Here you can breathe the same air that the<br />

Navajo people breathed. The desert has never<br />

been this fascinating. The warm tones of the rocks<br />

at sunset with their orange hues surround this resort<br />

in the heart of the United States. Amangiri<br />

Resort is in the state of Utah but just a few kilometres<br />

away from Four Corners, the meeting point<br />

of Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado and Utah. The<br />

town to look for on the map is Page which is just<br />

25 minutes away by car and the nearest airport is<br />

there. It is an unbeatable location: Grand Canyon,<br />

Bryce Canyon, zion National Park, Glen Canyon,<br />

Grand Staircase - Escalante National Monument,<br />

Mexican Hat and Lake Powell are all natural won-<br />

ders which are at most a few hours away by car<br />

from this breathtaking hotel, the perfect place<br />

to relax after a day discovering Native American<br />

traditions without disturbing the enchantment<br />

of the landscapes. A great central pavilion and<br />

two wings jutting out into the desert: 34 suites<br />

in total, 18 in the Mesa wing together with the<br />

Aman spa and 16 in the Desert wing. The main<br />

building is built around the swimming pool and<br />

inside there is a restaurant, art gallery and a private<br />

dining room for 10 people at most with a wine<br />

cellar and a cigar room. The Desert Lounge is the<br />

ideal space to enjoy the colours of the sunset or<br />

the clear, starry sky which only the desert can offer.<br />

www.amanresorts.com<br />

45

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By giAnSAndRo CAntoRi<br />

46<br />

Masaru Okuyama,<br />

zen and macaron<br />

The Japanese are certainly well educated, talented,<br />

patient and they often have a special<br />

talent for manual tasks. Just look at origami,<br />

bonsai, the making of katana swords - all of<br />

these are produced only in Japan using that extraordinary<br />

technique tied to craftwork activities<br />

taken to the highest artistic levels.<br />

Masaru Okuyama belongs to this artisan tradition.<br />

There is a new fashion at the moment,<br />

almost a new wave which I would call atypical,<br />

of shoemakers who do not come from the<br />

Mittel-European classical school but rather from<br />

Asia, talented artisans who come from Japan<br />

above all. Masaru is Japanese by birth but he<br />

lives in Hong Kong. It was in Paris, however, that<br />

he learnt his trade. Born in 1976, and thus still<br />

young to be a master, his professional journey<br />

is one that I would call bold.<br />

He worked for a Japanese jewellery brand and<br />

was sent to Hong Kong for training for a few<br />

years. There he saw the light. He realised that<br />

he didn’t want to work in an office all his life, his<br />

love for shoes sparked off a new life and love to<br />

pursue. All this lead him to decide to learn how<br />

to make made to measure shoes, by hand.<br />

At the age of 29 he knocked on the door of a<br />

Tokyo shoemaking school and in two years of<br />

hard training he became a made to measure<br />

cobbler. As a perfectionist as he is Masaru decided<br />

to sharpen his skills in the best place in<br />

order to be able to answer the question: “where<br />

did you learn your trade”? He thus took up his<br />

weapons once more together with his luggage<br />

and went to France. Paris was well worth the<br />

effort and here he met some of the capital’s<br />

most famous cobblers, John Lobb, Corthay,<br />

Massaro, Dimitri Gomez, Berluti and Aubercy.<br />

These were great experiences but there was<br />

still one more person he had to meet and thus<br />

he went to Milan where he met my dear friend<br />

IN THIS ARTICLE WE TELL<br />

THE STORy OF MASTER<br />

mASARu okuyAmA WHO,<br />

AS WELL AS WORKING FROM<br />

HONG KONG FOR AN EXACTING<br />

CLIENTELE, STILL HAS<br />

A DREAM - TO OPEN<br />

RETAIL POINTS ALL OVER<br />

THE WORLD BUT STILL MAKE<br />

THE SHOES WITH HIS VERy<br />

OWN HANDS.<br />

47

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mASARu okuyAmA’S<br />

HEADQUARTERS ARE<br />

IN HONG KONG BUT<br />

HE WAS BORN IN JApAn.<br />

HE TRAINED IN tokyo, pARiS<br />

AND milAn. HIS TEACHERS<br />

INCLUDED john loBB,<br />

CoRthAy, mASSARo, dimitRi<br />

gomEz, Anthony dEloS,<br />

BERluti, xAviER AuBERCy<br />

AND fRECCiA BEStEtti.<br />

48<br />

Freccia Bestetti whose professional journey had<br />

been somewhat similar. Riccardo advised him<br />

to return to Tokyo and gain his experience there<br />

working for families and friends who would be<br />

able to understand his talent. In the meantime<br />

he married a woman from Hong Kong and<br />

soon returned to his starting point. The new<br />

challenge was to make made to measure shoes<br />

in Hong Kong. After a few years of pure start<br />

up, in 2010 he opened his first laboratory-shop<br />

with two trainee cobbler employees to pass<br />

the Okuyama thinking to. His public of fans is<br />

varied but it is mainly Asian businessmen and<br />

Englishmen who know the made to measure<br />

shoe tradition well. The combination of French<br />

elegance and the simplicity, dignity and rigour<br />

of the English is the key to his special shoes for<br />

truly special clients. For some of these he has<br />

made a few really creative shoes which have<br />

given him the chance to open up the way to<br />

experimentation.<br />

But Masaru still had another dream - to open up<br />

49

---

50<br />

HE OPENED HIS FIRST<br />

LABORATORy IN 2010.<br />

TODAy HE HAS TWO TRAINEE<br />

COBBLERS WORKING FOR HIM.<br />

retail points all over the world whilst still making<br />

the shoes with his very own hands. Such statements<br />

are music to our ears at Bespoke and we<br />

are sure that the firmament of great cobblers<br />

will add his name to its hall of fame alongside<br />

those of people like Xavier Aubercy, Dimitri<br />

Gomez and Anthony Delos.<br />

www.masaruokuyama.com<br />

51

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52<br />

TO BREAK THE RULES,<br />

YOU MUST FIRST MASTER<br />

THEM.<br />

PER ROMPERE LE REGOLE BISOGNA DOMINARLE.<br />

EVOLUZIONE DEL RIVOLUZIONARIO OROLOGIO SPORTIVO<br />

DI LUSSO AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK, IL ROYAL OAK<br />

OFFSHORE POSSIEDE UN’ESTETICA EMOZIONANTE E<br />

RISOLUTA CHE TRASFORMA GLI ELEMENTI FUNZIONALI IN<br />

ICONE DEL DESIGN.<br />

CON IL SUO DIAMETRO DI 44 MILLIMETRI, L’OFFSHORE<br />

DISPONE DI UNA PRESENZA UNICA E PUNTA CON DECISIONE<br />

ALLA POTENZA E ALLA PRESTAZIONE. CARATTERISTICA<br />

UNICA, LE SUPERFICI PIÙ ESPOSTE AGLI URTI SONO<br />

REALIZZATE IN MATERIALI ALTAMENTE INNOVATIVI. QUI<br />

L’INCONFONDIBILE LUNETTA OTTAGONALE E I PULSANTI<br />

SONO IN CERAMICA AD ALTA DENSITÀ – INSCALFIBILE E<br />

SETTE VOLTE PIÙ DURA DELL’ACCIAIO.<br />

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE RE<br />

IN ORO ROSA E CERAMICA. .<br />

CRONOGRAFO.<br />

Via Mazzini, ang. Via Dogana 3<br />

20123 Milano<br />

Tel. 02 805 65 21<br />

welcome@luigiverga.it<br />

www.luigiverga.it

---

By fRAnk night<br />

54<br />

ASCARi BiCyClES MODELS<br />

ARE MADE ENTIRELy By HAND<br />

IN ITS WORKSHOP,<br />

IN poRtlAnd, oREgon.<br />

Ascari Bicycles<br />

This refreshing tale begins with one idea and two<br />

men: the designer Helio Ascari and the frame<br />

builder Gary Mathis. The place is Portland, Oregon.<br />

The idea is to handcraft one of a kind objects that<br />

are beautiful to look at and to use. The impulse is<br />

to apply one’s knowledge and skills to the world<br />

of cycling. The method involves a healthy dose of<br />

creativity combined with classic elegance.<br />

“At Ascari Bicycles - the two founders proudly<br />

point out - we design and build our bikes. All our<br />

frames, forks and stems are made by us in the USA.<br />

By using time proven (techniques) and only the<br />

best materials we are able to build the finest bicycles<br />

on the planet. Along with the details like<br />

our logos and head badges, the dropout faces<br />

and serial number badges are brazed in copper<br />

and brass. They are works of art themselves. With a<br />

jeweler’s touch that brings out the luxury to compliment<br />

the time and dedication built into each<br />

Ascari. The Ascari name is synonymous to Formula<br />

One auto racing, we hope that Ascari Bicycles will<br />

be also a synonym of the enduring legacies of<br />

fashion and cycling.”<br />

Helio Ascari has loved cycling since he was 8, age<br />

in wich he found an old bike in the basement<br />

and put it back into working condition, falling in<br />

love with its simplicity, practicality and elegance<br />

in the process. Later he amassed considerable ex-<br />

hElio ASCARi AND gARy<br />

mAthiS FOUNDED ASCARi<br />

BiCyClES IN 2011.<br />

THE FIRST IS A DESIGNER,<br />

THE SECOND A FRAME BUILDER.<br />

55

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THE TWO AMERICAN<br />

PARTNERS PAy CLOSE<br />

ATTENTION TO EVERy DETAIL.<br />

THE MODEL SHOWN<br />

WAS REALIzED IN PARTNERSHIP<br />

WITH RAlph lAuREn.<br />

56<br />

perience in the fashion world, from Brazil to New<br />

york. Gary Mathis has instead always been up to<br />

his ears in bicycles, from repairs to teaching. In<br />

fact, it was during one of his classes that he met<br />

his current coworker. Helio is the dreamer, Mathis<br />

makes them real. The two have set off on this adventure,<br />

made of a host of details, both vintage<br />

and modern, driven by the desire to pedal off on<br />

one’s own bicycle.<br />

www.ascaribicycles.com<br />

HELIO ASCARI FIRST BECAME<br />

FASCINATED By BICyCLES<br />

AT THE AGE OF 8,<br />

RE-ASSEMBLING AN OLD<br />

BIKE HE HAD FOUND<br />

IN HIS BASEMENT.<br />

ON THIS PAGE,<br />

THE “ASCARi CoppER<br />

ExECutivE”.<br />

57

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By RomAno toRRE BiAnCA<br />

vElo - 2nd GEAR BICyCLE<br />

CULTURE AND STyLE<br />

PUBLISHED By GESTALTEN<br />

AND EDITED By SVEN EHMANN<br />

AND ROBERT KLANTEN.<br />

THE FORMAT IS 24 X 28 CM<br />

WITH 256 PAGES.<br />

58<br />

Velo - 2nd Gear<br />

An exaltation of the bicycle as an environmentally<br />

friendly mean of transport, a companion<br />

in adventure and travel, a veritable style of life.<br />

Over 250 pages, the book Velo - 2nd Gear: Bicycle<br />

Culture and Style tells the stories of a large number<br />

of bicycles: beautiful, handcrafted, experimental,<br />

vintage, classic, artistic and much more.<br />

And, between one cycle ride and another, the<br />

book’s texts and photos include a great many<br />

accessories both extravagant and technological<br />

and also a number of shops and authentic two<br />

wheel boutiques. The book makes abundantly<br />

clear that contemporary bicycle culture is more<br />

alive and well than ever before. The pubblication<br />

celebrates its healthy, environmentally-friendly,<br />

discerning, and slightly obsessive scenes and<br />

their protagonists. It shows why, for a young<br />

generation, bicycles have now replaced cars as<br />

the vehicles that best express their identity.<br />

As the book’s authors say: “choosing to ride a particular<br />

bike conveys an attitude and a way of life.<br />

Velo-2nd Gear illuminates and celebrates contemporary<br />

bicycle culture’s diverse scenes. From<br />

classic racing bikes to high-tech speed machines,<br />

from rough fixies to fashionable city cruisers and<br />

hardworking cargo bikes, this book showcases<br />

today’s most outstanding and unusual bicycles<br />

and their riders. Velo-2nd Gear explores these<br />

diverse bicycle scenes and reveals their histories,<br />

relationships, and insightful details. Alongside its<br />

59

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60<br />

61

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BICyCLES HAVE ALWAyS BEEN<br />

MORE THAN A LIFESTyLE<br />

AND THE MODEL WE CHOOSE<br />

TO BUy AND RIDE REFLECTS<br />

OUR PERSONALITy.<br />

THERE IS NOTHING ACCIDENTAL<br />

ABOUT THE FACT<br />

THAT MORE AND MORE<br />

BICyCLES ARE BEING HAND<br />

CRAFTED TO SATISFy<br />

OUR EVERy WISH.<br />

62<br />

presentation of especially attractive and unusual<br />

bicycles, the book documents how riders’ accessories<br />

and styles vary just as widely as the bikes’<br />

tyres and other equipment. It explains how each<br />

scene cultivates its own distinct codes through<br />

the choice of certain jerseys, caps, or bags or by<br />

visiting specific events or key establishments.<br />

The examples in Velo-2nd Gear span the globe.<br />

Tours in traditional costumes and on historical<br />

paths in Belgium or Italy are not only appealing<br />

as athletic challenges, but also as adventures<br />

for cosmopolitan travellers. In urban centres at<br />

night, bicycle messengers hold races on city<br />

streets. Specialised bike boutiques focus on details<br />

such as customised paint jobs.<br />

Frame builders in Oregon, Paris, or southern<br />

Germany create highly coveted bikes tailored to<br />

individuals or in very limited editions with long<br />

waiting lists”.<br />

www.gestalten.com<br />

86’ domino<br />

A Riva is a Riva. Always.<br />

a Ferretti Group brand<br />

www.riva-yacht.com<br />

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yesterday today<br />

propaganda3.it

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64<br />

Style and power<br />

Unconventional elegance<br />

Preppy Story: an IVy culture life style<br />

fABRizio dE’ mARiniS<br />

Style and power. The difference between an English<br />

lord from an old family, an Italian aristocrat,<br />

an old school dandy and an American president<br />

like John F. Kennedy can be sigificant but they all<br />

share certain fundamental codes. Unintentional<br />

sophistication is entirely apparent. Lord Brummell<br />

could wander into one of the eight temples of<br />

the Ivy League College Tradition without anyone<br />

IN THE AMERICA OF THE GREAT<br />

PROTEST MOVEMENTS<br />

ivy StylE BECAME AN EMBLEM<br />

IN THE FIGHT AGAINST<br />

THE SySTEM.<br />

JUST LIKE THE ELITE<br />

pREppy StylE OF THE GREAT<br />

EAST COAST UNIVERSITIES<br />

IT TRANSFORMED ITSELF INTO<br />

A NEW LANGUAGE<br />

- AND NOT JUST OF<br />

POWER - WHICH WAS SUCH<br />

A FEATURE OF THE UNITED<br />

STATES IN THE MID TWENTIETH<br />

CENTURy AND ENDED UP<br />

CENTRE STAGE IN FASHION<br />

TRENDS.<br />

IT IS A LONG WAVE WHICH<br />

PERSONIFIED AN ERA.<br />

IT LEAD TO NEW STyLES,<br />

A DIFFERENT VISION<br />

OF ELEGANCE, OF BEING<br />

FASHIONABLE, TAKING ON ELITE<br />

SyMBOLS AND HABITS.<br />

LEFT, THE AUSTERE ENTRANCE<br />

OF hARvARd univERSity.<br />

ON THIS PAGE A HISTORICAL<br />

AND CLASSIC IMAGE<br />

OF RAlph lAuREn STyLE.<br />

NEXT PAGE: STUDENTS<br />

PLAyING FOOTBALL NEAR<br />

DUNSTER HOUSE AT hARvARd<br />

(1966).<br />

SOME OF THE IMAGES PRESENT<br />

IN THIS ARTICLE WERE SELECTED<br />

FROM THE FOLLOWING<br />

PUBLICATIONS:<br />

“THE IVy LEAGUE” (ASSOULINE),<br />

“IVy STyLE” (FASHION INSTITUTE<br />

OF TECNOLOGy NEW yORK),<br />

“PREPPy: CULTIVATING IVy<br />

STyLE” (RIzzOLI NEW yORK),<br />

“NEW ENGLAND By TOMMy<br />

HILFIGER” (RIzzOLI NEW yORK),<br />

“ICONS OF MEN’S STyLE”<br />

(MONDADORI ELECTA).<br />

65

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66 67

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68<br />

stopping him and wander out again in the same<br />

way without anyone noticing him.<br />

And this because the elegance of strong contrasts<br />

and marked differences, but also obsolete<br />

and non apparent frugality, worn almost by<br />

chance, marked out an era and is coming decidedly<br />

back into fashion. The relaxed elegance of<br />

JFK - one of the icons of American democracy -<br />

was strongly in juxtaposition with the Anglican<br />

rigour of a Hoover, of a Truman or an Eisenhower,<br />

also in their visions of society and power. In fact,<br />

in the America of the great protests, it became<br />

an emblem to contrast with constituted power.<br />

Just like the elite preppy style of the great East<br />

Coast universities, it transformed itself into a new<br />

language and not just of power which was such<br />

a feature of the United States in the mid twentieth<br />

century and ended up centre stage in fashion<br />

trends. It is a long wave which personified an era.<br />

It constructed new styles, a different vision of el-<br />

egance, of being fashionable, wearing elite symbols<br />

and habits.<br />

the olympus of the eight colleges<br />

According to the New york Times today, a new<br />

fashion is sweeping through American youth.<br />

That of their fathers and their more fashionable<br />

grandfathers 40 years ago. Buttoned up colours<br />

are everywhere. The faded pinks of Nantucket<br />

Red trousers has become as common as khaki<br />

once was, Sperry Top-Sider deck shoes have invaded<br />

the walkways, polo players and Lacoste<br />

crocodile are everywhere. It is Ivy Style which is<br />

returning determinedly to the scene even in Europe<br />

and in Japan - all versions of preppy style<br />

are fashionable once more. The book Take Ivy, a<br />

collection of photos taken at American campuses<br />

in 1965 by Teruyoshi Hayashida is beautiful and<br />

almost impossible to track down.<br />

White’s Boots, Russell and Duluth Pack with En-<br />

gineered Garments (founded by Japanese Daiki<br />

Suzuki) are high fashion in the country of the<br />

Soleil Levant and the book was commissioned by<br />

another Japanese, Kensuke Ishizu. The designer<br />

who was the first to appreciate the potential of<br />

the preppy style and founded Van Jacket, a huge<br />

success with Japanese teenagers at the time, It‘s a<br />

Ralph Lauren ante-litteram. Preppy is a name and<br />

a lifestyle - with clear aesthetically and unconventional<br />

features - which derives from preparatory<br />

school, the preparatory private schools designed<br />

for the new generations of the American upper<br />

middle class as they got ready to enter the famous<br />

eight colleges of the Ivy League, the name<br />

that was once given to the sports tournaments<br />

between colleges with the ivy emblem symbolising<br />

tradition and great age as it grew on the walls<br />

of the dormitories. Designation which is a heraldic<br />

guarantee of the campuses, where rich and<br />

often very European and well-connected Ameri-<br />

can families send their children to be educated.<br />

These, obviously, are the eight most prestigious<br />

universities of the American pantheon: Harvard,<br />

yale, Princeton, Brown, Dartmouth, Columbia,<br />

University of Pennsylvania and Cornell.<br />

from francis Scott fitzgerald to lady diana<br />

It’s a long and fascinating story which would be<br />

better to tell from the beginning and which, as<br />

well as icons such as Kennedy, includes figures<br />

of the caliber of the Duke of Windsor, Steve Mc-<br />

Queen, Paul Newman and Miles Davis, Anthony<br />

Perkins, Montgomery Clift, Charles Prince of<br />

Wales, Sean Connery and designers who have relaunched<br />

the Ivy fashion such as Ralph Lauren, J.<br />

Crew, J. McLaughlin, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Bastian<br />

and Thom Browne. Active in New york from<br />

the ‘90s were Marc Jacobs and Luella Bartley. The<br />

Big apple, in particular, is still today the capital of<br />

Ivy Style and of North Eastern Culture with the<br />

JOHN, ‘RELAXED ELANCE’,<br />

AN ICON OF AMERICAN<br />

DEMOCRACy, HE DISTINGUISHED<br />

HIMSELF FROM HOOVER’S<br />

OR TRUMAN’S<br />

AND EiSEnhowER’S ANGLICAN<br />

AND PROTESTANT RIGOUR,<br />

IN HIS DIFFERENT VISION<br />

OF SOCIETy AND POWER TOO.<br />

ON THE FACING PAGE<br />

THE WHOLE kEnnEdy FAMILy<br />

IN 1948 AT THANKSGIVING<br />

WITH PAT WEARING<br />

A ‘LETTERMAN SWEATER’<br />

WITH AN H FOR HARVARD ON IT.<br />

ABOVE, SOME HISTORIC ICONS<br />

OF PREPPy STyLE.<br />

FROM LEFT StEvE mCquEEn,<br />

duStin hoffmAn<br />

IN THE GRADUATE<br />

AND BRookE ShiEldS<br />

(PRINCETON UNIVERSITy).<br />

69

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70<br />

headquarters of brands such as J. Press, Brooks<br />

Brothers, Daniel Cremieux, Ralph Lauren and Kate<br />

Spade New york. The Ivy phenomenon today has<br />

also been relaunched by brands such as Brooks<br />

Brothers , Vineyard Vines, Elizabeth McKay, Danile<br />

Cremieux, Kate Spade, Altea, Arden, Miu Miu,<br />

Burberry, Prada, Lacoste, Nantucket Brand, Smarthers<br />

& Branson and Tucker Blair. Legends such as<br />

Adlai Stevenson (studied at Princeton), Katharine<br />

Hepburn (Bryn Mawr), Franklin Delano Roosevelt<br />

(Harvard), Grace Kelly (Stevens School) and Caroline<br />

Kennedy (Harvard) were all great exponents<br />

of Ivy Style and the preppy look. But the preppy<br />

par excellence, the model, is Francis Ford Fitzgerald<br />

who naturally studied at Princeton and, apart<br />

from writing masterpieces like The Great Gatsby,<br />

The Beautiful and the Damned and Tender is the<br />

Night, is also famous for his custom of wearing<br />

old Brooks jackets with pink shirts and bow ties<br />

which - according to his faithful friend Buff Cobb -<br />

pREppy IS A NAME<br />

AND A LIFESTyLE<br />

WITH A CLEAR AESTHETIC,<br />

UNCONVENTIONAL IDENTITy<br />

WHICH COMES FROM THE TERM<br />

PREPARATORy SCHOOL<br />

WHICH THE OFFSPRING<br />

OF THE AMERICAN UPPER MIDDLE<br />

CLASS WERE SENT TO TO PREPARE<br />

THEM TO GO TO THE FAMOUS<br />

Eight ivy lEAguE CollEgES,<br />

A NAME WHICH WAS ONCE GIVEN<br />

TO THE SPORTS TOURNAMENTS<br />

BETWEEN COLLEGES<br />

MARKED OUT By THE IVy<br />

(A SyMBOL OF TRADITION AND AGE)<br />

WHICH GREW ON THE WALLS<br />

OF THE DORMITORIES.<br />

ON THESE TWO PAGES, IMAGES<br />

AND SyMBOLS OF THE CAMPUSES.<br />

OBVIOUSLy THESE ARE THE EIGHT<br />

MOST PRESTIGIOUS CATHEDRALS<br />

OF KNOWLEDGE IN AMERICA:<br />

hARvARd, yAlE, pRinCEton,<br />

BRown, dARtmouth, ColumBiA,<br />

THE UNIVERSITy OF pEnnSylvAniA<br />

AND CoRnEll.<br />

71

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TODAy, ACCORDING<br />

TO THE nEw yoRk TIMES<br />

A NEW FASHION<br />

IS SWEEPING AMERICAN yOUTH.<br />

IT IS A STRONG ivy StylE<br />

COMEBACK AND IT IS FASHIONABLE<br />

IN EuRopE AND jApAn TOO<br />

IN A RANGE OF PREPPy VERSIONS.<br />

THE BOOK TAKE IVy IS VERy<br />

BEAUTIFUL BUT ALMOST<br />

IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND,<br />

A COLLECTION OF PHOTOGRAPHS<br />

TAKEN IN 1965 By tERuyoShi<br />

hAyAShidA ON AMERICAN<br />

CAMPUSES SHOWN<br />

ON THESE PAGES.<br />

THE BOOK WAS COMMISSIONED<br />

By JAPANESE kEnSukE iShizu,<br />

AN ANTE LITTERAM RAlph lAuREn<br />

AND THE DESIGNER<br />

WHO FIRST REALISE PREPPy’S PO-<br />

TENTIAL AND FOUNDED<br />

VAN JACKET, A HUGELy<br />

SUCCESSFUL BRAND AMONGST<br />

JAPANESE TEENAGERS, TOGETHER<br />

WITH WHITE’S BOOTS, RUSSELL ,<br />

DULUTH PACK AND ENGINEERED<br />

GARMENTS FOUNDED<br />

By JAPANESE dAiki Suzuky.<br />

72<br />

made him look like a mix between Charles Baudelaire<br />

and Lucius Beebe. Great female icons of Ivy<br />

or Preppy style are Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly,<br />

Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Lady Diana and<br />

personalities from the New york social scene of<br />

the twentieth century such as Gloria Guinness,<br />

Babe Paley, Slim Keith and C. z. Guest are reference<br />

points for many well-known fashion stylists.<br />

i have a dream<br />

With Chet Baker in their hearts, Teddy Edwards<br />

sax at full volume, Bill Evans, Quincy Jones and<br />

the Graduate - the cult film of the 1967 establish-<br />

ment starring Dustin Hoffman - as icons of the<br />

new romanticism while Martin Luther King had<br />

America trembling in the squares with: “I have a<br />

dream!”. This was the America of the not always<br />

peaceful great marches which marked this era.<br />

The great universities were the crucible - in both<br />

the revolts and the traditions - of the America of<br />

the future. Just like in Berkeley, California or New<br />

york’s Columbia University. It was from these that<br />

the influences, trends and fashions filtered out,<br />

and this is how it was for Ivy Style. Preppy Style<br />

began to make itself felt at the end of the ‘40s and<br />

the beginning of the ‘50s as a distinctive, eccen-<br />

73

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GREAT EXPONENTS OF THE IVy STyLE<br />

AND PREPPy LOOK INCLUDE LEGENDS<br />

SUCH AS AdlAi StEvEnSon (WHO STUDIED<br />

AT PRINCETON) kAthARinE hEpBuRn<br />

(BRyN MAWR), fRAnklin dElAno<br />

RooSEvElt (HARVARD), gRACE kElly<br />

(STEVENS SCHOOL) AND CARolinE kEnnEdy<br />

(HARVARD). BUT THE SyMBOL PAR<br />

EXCELLENCE OF PREPPy STyLE<br />

AND THE MODEL FOR INSPIRATION<br />

IS fRAnCiS SCott fitzgERAld<br />

(WHO NATURALLy STUDIED<br />

AT PRINCETON) AND A NUMBER<br />

OF ACTORS AND POLITICIANS.<br />

STARTING FROM THE TOP,<br />

john john kEnnEdy, RyAn o’nEAl<br />

AND Ali mCgRAw IN THE FILM LOVE STORy<br />

SET IN hARvARd, Anthony pERkinS.<br />

ON THE FACING PAGE, FROM<br />

THE TOP STARTING FROM THE LEFT,<br />

OTHER PREPPy SyMBOLS jACk lEmmon,<br />

RoBERt REdfoRd, montgomERy Clift<br />

AND jAmES StEwARt.<br />

74<br />

tric and original clothing style in the campuses<br />

of the Ivy League. It also became unconventional<br />

and anti conformist. J. Press represents the quintessence<br />

of this style together with the Brooks<br />

Brothers, both of whom were pioneers of preppy<br />

fashion with shops in almost all of the Ivy League<br />

universities including Harvard, Princeton and<br />

yale. Characteristic in this period were echoes<br />

of British style customs such as a combination of<br />

clothing items from horse riding, sailing, yachting,<br />

hunting, rowing and lacrosse, tennis and rugby in<br />

a creative and, at the same time, profane, synthesis.<br />

Shoes from the stable, hunting and manual<br />

labour, like American L.L. Bean, became items to<br />

show off in living rooms and classrooms like the<br />

recent restyling of the Madewell brand. Pastels<br />

and glaring colours were brought together in Lilly<br />

Pulitzer’s creations while brands such as Lacoste,<br />

Izod and Dooney & Bourke came to the fore in<br />

the ‘80s. Female preppy style was influenced by<br />

designers such as Perry Ellis and Oleg Cassini.<br />

100% Cotton, wool and cashmere<br />

But the Ivy sack suit has very specific characteristics.<br />

The jacket shoulders are natural with very<br />

little padding (in its best examples it is similar to<br />

the ‘destructured’ Neapolitan shoulder shirt) and<br />

a smooth front with none of the seams which<br />

are called ‘pinces’ in Italy and ‘darts’ in English<br />

language countries. This means that the jacket<br />

hangs straight down without any style or line<br />

at the waist and on the back there is a central<br />

slit with a characteristic ‘hooked’ construction.<br />

The jacket is always single breasted with three<br />

buttons though in the past some were double<br />

breasted, and almost always - at least in the best<br />

examples - stretched to two with the first buttonhole<br />

at the top hidden in the lapel. There are<br />

often two small buttons on the sleeves.<br />

Jackets. These require some care. From the typically<br />

navy blue double breasted jacket - best with<br />

gold buttons - to the classic slim fit two buttoned<br />

jacket (sometimes in pastel variants such as mint<br />

green) to winter tweed, dinner jackets (sometimes<br />

even white) and contrasting stripes, preppy<br />

jackets have conquered the Gucci, Mulberry,<br />

Ralph Lauren and Dolce & Gabbana catwalks.><br />

There’s something for all tastes but not for all<br />

budgets. Jackets must be perfectly cut and excellent<br />

quality so keep away from cheaper variants<br />

which risk giving an ‘I would have if I could have’<br />

impression. Buy just one but make sure it’s a good<br />

one. Otherwise it’s better to go vintage.<br />

At first glance you might think that dressing<br />

preppy means dressing expensively but this<br />

is not necessarily true because what makes a<br />

preppy dress style is not its cost but its elegance,<br />

the co-ordinated colours and cuts which must be<br />

75

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76<br />

smooth and clean. Fabric quality is fundamental<br />

so you must go for 100% cotton, wool and cashmere.<br />

As far as colours are concerned, the best are<br />

bright and cheerful like apple green, pastel pink,<br />

blue, navy blue, white and red expertly matched.<br />

Trousers are free of darts and flat front. Flaps are<br />

almost always there and, according to the era,<br />

trousers were tighter or looser fitting and shorter<br />

or longer over the shoes. Braces are fine but<br />

worked or smooth leather or woven fibre belts<br />

are even better.<br />

year 1910, Savile Row<br />

But how did Ivy style come about? It was a parallel<br />

evolution from the classic modern suit. The nineteenth<br />

and early twentieth century ‘sack’ suit -<br />

with natural shoulders, a smooth, unmarked front<br />

and dartless trousers - moved into the Savile Row<br />

tailors in around 1910. It was the symbol of the<br />

technical revolution which produced the modern<br />

jacket. In the United States, still far off and rural<br />

at the time, fashion arrived late and the old cut<br />

hung on for many years until the advent of the<br />

1920s and 1930s styles, heavy, loose fitting and<br />

severe. New york Brooks Brothers, famous for<br />

their lines, launched jacket and suit ranges called<br />

Sack No. 1. Slim line elegance began to develop<br />

in which men and women were flat stomached<br />

and athletic, forged in competitive activities on<br />

campus. Sack suits were very popular at American<br />

universities which were were getting their supplies<br />

in other temples of Ivy clothing in university<br />

cities such as J.Press, Langrock and The Andover.<br />

The reason for this success depended on the fact<br />

THE BIG APPLE IS STILL<br />

THE CAPITAL OF ivy StylE<br />

AND OF NORTHEASTERN<br />

CULTURE IN A SPECIAL<br />

WAy AS WELL AS<br />

THE HEADQUARTERS<br />

OF BRANDS SUCH AS j. pRESS,<br />

BRookS BRothERS,<br />

dAniEl CREmiEux, RAlph<br />

lAuREn AND kAtE SpAdE.<br />

PREPPy STyLE BEGAN<br />

TO MAKE ITS PRESENCE FELT<br />

IN A BIG WAy FROM THE END<br />

OF THE 1940S AND THE EARLy<br />

1950S AS A DISTINCTIVE,<br />

EXTRAVAGANT AND ORIGINAL<br />

DRESS STyLE IN THE IVy LEAGUE<br />

CAMPUSES. BUT IT WAS ALSO<br />

A WAy OF BEING<br />

UNCONVENTIONAL<br />

AND GOING AGAINST<br />

THE GRAIN. J.pRESS IS<br />

THE QUINTESSENCE OF THIS<br />

STyLE TOGETHER WITH BRookS<br />

BRothERS, BOTH OF WHOM<br />

WERE PREPPy FASHION<br />

PIONEERS WITH SHOPS, EVEN<br />

IN THE 1920S, AT hARvARd,<br />

pRinCEton AND yAlE.<br />

77

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78<br />

SPORT AND AN ACTIVE LIFE ARE<br />

CHARACTERISTICS OF ivy StylE<br />

AS A STATUS SyMBOL AND MARK<br />

OF BELONGING TOO, BUT ABOVE<br />

ALL, AS AN EMBLEM OF RIVALRy<br />

BETWEEN CAMPUSES.<br />

ECHOES OF BRITISH STyLE<br />

MANNERISMS WERE A FEATURE<br />

OF THIS PERIOD WITH A BLEND<br />

OF CLOTHING FROM THE WORLDS<br />

OF HORSE RIDING, SAILING,<br />

yACHTING, HUNTING, ROWING,<br />

LACROSSE, TENNIS AND RUGBy<br />

IN A CREATIVE AND SOMETIMES<br />

BLASPHEMOUS MIXTURE.<br />

SHOES FROM THE STABLE,<br />

HUNTING AND MANUAL LABOUR<br />

LIKE AMERICAN L.L. BEAN<br />

WHICH BECAME EXPENSIVE<br />

CLOTHING TO SHOW OFF<br />

IN LIVING ROOMS<br />

AND CLASSROOMS<br />

LIKE THE RECENT REWORKING<br />

OF THE BRAND MADEWELL.<br />

OVER THE NEXT FEW PAGES,<br />

A COLLECTION OF JAPANESE<br />

MAGAzINE COVERS CELEBRATING<br />

PREPPy STyLE. A LIBRARy<br />

AT CoRnEll UNIVERSITy<br />

AND IMAGES OF yAlE.<br />

79

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80<br />

that these jackets were soft and rather shapeless<br />

and thus very comfortable to wear with a youthful<br />

and informal look to them.<br />

from the campuses to the halls of power<br />

Students became extremely rigorous selectors<br />

of clothing items which were encompassed into<br />

this style such as ‘button down’ shirts, penny<br />

loafer moccasins and Bass weejuns, Peter Pan<br />

high collars, Tab (with button ribbons behind<br />

ties), rounded collars, white suede saddle shoes,<br />

socks in Scottish wool and the famous polo and<br />

trench coats. The best-known brands at the<br />

time which are still on the market were Gucci,<br />

81

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A RANGE OF PREPPy SyMBOLS<br />

AND ICONS FROM TOP LEFT,<br />

MADRAS SHIRTS AND BRookS<br />

BRothERS JACKETS, l.l BEAn<br />

SHOES AND SURF BOARDS<br />

WITH IVy STyLE BRAND NAMES.<br />

STUDENTS ARE EXTREMELy<br />

RIGOROUS ARBITERS<br />

OF THE CLOTHING THAT BECAME<br />

PART OF THE STyLE SUCH AS<br />

BUTTON DOWN SHIRTS,<br />

pEnny loAfER MODEL<br />

MOCCASINS (THE NEXT PAGES)<br />

AND BASS WEEJUNS,<br />

PETER PAN COLLARS,<br />

TAB OR ROUNDED MODEL,<br />

SADDLE SHOES IN WHITE<br />

CHAMOIS, SCOTTISH WOOL<br />

SOCKS AND THE FAMOUS<br />

POLO AND TRENCH COATS.<br />

82<br />

Cole-Haan, Alden, Winthrop, Florsheim, Sperry<br />

Top-Sider, Clark’s and Lotus. Today Armani, Car<br />

Shoe, Timberland and Tod’s are Ivy Style trend<br />

setters. Having broken out of the campuses into<br />

the world of the professions, for new graduates<br />

Ivy dress sense became a sign of distinction, of<br />

where you had studied and a symbol of power<br />

and belonging and the retail temples became<br />

Brooks Brothers, J. Press and, until the 1940s, the<br />

university chain of shops called Chipp.<br />

the golden ages: 1920 and 1954-1967<br />

In the course of its long history the Ivy style was,<br />

initially, a niche phenomenon concentrated primarily<br />

in the cities of the North East coast of the<br />

United States. In two historical periods, however,<br />

it broke out of its tight circles and became a mass<br />

movement. The first was around 1920 and the<br />

second was the period which has gone down<br />

in history as the Ivy Fashion Cycle between 1954<br />

and 1967. In these years the Ivy League became<br />

PRINCETON STUDENTS, FROM TOP<br />

LEFT, HISTORIC BRANDS SUCH AS<br />

j.SimonS AND pAul StuARt.<br />

TWO CHARACTERISTIC IVy SACK<br />

SUIT JACKETS WITH NATURAL<br />

SHOULDERS AND VERy LITTLE<br />

PADDING SIMILAR<br />

TO THE ‘DESTRUCTURED<br />

NEAPOLITAN’ STyLE. PREPPy<br />

FATHER WITH HIS DAUGHTER<br />

AT yALE. ON THE NEXT PAGES IVy<br />

STyLE MANNERISMS, BRANDS,<br />

STyLISTS AND EMBLEMS.<br />

83

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84<br />

the style and emblem of a whole nation and of a<br />

generation which identified with the new American<br />

dream and the sack suit became a must in<br />

many great fashion houses.<br />

Preppy dressers paid particular attention to<br />

detail. Patterned socks, as we have said, were<br />

fundamental but other accessories such as ties<br />

(regimental or paisley), bow ties (also tartan or<br />

polka dot), braces (plain or patterned), hats (the<br />

characteristic golf beret), gloves (patterned and<br />

85

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86<br />

chic vintage leather fingerless), pocket-handkerchiefs<br />

and foulards should not be overlooked either.<br />

For women hairbands were a must as were<br />

Tory Burch shoes and polos. We’ll start with polos<br />

and not randomly because preppy styles were in-<br />

spired, among other influences, by tennis outfits.<br />

It follows that polos were the item to start with<br />

for a perfect preppy look. Lacoste, Ralph Lauren<br />

or Fred Perry (according to schools of sophistication),<br />

bright colours either plain or coloured<br />

87

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88<br />

stripes to be worn with the obligatory cardigan<br />

over the shoulders, under a blazer or sleeveless<br />

gilet in a diamond pattern of course. Polos were<br />

wardrobe must haves. Rugby polos were also<br />

popular with broad stripes and also long sleeved<br />

to be worn with another polo or shirt.<br />

Shirts were button down. There’s no need to<br />

point out that shirts had to be long sleeved and<br />

could be rolled up but not beyond the elbow<br />

to avoid the “boor” effect. The most improbable<br />

colours such as canary yellow, caramel pink and<br />

pistachio green were conceded as were perfect<br />

nova check patterns and Ben Sherman stripes.<br />

Cacharel style Vichy checks also came back into<br />

fashion together with oriental style paisley patterns<br />

as well as the unmissable Madras for trousers<br />

and Bermuda shorts too. Trousers. With<br />

perfect creases, cotton, tartan or Prince of Wales,<br />

checked or tartan, they had to stop at the ankle<br />

as put forward by Dior, Lanvin and yves Saint Laurent<br />

in order to give a sophisticated touch. Turn<br />

ups were obligatory at all times, on Bermuda<br />

ChEt BAkER IN OUR HEARTS,<br />

SAX LIKE tEddy EdwARdS<br />

AT FULL VOLUME, Bill EvAnS,<br />

quinCy jonES<br />

AND THE GRADUATE, A 1967<br />

CULT FILM OF THE REVOLT<br />

AGAINST THE ESTABLISHMENT,<br />

WITH duStin hoffmAn,<br />

AN ICON OF NEW<br />

ROMANTICISM AT THE TIME<br />

THAT mARtin luthER king<br />

MADE AMERICA TREMBLE<br />

IN THE SQUARES SHOUTING<br />

“I HAVE A DREAM!”.<br />

AND THE NOT ALWAyS PEACEFUL<br />

AMERICA OF THE GREAT BRAND<br />

NAMES WHICH LEFT<br />

THEIR MARK ON AN ERA.<br />

GREAT FEMALE CULTURE ICONS<br />

OF IVy STyLE, WOMEN SUCH AS<br />

AudREy hEpBuRn,<br />

gRACE kElly,<br />

jACquElinE kEnnEdy<br />

onASSiS, lAdy diAnA<br />

AND PERSONALITIES<br />

OF THE NEW yORK TWENTIETH<br />

CENTURy SCENE SUCH AS<br />

gloRiA guinnESS,<br />

BABE pAlEy, Slim kEith<br />

AND C. z. guESt,<br />

REFERENCE POINTS<br />

FOR MANy WELL KNOWN<br />

FASHION STyLISTS.<br />

89

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90<br />

91

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92<br />

shorts or long trousers, in this case to make socks<br />

visible which, if they were in diamond patterns,<br />

gave an additional touch of style to the whole<br />

look. The colours, as always, were as varied as<br />

possible- reds, bordeaux, peach, yellow and violet<br />

were allowed, patterns and materials were varied<br />

such as gingham, seersucker and ribbed velvet.<br />

jeans, no thanks<br />

It should be remembered that jeans are an unlikely<br />

item in a preppy wardrobe and are usually<br />

replaced with khaki trousers. Cable knit sweaters.<br />

Either gilet or cardigan, rigorously V-necked, the<br />

important thing is that the wool is cable knit like<br />

a cricket jumper. The cable fashion is universal<br />

and it is thus best to wear a cable knit cardigan<br />

whether you are aiming at the preppy look or<br />

not. Those made by Adidas and Topman are<br />

particularly warm and take account of the cheap<br />

alternatives (very Ivy if you play your cards right)<br />

in zara with buttons covered in leather which are<br />

attractive on T-shirts too. Old Shetlands in pastel<br />

or full colours are good with round necks alone<br />

or under jackets. And the vast range of gilets is<br />

unavoidable too in pastel colours or patterns.<br />

Europe: on vespas and lambrettas<br />

The Ivy Style phenomenon also had a European<br />

flipside with the Mods, known as the Absolute<br />

Beginners, who modelled themselves on the Ivy<br />

League look. Mod was not just a word but a culture,<br />

a lifestyle, a clothes style and fashion sense<br />

free of preconceived ideas following your own<br />

ideas and feelings, a totally English style which<br />

influenced not only 1960s London but still makes<br />

waves in Europe. Its status symbols included<br />

rigorously Italian scooters like Vespas and Lambrettas<br />

- often embellished with imaginative and<br />

bizarre mirrors and lights - Parka jackets with the<br />

Royal Air Force target on them. Musical phenomena<br />

such as The Who, Small Faces and the Beatles<br />

were also Mod. The focus was Carnaby Street.<br />

The Mod phenomenon was given a new boost<br />

at the end of the Seventies when the film Quadrophenia<br />

came out (1979 from the album from<br />

The Who which came out in 1973) and the success<br />

of other groups like Jam, Madness, Special,<br />

the legendary Blues Brothers and Oasis gave fresh<br />

impetus to this mass movement. Another trend<br />

deriving from Ivy is the London Sloane Ranger<br />

look - because it was centred around the Sloane<br />

Square neighbourhood in Chelsea - considered<br />

an amalgam of chic sophisticates from the aristocracy<br />

and upper middle class, a popular fashion<br />

and clothing movement which Lady Diana Spencer<br />

was part of before her marriage.<br />

IN THE COURSE OF ITS LONG<br />

HISTORy, IVy STyLE WAS,<br />

AT THE BEginning,<br />

A NICHE PHENOMENON,<br />

CONCENTRATED ABOVE ALL<br />

IN THE CITIES OF THE NORTH-WEST<br />

COAST OF THE UNITED STATES.<br />

IT SAW TWO PERIODS OF MASS<br />

POPULARITy, HOWEVER, WHEN<br />

IT MOVED OUTSIDE ITS CHARMED<br />

CIRCLE, THE FIRST AROUND 1920,<br />

AND A SECOND WHICH HAS<br />

GONE DOWN IN HISTORy AS<br />

THE IVy FASHION CyCLE BETWEEN<br />

1954 AND 1967. IN THESE yEARS<br />

THE IVy LEAGUE BECAME THE STyLE<br />

AND EMBLEM OF A WHOLE NATION<br />

AND A GENERATION WHICH<br />

IDENTIFIED WITH THE NEW<br />

AMERICAN DREAM, WHILE<br />

THE SACK SUIT BECAME<br />

A MUST IN MANy GREAT<br />

FASHION HOUSES.<br />

AND IT ARRIVED IN EUROPE<br />

TOO WITH PHENOMENA SUCH<br />

AS THE MODS.<br />

ON THE FACING PAGE,<br />

lAdy diAnA SPENCER BEFORE<br />

SHE MARRIED, AN EXPONENT<br />

OF THE LONDON SLOANE<br />

RANGER pREppy MOVEMENT.<br />

MODS ON VESPAS, ROWERS<br />

AT THE CAMPUS AND hACkEtt<br />

MODELS. HERE ON THE LEFT,<br />

AN IVy LEAGUE MASCOT,<br />

CAMPUSES.<br />

TOP, THE CANNES FESTIVAL<br />

POSTER THIS yEAR DEDICATED<br />

TO ANOTHER LEGENDARy PREPPy,<br />

pAul nEwmAn, KISSING<br />

HIS WIFE joAnnE woodwARd.<br />

THIS BLACK AND WHITE IMAGE<br />

ECHOES THE A NEW KIND<br />

OF LOVE POSTER By MELVILLE<br />

SHAVELSON WHICH CAME<br />

OUT EXACTLy 50 yEARS AGO.<br />

WOODWARD AND NEWMAN<br />

WERE MARRIED<br />

FOR 50 yEARS UNTIL<br />

THE ACTOR’S DEATH ON THE 26TH<br />

OF SEPTEMBER 2008.<br />

93

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Parmigiani,<br />

a true life in time<br />

By lApo quAgli (tExt And photoS)<br />

94<br />

It is a true privilege to be invited by Parmigiani to<br />

have a look at their products and visit the Montreux<br />

Jazz Festival. My journey through the soul of this<br />

brand begins with a dip in Lake Neuchatel. The<br />

water is freezing, even more than I expected. A couple<br />

of strokes are all it takes to clear my mind of the<br />

city, offices and concrete. I definitely made the right<br />

decision in staying in a hotel like the Palafitte. you<br />

come into your room and leave your world behind.<br />

you can dive directly out of your living room and<br />

this cold shower will take you into the Parmigiani<br />

world. I already know that I’m falling in love again.<br />

It’s always this way with Parmigiani. The evening<br />

I leave for the factory the rounded forms of Switzerland<br />

make time a pleasant travelling companion.<br />

There’s something about Michel Parmigiani’s<br />

work which reflects the calms and spontaneity of<br />

the country. The light and precision of the buildings<br />

meld with the gentle hills at the foot of austere<br />

mountains. The Manifattura di Parmigiani is a place<br />

to live in while you’re working, not a factory. There<br />

is nothing in the building which is not clear, lightfilled<br />

and full of windows. A stroll between the work<br />

benches gives you a feeling that you can perceive<br />

the personalities of the people working there and<br />

the noise of work in progress sounds like mechanical<br />

melodies composed to make movements precise.<br />

The founder of the company seems to have<br />

wanted to retrace the steps of his training and life of<br />

success in the company’s sectors. The heart of Parmigiani<br />

is the restoration workshop where he takes<br />

much of the inspiration for the future from pieces<br />

from the past. Like the pantograph hands which<br />

change length according to the irregular oval diam-<br />

THE ROOMS OF THE PALAFITTE<br />

ALLOW yOU TO LEAVE<br />

yOUR LIFE BEHIND.<br />

PRECISION INSTRUMENTS<br />

FOR RESTORING PERIOD<br />

MOVEMENTS.<br />

A TABLE CLOCK WITH<br />

THE ISLAMIC PERPETUAL<br />

CALENDAR.<br />

miChEl pARmigiAni<br />

CHATTING EASILy<br />

WITH ALL OF HIS GUESTS.<br />

95

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96<br />

THE COMPANy CEO,<br />

jEAn mARC jACot.<br />

A DETAIL OF THE DIAL<br />

OF THE TABLE CLOCK<br />

WITH ISLAMIC CALENDAR.<br />

THE PANTOGRAPH HANDS<br />

WHICH INSPIRED<br />

THE NEW RANGE<br />

OF OVALE WATCHES.<br />

eter of the dial. We are shown around the workshop<br />

by a very young watchmaker who has just restored<br />

two unique pieces from a Chinese collection, two<br />

priceless perfume containers complete with clock<br />

and automatic micro-scenes. In fact, high quality<br />

training is one of the firm’s creeds. There is a sector<br />

devoted to young watchmakers who start learning<br />

about this mysterious art from a very young age.<br />

‘I’m fifteen years of age and I want to become a<br />

master watchmaker’. This is the decided statement<br />

of one of these young people with his head bent<br />

over a personal project. His teacher explains to me<br />

with pride that the trainees don’t work for the company<br />

but follow their own personal projects and at<br />

the end of the training period they are encouraged<br />

to gain experience elsewhere. Just like in the best<br />

families. Between the work benches my attention is<br />

drawn to a Bugatti prototype, a tribute to a record<br />

breaking car in a record breaking watch. There are<br />

technical details on it which resemble those of a<br />

supercar. For me, this watch has something genial<br />

about it. Its interpretation of its use. It is a watch to<br />

THE UNIQUE PROFILE<br />

OF A BugAtti IN PINK GOLD.<br />

A CERTAIN FIFTEEN yEAR OLD<br />

TRAINEE.<br />

THE DIAL/DASHBOARD<br />

OF A BugAtti DRIVER<br />

PROTOTyPE ON ONE<br />

OF THOSE FASCINATING<br />

TECHNICAL DESIGNS.<br />

97

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98<br />

99

---

100<br />

zztop’S PICTURESQUE<br />

PERFORMANCE.<br />

DETAILS OF PRESTIGIOUS<br />

MODELS REFLECTING<br />

THE LIFE AND GENIUS<br />

OF THEIR FOUNDER<br />

BRILLIANTLy.<br />

drive with a visible dial when you take the wheel of<br />

a sports car firmly in your hands. We move towards<br />

Montreux and I’m totally smitten.<br />

The jazz festival is about to begin and, while I’m enjoying<br />

the sunset with the help of a glass of wine,<br />

Michel comes up to me. We spontaneously begin<br />

to chat. He is the son of Italian immigrants who met<br />

in Switzerland. His father arrived in 1947 and taught<br />

a precision instrument colleague about tomatoes.<br />

His journey to becoming a watchmaker was a long<br />

one because a 1944 law forbid foreigners from taking<br />

the watchmakers’ diploma.<br />

This is a real individual talking about his life, about<br />

the curiosity which drives him in his work and I<br />

can see in it a portrait of a company which never<br />

advertises for employees, in which each watch is<br />

made by a single watchmaker from start to finish. It<br />

is a company which is made in the image of a man<br />

who says he feels a man of the world, not Italian<br />

or Swiss, “because humanity is the most important<br />

thing in life”.<br />

We say goodbye and I move towards the zzTop<br />

concert in the grip of a revelation - Parmigiani has<br />

not studied branding to an art, it has a genuine history.<br />

Which is reflected in every watch.<br />

www.parmigiani.ch

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102<br />

Luciano Barbera<br />

Man of two centuries<br />

By fABRizio dE’ mARiniS - photoS By lylE f. RoBlin<br />

If the twentieth century, just as the beginning of the<br />

twenty-first has been, was dominated by Italian style<br />

and elegance in the worlds of fashion, dress sense,<br />

design, lifestyles, aesthetics and sophistication by<br />

means of the know how of Italy’s best master stylists<br />

of ‘the soul and the spirit’ then Luciano Barbera is the<br />

man of two centuries. An all round Renaissance man<br />

whose universal world view takes him from a grasp<br />

of the supreme essence of his raw materials to universally<br />

recognised works of art. And that’s not all. A<br />

work of art capable of charming - from the choice of<br />

the finest wools and fabrics to the finished item of<br />

clothing - the most sophisticated men and women<br />

of the earth, dictating style, codes and the most understated<br />

and regal elegance in every continent<br />

with the participation of the most sophisticated industrial<br />

and commercial minds in the world in a<br />

project such as the Biella Master delle Fibre Nobili<br />

which he set up in 1986, crucible for companies<br />

such as art workshops to pass on the secrets of the<br />

arts of wool and weaving. For thirteen months students<br />

move between theoretical training and direct<br />

contact with companies in work experience which<br />

gives them the chance to learn all the phases of<br />

working and distribution processes in the textileclothing<br />

sector through direct experience ranging<br />

from breeding of sheep to sale of wool at auction,<br />

making yarn to the finished fabric, from the cutting<br />

of the cloth to clothing design and finishing with<br />

the addition of the distribution logic of the great<br />

“yOUR JACKET TELLS<br />

THE WORLD WHO yOU ARE.<br />

FOR ME THE IDEAL JACKET<br />

MUST BE SOFT WITH NATURAL<br />

LINES AND BALANCED<br />

PROPORTIONS. IT MUST<br />

BE CLOSE FITTING AND NOT<br />

OBLIGE yOU TO MOVE<br />

UNNATURALLy.<br />

PRONOUNCED SHOULDERS<br />

COMMUNICATE VANITy<br />

NOT ELEGANCE TO ME.<br />

EVERy TIME I SEE A GENTLEMAN<br />

PLAy TENNIS OR GOLF<br />

IN A JACKET, I THINK<br />

THAT HE COULD BE<br />

A GOOD FRIEND OF MINE”.<br />

103

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104<br />

“FOLLOWING THE SEASONS<br />

TOO MUCH CAN MAKE yOU<br />

SEEM TOO UNIFORM<br />

AND CLICHéD”.<br />

IN WINTER, luCiAno<br />

BARBERA LOVES WEARING<br />

HIS FLANNEL TROUSERS,<br />

CASHMERE TIES IN SOBER<br />

COLOURS AND HIS WHITE<br />

LINEN JACKET WITHOUT<br />

OVERLOOKING HIS GILET.<br />

American and Japanese department stores. Just like<br />

a great sailor, Barbera has always been able to grasp<br />

intuitively which new and long-term sea routes to<br />

sail in advance, forecasting structural changes in<br />

markets and styles, fashions and trends. He has the<br />

shrewdness of the initiated in his eyes and senses<br />

and foresees the great tragedies ahead of time. This<br />

is what happened in 1986 when, on returning from<br />

a long journey in Asia, he said to his father and<br />

brother: “Either we change everything and return to<br />

our supreme art focusing on excellence and sophistication<br />

or we risk total annihilation. We will never be<br />

able to compete with them. They have very low<br />

costs. They crowd into the basements in millions to<br />

produce, day and night. They have the machinery<br />

and the raw materials. But luckily they don’t have<br />

what we have. Thousands of years of elegance”. His<br />

was a very long vision and it changed the course of<br />

Italian and world textile industry making it more sophisticated<br />

and meticulous, moving it towards top<br />

quality and excellence. And many followed in his<br />

wake. Always alert Barbera, just like the great Italians?<br />

“Always, particularly today, when you can be<br />

washed away by the smallest stream. There are millions<br />

of people who are just waiting for the chance<br />

to dress Italian sophistication and style, to furnish<br />

their houses with our creativity and design and we<br />

lose our know how, our history as manufacturers of<br />

excellence if we chase profit alone. If we don’t return<br />

to the supreme quality and sophistication that are at<br />

the heart of our history we risk ruining everything.<br />

Our governing and industrial elite must keep this in<br />

HIS WOOLS ARE TREATED<br />

LIKE CHAMPAGNE<br />

IN HIS PIANEzzE CELLARS.<br />

THEy ARE KEPT THERE EIGHT<br />

MONTHS IN CONSTANT<br />

HUMIDITy BECAUSE<br />

THEy HAVE TO REGENERATE<br />

THERE BEFORE WEAVING.<br />

105

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IN 1986, ON RETURNING FROM<br />

A LONG JOURNEy IN ASIA,<br />

luCiAno BARBERA SAID<br />

TO HIS FATHER AND BROTHER:<br />

“EITHER WE CHANGE<br />

EVERyTHING AND RETURN<br />

TO OUR SUPREME ART<br />

FOCUSING ON EXCELLENCE<br />

AND SOPHISTICATION OR WE<br />

RISK TOTAL ANNIHILATION...”.<br />

106<br />

mind. All the largest Western countries are rethinking<br />

their real economic policies and defending the<br />

birth and consolidation of new companies. In Italy<br />

producing has become something to be ashamed<br />

of. We are destroying everything. It is tragedy for a<br />

country whose roots go back to the Renaissance.<br />

We need to rethink and quickly or time will run out”.<br />

The wool makers of Biella have one great prerogative<br />

which has conquered the whole world not just<br />

a single continent with ‘Made in Italy’. Intuition. Barbera<br />

made it 360 degrees on an evening in 1986 in<br />

the social club in Piazza dei Martiri in Biella - a powerhouse<br />

town where every elegant person in the<br />

world should go at least once in his or her lifetime -<br />

when he brought together the key players in the<br />

wool industry such as zegna, Botto Poala and Piacenza<br />

to cite but a few. “I told them what I thought<br />

about the importance of our history and traditions<br />

and the uncertain future awaiting us if we didn’t<br />

make some brave decisions. I sewed the seed that<br />

led to the birth of the Biella Master delle Fibre Nobili<br />

(www.biellamaster.it, n.d.r.). A bulwark to preserve<br />

know how. Today company work experience - for<br />

the Master’s - takes place both in Italy and abroad.<br />

International experience with companies and distribution<br />

brands in Europe, China, Australia, USA and<br />

Japan is of particular importance. With the partnership<br />

of the Australian sheep farmers, students gain<br />

expertise in all the phases which occur before textile<br />

working: sheep breeding, shearing, selection and<br />

sale of the wool by auction. Barbera is also known for<br />

his bold battles in defence of ‘Made in Italy’ and the<br />

traceability of goods and raw materials. He has unmasked<br />

various attempts at manipulation and falsification<br />

of the ‘Made in Italy’ label at European level<br />

too and warned of the risk of loss of manufacturing<br />

identity. “There’s a lot of short-sightedness amongst<br />

politicians and industrialists who don’t understand<br />

what needs doing to defend Italian products, the<br />

outcome of thousands of years of practical civilisation.<br />

The push to industrialisation, just like internationalisation<br />

and globalisation have prompted<br />

many to focus on turnover and brand name policies<br />

alone without quality content. Today the negative<br />

effects of this are visible above all now in this devastating<br />

crisis. Let’s give our industrialists hope once<br />

1<strong>07</strong>

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108<br />

109

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110<br />

ABOVE, A THANK yOU LETTER<br />

FROM john john kEnnEdy<br />

TO luCiAno BARBERA AFTER<br />

THE FORMER VISITED THEN<br />

PRESIDENT Bill Clinton<br />

IN BARBERA DESIGNED<br />

CLOTHES.<br />

ELEGANCE AND STyLE<br />

ARE IN BARBERA’S DNA:<br />

“I WAS 24 yEARS OLD<br />

AND My TAILOR, LEGENDARy<br />

MILANESE mARio pozzi TOOK<br />

SIX MONTHS TO MAKE ME<br />

A SUIT. WHEN I PUT IT ON IN<br />

HIS PRESENCE I UNDERSTOOD<br />

WHAT A MASTERPIECE HE’D<br />

MADE ME. HE TOLD ME<br />

TO WEAR IT FOR AT LEAST TWO<br />

DAyS, GO AROUND IN IT, EAT<br />

IN IT AND yOU’LL SEE THEN<br />

THAT IT’S NOT SIMPLy A SUIT<br />

BUT yOUR SUIT”.<br />

111

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“A GENTLEMAN’S WARDROBE<br />

MUST BE FULL OF SHIRTS.<br />

THESE ARE THE TRIUMPH<br />

OF MODERN LIFE.<br />

I HAVE SO MANy THAT I’VE<br />

LOST COUNT OF THE NUMBER.<br />

yOU MUST HAVE SO MANy<br />

THAT yOUR OWN GOOD TASTE<br />

SURPRISES yOU EVERy TIME<br />

AND yOU ARE AMAzED EVERy<br />

TIME yOU GET THEM OUT<br />

OF yOUR WARDROBE”.<br />

112<br />

again and take back the world of elegance. We have<br />

the history, tradition, style, intuition and beauty. Let’s<br />

learn how to sell it on every continent. But quality<br />

must be supreme. We’ve made Biella a centre for<br />

research into textiles and the relationship between<br />

textiles and health, denouncing the criminal use of<br />

azo dyes which cause skin tumours in consumers.<br />

Ours is a philosophy of timeless, guaranteed excellence.<br />

We can teach it to the world. It is the only way<br />

open to us. Save traditions so that they can be new<br />

markets for sophistication and definite values”. Between<br />

1990 and 2000 Barbera was universally recognised<br />

as a style guru and, to all intents and<br />

purposes, the most elegant man of those years. One<br />

day, John John, Kennedy’s favourite, called him to<br />

tell him that he had been for a visit to the White<br />

House and that never had such an elegant American<br />

entered the Oval Office. He was wearing clothes<br />

with Barbera’s brand name. “I understand that the<br />

clothing caste wants bulk sales. But this is how history<br />

is destroyed and, that way, we lose our sense of<br />

who we are. My teachers were my father for fabrics,<br />

Mario Pozzi, Consilvio’s son in law and Mario Caraceni<br />

for clothes, shirtmaker Vittorio Siniscalchi and<br />

for shoes Antonio Bentivegna, great names in Milanese<br />

and international tailoring. Today I mainly wear<br />

clothes that I’ve designed myself. When I was eighteen<br />

my father sent me to England to gain experi-<br />

ence in weaving and spinning. In Biella I studied<br />

combing and dyeing. Then I found out about the<br />

great transformations in fabric in Milan where they<br />

looked into your soul and sewed your true identity<br />

onto you. They knew how to look into your mind.<br />

That was how I understood that true elegance is not<br />

appearance but your true essence. One day, at the<br />

end of a visit to our company, an Australian wool<br />

maker said to me, amazed: “But we sold you virgin<br />

wool and not cashmere. What miracles have you<br />

performed?” This is what I mean by substance and<br />

the unique, exceptional Italian way. In defence of<br />

our product, however, we must learn from the<br />

Americans who write everything clearly on their la-<br />

bels. An unruly market is to nobody’s advantage. In<br />

1960, after seeing a photo of me dressed in Mulas in<br />

a Saxony over-checked three-piece suit in dual<br />

panel brown, Murray Pearlstein asked me to create<br />

a clothing range for him. I’d learnt something at the<br />

Milanese tailors. Today we’ve even got vintage fabrics.<br />

We conserve our wools like champagne in our<br />

Pianezze cellars keeping them there eight months<br />

in constant humidity because it has to regenerate<br />

there before it is woven. The 1911 reserve is dedicated<br />

to my father Carlo, honorary member of the<br />

Superfine Wool Producers, the most exclusive wool<br />

making club in the world. We don’t forget history”.<br />

www.lucianobarbera.com<br />

THE GREAT TRADITION<br />

CONTINUES: ABOVE luCiAno<br />

BARBERA’S GRANDSON.<br />

113

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Eternity<br />

on the lakefront<br />

of pleasure:<br />

25 years of Villa Paradiso<br />

By pAolA pERfEtti - photoS By lylE f. RoBlin<br />

114<br />

It was 1940 when a not especially well known<br />

Italian actor and director by the name of Domenico<br />

Gambino was directing the film Il Segreto di<br />

Villa Paradiso. The plot was a strange story of intrigue<br />

and gambling with a mystery hidden on<br />

the far side of the ocean but this is not the plot<br />

of our story here.<br />

Our story is utterly Italian and here the unknown<br />

gives way to an atmosphere suffused with charm<br />

and elegance. Discretion, good manners, pleasure:<br />

these were some of the selected guests who<br />

took part in the celebrations for Villa Paradiso’s<br />

first 25 years on 13th July - 25 proud years overlooking<br />

the breathtaking views of Lake Garda.<br />

We are tempted to say ‘Happy Birthday Villa Para-<br />

diso Clinical Beauty’ but in actual fact on this occasion<br />

it is really the birthday boy who is giving<br />

generously to his guest rather than the contrary.<br />

In the context of buildings devoted to pleasure<br />

and wellbeing, this one is a classic and this is no<br />

surprise given that the French born owner Joëlle<br />

Vassal and her open minded companion in this<br />

adventure Danilo Maggi wanted it that way from<br />

the very beginning on the 13th of July 1988<br />

when they first opened the regal doors of this<br />

historic residence overlooking Lake Garda.<br />

The first nucleus of their anti-ageing and skincare<br />

prevention and cure clinic was thus born,<br />

a buen ritiro for the most demanding and passionate<br />

Italian and international guests who are,<br />

ON ONE SIDE, THE FACADE<br />

OF villA pARAdiSo CliniCAl<br />

BEAuty IN GARDONE RIVIERA<br />

SEEN THROUGH SOME<br />

LANTERNS IN THE FRONT<br />

GARDEN.<br />

ON THIS PAGE,<br />

A VIEW OF THE VILLA<br />

FROM THE LAKE.<br />

MAGICAL MOMENTS,<br />

THE PLEASURES<br />

OF A SUPERB MENU (BELOW).<br />

115

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116<br />

as always, looking for a pleasant place to stay to<br />

regenerate their energies after the intense professional<br />

efforts of the season.<br />

Many of Villa Paradiso’s friends and historic<br />

guests have not been able to resist this prestigious<br />

birthday suffused with Provence and essential<br />

oils, tasty and genuine food, champagne<br />

and beauty products, precisely those elements<br />

which Clinical Beauty have made into their Villa<br />

Paradiso Clinical Beauty product range. Beautiful<br />

women, happy faces, champagne glasses around<br />

the swimming pool, dancing and candlelight.<br />

There is nothing accidental about the fact that<br />

Villa Paradiso over the years has been given the<br />

name the ‘Bonbonnière of Wellbeing’ together<br />

with the other building set up with it, the Maison<br />

Du Relax, the first Wellbeing Relais in Italy.<br />

The objective is clear: return the polite visitor to<br />

a world in which he can breathe in the nectar<br />

of well-ageing cures whilst looking out onto a<br />

panorama of Lake Garda which subsumes much<br />

more than a paradise of beauty.<br />

The Villa’s busts remind us that Roman poet Catullus<br />

chose to make a haven for himself just a<br />

few kilometres away from here to compose his<br />

increasingly amorous rhymes. The details of its<br />

HISTORIC MARBLE, HEALTHy FOOD,<br />

A SPECTACULAR VIEW OF THE GARDEN<br />

OVERLOOKING LAKE GARDA,<br />

CHAMPAGNE AND DANCING.<br />

NEXT PAGE: A GREAT PORTRAIT<br />

OF dAnilo mAggi AND JoëllE<br />

vASSAl WELCOMING GUESTS<br />

TO villA pARAdiSo.<br />

ON THIS PAGE: A VIEW OF THE VILLA’S<br />

GARDEN AND THE LAKE FROM<br />

THE FIRST FLOOR OF THE PARADISO<br />

BUILDING. BOTTOM RIGHT: dAniElE<br />

mAggi DANCES WITH A GUEST,<br />

THE ACTRESS fEdERiCA moRo.<br />

117

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118<br />

THE ANCIENT STATUES LOOK<br />

ON AT villA pARAdiSo<br />

AND MAISON DU RELAX’S<br />

ELEGANT STyLE.<br />

NEXT PAGE, SOME<br />

OF THE GUESTS AT VILLA<br />

PARADISO’S 25TH BIRTHDAy.<br />

CLOCKWISE:<br />

ivAn AND mASA;<br />

luCiA SERlEnghi<br />

WITH dAniElA fEdi;<br />

kAtiA novEntA;<br />

CRiStinA milAnESi;<br />

StEfAno pAnCERA;<br />

fRAnCESCA CAvAllin<br />

WITH HER HUSBAND<br />

StEfAno REmigi;<br />

SiRiA mAgRi<br />

AND giovAnni totI;<br />

flAvio pERAldA<br />

AND EliSABEttA pASCuCCi;<br />

mARA vEniER<br />

WITH dAnilo mAggi;<br />

pAtRiziA miRigliAni<br />

WITH SAndRo SASSoli;<br />

pAolo liguoRi.<br />

furnishings and the road which winds along the<br />

coast showing off the Villa’s beauties to the last<br />

reminds us that these places were beloved of<br />

the poet Gabriele D’Annunzio, icon of the idea of<br />

pleasure and the eternal. Visible en route, the San<br />

Marco tower reminds us of the secret encounters<br />

between Benito Mussolini and Claretta Petacci.<br />

These are just small hints of a mystery which<br />

goes by the name of professionalism, welcome,<br />

attention to detail for the wellbeing of others,<br />

desire to live happily whilst loving oneself and<br />

others. “To love oneself is the beginning of a lifelong<br />

romance”.<br />

This is Villa Paradiso’s way of saying hello to those<br />

who approach it, even simply online.<br />

The romance in question can be experienced<br />

in the Formula Platinum, 3 Days of Wellbeing at<br />

Maison Du Relax or Night & Day Wellness choosing<br />

between 35 rooms including 1 suite, 2 superior<br />

rooms, 6 junior suites all with terraces, lake<br />

119

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120<br />

ON THIS PAGE, TOP LEFT:<br />

joëllE vASSAl,<br />

OWNER AND FOUNDER<br />

OF villA pARAdiSo.<br />

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM:<br />

A PLEASANT LIVING ROOM<br />

ON THE LAKESIDE.<br />

BOTTOM LEFT:<br />

fEdERiCA moRo, ACTRESS.<br />

BOTTOM RIGHT:<br />

giuSy BuSCEmi,<br />

MISS ITALy 2012.<br />

NEXT PAGE:<br />

A VIEW OF villA pARAdiSo’S<br />

ELEGANT LOBBy.<br />

views and all comforts (air conditioning, safes,<br />

wireless connection and TVs).<br />

A conversation room with satellite TV, a cosy bar<br />

area and naturally the comfortable anti-ageing<br />

treatment area with convenient cabins for<br />

beauty treatments and physiotherapy, a water<br />

area to immerse yourself in, two gyms and other<br />

beautiful spaces do the rest. There’s no doubt<br />

that whilst the Villa may not be able to give you<br />

the secret of eternal life it gets very close to the<br />

Pleasure of Happiness.<br />

www.villaparadiso.com<br />

121

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FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:<br />

SOME DETAILS OF THE INDOOR<br />

AND OUTDOOR SPAS OF VILLA<br />

PARADISO. THE ELEGANCE AND<br />

BEAUTy OF THE DéCOR ARE<br />

INSTANTS OF PURE PLEASURE.<br />

122<br />

123

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joëllE vASSAl AND dAnilo mAggi<br />

ON BOARD A mASERAti<br />

gRAnCABRio mC,<br />

A GOOD WAy TO ENJOy<br />

THE GARDESANA ROAD FROM<br />

villA pARAdiSo AND ALL LAKE<br />

GARDA’S BREATHTAKING VIEWS.<br />

124<br />

C<br />

M<br />

Y<br />

CM<br />

MY<br />

CY<br />

CMY<br />

K

---

126<br />

André,<br />

holistic taste<br />

By RoCío p. vAllEjo<br />

“HE WHO IS LOST<br />

IN HIS PASSION IS NOT<br />

AS LOST AS HE WHO HAS LOST<br />

HIS PASSION”, AndRé CHIANG.<br />

HERE IN ONE OF THE WINDOWS<br />

OF HIS RESTAURANT LOCATED<br />

AT BUKIT PASOH, SINGAPORE.<br />

127

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IMAGES OF SOME OF AndRé’S<br />

CREATIONS, CLOCKWISE FROM<br />

TOP RIGHT: OCTAPHILOSOPHy<br />

- SNACKING (PATATAS BRAVAS,<br />

NOIRMOUTIER POTATOES,<br />

TOMATO PUREE WITH AIOILI,<br />

JAPANESE CHIVES<br />

AND GARLIC FLOWERS,<br />

BED OF GARLIC CACAO SOIL).<br />

OCTAPHILOSOPHy - UNIQUE.<br />

OCTAPHILOSOPHy - PURE<br />

(SAINT-JACQUES RAVIOLI,<br />

PURPLE CAULIFLOWER<br />

CONSOMMé AND PICKLED<br />

SHALLOTS). OCTAPHILOSOPHy<br />

- TERROIR. OCTAPHILOSOPHy -<br />

ARTISAN (PHOTO NAT K).<br />

128<br />

Those who believe in astrology could not agree<br />

more that this well kept jewel was undoubtedly<br />

born under the sign of Libra, sign of balance/<br />

beauty. The sceptical ones may just acknowledge<br />

perfection and detail, even in the inaugural<br />

date 10/10/10. Whichever could be the appreciation<br />

approach, the quality that represents<br />

it is evident and undeniable. October 10, 2010<br />

Restaurant André welcomed its first guest. An<br />

intimate three-storey shop house in Bukit Pasoh,<br />

Singapore, André Restaurant reflects the utopic<br />

but down to earth culinary concept brought to<br />

light thanks to the effort of his founder A. Chiang<br />

supported by a determined and prepared staff<br />

that believes in quality and surpasses routine<br />

limits to bring forth the finest cuisine everyday.<br />

“I dreamt about owning a small place like a little<br />

house with a small kitchen, one that feeds only a<br />

handful of people a place that sees me pushing<br />

the boundaries of my creative mind reaching out<br />

to all who are curious of my creations…”.<br />

An artist that can’t be reduced to a simple definition,<br />

André is not a chef but a true artificer. Since<br />

the beginning he has continued to research how<br />

our capacity to taste food is influenced by our<br />

memory, through the personal experiences we<br />

acquire over time. This has led him to develop a<br />

culinary principle - Octa-philosophy - based on<br />

eight primary characteristics: Unique, Texture,<br />

Memory, Pure, Terroir, Salt, South and Artisan.<br />

129

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130<br />

“Octa.phi.los.o.phy [ok-ta-fi-los-uh-fee] - noun<br />

Gastronomic. The hypothesis of eight characteristics<br />

that attempt to discover through cuisine;<br />

the nature and significance of ordinary and scientific<br />

beliefs while investigating the simplicity<br />

of concepts by means of rational argument concerning<br />

their presumptions, implications, and<br />

interrelationships. The pure and unique hues of<br />

nature’s gifts from the land together with scientific<br />

research are juxtaposed alongside with the<br />

intuitions of the South, where primal aromas and<br />

texture evoke the endless trail of memories”.<br />

These elements reflect Chef André’s cuisine and<br />

the thought process behind it.<br />

“Diners will be treated to myriad flavors and<br />

textures that engage the senses. People will<br />

be offered a definitive holistic gourmet experience<br />

through the freshest produce with freshest<br />

idea and will gain a better understanding<br />

of my thoughts and the philosophy behind my<br />

cuisine”. With more than 60 awards in his pocket<br />

André continues to astonish a globalized and<br />

demanding clientele all around the world that<br />

even take a flight just to be nourished with limpid<br />

gourmet magic.<br />

www.restaurantandre.com<br />

IMAGES OF EXTERIOR<br />

AND INTERIOR OF RESTAURANT<br />

AndRé. COUNTERCLOCKWISE<br />

FROM TOP LEFT:<br />

OUTDOOR AREA, WHITE ROOM<br />

IN THE SECOND FLOOR.<br />

CHEF ANDRE CHIANG WITH<br />

ONE OF HIS CREATIONS.<br />

131

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132<br />

The pulse<br />

of history<br />

By AlBERto gERoSA<br />

This limited edition Codebreaker watch<br />

by the english Bremont house symbolises the epic battle<br />

between the Bletchley park cryptographers and the German<br />

enigma cipher machine.<br />

A SERIES OF CyLINDERS<br />

FROM THE CODEBREAKING<br />

MACHINE KNOWN AS BOMBE.<br />

BELOW: CAptAin<br />

jERRy RoBERtS, VETERAN<br />

OF BLETCHLEy PARK,<br />

IN A PERIOD PHOTO.<br />

ROBERTS TOOK PART<br />

IN THE BREmont<br />

CodEBREAkER PRESENTATION<br />

WHICH TOOK PLACE IN JUNE.<br />

133

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ORIGINAL PUNCH CARDS.<br />

THE LIMITED EDITION NUMBERS<br />

ON THE EDGE OF THE CASE<br />

OF EACH CODEBREAKER WATCH<br />

WERE TAKEN FROM THESE.<br />

IN THE MIDDLE: ROTORS FROM<br />

THE GERMAN ENIGMA CIPHER<br />

MACHINES.<br />

ABOVE:<br />

AN ORIGINAL ENIGMA<br />

MACHINE.<br />

ON THE FACING PAGE:<br />

PHOTOS TAKEN<br />

AT BLETCHLEy PARK DURING<br />

WORLD WAR TWO.<br />

134<br />

“We have a passion for watches, for history and<br />

all things mechanical in our blood”. The Codebreaker<br />

timepiece is the perfect expression of<br />

this Bremont team declaration. This elegant<br />

chronograph is inspired by an official model<br />

dating to the 1940s and equipped with a great<br />

many resources amongst which its flyback functions<br />

and its second time zone stand out.<br />

Codebreaker is also a piece of living history encompassing<br />

elements which come from Bletch-<br />

ley Park itself, the legendary British cryptology<br />

department given the task of deciphering the<br />

secret messages of the German armed forces in<br />

World War Two. It has been estimated that the ingenuity<br />

of brilliant mathematicians such as Alan<br />

Turing and the huge efforts of the whole Bletchley<br />

Park staff brought forward Allied victory by as<br />

much as two years saving incalculable suffering<br />

and human life. It was a formidable enterprise if<br />

we consider that the rotor system used by the<br />

135

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infamous German Enigma cipher machine made<br />

possible an infinite variety of different combinations.<br />

And as Codebreaker is also equipped with a<br />

rotor, a fundamental component of its automatic<br />

movement, Bremont has decided to incorporate<br />

a fragment of the original Enigma rotor into it.<br />

This tops even the reproduction of one of the<br />

cylinders which made up the so-called Bombe<br />

machine used at Bletchley Park to speed up the<br />

decryption of the Enigma messages. Saving time<br />

was effectively an absolute priority as once the<br />

war began the Germans adopted measures such<br />

as an increase in the number of rotors from 3 to 5<br />

and changed its settings every 24 hours.<br />

But that’s not all. A further ace up Bletchley Park’s<br />

sleeve during the war was the establishment of<br />

a register of decrypted Enigma messages made<br />

in the form of punch cards. Inserted into special<br />

machines these allowed only solutions which<br />

were compatible with the Enigma algorithm<br />

to pass through thus drastically reducing the<br />

number of attempts necessary to decipher new<br />

messages. It is precisely these period punch<br />

cards, with their printed numbers, which appear<br />

on the edges of the case of each Codebreaker<br />

timepiece and indicate its limited edition number.<br />

There will be 240 watches with a stainless<br />

steel case and 50 in pink gold costing 18,500 USD<br />

and 33,995 USD respectively. The crown of each<br />

watch will be decorated with fragments of pine<br />

from the floor in Bletchley Park’s Hut 6 in which<br />

the Enigma codes used by the Wehrmacht and<br />

the Luftwaffe were decrypted.<br />

Codebreaker is the result of the partnership between<br />

this British watchmaker and the Bletchley<br />

Park Foundation. Part of the proceeds will go towards<br />

the restoration of this historic complex in<br />

North East London. Such fund raising operations<br />

are not new to Bremont. Before Bletchley Park it<br />

was the national Royal Navy Museum which benefited<br />

from the sale of another Bremont watch,<br />

the HMS Victory model. And on the subject of<br />

victory, we believe that for those who wear a<br />

cronograph as unique as Codebreaker on their<br />

wrists every day will be a miniature V-Day.<br />

www.bremont.com<br />

ABOVE: THE LIMITED EDITION<br />

NUMBER TAKEN FROM PERIOD<br />

PUNCH CARDS. ON THE FACING<br />

PAGE: THE BACK OF THE CASE<br />

AND DETAIL OF THE UNUSUAL<br />

ROTOR OF THE WATCHES’<br />

AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT.<br />

136<br />

137

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Mick Jagger<br />

“Forever young”<br />

By SERgE SimonARt<br />

138<br />

The one and only Mick Jagger. Literally. Who else is<br />

there? His A list contemporaries are either dead or<br />

resting, or they were simply never quite as sexy<br />

and charismatic as the Stones frontman. Jim Morrison<br />

has gone, so has Jimi Hendrix. Paul McCartney<br />

was never quite as beguiling as a performer.<br />

Dylan can’t dance - if he can, it’s a well guarded<br />

secret. Jagger’s predatory charm, his animal magnetism<br />

and general stage presence are unique.<br />

Even his buddy, kindred spirit and nemesis Keith<br />

Richards, at the height of their animosity (what<br />

Keith called “World War III”), allowed for the fact<br />

that “Nobody else on this planet can work a room<br />

like Mick can. When he pours it on, it still amazes<br />

me”. His body language is feline, ever so slightly<br />

camp at times, but always mesmerizing. Jagger is<br />

obviously and purposely a style icon, a rock aristocrat,<br />

an aesthete, although he finds such honorary<br />

titles reductive: “A German journalist wanted to<br />

talk only about style, as if I were some kind of Duke<br />

of Windsor figure. I appreciate beauty, but I’m not<br />

a clothes horse”. Nevertheless, Jagger’s sartorial<br />

incarnations have entered fashion history: the<br />

Shellyan frocks, the Byronesque suits, the louche<br />

peacock look of “Performance”, the faux bohemian<br />

attire in Saint-Tropez, the flamboyant Ossie Clark<br />

jumpsuits, the redingote riding coats, the deca-<br />

dent sport jock stadium look of the early eighties,<br />

the Studio 54 disco look, the Savile Row suits (although<br />

bespoke suits were always more Charlie<br />

Watts’s bag), the cosmopolitan jet set look... Jagger’s<br />

fashion sense has been markedly broader<br />

than that of, say, Bryan - Tuxedo - Ferry. And these<br />

days he has his stage clothes made by his girlfriend<br />

L’Wren Scott. The best thing about clothes, he<br />

says, is “I’m skinny, so I can wear anything that emphasizes<br />

my silhouette, I don’t have to worry about<br />

whether my clothes adequately cover up any fat<br />

bits.’ L’Wren says the big thing is the stage gear has<br />

to be ‘stretchy, heavily constructed yet lightweight,<br />

and never tight or scratchy, as he has to<br />

move around in it”. For almost five decades now,<br />

Jagger has epithomised rock ’n roll cool. From his<br />

diaries, we learn that Cecil Beaton, a style icon of<br />

the previous generation of Bright young Things,<br />

was fascinated by Mick’s charisma and his “marvelous<br />

torso”. Soon, there was to be a changing of<br />

the guard. There have been many sidelines in Jagger’s<br />

life, from fashion and documentaries to filmproducing<br />

and acting and elegant philandering,<br />

but music has always come first. Contrary to the<br />

popular myth of the ever stoned Stones or the<br />

loungeing rockstar, the prolific Jagger has a strong<br />

work ethic, echoes of which can be found in lyrics<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:<br />

yOUNG miCk jAggER.<br />

thE Rolling StonES,<br />

WITH MEMBERS<br />

ChARliE wAttS (DRUMS),<br />

BRiAn jonES (GUITAR),<br />

Bill wymAn (BASS),<br />

kEith RiChARdS<br />

(LEAD-GUITAR)<br />

AND MICK JAGGER (VOCALS),<br />

ARRIVING AT THE AIRPORT ©<br />

PIERRE FOURNIER/SyGMA/<br />

CORBIS.<br />

miCk jAggER<br />

AND jERRy hAll ©<br />

NORMAN PARKINSON/SyGMA/<br />

CORBIS.<br />

139

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140<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:<br />

miCk jAggER WITH HIS WIFE<br />

BiAnCA DURING THEIR<br />

HONEyMOON IN ITALy ©<br />

HULTON-DEUTSCH<br />

COLLECTION/CORBIS.<br />

MICK JAGGER<br />

IN THE RECORDING STUDIO.<br />

miCk jAggER,<br />

SAn REmo itAly.<br />

like “Let’s work” and “I ain’t gonna cry for you if<br />

you’re lazy”. Like all rock stars, Jagger is an opportunist.<br />

He learned early: “At 11, we went squaredancing,<br />

ballroom dancing. It was the first time<br />

you were allowed to legitimately touch girls”. He’s<br />

also competitive. His drive is hinted in casual remarks<br />

about seemingly unimportant passtimes: “I<br />

like hitting a ball really hard in the middle of a tennis<br />

racket - hitting the sweet spot”. When John<br />

Lennon entered his domestic phase, Jagger felt<br />

that Lennon had to be out there, making music -<br />

let the baking of bread to bakers. Everyone can<br />

produce embarrassing photos of their earlier incarnations,<br />

and even Jagger committed a sartorial<br />

faux pas or two. “Stay away from high coloured<br />

shoes”, is, looking back, his main advice. “My children<br />

look at the “Dancing in the Street” video and<br />

go “Wow, look at that shirt, dad!” That video was<br />

done in ten minutes, but I could have done better”.<br />

These days, at a time when his daughter Georgia<br />

May is the muse of Cavalli, even Mick’s children<br />

adopt their father’s style: ‘My daughters Elizabeth<br />

and Georgia May are always nicking all my vintage<br />

seventies’ clothes.’ Keith once described Mick as “a<br />

nice bunch of guys - you can never be sure which<br />

Mick you’re going to meet”. I met Jagger twice,<br />

and what has stayed with me is his intelligence.<br />

Not all rock stars are smart, believe me. Jagger was<br />

astute, well read, witty, friendly but with the laserlike<br />

eyes of someone who’s has seen it all, and who<br />

doesn’t suffer fools gladly. He was a bit guarded,<br />

there was a hint of the siege mentality of someone<br />

who has learned that not everyone in the field of<br />

popular music and media is trustworthy - understandably<br />

so, as the Stones and many others were<br />

ripped off and betrayed by managers, accountants<br />

and hangers-on. He also seemed down to earth,<br />

grounded, aware of his stature and worth, but<br />

clever enough not to buy into his own myth, indeed<br />

very aware that there is a stage version of<br />

him and an everyday version, and the trick is to<br />

switch between one and the other without mixing<br />

them up - which is probably why he is still alive<br />

and kicking. That and the punishing fitness regime<br />

- Jagger is no stranger to the gym, his routine includes<br />

ballet and kickboxing. Meeting him also<br />

made me feel the clicheed division between Jagger<br />

and Richards - Mick as the calculated, businesslike,<br />

power mad control freak (what Keith Richards<br />

calls LVS - Lead Vocalist Syndrome), and Keith as<br />

the real thing, the true rock ’n roll rebel - is a phallacy.<br />

Actually, Mick is the musically more adventurous<br />

one, the one who tries out different musical<br />

styles, the one who forced the Stones to adopt a<br />

more contemporary sound, the one breaking out<br />

of the classic rock ’n roll band set-up. There are stories<br />

of him battling other band members and producers,<br />

telling them “We are not trying to remake<br />

“Exile on Main Street”!”. It was also always Mick who<br />

kept the band together. Even Keith admits that<br />

“For years, Mick looked after me with great sweetness,<br />

never complaining. He ran things, did the<br />

work and marshalled the forces that saved me.<br />

Mick looked after me like a brother”. Jagger was<br />

also the loyal one, demanding to be arrested with<br />

Keith when Boston police wanted to lock him up.<br />

It was Jagger who pleaded for economic restructuring<br />

- it’s easy to paint him as a money grabbing<br />

businessman, but without him, the Stones would<br />

have gone broke long ago. Jagger also never fell<br />

for the false romanticism of rock ’n roll, keeping his<br />

private life private (his solo song ‘Hideaway’ is telling<br />

in that respect) and making sure he always had<br />

a life separate from the band: “A band is not a family,<br />

not a marriage. It’s work. It’s like a gang with its<br />

pecking order and rivalries. It’s not brotherly love.<br />

People always say that, but I have a brother - Chris<br />

Jagger - and my relationship with him is nothing<br />

at all like my relationship with Keith”. And he is<br />

more versatile, balanced and rounded than the<br />

picture the media paint of him, the “former rebel<br />

turned jetsetter” who lives a life of garden parties,<br />

cricket matches and hobnobbing with toffs in Barbados.<br />

In reality he hates ‘flunkies and spongers.’<br />

And he is well read - loves history books and biographies.<br />

In fact, maybe the thing I admire most<br />

about him, given the frankly ludicrously chaotic<br />

mayhem that has surrounded him over the past<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:<br />

miCk jAggER WITH BiAnCA<br />

péREz-moRA mACiAS LATER<br />

BiAnCA jAggER.<br />

MICK JAGGER,<br />

MILAN 20<strong>07</strong> © SIMONE<br />

CECCHETTI/CORBIS.<br />

yOUNG MICK JAGGER.<br />

LOWER LEFT:<br />

thE Rolling StonES.<br />

141

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CLOCKWISE FROM<br />

TOP LEFT: miCk jAggER<br />

AND thE Rolling StonES.<br />

miCk jAggER PERFORMING<br />

DURING THE ROLLING STONE<br />

CONCERT AT glAStonBuRy<br />

fEStivAl OF CONTEMPORARy<br />

PERFORMING ARTS<br />

29 JUNE 2013 © FACUNDO<br />

ARRIzABALAGA/EPA/CORBIS.<br />

MICK JAGGER 20<strong>07</strong>.<br />

142<br />

half century, is how sane he has remained. That<br />

includes his healthy suspicion of drugs. He has indulged,<br />

but was never an addict, deeming cocaine<br />

“a daft, debilitating habit-forming bore, and bad<br />

for the voice” and heroin “quite destructive and<br />

devious”. Recently, on the David Letterman show,<br />

Mick joked “you start playing rock ’n roll so you can<br />

have sex and do drugs, but you end up doing<br />

drugs so you can still play rock ’n roll and have sex”.<br />

The rumour that he has a metal plate in his nose<br />

he dismisses as “rubbish”. As far back as the late<br />

seventies, journalists asked Jagger “Will the Stones<br />

ever tour again?”. Since then, there have been a<br />

dozen world tours, and although the Stones aren’t<br />

yet in the Dylanesque Neverending Tour league, it<br />

looks as the recent concerts in Hyde Park were<br />

anything but a farewell. During a concert, I heard<br />

Keith say “This is better than dying, huh?”. Quite.<br />

Frank Sinatra said there’s a lot to be said for longevity.<br />

Jagger said, dryly “Well, there’s two options really:<br />

either you’re dead or you’re longevity”. But<br />

Mick isn’t one to dwell on the past. “I don’t look at<br />

the clouds of tomorrow through the sunshine of<br />

today. It’s ridiculous: while you’re around, in great<br />

shape, with no chance of extinction, everyone’s<br />

ready to kick you and say “Why don’t you break up,<br />

you’ve outstayed your welcome””. And when it<br />

seems you’re ready to retire, they go “But it’s the<br />

Stones, man, you should go on forever!” People<br />

seem to demand of me that I keep their youthful<br />

memories intact in a glass case specifically reserved<br />

for them and damn the sacrifices I have to<br />

make. They have this conservative picture of us<br />

and don’t want us to change. But I don’t want to<br />

live in the past just for their petty satisfaction. I still<br />

make music “cause it’s fun and challenging. And I<br />

love the warmth of an audience, rolling towards<br />

me in waves”. Jagger was always fiercely competitive<br />

- keeping one eye on the competition - what<br />

was David Bowie doing, or Prince, or Michael Jackson,<br />

or whoever seemed a fitting sparring partner<br />

at the time. So, this year we find Jagger the elder,<br />

the peer, the survivor, the legend, the icon, blessed<br />

with an undiminished lust for life. Peter Pan Jagger<br />

the unstoppable. We’re lucky to have him. To<br />

quote Mr zimmerman: may he stay forever young.<br />

PROTAGONIST THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF FERRETTI GROUP N°102 VOL. 2<br />

Ferretti Yachts 960<br />

CRN 125 60 mt “J’ade”<br />

Pershing 62’<br />

Cannes: hotel,<br />

night life and jet set<br />

The new<br />

Maserati Ghibli

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Dress code (r)evolution<br />

Prada autumn-winter 2013<br />

By moniCA CAmozzi<br />

144<br />

The time archive opens. And out come evocations,<br />

snapshots, glimpses of the imaginary, dormant<br />

but timeless. As always Prada is a step ahead<br />

of the surge of collective feeling. The strong forties<br />

feel which has swept over women’s clothing, full<br />

of aggressive archetypes and prosaic discoveries,<br />

has found its perfect expression in the Prada<br />

autumn-winter catwalk collection. It is a cauldron<br />

of ideas which ably selects the elements which<br />

are capable of bringing unity to the collection: at<br />

times infused with pictorial, expressionist colour,<br />

at times with nuances of nostalgia for the Hollywood<br />

Fifties and at others pervaded with flashes<br />

of maximalism magnified by shining gold couture<br />

dresses. There are hints of new look in the high<br />

waists, tight belts and flared skirts which remind<br />

us of Brigitte Bardot on the cover of Elle in the<br />

1950s at the height of Vichy fashion with checks<br />

as a constant theme on the catwalks and all over<br />

hour glass dresses and long A-line coats. But noth-<br />

ing is simply taken from the past without reworking,<br />

without the clear and unmistakeable sign of<br />

style on every outfit. The teal coloured suits in<br />

heavy cloths are wonderful with their slim fit jackets<br />

and sleeves or in glacé tweed and looking as<br />

if they’ve been stolen from a Rothko painting. The<br />

Prada woman is skilfully unconventional alternating<br />

retro temptations with total leather looks, narrow<br />

shouldered 1970s jackets and three quarter<br />

length trousers to be worn with moccasins. It is an<br />

imperative femininity prompted by determinedly<br />

seductive, intellectual and subtle instincts. Fabrics<br />

give structure to irregular hems and tight fitting<br />

bodices with dropped shoulders in wide, in-depth<br />

stripes on a herringbone texture. The iconic image<br />

is still that of the black V-neck jersey, Joan Crawford<br />

style, with a wide cherry coloured skirt and<br />

micro-check overcoat with a digital sequence.<br />

Looking through the past, to go inside the future.<br />

www.prada.com<br />

THE ACCENTUATED<br />

WAISTLINE, THE LONGUETTE,<br />

THE EXPRESSION DENOTING<br />

FEMININITy TEMPERED<br />

By INTELLECT.<br />

THE pRAdA WOMAN EXUDES<br />

A VIGOR THAT TAKES<br />

THE SyMBOLS OF THE PAST<br />

AND PROCESSES THEM LIKE<br />

A SOFTWARE PROGRAM,<br />

BRINGING THEM UP TO DATE.<br />

THE NEW SANDAL CONCEPT<br />

IS OVERSIzE, WITH A SQUARE<br />

HEEL. DECISIVE.<br />

145

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RETRO ALCHEMy<br />

IS DISTILLED IN THE ALEMBIC<br />

OF TEXTILE AND FORMAL<br />

EXPERIMENTATION:<br />

SKIRT HOOPS REINFORCED<br />

By HEAVy FABRICS,<br />

FUR MUFFS, WITH FLASHES<br />

OF NON-CONFORMISM LIKE<br />

THE GOLD BELT ON GRISAILLE,<br />

THE VICHy RED AND WHITE<br />

CHECKS WITH THE CERULEAN<br />

COAT, THE CONTRASTING<br />

COLOR POCKETS ON TAPERED<br />

JACKETS WITH TUCKED WAISTS.<br />

THE BAGS ARE MAJESTIC,<br />

COMING CLOSE TO THE SIzE<br />

OF A GLAM ATTACHé CASE<br />

INTENDED FOR A BUSy DAy.<br />

146<br />

147

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148<br />

bucolica:<br />

the country life<br />

By paola perfetti - photos By GuiDo taroni<br />

stylinG By tess Masazza anD roBerta lo BaiDo<br />

Make Up and hair styling<br />

by Melissa Marcello<br />

FeMale Model: Csilla<br />

Molnar @Fashion Model<br />

Male Model: luca lanzani.<br />

his:<br />

Beretta jaCket<br />

isaia jUMper<br />

ralph lauren shirt<br />

levi’s jeans<br />

Doucal’s shoes.<br />

hers:<br />

schneiDers jaCket<br />

Kiton shirt<br />

alysi troUsers and braCes<br />

voile Blanche shoes<br />

raw Classy biCyCle<br />

FroM sartoria cicli.<br />

149

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in CloCkwise order<br />

photo 1: hacKett lonDon hat<br />

photo 2: hers: trussarDi<br />

sleeVelss, trench coat,<br />

droMe dress, ralph lauren<br />

watCh MediUM steel,<br />

white FaCe, ralph lauren<br />

stirrUp ColleCtion<br />

photo 3: praDa sUnglasses.<br />

150<br />

“him and her” meet on the straw sheafs left in the<br />

garden, that fragrance of everlasting summer in<br />

the air, yet it is a mild saturday in mid-september.<br />

For some, that afternoon of idleness “is the mother<br />

of all vices”, but for those who get away from the<br />

passage of time, that adventure on a tailor-made<br />

bicycle, chosen for these long tree lined avenues<br />

which are not yet tinged with autumn yellows, is<br />

‘otium’ in the latin sense of the word. the english<br />

call it ‘Country style’, a lifestyle in contact with the<br />

earth. it is of no importance that outside the walls<br />

of the villa in question (Villa Castelbarco in Vaprio<br />

d’adda near Milan) there’s a fast moving, dynamic<br />

2.0 world. here time stands still and all is magical.<br />

the statues in the garden seem to come to life;<br />

they hide objects, one moment wearing sophisti-<br />

cated hats just like the magical cats of a fable written<br />

two centuries ago, reading their eternal stone<br />

volumes with sunglasses from the last collection<br />

of some well-known brand, stealing travel rucksacks<br />

from one another in the certainty that their<br />

rough skin will have no impact on leathers forged<br />

by the patience of skilled artisans. a moment later<br />

the game is interrupted and silence falls once<br />

more. “he” looks out to the horizon hiding his<br />

gaze under a cowboy hat. “she” is wrapped in a<br />

warm wool overcoat and watches him from the<br />

vantage point of the “piano nobile”. these are<br />

moments suffused in country silence broken only<br />

by the desire to set off once again along those<br />

avenues at sunset, or enjoy the last rays of sun<br />

and nature allows for this. the wooden ducks<br />

FroM leFt to right<br />

photo 1: his:<br />

Brunello cucinelli gilet<br />

and tie corneliani shirts<br />

palzileri troUsers<br />

Borsalino hat<br />

Moreschi shoes<br />

Gallo soCks<br />

coruM watCh, adMiral’s<br />

CUp ColleCtion 47<br />

tourBillon GMt<br />

132.201.86 / ØFØ1an11<br />

photo 2: furla bag.<br />

151

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152<br />

trussarDi rUCksaCk<br />

corneliani shoes.<br />

and birds at the entrance watch us like mute sentinels<br />

of a place in which only the sound of the<br />

bells of the hamlet’s old church brings us back<br />

to real life. the end of a bucolica day? perhaps in<br />

spatial terms but not in memory, not under our<br />

skins. “him and her” retain their craft items, the<br />

products of those who are capable of halting the<br />

technological ferment of the city for something<br />

more long lasting and wide ranging, something<br />

hand made.<br />

“bucolica - il Vivere Country” is an exhibition fair<br />

which took place at “his and her” Villa Castelbarco<br />

from the 13th to the 15th of september. Underneath<br />

frescoed ceilings, staircases still resound<br />

with the Count’s celebrations and windows<br />

allow a breathtaking view out onto the colours<br />

his: ravizza jaCket<br />

eton shirt<br />

Woolrich troUsers<br />

church’s shoes<br />

GiorGio arMani sUnglasses<br />

la vestita 000 (prototype)<br />

biCyCle sartoria cicli<br />

watCh: auDeMars piGuet<br />

le brassUs, royal oaK<br />

oFFshore ColleCtion,<br />

Chronograph 42 MM<br />

in steel, no. 102.<br />

hers:<br />

BurBerry jaCket<br />

civiDini jUMper<br />

MassiMo reBecchi troUsers<br />

trussarDi boots<br />

ralph lauren watCh<br />

raW classy biCyCle<br />

FroM sartoria cicli.<br />

153

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154<br />

his: zilli jaCket<br />

BarBour shirt<br />

Ballantyne troUsers<br />

pantofola D’oro shoes<br />

Car: Vintage lanD rover<br />

with short wheel base.<br />

of the adda valley as far as the eye can see, business<br />

people, craftsmen, leather workers, weavers,<br />

shoemakers, tailors, shirtmakers, painters,<br />

antique dealers, collectors and those who love<br />

Country style all met up under the guidance of<br />

the event’s manager and creator, luigi Michielon<br />

(d.o.g.e.) with the support of his friend, art critic<br />

and writer, beba Marsano, for a look at the world<br />

of nature and essential elegance. the inauguration<br />

under the stars in one of the villa’s courtyards<br />

was simple and chic at the same time. the event’s<br />

pet friendly moments such as its gala dog dinner<br />

for our four legged friends were pleasant. From<br />

retro table football in the garden tent to exhibitors<br />

in the middle of the park, not even the rain<br />

was able to stop those who were truly interested<br />

his: luciano BarBera jaCket<br />

ByBlos jUMper<br />

Borsalino hat.<br />

thanks to orologeria<br />

luiGi verGa Milano,<br />

watChMakers.<br />

WWW.luiGiverGa.it<br />

155

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photos by lyle f. roBlin<br />

a View oF villa castelBarco<br />

in vaprio D’aDDa with<br />

the Creations oF soMe oF<br />

the skilled artisans inVited.<br />

on the next two pages<br />

a Few details oF<br />

the BespoKe loUnge<br />

at “Bucolica -<br />

il vivere country”<br />

in partnership with:<br />

alpi, Ballantyne,<br />

Beretta, Borsalino,<br />

caMo factory,<br />

caBan roMantic,<br />

car shoe, Danese,<br />

Dr vranjes, en&is, furla,<br />

GoMMapiuMa Decor,<br />

hacKett lonDon,<br />

henDricK’s, infiniti,<br />

internoitaliano,<br />

jannelli&volpi, Kiton,<br />

lov orGanic,<br />

luciano BarBera, panDora,<br />

plust collection,<br />

ravizza 1871,<br />

schneiDers salzBurG,<br />

sciaMat, sealup, stouls,<br />

toBeus, W-eye, zilli.<br />

156<br />

157

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158<br />

in the bucolic life and then for a restoring break<br />

for our country guests, after a day spent on the<br />

lawns or under a september shower, new lov<br />

organic blends of organic tea just arrived from<br />

France (and before that from the rooms of the<br />

russian tsar) were served in the bespoke lounge<br />

followed by glasses of hendrick’s gin with a slice<br />

of cucumber, not before aperitif time and immediately<br />

after sunset.<br />

designer sittings, elements of original furniture,<br />

a contemporary gramophone, special room fra-<br />

grances, classic or vintage tailored suits resting<br />

on wooden creations gave us a play of styles and<br />

histories in every corner which was always different<br />

from the beginning to the end.<br />

“he” has come to the end of his bucolica day. like<br />

an english country gentleman, he has no intention<br />

of showing his disappointment and awaits<br />

his next chance to meet “her”. he says goodbye<br />

like a man of few words, a gesture is enough. he<br />

lifts the brim of his hat and leaves.<br />

www.bucolicacountry.com<br />

on the leFt hand page,<br />

the BespoKe loUnge<br />

at Bucolica - il vivere country<br />

top: a Few photos<br />

oF the eVent.<br />

159

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160<br />

the timeless charm<br />

of the dandy<br />

By sara noseDa<br />

on these pages<br />

Mr. enrique craMe iii<br />

and Mr. Matt fox,<br />

shopkeepers oF the Fine<br />

and dandy shop in new york.<br />

aboVe: the CoVer<br />

oF ”i aM a DanDy”- the retUrn<br />

oF the elegant gentleMan,<br />

edited by sven ehMann<br />

with photos by rose<br />

callahan and texts<br />

by nathaniel aDaMs.<br />

161

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on the leFt:<br />

Mr. sven raphael<br />

schneiDer, editor<br />

oF the gentleMen gazette<br />

and a Close Up oF his jaCket;<br />

Mr. Gay talese, CreatiVe<br />

adVisor in new york.<br />

on this page: british<br />

Mr. Michael “atters”<br />

attree.<br />

162<br />

162<br />

if the portrait of dorian gray and the great<br />

gatsby were only books or the Cotton Club was<br />

only a film, it would be impossible to talk still of<br />

dandyism today. the figure of the male dandy<br />

was born at the end of the nineteenth century<br />

as a doctrine of elegance and beauty as ends in<br />

themselves. oscar wilde was the first to symbolise<br />

dandyism when he wrote of young dorian in<br />

love with his own image. wilde is still there in<br />

the popular imagination of the british dandy as<br />

is the rich american businessman described by<br />

Fitzgerald. gatsby has thus gone down in history<br />

as the most famous dandy Man and the success<br />

of the latest film confirms this. then there is richard<br />

gere dancing to the sound of jazz trumpet<br />

music in Francis Ford Coppola’s film and after<br />

him a range of stars of the cinema have been<br />

emblematic of dandyism such as adrien brody,<br />

justin timberlake, john Malkovich and jeremy<br />

irons. the dandy phenomenon - which in some<br />

way influenced the later hipster movement, a<br />

neologism coined in the 1940s for lovers of jazz<br />

and swing - has come down the centuries by<br />

means of decadent poets like Charles baudelaire<br />

and joris karl huysmans via the pre- raphaelites<br />

and dante gabriel rossetti. today the dandy<br />

spirit lives on in the new personalities of the<br />

book ‘i am a dandy - the return of the elegant<br />

gentleman’ published by gestalten. in it new<br />

york photographer rose Callahan and journalist<br />

nathaniel adams (editor sven ehmann) have<br />

collected portraits and biographies of modern<br />

dandies both young and not so young living in<br />

paris, london and new york who, like gatsby,<br />

163

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on this page:<br />

Mr. Keith churchWell,<br />

teaCher and psyChologist.<br />

right:<br />

Mr. roBert e. Brian,<br />

art déCo addiCt.<br />

“it’s like liVing<br />

in a MUseUM”, he says.<br />

164<br />

make elegance, sophistication and poise (and<br />

perhaps a little narcissism) their style of life. the<br />

research of the Callahan-adams team began in<br />

2008, became a blog in 2010 and then a book in<br />

2013. the preface was written by glenn o’brien,<br />

writer and member of andy warhol’s Factory,<br />

creative director of barneys new york and Calvin<br />

klein and editor of interview and rolling stones.<br />

More than 200 pages of careful analysis tell the<br />

stories of these gallant courters of themselves,<br />

their style, attitudes and philosophy which translate<br />

into a dress style which is meticulously retro.<br />

to confirm the book’s thesis that dandysim is<br />

still today a full blown style phenomenon and<br />

lifestyle are the pe 2013 men’s fashion catwalks<br />

with pin striped suits matched with silk foulards<br />

165

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166<br />

by Canali, the tailored cuts of Massimo rebecchi’s<br />

jackets which bring the 1950s back to life<br />

and the taste for the dolce vita. the Fratelli rossetti<br />

have revisited two coloured shoes and navy<br />

blue next to optical white as worn by Cary grant<br />

and gregory peck. Marina yachting has returned<br />

to the classic montgomery in light material and<br />

dandy style accessories such as the Mark/giusti<br />

ipad holders in leather are there too. and then<br />

there are the edun brand dinner jackets, andrea<br />

pompilio’s pastel colours which combine sportswear<br />

and classic tastes and henry guillame’s<br />

printed shirts for Carven. Fashion week and pitti<br />

have shown us this. now we’re waiting for the<br />

autumn-winter collections and in the meantime<br />

all we can do is enjoy i am a dandy. the various<br />

gentlemen in it are involved in the most varied<br />

professions all over the world: there’s a russian illustrator,<br />

a brooklyn doctor, an english journalist,<br />

a japanese entrepreneur. Mr. Matt Fox, Mr. gay<br />

talese and Mr. sven raphael schneider are just<br />

some of the names of these picturesque personalities<br />

who tell their stories on the pages of this<br />

book while they pose for photographs in houses<br />

furnished like museums. bohemianism, aestheticism<br />

and decadentism seem to have come back<br />

to life and are currently reinventing modern male<br />

tastes. because it isn’t true that women only like<br />

muscles and virility. at the end of the day, that<br />

air of narcissism and ambiguity has always been<br />

intriguing. the timeless charm of the dandy.<br />

www.gestalten.com<br />

on the leFt:<br />

yoUng rUssian illUstrator<br />

Mr. fyoDor a. pavlov<br />

and detail oF his troUsers;<br />

the italian<br />

Mr. MassiMiliano<br />

Mocchia Di coGGiola;<br />

Mr. haMish BoWless<br />

in a pink tie. on this page:<br />

detail oF Mr. haMish<br />

BoWless’ gilet<br />

and Mr. Kevin WanG,<br />

graphiC designer,<br />

in a blUe jaCket<br />

with preCioUs jewellery.<br />

167

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schneiders<br />

in the dolomites<br />

the sissi and Franz loden<br />

By Delfina ashley<br />

168<br />

schneiDers new loden<br />

Coat For her.<br />

FroM leFt: a Forest green<br />

Cloak with hood<br />

and belt, an Unlined<br />

jaCket with open edges<br />

and doUble wool<br />

and Contrast piping,<br />

ConCealed press stUds<br />

and leather bUttons.<br />

on this page, a padded<br />

gilet with hood.<br />

169

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170<br />

the schneiDers<br />

ColleCtion For hiM,<br />

Fall-winter 2013-2014.<br />

sliM CUt Coat<br />

with horn seCtion gag<br />

and reMoVable hood.<br />

perhaps it’s the cold climate in the alps or the<br />

salzburg genius loci but there’s definitely something<br />

newly regal in the air.<br />

next autumn-winter sissi and Franz will be together<br />

once again on the tyrol peaks, at the<br />

schneiders maison no doubt.<br />

with this spirit in the forests and a certain ro-<br />

mantic and sporty allure, schneiders has dressed<br />

next autumn-winter 2013-14 couple in a return<br />

to the historic hubertus model dating to 1946<br />

and still considered the loden par excellence. he<br />

has dusted off the classic overcoat with a large<br />

pleat on the back and military inset sleeves and<br />

transformed it into his softer loden-walk style,<br />

or rather, a knitted loden focusing on a sharp,<br />

unlined cut. so schneiders has gone back to a<br />

four pocket overcoat (two applied, two diagonal)<br />

returning to the idea of the quilted zipped<br />

tecno-light gilet but toning it down in a ‘faux’<br />

version. he has gone for winter colours with<br />

austere and very hapsburg forest and olive<br />

greens, navy blues and browns. time seems to<br />

stand still in the schneiders maison which has<br />

made the loden its icon. it feels as if this label<br />

has just walked out of a late nineteenth century<br />

imperial castle picture gallery having decided<br />

to pay no heed to the vagaries of history but<br />

having let a breath of fresh air waft in through<br />

two jaCkets FroM<br />

schneiDers Fall-winter<br />

2013-2014. top right:<br />

For hiM, a ClassiC seMi-lined<br />

winter CashMere Coat<br />

or lUxUry wool with Fine<br />

hand-stitChed edge<br />

and down-ekF. on the leFt:<br />

For her, a jersey interloCk<br />

Collar with patCh poCkets<br />

and hand-stitChed edge<br />

CoMbined with silk<br />

or CashMere sweater<br />

and sliM troUsers.<br />

171

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172<br />

the robust windows of its salzburg headquarters<br />

however firmly anchored to tradition and<br />

love of the mountains and for fulling, an all important<br />

working technique for the making of<br />

a good loden fabric. a forest green cape coat<br />

with hood and high waist belt for her. a walk<br />

loden coat and hunting jacket with horn buttons<br />

and military shoulders for him. it is difficult<br />

to believe that loden have been around for<br />

more than 1000 years and are still in fashion. it<br />

seems almost impossible that certain dress and<br />

elegance legends can really be so timeless and<br />

yet manage to keep up with changing fashions<br />

and resist the winds of change - in fashion, his-<br />

tory and even cold winters. books teach us that<br />

the first to wear this characteristically mountain<br />

wool cloth were the peasants of the dolomites<br />

and the tyrol.<br />

it was emperor Franz joseph’s white cape which<br />

brought it into the aristocracy and made it for<br />

centuries the icon of the perfect prince - and this<br />

thanks also to his eternally romantic love story<br />

with princess sissi.<br />

sissi and Franz fell in love with these mountains<br />

and this loden centuries ago and they will do<br />

both once more this coming autumn-winter.<br />

schneiders guarantees it.<br />

www.schneiders.com<br />

on these pages, soMe<br />

jaCkets FroM schneiDers<br />

Fall-winter 2013-2014.<br />

loden is baCk in a ‘walk<br />

loden Coat’ way: lighter<br />

and soFt, with all its<br />

traditional eleMents<br />

inspired by the hoUse<br />

oF hapsbUrg and Forties<br />

style too.<br />

173

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01.2314<br />

8 Stafford Street, Mayfair, London w1s 4ru<br />

www.mrhare.com<br />

GentleMen’s Driver iMaGes & tales<br />

175

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audi tradition<br />

By alex BuGnon - photos By ferDinanDo cioffi anD auDi archives<br />

176<br />

a splendid View<br />

oF the entranCe to the auDi<br />

MuseuM with the seMi<br />

CylindriCal bUilding Used<br />

For teMporary exhibitions<br />

at the ingolstadt ‘Mobile<br />

MUseUM’ in the ForegroUnd.<br />

177

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soMe oF the splendid<br />

jewels whiCh yoU Can<br />

adMire inside the auDi<br />

MuseuM inClUding the Very<br />

rare 1932 horch 670<br />

(top right) or the eVen More<br />

diFFiCUlt to Find raCing<br />

aUto Union together with<br />

the Many Motorbikes<br />

Made by DKW withoUt<br />

Forgetting the oUtline<br />

oF the extraordinary<br />

racinG auto union type c<br />

(FaCing page, right).<br />

178<br />

“it takes history to make history”. with this straightforward<br />

statement thomas Frank, curator of the<br />

history museum audi tradition, describes the<br />

philosophy not only of the motorcars it contains<br />

but also of the entire audi brand. it is a veritable<br />

miniature company with more than 20 permanent<br />

employees which is responsible, in particular, for<br />

the maintenance of all the museum’s historic vehicles<br />

which participate in various events around<br />

the world, for constantly updating the history<br />

archive, for the mobile audi museum at the ingolstadt<br />

audi Forum as well as supporting the activities<br />

of the museum dedicated to august horch<br />

at zwickau. it was set up in 1998 with the aim of<br />

maintaining, preserving and supporting the audi<br />

tradition and, in particular, throwing light on the<br />

original journey which saw five brands - some of<br />

the most diverse in the history of the motorcar -<br />

merge definitively into the audi group ag in 1985.<br />

but what was this history and which brands were<br />

they that brought this iconic brand in the international<br />

motorcar panorama to life? here they<br />

are: horch & Cie Motorenwerke founded in far off<br />

1899, audiwerke (audi) founded in 1909 by august<br />

horch himself, wanderer - initially a bicycle<br />

and then motorbike manufacturer - dating back as<br />

far as 1885, dkw dating to 1902 and also involved<br />

in motorbike manufacturing at the outset, and,<br />

179

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aboVe, the 1955 DKW hoBBy<br />

scooter and, to the right,<br />

the Celebrated nsu tts<br />

DatinG to 1967<br />

and the Delphin iii,<br />

nsU onCe again, FroM 1956.<br />

180<br />

lastly, nsU which joined the group in1969. it is an<br />

extremely diverse panorama particularly if we bear<br />

in mind that the first merger led to the creation<br />

of auto Union ag in 1932, the year in which the<br />

celebrated four rings logo was first used on all the<br />

cars of the group. it was a logo which first made<br />

its impact in racing particularly thanks to the initial<br />

successes of legendary drivers such as rudolf<br />

Caracciola and the famous tazio nuvolari. at the<br />

end of world war two, in 1949, once the Chemnitz<br />

factories (right in the middle of occupied saxony)<br />

were expropriated by the soviet Union, the whole<br />

group moved to bavaria to its current ingolstadt<br />

site chosen by wealthy german shareholders because<br />

of its strategic position for logistical reasons<br />

and ease of access to the city, once an important<br />

german military base. From then on and for the<br />

next twenty years, the audi brand produced no<br />

more motorcars partly because of the technical<br />

and economic inadequacies of the company itself<br />

and partly because of the later strategic choice<br />

of daimler benz which, ironically, bought up the<br />

then auto Union-dwk in 1958 and then ceded<br />

it in 1964 to the company who is still now the<br />

‘four rings’ company’s main shareholder -Volkswagen<br />

who already in 1965 breathed new life<br />

into the audi brand by presenting audi 72 at the<br />

paris salon. the flipside to the limited commercial<br />

success of this 1972 launch was the later audi 80<br />

which finally restored the pre-war audi legend to<br />

its former glory and contributed in an extremely<br />

positive way to the arrival as company president<br />

the splendid 1936 wanderer<br />

W 40 caBriolet.<br />

181

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182<br />

top leFt the FaMoUs 1983<br />

auDi rallye quattro a2<br />

and below the extraordinary<br />

aUto Union d type together<br />

with other aMazing raCing<br />

Cars sUCh as, For exaMple,<br />

the extraordinary aUto<br />

union type c (top right).<br />

183

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top, a 1925 horch 10 50<br />

and below a 1939 horCh<br />

930 V and a 1930 horch 375.<br />

184<br />

at the beginning of the 1980s of Ferdinand piech,<br />

grandson of the great Ferdinand porsche, who is<br />

still the Volkswagen group’s number one. the rest<br />

is recent history with the extraordinary commercial<br />

and sporting success of the legendary audi<br />

Quattro - much desired by piech himself - which<br />

proved itself capable of winning a great many victories<br />

in the most prestigious international rallies<br />

of the 1980s and, more recently, the equally winning<br />

r8 which, from its debut in 1999 has been<br />

capable of gaining as many as 61 victories out of<br />

77 international races and even won as many as 5<br />

years running of the celebrated le Mans 24 hours.<br />

this is “the history it takes to make history” and it is<br />

this that is faithfully preserved in the audi tradition<br />

department and at the audi Museum in ingolstadt<br />

and in all the historic forms in which the ‘mobile<br />

museum’ has been involved. a few examples of<br />

what you can see inside? From the first 1929 eight<br />

cylinder audis to the elegant 1932 horch 670 via<br />

the very rare wanderer w 25 k (which regularly<br />

takes part in the Mille Miglia historical re-enactment)<br />

to say nothing of the beautiful dkw Monza<br />

or the auto Union type C which has taken part in<br />

the traditional goodwood festival of speed. and<br />

this because all the vehicles mentioned are totally<br />

driveable and are kept up by the audi tradition<br />

department which, in the recent past, has also<br />

boasted the honour of certain extraordinary restoration<br />

jobs for private clients such as, for example,<br />

those of the unforgettable auto Unions, the stars<br />

of the most prestigious international grand prix<br />

of the 1930s driven by their legendary and highly<br />

sophisticated 12 and 16 cylinder engines. all this is<br />

to tell you that, if you haven’t already been, a trip<br />

to ingolstadt is an absolute must for all car lovers<br />

and not only them and even more so if you have<br />

already found out if there is an exhibition in the<br />

museum when you visit.<br />

www.audi.com<br />

top a 1936 horch 853<br />

and below a 1914<br />

auDi type c.<br />

185

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186<br />

Vernasca silver Flag<br />

By franK niGht<br />

how many of us dreamed when we were just<br />

children, or still dream today - as adults with<br />

a successful career - of building a car by hand,<br />

a beautiful, powerful, fast vehicle with which<br />

to race through turns and straightaways, and<br />

maybe be the first to zip past the checkered flag.<br />

even though the Vernasca silver Flag is not a real<br />

speed race, that is the spirit that permeates the<br />

three-day meet (held in italy, in the apennine<br />

hills between parma and piacenza).<br />

the event is officially described as a “dynamic<br />

restoration and conservation contest for competition<br />

cars”, the asphalt has seen over 200 cars<br />

that have written the story of racing, many of<br />

the models from the big manufacturers like Ferrari<br />

and porsche, but many others hand-crafted,<br />

opening page:<br />

a 1913 peuGeot BeBè,<br />

whiCh Celebrated<br />

its 100th anniVersary<br />

aMidst 200 other Cars<br />

that ContribUted<br />

to writing the story oF<br />

italian and international<br />

aUtos. the eVent’s<br />

oFFiCial ChaMpagne<br />

is Maison veuve clicquot,<br />

with its VeUVe CliCQUot<br />

Fridge.<br />

187

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188<br />

the vernasca silver flaG<br />

eVent Celebrated<br />

its 18th edition in 2013.<br />

the castell’arquatovernasca<br />

speed road raCe<br />

was held FroM 1953<br />

to 1972 on a CirCUit<br />

oF 9.775 kM, halF Flat<br />

and halF Uphill,<br />

with 34 tUrns<br />

and gradients<br />

oF Up to 10%.<br />

189

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190<br />

from 1937 to the early seventies, using stock cars<br />

customized for racing. the cars that won “best<br />

of show” in this 18th edition were a 1934 Maserati<br />

“8cm” and a Ferrari “500 Mondial”, which<br />

competed in the Mille Miglia road race in 1955.<br />

a porsche “935 Fabcar” (1982) took the “spirit<br />

of Motoring” trophy, and the “ladies trophy”<br />

went to a 1951 Ferrari “212 berlinetta le Mans”<br />

owned by paolo Casella. special mention to the<br />

little 1937 siata “636 grand sport”, which was reproduced<br />

on the program as the official symbol<br />

of this edition. the drivers included the former<br />

prime Minister of belgium, guy Verhofstadta, behind<br />

the wheel of a 1959 elva “sport Mark iii”.<br />

while today’s event is a suggestive parade, with<br />

gentlemen enthusiasts at the wheel, the original<br />

Castell’arquato-Vernasca road race was run from<br />

1953 to 1972. the circuit was 9.775 km long, half<br />

flat and half uphill, with 34 turns and gradients<br />

of up to 10%. the inaugural edition featured 40<br />

vehicles, and the number rose to more than 100<br />

within a few years.<br />

yesterday there were winners and losers, but<br />

today everyone can uncork the bubbly, thanks<br />

to Maison Veuve Clicquot, the event’s official<br />

Champagne, with its Veuve Clicquot Fridge, a tip<br />

of the hat to the vintage auto world.<br />

www.vernascasilverflag.it<br />

aMong the Cars<br />

illUstrated, at leFt a 1926<br />

“fiat 501 s” and aboVe a 1960<br />

“stanGuellini f. junior”.<br />

191

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192<br />

uniques special ones<br />

in st petersBurG.<br />

top, the danCe interlUdes<br />

oF the theatre<br />

oF the opera and ballet<br />

oF the st petersBurG<br />

conservatory<br />

riMsKy-KorsaKov.<br />

right: the winner,<br />

an alFa roMeo 6C 2500 ss<br />

CoUpé with toUring<br />

sUperleggera bodywork<br />

dating to 1953.<br />

only twenty<br />

haVe sUrViVed.<br />

the tsarina<br />

of the Uniques<br />

special ones<br />

By paola perfetti<br />

193

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UniQUe MoMents<br />

For the ColleCtors<br />

oF the uniques special<br />

ones: as well as displaying<br />

the Models theMselVes<br />

(top leFt a bMw isetta<br />

300 three-wheeler (1959) -<br />

winner 7th Class post war)<br />

there were also syMphony<br />

ConCerts and a priVate Visit<br />

to the st petersBurG<br />

herMitaGe.<br />

194<br />

st petersburg like Florence? just this once and for<br />

the ‘uniques special ones’, the elegance race dedicated<br />

to unique, vintage cars. Created under the<br />

tuscan flag two years ago, this year it set off for a<br />

long distance trip. as they say: if Mohammed won’t<br />

go to the mountain and the majority of the vintage<br />

car collectors come from Central-eastern europe,<br />

it is worth going to them and moving the event’s<br />

third year to the cradle of humanism in the former<br />

soviet empire and the new crucible of art patrons<br />

and lovers of the beautiful. it is purely a geographic<br />

concession, i underline, because as far as history,<br />

style and motorcars are concerned, italy still knows<br />

what its doing. and it was an alfa romeo 6C 2500<br />

ss coupé with touring superleggera bodywork<br />

dating to 1953 that won the best of the show 2013<br />

with a trophy designed by stefano ricci (the main<br />

sponsor). Fewer than twenty of these have survived<br />

to the modern day and this one is owned by dutch<br />

hans ribbens. technique and aesthetics were the<br />

key factors in the authoritative and rigorous decision<br />

of the jury which enabled it to pip a 6C 2300<br />

b Mille Miglia sedan from 1938 to the post by a<br />

fraction. a special gazprom neft prize went to a 6C<br />

2500 s Cabriolet from 1943, a special model bodied<br />

by pinin Farina and owned by russian kostantin<br />

Moshkin. the others just looked on. and this was<br />

a total victory because: “Uniques is not just about<br />

cars”, the claim goes. and, in fact, collectors alone<br />

were offered a toast in the stefano ricci boutique in<br />

st petersburg, a private visit to the hermitage state<br />

Museum, a concert by the state hermitage symphony<br />

orchestra “st petersburg Camerata” directed<br />

by Maestro Fabio Mastrangelo (at the winter palace)<br />

and the dance interludes of thetheatre of the<br />

opera and ballet of the st petersburg Conservatory<br />

rimsky-korsakov accompanied by the hermitage<br />

orchestra quartet. and the lights of kirov park on<br />

yelagin island were all around.<br />

the tsars and lorenzo de’ Medici would have been<br />

very proud about the agreement and its elegance,<br />

the true empress of the event: an italian visiting st<br />

petersburg, the new tsarina of the uniques.<br />

www.uniquespecialones.com<br />

195

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urma: on the path<br />

of the burma road Classic<br />

By alex BuGnon<br />

196<br />

the First edition<br />

oF the BurMa roaD classic<br />

takes plaCe on the 27th<br />

oF oCtober and Finishes<br />

on the 10th oF noVeMber<br />

2013 Crossing 1100<br />

kiloMetres oF BurMa.<br />

197

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Vintage Cars bUilt beFore<br />

1970 are eligible.<br />

it is a UniQUe opportUnity<br />

to Visit lands between<br />

BanGlaDesh, inDia, china,<br />

laos and thailanD whiCh<br />

are rarely open to toUrists.<br />

198<br />

a dream, an idea, a great project and all in four<br />

simple words: the burma road Classic which<br />

is taking place this 27th october in the heart of<br />

burma, or rather the rally raid for vintage motorcars<br />

built before and after the great war (but no<br />

later than 1970). a dream, as i was saying, because<br />

of the passion for vintage cars and travels which<br />

bring together the two organisers of this singular<br />

race. burma - a former english colony and a military<br />

regime since 1988 – is re-opening to the west.<br />

an idea because, choosing the most suitable<br />

route of more than 1100 kilometres in total for the<br />

raid took more than two years of planning, tests<br />

and an infinite number of visits by technicians<br />

and specialised logistics staff. a great project in<br />

wich the departure planned for the 27th october<br />

this year from the city of yangon with the cars returning<br />

- after 16 days racing - on the 10th of november,<br />

is requiring an enormous mobilisation of<br />

human and economic resources and will be one<br />

of the most ambitious international projects of recent<br />

years in the context of the United republic<br />

the United repUbliC<br />

oF BurMa or MyanMar<br />

has More than 50 Million<br />

inhabitants diVided into 135<br />

diFFerent ethniC groUps.<br />

199

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200<br />

of burma or Myanmar as it is currently called by its<br />

more than 50 million inhabitants. it is an itinerary<br />

which looks relatively simple at first glance but actually,<br />

considering the type of vehicle taking part,<br />

it encompasses a number of risks which will make<br />

it even more enjoyable for its participants thanks<br />

to wonderful views since it passes through places<br />

such as bago, inle lake, bagan, Mount popa, pindaya<br />

or kalaw and many others. For those who<br />

have never had the chance to visit burma, it is a<br />

unique opportunity to see magical places which<br />

very few tourists venture while for those who al-<br />

ready know this area of south western asia on the<br />

border with bangadesh, india, China, laos and<br />

thailand well, it is a unique opportunity to get<br />

behind the wheel of one’s own vintage car in a<br />

unique and original backdrop. the insatiable can<br />

extend their trip for an extra week for a total of<br />

1430 kilometres with breathtaking views in the<br />

heart of one of the most beautiful regions of the<br />

world surrounded by the warmth of its people<br />

and the unique colours of this wonderful land<br />

with its 135 different ethnic groups.<br />

www.theburmaroadclassic.com<br />

this First year<br />

oF the raCe has Meant<br />

two years oF intense work<br />

For the organisers<br />

inVolVing teChniCal<br />

and logistiCal Visits<br />

and tests.<br />

201

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202<br />

bugatti legend edition<br />

By roMano torre Bianca<br />

it was 1937 when test driver jean pierre wimmile<br />

won the le Mans 24 hours on board a bugatti<br />

type 57g tank. and it was a success he repeated<br />

two years later. it is to this and five other stories<br />

and the same number of personalities that this<br />

French house has decided to devote its legend<br />

edition of the bugatti Veyron 16.4 grand sport<br />

Vitesse. the international preview of this exclusive<br />

project took place under an august sun at<br />

pebble beach in California. one unmistakable<br />

and incredible motorcar next to another.<br />

only three of the most modern - the jean pierre<br />

wimille - will be made with an 8 litre w16 and<br />

1200 horsepower capable of accelerating from<br />

0 to 100km/h in 2.6 seconds and getting up to<br />

a maximum speed of 408.84km/h. in fact this car<br />

holds the record for the fastest standard roadster<br />

in the world. these are speeds which are much<br />

higher than those of the past but not more difficult<br />

for this. Quite the contrary, the vehicles<br />

and motorcars which made motorcar history put<br />

their drivers to the test on every single metre of<br />

tarmac. jean pierre wimille sadly died in january<br />

1949 in buenos aires during trials for the grand<br />

prix at the wheel of an alfetta 158.<br />

the second version of the limited edition of the<br />

French car belonging to the Volkswagen group,<br />

the bugatti legend edition jean bugatti, was presented<br />

at the Frankfurt Motor show. this jewel<br />

(only 3 models) is dedicated to gianroberto Carlo<br />

rembrandt ettore bugatti - nicknamed jean - the<br />

first of the founder of the motorcar house ettore<br />

bugatti’s four sons.<br />

www.bugatti.com<br />

the BuGatti type 57g<br />

tank, winner oF two<br />

editions oF the le Mans<br />

24 hoUrs driVen<br />

by jean pierre WiMille.<br />

the legend edition<br />

oF the BuGatti veyron 16.4<br />

GranD sport vitesse<br />

was dediCated to these<br />

aChieVeMents.<br />

203

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204 FRAGRANZA D’AMBIENTE<br />

drvranjes.it

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aboVe, the 1964 aston<br />

Martin db5 Used by jaMes<br />

BonD in seVeral FilMs.<br />

only two were eVer Made<br />

with extras For a trUe<br />

seCret agent: MaChine<br />

gUns, bUlletprooF<br />

windsCreen, rotating<br />

liCense plate, oil and nails<br />

spreader and sMoke<br />

sCreen with the hidden<br />

Control switChes<br />

in the Central arM.<br />

206<br />

aston Martin’s 100th<br />

By roMano torre Bianca<br />

two numbers on everything: 100 and 0<strong>07</strong>. the<br />

first, is the birthday aston Martin is celebrating<br />

this summer in kensington gardens in london<br />

- just a short distance away from william and<br />

kate’s house - and the second is the number of<br />

the famous secret agent with whom this motorcar<br />

producer has always made an unbeatable<br />

twosome. From the 550 cars which came from all<br />

over the world, prime position went to the 1964<br />

aston Martin db5, the star together with james<br />

bond, of films such as goldfinger and thunderball<br />

and the more recent skyfall. only two models<br />

were made one which was sold at an auction<br />

during this event with a starting price of 4.7 million<br />

dollars and equipped with all the 0<strong>07</strong> extras:<br />

machine guns, bullet proof windscreen, rotating<br />

license plate, oil and nails spreader, smoke screen<br />

and hidden control switches in the central arm.<br />

the history of modern aston Martin began in<br />

1913 with the combined skills and know how of<br />

mechanic robert bamford and pilot lionel Martin.<br />

First they opened a car dealer called bamford<br />

and Martin and then they built their first racing car<br />

which won the london-aston Clinton race which<br />

gave them their final name aston Martin. world<br />

war one brought the project to a halt and it then<br />

passed into the hands of various men whose skills<br />

and luck were of fundamental importance in creating<br />

- both on the race track and the road - the<br />

modern day legend. the oldest surviving model is<br />

an a3 from 1921. and these were present at the<br />

london event alongside Vanquish Volante, the<br />

zagato and bertone concepts and everything in<br />

between representing the around 65 thousand<br />

cars built over aston Martin’s 100 year history.<br />

www.astonmartin.com<br />

on these pages,<br />

a Few iMages oF aston<br />

Martin’s 100th birthday<br />

Celebrations at lonDon’s<br />

KensinGton GarDens<br />

and centenary eDition<br />

vanquish.<br />

all Models to date<br />

were there FroM<br />

the 1921 a3 onwards.<br />

2<strong>07</strong>

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208<br />

209

---

Cuervo y sobrinos Cup<br />

From bormio to the legendary alpine passes<br />

By flavio incarBone - photos By lyle f. roBlin<br />

210<br />

the opening photo,<br />

+a 1959 jaGuar xK 150<br />

driVen by Dutch jan<br />

and Maria venninG.<br />

the oldest Car<br />

in the raCe was a 1925<br />

bUgatti 35a Followed<br />

by a 1928 rolls royce ex 17<br />

sports phantoM.<br />

the Most reCent were<br />

a ferrari Daytona spyDer<br />

and a lancia fulvia coupé<br />

both dating to 1971.<br />

211

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the BorMio baCkdrop aCted<br />

as starting and Finishing<br />

post For the three<br />

Challenging days<br />

oF raCing.<br />

top, patron Marzio villa<br />

in his 1956 alfa roMeo<br />

Giulietta sprint VeloCe<br />

with Co-driVer Mrs Maria<br />

cristina aBello.<br />

212<br />

the stelvio pass, the Mortirolo, the gavia pass,<br />

the bernina st. Moritz, ligno, and then obviously<br />

bormio as the starting and finishing point of the<br />

first year of this Cuervo y sobrinos Cup, a regularity<br />

race for vintage cars. there were 61 crews<br />

at the starting blocks from italy but also many<br />

from spain, england, switzerland, germany, austria,<br />

holland, France, russia and australia as well<br />

and, to underline the international character of an<br />

event which not only brought the watchmaking<br />

house scuderia tricolore from reggio emilia (led<br />

by president luigi orlandini) and Canossa events<br />

onto the race track but also boasted partners such<br />

as Credit suisse and jaguar. the gala dinners and<br />

prize ceremonies took place at the grand hotel<br />

bagni nuovi in bormio where the crews stayed.<br />

on the podium were Mozzi-biacca (triumph tr 2<br />

from 1955), gamberini-Fabbri (alfa romeo giuli-<br />

213

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214<br />

etta from 1956) and Massara-schira (lancia Fulvia<br />

hF 12 from 1966). “i’ve been coming to bormio<br />

since i was a child and 61 years wandering by<br />

these streets have given me the love for bormio<br />

and the whole Valtellina” said Marzio Villa, the<br />

race’s patron and president of Cuervo y sobrinos,<br />

“i have a great affection for a country which i feel<br />

a citizen of. i had been wondering for some time<br />

what i could do to bring together my three great<br />

passions: this area, watches and vintage cars... and<br />

that’s how Cuervo y sobrinos Cup was born”. the<br />

race featured some stupendous cars which enchanted<br />

the bormio public for the three days of<br />

the race: 208 km on the first day (italy-switzerlandaustria),<br />

218 km the second day (italy-switzerland),<br />

113 km on sunday (italy) for a total of almost 540<br />

km - with bugatti, rolls-royce, Ferrari, porsche,<br />

jaguar and many other valuable cars which have<br />

made and are still making motorcar history.<br />

www.cuervoysobrinos-cup.com<br />

215

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216<br />

driving Mercedes Cla 220<br />

By flavio incarBone - photos By lyle f. roBlin<br />

starting point, the Mercedes-benz Center in<br />

Milan in the direction of bormio. we followed<br />

the first year of the Cuervo y sobrinos Cup trying<br />

out the Mercedes Cla 220 Cdi automatic in its<br />

sport version and an attractive red livery. More<br />

than 1200 kilometres from the motorways of the<br />

po plains to the hair pin bends of the stelvio pass.<br />

the Cla can boast the best aerodynamics in<br />

the world (0.22 cx) and, like the 2003 Cls, has<br />

claimed a new segment of the car market.<br />

a sporty design both inside and out, it is avantgarde,<br />

elegant and comfortable with lots of<br />

horsepower, 7 gears, 18” alloy wheel rims,<br />

audio20 tablet multimedia system with blue-<br />

tooth interface and, last but not least, a standard<br />

brake system equipped with Collision prevent<br />

assist radar which, in its latest, perfected update<br />

warns you of obstacles at speeds starting with 7<br />

km/h rather than the previous 30 km/h.<br />

the four doors are like those of a coupé, without<br />

busbars. its tested automatic dual-clutch<br />

gearbox is extremely fast and the options are<br />

economic, sporty or manual. the horsepower is<br />

tangible: 170 on our car with a 2.142 cc engine<br />

and a maximum speed of 230 km/h.<br />

and this can reach 360 horsepower on the Cla<br />

45 aMg 4MatiC.<br />

www.mercedes-benz.com<br />

217

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218<br />

the big clash<br />

Vivienne westwood<br />

and Malcom Mclaren<br />

By luca crescenzi<br />

it is well known that there have been moments in<br />

cultural history and the history of fashion in which,<br />

for reasons that we might call synchronicity, luck or<br />

simply destiny, great artists, avant-garde ingenuity<br />

and enlightened thinkers have crossed paths in a<br />

specific, well-defined space. think of Florence in the<br />

second half of the fifteenth century or paris in the<br />

twenties or capital cities like new york and london<br />

in the last few decades of the twentieth century.<br />

and, focusing on the english capital which has long<br />

occupied centre stage in our popular culture from<br />

1960s swinging london to the punk of the decade<br />

that followed right up to the thatcher period with<br />

the british music invasion which has conquered<br />

the world. a multitude of fashions have come from<br />

across the Channel beginning with Mary Quant and<br />

biba via bodymap, pam hog and stephen jones in<br />

the 1980s without missing out Vivienne westwood<br />

obviously who was the forerunner for later generations<br />

of talented english designers including john<br />

galliano, antonio berardi and alexander McQueen.<br />

and it is precisely on Vivienne and her legendary<br />

partnership with Malcolm Mclaren that i want to<br />

focus here. theirs was a totally creative collision<br />

which was, in some ways, devastating. when they<br />

met he had already dipped into and out of a number<br />

of artistic schools and was attracted by situationism<br />

(which promoted provocative action as<br />

Upper leFt:<br />

vivienne WestWooD,<br />

red label.<br />

Upper right:<br />

vivienne WestWooD<br />

portrait, both iMages<br />

CoUrtesy oF Marta<br />

laMovseK.<br />

219

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Upper leFt: First biba store<br />

on aBinGDon roaD,<br />

KensinGton, lonDon<br />

and soMe oF her Creations.<br />

Upper right: carnaBy sreet,<br />

lonDon.<br />

220<br />

a means with which to change society), she was<br />

married with a child.<br />

the first effect of this meeting was the break up<br />

of Vivienne’s marriage to derek westwood - her<br />

maiden name was actually swire. and soon after<br />

they opened that shop in king’s road in london<br />

which would change its name continually (let it<br />

rock, then sex, then too Fast to live too young<br />

to die, then seditionaries and lastly world’s end)<br />

which was to change the history of fashion. it was<br />

1971.perhaps not everyone knows that before he<br />

set up the sex pistols and all that followed on from<br />

it - including in the collective imagination in which<br />

it is still inspirational now - Malcolm Mclaren had<br />

auditioned in the big apple with another group,<br />

the new york dolls, who are now universally acclaimed<br />

as the precursors of punk rock. and it was<br />

precisely these outrageous, over-the-top ‘dolls’<br />

whose costumes Mclaren commissioned Vivienne<br />

to design and produce entirely in red material, including<br />

sM inspired vinyl, which put them on the<br />

stage with a communist flag and a hammer and<br />

sickle in the background. the adventure of the new<br />

york dolls soon ended and Malcolm returned to<br />

london to think up “the greatest confidence trick<br />

in rock ‘n’ roll” - as julian temple’s documentary<br />

telling the story of the rise and fall of the sex pistols<br />

from Mclaren’s exclusive, totalitarian point of view<br />

would call it a few years later. neither the sex pistols<br />

nor anyone else in this story had a straightforward<br />

or unidirectional life. at the outset the band was<br />

called the strand and john lydon (later rebaptised<br />

johnny rotten) who was selected by Mclaren in<br />

1975 wasn’t in it yet. lydon was a frequent visitor<br />

to the westwood/Mclaren shop which was called<br />

sex at the time but was soon to be renamed seditionaries.<br />

torn clothes, safety pins, porn iconography, provocative<br />

slogans, bondage and chains: punk style<br />

was born, the shop was its temple and Vivienne<br />

and Malcolm its undisputed high priests. it has<br />

been suggested that the stylist took some of the<br />

elements in punk style from american musician<br />

richard hell but no-one is entirely original and<br />

genius consists in then creating something which<br />

has never been seen before. the rest is music and<br />

fashion history: the success of the sex pistols, god<br />

save the Queen which came out on the day of the<br />

Queen’s jubilee and immediately soared to the<br />

top of the charts, the mythology expertly created<br />

around it by Mclaren, punk dress codes, rotten<br />

leaving the band, the break up of the band and the<br />

tragic finale of the love story between sid Vicious<br />

and nancy spungen at new york’s Chelsea hotel.<br />

later Vivienne and Mclaren worked together on<br />

the first two collections - pirates and buffalo girls<br />

- designed by westwood under the world’s end<br />

label which picked what they wanted from history<br />

and the third world, native american culture and<br />

the women of peru and entered the halls of legend.<br />

then they went their separate ways both as a couple<br />

and professionally. Mclaren devoted himself<br />

to his musical projects from adam and the ants<br />

to bow wow wow and produced his own albums<br />

which moved from hip hop to combinations of<br />

opera and electronic music to voguing - launched<br />

before Madonna - in an always expert balancing act<br />

between genius and hoax. Vivienne continued her<br />

journey through culture and fashion history which<br />

took her in 1985 to the creation of Mini-Crini which<br />

marked a turning point in her career in which she<br />

combined english savile row traditions and tartan<br />

fabrics with silhouettes taken from earlier centuries<br />

expertly combined with her characteristic irreverence<br />

and seditionary attitude.<br />

Quirino Conti has written this of her working style:<br />

“(…) she paid great attention to the eighteenth<br />

century but also to the seventeenth and sixteenth<br />

centuries as long as it was english - even adam -<br />

which she reconstructed and reassembled with the<br />

highly unusual spatial sense of another englishman,<br />

Charles james, and a nineteenth century tournure<br />

en strapontin”.<br />

and to conclude, a son was born from the Mclarenwestwood<br />

collision, joseph Corré (the surname is<br />

that of the maternal grandmother of his father, a<br />

sephardic jew from portugal) who founded the famous<br />

sexy lingerie brand agent provocateur with<br />

his wife serena rees in 1994. definitely a matter of<br />

‘talis pater, talis filius’ though, in this case, this latin<br />

saying needs updating to include the maternal role<br />

and what a role it was!<br />

and it was serena herself who pronounced some<br />

particularly spot-on comments about her exmother-in-law<br />

(yes, in the meantime she and joseph<br />

split up and gave the company up): “the great<br />

brands are selling a lifestyle not just clothing. but<br />

all Vivienne’s attention was focused on the clothes.<br />

she never played a part in the fashion game”.<br />

god save the Queen.<br />

Upper leFt<br />

vivienne WestWooD<br />

in her shop “let it roCk” 1971,<br />

photo: DaviD parKinson © .<br />

CoUrtesy oF vivienne<br />

WestWooD.<br />

Upper right, an iMage<br />

oF johnny rotten,<br />

with handwritten notes.<br />

photo: roy stevenson © .<br />

CoUrtesy oF vivienne<br />

WestWooD<br />

lower leFt, inVite<br />

oF the First MClaren/<br />

westwood ColleCtion<br />

FroM 1981, titled “pirates”.<br />

photo: anDy earl © .<br />

CoUrtesy oF vivienne<br />

WestWooD.<br />

221

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222<br />

palme d’or<br />

and the red Carpet<br />

By susanna tanzi<br />

It is generally agreed that this year’s festival has seen quality cinema and great<br />

success for the big screen. But how much is involvement in the Venice Film<br />

Festival worth for sponsors and brands? Certainly, in image terms, this 70th year<br />

of the Festival has been a business success. For its stars...<br />

how much is involvement worth in the Venice<br />

Film Festival - the key event in the biennial which<br />

attracts cinema lovers, fans and, above all lots of<br />

international film stars whose boats land on the<br />

lido to a wealth of paparazzi flashes and focused<br />

lenses -? For the brands who supported this 70th<br />

year of the event, a great deal of visibility and prestige.<br />

it is a brand awareness operation which sees<br />

the financial investment of the companies present<br />

multiply every year and which gives visibility both<br />

in italy and abroad to the work of those who have<br />

expended time and energy on the most important<br />

cultural and fashion events of the italian summer<br />

season. opening the dance - or rather the screenings<br />

- was the traditional cocktail with Ferrari fizz<br />

on the beautiful terrace of the hotel danieli with<br />

a view of san Marco and the grand Canal. in part-<br />

nership with the Variety magazine, the glamour<br />

event par excellence, was la notte dei dreamers<br />

which hosted the president of the Festival’s jury,<br />

bernardo bertolucci, the evening’s guest of honour,<br />

with great affection and enthusiasm. skies<br />

the colour of Canaletto’s paintings, with lightning<br />

in the background, made the location even<br />

more scenic. once again in a super high security<br />

danieli, 250 guests brought an important event<br />

to life and put the seal to ever increasing agreements<br />

and co-productions between the west and<br />

China - the presentation of the next beijing Film<br />

Festival. another night, another exclusive terrace<br />

for Maserati, the event’s main sponsor in its most<br />

glamorous venue with a splendid view of the sea<br />

and the excelsior beaches. off the red carpet, after<br />

travelling along the whole seafront in Maserati’s<br />

Bespoke’s 7<br />

unmissaBle films...<br />

• Gravity by alFonso CUàron<br />

with george Clooney and sandra<br />

bUlloCk. starry and speCtaCUlar,<br />

the right aMoUnt oF irony<br />

and an aMeriCan soUl.<br />

• tracKs by john CUrran.<br />

poetiC and libertarian, Very 1970s,<br />

the story oF a girl who Crosses<br />

the aUstralian desert with FoUr<br />

CaMels and a dog.<br />

• suMMer 82 when zappa CaMe<br />

to siCily by salVo CUCCia.<br />

a re-eVoCation italian style<br />

oF a legendary toUr that<br />

the direCtor didn’t Manage<br />

to get to in tiMe.<br />

• philoMena by stephen Frears.<br />

aFter 50 years a Mother goes<br />

to look For a son who was taken<br />

FroM her at birth by a heartless<br />

nUn in an orphanage in ireland.<br />

MagniFiCent, Very british sCript.<br />

• locKe by steVen knight.<br />

the star is exCellent, Cold<br />

blooded and Chilli hot,<br />

talking on his Mobile phone<br />

For the whole FilM, in the Car,<br />

to resolVe diFFiCUlt personal<br />

and proFessional issUes.<br />

• still life by Uberto pasolini.<br />

exCellent exerCise in style<br />

in whiCh FUnerals are a Metaphor<br />

For solitUde.<br />

• razreDni sovrazniK (class<br />

eneMy) by rok biCek.<br />

Very interesting and well<br />

aCted sloVenian FilM,<br />

the longest standing oVation<br />

to the the yoUng aCtors present.<br />

… and 3 to avoid<br />

• MoeBius by kiM ki-dUk.<br />

exaggerately splatter,<br />

it adds nothing to the FilM<br />

Career oF the (oVer) FaMoUs<br />

korean direCtor.<br />

• Die frau Des poliKzisten<br />

by philip groning.<br />

alMost three sleep-indUCing<br />

hoUrs oF gerMan FilM diVided<br />

Up into 50 Mini Chapters<br />

For a prediCtable ending.<br />

• the canyons by paUl sChrader.<br />

pointless para-hollywood<br />

exerCise on the oVer analysed<br />

ViCes oF a Certain Cross-atlantiC<br />

star systeM.<br />

223

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224<br />

elegant vehicles, everyone passed through: actors<br />

and starlets, great directors and intellectuals,<br />

young film-makers, top screenwriters and telematic<br />

explorers of new means of communication.<br />

george Clooney and sandra bullock, james Franco<br />

and scarlett johansson, emma dante and william<br />

Friedkin and then laura Morante, nicolas Cage, gia<br />

Coppola, james deen and Mia wasikowska finally<br />

greeted the accredited journalists and experts in<br />

this exclusive location, with relaxed faces and genuine<br />

smiles. then a shower of diamonds on the<br />

Maserati terrace for the kinèo cinema prize giving<br />

ceremony. the awards included sabrina Ferilli for<br />

la grande bellezza, gabriele salvatores for siberian<br />

education and ennio Moricone for the soundtrack<br />

of the best offer. laura Morante and Margherita<br />

buy were the guests of honour. in the glass cube<br />

of the disaronno Contemporary terrace, another<br />

leading (and led) brand of the Festival debates and<br />

lively encounters (like that of the little wizard, who<br />

has become a wizard of seduction, daniel radcliffe<br />

sang a highly personal karaoke) included legendary<br />

Frank zappa’s wife among those appearing in<br />

the surprising docu-film summer 82 when zappa<br />

Came to sicily by salvo Cucci, Mal from the primitives<br />

in a high energy performance in piper style<br />

and Capannina. and all this around the exclusive<br />

meeting places linked to the brand on lido, the<br />

party went on for the whole Festival in the most<br />

exclusive buildings of the lagoon. the most<br />

clicked was the one which saw the fine watchmaking<br />

brand jaeger le Coultre centre stage in<br />

support of the emergency charity campaign. riccardo<br />

scamarcio, who presented a preview of<br />

his short film Freetown 2013 filmed in a hospital<br />

in this african city, was the star of the evening.<br />

the sumptuous dinner for the tenth anniversary<br />

of Vanity Fair at Fondazione Cini on the island of<br />

san giorgio was also marked out for the number<br />

of those present and its glamour. then there was<br />

a great ferment of glamourous clothes designed<br />

by armani, dolce & gabbana, alberta Ferretti, stella<br />

Mc Cartney, givenchy and bottega Veneta worn<br />

with nonchalance by the best of the cultural and<br />

business bourgeoisie. andrea and stefano rosso of<br />

diesel, antonio gallo and Marta brivio sforza, teresa<br />

Missoni, Marta Ferri and Massimiliano Finazzer<br />

Flory… and the master of the culinary ceremonies,<br />

Michelin starred chef emanuele scarello. and to<br />

lighten the image of the Festival marathon were<br />

the soap bubbles which were blown over jaeger<br />

le Coultre’s red carpet for emergency by the<br />

many celebrities present. perhaps as a tribute to<br />

those which paul McCartney had float down onto<br />

his successful rockshow tour in 1975. the fabulous<br />

seventies...<br />

the oFFiCial seleCtion<br />

was a ColleCtion oF 54<br />

FUll length FilMs diVided<br />

into the Following<br />

seCtions: Venezia (20 FilMs),<br />

FUori ConCorso (17)<br />

and orizzonti (17).<br />

225

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226<br />

just call me<br />

Camo<br />

By paola perfetti<br />

Camouflage it is, in the sense that if we were to<br />

look at it as a whole, the spring-summer 2014<br />

menswear collection draws its color palette from<br />

camouflage tones, the colors of the earth. it looks<br />

up-to-the-minute trendy. but “Camouflage” isn’t,<br />

and like a genuine chameleon disguised in the<br />

jungle of fashion trends and the thousands of<br />

ways to compile a man’s wardrobe, this style becomes<br />

“camo”. a less democratic look, much more<br />

inspired and discreet. For connoisseurs.<br />

in the new “camo”, structured suits soften up<br />

and break the rules. the gray, green, brown and<br />

khaki of the classic military garb transforms into<br />

floral patterns and green highlights when the<br />

227

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in these pages:<br />

GaBriele pasini, CapsUle<br />

ColleCtion spring-sUMMer<br />

2014 preView.<br />

dinner jaCket<br />

with shawl Collar<br />

in caMouflaGe print<br />

Cotton gobelins FabriC;<br />

waterprooF Cotton<br />

jaCQUard dUstCoat<br />

in Madras print and silk<br />

sCarVes with paisley design;<br />

jaCkets, pants, hats, gloVes,<br />

shoes, bags: FroM prinCe<br />

oF wales to sUede, here’s<br />

the new “caMo” style.<br />

228<br />

eye brings them into focus. those “military style”<br />

berets, scarves and trousers evoke the world of<br />

london –arabesques from the turn of the last<br />

century that perfectly suit even the most extroverted<br />

and meticulous dandy. it is a cheeky and<br />

irreverent take on tradition, but a lot of schooling<br />

went into this “camo school”. to break the rules<br />

you have to know that jacquards can blend with<br />

satin, that wool blends with mohair, that a man can<br />

wear a tuxedo vest with double-creased bermuda<br />

shorts with a prince of wales pattern, and when<br />

the earth colors give way to the black of night, the<br />

cuts get longer: that “just so” look is never out of<br />

place, even on opening night at la scala. l’uomo<br />

è mobile [Man is voluble], much more so than a<br />

woman. a man loves to distinguish himself, camouflaged<br />

in apparent simplicity but surprising with<br />

unique combinations. so don’t call it just “camouflage”:<br />

according to gabriele pasini, whose work<br />

we admired at a preview at lardini during the<br />

Milan Fashion week, even the classic three-piece<br />

suit can be microprinted and worn with a V-neck<br />

t-shirt. and he proposes maxi leather bags with<br />

ethnic patterned silk scarves and ascot caps that<br />

recall the english countryside, with twin-buckled<br />

suede shoes and napa leather half finger gloves.<br />

“don’t call it just camouflage” : it’s a new way of<br />

looking at refinement and style. pasini dixit, and he<br />

just might be right.<br />

www.lardini.it<br />

229

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LEGALYACHT ® - INTERNATIONAL PROFESSIONAL (LEGAL AND TAX) ADVISORY SERVICES ON YACHTS, MEGA YACHTS AND GIGA YACHTS<br />

orient - express<br />

a dream on rails<br />

By BeBa Marsano<br />

Consigning it to history has been the task of literature<br />

and then cinema with that masterpiece<br />

of suspense and style called Murder on the orient<br />

express by agatha Christie. thanks to her, the<br />

blue and gold carriages of the Compagnie internationale<br />

des wagons-lits have a firm place in the<br />

popular imagination as places of luxury, intrigue<br />

and mystery played out in the midst of the velvet,<br />

brass and wood panelling of the only train in the<br />

world which can boast the service, cuisine and atmosphere<br />

of a grand hotel. epitome of the belle<br />

époque from 1883 to 1977 the orient express travelled<br />

between paris and istanbul every day. and<br />

back again. it was a long and adventurous journey<br />

which, before the direct train line was completed in<br />

1889 involved passengers who included crowned<br />

heads, aristocrats, diplomats, businessmen and<br />

rich bourgeoisie in complex transport connections<br />

in the top photo<br />

the legendary blUe<br />

and gold Carriages<br />

oF the orient express,<br />

the passenger trains<br />

pUt in serViCe by CoMpagnie<br />

internationale des<br />

wagons-lits, whiCh linked<br />

paris gare de l’est<br />

with istanBul. BeGinninG<br />

on the 4th oF oCtober 1883<br />

the serViCe deFinitiVely<br />

CaMe to an end<br />

on the 19th oF May 1977<br />

and then started Up again<br />

on the 25th oF May 1982<br />

as an exClUsiVe rail CrUise<br />

For reFined and nostalgiC<br />

traVellers.<br />

231

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232<br />

in these pages,<br />

three iMages whiCh eVoke<br />

the Fantasies oF lUxUry<br />

and eleganCe ConjUred Up<br />

by this legendary train<br />

FroM its First appearanCe<br />

on the historiCal sCene.<br />

the golden age oF<br />

the orient express was<br />

the 1930s with three<br />

parallel roUtes<br />

in operation, the orient<br />

express, the siMplon<br />

orient express<br />

and the arlberg-orient<br />

express whiCh joUrneyed<br />

FroM zurich and innsBrucK<br />

to BuDapest with wagons<br />

lit For Bucarest<br />

and athens.<br />

233

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234<br />

aboVe, two orient<br />

express stewards<br />

in white gloVes<br />

and wearing<br />

their elegant<br />

tUrQUoise liVery<br />

with gold riMs.<br />

next to it is a detail<br />

oF onboard serViCe<br />

whiCh is FaMoUsly<br />

MetiCUloUs with<br />

sophistiCated FrenCh<br />

CUisine serVed<br />

in the Midst<br />

oF the VelVets<br />

oF the restaUrant Car<br />

on Fine porCelain<br />

and silVer CroCkery.<br />

including getting off in giurgiu in romania and<br />

crossing the danube in a boat to ruse in bulgaria,<br />

getting on another train for Varna on the black sea<br />

and continuing from there by ferry to istanbul. it<br />

was a journey which let lose the fantasies of writers<br />

from bram stoker who mentions it in his famous<br />

dracula, graham greene who set stamboul train<br />

on it and ian Fleming who imagines james bond<br />

escaping on it in From russia with love. today<br />

orient express trains, given a fresh flush of youth<br />

in 1982 by hotel tycoon james b. sherwood, offer<br />

exclusive rail cruises for travellers with refined and<br />

nostalgic tastes. Chugging slowly along into the<br />

most picturesque corners of the planet, as eastern<br />

and orient express does with three convoys and a<br />

range of new itineraries in south east asia which<br />

wind their way through rainforests, rice fields and<br />

tea plantations taking in enchanting places which<br />

can often only be reached by rail. the highlights<br />

of the journey include the spectacular angkor<br />

archaeological site in Cambodia, the ancient city<br />

of luang prabang in laos which is full of temples,<br />

ancient palaces and colonial architecture and has<br />

been put onto the UnesCo world heritage site list<br />

and the khao yai national park, part of thailand’s<br />

natural heritage. one curiosity: the singaporebangkok<br />

line via kuala lumpur and penang passes<br />

over the celebrated bridge over the river kwai<br />

which was immortalised by david lean in his 1957<br />

film with william holden and alec guinness who<br />

won an oscar for best actor for this film.<br />

www.orient-express.com<br />

FaCing page,<br />

the orient express Under<br />

way while it traVels<br />

throUgh the Corner<br />

oF one oF the Most<br />

piCtUresQUe landsCapes<br />

oF its roUtes throUgh<br />

the Most attraCtiVe plaCes<br />

on the planet.<br />

below, a photograM<br />

oF the FaMoUs the bridge<br />

oVer the river KWai (1957)<br />

direCted by DaviD lean<br />

starrinG alec Guinness<br />

and WilliaM holDen based<br />

on the noVel oF the saMe<br />

naMe by pierre Boulle.<br />

river KWai is one<br />

oF the highlights<br />

oF the eastern<br />

and oriental express.<br />

235

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236<br />

bringing polo home<br />

By rocío p. vallejo<br />

an ambitious but somehow romantic concept<br />

that evolved into a great and thrilling event: the<br />

arena polo world Cup at baku azerbaijan, home<br />

to the ancestral game of chovgan, a special training<br />

program practiced more than 2,400 years<br />

ago for cavalry troops that evolved into modernday<br />

polo in the 19th century. the arena polo<br />

world Cup was the first polo tournament played<br />

in the region. “bringing polo home”, a slogan<br />

that clearly evoked what M. ahadpur khangah<br />

had in mind. baku welcomed the “sport of kings”<br />

and honored the origins of this regal sport.<br />

three days of matches and additional activities<br />

allowed the enthusiastic audience of 10.000<br />

spectators to witness an historical moment, reviving<br />

the cultural heritage and opening a wide<br />

open door to a fantastic tournament.<br />

Four international top class teams from argentina,<br />

the Usa, great britain and germany competed<br />

for the trophy and played at the highest<br />

level showing that endurance and fair game<br />

reward every effort. the venue for the matches<br />

was the newly constructed outdoor polo-arena<br />

at the elite equestrian Centre in baku, having<br />

la Martina<br />

oFFiCial sUpplier.<br />

ChoVgan players<br />

at the opening<br />

oF the arena polo<br />

WorlD cup azerBaijan<br />

at BaKu.<br />

237

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238<br />

intense MoMents liVed<br />

dUring the MatChes<br />

at the toUrnaMent.<br />

la Martina as official supplier. a friendly match<br />

was held between the azeri team and one of the<br />

teams of the tournament as one of the highlights<br />

of the event. the program included something<br />

for everybody, with entertainment and activities,<br />

an argentinian gaucho party, tango on the field<br />

and live music.<br />

not only a competitive encounter but one of the<br />

most captivating polo interpretations.<br />

www.lamartina.com<br />

FoUr teaMs CoMpeted<br />

For the trophy and played<br />

at the highest leVel dUring<br />

the MatChes.<br />

239

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Capri, hotel<br />

punta tragara<br />

By roBerta roccati - photos By francesco rastrelli<br />

240<br />

of the symbols which the “*****l” that hotel<br />

punta tragara in Capri boasts perhaps the most<br />

obvious is its l for luxury, a word which has long<br />

been associated with this famous island and<br />

which this hotel is certainly the symbol par excellence<br />

of. what is certainly worth discovering,<br />

however, is the special features behind each of<br />

the 5 stars under which the hotel has dazzled<br />

since 1973. its first and incomparable distinguishing<br />

mark is revealed in all its magnificence when,<br />

after a pleasant walk from Capri’s square surrounded<br />

by blooming bougainvillea you reach<br />

belvedere tragara with its arched orange grove<br />

terraces plunging sharply into the indigo sea at<br />

Marina piccola in front of the imposing Faraglioni.<br />

the position is unique, the view unequalled, the<br />

sun perfect. to enjoy the best of Capri all you<br />

need to do is be there - in its 44 rooms and 5<br />

suites whether you are relaxing in your room,<br />

soaking in the jacuzzi, taking breakfast on the<br />

sunny terrace, in the swimming pool with the<br />

agave or lunching in the shade of its maritime<br />

pines. wherever you are you will get a wonderful<br />

view of saetta, stella and scopolo - these are the<br />

names of the Faraglioni - and the luxuriant colours<br />

of the bay which - and not by chance - were<br />

chosen by emperor tiberius as the site of one of<br />

his villas. and this is when a second characteristic<br />

emerges, the history in which the walls of the<br />

hotel are settled. it was built by engineer Vismara<br />

the opening photo,<br />

a View oF the Marina<br />

piccola Bay.<br />

on this page, the hall<br />

oF capri’s hotel punta<br />

traGara and the syMbol<br />

oF its MeMebership<br />

oF the slh sMall lUxUry<br />

hotel groUp and jdb.<br />

241

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242<br />

great attention<br />

to detail with a View<br />

oF the Faraglioni FroM<br />

art sUite nUMber 60.<br />

on the right hand page,<br />

the swiMMing pool bar,<br />

penthoUse sUite no. 6,<br />

a portrait oF CoUntess<br />

enrica ManfreDi,<br />

the Consort oF CoUnt<br />

GoffreDo ManfreDi<br />

and the direCtor<br />

oF the hotel<br />

paolo feDerico.<br />

243

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istorante Monzù<br />

oVerlooking the waters oF<br />

Marina piccola.<br />

below, two Creations<br />

by chef luiGi lionetti<br />

who speCialises in historiC<br />

dishes FroM the Capri<br />

and neapolitan traditions.<br />

aboVe, pork in a bread CrUst<br />

on a annUrCa apple pUrée<br />

and pilgriM sCallops<br />

on a bed oF orange saUCe<br />

and a taggiasCa<br />

blaCk oliVe pesto.<br />

244<br />

as his private residence but both in his time and<br />

under successive owners it was always a place<br />

of celebrated gatherings and concerts leaving its<br />

mark on Capri hospitality.<br />

the mark it left on italian military and political<br />

history was even deeper when the villa became<br />

the rest camp for the 15th fleet of the Us airforce<br />

after the allied landings in pontecagnano and<br />

the location of the meeting between general<br />

eisenhower and Clark in the run up to the allied<br />

attack on Montecassino. Finally in 1973 the restoration<br />

work by the Manfredi Counts made the<br />

villa into a hotel, still with a very distinct personality<br />

which is to be found in the many paintings on<br />

the walls in a joyous combination of Capri style<br />

and contemporary design furniture. but then it<br />

could never have been otherwise and here we<br />

are at the third ‘star’ for its fashioning by the design<br />

genius, architect le Corbusier who loved to<br />

call punta tragara “an emanation from the rocks,<br />

a spin-off of the island, a vegetal phenomenon,<br />

almost an architectural lichen which has grown<br />

up on Capri’s side”.<br />

this sunny building, with its many, dynamic<br />

floors has emerged “from the rocks to form a<br />

refuge in which to shelter one’s body, heart and<br />

thoughts”. and this is precisely the effect it still<br />

has today on anyone who stays overnight, suspended<br />

in place and time with the additional<br />

appealing feeling that you are not a client of a<br />

grand hotel but a guest at a villa.<br />

the credit for this rare but not unique feeling<br />

goes to one of punta tragara’s added values, the<br />

extraordinary welcome which its staff gives you<br />

in a happy mixture of discretion and cordiality,<br />

professionalism and human warmth, devotion<br />

and respect. it is not unusual for departing clients,<br />

both first visitors an recurrent ones, to take<br />

a while to check out andsay goodbye not just to<br />

this heavenly spot but also of the people who<br />

make it such a paradise on a daily basis.<br />

one of these is undoubtedly its young chef luigi<br />

lionetti whose passion and great talent has<br />

made ristorante Monzù - the neapolitan take on<br />

the French monsieur, the monzù was the head<br />

chef of the aristocratic estates of the xViiith century<br />

- into one of the brightest stars of the punta<br />

tragara firmament.<br />

Fresh and salt water:<br />

an aperitiF in the swiMMing<br />

pool, a View FroM aboVe<br />

oF one oF the hotel’s<br />

two swiMMing pools<br />

oVerlooking Marina<br />

piccola, a detail<br />

oF the penthouse terrace<br />

and soMe oF the rooM<br />

terraCes.<br />

245

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CareFUl oF the sea gUlls!<br />

they loVe both panoraMas<br />

and Croissants!<br />

in the other iMages<br />

eVerything is ready<br />

For a Candlelit dinner<br />

oVer the Faraglioni<br />

ConteMplating the sUnset.<br />

246<br />

neapolitan and Mediterranean traditions with a<br />

personal twist are the order of the day - the addition<br />

of lobster to a plate of pasta, potatoes and<br />

provola cheese quite brings tears to the eyes! - ,<br />

the sommelier’s wine suggestions are always<br />

interesting and never intrusive and the choice<br />

between the terraces plunging down into the<br />

sea or the romantic swimming pool position are<br />

both to be tried.<br />

For jean-paul satre, “Capri is sacred. the point is<br />

not to see it but to feel a certain quality of emotion<br />

there...”. and nothing could be simpler at<br />

hotel punta tragara.<br />

www.hoteltragara.com<br />

247

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BEFORE YOU<br />

CAN LIVE THE DREAM,<br />

YOU HAVE TO BUILD IT.<br />

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high-performance, high-onlife<br />

shing machine. Our next one is still<br />

on the drawing board. Which means we<br />

can build her to your preferences – with<br />

the features, rigging and design elements<br />

Convertible Enclosed Bridge Sky Bridge<br />

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you need to make her perfect. There’s<br />

no question the next Bertram 80 will<br />

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Ready to live the dream?<br />

Call today to start the design process.<br />

FOR THE NEAREST BERTRAM YACHTS SALES CENTER, CALL 877-620-3801 • SALES@BERTRAM.COM<br />

VISIT US AT BERTRAM.COM. LIKE US ON FACEBOOK, FOLLOW US ON TWITTER.<br />

kevin seah, custom<br />

made synergy<br />

By rocío p. vallejo<br />

Kevin seah yoUng talented<br />

tailor based in sinGapore.<br />

249

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250<br />

More than 500 FabriCs<br />

inClUding silks,<br />

linens, wools, Cottons<br />

and CashMeres aVailable<br />

to CoVer any reQUest.<br />

singaporean former designer and one of a kind artist,<br />

schooled by tradition and driven by the need to<br />

create. his love for music, photography, and art is<br />

translated into sumptuous collections of garments<br />

and accessories, designed and made for anyone<br />

who can appreciate quality, high standards, creativity<br />

and detail into even the simplest item of<br />

clothing. kevin’s approach to any commission is<br />

always done in a meticulous way, embracing artisanal<br />

qualities, evident in his attention to detail<br />

and to the needs of the client, but also bringing to<br />

light material’s aesthetic peculiarities completing<br />

the trinity of a kevin seah piece: artisan, designer,<br />

wearer. seah’s work is usually characterized by a<br />

transversal process allowing customers to adapt to<br />

this tailor-client relationship, well known to people<br />

and habitués from the “made to measure” world<br />

but somehow awkward for a first-time bespoke client.<br />

being a truly customer-oriented atelier, kevin<br />

embodies the belief that the construction of a suit<br />

is a truly collaborative enterprise, jointly undertaken<br />

by tailor and client. “the tailor needs time to<br />

understand the customer lifestyle and preferences<br />

and keep in mind, consumer tastes may change<br />

overtime”. k.s. bespoke suits are unfused, assembled<br />

and finished entirely by hand, taking between<br />

three to four months to complete, depending on<br />

the number of adjustments and details required.<br />

Fabrics used on the garments are sourced and<br />

curated from premier english and italian mills.<br />

Clients can select from a catalogue of more than<br />

500 fabrics including silks, linens, wools, cottons<br />

and cashmeres. additionally to bespoke commis-<br />

sions, kevin collaborates with contemporary and<br />

emerging outstanding artists from around the<br />

world, allowing a classic/contemporary dialogue<br />

and creating a synergy that few traditional tailors<br />

dare to even try.<br />

“…i would like kevin seah bespoke to be a place<br />

for everyone. whether you come as a couple or<br />

alone, young or old, traditional or more daring, i’d<br />

like to think you can come here and find exactly<br />

what you need”.<br />

www.kevinseah.com.sg<br />

sUits are UnFUsed,<br />

asseMbled and Finished<br />

entirely by hand<br />

with an aCCUrate<br />

eye on details.<br />

251

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252<br />

in Kevin’s words<br />

“…i’d like to think<br />

yoU Can CoMe here<br />

and Find exaCtly what<br />

yoU need”.<br />

253

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254<br />

Frankfurt, from göethe<br />

to the Main tower<br />

By lapo quaGli (text anD photos)<br />

the blaCk deUtsChe bank<br />

‘Credit’ and ‘debit’ towers.<br />

rÖMerBerG, the historiC<br />

Centre sQUare.<br />

255

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the Citizens oF franKfurt<br />

seeM to liVe in CoMplete<br />

harMony with the riVer<br />

Main, VenUe For eVery sort<br />

oF oUtdoor aCtiVity.<br />

256<br />

Frankfurt has always felt to me like a beautiful<br />

woman who is sitting in the same departure lounge<br />

as me waiting for her flight. i start fantasising about<br />

her origins and accent, the reason for her trip, what it<br />

would be like holding her in my arms. My fantasising<br />

is brusquely interrupted by the tannoy system announcing<br />

boarding on another flight. only a hint of<br />

an intriguing fragrance remains. but this flight is different.<br />

i’m coming back from the United states and<br />

flying to tokyo. with a choice between two nights<br />

in Milan or Frankfurt i’ve chosen the foreign option.<br />

landing at one of the largest international airports<br />

in europe on a business class airdolomiti flight, i get<br />

to hotel Villa kennedy in less than half an hour. it is<br />

the former biophysics research institute destroyed<br />

in world war two and rebuilt in 2006. an evening<br />

stroll along the banks of the Main gives me an insight<br />

into the city’s ironic nickname Mainhattan. its<br />

skyline is that of a great metropolitan conurbation<br />

full of super modern skyscrapers. Moving eastwards<br />

i find myself in an old quarter with a vibrant night<br />

life. i go into a pub. this is just how i imagined a german<br />

bar. My camera means i don’t go unnoticed.<br />

the background noise dies down and the music<br />

takes over, somewhat dark dance music. just a few<br />

minutes later i am trying out a range of beers with<br />

a ChanCe enCoUnter<br />

with yarets, deaF<br />

reCord-breaking<br />

Motorbike rider retUrning<br />

FroM bielorUs, taking<br />

a break FroM his trip<br />

aroUnd the world<br />

in franKfurt.<br />

the skysCraper skyline<br />

oVerlooks the slow<br />

MoVing Main.<br />

257

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hotel villa KenneDy’s<br />

presidential sUite is FUll<br />

oF works oF art, CoMForts<br />

and an exCellent seleCtion<br />

oF liQUers and ChoColates.<br />

258<br />

new friends who i am struggling to find a common<br />

language with. as göethe often did, i return to my<br />

room a little too late and after a few too many beers.<br />

the following morning i wander into the banking<br />

quarter. the city has as many as 300 of which 180<br />

are foreign. i go up to the roof top of the main tower<br />

and the city’s mixture of modern and historic is clear<br />

from here, a city organism in continual evolution.<br />

i meet a national star, the weather man with his<br />

mascot Fridolin who ventures forth in all weathers<br />

to tell the germans their weather forecast directly<br />

from the clouds. Frankfurt has only relatively recently<br />

made peace with its past and this is evident in the<br />

late restoration work on its historic districts. but it has<br />

done it in style and put to rest the fears of its citizens<br />

that it would be famous for its banks alone, for its<br />

unsuccessful euro monument, as the city of money.<br />

these are fears that are as groundless as those of the<br />

father of the famous writer göethe - who was born<br />

and grew up in Frankfurt - who feared that his son<br />

was a good for nothing and would devote himself<br />

to a life of vice. the banks of the Main actually contain<br />

no fewer than 40 museums all of which have<br />

restaurants and laboratories and are open until late.<br />

the cultural range is vast. For me, the stadël, work of<br />

botticelli and bellini, was unmissable as was the Mak<br />

for contemporary art but numerous themes are<br />

covered here. it is evening again now, however, and<br />

my last date awaits me. don Carlos at the new opera<br />

house. My date in evening dress is an acquaintance<br />

that i am happy to have been able to get to know<br />

better, a city in happy harmony between the slow<br />

pace of historic contemplation and the fast pace of<br />

modern life.<br />

259

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260<br />

Maserati ghibli:<br />

a true trident<br />

By alex BuGnon<br />

deep in the wonderFUl<br />

senesian hills, the GhiBli’s<br />

proFile shows oFF all<br />

its straightForward lines<br />

and the originality<br />

and extreMe eleganCe<br />

oF its style.<br />

261

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262<br />

we are in italy, a few kilometres from siena, on<br />

the state road travelling gradually in a seaward<br />

direction. this is the site of the wonderful resort<br />

borgo la bagnaia which was the backdrop to the<br />

presentation and road trials of the new Maserati<br />

ghibli. it is a sort of oasis set deep in the green<br />

senesi hills, ideal for any wine and food tour and<br />

equally perfect for any sort of test drive because<br />

of the morphology of the terrain and the splendid<br />

panoramas which all of the many state roads<br />

in this wonderful part of tuscany offer us around<br />

every bend.<br />

now that we’ve looked at the backdrop of our trials,<br />

let’s move on to analysing in more detail the<br />

house of the trident’s newborn which, although<br />

it is related to its elder sister the Quattroporte to<br />

some extent, is totally original in the context of<br />

the Maserati range. echoes of tradition - apart<br />

from its name - are only there in certain style aspects<br />

such as, for example, the classic front radiator<br />

grill incorporating the trident and part of the<br />

back busbar which gives the ghibli that sporty<br />

coupé look which is such a feature of the trident.<br />

but let’s move onto the key technical character-<br />

istics that mark out this newborn immediately<br />

and the first of these is its new diesel engine<br />

consisting of a V6 3 litre engine capacity single-turbo<br />

capable of producing 275 hp and as<br />

much as 600 nm of torque enabling the ghibli<br />

to get up to 250 km/k and reach 100 kilometres<br />

an hour in only 6.3 seconds from starting position.<br />

whatever its performance, it is interesting<br />

to note that, in order to maintain the charm of<br />

the trident’s sound characteristics, a sound actuator<br />

has been added to the exhaust pipe called<br />

Maserati active sound which is easily up to the<br />

classic tone standards of the petrol engine. petrol<br />

engines with two different units - both direct<br />

fuel injection twin turbo (once again six cylinder<br />

and 3 litres engine capacity) - used to equip, respectively,<br />

the basic version, the s and the sQ4<br />

with power levels varying from 330 to 410 hp.<br />

and all this for absolutely top performance (especially<br />

for the sQ4 version accredited with 0 to<br />

100 km/h in just 4.8 seconds from starting position)<br />

combined with top level quality guarantees<br />

ensured by engine assembly on site at Ferrari’s<br />

Maranello factory.<br />

in the ForegroUnd,<br />

the aggressiVe Front<br />

oF the sQ4 and its Maserati<br />

toUCh Control with<br />

the Central tUnnel whiCh<br />

Contains its new aUtoMatiC<br />

zF eight speed gear box.<br />

263

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the iMposing entranCe<br />

to the BorGo la BaGnaia<br />

resort (top) and (to the side)<br />

one oF the stages<br />

in My test driVe whiCh<br />

shows the extraordinary<br />

FeatUres oF the roUte<br />

and (right) the beaUty<br />

oF the landsCape.<br />

264<br />

on top of its engine, the ghibli marks itself out<br />

for other sophisticated technical solutions such<br />

as its five-arm rear multilink, a brand new eight<br />

speed zF automatic transmission and five different<br />

set up levels and its brand new four wheel<br />

drive system on demand which can electronically<br />

transfer up to 100% of torque in just 150<br />

milliseconds to the front wheels. no less impressive<br />

is the attention to detail in the design of the<br />

interior with absolutely top level finishings worthy<br />

of Maserati’s very best sector competitors. in<br />

this respect, worthy of special mention are the<br />

very beautiful Maserati touch Control display,<br />

its adjustable pedals (a feature which i particu-<br />

larly appreciated on my test drive), its reverse<br />

gear cameras, its classic interior in poltrona Frau<br />

leather and its extraordinary bower and wilkins<br />

15 speaker audio system. production of the newborn<br />

has already begun at the avv. giovanni agnelli<br />

grugliasco (ex bertone) factory and 22-25<br />

thousand vehicles a year is the production esti-<br />

mate. this should make ghibli Maserati’s greatest<br />

commercial success thanks to the expected<br />

boost to sales by the asian market where ghibli<br />

will be imported from 2015 onwards. to contribute<br />

to such ambitious expectations, ghibli’s<br />

price is definitely an accessible one particularly<br />

if its excellent finishings and absolutely top level<br />

top, the new Front<br />

projeCtor and ClassiC<br />

Maserati logo together<br />

with a beaUtiFUl iMage<br />

oF the rear oF the GhiBli<br />

and a DynaMic three<br />

QUarter Frontal shot<br />

(to one side).<br />

265

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top, the GhiBli FroM<br />

the Front and, aboVe,<br />

FroM the rear with<br />

its original logo speCially<br />

Created For this new Car.<br />

266<br />

mechanics are taken into account: 66,000 euros<br />

for the diesel engine and 68,000 for the basic<br />

petrol version up to 84,000 for the sQ4. on the<br />

road, ghibli marks itself out for excellent manageability<br />

(particularly considering its 1800 kgs of<br />

weight and around 5 metre length) which makes<br />

it useable and pleasant even on mixed surfaces<br />

where it shows off the functions of its new zF<br />

eight speed transmission. its excellent brakes are<br />

guaranteed by its new brembo system which<br />

ensures absolutely top level stopping distances.<br />

lastly, its fuel consumption is also positive and<br />

the diesel version reaches the 6 litre threshold<br />

for 100 kms in the combined cycle. at the end<br />

of my test drive, i feel lucky to have been able to<br />

drive all four versions of this new car and to have<br />

appreciated the same characteristics mentioned<br />

above in all four. Certainly the ghibli s, and particularly<br />

the sQ4 because of its 410 hp, will be a<br />

success with those fans who look for absolutely<br />

top performance as the main buying factor but i<br />

am also quite sure that the disel engine will not<br />

disappoint the expectations of even the most<br />

exacting particularly because of its extraordinary<br />

gear elasticity and every day usability.<br />

www.maseratighibli.it<br />

267

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268<br />

in the “seeker’s”<br />

wunderkammer<br />

By paola perfetti<br />

in Milan, since 20<strong>07</strong>, there’s been a place where time<br />

stands still, where fine men’s tailoring is an exclusive<br />

value shared by connoisseurs of “made to order”<br />

suits. not known to many, it is called santerasmo<br />

Cinque. the name and the address are the same,<br />

and the few yards that separate it from the hallowed<br />

fashion district, with via Montenapoleone, via<br />

spiga, Villa perego and piazza san Carlo - “one of the<br />

loveliest squares in Milan”, according to alessandro<br />

leonardi, the atelier’s manager - explain its outlook.<br />

this is the heart of the italian fashion capital, where<br />

tradition coexists with emerging trends.<br />

here, santerasmo Cinque plays by the “old rules”,<br />

continuing to offer a high end tailoring service<br />

geared to meeting the client’s demands. the atelier<br />

creates or recovers something that is more than<br />

a classically cut men’s suit: stitching, buttonholes,<br />

retro and contemporary reverves, vintage-chic<br />

seams and fit calibration“serve as inspiration for a<br />

concept of bespoke that includes the insertion of<br />

traditional tailoring details in newly made articles. to<br />

us, bespoke means a renewed rapport with tradition,<br />

a lasting relationship with people who will be<br />

included in our family clientele”, leonardi explains.<br />

FaCing page:<br />

inside the santerasMo<br />

CinQUe atelier, ClassiC<br />

eleganCe Meets<br />

the new look.<br />

269

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270<br />

all in all, this seems more like an exploration of the<br />

art of detail than a visit to an atelier. the mannequins,<br />

the easy chairs, the suitcases are evidence<br />

that this is a “seeker’s den”, and that is how leonardi<br />

sees himself, “because i love to search for new<br />

ideas, gleaned from art or furniture design, and see<br />

how i can apply them to fashion”. we are in piazza<br />

sant’erasmo Cinque, but in a flash we are transported<br />

to the london of exclusive antiques, in an<br />

art gallery, a furniture showroom and who knows<br />

what else; because the search is never-ending. “we<br />

have created a series of ad hoc accessories: made<br />

to measure ties with unusual retro silks, a vast range<br />

of pochettes, shirts, leather accessories, scents and,<br />

when the weather turns nicer, even made to measure<br />

bicycles”, he tells us. what’s next? - we intend to<br />

expand the entire cashmere tailoring segment, with<br />

the collaboration of artisans who weave on ancient<br />

looms; we are offering a personalized service that includes<br />

a reorganization of the entire wardrobe and<br />

remodeling of the individual articles. a bespoken<br />

plus”. waiting to be discovered in a Milanese piazza.<br />

piazza sant’erasmo number 5, that is.<br />

www.santerasmocinque.it<br />

in these pages:<br />

british eleganCe inside<br />

the santerasMo CinQUe<br />

atelier.<br />

ClassiCally tailored sUits<br />

Made ConteMporary with<br />

the addition oF stylish<br />

details, like sCarVes,<br />

poChettes, shirts<br />

and leather aCCessories<br />

oF Fine CraFtsManship.<br />

eVen the biCyCles are Made<br />

to MeasUre.<br />

271

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old sChool stitChing,<br />

bUttonholes and FabriCs<br />

FeatUring a new bespoke CUt.<br />

it’s the CaChe aMassed<br />

by “the seeker”<br />

“the prospeCtor”,<br />

alessanDro leonarDi,<br />

who is exploring new<br />

projeCts, like reorganizing<br />

an entire wardrobe<br />

and the reModeling<br />

oF the indiVidUal artiCles.<br />

272

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elgrade:<br />

24 hours<br />

of elegance<br />

By alBerto Gerosa<br />

274<br />

the 1937 horCh 853<br />

“ManUela” sport CoUpe<br />

in the royal gardens<br />

oF the white palaCe,<br />

in BelGraDe.<br />

aboVe, top Model<br />

jelena ivanovic with<br />

a 1939 rolls royCe wraith.<br />

275

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276<br />

the formula is familiar: select public, exclusive items,<br />

motors, fine libations and lovely women. in “24<br />

hours of elegance” in belgrade, however, it was the<br />

perfect combination between british style, this year’s<br />

hot ticket, and the all-out elegance of belgrade high<br />

society that made the difference. organized in<br />

synergy with the Uk embassy, the british-serbian<br />

Chamber of Commerce and the luxury concierge<br />

Quintessentially, the event, which was held on 6-8<br />

september, could rely on the presence of important<br />

brands, such as, for example, Mumm Champagne,<br />

whose effervescent gala on 6/9 kicked off the luxury<br />

marathon in the aristocratic setting of the white<br />

palace. hosting the event were prince aleksandar<br />

karageorgevic and the princesses katherine and<br />

jelisaveta: their dynasty reigned for centuries over<br />

these lands, until the advent of Marshal tito. tito<br />

died in 1980, but his collection of antique cars was<br />

featured in splendid photos taken from the volume<br />

that the automobile historian, Miroslav Milutinovic,<br />

dedicated to it, and the images accompanied visitors<br />

through the palace halls. the spotlight then<br />

leFt: jaMes sherWooD<br />

and alex DjorDjevic with<br />

two oF kilgoUr’s iCons:<br />

head CUtter john hill<br />

and Martin craWforD;<br />

hrh croWn prince<br />

aleKsanDar KaraGeorGevic<br />

Flanked by statUesQUe<br />

beaUties; DusKa jovanic,<br />

ConFerenCe Moderator<br />

For the lUxUry salon,<br />

and GoGa GruBjesic,<br />

a partner at sUperstar<br />

worldwide agenCy;<br />

a View oF the kilgoUr<br />

display; a seleCtion<br />

oF FragranCes<br />

by penhaligon’s<br />

and CUstoM Footwear<br />

by saint Crispin’s, on exhibit<br />

at the lUxUry salon.<br />

this page, CloCkwise<br />

FroM the top: a splendid<br />

Model poses with<br />

a sUMptUoUs alFa roMeo 6C;<br />

hrh princess Katherine,<br />

hrh prince aleKsanDar<br />

and other illUstrioUs<br />

gUests; the sUperlatiVe 1939<br />

rolls royCe wraith basks<br />

on its laUrels.<br />

277

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278<br />

soMe highlights<br />

FroM the BelGraDe eVent,<br />

FroM soFt lights<br />

and CUlinary delights<br />

at the Charity dinner<br />

to the presentation<br />

oF the FUtUro reMoto<br />

jewels, Models and Cars:<br />

a 1952 lanCia aUrelia<br />

Vignale (lopresto<br />

ColleCtion) and a 1937<br />

horCh 853 “ManUela”<br />

sport CoUpe.<br />

shone squarely on james sherwood, and his book<br />

with a title that could not have been more appropriate,<br />

“the perfect gentleman”, presented by Chivas.<br />

interest also focused on the timepieces in tag<br />

heuer’s Carrera collection, while the fragrances by<br />

penhaligon’s gave the evening an additional touch<br />

of exclusivity, this time from an olfactory standpoint.<br />

also on 6/9, the inauguration of an exhibit of histori-<br />

cal costumes, organized by kilgour, of savile row.<br />

the evening drew to a close with a charity dinner,<br />

after which there was a striking presentation of<br />

jewels by the Futuro remoto brand. the following<br />

day was dedicated to pedigreed automobiles,<br />

featuring events such as the 2013 belgrade Classic<br />

Car show, powered by UniQa. or the “auto bild<br />

grand tour historique”, a splendid display of classic<br />

279

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a panoply oF gUests,<br />

CloCkwise FroM the top:<br />

huGo jacoMet<br />

oF parisian gentleMan<br />

and siMone uBertino rosso<br />

oF Vitale barberis CanoniCo<br />

with the direCtor<br />

Gianluca MiGliarotti.<br />

two Fashion MoMents<br />

FroM the rUnway show.<br />

280<br />

vehicles against a stunning backdrop: kalemegdan<br />

park, surrounding the fortress that has loomed over<br />

the serbian capital for centuries and whose name<br />

still recalls the days of ottoman supremacy. but<br />

these were only preludes to the “Chivas Concours<br />

d’elegance 2013”, a parade of classic automobiles in<br />

front of the grand Casino beograd, one of the partners<br />

of the event. the coveted “Chivas best of show”<br />

prize went to an alfa romeo 6C, owned by the<br />

prominent collector Corrado lopresto. at the same<br />

time as the show there was the “salon of elegance”,<br />

a conference and display of luxury items organized<br />

in collaboration with the economist. in addition to<br />

the brands already mentioned, other brands offered<br />

a sample of their savoir-faire on this occasion, such<br />

as the shoe manufacturer saint Crispin’s, as well<br />

as the historic textile firm Vitale barberis Canonico.<br />

the enviable task of presenting rolls royce design<br />

was entrusted to pavle trpinac, who designed the<br />

most recent wraith model for the iconic auto maker.<br />

the evening’s main event was the runway show in<br />

front of the Casino fountains. the fashion show was<br />

dominated by the new collection presented by the<br />

multi brand store distante, featuring creations by<br />

designers like balenciaga and stella McCartney (just<br />

to name two), in addition to the Croatian concept<br />

store, das Charmes and, naturally, the ever-present<br />

kilgour. sunday 8/9 the finishing touch was provided<br />

by the exclusive trunk show, set up in the<br />

presidential suite of the supremely elegant hyatt<br />

regency belgrade.<br />

www.24hoursofelegance.com<br />

Coevo by Cecchi<br />

By Gianni Mercatali - photos By aroMicreativi<br />

A wine tasted by 18 Michelin stars.<br />

Coevo was born in 2006 and is the synthesis of<br />

a long and important journey in Cecchi’s history.<br />

andrea and Cesare, fourth generation owners<br />

of the company, felt and desired this wine very<br />

strongly as a turning point in their enological history.<br />

Coevo means memory and tradition in two<br />

important areas, reference points for the present<br />

but above all for the future. the philosophy it is<br />

born from is clear - maximum quality for every<br />

single vintage from the starting point of modernity.<br />

Cesare and andrea wanted to be ‘contemporary’<br />

in expressing quality. organoleptic<br />

quality, modern taste and culture - these are the<br />

dynamic elements which evolve and fluctuate<br />

over time thanks to human action. For this rea-<br />

son the grapes used in Coevo vary according to<br />

the harvest whilst maintaining the base element<br />

which binds the Cecchi family to its terroir - sangiovese.<br />

this tuscan igt brings together sangiovese and<br />

Cabernet sauvignon cultivated in Chianti Classico<br />

and Merlot and petit Verdot grown in the<br />

Maremma by the company’s two firms. the wines<br />

deriving from the different grapes are aged for a<br />

year in different woods: barrique with a high percentage<br />

of new wood and mainly second passage<br />

500 litre tonneau for the sangiovese above<br />

all. after this the various grape varieties are assembled<br />

and left to rest for six months. the result<br />

is a red wine of considerable character.<br />

anDrea and cesare cecchi<br />

and a bottle oF CoeVo,<br />

a CharaCterFUl tUsCan<br />

wine Made FroM sangioVese,<br />

Cabernet saUVignon<br />

and petit Verdot.<br />

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on the right:<br />

the gUests at a reCent<br />

tasting at cecchi with six<br />

MiChelin starred CheFs:<br />

Mauro Mattei (piazza<br />

dUoMo in alba, CUneo);<br />

hayashi MototsuGu<br />

(dal pesCatore<br />

in Canneto sUll’oglio,<br />

MantoVa); Marco reitano<br />

(la pergola, roMe); anGelo<br />

saBBaDin (le Calandre<br />

in rUbano, padUa); faBrizio<br />

sartorato (da Vittorio<br />

in brUsaporto, bergaMo);<br />

alessanDro toMBerli<br />

(enoteCa pinChiorri,<br />

FlorenCe).<br />

282<br />

From its inception, Coevo has enchanted both<br />

critics and consumers all over the world and it<br />

is for precisely this red that andrea and Cesare<br />

recently designed and organised a very unusual<br />

tasting for a ‘parterre de roi’. the occasion was the<br />

preview presentation of this great wine’s fourth<br />

vintage and the protagonists were six sommeliers<br />

from six italian restaurants with three Michelin<br />

guide stars respectively led by oenologist Miria<br />

bracali, the Cecchi brothers and daniele Cernilli,<br />

expert wine critic. after a visit to the vineyards<br />

and cellars, they tasted the four vintages of Coevo<br />

produced to date - 2006, 20<strong>07</strong>, 2009 and 2010 -<br />

and then they were put to the test with an enjoyable<br />

game with the aim of creating Coevo 2011<br />

which will come out in october 2014. the six<br />

stars were: Mauro Mattei of piazza duomo in alba<br />

(Cuneo); hayashi Mototsugu of dal pescatore in<br />

Canneto sull’oglio (Mantova); Marco reitano of<br />

la pergola in rome; angelo sabbadin of le Calandre<br />

in rubano near padua; Fabrizio sartorato<br />

of da Vittorio in brusaporto, bergamo; alessandro<br />

tomberli of the enoteca pinchiorri in Florence.<br />

equipped with cylinders and 4 half bordeaux<br />

bottles containing the four Coevo grapes, these<br />

sommeliers were put to work with enthusiasm<br />

and great expectations. in a very short time each<br />

created their very own ideal Coevo which was<br />

then presented to a jury made up of Miria bracali,<br />

andrea and Cesare Cecchi and daniele Cernilli<br />

who chose alessandro tomberli of the enoteca<br />

pinchiorri in Florence’s blend as the best (60%<br />

sangiovese, 20% Cabernet sauvignon, 7% petit<br />

Verdot, 13% Merlot). Coevo 2010 will go on sale<br />

this october and expresses all the mineral notes<br />

and power of the Maremma together with the<br />

elegance and sophistication of Chianti. it is ruby<br />

red with hints of pomegranate and raspberry and<br />

has markedly wild notes of bay leaves and liquorice<br />

root on the nose and full and lively tannins<br />

and aromas of red fruits and chinine bark in the<br />

mouth. long lasting in the mouth, its after taste<br />

is rounded and silky.<br />

www.checchi.net<br />

on these pages soMe<br />

oF the MiChelin awarded<br />

CheFs with soMe<br />

oF the gUests.<br />

283

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grand hyatt Cannes<br />

hotel Martinez<br />

By flavio incarBone<br />

284<br />

its name is Martinez. the unmistakable inscription<br />

at the top of the main facade dominates la Croisette<br />

and winks at the yachts anchored there or<br />

sailing past to Cannes. these 8 large letters have<br />

been up there for nearly 85 years and will stay<br />

there for a long time to come even though the<br />

hotel’s full name is now grand hyatt Cannes hotel<br />

Martinez. the owners - a Qatar fund - has in fact<br />

entrusted the management of the hotel to the<br />

prestigious hotel chain which appointed italian<br />

Claudio Ceccherelli as its new general manager.<br />

over the next three years - between red carpet<br />

events and nautical festivals - millions of euros will<br />

be invested in the building which will restore it<br />

entirely and make the suites, rooms and common<br />

use areas even more beautiful whilst fully respecting<br />

the building’s architectural style.<br />

the team which will be entrusted with the task<br />

is currently being selected. there will certainly be<br />

great changes to the swimming pool which will<br />

be moved so that it can be used also in winter<br />

and a new terrace will be built overlooking la<br />

Croisette.<br />

inaugurated in 1929 in art deco style with 409<br />

rooms, luxury and classic elegance with ultra<br />

modern elements, a private beach (la zplage) with<br />

400 chaise longue, three restaurants and a bar (la<br />

palme d’or with 2 Michelin stars, le relais, le bar<br />

l’amiral, restaurant zplage) - this is the tip of the<br />

iceberg of five star hospitality which fears no rivals.<br />

you can get to it from the nice-Cote d’azur airport<br />

in 30 minutes by car or 8 minutes by helicopter.<br />

and even more quickly by yacht using the tender.<br />

“i am delighted to take on this new challenge and<br />

to pass on hyatt’s core values to this historic hotel<br />

on the French riviera. as a passionate hotelier, i<br />

am committed to providing authentic hospitality<br />

and to sharing the unique hyatt experience with<br />

our clients in Cannes”, says the general manager<br />

of the grand hyatt Cannes hotel Martinez, Claudio<br />

a historiC iMage<br />

oF the Martinez<br />

and below<br />

an eQUally Vintage<br />

illUstration.<br />

on the leFt a detail<br />

oF the l.raphael Beauty spa.<br />

285

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286<br />

an iMage oF the GranD<br />

hyatt cannes hotel<br />

Martinez reFleCted<br />

in a silVer bell.<br />

below, the exClUsiVe<br />

beaCh on the Cannes sea<br />

FroM la Croisette.<br />

Ceccherelli, “the final planning has not yet been<br />

fixed but within 2016 all the rooms of the hotel<br />

will be completely redone according a design that<br />

respects the history of the hotel but also according<br />

to guests needs and modern functionality.<br />

also the public areas, meeting and banqueting<br />

facilities will be completely refurbished; the spa<br />

and fitness area will be enlarged and we are also<br />

thinking of creating a big inside pool for the winter<br />

period that can be partially opened during the<br />

summer”.<br />

www.cannesmartinez.grand.hyatt.com<br />

a detail oF reCeption<br />

and, below, the Martinez’s<br />

new general Manager<br />

italian clauDio ceccherelli.<br />

he worked at Milan’s park<br />

hyatt (and beFore that<br />

at hotel de paris and Villa<br />

d’este aMong others).<br />

287

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288<br />

polo brema<br />

By rocío pérez vallejo<br />

there’s no doubt that even the strongest traditions<br />

are opening the doors to new interpretations,<br />

not only technologically but also<br />

conceptually. a good example of this transversal<br />

view is the last polo tournament celebrated<br />

at the renowned hagen grinden polo Club. in<br />

this particular occasion for the bank neelmeyer<br />

polo Masters Cup with the participation of 4<br />

teams: bank ag neelmeyer, polo Club hagen-<br />

grind/stiesing/Flamant, ias/Clean car wash/<br />

koja boats/verias24.de and land rover jaguar/<br />

etiqueta negra.<br />

the match was enthusiastically inaugurated<br />

on june 28, 2013. the oldest and fastest team<br />

sport in the world was framed by a beautiful<br />

venue equipped with exceptional facilities<br />

that allowed a vast public to enjoy a clear day<br />

in the second most populous city in nothern<br />

germany, bremen. with more than 60 horses<br />

brought form argentina and personalities such<br />

as dr. Frank schlaberg, thomas strunck, harm<br />

hesterberg and alexander schwarz, the tournament<br />

allowed not only the players but the visitors<br />

to socialize in a charming ambiance.<br />

a Cordial atMosphere<br />

and a Vast pUbliC,<br />

highlights oF the bank<br />

neelMeyer polo Masters<br />

cup at hagen grinden<br />

polo ClUb, BreMen,<br />

GerMany.<br />

289

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290<br />

a green landscape with ample space for a<br />

picnic granted the public to take part in the<br />

extra tournament activities such as the segway<br />

match, played under the traditional polo rules<br />

and with the benefit of a friendly, safe and ergonomic<br />

“stallion”.<br />

one of the highlights of the Cup was the cordial<br />

atmosphere perceived on a sometimes<br />

restricted sport, thanks to the organizers and<br />

certainly to the venue characterized by an<br />

ample field but also a particular surrounding<br />

with old farm buildings dating from 1898 offering<br />

ideal conditions, from a first class polo club<br />

of amateur players to high-goaler matches.<br />

www.poloclub-hagengrinden.de<br />

www.polovorschalt.mmh.ag<br />

291

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292<br />

intimité<br />

rocío pérez vallejo - photo Bruno BisanG, alBert Watson anD MarK arBeit<br />

disrobed and displayed in all its glory, the human<br />

form, is undeniably the most persistent motif in<br />

western art history. Museums dedicated to ancient<br />

and modern art are populated with nudes<br />

accomplished in a vast selection of media. we<br />

can’t get tired of human figure being present<br />

in an everyday basis, but how do we cope with<br />

concepts related to nudity. words that somehow<br />

resemble or ring a bell on the personal “syllabus”<br />

inside our minds? intimacy is usually seen and<br />

experienced in small dosis, and as the result of<br />

a sometimes casual circumstance but few times<br />

“being intimate” is conceived as a reward, as the<br />

result of a bond that is formed through knowledge<br />

and experience of the other. eventhough<br />

scholars distinguish between four different forms<br />

of intimacy (physical, emotional, cognitive and<br />

experiential) we, earthly creatures, usually identify<br />

with the first category. should we think about<br />

artists like Marina abramovic, a clear example of<br />

intimate perfomer? or g.bataille, that brings to<br />

light the work of other well known figures from<br />

different spheres and times? i like to think about<br />

bernini’s sculpture “ecstasy of saint teresa”, depicting<br />

the saint lying on a cloud as we are witnessing<br />

her experience of religious ecstasy in her<br />

encounter with the angel. irving lavin said “…it<br />

becomes a point of contact between earth and<br />

heaven, between matter and spirit”.<br />

should we accept the invitation and start being<br />

intimate? Unveil and recognize ourselves in the<br />

person next to us.<br />

“…i saw in his hand<br />

a long spear oF gold,<br />

and at the iron’s point<br />

there seeMed to be<br />

a little Fire.<br />

he appeared to Me<br />

to be thrUsting it<br />

at tiMes into My heart,<br />

and to pierCe My Very<br />

entrails”.<br />

saint teresa of avila.<br />

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“the Closest exaMple<br />

oF an intiMate relation<br />

is that whiCh we haVe with<br />

oUr own body and Mind.<br />

in FaCt, My body oFFers<br />

it selF as an objeCt<br />

oF ConsCioUsness, bUt its<br />

natUral niChe is that<br />

oF the Unknowing…”.<br />

GeorGes Bataille<br />

294<br />

295

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all roads lead<br />

to Formentera…<br />

By flavio incarBone - photos By ricarDo laMin<br />

296<br />

Colors, FlaVors<br />

and aMbienCe are<br />

the salient CharaCteristiCs<br />

oF this “ChiringUitos”<br />

oVerlooking the beaCh<br />

at es pUjols, in forMentera.<br />

297

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iF yoU get here by sea<br />

with a tender yoU Can<br />

Moor at the chezz GerDi<br />

pier, or be piCked Up direCtly<br />

FroM the ladder oF yoUr<br />

own yaCht by the loCal<br />

tender serViCe.<br />

298<br />

on the road that leads to Chezz gerdi there’s a<br />

pole stuck in the ground a stone’s throw from<br />

the sea. nailed on it a collection of worned out<br />

wooden signs, weathered by the sea breeze and<br />

sun rays, evry sign pointing the way to different<br />

destinations: Capri, bali, the seychelles and others.<br />

but one of the favorite destinations during<br />

the summer season in the Mediterranean is<br />

this “chiringuitos” in Formentera, which beppe<br />

ronco - an italian entrepreneur with other largescale<br />

hospitality projects in mind for ibiza and<br />

Formentera - took over and re-launched with a<br />

team of his best collaborators a year ago.<br />

the crystal-clear moorings opposite the terraces<br />

of the bar-restaurant have attracted numerous<br />

yachts (if you get here by sea with a tender you<br />

can moor at the Chezz gerdi pier, or be picked<br />

up directly from the ladder of your own yacht by<br />

the local tender service), other customers arrive<br />

by car, in search of fine food and an ambience<br />

that is undeniably high profile but at the same<br />

time respects its guests’ desire to relax while enjoying<br />

a magnificent view.<br />

the chef is the 3 Michelin starred andrea alimenti,<br />

Florentine by birth but half scottish.<br />

naturally the menu features fish, and meat is<br />

also an essential item, but there are also excel-<br />

lent pizzas and a long list of cocktails and wines.<br />

it’s always best to book if you want to sit down<br />

comfortably.<br />

Certainly anyone who wants to get married here<br />

on the seafront will book well in advance - or<br />

choose to declare eternal love without thinking<br />

about it too much - there are chefs and wedding<br />

planners available to satisfy your every need.<br />

www.chezzgerdi.net<br />

seaFront position,<br />

a terraCe with an exClUsiVe<br />

View, Fashionable aMbienCe<br />

and great CUisine<br />

- these are its strong<br />

points.<br />

299

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300<br />

thanks to infiniti europe, gruppo Fassina Milano.<br />

foule sentimentale<br />

“foule sentimentale<br />

on a soif d’ideal<br />

attiree par les etoiles, les voiles<br />

que des choses pas commerciales<br />

foule sentimentale<br />

il faut voir comme on nous parle<br />

comme on nous parle “<br />

By alain souchon