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Historic Austin

An illustrated history of the City of Austin, Texas and the surrounding area, paired with the histories of companies, families and organizations that make the region great.

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HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

An Illustrated History<br />

By Mike Cox<br />

A publication of the Heritage Society of <strong>Austin</strong>


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HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

An Illustrated History<br />

By Mike Cox<br />

Published for the Heritage Society of <strong>Austin</strong><br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Publishing Network<br />

A division of Lammert Publications, Inc.<br />

San Antonio, Texas


First Edition<br />

Copyright © 1998 by <strong>Historic</strong>al Publishing Network<br />

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including<br />

photocopying, without permission in writing from the publisher. All inquiries should be addressed to <strong>Historic</strong>al Publishing Network,<br />

8491 Leslie Road, San Antonio, Texas 78254. Phone (210) 688-9008<br />

ISBN: 0-9654999-8-7<br />

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 98-075242<br />

<strong>Historic</strong> <strong>Austin</strong>: An Illustrated History<br />

author: Mike Cox<br />

editorial assistants: Linda Cox, Betty Wilke Cox<br />

cover artist: A. N. Rumsey<br />

contributing writers for “Sharing the Heritage”: Sean McNulty, Karl Pallmeyer, Alice Wightman<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Publishing Network<br />

president: Ron Lammert<br />

vice president: Barry Black<br />

project managers: Rod Ethridge<br />

Joe Neely<br />

director of operations: Charles A. Newton, III<br />

production: Colin Hart<br />

Debbie Wright Swisher<br />

administration: Donna Mata<br />

Dee Steidle<br />

CONTENTS<br />

3 FOREWORD<br />

4 PREFACE<br />

5 CHAPTER 1 seat of future empire<br />

17 CHAPTER 2 “our experimental government has failed”<br />

25 CHAPTER 3 “there will be civil war right here”<br />

31 CHAPTER 4 “we are becoming accustomed to the railroad whistle”<br />

37 CHAPTER 5 laying cornerstones<br />

43 CHAPTER 6 the great dam<br />

57 CHAPTER 7 the era of frustration<br />

65 CHAPTER 8 “the New Deal was a good deal”<br />

71 CHAPTER 9 “win the war first”<br />

79 CHAPTER 10 toward the 21st century<br />

94 SHARING THE HERITAGE<br />

158 BIBLIOGRAPHY<br />

159 INDEX<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

2


FOREWORD<br />

So many years have passed since I first discovered <strong>Austin</strong>. After<br />

my childhood spent in deep East Texas and two years of school in<br />

Dallas, I enrolled as a student at the University of Texas in the fall<br />

of 1930, and immediately came under the spell of the city and<br />

surrounding countryside. In those days, wildflowers spilled across<br />

a much smaller campus, dominated by the gothic main building.<br />

The population was less than fifty-three thousand, and lunch at<br />

Wukaschs on the drag cost thirty-five cents!<br />

We used to picnic “out in the country” by the lake or in broad<br />

meadows. Rocky limestone cliffs stood sentinel and blankets of<br />

bluebonnets, Indian paint brush, delicate pink evening primrose,<br />

along with many others, spread out their welcome. I couldn’t<br />

imagine anything more romantic and idyllic.<br />

For anyone who shared in political life, Wooldridge Park, with its charming gazebo and grounds<br />

rising around it to form a kind of amphitheater, was the place where all campaigns began or ended.<br />

The word “hometown” might have been coined in <strong>Austin</strong>. Even as the years passed and the city<br />

limits stretched, most of us—natives and newcomers—continue to regard the city as our own.<br />

That proprietary feeling has served <strong>Austin</strong> well. <strong>Historic</strong> old buildings, some rescued from the<br />

wrecking ball and carefully restored, have been transformed and given new life. A local bank<br />

moved several old houses to new sites and made them their branches with handsome results and<br />

goodwill as a by-product.<br />

Symphony Square, dear and well-known to all of us, stands as one of the most recognized<br />

restorations. Farsighted, innovative and determined women made a difference.<br />

Nowhere is re-development more obvious than downtown. A walk or drive down Congress<br />

Avenue finds commerce thriving in the setting of a building or storefront that would have looked<br />

familiar a century ago.<br />

The Capitol at the head of Congress Avenue is a picture engraved in all our minds.<br />

People are being drawn back to the center of town, allured by living quarters that are close to<br />

work and convenient to the music scene, the river front, the theater and other cultural attractions.<br />

Any many of those quarters are going to be housed in re-structured old buildings.<br />

Soon after Lyndon and I returned here from my ‘other favorite capital city,’ town lake became<br />

the focus of an effort to reclaim it from being used as a dumping site. A group of stout-hearted citizens,<br />

among whose number I was privileged to serve, raised funds and worked with the <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Parks and Recreation Department on a plan to put in hike and bike trails and landscaping to make<br />

it an attractive place for residents and visitors to use and enjoy. We had the leadership and knowhow<br />

of the mayor, Roy Butler, the business community and, I believe, most of <strong>Austin</strong>! That kind<br />

of broad support has underscored every successful effort in making our city more livable.<br />

Our past, what has been recaptured and retained, speaks to our hearts, warms us. We mourn<br />

for the remnants now lost to all but memory. And it had brought us face-to-face with the age of<br />

high tech; so many changes in my long lifetime.<br />

This book tells the story of a vital city and of citizens who care. It will bring nostalgic smiles to<br />

long-time residents. To those new to our city, I hope these pages impart a sense of permanence and<br />

an invitation to nourish, as well as partake of life in our beloved <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Lady Bird Johnson<br />

FOREWORD<br />

3


REMEMBERING: A PREFACE<br />

✧<br />

Mike Cox wrote his first history of <strong>Austin</strong><br />

in 1959 as a fifth grader at T. A. Brown<br />

Elementary.<br />

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

In a way, I started writing this book in the fall of 1959 when I was a fifth grader at T. A. Brown Elementary. The school<br />

was then on the far north edge of <strong>Austin</strong>, fronting a dead-end gravel road called Anderson Lane.<br />

Set down in a two-hole spiral notebook in a cursive hand I long since have abandoned in favor of a keyboard, my<br />

work-in-progress was called “History of <strong>Austin</strong>, Texas.” I still have that childhood manuscript. Though I don’t remember<br />

why I chose to ignore the use of the articles “The” or “A” in my title, I clearly recall the purpose of the book: It was<br />

optimisitically if not realistically undertaken as a commercial venture, not as a school project. My research, however,<br />

consisted of little more than the brief <strong>Austin</strong> history included back then in each telephone book. In fact, anyone comparing<br />

some of my passages against the text of the phone book might well have found shocking similarities.<br />

My mother, at the time a high school English teacher, graciously gave my opus-in-progress a light edit, using a red<br />

pen. But after advancing the history of <strong>Austin</strong> thirty years in fewer than five pages, I put the project aside, probably in<br />

favor of an expedition to nearby Little Walnut Creek with my BB gun and my friends, Bob and Randy.<br />

The BB gun came from my grandfather, L. A. Wilke, a retired newspaperman and writer who was born in the<br />

no longer extant Travis County community of Watter’s Park on June 16, 1897. As a toddler, he learned to swim<br />

in Lake McDonald, then the largest manmade impoundment in the world. He had no recall of the catastrophic<br />

1900 flood, but his father, Adolph Fritz Wilke, helped recover bodies from the ruins of the brick powerhouse near the<br />

breached dam.<br />

In addition to having played that prosaic role in <strong>Austin</strong>’s history, my great-grandfather was one of the men who helped<br />

build the Capitol. (No, he wasn’t one of the convicts. He was a paid laborer.)<br />

My interest in <strong>Austin</strong>’s history has its roots in the stories I heard from my granddad about his father’s experiences, as<br />

well as Granddad’s own recollections. For instance, every time we drove along Airport Boulevard, Granddad would point<br />

to a big block of granite on the railroad right-of-way and explain that it had fallen off the flatcars carrying rock from Burnet<br />

County intended for use in the construction of the Capitol. No one had bothered to move it and several others because<br />

of their weight, he said. The rocks are gone now, but I still find myself looking for them when I’m on Airport.<br />

Years later, as a reporter for the <strong>Austin</strong> American-Statesman, I had the opportunity to write some of <strong>Austin</strong>’s history as<br />

it happened, including covering the 1983 Capitol fire.<br />

This book, then, is founded in more than a century of family heritage and personal experience, though its research<br />

was based on more than the <strong>Austin</strong> phone book. In fact, if you’ll check, the phone book no longer offers a history of the<br />

city it serves.<br />

As a collector of Texana, I have an extensive personal cache of <strong>Austin</strong> history material which came in handy during<br />

the writing of this book, but the richest lode is held by the <strong>Austin</strong> Public Library’s <strong>Austin</strong> History Center. I have been<br />

doing research there since the 1960s with the help of a succession of fine directors, the latest being Biruta Kearl. In addition,<br />

staff members Margaret Schlankey and Grace McEvoy were extremely helpful in making available many of the photographs<br />

in this book.<br />

Even more fundamental to the writing of this book were the two women who are the cornerstones of my writing<br />

career: My mother Betty Wilke Cox, who’s still editing my writing, and my wife, Linda Aronovsky Cox, who has a Master’s<br />

degree in communications but prefers to use her talents in a career specialty she calls Family Manager. Linda is my other<br />

editor and also the person who knows how to make my computer do more things than merely process words, which is<br />

all I can handle.<br />

Our daughter, Hallie Dorin Cox, was born in <strong>Austin</strong>. She’s a little too young to be interested in this book now, but I<br />

hope she will eventually turn to it to learn something about her hometown. It’s not the city my grand- and great-grandparents<br />

knew, and not even the one I knew when I first tried to write its history forty years ago, but <strong>Austin</strong>’s still a great<br />

place to live. It has an interesting and colorful history. I hope you’ll enjoy reading about it in this book, which I dedicate<br />

to my family—past, present and future.<br />

Mike Cox<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, Texas<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

4


SEAT OF FUTURE EMPIRE<br />

The entrada of two priests, an Indian guide, a captain and fourteen red-coated soldiers armed<br />

with swords and muzzle-loading escopetas rode northeast through grass hock-high on their horses.<br />

Topping a rise, the startled Spaniards saw their first herd of bison. The dark brown, shaggy<br />

beasts milled in seeming indifference to these intruders on the open prairie. Several soldiers<br />

spurred their blooded horseflesh and rode into the herd, easily killing a supply of fresh meat.<br />

In camp that evening, Brother Isidro de Espinosa penned his journal entry:<br />

We came to the river, which is sheltered on either side by luxuriant trees, nogales [pecans], ash<br />

trees, poplars, elms, willows, and wild grapes, much higher and larger than those of Castile. The<br />

river has sand banks all along its margins, showing the high water mark, and it is a quarter of a<br />

league wide. Its water is the best we have found.<br />

Espinosa and fellow priest Antonio de Olivares, along with Capitán Pedro de Aguirre and his<br />

men, were the first Europeans to see the Colorado River in what is now Travis County, at a point<br />

a only few miles downstream from what would become the city of <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

This expedition, inauspicious by Spanish colonial standards, had ridden from the missionpresidio<br />

at San Juan Bautista on the Rio Grande on April 5, 1709. Espinosa was following up on a<br />

report that the Tejas Indians of East Texas, whom the Spanish had unsuccessfully tried to convert to<br />

Christianity in the late 1600s, finally had become interested in mission life. Supposedly the Indians<br />

were ready to move west to the Colorado River if the Spanish would build a mission for them there.<br />

Following their northeast course, the expedition passed through what in a few years would<br />

become the settlement of San Antonio de Bejar, then crossed the Comal and San Marcos rivers.<br />

✧<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, the new seat of government of the<br />

Republic of Texas, was only a few months<br />

old when this lithograph was prepared in<br />

January 1840. Government offices line<br />

Congress Avenue. In the upper left is the<br />

Republic’s Capitol. In the upper right is the<br />

two-story residence of President Mirabeau<br />

Buonaparte Lamar. Most of the one-story<br />

log cabins feature the typical “dog trot” or<br />

open hallway between two rooms.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

ONE<br />

5


✧<br />

Above: Before the arrival of Anglo-Texans,<br />

Plains Indians depended on large herds of<br />

shaggy buffalo to provide food, warm robes,<br />

and hide for clothes and tents.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Below: A buckskin-clad frontiersman flees<br />

through a thicket pursued by hostile Indians.<br />

ETCHING COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

6<br />

The expedition reached what is now Travis<br />

County on April 16 and camped for the night<br />

on Onion Creek, which empties into the<br />

Colorado. Espinosa called the stream the<br />

Garrapatas [ticks] for the annoying little insects<br />

that dug into the flesh of both horse and rider<br />

as they worked their way along its bank.<br />

On April 17, fortified by the buffalo meat<br />

roasted over their fires the night before, the travelers<br />

left Onion Creek and marched thirteen<br />

miles to the river. There, at a spot that looked<br />

like a good crossing, they set up a base camp.<br />

The following day, seven soldiers stayed<br />

behind while the priests, escorted by Captain<br />

Aguirre and the rest of his men, forded the<br />

river. On the other side, not far from camp,<br />

the Spaniards discovered a large Indian village<br />

of more than 150 round huts arranged in<br />

a crescent. But there were no Indians. When<br />

Espinosa did make contact with them a few<br />

days later, he learned they had hidden, fearing<br />

at first that the approaching riders were<br />

raiding Apaches.<br />

The Espinosa entrada stayed on the<br />

Colorado only a few days before turning back<br />

toward the Rio Grande. If the friar envisioned<br />

that a major city one day would straddle the<br />

river not far from his camp site, he did not<br />

record any such sentiment in his journal. But<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> exists because of that wide river that<br />

Espinosa is believed to have been the first<br />

European to see at its midpoint. The river<br />

would be both the city’s prime asset and,<br />

because of the terrible floods it sometimes<br />

brought, for more than a century one of its<br />

principal liabilities.<br />

From its beginning in West Texas along<br />

Sulphur Springs Draw in present-day Dawson<br />

County, the Colorado bends and twists back<br />

and forth like a huge water snake chasing a<br />

bug, flowing 600 miles from the rugged<br />

ravines at its source to the Gulf of Mexico.


Anyone setting out to walk along the river’s<br />

edge from headwater to mouth would travel<br />

900 river miles before reaching brackish<br />

water on the coast.<br />

Though Espinosa was the first visitor to<br />

write a description of the <strong>Austin</strong> vicinity, man<br />

had come to the midpoint of the river not<br />

later than 10,000 B.C. The river and the<br />

spring-fed creeks that ran into it provided the<br />

necessities of life: water and food. Fruit and<br />

nut-bearing plants and trees thrived in its<br />

moisture and game animals—bison, deer,<br />

antelope, bear—came to drink its water. Fish,<br />

turtles, and mussels from the river provided<br />

additional variety to the diet of the first people<br />

along the Colorado.<br />

Clear, cold water erupted year-round from a<br />

series of limestone springs near this midsection<br />

of the river. A well-worn trail extending for hundreds<br />

of miles in each direction passed near the<br />

springs where prehistoric man had camped for<br />

millennia. Early man possessed neither the language<br />

nor the sophisticated mathematical skill<br />

for ordering comparative lists, but these springs<br />

on the edge of the Balcones Escarpment, disgorging<br />

68-degree water at more than 27 million<br />

gallons a day, were the fourth largest in the<br />

vast landscape that would become Texas.<br />

Long before the Spanish first splashed<br />

across it, this river cutting through the heart<br />

of Texas served as one of its major boundaries<br />

separating different Indian cultures. Perennial<br />

camp sites near natural crossings became<br />

meeting places for trade. Espinosa noted wellestablished<br />

trails along the river’s banks,<br />

paths worn by animal and his principal predator:<br />

man.<br />

Espinosa left the first written description<br />

of the area near what would become Texas’<br />

capital city, but he did not stay. By April 21,<br />

1709 he was on his way back to the Rio<br />

Grande. Other entradas would follow<br />

Espinosa’s route across the Colorado during<br />

the time Texas was part of Spain’s already fading<br />

world empire.<br />

Twenty-one years after Espinosa’s entrada<br />

camped on the Colorado below what would<br />

become <strong>Austin</strong>, the Spanish may have established<br />

a mission upriver near the springs<br />

beneath the hills. Whether the mission was<br />

actually in Travis County or on the San Gabriel<br />

farther north in present-day Williamson<br />

County remains an open question. Late 20th<br />

century scholarship, based on new translations<br />

of Spanish diaries and comparisons of early<br />

maps with modern topographical charts,<br />

✧<br />

Above: Plácido, a chief of the friendly<br />

Tonkawas, once helped General Edward<br />

Burleson recover a favorite horse stolen by<br />

the Comanches.<br />

Below: A History of the Emigrants to the<br />

Republic of Texas, published by Nafis &<br />

Cornish in 1844, featured Edward Hall’s<br />

sketch of <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

ONE<br />

7


✧<br />

This 1853 map of <strong>Austin</strong> shows the<br />

development of Edwin Waller’s original plan for<br />

the capital city laid out north of the Colorado<br />

and between Shoal and Waller creeks.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

revealed a fair amount of miscalculation on the<br />

part of earlier historians in the locations of<br />

some early Spanish sites and trails.<br />

An historical marker in what is now Zilker<br />

Park commemorates a Spanish presence near<br />

the springs in 1730-31, but no ruins or<br />

European artifacts have ever been found in<br />

the area.<br />

However, in a cedar brake several miles<br />

upstream from the springs is a mysterious<br />

maze of stacked rock walls, ranging from<br />

knee- to waist-high. No one has ever determined<br />

who built them. Some have ventured<br />

that the rocks might date to colonial Spanish<br />

Texas, but others who have examined the<br />

walls maintain that they are not typical of the<br />

architecture of the period.<br />

Except for the short-lived mission, if it was<br />

ever there, the mid-range of the Colorado<br />

remained unsettled by people of European<br />

stock until well into the 19th century.<br />

While the river and the prolific springs<br />

east of the escarpment were the geographic<br />

factors leading to its settlement, the city that<br />

would develop on the Colorado’s banks<br />

owes its name—and indirectly its existence—to<br />

Stephen Fuller <strong>Austin</strong>, a young<br />

man who came to Texas to take over a colonization<br />

plan stalled by the death of his<br />

father, Moses <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

8


Born in Virginia in 1793, Stephen <strong>Austin</strong><br />

was raised in Missouri and educated in<br />

Connecticut, Kentucky and, to some extent,<br />

Louisiana, where he read law for a time in<br />

New Orleans. His gifts were a passion for<br />

hard work, an exacting eye for detail and a<br />

flair for compromise and diplomacy. His<br />

weakness was a lack of decisiveness, especially<br />

when assuming military leadership.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> arrived in Texas in August 1821. At<br />

San Antonio, he succeeded in preserving the<br />

empresario [land agent] contract his father<br />

had obtained to settle 300 families in Spanish<br />

Texas, but, because Mexico had revolted<br />

against Spain and a new government was in<br />

place, it would be two years before <strong>Austin</strong><br />

actually was able to grant land titles.<br />

Returning to New Orleans, he had no trouble<br />

recruiting immigrants for his colony. The first<br />

settlers arrived in December 1821. The lure<br />

was land, good land, at a per acre price so low<br />

as to give true meaning to the term “dirt<br />

cheap.” By 1828, <strong>Austin</strong> had contracts providing<br />

for the settlement of up to 1,200 families<br />

in Texas. Two years later, bolstered by an<br />

influx of immigrants under contracts with<br />

other empresarios, the Mexican province of<br />

Coahuila y Tejas had an Anglo-American<br />

population of 30,000.<br />

During these early years of settlement, the<br />

Colorado and Brazos rivers were the Tigris and<br />

Euphrates of Anglo Texas. The lower reaches of<br />

these two rivers, at points only fifty miles<br />

apart, in metaphor constituted a Texas-sized<br />

wagon road from the Gulf of Mexico straight<br />

into the heart of the Mexican province, each<br />

“rut” of the giant “road” filled with water.<br />

Most of <strong>Austin</strong>’s colonists stayed in the<br />

Brazos valley, but some settled farther to the<br />

west along the lower Colorado. Within a few<br />

years, some of the colonists, seeking fresher<br />

country and more distance from their neighbors,<br />

began exploring upriver toward “the<br />

Mountains,” the hills marking the Balcones<br />

Escarpment.<br />

A man named Cox (no researcher has ever<br />

determined his first name) rode up the river,<br />

likely as far as present-day <strong>Austin</strong>. He furnished<br />

Stephen <strong>Austin</strong> information on distances and<br />

tributaries of the Colorado that the empresario<br />

later used on a map depicting Texas between<br />

the Nueces and Colorado rivers.<br />

In 1827, <strong>Austin</strong> petitioned the Mexican<br />

government for a third empresario contract.<br />

He wanted to put settlers on land east of the<br />

Colorado and north of the old Spanish road<br />

from San Antonio to Nacogdoches, creating<br />

an additional buffer between his original settlements<br />

and hostile Indians. On October 11,<br />

1827, <strong>Austin</strong> won approval to place up to one<br />

hundred settlers in an area that came to be<br />

called the Little Colony. That land grant<br />

included the future capital of Texas.<br />

In March 1830, <strong>Austin</strong> and a surveying party<br />

made up of William Barton, Reuben Hornsby,<br />

Jesse Tannehill, John F. Webber, Martin Wells,<br />

and Josiah Wilbarger rode up the Colorado to<br />

take the measure of the new land grant.<br />

✧<br />

Above, left: Texians named the Republic’s<br />

capital city in honor of Stephen Fuller <strong>Austin</strong>,<br />

the empresario who brought hundreds of<br />

Anglo-American families to Texas.<br />

Above, right: Castile, head chief of the<br />

friendly Tonkawas, served as a scout for the<br />

Texas Rangers and the U.S. Army.<br />

Below: “Scene near <strong>Austin</strong>,” by W. Bissett<br />

from Map & Description of Texas 1840,<br />

copied by Francis Moore, Jr.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

ONE<br />

9


✧<br />

Above: Mirabeau B. Lamar, third President<br />

of the Republic of Texas, strongly favored<br />

the midpoint of the Colorado River as the<br />

location for the capital city.<br />

ETCHING COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Below: The Swenson pioneer cabin,<br />

displayed in the <strong>Austin</strong> Botanical Garden<br />

Center, is typical of a small but well-built<br />

frontier home.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

A settlement rapidly developed at a point<br />

on the Colorado about thirty miles below the<br />

Balcones Escarpment where the San Antonio<br />

Road crossed the river. <strong>Austin</strong> named the collection<br />

of log cabins in honor of the Baron de<br />

Bastrop, an official who had helped his father<br />

get his initial settlement contract. For a short<br />

time the new community was called Mina for<br />

Xavier Mina, a Mexican hero, but Bastrop is<br />

the name that stuck. By 1834, only two years<br />

after its founding, Bastrop was a thriving<br />

town and the seat of local government.<br />

Two years earlier, the country seen on his<br />

surveying trip still fresh in his mind, <strong>Austin</strong><br />

wrote his secretary Samuel May Williams from<br />

Saltillo on May 8, 1832 requesting that he<br />

secure for him several desirable tracts of land<br />

along the Colorado. The land <strong>Austin</strong> wanted<br />

included one tract that covered a large square<br />

north of the river and westward from the elevation<br />

later known as Mount Bonnell.<br />

“I shall fix a place on the Colorado at the<br />

foot of the mountains to live, and wish [the<br />

land] for my own use and not to sell,” he<br />

wrote. Of all the land the empresario had seen<br />

in Texas, he wanted acreage on the mid-<br />

Colorado as his retirement estate. <strong>Austin</strong><br />

urged Williams to perfect the titles quickly,<br />

because he had heard that others had their<br />

eye on that section of the river.<br />

Indeed, the other members of <strong>Austin</strong>’s surveying<br />

party also were impressed by the<br />

country they had seen.<br />

Georgia-born Reuben Hornsby settled on a<br />

bend in the river about ten miles below present-day<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> in July 1832, receiving title<br />

from the Mexican state of Coahuila y Tejas to<br />

a league (4,427 acres) and a labor (177.1<br />

acres) of land on October 16 that year. His<br />

place, soon called Hornsby’s Bend, was the<br />

first settlement in Travis County.<br />

Jesse Tannehill built a cabin at a point on<br />

the river that later was called Montopolis.<br />

Barton, Wells, and Wilbarger settled in the<br />

vicinity of Bastrop. Wilbarger stayed put, but<br />

Barton and Wells would move farther upriver<br />

after Texas’ 1836 revolution against Mexico.<br />

At first, <strong>Austin</strong> had hoped Texas would<br />

remain a Mexican province, but he eventually<br />

supported independence, briefly if unspectacularly<br />

serving as commander of the Texian<br />

army. The man who replaced him as general<br />

was another Virginian, Sam Houston.<br />

Five months after his victory over General<br />

Antonio López de Santa Anna at the Battle of<br />

San Jacinto, Houston defeated <strong>Austin</strong> at the<br />

polls, becoming the Republic’s first President.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> was appointed Secretary of State.<br />

The father of Anglo-American Texas did<br />

not hold office long and never got to enjoy<br />

retirement at his “place on the Colorado.”<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

10


<strong>Austin</strong> was only forty-three when he died of<br />

pneumonia on December 27, 1836. Death<br />

came to the former empresario in Columbia—<br />

the infant Republic’s capital at the time—a<br />

community in present-day Brazoria County<br />

now called West Columbia.<br />

A top priority of Texas’ nascent government<br />

was frontier defense. Still a wilderness,<br />

the area that would become the city of <strong>Austin</strong><br />

benefited from government spending for the<br />

first time in the fall of 1836. Under orders to<br />

raise three companies of mounted men and to<br />

“make your headquarters at some suitable<br />

point above the settlement[s],” Colonel<br />

Robert M. Coleman established a fort on high<br />

ground west of Walnut Creek about two and<br />

a half miles northeast of the Colorado River.<br />

Variously known as Fort Colorado, Coleman’s<br />

Fort, Fort Coleman, and Fort Prairie, the log<br />

fort—a pair of two-story blockhouses surrounded<br />

by a stockade—served as a base for<br />

Ranger operations against Indians for two<br />

years. The fort gave settlers confidence to<br />

start moving into the area.<br />

In 1837, William Barton chose a spot across<br />

the river from the land <strong>Austin</strong> had wanted, putting<br />

up a log cabin near the springs soon generally<br />

known as Barton’s Springs. The colorful<br />

Barton, sometimes described as “the Daniel<br />

Boone of Texas,” named the two largest springs<br />

after his daughters, Parthenia and Eliza. But his<br />

two-syllable surname is what stuck, though the<br />

possessive eventually disappeared.<br />

The area along the Colorado between<br />

Bastrop and Barton’s cabin was filling rapidly<br />

with settlers by 1838, though the distance<br />

between neighbors still was measured in<br />

miles. But the land Stephen <strong>Austin</strong> had<br />

desired remained unimproved. <strong>Austin</strong> never<br />

gained clear title prior to his death, and his<br />

heirs had no better luck.<br />

In July, Indian-fighter Edward Burleson,<br />

the man who had been Houston’s second-incommand<br />

at San Jacinto and one of two<br />

House members from Bastrop, had a townsite<br />

laid out on the river land <strong>Austin</strong> once wanted.<br />

The congressman, who had first seen the land<br />

while scouting for Indians, named the place<br />

Waterloo. “It has nothing in the way of<br />

improvement but a name,” a visitor said of the<br />

infant town in a letter to the Houston Telegraph<br />

and Texas Register, “and I wish it had not that,<br />

if the proprietors could not give it one without<br />

borrowing from a foreign country.”<br />

Among the first settlers at Waterloo was<br />

Jacob Harrell, one of the 300 original Texas<br />

colonists. Harrell put up a log cabin on the<br />

north bank of the river between Shoal Creek<br />

and what would become Congress Avenue.<br />

When Waterloo was incorporated on January<br />

15, 1839, Harrell was named the village’s first<br />

postmaster.<br />

Though the city which rose on the land<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> wanted as his own would in less than<br />

three years honor the late empresario’s name,<br />

✧<br />

Above: Dr. J. S. Robertson, an early medical<br />

man in Travis County, based his drawing on<br />

an old sketch. Shown are the Republic's first<br />

buildings for the Navy Department,<br />

Executive Offices, State Department, and<br />

(in the upper right) the President's<br />

residence.<br />

Below: Furnishings and utensils of a typical<br />

pioneer cabin have been carefully preserved.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

ONE<br />

11


✧<br />

Above: Edward Burleson, second-incommand<br />

at San Jacinto, laid out the small<br />

settlement of Waterloo in 1838. He was<br />

elected Vice President of the Republic, and<br />

was serving as President pro tempore of<br />

the Texas Legislature at the time of his<br />

death. He was buried in what later became<br />

the State Cemetery.<br />

ETCHING COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Below: William H. Sandusky, a surveyor,<br />

arrived in Waterloo (<strong>Austin</strong>) in May 1839<br />

with 200 workmen to lay out lots for the<br />

Republic’s governmental buildings. He<br />

painted this somewhat idealized picture of<br />

the new capital city.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

the capital of Texas could as fittingly be<br />

called Lamar.<br />

Mirabeau Buonaparte Lamar, a thirty-sixyear-old<br />

Georgian with a penchant for poetry,<br />

came to Texas in 1835 following his wife’s death<br />

from tuberculosis. Intrigued by letters from<br />

Texas written by his old friend James Fannin—<br />

soon to become a colonel in the Texian army<br />

during Texas’ fight for independence from<br />

Mexico—Lamar came to the province intending<br />

to write a book on its history. He never wrote<br />

the book, but he ended up making some of the<br />

history that could have gone into it.<br />

Following the March 6, 1836 fall of the<br />

Alamo and the massacre of Fannin and his<br />

men near Goliad on March 27, Lamar joined<br />

Sam Houston’s army as a private but soon was<br />

a colonel. He distinguished himself at San<br />

Jacinto on April 21, receiving high praise<br />

from Houston. When Houston was elected<br />

President of the new Republic, Lamar took<br />

office as Vice President.<br />

The authors of the Republic’s Constitution,<br />

wary of a too-powerful chief executive, limited<br />

the President’s time in office to two years and<br />

barred consecutive terms. It would seem natural<br />

that Houston would want his Vice President as<br />

his successor, but the two men, vastly different<br />

in temperament, had pulled apart during his<br />

administration. Despite Houston’s best efforts to<br />

thwart it, Lamar was elected President.<br />

In the fall of 1838, seeking the restorative<br />

qualities of life on the hunt, the Presidentelect<br />

and his private secretary, the Reverend<br />

Edward Fontaine, rode northwest from<br />

Houston to the Ranger post on Walnut Creek.<br />

From there, joined by six Rangers to serve as<br />

guides and protection against Indians, Lamar<br />

set out on a buffalo hunt.<br />

Riding upriver from the fort, Lamar’s<br />

entourage reached Harrell’s cabin at Waterloo,<br />

where they camped for the night near his splitlog<br />

corral. They were awakened early by Harrell’s<br />

young son, who excitedly told them that the<br />

prairie to the north was covered with buffalo.<br />

Lamar and the Rangers saddled up.<br />

Quickly overtaking the herd, the hunters<br />

scattered, each in pursuit of a shaggy buffalo.<br />

With his pistol, Lamar killed a big bull along<br />

the trail leading uphill from the river.<br />

Regrouping on a hill in answer to a bugle<br />

call from one of the Rangers, Lamar and the<br />

Rangers took in the view.<br />

“Gentlemen,” Lamar said in time, “this<br />

should be the seat of future empire.”<br />

The only source for this prophetic, oftpublished<br />

remark was the Reverend<br />

Fontaine’s son, who told the story years after<br />

his father and the other participants were<br />

dead. Even if the observation attributed to<br />

Lamar is only a legend, Lamar’s actions as<br />

president after taking office in December<br />

speak for themselves.<br />

On January 14, 1839, the new President<br />

signed an act passed by the first session of the<br />

Third Texas Congress empowering five commissioners<br />

to select a site for the Republic’s<br />

capital. The act also gave the commission<br />

authority to buy, through condemnation if<br />

needed, from one to four leagues of land as a<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

12


seat of government. Named to the commission<br />

were A. C. Horton of Matagorda, I. W.<br />

Burton of Nacogdoches, William Menifee of<br />

Colorado (a long-vanished community near<br />

present-day La Grange), Isaac Campbell of<br />

San Augustine and Louis P. Cooke of Brazoria.<br />

After spending eleven weeks trekking<br />

across the wilds of the new Republic in search<br />

of the suitable site for its capital, the five commissioners<br />

became good friends. Had they<br />

encountered hostile Indians, a distinct possibility,<br />

they would have had to stand together<br />

to stay alive. But that did not mean they all<br />

thought alike. They did not agree on where<br />

the seat of government should be.<br />

Burton and Campbell wanted the capital to<br />

be on the more populated Brazos. Cooke and<br />

Menifee voted for a site on the Colorado.<br />

Breaking the tie was up to Horton, who sided<br />

with Cooke and Menifee. The next issue was<br />

where on the Colorado the capital would be:<br />

Bastrop or farther upstream at Waterloo?<br />

Despite what must have been spirited<br />

debate behind closed doors, the report the<br />

commission submitted to Lamar on April 13<br />

showed no sign of discord: “It was unanimously<br />

determined that Waterloo, and the<br />

lands around it, was the proper site.” The<br />

commissioners admitted that other sites were<br />

closer to the existing centers of population,<br />

but the location selected was central to the<br />

entire Republic “and this in connection with<br />

the great desideratums of health, fine water,<br />

stone, stone coal, water power, &c, being<br />

more abundant on the Colorado than on the<br />

Brassos [Brazos] river.”<br />

When roads from Texas seaports to Santa<br />

Fe and from the Red River to Mexico were<br />

opened, the report continued, the “two routs<br />

[sic] must almost of necessity intersect each<br />

other at this point.” In their only mistaken<br />

judgment, the commissioners also predicted<br />

the capital would be the “emporium” of “the<br />

Produce of the rich mining country known to<br />

exist” on the streams to the west. Texans of the<br />

era assumed that the Spanish had discovered<br />

and mined productive veins of gold and silver<br />

in the hills west of the Colorado, but neither<br />

metal was ever found in commercial quantity.<br />

The commissioners went on to express<br />

their belief that “a truly national city could, at<br />

no other point within the limits assigned<br />

them, be reared up” at the site they had<br />

picked on the Colorado.<br />

Near the end of the report was a sentence<br />

that the aesthetically-minded Lamar must<br />

have found pleasing: “The imagination of<br />

even the romantic will not be disappointed on<br />

viewing the valley of the Colorado, and the<br />

fertile and gracefully undulating woodlands<br />

and luxuriant Prairies at a distance from it.”<br />

For $3 an acre, the Republic bought 7,700<br />

acres on the Colorado River at Waterloo. The<br />

townsite for the capital city would be one<br />

mile square, 640 acres.<br />

Lamar named political ally Judge Edwin<br />

Waller, a Virginian who had come to Texas in<br />

1832, to oversee the surveying of the new capital<br />

and the construction of government buildings.<br />

Waller hired L. J. Pilie and Charles<br />

Schoolfield to lay out the new city. Most <strong>Austin</strong><br />

histories credit that work to William H.<br />

Sandusky, but he entered the picture a bit later,<br />

following Pilie’s arrest for theft. A “volunteer<br />

jury” found Pilie guilty of stealing $3,500 and<br />

then graciously agreed to handle the punishment<br />

phase of the proceeding as well. The surveyor<br />

was tied to a “liberty pole” and flogged.<br />

The man who laid out the capital of Texas was<br />

then banished from the city he designed.<br />

Sandusky, born in Columbus, Ohio and<br />

raised in Illinois, surveyed the outlots and<br />

made copies of Pilie’s townsite map. The onemile<br />

square townsite had ten squares set aside<br />

for public purposes, including a capitol, a<br />

presidential house, an arsenal and magazine,<br />

a penitentiary and a hospital, as well as<br />

churches, schools, a university and four public<br />

squares. The government earmarked<br />

$113,000 for construction of the statehouse<br />

and other public buildings.<br />

By May 1839, 200 workmen were camped<br />

along Waller Creek and at Durham’s Spring,<br />

near the present-day intersection of Sixth and<br />

Neches Streets. “Drawn from all the<br />

nationalZities of the world—of all colors,<br />

classes and characters [Waller’s] employees<br />

were wild characters, many of them turbulent<br />

and restless under control,” an early-day<br />

biographer of Waller later wrote. The workmen,<br />

most of them inexperienced, labored<br />

through the summer, living mainly on dried<br />

CHAPTER<br />

ONE<br />

13


✧<br />

Above, right: Edwin Waller was a 39-yearold<br />

land commissioner in Brazoria County<br />

when President Lamar sent him to Waterloo<br />

to survey, sell lots, and oversee the building<br />

of the Republic’s government buildings.<br />

Below: The first Capitol in <strong>Austin</strong> stood on<br />

the northeast corner of Hickory (Eighth)<br />

and Colorado streets. The stockade<br />

surrounding the Capitol protected against<br />

surprise attacks by Comanches.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

beef, corn bread and spring water. Too, they<br />

had to be constantly on guard against Indian<br />

attacks. In fact, two men caught alone on<br />

Waller Creek were killed and scalped.<br />

As construction of government buildings<br />

continued apace, Bastrop County Sheriff John<br />

King presided over the first sale of lots on<br />

August 1. Prospective property owners, along<br />

with speculators, gathered under a mott of<br />

liveoak trees in the public square at Pine<br />

(Fifth) and Guadalupe streets. By the end of<br />

what must have been a long, hot day, 301 lots<br />

had been auctioned. Prices realized ranged<br />

from $120 to $2800 for Lot 6, Block 55, at<br />

Pecan (Sixth Street) and Congress. The same<br />

high-end price was realized for a lot on the<br />

northeast corner of Cedar (Fourth) and<br />

Congress, but it later was forfeited to the<br />

Republic for lack of payment, as were seventy-six<br />

other lots. One hundred twenty-seven<br />

men had purchased property amounting to<br />

$182,525, a staggering amount for the time<br />

and more than enough to repay the Republic’s<br />

lean treasury for the money being expended<br />

in construction of the Capitol and other government<br />

buildings.<br />

The buyer of the lot at the corner of Pecan<br />

(Sixth) and Congress was Richard Bullock,<br />

who built <strong>Austin</strong>’s first hotel on the site. The<br />

two-story frame-and-log structure soon<br />

became the social center of the city.<br />

In addition to everything else, Waller also<br />

had to deal politically with the downstream<br />

community of Montopolis, which had complained<br />

about being passed over by the selection<br />

committee.<br />

A man who knew Waller, Judge George H.<br />

Gray, later recalled that Waterloo consisted of<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

14


three families, with the rival town of<br />

Montopolis—just two miles from the newly<br />

staked out Congress Avenue—having only two<br />

families. “Quite a jealousy grew up between<br />

the towns,” Gray wrote, “but all differences<br />

were amicably settled on the first Indian raid,<br />

which happened in a very short time [after<br />

Waterloo’s selection as the new capital].”<br />

In four months, Waller and his men had<br />

constructed a seat of government on the far<br />

frontier of the young Republic. Twenty-one<br />

government buildings occupied twenty-three<br />

lots. <strong>Austin</strong>—like Rome— had not been built<br />

in a day. But like Rome, it rose on a series of<br />

seven hills. The one-story Capitol, 110 by 50<br />

or 60 feet, had gone up on one of those hills<br />

at Hickory (Eighth) and Colorado. To the east<br />

across Congress Avenue was the two-story<br />

President’s House on another prominence at<br />

Bois d’Arc (Seventh) and Brazos. The government<br />

workers even built “necessaries,” a 19th<br />

century euphemism for outhouses. All the<br />

structures were of pine hauled by ox-drawn<br />

wagons from an isolated coniferous forest east<br />

of Bastrop and cedar (mountain juniper) cut<br />

west of <strong>Austin</strong>. Inauspicious compared to<br />

most capital cities of the world, the whitewashed<br />

public buildings of the new Republic<br />

gleamed in the bright fall sunlight. Smelling<br />

of fresh-cut wood, they were a lot more comfortable<br />

than tents.<br />

In September, a wagon train arrived from<br />

the town of Houston with the records of the<br />

Republic. On October 17, a delegation of<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>ians (as residents of the new capital<br />

were known until “<strong>Austin</strong>ite” gained common<br />

usage) met President Lamar about two miles<br />

out and escorted him to town.<br />

Admitting that he was no orator, Waller<br />

addressed the President and his cabinet.<br />

“In the name of the citizens of <strong>Austin</strong>, I cordially<br />

welcome you and your Cabinet to the<br />

new metropolis,” he said. “Under your fostering<br />

care may it flourish, and, aided by its salubrity<br />

of climate and its beauty of situation, become<br />

famous among the cities of the New World.”<br />

A six-pound cannon fired twenty-one<br />

times in salute as the Presidential party<br />

retired to Bullock’s Hotel for dinner and a<br />

round of celebratory toasts that lasted five<br />

hours. The <strong>Austin</strong> City Gazette reported that<br />

the party went through thirteen “regular<br />

toasts,” from the first, which honored<br />

President Lamar, down to a round of drinks<br />

in honor of the late Benjamin Milam, hero of<br />

the Battle of San Antonio in 1835. Following<br />

these regular toasts came twenty-one “volunteer’s<br />

toasts and sentiments,” though after<br />

✧<br />

The Lone Star flag flew over the first<br />

Capitol of the Republic of Texas,<br />

built in 1839.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

ONE<br />

15


✧<br />

This well-known statue of Stephen F. <strong>Austin</strong>, dressed in buckskins and holding a rifle, was sculpted by Elisabet Ney.<br />

raising his glass thirty-four times, the Gazette<br />

writer may not have recalled every single<br />

salutatory drink by the time he was able to<br />

compose his account of the event.<br />

By act of the Fourth Texas Congress,<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> was incorporated as a city on<br />

December 27, 1839. Seventeen days later<br />

Waller was unanimously elected its first<br />

mayor, receiving 187 votes.<br />

At the time Waller assumed office, the new<br />

capital was in Bastrop County, its county seat<br />

a long day’s horseback ride downriver. But on<br />

January 25, 1840, the Republic’s Congress<br />

voted to lop a huge chunk of land from<br />

Bastrop County and make <strong>Austin</strong> the seat of a<br />

new political subdivision named in honor of<br />

Alamo hero William Barrett Travis.<br />

The same month Travis County came into<br />

being, a census by Amos Roark found that<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> had a population of 856—550 men,<br />

61 women, and 100 children. In addition to<br />

73 “professors of religion,” Roark enumerated<br />

35 mechanics, six doctors and four lawyers.<br />

The population supported nine stores, nine<br />

groceries, six inns, two printing offices, two<br />

tailor shops, two silversmith shops, and<br />

twenty gamblers equipped with six faro tables<br />

and one billiard table.<br />

“Its location for a small city is rather handsome<br />

than otherwise, but the lots have been<br />

made entirely too small, particularly in their<br />

depth,” the Reverend Mr. Beverly Waugh, a<br />

Methodist bishop, wrote of <strong>Austin</strong> in 1841.<br />

Houses in the new capital “are but little in<br />

advance of shanties and cabins,” Waugh continued.<br />

“The President’s house forms an exception.<br />

It is situated on a high hill overlooking<br />

the city, and is a two story building, painted<br />

white, and indicating from its exterior a house<br />

which may have been finished within. If this<br />

description of the metropolis should appear<br />

strange to any one, let him recollect that <strong>Austin</strong><br />

is an infant city—of an infant republic.”<br />

While its appealing geography was the<br />

prime factor figuring in the location of<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, politics is what kept the city alive and<br />

at various times threatened to kill it. For nearly<br />

a quarter century, whether <strong>Austin</strong> would be<br />

Texas’ permanent capital remained in doubt.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

16


“OUR EXPERIMENTAL<br />

GOVERNMENT HAS FAILED”<br />

In the spring of 1842, New York-born surveyor Warren Ferris wrote his brother Charles from<br />

the East Texas community of Crockett.<br />

“Our experimental government has failed,” he penned, referring to the Republic of Texas.<br />

“Emigration has ceased. The people are barely able to get the absolute necessaries of life…nine out<br />

of ten cannot pay their taxes.”<br />

The situation was so bad, he continued, that the Republic’s postal system “has failed…discontinued<br />

the mail [Ferris’ emphasis].”<br />

While lack of revenue was a definite problem, Texans had more than that to worry about.<br />

Mexico, which had never recognized Texas’ independence, continued to pose a serious threat to<br />

the new Republic. Santa Anna was back in the presidential palace and his rhetoric was not assuring<br />

to Texans. Also back in office for a second term was the man who defeated the Mexican general<br />

at San Jacinto, Sam Houston, newly-married and foresworn of alcohol.<br />

Clearly, conditions in the Republic were as sobering as the stern admonitions of Houston’s<br />

Baptist wife, Margaret Lea. In March 1842, 500 Mexican troops under General Rafael Vásquez<br />

marched up from the Rio Grande and took San Antonio with little effort on March 5, the day before<br />

the sixth anniversary of the Alamo. The invasion, while more a punitive expedition than a full-scale<br />

attempt to reclaim Texas, created panic in the Republic. President Houston, invoking executive<br />

✧<br />

Despite efforts made toward beautification<br />

and landscaped terraces, the 1853 Capitol<br />

attracted more criticism than compliments.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

TWO<br />

17


✧<br />

Above: In his prime, General Sam Houston<br />

led Texians to victory at San Jacinto.<br />

ETCHING COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Above, right: Portrait. As President of the<br />

young Republic of Texas, Sam Houston<br />

opposed <strong>Austin</strong> as the capital city and also<br />

helped trigger the Archive War. Later, as<br />

Governor, Houston lost much of his political<br />

support when he opposed Secession.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

18<br />

power, ordered the seat of government<br />

removed from <strong>Austin</strong>. Most of the capital’s<br />

residents quickly left as well.<br />

After General Vásquez issued a proclamation<br />

that Mexican law still held sway in Texas,<br />

the Mexican force withdrew from Texas<br />

almost as abruptly as it had arrived. The<br />

dozen or so families who had stayed in <strong>Austin</strong><br />

felt more threatened by Houston’s designs on<br />

the government records than they did by<br />

Mexican troops. A committee of vigilance was<br />

formed and its chairman made it known that<br />

the papers of the Republic—primarily land<br />

records—were not going to leave <strong>Austin</strong>, even<br />

if Houston had effectively pulled the rest of<br />

the government back to Washington-on-the-<br />

Brazos by ordering that Congress convene<br />

there in October.<br />

In September, a larger Mexican contingent<br />

returned to San Antonio. Troops occupied the<br />

city less than a month, however, before withdrawing<br />

again. While the mood of Congress<br />

seemed to be to retain <strong>Austin</strong> as the capital<br />

even though it was temporarily vacated,<br />

Houston decided to act unilaterally to get the<br />

government records moved east to<br />

Washington-on-the Brazos.<br />

Houston, who had once referred to the<br />

new capital as “that damned hole,” issued<br />

secret orders to raise a militia company to<br />

travel to <strong>Austin</strong> and seize the records. The<br />

President’s cover story was that the citizensoldiers<br />

under the command of Colonel<br />

Thomas Smith were being activated to put<br />

down an Indian uprising.<br />

A vigorous norther was blowing on the<br />

morning of December 30, when three wagons<br />

escorted by a score or so of armed men were<br />

seen headed up Congress Avenue. Soon they<br />

reached the log building that served as the<br />

Land Office and began loading boxes of<br />

records into the wagons. Angelina Belle<br />

Eberly, who ran a boarding house, sounded<br />

the alarm.<br />

Houston’s men were on their way out of<br />

town with ten boxes of government papers<br />

before a small force of <strong>Austin</strong> men mustered<br />

to take up the matter. As the wagons rolled<br />

north toward Kinney’s Fort on Brushy Creek,<br />

where the soldiers intended to stay for the<br />

night, a brass howitzer loaded with grapeshot<br />

was fired in their direction. But the wagons<br />

already were almost out of range and no one<br />

was hurt. Folklore has it that Mrs. Eberly<br />

touched off the gun, but no documentation<br />

has ever been found.<br />

The ad hoc welcoming committee withdrew<br />

to recruit more volunteers and warm up<br />

over a drink or two. Reinforced literally and<br />

figuratively, the <strong>Austin</strong> party rode north to<br />

catch up with the wagons carrying the<br />

nation’s archives.<br />

Colonel Smith and his men woke up the<br />

next morning to discover they were surrounded<br />

by armed men determined to get the<br />

government records back. To underscore<br />

their point, the <strong>Austin</strong> men had brought<br />

along the howitzer, reloaded with another<br />

charge of grapeshot. Seeing no need for<br />

unpleasantness on New Year’s Eve, the<br />

colonel agreed to return the records to <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

“The scene was a rich and rare one when<br />

the returning victors were met and welcomed<br />

by the ladies of <strong>Austin</strong>,” a journalist who<br />

probably knew some of the participants wrote<br />

thirty years later. The “archive warriors” were<br />

honored by the women “not only with their<br />

smiles and embraces, but with their loudest<br />

huzzas of approbation.”<br />

Captain Mark B. Lewis, leader of the<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> volunteers, did not live out the year.


He was killed some months later during an<br />

argument over politics. <strong>Austin</strong>ians were contentious<br />

folks.<br />

Later in the year, when Comptroller James<br />

B. Shaw and a judge came to <strong>Austin</strong> merely<br />

to collect some blank forms for the government’s<br />

use, James M. Morphis wrote in<br />

his 1874 History of Texas, “they went away<br />

without them…the tails and manes of their<br />

horse and mule sheared, and with their<br />

mule’s ear cropped.”<br />

Though the miniature insurrection that<br />

later came to be called the Archives War kept<br />

the government’s records in <strong>Austin</strong>, its citizens<br />

had not been particularly effective in<br />

dealing with hostile Indians. A person venturing<br />

too far from <strong>Austin</strong> was taking a big risk.<br />

“Singular as it may appear,” the Clarksville<br />

Northern Standard observed, “the capital of<br />

Texas is the extreme frontier town and, what<br />

may appear even more singular, the Indians<br />

have been frequently known to enter the<br />

principal streets and… have even robbed and<br />

even murdered the inhabitants of the seat of<br />

government, with[in] a few hundred yards of<br />

the capital.”<br />

On the third day after the unsuccessful<br />

raid on the archives, Alexander Coleman and<br />

William Bell left a public meeting in <strong>Austin</strong><br />

and headed out of town on the Bastrop road<br />

in a buggy, accompanied by Joseph Hornsby<br />

and James Edmonson on horseback.<br />

When the two riders topped Robertson’s<br />

Hill east of the city, they saw Coleman and<br />

Bell suddenly alight from their wagon, hurriedly<br />

climb a rail fence and then run across a<br />

field. Soon they realized why the two men<br />

were acting so strangely: thirty or so Indians<br />

had ridden up on them. The Indians dismounted,<br />

went over the fence, and pursued<br />

the men on foot.<br />

As the two men on horseback continued<br />

to look on, the Indians overtook the fleeing<br />

men. Bell fell dead, full of arrows. The<br />

Indians were about to kill Coleman, who<br />

was pleading for his life, when Hornsby<br />

and Edmonson made a gutsy decision.<br />

Though they had only one pistol between<br />

them, they kicked their horses’ flanks and<br />

charged downhill, yelling, and firing the single-shot<br />

handgun.<br />

The bluff worked. Believing more Texans<br />

were right behind the two riders, the Indians<br />

freed Coleman, who had had most of his<br />

clothes ripped off, and scattered for the<br />

brush. As Coleman ran back to town for help,<br />

Hornsby and Edmonson kept up the pursuit.<br />

More men with guns soon joined the chase,<br />

killing three Indians and capturing their horses<br />

and accoutrements.<br />

The killing of Bell was not an isolated incident.<br />

In the twelve-year period from 1833 to<br />

1845, at least twenty-nine men, women, and<br />

children died violently at the hands of<br />

Indians within the city limits of <strong>Austin</strong> or<br />

inside Travis County. During that time, the<br />

county never had more than some 850 residents,<br />

and for much of the period far fewer<br />

than that. Based on that maximum population,<br />

the mortality rate from Indian hostilities<br />

amounted to at least three out of every one<br />

hundred people. The actual ratio probably<br />

was even higher.<br />

The attack on Coleman and Bell happened<br />

near where a member of the French diplomatic<br />

corps, Alphonse Dubois de Saligny,<br />

soon began construction of a house that<br />

would serve as his country’s legation in Texas.<br />

The young Frenchman had come to <strong>Austin</strong> in<br />

January 1840 in response to France’s formal<br />

recognition of the Texas Republic. The United<br />

States and Great Britain also sent representatives<br />

to Texas, but neither were as colorful or<br />

controversial as de Saligny.<br />

✧<br />

This dramatic depiction of Angelina Belle<br />

Eberly firing a cannon at wagons carrying<br />

the Republic’s archives away from <strong>Austin</strong><br />

probably has no foundation in fact. Mrs.<br />

Eberly’s actual role has been expanded<br />

into the realm of Texas mythology.<br />

ETCHING COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

TWO<br />

19


✧<br />

When Texas entered the Union in 1845,<br />

the new state was cash-poor but land-rich.<br />

In 1850 Texas sold 67 million acres—parts<br />

of what would become the states of New<br />

Mexico, Oklahoma, Kansas, Colorado,<br />

and Wyoming—to the United States.<br />

MAP COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

The charge d’affaires, known<br />

for his partying and propensity<br />

for accumulating unpaid bills,<br />

soon became embroiled in a<br />

dispute known as the “Pig<br />

War.” It started when a group<br />

of meandering pigs entered the<br />

Frenchman’s residence (802<br />

San Marcos Street, <strong>Austin</strong>’s oldest<br />

building), and, as he later<br />

described it, “penetrated to my<br />

bedroom and ate my linen and<br />

destroyed my papers.” The<br />

diplomat instructed his servant<br />

to kill any other pigs that ventured<br />

onto the diplomat’s property.<br />

Following orders, the servant<br />

responded to the next<br />

incursion with deadly force.<br />

The trespassing swine happened<br />

to belong to hotelier<br />

Richard Bullock, to whom de<br />

Salingny also owed money. The situation escalated<br />

when Bullock thrashed the servant and<br />

made it known that the charge d’affaires might<br />

be next. The diplomat demanded government<br />

action against Bullock. When nothing was<br />

done about the assault, the Frenchman indignantly<br />

left <strong>Austin</strong> for New Orleans, severely<br />

straining Franco-Texan relations.<br />

The Republic of Texas, though providing<br />

only minimal protection for its citizens—not<br />

to mention its pigs and foreign diplomats—<br />

endured longer than all but the most naively<br />

optimistic expected. The hope of most<br />

Texans, expressed in an election shortly after<br />

Houston became their first President, had<br />

always been that Texas would be annexed to<br />

the United States. It merely took almost a<br />

decade for it to happen.<br />

Such government as the Republic could<br />

provide was handled out of Washington-onthe-Brazos,<br />

which, for all practical purposes,<br />

despite <strong>Austin</strong>’s retention of the government<br />

records, was the capital until Anson Jones<br />

succeeded Houston as President late in 1844.<br />

During the nearly two-year hiatus following<br />

the archives incident, <strong>Austin</strong> had become a<br />

virtual ghost town, with barely 200 residents.<br />

With the change in administration, plans<br />

were in the works to move the Texas Congress<br />

back to <strong>Austin</strong> when the United States<br />

Congress passed an annexation resolution on<br />

March 1, 1845.<br />

Jones, whose principal accomplishment in<br />

office was presiding over the transition from<br />

independent Republic to statehood, issued a<br />

proclamation setting a convention in <strong>Austin</strong><br />

for July 4 to consider the annexation proposed<br />

by the United States. In effect, the capital<br />

had returned to <strong>Austin</strong>. Sixty-one<br />

deputies met for fifty-five days before voting<br />

60-1 in favor of annexation.<br />

The Houston Morning Star reported on<br />

January 13 that “the Steam Ship Alabama<br />

had arrived in Galveston and brought the joyful<br />

news that the bill for the Admission of<br />

Texas into the Union had passed the<br />

American Senate on the 22nd and that ‘The<br />

resolutions were then, by consent read a third<br />

time and passed.’”<br />

A little more than a month later, on<br />

February 19, 1846, the last President of the<br />

Republic spoke to a crowd gathered outside<br />

the frame Capitol west of Congress Avenue.<br />

As the Lone Star flag was lowered and the<br />

Stars and Stripes went up, Jones said: “May<br />

the Union be perpetual and may it be the<br />

means of conferring the benefits and blessings<br />

upon the people of all the States.… The final<br />

act in this great drama is now performed. The<br />

Republic of Texas is no more.”<br />

Three years into statehood, <strong>Austin</strong> still had<br />

little to offer but its scenery. Friedrich<br />

Schlecht, newly arrived in Texas from<br />

Germany, approached the capital on horseback<br />

from the southwest, moving down<br />

Spring Creek (now called Barton Creek) to<br />

the Colorado.<br />

“I found the wooded land along the bottomland<br />

of the Colorado very impressive,” he<br />

later wrote.<br />

Schlecht, noting that <strong>Austin</strong>’s hills “lent to its<br />

charm,” judged that the state’s capital amounted<br />

to maybe two hundred houses and buildings.<br />

The modest wooden buildings housing<br />

the offices of government seemed to<br />

dominate their surroundings. The view<br />

from here was quite impressive—a continuous,<br />

park-like countryside as far as<br />

the eye could see. However, this town<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

20


seemed less animated to me than I would<br />

have imagined a similar city where the<br />

seat of government was located.<br />

Describing <strong>Austin</strong> as “less animated” than<br />

he expected a capital city to be was quite an<br />

understatement, though Schlecht would not<br />

have realized it. Two years after the German<br />

passed through town, the U.S. Census for<br />

1850—the first federal reckoning of <strong>Austin</strong>’s<br />

population—counted only 629 residents.<br />

That was a drop of 26.5 per cent from the<br />

1840 estimate.<br />

Small though the town was, the majority of<br />

Texas voters thought <strong>Austin</strong> should continue<br />

as the capital city. By a comfortable two to one<br />

margin, <strong>Austin</strong> won over four East Texas<br />

towns—Tehuacana, Palestine, Huntsville and<br />

Washington-on-the-Brazos—in an election<br />

held March 4, 1850 to determine the location<br />

of the capital for the next twenty years. Two of<br />

the four communities that had been in the running,<br />

Tehuacana (the Limestone County town<br />

came in second with 3,142 votes to <strong>Austin</strong>’s<br />

count of 7,679 votes) and Washington-on-the-<br />

Brazos, would become quasi-ghost towns in<br />

little more than a decade.<br />

In addition to a guarantee of its status as the<br />

seat of government for at least the next two<br />

decades, <strong>Austin</strong> benefited from the U.S. military’s<br />

establishment of a line of forts west of the<br />

city to protect the frontier from hostile Indians.<br />

Settlers in the Hill Country still had to keep a<br />

careful eye out for Comanche raiders, but<br />

Travis County was fairly safe. <strong>Austin</strong> finally<br />

began to grow from village to town.<br />

“Upwards of 100 residences have been<br />

completed in the last four months,” the Texas<br />

State Gazette reported in the spring of 1851.<br />

“This is, if providence should hold out, agoing<br />

to surpass eney citty in the west,”<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>ite William Holt wrote to an acquaintance<br />

back in Mississippi, his optimism<br />

stronger than his spelling.<br />

Two brick kilns were in operation near the<br />

mouth of Shoal Creek. “There is 50 persons<br />

engaged in making brick at this time,” Holt<br />

wrote. “Brick is worth $10 a thousand.”<br />

When fired, clay from the river turned into a<br />

sand-colored brick that would “compare<br />

favorably with the best brick made in the<br />

South,” as the State Gazette put it. A two-story<br />

store at Bois d’Arc (Seventh) and Congress<br />

soon went up, the first brick building in the<br />

city, coming thirteen years after its founding.<br />

The commissioners who picked old<br />

Waterloo as the site of the capital had noted<br />

the ample supply of limestone in the area, but<br />

no significant quarrying occurred until 1851,<br />

when the state embarked on the most ambitious<br />

building program the young city had<br />

seen since 1839. The first structure was a<br />

one-story stone building for the land office,<br />

but the repository of Texas’ land grant records<br />

and maps would need a bigger home soon. A<br />

year later, the state put up a two-story stone<br />

building for its treasury. The attractive Greek<br />

Revival structure, in the northeast quadrant<br />

of the square at the head of Congress Avenue<br />

intended for the Capitol, cost $35,000.<br />

For the first time in Texas history, that treasury<br />

actually held a surplus. One of the conditions<br />

of Texas’ admittance to the Union was that<br />

it would pay off the debt it had built up as a<br />

Republic. In 1850, Texas sold 67 million<br />

acres—parts of what would become the states of<br />

New Mexico, Oklahoma, Kansas, Colorado and<br />

Wyoming—to the United States to repay that<br />

debt. Of the $10 million sale price, Texas had $3<br />

million left over after its debt was retired.<br />

The state had money but <strong>Austin</strong>’s remote<br />

location kept prices high. A barrel of good<br />

✧<br />

The Lone Star flag flew over the Capitol of<br />

the Republic of Texas until annexation to<br />

the United States became official. The U.S.<br />

flag replaced the flag of the Republic and,<br />

on February 19, 1846, President Anson<br />

Jones declared “The Republic of Texas is<br />

no more.”<br />

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

TWO<br />

21


✧<br />

Above: Mule-drawn stagecoaches carried<br />

the mail and provided transportation. The<br />

daily 80-mile trip to San Antonio cost $10.<br />

Below: “Buaas Hall & Garden, 1869, Pecan<br />

Street, <strong>Austin</strong>, Texas.” This drawing by<br />

Franz Gustav Blau, a draftsman at the<br />

Land Office, shows the popular public hall.<br />

There were other entertainment centers but<br />

when John L. Buaas’ hall opened on June<br />

21, 1860 with Peters’ Patent Gas Lamps, an<br />

eight-octave piano, and a “large refreshment<br />

Saloon,” it quickly became a favorite.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

22<br />

whiskey cost $10, with what<br />

one resident called “common<br />

whiskey” going for $3 a gallon.<br />

A barrel of Irish potatoes was<br />

half as much as a barrel of<br />

whiskey. Bacon went for 18<br />

cents a pound, meal (ground<br />

corn) for $1 to $1.25 a pound,<br />

coffee 16 to 18 cents a pound,<br />

brown sugar 10 to 15 cents a<br />

pound. A good horse cost<br />

$100 while a good mule was<br />

worth $150. Unimproved land<br />

was 50 cents to $1.50 an acre,<br />

improved land from $3.50 to<br />

$5 an acre.<br />

The story of a civil engineer<br />

from San Antonio who earned<br />

less than the value of a good<br />

mule for designing a new<br />

Capitol for Texas and whose efforts came to<br />

nothing shows that cheaper is not always<br />

best, at least when it comes to constructing<br />

public buildings.<br />

The Legislature of the new state had continued<br />

to meet in the original wooden Capitol<br />

built by the late Republic, but a new building<br />

was badly needed. On November 11, 1851,<br />

the Senate adopted a resolution asking that<br />

Governor Peter Hansbrough Bell “obtain from<br />

some competent architect or master builder, a<br />

plan of a building for a State Capitol.” The<br />

state house was to be constructed of brick or<br />

stone “on as cheap a plan as practicable.”<br />

Three days later, Francois P. Giraud, a civil<br />

engineer in San Antonio, received a letter<br />

from the Governor’s office asking if he might<br />

be interested in the project. Interested<br />

indeed, Giraud left for <strong>Austin</strong> almost immediately.<br />

Meeting with the Governor, he later<br />

recalled, he “was told…to make a plan for<br />

something [in the way of a statehouse] which<br />

would be a credit to the State.”<br />

Giraud stayed in <strong>Austin</strong> about a week,<br />

“getting the necessary information respecting<br />

quarries &c,” then returned to San Antonio<br />

and began drawing plans for “a fire proof<br />

building…with an iron dome…estimated to<br />

cost $355,000.”<br />

The engineer apparently was so busy with<br />

his work that he neglected to keep the<br />

Governor up to date on his progress. On<br />

December 20, Executive Department secretary<br />

Charles A. Harrison wrote Giraud that<br />

“Some of our Honorable Senators are becoming<br />

fidgetty [sic] about the plan and estimate<br />

for the State Capitol. I therefore told His<br />

Excellency that I would write to you by this<br />

Evening’s Mail on the subject.” Harrison, who<br />

must have met Giraud’s family when he came<br />

to <strong>Austin</strong> to talk with the Governor, added, “I<br />

hope Mrs. Giraud and family as well as yourself<br />

enjoy good health. I request you to present<br />

my best remembrances.”<br />

Five days into the new year, on January 5,<br />

1852, Harrison wrote Giraud somewhat less<br />

cordially that “the Senate are [sic] very anxious<br />

to obtain as soon as possible the plan and<br />

Estimates for the Erection of the State Capitol.<br />

Please answer this by return mail and oblige.”<br />

Giraud delivered his drawings three days<br />

later, but the “fidgetty” Senate soon decided it<br />

did not like Giraud’s vision of a new Capitol.<br />

And Giraud definitely did not like the Senate’s<br />

reaction to his $350 bill for services rendered.<br />

The body appropriated only $100 in payment.<br />

A year later, in a petition arguing for<br />

payment of the rest of his fee, he wrote, “The<br />

Senate appropriated…$100 for my plan of a<br />

building costing $355,000 and then voted<br />

$500 for the plan of a building which was to<br />

cost only $100,000.” Giraud’s claim went to<br />

the Senate Finance Committee, which forwarded<br />

it to the Select Committee, which<br />

declined to pay the bill.<br />

The San Antonio engineer and the State of<br />

Texas both would have been better off if the<br />

Senate had opted for Giraud’s plan. As Giraud<br />

had pointed out in his memorial, as petitions


were called, Texas spent five times as much<br />

money to buy plans for a cheaper building.<br />

Those drawings were made by John Brandon,<br />

a carpenter. Even Brandon later said he was<br />

paid $500 for a $60 plan.<br />

As construction proceeded, Brandon’s<br />

plan, which had taken him only three days<br />

and three nights to complete, was modified as<br />

corners were cut. Allegations later arose that<br />

some of the money saved in the construction<br />

of the Capitol did not make it back to the<br />

state treasury, but nothing ever came of a legislative<br />

investigation.<br />

A young man named Wende, a recent<br />

immigrant from Germany, who was a journeyman<br />

bricklayer and stonemason, was paid<br />

$50 a month by the contractor building the<br />

new Capitol.<br />

“The building started in the Spring of last<br />

year and, with the auxiliary buildings, which<br />

are also of stone, will take until Easter of this<br />

year,” Wende’s wife Agnes wrote her cousin in<br />

1854. “Much is spent on it because it is meant<br />

to be the same as in Berlin the ‘Session’<br />

Building.… I believe <strong>Austin</strong> will become, in<br />

time, a Posen and Berlin.”<br />

But when it was completed at a final cost<br />

of $150,000, the Texas Capitol stood not as a<br />

monument to the state but as an example of<br />

what can come out of a committee: a Greek<br />

Revival structure lacking any classical grace.<br />

One writer later said the Capitol, with a dome<br />

too small for the three-story building it sat<br />

on, looked like “a corn-crib with the half of a<br />

large watermelon on top of it.”<br />

The new structure did have a positive effect<br />

on the city where it stood: With its construction<br />

on the hill first set aside for a capitol in<br />

1839, the focus of the city shifted from Pecan<br />

(Sixth) and Congress farther north to the head<br />

of the Avenue. That in turn gave impetus for<br />

growth to the north of the Capitol. Though<br />

poorly built, the limestone state house nevertheless<br />

was the biggest building in <strong>Austin</strong> and<br />

one of the largest in the state. As buildings of<br />

masonry and brick went up, <strong>Austin</strong> was<br />

beginning to look like a city.<br />

With the new Capitol, the Texas State<br />

Times clearly had high hopes for Congress<br />

Avenue but little faith in the city’s government,<br />

as it expressed on November 18, 1854:<br />

We do not think there can be found in<br />

any State Capitol [sic] in the Union a<br />

more beautiful Street than Congress<br />

Avenue, or rather what, with an inconsiderable<br />

outlay, might be made one of<br />

the most lovely thoroughfares in the<br />

world; and yet, if something is not done,<br />

it will soon be little better than a hogwallow.<br />

The Mayor and corporation will<br />

do nothing, and every rain, such as we<br />

were visited with last week, renders matters<br />

worse, which will ultimately depreciate<br />

the value of property, while the<br />

inconsiderable sum of $2,000, paid by<br />

parties owning lots on each side of the<br />

street is all that is required. Will not<br />

some enterprising citizen of leisure interest<br />

himself in this matter? We had hoped<br />

the Grand Jury at its last session would<br />

have pronounced our corporate authorities<br />

a nuisance, but they did not do it.<br />

While the Texas State Times railed about<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>’s city government, the state was proceeding<br />

with plans to build a new house for<br />

its governor. On February 11, 1854, the<br />

Legislature had approved the expenditure of<br />

$17,000 (including $2,300 for furnishings)<br />

for “a suitable residence and out-buildings for<br />

the executive.”<br />

The 1839 “President’s House” (Mirabeau B.<br />

Lamar had been the only official occupant it<br />

✧<br />

A view of the Governor’s Mansion taken<br />

from the Capitol shows only a few homes<br />

and buildings. Most of the city’s<br />

development lay to the north of the Capitol.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

TWO<br />

23


✧<br />

Above: Abner Cook designed the elegant<br />

Greek Revival Governor’s Mansion. On June<br />

15, 1856, Elisha M. Pease became the first<br />

Governor to occupy the official residence.<br />

Below: The imposing German Romanesque<br />

limestone and brick Land Office, designed by<br />

Conrad Stremme, a Land Office draftsman,<br />

is the first building in <strong>Austin</strong> to be designed<br />

by a trained architect.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

ever had) burned in 1847. Even before<br />

its demise, later Presidents of the Republic<br />

had not deigned to live in it. The state’s first<br />

three Governors had stayed with supporters<br />

or in hotels.<br />

Abner Cook, who came to <strong>Austin</strong> the year<br />

it was surveyed and designed and built many<br />

of its houses and buildings, got the contract<br />

for the two-story brick Greek Revival<br />

Governor’s Mansion, which was completed in<br />

the spring of 1856. Governor Elisha M. Pease<br />

moved into the elegant house just southwest<br />

of the Capitol on June 15.<br />

The Governor could look out his window<br />

and watch the progress on the state’s new Land<br />

Office building. The building was designed by<br />

Conrad Stremme, a land office draftsman who<br />

had been an architectural professor in<br />

Germany before immigrating to Texas in 1849.<br />

The limestone and brick German Romanesque<br />

structure, reminiscent of a castle on the Rhine,<br />

had the distinction of being the first <strong>Austin</strong><br />

building planned by a trained architect. Built at<br />

a cost of $40,000, the new fireproof Land<br />

Office on the southeast corner of the Capitol<br />

grounds was ready for occupancy in 1857.<br />

The new state also earmarked money to benefit<br />

citizens with mental or physical disabilities.<br />

The first state facility south of the Colorado was<br />

opened in 1857 with the construction of twostory<br />

wooden buildings for what was then called<br />

the Asylum for the Deaf. Three miles north of the<br />

Capitol, work on the State Lunatic Asylum (now<br />

known as the <strong>Austin</strong> State Hospital) was begun.<br />

Larger than the Capitol, the three-and-a-half<br />

story masonry structure would be the biggest<br />

building in <strong>Austin</strong> for three decades. Seven<br />

blocks northeast of the Capitol, construction<br />

began on the Asylum for the Blind. In that era,<br />

the word “asylum” carried its original connotation<br />

as a place of refuge and safety.<br />

The state also provided a place for its dead.<br />

Though it would not receive a clear title for<br />

nearly thirty years, the state bought eighteen<br />

acres east of town for use as a cemetery. The<br />

first burial on the property was Texas hero<br />

Edward Burleson, the man who had founded<br />

Waterloo. He had died the day after<br />

Christmas in 1851.<br />

Recalling his first visit to <strong>Austin</strong> in 1858,<br />

J. H. McLean later wrote:<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> then was a string town fronted<br />

by the old capitol, and extending down<br />

the avenue two or three blocks. The<br />

Land Office had just been completed<br />

and was the most imposing and attractive<br />

building I had ever seen, and I presume<br />

overshadowed any building in the<br />

State at that time. There was no architectural<br />

display about the old capitol, a<br />

plain, massive stone structure.<br />

Visitors and locals alike might disdain the<br />

architecturally mundane state house, but a<br />

lot of history would be made inside its limestone<br />

walls.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

24


“THERE WILL BE CIVIL WAR<br />

RIGHT HERE”<br />

The old man sat alone in the basement of the Capitol at the head of Congress Avenue, whittling<br />

on a piece of pine as he leaned back in his chair.<br />

Gathered above in the House of Representatives chamber were 131 men embarked on a course<br />

of action that the big man with the knife strongly believed, as he later wrote, would “bring civil<br />

strife and bloodshed” to his beloved Texas.<br />

Six weeks earlier, citing as their authority the Constitution of the nation they had lost faith in,<br />

these men, sitting in convention, had voted to secede from the United States. The electorate of<br />

Texas ratified their action three weeks later.<br />

Now it was Saturday, March 16, 1861. The day before, convention members and all but two<br />

state officials, Governor Houston and Secretary of State E. W. Cave, had taken an oath of allegiance<br />

to the newly created Confederate States of America.<br />

The convention reconvened at noon on Saturday. The convention secretary, R. P. Brownrigg,<br />

stood before the assemblage and the spectators in the gallery and called out, “Sam Houston!”<br />

If the man in the basement heard his name, he gave no sign of it. He shaved another piece of<br />

wood off the stick in his leathery hands.<br />

“Sam Houston!” came the third and final call.<br />

The first President of the Republic of Texas, and following annexation to the United States, one<br />

of its two Senators for thirteen years, Houston had become Texas’ governor in 1859. He had kept<br />

✧<br />

Before the Civil War, the economy of the<br />

eastern third of Texas—as well as most of<br />

the states of the South—was based on<br />

agriculture and slave labor.<br />

ETCHING COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

THREE<br />

25


✧<br />

Below: A State of Texas <strong>Historic</strong>al Marker<br />

shows the original site of Anderson’s Mill,<br />

west of <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Bottom: The mill, built in 1863 on Cypress<br />

Creek by Thomas Anderson, manufactured<br />

gunpowder for the Confederate Army. In<br />

more peaceful times the mill ground grain<br />

for farmers in the vicinity.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

the dream of an independent Texas alive<br />

by defeating Santa Anna at San Jacinto. But<br />

after the election of Abraham Lincoln as<br />

President of the United States in 1860, Sam<br />

Houston had not been able to head off Texas’<br />

rush to secession.<br />

Reconvening at three o’clock that afternoon,<br />

in light of Houston “having failed to<br />

come forward and take the oath of office as<br />

prescribed by this Convention,” the convention<br />

voted 127-4 in favor of a resolution<br />

vacating the office of Governor. Lieutenant<br />

Governor Edward Clark, who had taken the<br />

Confederate oath, would be sworn in as<br />

Governor at noon the following Monday,<br />

March 18.<br />

Houston’s refusal to swear an oath of allegiance<br />

to the Confederacy marked the climax<br />

in Texas to years of political contention<br />

between the slave-holding states and the<br />

North. The 1861 secession convention in<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> was the most momentous event in the<br />

twenty-one-year history of the capital city,<br />

readily eclipsing the convention vote in 1845<br />

to accept annexation in the United States.<br />

Fed up with the federal government’s<br />

inability to stop Indian raiding on the state’s<br />

frontier, and deeply concerned that Northern<br />

Republicans would abolish slavery, many<br />

Texans fell in with the Southern sentiment<br />

that separation from the Union was the<br />

only solution. Still, a substantial minority,<br />

particularly in Travis County and in the<br />

German settlements of the Hill Country,<br />

opposed secession.<br />

One <strong>Austin</strong> woman, in a letter to Charles<br />

S. Taylor, said she feared the worst as the conflict<br />

heated to the boiling point:<br />

My Dear Uncle:<br />

…I think the people, at least some of<br />

them, have lost their reason. They are<br />

determined to have a convention, if<br />

they can’t make the Gov. call a session<br />

of the legislature, they have set the 8 of<br />

Jan. to meet, and if they keep on the<br />

way they are going on now there will be<br />

civil war right here in <strong>Austin</strong>. I never<br />

saw so much excitement politically in<br />

my life….<br />

Affectionately,<br />

E. [Eugenia] Barret<br />

Convening January 28, 1861, the convention<br />

passed an ordinance of secession on<br />

February 1. The document declaring Texas’<br />

admission to the union “repealed and<br />

annulled” would go into effect “on or after”<br />

March 2, subject to ratification by the people<br />

of Texas. The first signature beneath that of<br />

convention president Oran M. Roberts was<br />

Edwin Waller’s, the only signer of the document<br />

who also had signed Texas’ 1836 declaration<br />

of independence from Mexico.<br />

If the voters of Travis County had had their<br />

say, however, Texas would have stayed in the<br />

Union. The county ballot count was 704 to<br />

450 against secession, but of 60,826 votes tallied<br />

statewide on February 23, 1861, 46,129<br />

were for secession and only 14,697 against<br />

leaving the Union. Of 122 organized Texas<br />

counties reporting vote totals, only eighteen<br />

counties voted against secession.<br />

The Union was falling apart. Throughout the<br />

Southern states similar conventions were taking<br />

place. Newly appointed Confederate officials<br />

seized Federal property within the seceding<br />

states, and hastily-raised volunteer companies<br />

drilled and paraded.<br />

March 2, 1861 was the twenty-fifth<br />

anniversary of Texas’ declaration of independence<br />

from Mexico. It also was Sam Houston’s<br />

68th birthday. He knew he had to acknowl-<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

26


edge the convention’s action and the people’s<br />

vote, even though turnout had been light<br />

across the state, but he was not going to do it<br />

on March 2. Two days later, on March 4,<br />

Houston finally issued a lukewarm petition<br />

declaring that “a large majority of the<br />

votes…of the said Election are in favor<br />

of ‘Secession’.”<br />

The secession convention reconvened in<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> on March 5 and voted 109-2 to make<br />

Texas a state in the Confederate States of<br />

America. Houston proclaimed the action illegal,<br />

but the hero of San Jacinto had little<br />

political clout left.<br />

Still, the old general’s personal conviction<br />

that secession would be a disaster for Texas<br />

never waned. “The voice of Sam Houston<br />

rang through the land like an inspired<br />

prophet, but was drowned in the whirlwind<br />

that heralded the impending war,” one<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>ite who had sided with Houston later<br />

recalled. At one point shortly after his ouster,<br />

an enraged Houston may have decided to kill<br />

the man who had replaced him as governor.<br />

Buried in a long-forgotten 1890 profile of<br />

Matthew Addison Taylor, an <strong>Austin</strong> doctor<br />

who had been Houston’s family physician, is<br />

an account of an incident that does not seem<br />

out of character for Houston:<br />

Houston…armed himself and came<br />

down town. Before going to the capitol,<br />

he called upon his friend [Dr. Taylor].<br />

Dr. Taylor observed an unusual excitement<br />

in his voice and manner, and<br />

catching hold of his arm, exclaimed:<br />

“Governor, you are sick, sit down; what<br />

is the matter?” The Governor could<br />

scarcely speak for emotion, or anger;<br />

but finally said: “They have kicked me<br />

out; they are mad, and will live, some of<br />

them, to rue this day.” Dr. Taylor talked<br />

calmly to him, reasoned with him, and<br />

finally allayed his excitement.<br />

[Houston] arose to leave, and as he did<br />

so he took the Doctor’s hand in his and<br />

said: “Doctor, I owe you much…. I<br />

came here on my way to the capitol,<br />

fully determined to kill Clarke [sic].”<br />

Houston opened his coat and showed<br />

Taylor that he was carrying two pistols. He<br />

left the weapons in Taylor’s office and the<br />

doctor walked with him to the Governor’s<br />

office, where Clark received him graciously.<br />

Secessionist sentiment in Texas and the<br />

South was a raging prairie fire fanned by a<br />

strong wind of overconfidence and a passionate<br />

dislike of the federal system. Sleepy<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>—still a town of only 3,500 residents<br />

despite its status as state capital—was the<br />

focal point of the crisis in Texas.<br />

No matter the earlier reluctance of<br />

a majority of <strong>Austin</strong> and Travis County<br />

voters, once the war was under way, most<br />

citizens pitched in for the South. Military<br />

units organized in <strong>Austin</strong> included the<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> City Light Artillery, <strong>Austin</strong> City Light<br />

Infantry, <strong>Austin</strong> Grays, Tom Green Rifles, and<br />

Travis Rifles.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> women formed the Ladies’ Needle<br />

Battalion to sew uniforms. The Ladies Aid<br />

Society joined in the effort and women in the<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Collegiate Female Institute did their part<br />

by knitting socks. The Reverend B. J. Smith,<br />

principal of the institute, ordained that each<br />

young lady attending the school was responsible<br />

for making six pairs of woolen socks.<br />

The new state government’s military board<br />

quickly established two factories in <strong>Austin</strong> for<br />

production of paper cartridges and percussion<br />

caps. On Waller Creek, near its juncture<br />

with the Colorado, a foundry for the forging<br />

of cannon went into operation.<br />

In December 1862 it looked as if the war<br />

might reach <strong>Austin</strong>. Union forces had taken<br />

Galveston. General John Bankhead Magruder<br />

rushed to <strong>Austin</strong> to oversee fortification of the<br />

city against possible federal invasion. A hill<br />

north of town and another elevation three<br />

miles to the south overlooking the road to San<br />

Antonio were selected as points for construction<br />

of earthworks.<br />

Halfway across the state at the Confederate<br />

fortifications at Sabine Pass, near Beaumont,<br />

Major Julius G. Kellersberger, a Swiss engineer,<br />

had just issued passes for the Christmas holiday<br />

to the four officers under his command<br />

when he received a letter from headquarters:<br />

…You will start immediately to <strong>Austin</strong><br />

with ten to twenty of your men. In La<br />

✧<br />

John Bankhead Magruder, a West Point<br />

trained veteran of the Mexican War,<br />

resigned his commission in 1861 to join the<br />

Confederate Army. In December 1862,<br />

Magruder rushed to <strong>Austin</strong> to defend the<br />

city against an attack that never came. In<br />

January 1863, his decisive action against<br />

Federal troops at Galveston shielded Texas<br />

from occupation during the war.<br />

ETCHING COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

THREE<br />

27


✧<br />

Above: The Confederate flag (1861-1865)<br />

was the fifth of the Six Flags of Texas.<br />

Below: No Union shell ever fell on <strong>Austin</strong>,<br />

but the Civil War had a devastating impact<br />

on the capital city. Even though few<br />

engagements were fought on Texas soil, some<br />

of the smoke, noise, chaos, and horror of<br />

Civil War battles is suggested in this image<br />

depicting the Battle of Missionary Ridge.<br />

ETCHINGS COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Grange you will meet 500 negroes with<br />

their overseer, equipment and cooking<br />

gear, who have been put under your<br />

command. You will proceed by shortest<br />

way there, and begin immediately to<br />

fortify the place in order to protect<br />

property and houses in the event they<br />

should fall in the line of fire.<br />

Kellersberger, his officers, and slaves<br />

arrived in <strong>Austin</strong> on a cold Sunday night.<br />

“People stared at us very curiously and our<br />

arrival caused a great deal of anxiety,” the<br />

engineer later recalled. “My quarters were in<br />

an old rock house, where my men had to<br />

paste newspapers over the windows to keep<br />

out the cold…. The city itself lay at the foot of<br />

hilly terrain, and it was possible to see from<br />

one fortification to another and I became<br />

quite curious myself just how this whole<br />

thing would turn out.”<br />

Under Kellersberger’s supervision, the slaves<br />

dug a 200-foot long trench and put up earthworks<br />

at the site south of town. At the north<br />

location, to the dismay of many <strong>Austin</strong>ites, they<br />

cut down an ancient stand of oaks preparatory<br />

to construction of defensive works.<br />

The Federals did not hold Galveston long<br />

and no Union artillery shell ever fell on Texas’<br />

capital, but the Civil War had a devastating<br />

impact on the city.<br />

Many of the men who marched off to join<br />

the fight never returned. An exact figure will<br />

never be known, but based on an estimated<br />

Confederate casualty rate of 28 percent, some<br />

28,000 Texans died in the war. Many soldiers<br />

who did make it back to <strong>Austin</strong> arrived forever<br />

scarred, either physically or mentally, by<br />

the conflict.<br />

One of those men was Lieutenant Albert J.<br />

Jernigan. He joined Company G, 6th Texas<br />

Infantry in <strong>Austin</strong> in October 1861. At the<br />

Battle of Missionary Ridge, a chunk of shrapnel<br />

shattered his right arm. Surgeons amputated<br />

the limb six inches below the shoulder<br />

and later administered repeated doses of<br />

nitric acid to burn away infected flesh left<br />

behind after the amputation. Jernigan nearly<br />

died, but the wound finally began to heal and<br />

he slowly regained strength.<br />

“I found my company, originally consisting<br />

of eighty men, reduced to a little squad of<br />

thirteen,” he later wrote his mother. “What a<br />

sad commentary on war! I made application<br />

for a furlough, which was granted, and…with<br />

a large package of letters from soldiers to their<br />

friends in Texas I bid adieu to my old comrades<br />

in arms, many of whom I have never<br />

seen since, for they ‘Sleep the sleep that<br />

knows no waking.’”<br />

By the time Jernigan got home, arriving via<br />

stagecoach from Brenham, the war was over.<br />

One hundred miles east of <strong>Austin</strong>,<br />

Brenham was the western terminus for the<br />

Houston and Texas Central, a railroad line<br />

chartered on September 1, 1856. The investment<br />

capital it would have taken to extend<br />

the tracks to <strong>Austin</strong>, which would give it a<br />

connection to Galveston and maritime trade,<br />

dried up during the contentious and uncertain<br />

days before the war.<br />

By war’s end, only two of the ten railroads<br />

in Texas at the beginning of the conflict still<br />

were in operation. The Houston and Texas<br />

Central was one of those lines, but just barely.<br />

Given the South’s shattered economy after<br />

the war, no capitalists were in a hurry to risk<br />

their money on extending the line westward<br />

to <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Sam Houston, who died in Huntsville on<br />

July 26, 1863, did not live to see the outcome<br />

of the war he had warned against, but he had<br />

been right. Seccession was a disaster for Texas<br />

and for <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

28


What followed was a period of virtual<br />

anarchy. Governor Pendleton Murrah and<br />

other Confederate state officials, fearing prosecution,<br />

rode south to Mexico. Returning<br />

Confederate soldiers and townspeople alike<br />

looted government facilities, carrying off<br />

everything from coffee to gunpowder. Those<br />

crimes and others went uninvestigated.<br />

The most flagrant example of the breakdown<br />

of order happened on June 11, 1865.<br />

On that moonless Sunday night, thirty to<br />

forty armed men burglarized the State<br />

Treasury. Their efforts to peel open several<br />

safes in the two-story building made a lot<br />

of noise and the citizenry quickly realized<br />

what was happening. Soon, the bell atop<br />

the First Baptist Church rang out in alarm.<br />

Armed volunteers under recently returned<br />

Confederate Captain George R. Freeman<br />

rushed to the scene. Realizing they were out<br />

of time and luck, the thieves fled, escaping<br />

with about $17,000 in coin. They left nearly<br />

$3 million behind, though most of it was<br />

in already worthless Confederate bills or<br />

certificates and bonds that would have been<br />

difficult to cash, at least in Texas. Freeman<br />

suffered a minor wound in a brief gunfight<br />

with the gang and one of the burglars<br />

was mortally wounded. No one was ever<br />

charged with the break-in and the money<br />

never was recovered.<br />

Blue-coated soldiers did not reach <strong>Austin</strong><br />

until July 25, 1865, nearly four months after<br />

the end of the war. Additional soldiers followed<br />

and, for a time, several thousand<br />

Union troops occupied the capital city. Rows<br />

of white canvas tents went up on the Capitol<br />

grounds and along Shoal Creek near Seider’s<br />

Springs. Officers took up quarters in the<br />

Governor’s Mansion and at the Blind Asylum<br />

while doctors established a hospital in<br />

Woodlawn, former Governor Pease’s mansion<br />

west of the city. An open log stockade locals<br />

soon began calling the “Bull Pen,” located<br />

near Shoal Creek where West Sixth Street<br />

now crosses it, was constructed to contain<br />

those arrested by the military.<br />

By the end of the decade <strong>Austin</strong> had made<br />

no great strides in its development as a city,<br />

other than achieving some degree of stability,<br />

at least compared to the war years and the<br />

chaotic first few months after the fighting<br />

ended. Spending by the occupying troops<br />

had perked up the economy and goods and<br />

services were more generally available. Nearly<br />

a thousand residents had moved to town<br />

since 1860, but census takers still<br />

found only 4,448 people living<br />

there in 1870.<br />

One of those new residents was<br />

Tom Tolman, a tall young man from<br />

Maine, late of the Sixth U.S.<br />

Cavalry. He and the other members<br />

of his company had marched up<br />

Congress in 1866 to the icy stares of<br />

most <strong>Austin</strong>ites.<br />

Not long after arriving in the<br />

capital city, Lieutenant Tolman<br />

came down with “a fever,” as most<br />

contagious diseases were referred<br />

to at the time. Written off as mori-<br />

✧<br />

Above: An 1866 photograph shows an<br />

encampment of Union cavalry troops north<br />

of the Capitol. The lone mount may be the<br />

sole survivor of a storm off Cape Hatteras<br />

as the ship sailed from New York to New<br />

Orleans. Troops reached <strong>Austin</strong> November<br />

29, 1865 and marched through the city in<br />

early December.<br />

Below: A view looking north from the Capitol<br />

shows <strong>Austin</strong> still was only partially<br />

developed. Within a decade after the end of<br />

the war, a construction boom greatly increased<br />

the number of businesses and buildings.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

THREE<br />

29


✧<br />

Above: <strong>Austin</strong> was occupied by Federal<br />

troops from July 1865 until 1870. Shown<br />

in a photograph dated July 1869 is the<br />

headquarters for the Fifth Military District.<br />

In 1871, the Raymond House occupied<br />

the building.<br />

Right: Bullock’s Hotel, located on Congress<br />

Avenue between Pecan (Sixth ) and Bois<br />

d’Arc (Seventh) streets, was an important<br />

meeting place for early settlers. Notice the<br />

tall wooden flagpole and the iron bridges<br />

over the gutters.<br />

Below: The broad, unpaved Congress Avenue<br />

shows deep ruts from buggies and wagons. In<br />

this photograph looking north toward the<br />

Capitol, the San Marcos Hotel and<br />

Sampson-Henricks are on the left. The<br />

Avenue Hotel is in mid-distance on the right.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

30<br />

bund by a military doctor, Tolman<br />

lay tossing on a cot in the medical<br />

tent, his men waiting for him to die.<br />

Word reached an <strong>Austin</strong> widow,<br />

Eva Stern Barrett, that the young<br />

officer was gravely ill and expected<br />

to die. Mrs. Barrett had her former<br />

slave hitch her horse to her buggy<br />

and drive her out to the Army camp.<br />

Years later, one of Mrs. Barrett’s<br />

descendants reconstructed the conversation<br />

that occurred when she reached<br />

the military tent city.<br />

“What can I do for you,<br />

madam?” the Union colonel<br />

asked.<br />

“I came to get that sick officer,”<br />

she replied.<br />

“Why, madam—” the colonel<br />

began.<br />

“They tell me he can’t live, so<br />

he’s not worth much to you.<br />

Anyway I’ll take him and see<br />

what I can do for him. I’m a<br />

good nurse.”<br />

Mrs. Barrett succeeded in<br />

nursing Tolman back to health.<br />

Helping out, though reluctant at<br />

first, since Tolman was a Northerner, was Mrs.<br />

Barrett’s daughter, Corinne. When Tolman was<br />

strong enough to sit in a chair, Corinne read to<br />

him. Soon their conversation moved from politics<br />

to more casual discussions. When Tolman<br />

was up to it, they went riding together.<br />

Corrine’s abiding disdain of Yankees was<br />

beginning to wane.<br />

On Christmas Eve, the fully recovered and<br />

grateful Lieutenant Tolman and several enlisted<br />

“volunteers” rode west of town in a government<br />

wagon and returned with a large<br />

mountain cedar they then delivered to the<br />

Barrett residence. After the tree was decorated,<br />

the lieutenant and Corinne went for<br />

another of their now quite frequent rides. At<br />

Mount Bonnell, Tolman asked her to marry<br />

him and she said yes.<br />

As the day progressed, <strong>Austin</strong>’s drinking<br />

establishments filled with blue-coated soldiers<br />

and many of their former foes.<br />

Inhibitions and sectional resentments lowered<br />

along with the contents of the glasses<br />

and bottles in their hands. A degree of conviviality<br />

developed between them. After all, it<br />

was Christmas, and the killing was over.<br />

At the Capitol that afternoon, the regimental<br />

band of the Sixth assembled to present a<br />

concert for the citizenry. Near the end of their<br />

performance, which up to that point had<br />

been well-received by the war-weary townspeople<br />

who had turned out for the event, the<br />

band began playing “Yankee Doodle.” The<br />

soldiers in the crowd cheered, but the civilians<br />

were loud in their silence. Then the<br />

bandleader passed out new music to his<br />

musicians. When he raised his baton, the<br />

band struck up with “Dixie.”


“WE ARE BECOMING ACCUSTOMED<br />

TO THE RAILROAD WHISTLE”<br />

All over town, they climbed hills and stood on rooftops, looking east.<br />

On the hill where St. David’s Church still stands, twenty-five to thirty people gathered in anticipation<br />

of getting the first glimpse of something they had never seen before: a train.<br />

Most of them went away disappointed.<br />

The train was late, and when rain started falling, people began heading home.<br />

Late on Christmas Day, 1871, the Houston and Texas Central work train finally arrived in<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>. Three days later, the first passenger train pulled into the Capital City.<br />

“Cheer after cheer in deafening shouts arose from the assembled throng until the train cars<br />

swept up in all their majesty and stood ready to deliver the freight of 1,000 human beings, and the<br />

pealing cannon told it far and near that ‘hope deferred’ was at least realized,” the <strong>Austin</strong> Statesman<br />

reported on December 30.<br />

The <strong>Austin</strong> Brass Band began playing on the Capitol steps at 8 p.m. and <strong>Austin</strong>ites and their<br />

guests danced all night. At midnight they paused for supper, then continued cutting the rug until<br />

5 a.m.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> had become only the third major city in Texas with rail service. A new arrival to the state<br />

could now get off the ship at Galveston, get on a train a few blocks from the wharves, and ride the<br />

✧<br />

The Civil War derailed <strong>Austin</strong>’s plans to be<br />

served by a railroad. Not until December<br />

26, 1871 did the Houston and Texas<br />

Central reach the capital city. The H & TC<br />

greatly enlarged <strong>Austin</strong>’s trade center. Seen<br />

here is the crew on the run from Hemphill<br />

to <strong>Austin</strong>, ca. 1900.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

FOUR<br />

31


✧<br />

Peck’s Corner at East Pecan (Sixth) and<br />

Brazos Streets was a popular place for<br />

parties and balls and also served as<br />

headquarters for an <strong>Austin</strong> volunteer firefighting<br />

company. St. David’s Episcopal<br />

Church can be seen in the background.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

rails all the way to the center of the state via<br />

Houston, Hempstead, and Brenham.<br />

“We are becoming accustomed to the railroad<br />

whistle,” former governor Elisha Pease<br />

wrote his daughter Julia on January 14, 1872.<br />

“It is the first thing we hear in the morning and<br />

the last at night. The passenger train leaves at<br />

5 in the morning and comes in about 11 at<br />

night. I can perceive that the road has added<br />

largely to the number of visitors to our town.”<br />

Pease’s perception was quite accurate.<br />

Before the arrival of the railroad, the sole<br />

engine of <strong>Austin</strong>’s economy—other than its<br />

merchants and their customer base of local residents—was<br />

its status as state capital. When it<br />

became the westernmost point of rail service in<br />

Texas, it also became a regional trade center.<br />

Wagons with cotton, pecans, wool, and hides<br />

rolled into <strong>Austin</strong> from Fredericksburg, San<br />

Antonio, and as far away as Coleman.<br />

“Pecan Street, east of the Avenue, is<br />

becoming quite a place for business, some<br />

five or six large stone stores have been put up<br />

this summer, and as many similar stores have<br />

been put up on the Avenue,” Pease wrote in<br />

another letter to his daughter. “More dwelling<br />

houses are being erected in every part of the<br />

city, more rapidly than ever before.”<br />

For years, perceptive <strong>Austin</strong>ites like Pease<br />

had realized that <strong>Austin</strong> needed better transportation.<br />

Traveling from <strong>Austin</strong> to Houston<br />

by stagecoach took three days in good weather.<br />

In wet weather, the trip could last five or<br />

six days. Freight took longer and was expensive,<br />

sometimes $6 per hundred pounds.<br />

Hopeful of improvement, Pease during his<br />

terms as governor had signed numerous railroad<br />

charters—some of them for companies<br />

which envisioned <strong>Austin</strong> as a destination—<br />

but none had ever materialized. Even Stephen<br />

F. <strong>Austin</strong>, nearly four decades before the city<br />

which would bear his name got rail service,<br />

had written that “Texas is susceptible of great<br />

internal improvements by rail, turnpike and<br />

cannalling.” But imagination and enthusiasm<br />

in antebellum Texas always exceeded available<br />

capital. Until well after the Civil War,<br />

most of Texas’ railroads existed on paper only.<br />

“Cannalling,” of course, would be predicated<br />

on navigable rivers. <strong>Austin</strong> and other<br />

early Texans had great hopes for the Brazos<br />

and Colorado and other rivers, but reality<br />

never equalled expectation. Not that a fair<br />

amount of effort did not go into turning the<br />

state capital into a river port.<br />

Two factors made river navigation to and<br />

from <strong>Austin</strong> a problem: First, though the river<br />

was deep enough most of the time to float<br />

a shallow draft boat, during dry spells the<br />

river would get too low. Second, the Colorado<br />

near its mouth was blocked by a deep and<br />

long log raft.<br />

Several efforts had been mounted over the<br />

years to remove the raft but none succeeded.<br />

Finally, in March 1854, the Kate Ward, which<br />

had been fitted for work as a snag boat, cut a<br />

channel to circumvent the raft.<br />

For six years, steamboats plied the<br />

Colorado as far upstream as Bastrop and occasionally<br />

all the way to <strong>Austin</strong>. More often,<br />

cargo out of <strong>Austin</strong> went downstream to<br />

Bastrop by flatboat, with <strong>Austin</strong>-bound goods<br />

returning the same way.<br />

In 1851, <strong>Austin</strong> resident William Holt<br />

wrote an acquaintance in Mississippi about<br />

the expected arrival of a steamboat, probably<br />

the Colorado Ranger:<br />

She is now within five miles of <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

She will be in this place this evening. I<br />

think I see the smoke of her chimneys<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

32


just below Stonees ferry which is just<br />

two miles. She left Bare Strop [Bastrop]<br />

Thirsday and yesterday at 10 o’clock<br />

she was in 12 miles of this place….<br />

There are 25 fine cannon taken from<br />

the arsnol this morning and placed on<br />

the banks of the Colarada to give the<br />

arrival of the boat a Texas salute.<br />

Floating timber had clogged the river again<br />

by 1860. Before anything could be done<br />

about it, the Civil War reordered priorities.<br />

In 1873, another try was made to cut a<br />

channel around the log raft, but it was not<br />

successful. By that time, Texans were beginning<br />

to realize that railroads afforded more<br />

practicable transportation.<br />

The fickleness of the untamed river also<br />

kept <strong>Austin</strong> largely confined to the north side<br />

of the stream. To cross the river, a person had<br />

to walk or ride across at one of the hard rock<br />

fords or use one of two ferries. In the 1850s,<br />

a fully-loaded wagon and team could be carried<br />

across for one dollar. A man with a horse<br />

had to pay ten cents to cross, five cents if he<br />

was afoot. Cattle cost a nickel a head, while<br />

sheep, hogs or goats cost two-and-a-half cents<br />

to cross.<br />

The first effort at infrastructure came<br />

in 1869, with construction of a pontoon<br />

bridge, an engineering project consisting<br />

of twenty-one boats overlaid with oak planking<br />

and secured by two heavy iron chains.<br />

The English-made iron, however, was not<br />

equal to a flood in October 1870. The bridge<br />

washed away.<br />

“Let our citizens now move in the matter<br />

of a bridge,” the Daily State Journal urged a<br />

few days later. “We want a structure that will<br />

be solid, permanent and useful at all times—<br />

not a floating, bobbing concern, that must be<br />

removed after every rain, or run the risk of<br />

being swept to Labrador.”<br />

Until 1872, <strong>Austin</strong>’s status as the state capital<br />

was as uncertain in duration as anything<br />

built in the floodplain of the Colorado. But in<br />

an election held November 5-8 (voters had to<br />

be given ample time for travel to the polls),<br />

63,377 Texans agreed that <strong>Austin</strong> should be<br />

the permanent seat of government. Houston<br />

got 35,143 votes while 12,776 citizens cast<br />

their ballot for Waco. One hundred one other<br />

voters wrote in their preference for various<br />

other cities, including 10 who thought Bryan<br />

should be the capital. Four years later, the<br />

Constitution of 1876 made <strong>Austin</strong>’s status as<br />

the seat of government part of the state’s<br />

organic law.<br />

The railroad brought an economic boom<br />

and the electorate let <strong>Austin</strong> keep the seat of<br />

government, but Reconstruction politics in<br />

the early 1870s verged on escalating from<br />

heated rhetoric to bloodshed. <strong>Austin</strong> was a<br />

drought-dried cedar brake needing only a<br />

spark to explode into flames. In January<br />

1874, a semicolon nearly started another civil<br />

war in Texas.<br />

✧<br />

Top: For a time the 1869 Congress Avenue<br />

pontoon bridge—the first bridge to span<br />

the Colorado River at <strong>Austin</strong>—seemed to<br />

answer the need for a safe, economical<br />

crossing. In less than a year, a flood<br />

washed the bridge away.<br />

Above: <strong>Austin</strong> was becoming a city of stone<br />

and brick structures.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

FOUR<br />

33


✧<br />

Below: By the time <strong>Austin</strong>’s second railroad, the<br />

International and Great Northern, reached the<br />

capital city on January 17, 1877, there were<br />

many ways to get from here to there. A muledrawn<br />

streetcar, stagecoaches, and buggies are<br />

shown with an I&GN train.<br />

Bottom: Mud from rains and numerous<br />

small underground springs along with scars<br />

from horses’ hooves, wheel ruts from<br />

wagons and stagecoaches—and trail herds<br />

of Longhorn cattle—kept the unpaved<br />

Congress Avenue churned up. Trees and iron<br />

footbridges served a practical purpose,<br />

offering some protection for pedestrians.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Four years earlier, in November 1869,<br />

Republican Edmond J. Davis had been elected<br />

governor. During the Civil War he had<br />

served as a Union officer, commanding federal<br />

troops in action against friends and relatives<br />

of many of those who for obvious reasons<br />

voted against him. Many Texans viewed<br />

Davis as a carpetbagger, even though the<br />

Florida native and former judge had lived in<br />

Texas since 1848.<br />

As governor, Davis declared martial law on<br />

several occasions and controlled a newly-created<br />

state police force that was not popular<br />

with the people. Neither were most of his<br />

other policies. There had been talk of<br />

impeachment.<br />

But by a two to one margin, Davis was<br />

voted out of office on December 2, 1873. The<br />

new governor would be a Democrat, Richard<br />

Coke. Thirty-four days later, on January 5,<br />

1874, the Texas Supreme Court, on a<br />

trumped up technicality that had to do<br />

with the placement of a semicolon in the<br />

state election statute, ruled the election<br />

unconstitutional.<br />

Based on this decision, Davis declared that<br />

he would not vacate the office. Coke, in turn,<br />

said he would not be denied the governorship.<br />

From January 5 until January 19, like a<br />

runaway wagon hanging with two wheels off<br />

the edge of a cliff, <strong>Austin</strong> verged on civil<br />

insurrection. The Capitol became an armed<br />

camp as two different sets of party partisans,<br />

legislators and elected officials tried to keep<br />

or gain control of the building.<br />

A forgotten minor hero in the matter was<br />

A. H. “Hamp” Cox, storekeeper at the State<br />

Arsenal. He was a Davis man, but he was<br />

brave. During the noon hour on Friday,<br />

January 16, twenty armed men, members of<br />

the Travis Rifles—having turned out in support<br />

of the Coke camp—showed up outside<br />

the weapons storehouse west of the Capitol.<br />

Lieutenant A. S. Roberts demanded the keys<br />

to the arsenal.<br />

The storekeeper, who had only eight men<br />

to defend the arsenal, described what<br />

happened next in a report he wrote three<br />

days later:<br />

I refused to deliver up the keys…. Mayor<br />

[T. B.] Wheeler and I then had considerable<br />

talk, in which he in a quiet and gentlemanly<br />

manner urged the advisability in<br />

the interest of public peace and good order<br />

of my surrendering the arsenal…. I respectfully<br />

declined in consideration of my duties<br />

as a public bonded state officer. Roberts<br />

about this time drew out his watch stating<br />

that he would give me just five minutes to<br />

decide and if I didn’t give him the keys…<br />

he would kill the last man of us.<br />

Cox’s family lived adjacent to the arsenal<br />

and he asked for time to get them out of the<br />

line of fire. Chivalrously, the lieutenant of the<br />

Travis Rifles agreed.<br />

Bloodshed was averted by the efforts of<br />

Mayor Wheeler and the arrival of an armed<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

34


pro-Davis party under Captain A. C. Hill. The<br />

Travis Rifles retreated, but later that afternoon<br />

the Coke men returned with reinforcements.<br />

This time Cox was at the arsenal alone and<br />

the men forced their way in and collected all<br />

the weapons.<br />

The arsenal crisis ended when Governorelect<br />

Coke ordered that the seized weapons<br />

be returned. Still playing by the rules, Cox<br />

reported that he “refused to receive anything<br />

officially which they had forcibly taken away.”<br />

The Coke men left the weapons at the arsenal<br />

anyway. When President U. S. Grant turned<br />

down Davis’ telegraphed request for Federal<br />

troops, the governor finally agreed to step<br />

down from office. The only shooting that<br />

occurred was the 102-gun salute fired on the<br />

Capitol grounds after Coke’s inauguration.<br />

Had fighting erupted between the two<br />

factions, the President would have sent in<br />

troops and placed Texas back under military<br />

government. But with the peaceful, if tense,<br />

resolution of the matter, the era of<br />

Reconstruction was over in Texas. Under the<br />

Coke administration, the political climate<br />

cooled to a normal level of contentiousness<br />

and <strong>Austin</strong>ites returned their attention to<br />

everyday life and business.<br />

Four years after <strong>Austin</strong> got its rail connection,<br />

another form of public transportation<br />

became available on January 5, 1875: Muledrawn<br />

streetcars. On the first streetcar’s inaugural<br />

run, it overturned at Eleventh and<br />

Congress Avenue, spilling company officials<br />

into the mud. A ride on the two-mile line,<br />

which extended from Lavaca north of the<br />

Capitol to the train station, cost a nickel.<br />

In 1873, the city council had granted a<br />

franchise to a company to provide <strong>Austin</strong><br />

with gas. The gas was manufactured through<br />

a coal-firing process, which made it expensive—$5<br />

per thousand cubic feet. By 1878,<br />

the city had 44 gas streetlights.<br />

Though <strong>Austin</strong> had the urban amenities of<br />

gas lighting, rail service and streetcars, the<br />

only way to move large numbers of livestock<br />

was for men on horses to herd them. Shortly<br />

after the Civil War, Texans began to exploit a<br />

Northern taste for beef by driving longhorn<br />

cattle—wild descendants of stock brought to<br />

Texas by the Spanish—north to railheads in<br />

Kansas for shipment to markets in Kansas City<br />

and Chicago. From processing plants in those<br />

cities, Texas beef went by rail to the northeast.<br />

By the mid-1870s, thousands of head of<br />

cattle raised dust on the eastern edge of<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> along what came to be called the<br />

Chisholm Trail. As many as four or five<br />

droves a day passed through the city up East<br />

✧<br />

Above, left. Herds of longhorn cattle stirred<br />

up dust—or mud—as they pushed along<br />

Congress Avenue toward the Chisholm Trail.<br />

The ornate Travis County Courthouse (later<br />

the Walton building) stands at the head of<br />

the Avenue.<br />

Above, right: Built in 1855, the old stone<br />

Travis County courthouse and jail stood at<br />

Cedar (Fourth) and Guadalupe. But <strong>Austin</strong><br />

also was a city of churches.<br />

Below: Saddle horses, buggies, mule-drawn<br />

buckboards, and covered wagons continued<br />

to be common modes of transportation in<br />

the capital city.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

FOUR<br />

35


✧<br />

Top: Rangy longhorn cattle from South Texas ranches waded the Colorado River at hard-rock crossings to reach<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> in the days of the Chisholm Trail.<br />

Middle: Trench crews prepared Congress Avenue for electric streetcar tracks (1904-05).<br />

Above: Congress Avenue was lined with two- and three-story buildings. Covered porches extended to the curb<br />

to allow people to alight from their buggies without stepping in mud.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Avenue after splashing across the Colorado at<br />

a shallow, rocky ford east of town. The cattle<br />

and the cowboys pushing them north were<br />

just passing through, but they left behind<br />

money in addition to littering the dusty thoroughfare<br />

with the more prosaic reminders of<br />

a large animal herd.<br />

“The number of cattle that have been<br />

driven out of Texas this season to<br />

[Northern] markets is truly amazing and<br />

unparalleled,” the <strong>Austin</strong> Statesman reported<br />

on August 27, 1875.<br />

Nute Mayfield, operator of the ferry at the<br />

Montopolis ford about three miles below<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, estimated that 250,000 head of cattle<br />

worth at least $20 each would have passed<br />

near <strong>Austin</strong> by year’s end.<br />

In the half-decade since the 1870 U.S.<br />

Census, the city had more than doubled in<br />

size to an estimated 10,500. The <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Statesman claimed the city was even bigger,<br />

perhaps as large as 14,000.<br />

“<strong>Austin</strong> is growing so rapidly and her<br />

improvements are so varied, that one can<br />

hardly realize what is taking place,” the<br />

Statesman observed on June 14, 1876.<br />

Eighteen days later, as if to better illustrate<br />

the point, the newspaper reported that nearly<br />

half a million dollars in construction was<br />

under way in the city.<br />

Among the projects and their costs were: a<br />

public school building, $18,000; the threestory<br />

Brueggerhoff and Tips Building at 708<br />

Congress, $65,000; two new churches totaling<br />

$80,000; a new courthouse at 11th and<br />

Congress, $90,000; and a bridge across the<br />

river, $100,000.<br />

The wooden bridge lasted until 1882,<br />

when a stampeding herd of cattle collapsed<br />

two spans. The cattle fell fifty feet into the<br />

river, most of them drowning. In 1884, a private<br />

company began construction of an iron<br />

toll bridge on stone piers. “This bridge will<br />

stand, with light repairs at times, as long as<br />

time lasts,” the Statesman declared. Two years<br />

later, Travis County bought the bridge and<br />

eliminated the toll.<br />

The Statesman was justifiably proud of the<br />

projects under way in the city in the latter<br />

part of the 1870s, but far more significant<br />

construction projects lay ahead.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

36


LAYING CORNERSTONES<br />

Shortly before noon on November 9, 1881, the wind blew out of the north and a light rain fell<br />

from a sky as gray as an old Confederate Army coat. With the norther dropping the temperature,<br />

maybe the porter sweeping the floor in the Attorney General’s office on the first floor of the Capitol<br />

had in mind warming up the room. Or maybe Henry McBride was just getting rid of a basket of<br />

wastepaper the easy way, by stuffing the trash in the heating stove.<br />

Whatever his intention, McBride moved on to the next room, pushing his broom. Soon he<br />

smelled smoke. Running back into the room where the stove was, he found that burning paper and<br />

embers had fallen from the heater onto the wooden floor. As he watched in astonishment, the fire<br />

spread. There was nothing to do but run.<br />

A writer for the Texas Siftings was on his way home from lunch when he noticed wisps of smoke<br />

coming from one of the windows of the limestone state house.<br />

“That’s the way those State officials waste firewood,” he thought, or at least so he claimed in a<br />

tongue-in-cheek article he later wrote. “There they are toasting their sinful shins before fires in<br />

which they waste enough wood to do a respectable family for a week.”<br />

But soon the fire bell atop City Hall was ringing. The number of clangs informed the volunteer<br />

fire fighters—rushing to the hall to get their equipment—that the fire was in the 8th Ward, downtown<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

The old Capitol had been a bonfire waiting to happen.<br />

Governor Oran Roberts, remembering the 1865 robbery of the state’s treasury, feared history<br />

was repeating itself. Holdup men must have started a fire in the Capitol to divert attention, he<br />

✧<br />

Convict labor and hired stone cutters<br />

quarried red Texas granite near Marble<br />

Falls in Burnet County. Railroad flatcars<br />

hauled the massive blocks from the quarry to<br />

the <strong>Austin</strong> building site of the new Capitol.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

FIVE<br />

37


✧<br />

The old Capitol caught fire about noon on<br />

November 9, 1881. Efforts by volunteer<br />

firemen to save the building were<br />

unsuccessful due to the lack of water power.<br />

Valuable books, paintings and legal<br />

documents were destroyed.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

thought. The Governor quickly ordered several<br />

Texas Rangers who had been camped on<br />

the Capitol grounds to guard the vault.<br />

The only enemy on this day, however, was<br />

the natural consequence of fuel, oxygen, and<br />

an ignition source.<br />

“It was a thrilling scene,” the next edition<br />

of the Texas Siftings reported. The writer<br />

continued:<br />

The fire demon’s cruel tongues licked<br />

the fair proportions of the historic pile,<br />

while huge volumes of black smoke<br />

poured from the doomed building, and<br />

settled over the fair city… like a sable<br />

funeral pall, enveloping in its somber<br />

folds the spires and domes that glitter<br />

on the several hills of the Capital City<br />

of Texas, while the toot, toot, toot of<br />

the fire engine, and the hoarse profanity<br />

of the enthusiastic volunteer firemen,<br />

seemed a solemn and appropriate<br />

dirge as the old sarcophagus crumbled.<br />

Low water pressure at the nearest hydrant,<br />

which was not all that close due to the fact<br />

that the two previous sessions of the<br />

Legislature had not seen fit to appropriate<br />

money for fire hydrants on the Capitol<br />

grounds, prevented the volunteer firefighters<br />

from putting much more than a light mist on<br />

the blaze. In two hours the building was<br />

nothing but a blackened limestone shell.<br />

“The architectural monstrosity…at the<br />

head of Congress Avenue, is no more,” the<br />

Texas Siftings summarized. “The venerable<br />

edifice that bore such a striking resemblance<br />

to a large size corn crib, with a pumpkin for a<br />

dome… took fire on Wednesday at noon.”<br />

Though newspaper reaction to the loss of<br />

the Capitol varied from near indifference to<br />

open sarcasm, many government records dating<br />

back to the days of the Republic burned<br />

in the fire. Geologic samples and a collection<br />

of cultural artifacts, including shields and<br />

lances seized by Indian-fighting Texas<br />

Rangers—the beginnings of a state museum—also<br />

were destroyed. In addition, 8,000<br />

books were lost.<br />

If the burning of the statehouse was truly<br />

Henry McBride’s fault (he never denied the<br />

dubious honor, but shoddy installation of the<br />

stove pipe also played a role), the fire did not<br />

cost him his job. He stayed on the state payroll<br />

until 1931.<br />

When McBride died at the age of 76 on<br />

April 8, 1936, the Associated Press, which<br />

like the rest of the mainstream media in Jim<br />

Crow days did not normally report the natural<br />

passing of black people, distributed a fourparagraph<br />

story noting the death of the<br />

“negro who indirectly caused construction of<br />

Texas’ massive granite capitol.”<br />

In truth, though McBride may have accidentally<br />

started the fire, state officials already<br />

were planning for a new Capitol, a grand<br />

structure that would be a much more fitting<br />

home for the government of the nation’s<br />

largest state. But the fire did speed up the<br />

process. Since the new Capitol was to be<br />

erected where the old one stood, the fire<br />

might even have saved the state a little money<br />

in wrecking costs.<br />

What would rise from the ashes of the old<br />

statehouse was a world-class building, a<br />

structure nearly as big as the national Capitol<br />

and bigger than the houses of the German<br />

Reichstag or England’s Parliament. The new<br />

Capitol and one other structure that went up<br />

in <strong>Austin</strong> during the 1880s—the Gothic<br />

three-story brick building that was the first<br />

home of the University of Texas—would<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

38


come to define the city and be the cornerstones<br />

of its economy for decades.<br />

The events leading to a new Capitol began<br />

in the fall of 1875 during the Constitutional<br />

Convention. On November 20, 1875, ninety<br />

delegates in convention to draw a new state<br />

charter passed an ordinance setting aside<br />

three million acres “of the public domain” to<br />

fund construction of a new Capitol “and other<br />

necessary public buildings at the seat of government.”<br />

That provision became a part of the<br />

new constitution, a document ratified by the<br />

electorate on February 15, 1876.<br />

By the summer of 1881, the so-called<br />

Capitol Lands in the Texas Panhandle<br />

(3,050,000 acres covering parts of ten counties)<br />

had been surveyed, a building superintendent<br />

and two commissioners had been<br />

appointed, architect Elijah E. Myers had been<br />

hired, and the state was advertising for bids<br />

from building contractors. (The syndicate<br />

that bought the land established a ranch, the<br />

XIT, that for more than two decades was the<br />

largest ranch in the world.)<br />

In an irony not lost on the press of the day,<br />

Governor Roberts had been meeting with the<br />

Capitol Board (made up of, in addition to the<br />

Governor, the comptroller, treasurer, attorney<br />

general, and land commissioner) and discussing<br />

plans for the new Capitol when the<br />

fire broke out.<br />

After more than six years of discussion and<br />

planning, a construction contract for a modernized<br />

Renaissance-style structure similar to<br />

the U.S. Capitol was awarded in January<br />

1882. Ground was broken on February 1 at<br />

the site of the old Capitol at the head of<br />

Congress Avenue. <strong>Austin</strong>ites became used to<br />

rattling window panes as the contractor<br />

began blasting into caliche rock. By 1884,<br />

workers had completed the basement.<br />

The underground walls were of limestone<br />

quarried west of <strong>Austin</strong> near a community<br />

then known as Oatmanville (present-day<br />

Oakhill). Limestone also was intended for use<br />

in the construction of the rest of the building,<br />

but when tests showed the limestone was of<br />

poor quality, prone to develop dark streaks<br />

when exposed to water, the decision was made<br />

to build the Capitol with red Texas granite<br />

from near Marble Falls, in Burnet County.<br />

An estimated 20,000 people came to<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> from across the state for the laying of<br />

the cornerstone on March 2, 1885, the fortyninth<br />

anniversary of Texas’ independence<br />

from Mexico. The massive polished stone,<br />

weighing 12,000 pounds and nearly five feet<br />

wide and long and three feet deep, had been<br />

cut from a granite block weighing 18,000<br />

pounds. It took fifteen oxen to haul it from<br />

the granite quarry in the Hill Country to the<br />

railroad at Burnet, where it was loaded on a<br />

flatcar for the trip to <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

The festivities began with a parade on<br />

Congress Avenue led by a platoon of city<br />

police. The procession represented all facets<br />

of Texas, from the Governor and other state<br />

and city officials to gray-bearded Mexican<br />

War veterans to “Citizens on foot and in carriages,”<br />

as one account noted.<br />

The items placed in the cornerstone for<br />

posterity were as eclectic as the parade that<br />

went up the Avenue: A piece of stone from the<br />

old Capitol, a twenty-five cent meal ticket<br />

dated August 9, 1862, an olive leaf from<br />

Mount Zion, two ears of corn, Confederate<br />

money, Texas newspapers, a March 7, 1785<br />

copy of the Boston Gazette, and a “silk winder<br />

made and presented by Gen. Sam Houston to<br />

Miss Annie E. Kyle,” among many other items.<br />

Two years after the cornerstone ceremony,<br />

metal workers were erecting the Capitol’s<br />

✧<br />

Above: The temporary Capitol was gutted<br />

by flames on September 30, 1899.<br />

Below: While the new Capitol was under<br />

construction, a temporary Capitol at<br />

Congress Avenue and Mesquite (Eleventh)<br />

Street housed the State’s governmental<br />

offices.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

FIVE<br />

39


✧<br />

Above: An inner dome was suspended in a<br />

steel outer dome with the Goddess of Liberty<br />

on top.<br />

Below: From groundbreaking in February<br />

1882 to dedication in May 1888, Capitol<br />

construction required six years. More than a<br />

1,000 men were involved in the project.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

40<br />

double dome. An inner dome was suspended<br />

in a steel outer dome, much like the<br />

Basilica in Rome. Early in 1888, a zinc statue<br />

of the Goddess of Liberty—with exaggerated<br />

features that made her look ugly up<br />

close but lovely from a distance—was lifted<br />

to the top of the dome. The five-point star in<br />

her raised left hand was 309 feet and 9 inches<br />

above ground, roughly equivalent to the<br />

height of a 30-story building. When completed,<br />

the new statehouse was the seventh<br />

largest building in the world. It had taken<br />

11,000 carloads of limestone, 4,000 traincarloads<br />

of granite, 7 miles of lumber (the<br />

wood in most structures is calculated in<br />

board feet), and 85,000 square feet of copper<br />

roofing to build.<br />

In addition to having a monumental landmark<br />

visible for miles in any direction,<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>’s economy benefited from the construction<br />

work. More than 1,000 workers were<br />

involved in the project. Only the one hundred<br />

or so skilled tradesmen made much money by<br />

the standards of the day, but all the workers<br />

had to buy the necessities of life, and on payday,<br />

maybe some of the pleasurable nonessentials<br />

like beer at the nearby Scholz<br />

Garden, an <strong>Austin</strong> institution opened in 1866.<br />

State Senator Temple Houston, Sam<br />

Houston’s only surviving son, delivered the<br />

keynote address at the Capitol dedication on<br />

May 18, 1888.<br />

“The greatest of states commissions me to<br />

say that she accepts this building, and henceforth<br />

it shall be the habitation of her government,”<br />

Houston began. “When the title to the<br />

noblest edifice upon this hemisphere thus<br />

passes from the builder to Texas, reason<br />

ordains a brief reference to the deeds and<br />

times that eventuate in this occasion.”<br />

Houston’s “brief reference” went on for<br />

some 3,200 words. The festivities surrounding<br />

the dedication, which ranged from “sham<br />

battles” put on by the state militia to an elegant<br />

ball in the new statehouse, would go on<br />

for five days.<br />

With proper modesty, Temple Houston did<br />

not mention his father’s name in his long<br />

speech. But neither did he mention Lamar,<br />

his father’s old political rival. It was this man,<br />

however, who in addition to his advocacy of<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> as Texas’ capital was a strong voice<br />

(though not strong enough during his administration)<br />

in pushing for an institution that<br />

would become <strong>Austin</strong>’s other cornerstone.<br />

“[A] cultivated mind is the guardian genius<br />

of democracy, and, while guided and controlled<br />

by virtue, is the noblest attribute of<br />

man,” Lamar had said in his first speech to<br />

the Republic’s Congress in 1838. “It is the<br />

only dictator that freemen acknowledge and<br />

the only security which freemen desire.… Let<br />

me therefore urge it upon you, gentlemen,<br />

not to postpone this matter too long.”<br />

The matter was postponed, however,<br />

for nearly four decades. But when action<br />

finally was taken on Lamar’s eloquent observation<br />

on education, a soliloquy that generations<br />

of Texas students would be required to<br />

memorize, the city of <strong>Austin</strong>, as well as the<br />

free men—and women—of Texas would be<br />

the beneficiary.<br />

The University of Texas, like the new<br />

Capitol, was born of the 1876 Constitution.<br />

But the constitutional provision relating to a<br />

university for the state offered no silver spoon<br />

for the capital city. While Article VII, Section<br />

10 of the charter provided for establishment<br />

of “a University of the first class,” it left the<br />

location of this institution up to “a vote of the<br />

people of this State.” (The first draft of the


Constitution had stipulated that the university<br />

“be located at or near the city of <strong>Austin</strong>.”)<br />

Lawmakers did not take action on the<br />

Constitutional mandate until March 30, 1881<br />

when the Legislature passed the necessary<br />

enabling act. Governor Roberts set the election<br />

to pick a site for Texas’ institution of<br />

higher learning for September 6, 1881.<br />

Two other cities, Tyler and Waco, seriously<br />

vied for the university. Waco boosters paid for<br />

this ad: “Waco is free from the distracting<br />

scenes, corrupting influences and fevered<br />

excitement of a political capital, with its multitudinous<br />

temptations to allure the young<br />

into paths of vice.”<br />

Turnout was low on election day, but the<br />

people of Texas decided that the temptations of<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> were not as multitudinous as the good<br />

people of Waco feared. <strong>Austin</strong> got 30,913<br />

votes, with Tyler coming in second with<br />

18,974 votes. Waco got 9,799 votes. Thorp<br />

Spring, a small community in Hood County,<br />

received 2,930 votes. Galveston was chosen at<br />

the site of the University’s medical branch.<br />

With the electorate having settled the<br />

question of location, Governor Roberts<br />

appointed an eight-member board of regents<br />

(a ruling body later expanded to nine seats)<br />

headed by Dr. Ashbel Smith of Harris County,<br />

the former surgeon general of the Republic of<br />

Texas. The regents, moving much more<br />

quickly with the bricks-and-mortar aspects of<br />

a new university than the Capitol Board had,<br />

selected <strong>Austin</strong> architect Frederick Ernst<br />

Ruffini to design a building.<br />

On a forty-acre site about one mile north<br />

of the Capitol, the cornerstone for the first UT<br />

building—a structure that came to be called<br />

Old Main—was laid on November 17, 1882.<br />

The building would rise on College Hill at the<br />

center of a tract reserved for a university in<br />

the original <strong>Austin</strong> survey of 1839.<br />

“In ignorance lies the great danger, the<br />

chief enemy to the perpetuity of free institutions,<br />

to security for person and property, to<br />

the virtue and aggregate power of a people,”<br />

Smith, a graduate of Yale, said at the cornerstone<br />

laying. Three thousand people turned<br />

out for the event.<br />

With the initial phase of Old Main still<br />

under construction, the University’s first ses-<br />

sion had to be held downtown in the temporary<br />

Capitol. Classes began September 15,<br />

1883. Eight professors handpicked by Smith<br />

from “back East” undertook the education of<br />

more than one hundred students, with final<br />

enrollment that year reaching 221.<br />

The west wing of Old Main was completed<br />

in January 1884, followed by the center section<br />

in 1889. A decade passed before the east<br />

wing was added and the building took on its<br />

final form.<br />

Not all the new construction in town,<br />

however, was funded by the government.<br />

Colonel Jesse Lincoln Driskill, like many<br />

Texans of his day, learned most of what he<br />

knew from cattle. Coming to Texas from<br />

✧<br />

Below: A souvenir card commemorates<br />

the dedication of the Capitol in May 1888.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Bottom: The main building of the University<br />

in South <strong>Austin</strong> was constructed in stages.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

FIVE<br />

41


✧<br />

Top: Jessie Lincoln Driskill, wealthy<br />

cattleman and honorary Confederate<br />

colonel, built an ornate four-story hotel<br />

on Brazos Street between Sixth and<br />

Seventh streets.<br />

Above: Ben Thompson, a gunman, gambler,<br />

and something of a dandy, was city marshal<br />

from 1880 to 1882.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

42<br />

Missouri, he settled in Bastrop in 1849. He<br />

sold beef to the Confederacy, earning the honorary<br />

title of “Colonel,” but he made his fortune<br />

trailing Texas cattle north to the railheads<br />

in Kansas. In 1870, he moved to <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Fourteen years later, Driskill decided<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> needed a first-class hotel and he was<br />

the man to build it. He paid $49,000 to buy<br />

up all but one lot of the half-block west of<br />

Brazos Street between Sixth and Seventh<br />

streets and would sink $400,000—including<br />

the cost of furnishings—into the hotel that<br />

went up on the site. His notion was to build<br />

“the finest hotel south of St. Louis.”<br />

By the time the cornerstone was laid,<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>ites were getting pretty good at celebrating<br />

new construction projects in their<br />

city. More than 4,000 people listened to<br />

speeches and witnessed the placing of the<br />

stone, a gift to Colonel Driskill from the<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> business community. Those who had<br />

tickets then went to the Pearl House, where<br />

they found the tables laden with food and<br />

bottles of Mum’s extra dry. A lengthy round of<br />

toasts followed.<br />

“The Driskill Hotel,” began one. “The energy<br />

and enterprise of its projector, the artistic<br />

skill of its architect exhibited in the beauty<br />

and symmetry of its design, and the appropriateness<br />

of its appointments, give assurance of<br />

a hostelry for <strong>Austin</strong> unsurpassed by any in<br />

the State. May its cuisine always be as satisfactory<br />

as its external attraction.”<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> architect Jasper N. Preston, who<br />

had resigned an appointment as superintendent<br />

of the Capitol project prior to the beginning<br />

of construction, designed the ornate<br />

four-story Romanesque brick and limestone<br />

structure. Just to make sure folks knew it was<br />

his hotel, Driskill had a carved bust of himself<br />

put on a pedestal attached to the peaked<br />

gable on the Sixth Street side of the building.<br />

For good measure, the colonel had busts of<br />

his two sons installed on the other two gables.<br />

The opening of the hotel on December 20,<br />

1886 was the occasion of an even grander celebration<br />

than the cornerstone laying. The<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Statesman published a special edition<br />

to mark the occasion.<br />

Though the cornerstones laid in <strong>Austin</strong> in<br />

the 1880s were the metaphorical cornerstones<br />

of the city’s economy as well, the<br />

Legislature came to town only every two years<br />

and the University of Texas was hardly a<br />

Southern Harvard. The Driskill’s rooms were<br />

not always filled. In fact, the hotel experienced<br />

financial difficulties and closed for several<br />

months in May 1887, reopening under<br />

new management. Three years after Colonel<br />

Driskill’s death in 1890, his brother-in-law<br />

sold the hotel on behalf of the estate.<br />

The Driskill’s difficulties were reflective of<br />

the city’s flat economy. Despite the new<br />

Capitol and new university, <strong>Austin</strong> was in an<br />

economic skid. Not only did it stop growing,<br />

it lost population. In a half century, <strong>Austin</strong><br />

had grown from a village of less than 1,000<br />

people in 1840 to a city of fewer than 15,000.<br />

By comparison, cities like Dallas and Fort<br />

Worth were booming.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>’s problems were aggravated by one<br />

of the worst droughts in Texas history, which<br />

was drying out the state. Cattlemen called<br />

1887, which came on the heels of one of the<br />

harshest winters in Texas history, the year of<br />

the Big Dry-up. Businesses, as well as thousands<br />

of cattle, went to their knees. Some did<br />

not get back up.<br />

As the drought wore on, the Colorado at<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> ran low and slow. Still, the river figured<br />

prominently in a developing line of<br />

thinking about the city’s future.


THE GREAT DAM<br />

New Year’s Day traditionally is a time to express optimism for the future, even if most of the resolutions<br />

made are destined not to last much longer than the hangovers that inspired them. But a<br />

lengthy essay in the <strong>Austin</strong> Daily Statesman for January 1, 1888 made it seem as if <strong>Austin</strong>, despite<br />

its permanent status as the seat of state government and the home of the state university, had<br />

missed the party altogether.<br />

Written by Yale-educated Alexander Penn Wooldridge, the man who had spearheaded <strong>Austin</strong>’s<br />

campaign to get voter approval on the University of Texas location issue, the essay pointed out<br />

that <strong>Austin</strong> was not a wealthy community. In fact, he said, “Our community is becoming poorer<br />

every day.” Worse yet, he continued, the residents of an “overdone and rather poor capital<br />

city…situated in the midst of a limited and unreliable agricultural region” appeared to be indifferent<br />

to the problem.<br />

What <strong>Austin</strong> needed, Wooldridge wrote, was industry. But industry, like Texas’ rain-starved<br />

croplands, needed water. The Colorado was not enough, at least not during times of normal flow.<br />

The river’s water could, however, be detained in its journey to the Gulf of Mexico. Wooldridge’s<br />

answer to the problem would touch off one of <strong>Austin</strong>’s first big internal political fights, a tradition<br />

that would endure well beyond the 1880s. His proposal was to build a dam across one of the most<br />

notoriously flood-prone rivers in Texas.<br />

✧<br />

Frequent devastating floods along the<br />

Colorado River made it necessary to<br />

construct some means of control.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>’s leading men argued in favor<br />

of a dam. Excavation of the site began in<br />

November 1890. The final block of granite<br />

was set in place on May 2, 1893.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

SIX<br />

43


✧<br />

Above: Alexander Penn Wooldridge deserves<br />

credit for his foresight of <strong>Austin</strong>’s need for<br />

a dam across the Colorado River. He also<br />

organized the <strong>Austin</strong> public school system<br />

in 1880.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

This was not the first time someone had<br />

suggested damming the Colorado. <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Mayor John W. Glenn broached the idea in<br />

1871, as had former Land Commissioner and<br />

local businessman William C. Walsh in 1887,<br />

but Wooldridge was offering the best constructed<br />

argument in behalf of the idea. In<br />

addition to a dam above the city, Wooldridge<br />

endorsed the notion (again, one proposed<br />

earlier) of a canal from the lake that would be<br />

formed by the dam to allow water flow to<br />

near the source of Shoal Creek, north of the<br />

city. He envisioned factories springing up<br />

along the creek like so many rain lilies. Once<br />

used to provide power for these factories, the<br />

water coursing down Shoal Creek would<br />

return to the river, where it could be used<br />

below <strong>Austin</strong> for farm irrigation.<br />

Many “objections,” which Wooldridge<br />

seemed to use as a synonym for obstacle, had<br />

to be overcome. That would be easy, he went<br />

on, but for “the great indifference and lack of<br />

enterprise of our people.”<br />

“To the weak and timid all things are truly<br />

impossible, and to them there is always a lion<br />

in the way; but I venture to believe that this<br />

lion must be scared off from the path if this<br />

town ever desires to advance itself to success<br />

and prosperity.”<br />

Wooldridge’s proposal, delivered orally to<br />

the Board of Trade a few days after its publication,<br />

generated moderate interest. But any real<br />

civic enthusiasm for the idea soon was washed<br />

away by drought-busting spring rains.<br />

With the Board of Trade—the forerunner<br />

of the <strong>Austin</strong> Chamber of Commerce—and<br />

the Statesman solidly behind him, Wooldridge<br />

continued his advocacy of a dam across the<br />

Colorado. His thinking on how such a structure<br />

could be paid for evolved from depending<br />

on private enterprise to the concept of the<br />

city itself raising capital through the sale of<br />

bonds. When the dam was completed, the<br />

city would go into the utility business, paying<br />

off the bonds with profit from the sale of<br />

water and electricity.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

44


Naturally, the privately-owned <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Water, Light and Power Company opposed<br />

the idea. So did <strong>Austin</strong>’s mayor, Joseph Nalle,<br />

who also happened to be president of the<br />

power company. Wooldridge’s idea was pie in<br />

the sky, Nalle believed. <strong>Austin</strong>’s government<br />

should stick to the fundamentals. With no<br />

support from City Hall, the pro-dam element<br />

decided to run a candidate against Nalle in<br />

the upcoming election.<br />

Water, in a way, is what had brought Nalle to<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>. The Virginia-born Nalle, a Confederate<br />

veteran, came to Texas’ capital city in 1869 after<br />

a flood in Helena, Arkansas wiped out his business.<br />

He worked a short time as a bookkeeper<br />

for a lumber yard, then went into business for<br />

himself again, opening a lumber yard he called<br />

Nalle and Company. Less than a decade after<br />

arriving in <strong>Austin</strong>, Nalle was elected to the city<br />

board of aldermen.<br />

In the spring of 1878, Nalle got into a<br />

heated argument with another alderman, T. J.<br />

Markley, in the office of the Daily Statesman.<br />

The issue was whether the city should build a<br />

market house. Markley accused Nalle of<br />

cooking up a deal, in concert with the mayor,<br />

that would personally profit him to the extent<br />

of $10,000. Nalle hurled an ink stand and<br />

then a large pair of scissors at Markley.<br />

Statesman editor John Cardwell, a big man,<br />

pulled the two men apart, and both men were<br />

escorted from the newspaper office—in different<br />

directions.<br />

A couple of hours later, Nalle and Markley<br />

met again outside the Palace Saloon on<br />

Congress Avenue. After a brief scuffle,<br />

Markley staggered into the saloon and collapsed<br />

with two knife wounds in his heart.<br />

Nalle, still holding a bloody Bowie knife in<br />

his hand, walked up the Avenue and surrendered<br />

to the city marshal. Nalle was charged<br />

with murder but spent only one night in jail<br />

before posting bond.<br />

Two years later, in a trial moved to<br />

Georgetown on a change of venue motion, a<br />

jury heard the evidence. Nalle’s lawyer argued<br />

that Nalle had acted in self-defense, Markley<br />

having outweighed the 119-pound accused<br />

by forty-three pounds. The jury voted for<br />

acquittal and Nalle was a free man.<br />

In 1887, <strong>Austin</strong> voters had no qualms<br />

about promoting to the office of mayor an<br />

alderman who had proven himself handy<br />

with a knife. Up for re-election in 1889, Nalle<br />

soon found himself in another fight. This<br />

time, the only weapons either party resorted<br />

to were sharp words.<br />

Nalle’s opponent was building contractor<br />

John McDonald, a “dam man.” Born in New<br />

York State in 1834, McDonald grew up in<br />

Ohio. He managed to stay out of the military<br />

during the Civil War, though, like Abraham<br />

✧<br />

Top, right: John McDonald, mayor of <strong>Austin</strong><br />

from 1889 to 1895, was pro-dam. Lake<br />

McDonald (later Lake <strong>Austin</strong>) was named<br />

for him.<br />

Bottom, right: Hydroelectric power from the<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> dam served the city and the public<br />

and kept the street cars running most of the<br />

time.<br />

Opposite, bottom: Based on Augustus Koch’s<br />

second map of <strong>Austin</strong>, 1887, this “Partial<br />

View of <strong>Austin</strong>, Texas,” put out by the<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Rapid Transit Railway Co. and the<br />

Board of Trade, hails the city as “The most<br />

beautiful and wealthiest city of its size in the<br />

United States” and predicts it will be “The<br />

Coming Great Manufacturing Center of the<br />

South.” Note the Capitol, University of<br />

Texas, Hyde Park subdivision, and wide<br />

new East Avenue.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

SIX<br />

45


✧<br />

Above, left: An artist’s sketch in about 1889<br />

provides an idealized view of City Dam with<br />

electric streetcars, and Lake <strong>Austin</strong> with docks,<br />

sailboats, and steamers.<br />

Above, right: The musical “H.M.S. Pinafore” was<br />

put on in 1893 during the dedication ceremonies<br />

of Lake McDonald. The boat in the foreground<br />

served as the stage while the Ben Hur—a<br />

sidewheel steamboat—was one of the wings.<br />

Below: Looking across the dam from the hills<br />

west of <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

46<br />

Lincoln, he was a Republican. Also like<br />

Lincoln, McDonald was over six feet tall.<br />

Coming to Paris, Texas in 1874, he settled in<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> a year later. A master machinist, he<br />

soon built a successful business.<br />

McDonald was swept into the mayor’s<br />

office on a tidal wave of pro-dam boosterism.<br />

That he was a Republican running in a<br />

Democratic town in a Democratic state made<br />

no difference to <strong>Austin</strong>’s electorate. He<br />

received three-fifths of the vote and proponents<br />

of the dam took eight of the ten aldermen<br />

seats.<br />

Taking office on December 7, 1889,<br />

McDonald and the pro-dam aldermen moved<br />

quickly. Boston civil engineer Joseph P. Frizell<br />

was retained to put together a plan for the<br />

dam. Appearing before a standing room only<br />

crowd at Millett’s Opera House on March 26,<br />

1890, Frizell reported his plan to the city<br />

council and citizens of <strong>Austin</strong>. The council<br />

approved the plan, created a public works<br />

board to supervise construction of the dam,<br />

and set a bond election for May 5.<br />

On election day, 1,354 voters approved the<br />

issuance of $1.4 million in bonds by a city<br />

government with annual revenues of<br />

$100,000. Only fifty people voted against the<br />

bond issue.<br />

By October a Kansas City construction<br />

contractor had been hired. Excavation at the<br />

site selected for the dam, a tract three-andhalf<br />

miles above Congress Avenue donated by<br />

George W. Brackenridge, began on November<br />

5, 1890. The project, undertaken with a combination<br />

of old and new technology—men<br />

with picks and chisels, mule-drawn graders,<br />

and state-of-the-art steam-powered equipment—was<br />

not an easy one. As had been the<br />

case during the building of the Capitol, a rail<br />

line had to be laid to the site to provide for<br />

delivery of the necessary granite and other<br />

construction materials. Rises in the river<br />

caused delays. Finally, the last stone in the<br />

dam was laid on May 2, 1893.<br />

Even with the dam finished, Nalle continued<br />

to fight against it, challenging in court<br />

the legality of the bonds. On May 25, the<br />

Texas Supreme Court ruled in the city’s<br />

behalf, ending Nalle’s hopes of blocking the<br />

project with an attack on its funding.<br />

The dam was 1150 feet long and 60 feet<br />

high. Built of limestone rubble and concrete


with a granite block exterior, it was 66 feet<br />

wide at its base, 16 feet wide at its top. Twelve<br />

days after the dam’s completion, water was<br />

flowing over its crest and the lake was full.<br />

Finishing the powerhouse would take<br />

another two years, but the massive structure,<br />

at the time the largest overflow dam ever built<br />

on a previously untamed river, also created<br />

the largest man-made lake in the world.<br />

Named in honor of the mayor who had seen<br />

the project through, Lake McDonald<br />

stretched nearly thirty miles upriver.<br />

Late in 1894, Mayor McDonald submitted<br />

his annual report to the city council.<br />

“Notwithstanding the general business<br />

depression that has prevailed throughout the<br />

country our city has been prosperous,” he<br />

wrote. “Business has greatly improved and<br />

many new business houses and homes have<br />

been built.”<br />

That was saying a lot. In the summer of<br />

1893, the price of silver had dropped to seventy-seven<br />

cents an ounce and the stock market<br />

declined to the point of virtual collapse.<br />

The nation fell into what would be a four-year<br />

economic depression.<br />

No matter the national situation, the<br />

mayor predicted that when the city began<br />

selling electrical power “the bonded debt and<br />

taxation will be yearly reduced until we will<br />

be a city almost without taxation.”<br />

While work still was under way on the<br />

powerhouse, where water held back by the<br />

dam would generate electricity as it poured<br />

through four turbines, a lake built by a<br />

city to stimulate industrial development<br />

had also created a beautiful recreational<br />

area. <strong>Austin</strong>ites and people from across<br />

the state and nation took to the lake in<br />

everything from homemade wooden rowboats<br />

to the Ben Hur, a three-deck, two-funnel<br />

steam-powered sidewheeler built on the<br />

bank of the Colorado while the dam was<br />

under construction.<br />

An association launched an international<br />

regatta with a $5,000 purse that attracted<br />

oarsmen from around the world. The world<br />

champion sculler came to <strong>Austin</strong> from<br />

Australia to race on Lake McDonald.<br />

As a poet rhapsodized in the Daily<br />

Statesman in 1895:<br />

The great regatta now is o’er<br />

The final races run.<br />

Old England proved the champions<br />

And our good money won.<br />

The strangers came into our town<br />

To see the <strong>Austin</strong> dam.<br />

But now the great event is o’er,<br />

The strangers have gone home.<br />

Some to other Texas towns,<br />

Some to far England’s shores.<br />

They will tell the story of our town,<br />

Our dam, and our buildings, too.<br />

They’ll tell of our lovely homes,<br />

And [the] Colorado’s wondrous views.<br />

✧<br />

Below: At one time Jacob Stern operated<br />

G. T. Rabb’s grist mill on Barton Springs.<br />

Stern started a grain company.<br />

Bottom: Rabb built and operated his grist<br />

mill on Barton Springs in 1871. The spring<br />

and dam furnished power for the first ice<br />

manufactured in <strong>Austin</strong>. Rabb sent to<br />

France for the ice making machine.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

SIX<br />

47


✧<br />

Above: Wooded Mount Bonnell provided a<br />

spectacular view of the Colorado River.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Above, right: The Colorado River rarely<br />

froze solidly enough to permit ice skaters,<br />

but it did in 1899.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Below, left: <strong>Austin</strong>ites were justifiably proud<br />

of their artificial moonlight towers.<br />

Below, right: An old but undated photo<br />

shows the San Jacinto steamboat, one of<br />

several cruising on Lake McDonald.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

The more prosaic benefits of the dam<br />

became available in the spring of 1895.<br />

Turbine-powered pumps began drawing<br />

water from the lake and pushing it into the<br />

city’s mains at noon on March 7. Hydraulic<br />

electrical generation began on May 6, the first<br />

voltage illuminating lights atop 30 tall metal<br />

towers across the city. Erected by the Fort<br />

Wayne Electric Company in 1894 at a cost of<br />

$1,500 each, the towers were of varying<br />

height, depending on the terrain. The lights<br />

were on the same plane, bright enough for<br />

someone to read a pocket watch up to 1,500<br />

feet from a tower, but not so intense as to<br />

interfere with chickens laying their eggs, as<br />

some <strong>Austin</strong>ites had feared. Like the dam that<br />

provided the power for their lights, the towers<br />

were unique in the nation. (Contrary to<br />

myth, the towers were not arranged in the<br />

shape of a Texas-sized star, and there were an<br />

even 30 of them, not 31 as is often written.)<br />

Electricity for <strong>Austin</strong> homes and businesses<br />

was available from the city on July 4.<br />

At night, the towers powered by the<br />

city-owned generators in the brick building<br />

adjacent to the dam bathed a Victorian city<br />

of some 26,000 residents in artificial moonlight.<br />

Meanwhile, the dam and the lake it<br />

created cast a glow of prosperity on <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Surely, city fathers and business leaders<br />

believed, great things figuratively loomed<br />

just upstream.<br />

“Central Texas is now entering a new<br />

industrial era,” engineer J. T. Fanning report-<br />

ed. Fanning had been hired to come to <strong>Austin</strong><br />

and mediate a difference in opinion among<br />

engineers on the location of the powerhouse<br />

and the most effective way to use the water<br />

power created by the dam. “If the citizens of<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> follow this beginning with wise investments<br />

and encouragements of judicious manufacturing<br />

enterprises,” Fanning continued,<br />

“there can be no doubt as to the great advantages<br />

that will accrue to the city.”<br />

In <strong>Austin</strong>, the decade lived up to its subsequent<br />

nickname, the Gay Nineties.<br />

One of the men who shaped the city in the<br />

1890s was Monroe Martin Shipe, who came<br />

to the capital in 1889 from Abilene, Kansas.<br />

With only $850, he secured a franchise from<br />

the city to build an electric streetcar line from<br />

downtown to a 206.5-acre tract of land north<br />

of town that he had purchased as president of<br />

the Missouri, Kansas and Texas Land and<br />

Town Company. The property—which<br />

included an old grandstand, a three-story<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

48


ing pointed out that payments of<br />

$1.50 to $2 a month amounted to<br />

only “a five cent glass of beer a day.”<br />

If paid off in a year, the balance on<br />

a lot was interest free.<br />

“Everything is bustling at Hyde<br />

Park,” the Statesman reported on<br />

September 11, 1892. “Four gangs of<br />

carpenters are busy.”<br />

One of the people buying property<br />

in the new subdivision was<br />

German-born sculptress Elisabet<br />

Ney and her husband, Dr. Edmund<br />

✧<br />

Top, left: The Texas National Guard held<br />

annual summer encampments at Hyde Park<br />

Camp on the grounds of the Asylum (State<br />

Hospital).<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

gazebo and horse racing track on a site that<br />

from 1875 to 1886 had been the first home of<br />

the State Fair of Texas—would be <strong>Austin</strong>’s<br />

first planned subdivision, Hyde Park.<br />

Shipe’s first trolley clanged to the end<br />

of the line in Hyde Park at 4 p.m. on February<br />

26, 1891. Soon he began laying out five miles<br />

of streets and lining them with double rows<br />

of hackberry trees. In 1892, at 3816 Avenue<br />

G, near the intersection of two of the streets<br />

he graded, Shipe built a two-story house<br />

using lumber from the old grandstand on<br />

the fairgrounds.<br />

Touting the availability of city utilities and<br />

gas, fire hydrants, mail delivery, rapid transportation,<br />

and the city’s first moonlight tower<br />

(at 41st and Speedway), Shipe sold lots ranging<br />

in price from $100 to $200. His advertis-<br />

Above: In the exclusive new Hyde Park<br />

subdivision, a well-dressed Victorian woman<br />

feeds a young whitetail buck in the enclosed<br />

private park near Crystal Springs and<br />

Gem Lake.<br />

Left: Before the city took over the function,<br />

volunteers provided fire protection using<br />

horse-drawn equipment. Posing here is the<br />

Protection Hose Company, No. 1.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

SIX<br />

49


✧<br />

Above: Hyde Park, <strong>Austin</strong>’s first planned<br />

suburban neighborhood, offered electric<br />

streetcar service, utilities, a racetrack, a<br />

park and pavilion, and a private lake.<br />

Below: Crawford’s Hyde Park Grocery Store<br />

stood at the corner of what would become<br />

Guadalupe and 41st streets.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER<br />

Montgomery. Sponsored by former Governor<br />

Roberts, Ney had won a commission to carve<br />

marble statues of Stephen <strong>Austin</strong> and Sam<br />

Houston for exhibition at the 1893<br />

Columbian Exposition in Chicago. The<br />

eccentric artist left her husband in charge of<br />

Liendo, their plantation near Hempstead, and<br />

came to <strong>Austin</strong>. She camped in a tent on her<br />

Hyde Park property until workers completed<br />

her masonry studio-house, which she named<br />

Formosa. The structure, with a large north<br />

window to provide natural lighting for her<br />

studio, was the first building erected in Texas<br />

Top, right: Bohn Brothers, a dry goods store at 517-519 Congress Avenue, opened in 1887. A photograph dated<br />

December 9, 1912 shows the interior.<br />

Middle, right: Labor Day in <strong>Austin</strong> in 1910 called for celebration, parades, and picnics. The Bohn Department Store<br />

entry featured three of the Bohn daughters posed atop an elaborate, horse-drawn float<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

specifically designed for artistic purposes. In<br />

1902, Ney added a second story to the building,<br />

giving it a castle-like appearance.<br />

In addition to the one- and two-story<br />

Victorian houses sprouting up across the subdivision,<br />

an 800-seat wooden pavilion went<br />

up in the southwestern quadrant of the development.<br />

Shipe also oversaw excavation for a<br />

small lake suitable for rowing. Until Lake<br />

McDonald filled, the pavilion and its adjacent<br />

lake was the prime recreation location in the<br />

city. From balloon ascensions to summer theater<br />

to dances, Hyde Park offered, as one of<br />

Shipe’s advertisements put it, “entertainments<br />

of a high grade…at a trifling cost.”<br />

The notion of low-cost entertainment<br />

particularly appealed to William Sydney<br />

Porter, who had come to the capital city in<br />

1884. A young man with a taste for good<br />

stories and cold beer, he held a couple of<br />

jobs before going to work at the General<br />

Land Office as a draftsman in 1887. Later<br />

that year, he was married to Athol Estes, a<br />

young woman he had met at a dance celebrating<br />

the laying of the Capitol cornerstone.<br />

Following the election of a new land<br />

commissioner, Porter left the state payroll<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

50


and went to work as a teller at First National<br />

Bank. On the side, he published a weekly<br />

humor sheet, The Rolling Stone.<br />

As writer and editor of his own publication,<br />

he poked fun at <strong>Austin</strong>, a city with “one<br />

soap factory, one electric light works, one<br />

cemetery, one dam, one race track, two beer<br />

gardens, one capitol, two city councils, one<br />

cocaine factory, and [which] will probably<br />

some day have a newspaper.”<br />

Porter left the bank in December 1894. A<br />

short time later, a federal bank examiner<br />

turned up a shortage in Porter’s accounts.<br />

The Rolling Stone, meanwhile, gathered no<br />

moss and very little money. Porter put out his<br />

last issue in April 1895 and six months later<br />

moved to Houston, where he began writing<br />

for the Houston Post. After being indicted in<br />

federal district court on four counts of<br />

embezzlement, Porter left Houston, ostensibly<br />

to face his legal problems in <strong>Austin</strong>. He<br />

went instead to Honduras, via New Orleans.<br />

Returning to <strong>Austin</strong> in 1897 after learning<br />

his wife was gravely ill with tuberculosis (she<br />

died on July 25), he stood trial in February<br />

1898 and was convicted. He served thirtynine<br />

months of a five-year sentence in<br />

the state penitentiary in Columbus, Ohio,<br />

which had a contract to house federal prisoners.<br />

Though he never returned to <strong>Austin</strong> after<br />

leaving prison, Porter became a successful<br />

short story writer, under the pen name of O.<br />

Henry, until his death in New York in 1910.<br />

Many of his stories, still in print in numerous<br />

anthologies, were set in Texas, some of them<br />

in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Before he married, Porter served for a time<br />

in the <strong>Austin</strong> Greys, a local militia company.<br />

When it disbanded in 1885, the Texas Rifles<br />

took over its equipment. The company was a<br />

unit of the Texas Volunteer Guard, forerunner<br />

of the Texas National Guard. Porter traveled<br />

with the unit to Lampasas for training and on<br />

another occasion to Fort Worth to guard the<br />

train station during a rail strike. While <strong>Austin</strong><br />

was the headquarters for the state guard,<br />

which was under the Adjutant General’s<br />

Department, the location of the annual summer<br />

training encampment for all guard units<br />

varied from place to place across the state.<br />

In 1891, the encampment was held at the<br />

✧<br />

Top: Headquarters building, Camp Mabry.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Left: The Avenue Hotel opened in 1860<br />

and offered rooms for $2. The gallery of<br />

photographer H. B Hillyer was across<br />

the street.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

SIX<br />

51


✧<br />

Above: The first streetcar across the newly<br />

completed Congress Avenue bridge (January<br />

10 or 11, 1911) was a cause of civic pride.<br />

Middle: The State Cemetery, established<br />

before the Civil War, is the final resting<br />

place of many Texas pioneers.<br />

Below: Picnic in 1899 at the site of<br />

Chamber's Mill on the Colorado River,<br />

about where the present-day bridge on<br />

Pleasant Valley Road stands.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

old fairgrounds north of town on the property<br />

soon to be developed as Hyde Park. That<br />

gave local boosters an idea. A “public minded<br />

and patriotic committee of citizens” (as an<br />

Adjutant General’s report later put it) found a<br />

site overlooking the Colorado three miles<br />

northwest of the Capitol that could become a<br />

permanent home for the summer training<br />

encampment. Prominent businessmen helped<br />

underwrite the purchase of 90 acres and then<br />

deeded the land to the state. Improvements<br />

were soon made and by 1892, the camp was<br />

ready to receive the state’s citizen-soldiers.<br />

Following the 1893 summer encampment,<br />

which featured so-called sham battles open to<br />

the public, the Statesman pronounced the<br />

annual training a success. “The military conducted<br />

themselves well during the encampment<br />

and their gentlemanly and soldierly<br />

conduct has been most highly commended,”<br />

the newspaper said. “The week was one of<br />

profit and pleasure and the gallant boys went<br />

home well satisfied.”<br />

Over the next several years, the campground<br />

was expanded by purchasing additional<br />

land with funds raised in a unique way:<br />

By charging admission to the noisy, smoky<br />

summer sham battles. When Adjutant<br />

General W. H. Mabry died of malaria in Cuba<br />

four months after the Spanish-American War,<br />

the training camp outside <strong>Austin</strong> was named<br />

in his honor.<br />

With the American victory over Spain, the<br />

century was winding down with a new sense of<br />

national optimism. In <strong>Austin</strong>, business leaders<br />

thought the city’s prosperity was assured by its<br />

seven-year-old dam. But it was not generating as<br />

much electricity as expected. Sometimes, when<br />

the water was low, it generated none at all. As a<br />

consequence, sufficient revenue was not available<br />

to handle payments on the city’s bonded<br />

indebtedness. Taxpayers were having to make<br />

up the difference, even though their artificial<br />

moonlight towers, just like the real moon, were<br />

dark for extended periods and their electric<br />

streetcars had to be retrofitted for mule power.<br />

The last and most spectacular forewarning<br />

of disaster was a five-inch rain and brilliant<br />

lighting display the night of April 6, 1900. By<br />

that point, nothing could have been done to<br />

avert that disaster short of draining the lake and<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

52


undertaking a virtual reconstruction. The problem<br />

with the dam was as fundamental as the<br />

baserock the engineers thought their structure<br />

rested on: Water slowly was undermining portions<br />

of it, something an extended concrete<br />

apron could have prevented, and it should have<br />

been built with floodgates. On top of that, by<br />

the end of its life, the depth of the lake had<br />

been cut in half by sediment. All it would take<br />

to take sweep away the dam was a full lake and<br />

a lot of rain. Still, though the dam had been<br />

doomed since the day the last granite block was<br />

laid in place, what happened the day after the<br />

rain came as a surprise to the people of <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

The sky was blue on Saturday morning,<br />

April 7, but the foamy water flowing down<br />

the Colorado was the color of chocolate<br />

milk and rising three feet an hour. By 10 a.m.,<br />

the dam was ten feet under water. A large<br />

crowd had come out to the dam to watch the<br />

raging water, but none expected what happened<br />

at 11:20 a.m.<br />

“Suddenly and without warning,” that<br />

day’s newspaper later reported, “a break<br />

occurred near the center of the dam and a<br />

stretch of the masonry work about 500 feet<br />

long swung around to the left.<br />

“The great bank [repository] of water, Lake<br />

McDonald…instantly leaped into this wide<br />

opening and with a roar that was heard for<br />

several miles the flood tore down into the valley<br />

below.”<br />

✧<br />

Top, left and right, and below: Floods were<br />

a serious problem in <strong>Austin</strong> before the<br />

damming of the Colorado River.<br />

Bottom, left: Seiders’ Spring, settled in the<br />

1850s by Edwin Seiders, quickly became a<br />

popular recreational area. It was located<br />

between present-day 34th and 38th streets.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

53


✧<br />

Above: The <strong>Austin</strong> dam broke near noon<br />

on April 7, 1900. Flood waters crushed<br />

a quarter of the dam, swept away the<br />

City Power Plant, and rushed south.<br />

Right: Barton Springs in its limestone bed<br />

was the site of early Indian camps and<br />

possibly a Spanish mission before white<br />

settlers came to the area. To the left is a<br />

mill. Note the split-rail fence and horse and<br />

buggy in the background.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

54<br />

SIX


Within twenty minutes, the Colorado<br />

River was running one mile wide and sixty<br />

feet deep just below downtown <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Eight persons drowned inside the power<br />

house as the surging water inundated it. One<br />

other person was swept away when the flood<br />

crest hit <strong>Austin</strong>. Counting victims drowned<br />

as the torrent continued down the river to<br />

the Gulf of Mexico, the flood killed fortyseven<br />

people.<br />

“Well I suppose you have done heard of the<br />

great calamity that has befell <strong>Austin</strong>,” Mrs.<br />

Mary Gordon wrote her uncle on April 11, four<br />

days later. “The city is now without power,<br />

lights and water…. The river was higher than<br />

it had ever bin befour the great wave came that<br />

washed away the dam. It was an awful sight. A<br />

good many people were drowned and several<br />

houses were washed away…. I never want to<br />

experience another such a time.”<br />

As word spread that the dam had given<br />

way, she continued, “couriers were sent all<br />

over the low flats of the city for the people all<br />

to flee for their lives to the hills. You never<br />

saw such a stampede—men, women and children<br />

all going as fast as they could and crying<br />

and praying.”<br />

The Gordon family, which lived at 1401<br />

Willow in the lower part of the city then<br />

called the flats, “dropped everything and flew<br />

with the crowd.”<br />

Safely on higher ground, Mrs. Gordon<br />

“saw three houses go down the river…. As<br />

good luck would have it the water did not<br />

quite reach us and our things are all right….<br />

I can’t begin to tell you in a letter what an<br />

awful time was hear, but you can maby think<br />

how it was. It was a repitition [sic] of the<br />

Johnstown [Ohio] Flood.”<br />

When word reached the University of<br />

Texas campus that the dam had broken, a<br />

young man named Roy Bedichek, like most of<br />

the other students, soon was on his way to see<br />

what was left of the dam.<br />

“A huge section of the granite dam had<br />

been lifted from its center as if by the hand of<br />

a giant and deposited whole a hundred yards<br />

downstream,” Bedichek later recalled. “There,<br />

standing erect, it remained for many, many<br />

years as if the genius of the flood had left it as<br />

a memorial and as a warning—a warning<br />

which man with his usual and usually disastrous<br />

contempt for nature failed to heed.”<br />

In addition to the loss of life and property,<br />

the destruction of the dam was a fiscal catastrophe<br />

for <strong>Austin</strong>. The city’s assessed tax valuation<br />

dropped by twenty-five percent, from $12 million<br />

in 1900 to $9 million the following year.<br />

Despite this, the city still owed nearly a million<br />

dollars for something it no longer had.<br />

As Walter Long later wrote, “<strong>Austin</strong> went<br />

back to mule street cars and kerosene lamps.<br />

The Era of Frustration set in.”<br />

✧<br />

Top: Ice man holds a block of ice with tongs<br />

outside the office at 207 Colorado. The ice<br />

company’s capacity was 125 tons a day.<br />

Above: The main plant of the Lone Star Ice<br />

and Coal Company, established in 1885.<br />

Photo shows horse- or mule-drawn wagon<br />

and cart. On the far left is the Colorado<br />

Machine Shop.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

SIX<br />

55


✧<br />

Above: St. Edward's University, on a hill in South <strong>Austin</strong> with a view of the city, began in 1872.<br />

Below, right: Dressed in the latest fashions of the turn of the century, a couple seated under shady old pecan trees enjoys the flowing waters of Barton Springs.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Below, left: Located on West Sixth Street, this limestone building served as <strong>Austin</strong>’s main post office for decades.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

56


THE ERA OF FRUSTRATION<br />

“There he comes!” someone yelled. “There he comes!” All eyes looked to the north. “Oh, that’s<br />

just a buzzard!” someone else answered.<br />

An estimated 3,000 people gathered north of <strong>Austin</strong> on October 20, 1911 in an open field near<br />

what would become the intersection of 45th and Duval Streets, straining to catch the first glimpse<br />

of the Vin Fiz.<br />

Finally, a sharp-eyed spectator spotted something in the sky that did not have feathers. Only<br />

forty years before, well within the memory of many <strong>Austin</strong>ites, the first train rolled into <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Now the first airplane ever to visit the city was approaching.<br />

Named in honor of a new grape soda being promoted by meat packer J. Ogden Armour, the<br />

“aeroplane” was piloted by young Calbraith Perry “Cal” Rodgers. With financial backing from<br />

Armour, Rodgers hoped to be the first person to fly from coast to coast within thirty days. If he<br />

made it to Pasadena, California in time, he would collect a $50,000 prize from newspaper publisher<br />

William Randolph Hearst.<br />

In consideration of $150 offered by <strong>Austin</strong> land developer Will Caswell, Rodgers had agreed to<br />

land at the capital city on property north of town that Caswell had subdivided and named<br />

Ridgetop. Lots were $50 each and could be bought for $1 down and $1 a week.<br />

The pioneer aviator’s last stop had been Waco. Flying at 70 miles an hour at 500 feet, he<br />

made it to <strong>Austin</strong> in one hour and forty-five minutes. The crowd broke into a cheer when<br />

✧<br />

The Vin Fiz, piloted by “Cal” Rogers,<br />

was the first plane to land at <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

SEVEN<br />

57


Rodgers stepped out of the bi-plane after a<br />

bumpy landing.<br />

“He got out of the thing and he had a big<br />

old duster with a cap and a pair of goggles,”<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>ite Charles Tew recalled years later. “A<br />

scarf was tied over the top of his hat and<br />

under his chin.”<br />

The aviator was not overly chatty and<br />

spent most of his time refilling his oil tank<br />

and tightening guy wires on the cloth-winged<br />

biplane, Tew remembered.<br />

Ninety minutes after it landed, the Vin Fiz<br />

was back in the air. The plane headed toward<br />

the Capitol, and, to the delight of 14-year-old<br />

Lewis Walker and others who had climbed the<br />

steep stairs to reach the balcony that was the<br />

highest vantage point in the city, circled the<br />

dome twice. Then Rodgers flew south down<br />

Congress Avenue toward his next scheduled<br />

stop, San Antonio. But at Buda, his engine<br />

sputtered out and he had to glide to a landing.<br />

Rodgers completed the flight to the West<br />

Coast in his Burgess-Wright flying machine,<br />

but not in time to collect the prize money<br />

from Hearst. Armour, however, paid him $5<br />

per mile (the rate dropped for the miles<br />

across Texas and the Southwest because of the<br />

sparser population) for his promotion of the<br />

new soft drink, which fell a little short of<br />

becoming the next Coca-Cola. Four months<br />

later, Rodgers died in the crash of another<br />

plane after flying into flock of seagulls.<br />

The crowd that turned out to see the first<br />

airplane land at <strong>Austin</strong> that crisp October<br />

afternoon amounted to nearly ten percent of<br />

the city’s population. In 1910, federal enumerators<br />

found 29,860 residents in a city that<br />

had not annexed any new land since before<br />

the turn of the century. <strong>Austin</strong> covered only<br />

16.5 square miles. Still, the population at the<br />

end of the new century’s first decade did<br />

reflect a modest growth of more than 6,000<br />

new residents.<br />

The loss of the dam had not turned <strong>Austin</strong><br />

into a ghost town, but aside from the appearance<br />

of the first automobile, the arrival of the<br />

Missouri, Kansas and Texas Railroad (soon<br />

known as the “Katy”) in 1904, and the 1905<br />

paving of Congress Avenue with heavy red<br />

bricks made at the coal mining town of<br />

Thurber in North Texas, the Daily Statesman<br />

had few city-shaping events to chronicle.<br />

✧<br />

Top: Travis County sheriff George Matthews (left) with<br />

deputies Andrew Townsend (center) and C. White (standing),<br />

August 1908.<br />

PHOTO COURESTY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Bottom: The Crystal Saloon, 601 Congress Avenue, advertised<br />

liquors, wines, cigars, and a restaurant in connection with the<br />

saloon. Also shown are the Iron Front Saloon, 605 Congress, a<br />

barber shop, and the Driskill Hotel.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

58


<strong>Austin</strong>’s problem, the Dallas Morning News<br />

observed, was the very fact that it was a capital<br />

city. “Does any one think that <strong>Austin</strong><br />

would not have been as great a town as any in<br />

Texas if it had not been for the location of the<br />

seat of government at that place?…. The people<br />

of <strong>Austin</strong>, like the people of all capitals,<br />

have been accustomed to getting their ready<br />

cash…from the revenues of government.”<br />

Reprinting the Dallas newspaper’s comments,<br />

a short-lived <strong>Austin</strong> publication called<br />

The Current Issue agreed on July 2, 1905 with<br />

the editorial’s basic premise. But pointing to<br />

Little Rock, Atlanta, Richmond, Denver, and<br />

Salt Lake City as examples of state capitals not<br />

wholly dependent on government, the magazine<br />

suggested that the mission of the newlycreated<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Business League was “to lift<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> out of the rut of inertia.”<br />

The paving of Congress Avenue and a portion<br />

of Sixth Street, the writer continued, was<br />

a first step. “Keep on stepping,” the writer<br />

urged. “After a little we will catch the step<br />

with Dallas and Houston and San Antonio<br />

and Fort Worth. Then the Dallas News…will<br />

apologize to <strong>Austin</strong> and set her, with loving<br />

hand, among the great cities.”<br />

By the latter part of the decade, <strong>Austin</strong> was<br />

doing some stepping. Two events were seminal:<br />

In December 1908, voters approved a<br />

new form of government for their city, doing<br />

away with the aldermanic system, which fostered<br />

ward politics, in favor of a four-member<br />

commission, presided over by the mayor.<br />

Elected at large, each commissioner had<br />

responsibility for certain municipal functions,<br />

such as public works or public safety. Four<br />

months after <strong>Austin</strong> voters changed their<br />

form of government, A. P. Wooldridge, the<br />

man who helped bring <strong>Austin</strong> its university<br />

and ill-fated dam, was elected mayor.<br />

In September 1909, the same year<br />

Wooldridge took office, a young man named<br />

Walter Prescott Webb arrived in <strong>Austin</strong> on<br />

“the Katy” to attend the University.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Early aerial view of the<br />

Colorado River.<br />

Below, left: The Littlefield House, corner<br />

of Whitis Avenue and 24th Street,<br />

now part of the UT campus.<br />

Below, right: The remains of Lake<br />

McDonald after the 1900 flood washed<br />

away the dam. From the Walter Long<br />

collection.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

SEVEN<br />

59


✧<br />

Above: Portrait of George Washington<br />

Littlefield, 1842-1920.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

ETCHING COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Below: Photo taken outside the Smith and<br />

Bulian blacksmith shop about 1911. Charles<br />

Bulian wears a leather apron. A Mrs. Barber<br />

is shown seated in a covered wagon, knitting.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

60<br />

“Day was breaking and the first thing<br />

I noticed was some strange lights high in<br />

the heaven, so high that one wondered how<br />

their rays reached the ground,” Webb, who<br />

became a nationally-known professor of history,<br />

remembered years later. “A man was selling<br />

newspapers.”<br />

Webb got his trunk loaded in a hack for<br />

delivery to the University, then went across<br />

Congress Avenue to have breakfast at a<br />

restaurant owned by a Chinese family.<br />

“The clomping home of milk wagon horses<br />

was the main sound on the street,” he continued.<br />

“As I went to catch the first streetcar I<br />

had ever ridden, I noted that the street was<br />

paved with brick. Each brick had a triangular<br />

indentation, and the name Thurber lettered<br />

on it.”<br />

The 20th century was well under way, but<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> still was in transition from horses and<br />

wagons to automobiles and trucks, from<br />

small town to city. In 1910, the Congress<br />

Avenue bridge, the structure the Statesman<br />

had predicted would stand “as long as time<br />

lasts,” was replaced with a sturdier $210,000<br />

concrete span.<br />

Ten years to the day after the dam disaster,<br />

the Statesman was crowing over the voter<br />

approval, by a margin of 57 to 1, of a bond<br />

issue to fund rebuilding of the dam. A parade<br />

and speech by Governor Tom Campbell highlighted<br />

a day of celebration.<br />

“Never in the history of the city has there<br />

been such universal rejoicing,” the Statesman<br />

reported. “<strong>Austin</strong>ites are united on the dam<br />

proposition, and it is expected that in the<br />

future there will be concerted action on all<br />

big things that will be to the interest of the<br />

capital city of Texas.”<br />

In addition to big things, Mayor<br />

Wooldridge worked hard for better things,<br />

particularly parks, city beautification, funding<br />

for a city hospital, and the shutting down<br />

of the city’s long-time red-light district. A former<br />

trash dump on Guadalupe between<br />

Ninth and Tenth streets was transformed into<br />

the city’s first landscaped public park and<br />

named in the mayor’s honor.<br />

“<strong>Austin</strong> is important as the center of the<br />

State’s government, but more important as a<br />

virile business center and a city of beautiful<br />

homes and cultured environments, and with<br />

profitable industries that are augmenting<br />

their growth annually and a progressive territory<br />

all about it,” declared (with understandable<br />

exaggeration) a souvenir promotional<br />

piece prepared by the home-owned Southern<br />

National Insurance Company “and its big<br />

friend,” the Hamburg-Bremen Fire Insurance<br />

Company of Hamburg, Germany.<br />

Someone named Paul mailed one of the<br />

souvenirs to his friend Clyde Brown in the<br />

Williamson County community of Florence<br />

in 1912. The sixteen images, including a<br />

montage of the five buildings that then constituted<br />

the University of Texas, showcased a<br />

city that, despite the claims of “profitable<br />

industries,” still depended mainly on its governmental-educational<br />

cornerstones.<br />

In addition to the requisite view of<br />

the Capitol, the souvenir featured views<br />

of two new neo-classical buildings, <strong>Austin</strong>’s<br />

first downtown skyscrapers. Both had gone<br />

up at the city’s key intersection, Sixth<br />

and Congress.<br />

The more ambitious of these buildings was<br />

the new home of George W. Littlefield’s<br />

American National Bank, an institution chartered<br />

with an initial capitalization of<br />

$100,000 at the height of pre-dam optimism<br />

in 1890. The Littlefield Building would rise<br />

seven floors. But before work could begin,<br />

several early-day structures had to be razed,


including one of <strong>Austin</strong>’s first rock buildings.<br />

Nine businesses would be displaced by the<br />

new building.<br />

Even though <strong>Austin</strong> was only seven<br />

decades old, as work was about to start on the<br />

project in January 1910, the Statesman waxed<br />

nostalgically about the doomed buildings,<br />

particularly in regard to two saloons, the<br />

Crystal and the Iron Front. The two watering<br />

holes were separated by a long-time tobacco<br />

shop “whose very walls must have taken on<br />

the flavor of tobacco.”<br />

The Iron Front, a grocery store before its<br />

transformation to a saloon, had been a favorite<br />

hangout of gambler-gunslinger Ben<br />

Thompson. A dandy with a mean streak and a<br />

weakness for intoxicating beverages,<br />

Thompson nevertheless provided exemplary<br />

service as <strong>Austin</strong>’s City Marshal in 1881-1882.<br />

Two years after he resigned his office, he was<br />

shot to death in San Antonio. The Iron Front<br />

and the Crystal, the Statesman observed, “are<br />

dear to the hearts of the older residents of<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, for they have been the scene of pleasures,<br />

sports and grief…occasional altercations<br />

more or less violent in their character.”<br />

But soon, the newspaper continued, “a<br />

great building will arise to mark the progress<br />

the city of <strong>Austin</strong> has made in keeping with<br />

the onward march of progress going on<br />

throughout the world.”<br />

With Corinthian pilasters and a mixture of<br />

Renaissance and Gothic touches, the brick,<br />

granite, and marble structure, complete with<br />

its own electrical generating plant and water<br />

well (very practical considerations in light of<br />

the dam disaster), was <strong>Austin</strong>’s most impressive<br />

commercial building. For a brief time, it<br />

stood as the tallest office building between<br />

New Orleans and San Francisco. Its two elevators<br />

raced between floors, the Statesman<br />

noted, at 400 feet a minute. Gracing the main<br />

entrance to the street-level bank lobby were<br />

heavy bronze Tiffany doors featuring cattle<br />

range scenes by sculptor H. Daniel Webster.<br />

Littlefield’s financial institution offered “every<br />

convenience and luxury known to modern<br />

banking,” including “a lady teller for the<br />

accommodation of the lady patrons.”<br />

A roof garden restaurant intended for “the<br />

family trade,” as the newspaper put it, opened<br />

June 6, 1912. A five-mile long beam thrown<br />

by a searchlight atop the building played<br />

across the night sky as <strong>Austin</strong>ites attending<br />

the grand opening enjoyed orchestra music, a<br />

cello solo and a two-reel “moving picture.”<br />

Any of the women who turned out for the<br />

gala that night in new dresses may have done<br />

their shopping at Scarborough and Hicks, the<br />

department store putting up a new eightstory<br />

building on the southwest corner of<br />

✧<br />

Below: Promotional brochure from the<br />

early 1900s.<br />

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Bottom: <strong>Austin</strong>’s telephone office began<br />

operating on June 1, 1881 with five<br />

customers. Early switchboards were<br />

operated by women.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

SEVEN<br />

61


✧<br />

Above: Sampling of World War I posters.<br />

Below, left: World War I tanks parked near<br />

the Missouri-Kansas-Texas railroad freight<br />

depot in 1916.<br />

Below, right: World War I military vehicle,<br />

which was later converted to a commissary<br />

truck.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Sixth and Congress, diagonally across<br />

the street from Littlefield’s bank. The store<br />

had been in business in <strong>Austin</strong> since 1893.<br />

The new building, patterned after Chicago<br />

high-rises, would rise on a two-story base of<br />

Doric piers.<br />

Littlefield, reflective of his competitive<br />

nature, in 1915 closed in the rooftop restaurant<br />

and added another floor to make his<br />

building nine stories tall, one floor higher<br />

than the Scarborough Building.<br />

As <strong>Austin</strong>’s skyline changed, workmen<br />

west of town were busy rebuilding the dam.<br />

Once again the city had aspirations of industrial<br />

development. This time, the city had a<br />

contract with a private company to build the<br />

dam for $100,000, payable on completion<br />

and acceptance by the city. The city then<br />

would pay $64,800 a year for twenty-five<br />

years for electrical power. After that, the dam<br />

would become city property. Work progressed<br />

through 1914. In the summer of<br />

1915, as the city and the contractor continued<br />

in a dispute over whether the project was<br />

complete, flood waters destroyed most of the<br />

wooden spillway gates and caused other<br />

damage. A flood in September further damaged<br />

the gates.<br />

Amid the legal wrangling that followed,<br />

the company that built the dam went out of<br />

business. Despite a lot of talk, committee<br />

meetings, and report writing, <strong>Austin</strong> would<br />

not have a functioning dam for years to come.<br />

The city soon faced another crisis.<br />

Newspaper extras broke the news to <strong>Austin</strong><br />

on April 2, 1917. Congress, responding to<br />

President Woodrow Wilson’s admonition that<br />

“the world must be made safe for democracy,”<br />

declared war on Germany. The nation had<br />

finally become embroiled in the conflict that<br />

had been raging in Europe since 1914.<br />

Not all the big news in <strong>Austin</strong> was coming<br />

from Washington and Europe, however.<br />

On August 25, 1917, Lieutenant Governor<br />

William P. Hobby became Governor following<br />

the removal from office of James E. Ferguson.<br />

First elected in 1914, and re-elected two<br />

years later, Governor Ferguson was<br />

impeached shortly after his second inauguration.<br />

The state Senate found him guilty of ten<br />

charges of corruption, but his biggest offense<br />

had been political: He had tried to veto the<br />

University’s appropriation.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

62


Meanwhile, scores of young <strong>Austin</strong> men<br />

enlisted in the Army, Navy, and Marines.<br />

Women organized to do sewing and make<br />

bandages for the Red Cross. <strong>Austin</strong> became<br />

something of an Army town with the establishment<br />

of three training facilities operated<br />

in association with the University. In the old<br />

School for the Blind on East Eighteenth<br />

Street, the Army opened a ground school for<br />

pilots. At Camp Mabry, it set up an automobile<br />

mechanics school, and near St. Edward’s<br />

University in South <strong>Austin</strong>, a radio school. By<br />

the end of the war in 1918, 15,000 men had<br />

completed at least eight weeks of training in<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>. Forty University faculty members had<br />

taken leaves of absence to work for the government.<br />

In addition, 2,000 University students<br />

had gone “Over There,” some never to<br />

return. Forty-five <strong>Austin</strong> military men and<br />

one woman, nurse Mary Cardwell, died during<br />

the war, most from disease. Only five died<br />

as a result of wounds or gas in combat.<br />

At 6 a.m. on November 11, 1918, the<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> American put out a four-page extra<br />

with every word printed in red ink: An<br />

armistice had been signed and the war was<br />

over. “From early morn, when the whistles<br />

blew and the bells rang out the glad armistice<br />

tidings…till the end of a perfect day of rejoicing,<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> smiled its victory smile and came<br />

to Congress Avenue to celebrate,” the afternoon<br />

Statesman reported later that day.<br />

Jubilation over the end of the war was tempered<br />

by a world-wide influenza epidemic<br />

that hit <strong>Austin</strong> hard. The month before the<br />

armistice, 216 <strong>Austin</strong>ites died of the flu. The<br />

incidence of the disease did not begin to wane<br />

until the spring of 1919.<br />

The following year, when federal census<br />

workers began knocking on doors in 1920,<br />

they found <strong>Austin</strong> had 34,876 residents. That<br />

count, a growth of only 16.8 percent in a<br />

decade, dropped <strong>Austin</strong> to the state’s tenth<br />

largest city. Forty years before, it had been<br />

fourth most populous in Texas.<br />

The University was doing a little better. By<br />

1920, with some 4,000 students, it was the<br />

largest university in the South. But it was not<br />

a wealthy institution. It depended on income<br />

from grazing rights on its vast land holdings<br />

in West Texas—public land set aside by the<br />

Constitution and legislative act to support the<br />

school—and sometimes meager legislative<br />

appropriations. The land-generated income<br />

went into the Permanent University Fund<br />

with only the interest available for spending.<br />

The University may not have been awash<br />

in cash, but other cities still wanted the<br />

school in their town. Though the<br />

Constitution said <strong>Austin</strong> should be the university’s<br />

home, the Chamber of Commerce<br />

had to fight down a serious effort in the<br />

Legislature to move the school out to the<br />

Brackenridge Tract on the river or even to<br />

some other city. The Chamber facilitated the<br />

inexpensive purchase of 132 acres contiguous<br />

to the original 40-acre tract and, as the man<br />

who was manager of the Chamber later wrote,<br />

“this ended the constant threat of removing<br />

the University of Texas from <strong>Austin</strong>.”<br />

Since its opening in 1886, the Driskill had<br />

remained <strong>Austin</strong>’s best and largest hotel. But<br />

the city did not have enough rooms to<br />

accommodate all the visitors who came in for<br />

events at UT (as the school came to be<br />

referred to) and legislative sessions. The<br />

Chamber of Commerce tried for years to promote<br />

construction of another large hotel, but<br />

an assortment of projects failed and investors<br />

were skittish. Finally, the Chamber sold<br />

$600,000 worth of bonds to finance the<br />

Stephen F. <strong>Austin</strong>, a hotel that would honor<br />

the city’s namesake. Construction of the<br />

✧<br />

Top, left: Stephen F. <strong>Austin</strong> Hotel in the final<br />

stages of construction, ca. 1924.<br />

Below, top to bottom:<br />

As early as 1865, Wesley Chapel M.E.<br />

(Methodist-Episcopal) became <strong>Austin</strong>'s first<br />

formally organized church for the African-<br />

American community.<br />

The German Methodist Episcopal Church<br />

“as seen from my window.” H. B. Hillyer,<br />

photographer, 303 E. Ash (Ninth) Street.<br />

Our Lady of Guadalupe opened in 1907 to<br />

serve the needs of the Mexican community.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

SEVEN<br />

63


✧<br />

Above: View of Sixth Street with electric<br />

streetcars. “You can’t drive your automobile out<br />

of your own garage for the price of a streetcar<br />

ride,” the company advertised.<br />

Top, right: Hats were big in the early 1900s,<br />

as these ladies show, posing by a new building<br />

under construction on the UT campus.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Below: Quality Mills was one of <strong>Austin</strong>’s few<br />

industries in the 1920s.<br />

ETCHING COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

64<br />

eleven-story hotel (four stories would be<br />

added later) began in 1923.<br />

That same year, one of the most important<br />

developments in <strong>Austin</strong>’s history happened<br />

300 miles to the west. On May 28, 1923, an<br />

oil well blew in near Big Lake in Reagan<br />

County. The well, Santa Rita Number 1, was<br />

the beginning of the West Texas oil boom.<br />

That boom was a boon for that part of the<br />

state, but the Santa Rita and many of the<br />

other wells soon drilled had something in<br />

common that was even more significant for<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>: They were on University land and UT<br />

had the mineral rights.<br />

Back in <strong>Austin</strong>, business leaders were<br />

pushing for a new form of municipal government,<br />

the council-manager system. On August<br />

9, 1924, by a scant margin of twenty votes,<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>ites approved a new city charter. No<br />

matter the wish of the electorate, it took two<br />

years to convert to the new system in which a<br />

non-paid city council would establish policy<br />

and enact ordinances while a professional city<br />

manager ran the city on a day-to-day basis.<br />

The stormy transition to a new form of<br />

municipal government, delayed and legally<br />

challenged by the salaried commissioners,<br />

made for a bouncy political football, but the<br />

spectator sport most <strong>Austin</strong>ites preferred featured<br />

the more traditional sort of pigskin. In<br />

February 1924, the University began collecting<br />

donations for a football stadium.<br />

Students, alumni, anyone wanting to memorialize<br />

the 5,000 Texans who died during the<br />

war were asked to contribute money in a<br />

campaign with the slogan of “For Texas, I<br />

Will.” In a matter of weeks, some 10,000 people<br />

had raised $465,000. By April, construction<br />

was under way. UT football already was<br />

in its thirty-second season when fans gathered<br />

for the first time at the newly constructed<br />

Memorial Stadium, a 27,000-seat concrete<br />

and steel structure the student newspaper<br />

heralded as “the South’s greatest athletic<br />

field.” Texas lost to Baylor University 28-10 in<br />

the first game ever played in the stadium, but<br />

a couple of weeks later, following the formal<br />

dedication on Thanksgiving Day, UT beat<br />

Texas A&M 7-0.<br />

The Twenties roared in <strong>Austin</strong> like the<br />

gridiron fans who packed the city’s new football<br />

stadium every other Saturday during the<br />

fall, but within a few years the prosperity that<br />

had made it a simple proposition to build a<br />

large sports facility with donations would<br />

topple like an opponent’s goal posts after a<br />

big game. But the occasion would be no cause<br />

for celebration.


“THE NEW DEAL<br />

WAS A GOOD DEAL”<br />

The future lay ahead for University of Texas student Jake Pickle that fall of 1932, but it did not<br />

look good.<br />

Pickle’s father ran a country store in Big Spring, out in West Texas. Most of his customers were<br />

ranchers and farmers, and he gladly extended them credit.<br />

“When the farmers couldn’t pay, my father was left with a stack of IOUs which haven’t been paid<br />

yet,” Pickle recalled years later. “And not because people wanted to beat him out of the bill, but<br />

because they didn’t have any money.”<br />

Since the stock market crash on October 29, 1929—“Black Tuesday”—the nation’s economy<br />

had been slowly settling. By 1932, the year Pickle graduated from high school and decided to come<br />

to the University of Texas, the situation was grim. Nationally, 12 million people were out of work,<br />

a quarter of the entire work force.<br />

“Somehow my father scraped together about $65, gave it to me, shook hands with me and said<br />

he hoped I could make it,” Pickle said. “Twenty-five dollars went to register, $25 went for the first<br />

semester room and $15 was for books.”<br />

When Pickle enrolled at UT, <strong>Austin</strong> was a city of 59,000, the seventh largest in Texas. It had more<br />

than 14,000 houses, forty-six churches, five hotels, and nine theaters. Travis County had a new five-<br />

✧<br />

Civilian Conservation Corps workers<br />

built bridges and made many other<br />

improvements in <strong>Austin</strong> during the Depression.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

EIGHT<br />

65


✧<br />

No banks failed in <strong>Austin</strong> during the<br />

Depression, but Republic Bank & Trust<br />

Company had to be restructured.<br />

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

66<br />

story limestone courthouse of the Modernistic<br />

architectural style at Eleventh and Guadalupe.<br />

The state took over the old courthouse on<br />

Congress Avenue for use as a state office building<br />

and renamed it for long-time <strong>Austin</strong> attorney<br />

William Martin (Buck) Walton.<br />

The effect of the stock crash had not been<br />

immediate in Texas’ capital. A drought in the<br />

summer of 1930 had hurt the economy worse<br />

than the chaos on Wall Street. “As <strong>Austin</strong><br />

opens a new year, it can look forward, with<br />

optimism and take satisfaction in showing a<br />

stable financial, building and improvements<br />

era in the last 12 months,” the <strong>Austin</strong><br />

American said on January 2, 1931.<br />

By 1933, however, retail sales in the city<br />

were declining sharply. University, state, and<br />

municipal salaries were being cut. UT slashed<br />

its payroll by twenty-five percent. More than<br />

2,000 <strong>Austin</strong>ites were out of work. Several<br />

construction jobs were nearly finished,<br />

dooming more jobs. Five thousand heads of<br />

families in <strong>Austin</strong> were on relief, when a lack<br />

of money caused all but 1,164 of them to be<br />

dropped from the welfare rolls, forcing them<br />

somehow to fend for themselves.<br />

Earlier during the Depression, before the<br />

number of unemployed grew too large for the<br />

Statesman to focus on only one family, it ran<br />

what amounted to a want ad in its news<br />

columns: L. B. Harris, “an <strong>Austin</strong> man, young,<br />

able-bodied and intelligent,” trained as a<br />

locomotive engineer, had not had work for<br />

two months. “More than anything else he<br />

wants a chance to work and a chance to support<br />

his wife and their 19-months-old baby,”<br />

the newspaper said. “The <strong>Austin</strong> Statesman<br />

asks that anyone knowing of work call him at<br />

4807. Harris lives in Ridgetop. By giving<br />

Harris a job, you will be helping three <strong>Austin</strong><br />

people to remain independent citizens.”<br />

At least prices were low. A restaurant near<br />

the university campus offered a Sunday lunch<br />

of turkey, dressing, vegetables and dessert for<br />

only fifty cents. Those wanting to do their<br />

own cooking could get choice steak at twenty-five<br />

cents a pound. At Scarbrough’s department<br />

store, a fine men’s suit cost less than<br />

thirty dollars.<br />

On March 4, 1933, Franklin D. Roosevelt<br />

was sworn in as President. Before his election,<br />

in accepting the Democratic party’s nomination,<br />

he had declared: “I pledge myself to a<br />

new deal for the American people.”<br />

The next day’s newspaper headlines heralded<br />

Roosevelt’s ascension to the White<br />

House as the beginning of the New Deal. For<br />

the people of <strong>Austin</strong> and the rest of the<br />

nation, it was more than the birth of a catchy<br />

phrase, it was the beginning of a state<br />

of mind. The next seven years saw a tremendous<br />

influx of federal money, and when the<br />

decade was over, <strong>Austin</strong> was a different—and<br />

better—city.<br />

As President Roosevelt set out to improve<br />

the country’s economy, Jake Pickle set out to<br />

improve his own. Pickle started a milk delivery<br />

business at his Little Campus dormitory.<br />

He got up at 5:30 a.m. daily to pick up fresh<br />

milk at Myer’s Creamery at 310 W. Sixth<br />

Street and then leave the cold bottles outside<br />

customers’ dorm room doors.


“I’d make a penny on a pint of milk and I’d<br />

make a penny and a half, maybe two pennies,<br />

on a quart,” Pickle said. “I’d make twenty-five<br />

cents or so a day, if the fellows wouldn’t throw<br />

away the bottles or break ‘em.”<br />

Soon he had enough money to buy an 89<br />

cent alarm clock.<br />

“I named it Old Roosevelt, because he was<br />

our hero,” Pickle said. “Roosevelt was starting<br />

the New Deal, and that alarm clock would get<br />

me up and get me going, just like Roosevelt<br />

was trying to do for America.”<br />

While Jake Pickle was delivering milk to<br />

support himself as a University student,<br />

Charles Ballard had gone broke. Married and<br />

with a family, Ballard moved to <strong>Austin</strong> from<br />

Bryan in 1933.<br />

“I got a basement room on Tenth Street<br />

for $2.50 a week,” he later recalled. “We had<br />

one room and a kerosene stove, but it was<br />

all right.”<br />

Ballard had one pair of old boots, the soles<br />

tied together with baling wire. His faded<br />

overalls, which he paid six bits for, drew up<br />

when they were washed.<br />

“We didn’t have everything we wanted, but<br />

we managed to eat,” he said.<br />

One of the many so-called<br />

Alphabet Agencies quickly<br />

pushed through Congress by<br />

Roosevelt was the Public Works<br />

Administration, which in April<br />

1935 became the Works<br />

Progress Administration.<br />

“I had a WPA job working<br />

on the San Antonio highway,”<br />

Ballard recalled. “I got $2 a day<br />

as a teamster, using four mules<br />

to haul a dump wagon. They<br />

gave me the worst mules,<br />

because I knew something<br />

about mules. I had a friend<br />

who got a job saying that he<br />

knew something about mules, and the first<br />

thing he did was try to put the collar on a<br />

mule upside down. He needed a job.”<br />

Later, Ballard got a WPA-funded job doing<br />

iron work on several bridges being constructed<br />

across Shoal Creek, including the 24th<br />

Street bridge, WPA Texas Project 2072-2-F.<br />

“I made $11 a week, every other week. The<br />

week we didn’t get money, we got groceries…<br />

hams, bacon and canned goods. The New<br />

Deal was a good deal.”<br />

✧<br />

Above: UT football schedule for 1935.<br />

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Left: Civilian Conservation Corps men<br />

worked hard, but managed to find a little<br />

time for fun.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

EIGHT<br />

67


✧<br />

Above: <strong>Austin</strong> Municipal Airport in the<br />

1930s had an office building, a weather<br />

station, gasoline—and plenty of parking<br />

space right at the gate.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Below: Braniff Airways was one of the<br />

earliest airlines to serve <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

68<br />

Money was scarce in <strong>Austin</strong> during the<br />

Depression, though none of the city’s banks<br />

failed. But two financial institutions, Texas<br />

Bank and Trust and Republic Bank and Trust,<br />

did have serious problems. Both banks had<br />

too many uncollectible farm loans, and a<br />

merger and some federal Reconstruction<br />

Finance Corporation capital led to the creation<br />

of Capital National Bank.<br />

“No one lost any money,” later recalled<br />

Eddie Cravens, who had been president of the<br />

Chamber of Commerce the year before the<br />

stock market crash.<br />

“The University and the state capital being<br />

here were the two big factors in pulling<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> through the Depression,” he said.<br />

“And there was a fine spirit in <strong>Austin</strong>.”<br />

Indeed, a popular slogan of the day was,<br />

“Where there is no vision, the people perish.”<br />

One man with that vision was Tom Miller.<br />

A big man as comfortable in quoting<br />

Shakespeare as he was engaging in fisticuffs,<br />

Miller was born in <strong>Austin</strong> in 1893. He graduated<br />

from <strong>Austin</strong> High School and managed<br />

to attend UT for three semesters before his<br />

father’s death forced him to abandon higher<br />

education in favor of keeping the family produce<br />

business running.<br />

In 1933, Miller was elected mayor. The<br />

people of <strong>Austin</strong> would return him to office<br />

every two years throughout the Depression<br />

and for most of the 1940s.<br />

“Tom Miller was a product of East <strong>Austin</strong>,<br />

the old Tenth Ward,” Pickle said. “The little<br />

folks believed in him. He was a dominating<br />

figure…willing to listen and take action. He<br />

could bring the council together and the city<br />

would follow. Mayor Tom just looked the part<br />

of the city mayor…rotund, powerful, a little<br />

vain, a sense of humor.”<br />

Walter Long, manager of the Chamber<br />

of Commerce since its creation in 1914,<br />

worked with Miller in getting federal money<br />

for <strong>Austin</strong>, as did bankers H.A. Wroe and<br />

Ed Bartholomew.<br />

Some $6 million in federal money paved<br />

streets, built bridges and parks, and refurbished<br />

Barton Springs Pool. The springs and a<br />

sizable tract of adjoining land had been donated<br />

to the city in 1918 by Andrew Zilker for<br />

use as a park. In addition to these projects, a<br />

new Federal Building was constructed.<br />

WPA money also went to pave the runways<br />

at <strong>Austin</strong>’s Robert Mueller Airport, which had<br />

been dedicated on October 14, 1930. The airport<br />

(early newspaper articles about it sometimes<br />

referred to it as the “airport station”)<br />

was located four miles northeast of downtown<br />

on 340 acres of land formerly used for<br />

growing cotton. Aviation had come a long<br />

way in <strong>Austin</strong> since the arrival of the Vin-Fiz<br />

in 1911, moving from a novelty to an important<br />

transportation system for passengers and<br />

mail. By 1935, three airlines were serving the<br />

capital city.<br />

Not all the money being spent in <strong>Austin</strong><br />

and Central Texas was federal. The University,<br />

flush with oil money, embarked on an ambitious<br />

building program. Temporary wooden<br />

structures dating back to World War I and<br />

before, a style of architecture some wag<br />

referred to as “shack-o-tecture,” were<br />

torn down to make room for permanent facilities<br />

paid for with interest earned by<br />

the Permanent Fund. Texas voters had<br />

approved a Constitutional amendment to<br />

make it possible to borrow from the fund to<br />

erect needed buildings.<br />

Nine new limestone buildings with red tile<br />

roofs, based on a campus master plan prepared<br />

by Philadelphia architect Paul P. Cret,


were dedicated in 1933, the fiftieth anniversary<br />

of the University.<br />

A year later, construction started on what<br />

would be the most visible University structure,<br />

a new library and administration building<br />

that would rise twenty-seven stories. The<br />

307-foot Tower, as it soon became known,<br />

would replace Old Main, the University’s first<br />

building. Not everyone at the University was<br />

pleased with the new $3 million building.<br />

Writer-professor J. Frank Dobie was critical,<br />

carping that the building should have been<br />

laid on its side and given a long porch. Nearly<br />

twenty years after the Tower’s completion,<br />

Dobie’s friend and former fellow faculty member<br />

Walter Prescott Webb, still had not grown<br />

✧<br />

Views of the Colorado River during the 1935<br />

flood and some of the damage it caused.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Bottom, left: <strong>Austin</strong> had an airport, but<br />

trains remained the principal mode of<br />

transportation until after World War II.<br />

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

EIGHT<br />

69


✧<br />

Above: UT Tower under construction.<br />

Top, middle: UT Tower.<br />

Top, right: Aerial view of <strong>Austin</strong>, ca. 1934,<br />

shows Old Main building on the UT campus<br />

without the Tower.<br />

Below: As a young Congressman, LBJ helped<br />

UT negotiate a contract to purchase the old<br />

magnesium plant. It became the Balcones<br />

Research Center in 1953, and was renamed<br />

J. J. Pickle Research Center in 1994.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

70<br />

fond of the Tower. He called it “the greatest<br />

mistake ever perpetrated by a Northern architect<br />

operating in a Southern climate.”<br />

Nature was as much a problem for <strong>Austin</strong><br />

during the Depression as the economy. In<br />

June 1935, heavy rains over the Llano River<br />

watershed sent flood waters pouring into the<br />

Colorado River. On Saturday, June 15, the<br />

river at <strong>Austin</strong> crested higher than it had since<br />

1869. Nearly a mile wide, the river covered<br />

the Congress Avenue bridge and washed away<br />

the Montopolis bridge. By the time the flood<br />

crest reached Webberville, the raging river<br />

was three miles wide.<br />

The story of the final taming of the Colorado<br />

is as long and winding as the river itself, but its<br />

essential elements would fit in a glass of water:<br />

Despite years of talk and faltering private and<br />

local government-funded attempts, the successful<br />

damming of the Colorado took good<br />

engineering and the kind of money only the<br />

federal government could provide.<br />

Federal money channeled through the<br />

Lower Colorado River Authority, created in<br />

1934, paid for six dams that put an end to<br />

disastrous flooding along the river and gave<br />

Central Texas a series of highland lakes.<br />

Though some of the lakes would provide<br />

hydroelectric power, they generated an economic<br />

power as well—the lakes became<br />

recreation destinations.<br />

All of the lakes constructed by the LCRA<br />

were critical in finally taming the river, but<br />

the most important dams from <strong>Austin</strong>’s perspective<br />

were the huge structure that went up<br />

at the old Marshall Ford crossing in western<br />

Travis County, which created 65-mile long<br />

Lake Travis, and a dam on the site of the two<br />

failed dams immediately west of the city.<br />

With $14 million in WPA funds, construction<br />

started on the <strong>Austin</strong> dam on July 5,<br />

1938. The dam was finished less than two<br />

years later on February 16, 1940. It was dedicated<br />

on April 6 that year and, contrary to<br />

federal rules, was named in honor of a living<br />

person, Mayor Tom Miller. But the mayor<br />

who had pushed through the first dam project,<br />

John McDonald, was forgotten in the<br />

naming of the new lake, which became simply<br />

Lake <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Twenty miles upriver from <strong>Austin</strong>, work<br />

was under way on the Marshall Ford dam, a<br />

structure that would be a mile wide and 266<br />

feet high. The LCRA began power generation<br />

at the dam on January 27, 1941 and a month<br />

later named the structure in honor of U.S.<br />

Representative J. J. Mansfield. The dam was<br />

completed sixteen months later.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> had finally won its war with the<br />

Colorado, but another conflict lay ahead.


“WIN THE WAR FIRST”<br />

In the fall of 1941, teenagers living in and around the small farming town of Del Valle, including<br />

seventeen-year-old Harvey Gann, jokingly referred to their quiet community as “Dull” Valle.<br />

Seven miles southeast of downtown <strong>Austin</strong>, Del Valle had a population of only a hundred or so.<br />

That was just enough people to modestly support Jim Johnson’s grocery store and Clarence Burch’s<br />

mercantile along with a post office, a justice of the peace office, a school, a cotton gin, and the<br />

blacksmith’s shop Gann’s father owned.<br />

A visit to Del Valle by a group of Army officers looking for land for an air field stirred up some<br />

talk, but most folks were more animated in discussing the price a bale of cotton brought than the<br />

war going on in Europe or any interest the Army might have in the area around Del Valle. As a high<br />

school senior, Gann was more interested in getting a ride into <strong>Austin</strong> to catch a movie at the<br />

Paramount, followed by a cold soda at the Stephen F. <strong>Austin</strong> Hotel drug store and fountain. The<br />

war in Europe dominated the Fox Movietone News that preceded each movie, but the black-andwhite<br />

images of destruction featured on the news reel had no real bearing on Gann’s life—or any-<br />

✧<br />

A photo display of <strong>Austin</strong>’s servicemen<br />

urged civilians to buy Defense Stamps<br />

and Bonds.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

NINE<br />

71


✧<br />

Above: Streetcar service ended on February<br />

7, 1940, and workmen took up the tracks.<br />

Above, right: The last streetcar in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Below: In early 1942, <strong>Austin</strong>ites feared<br />

the possibility of air raids and practiced<br />

holding blackouts.<br />

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

one else’s in the <strong>Austin</strong> area—until December<br />

7, 1941.<br />

That Sunday was unseasonably warm.<br />

Gann had gone over to a friend’s house that<br />

afternoon. One of their buddies was outside,<br />

listening to music on a car radio when the<br />

announcer broke in with a news bulletin: The<br />

Japanese had bombed the U.S. Navy base at<br />

Pearl Harbor.<br />

No one knew it at the time, but an<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>ite was among the many victims of<br />

that first day of war, killed when the Japanese<br />

struck Clark Army Air Field in the<br />

Philippines at the same time they hit Pearl<br />

Harbor. Because the Philippines were across<br />

the international date line from Hawaii,<br />

the date of his death was recorded as<br />

December 8. The man’s name was John A. E.<br />

Bergstrom. A reserve captain, he had left his<br />

job at <strong>Austin</strong> National Bank and gone on<br />

active duty in October.<br />

The war that Congress officially declared<br />

the day after Bergstrom’s death changed the<br />

world. The impact on <strong>Austin</strong> was immediate<br />

and long-lasting. Within weeks, city officials<br />

had conducted <strong>Austin</strong>’s first blackout.<br />

Schools were issued instructions on what<br />

actions to take to protect students in the event<br />

of an air raid. For the first time since the Civil<br />

War, <strong>Austin</strong> felt vulnerable to military attack.<br />

Voters had no problem with a $600,000<br />

bond issue enabling the City of <strong>Austin</strong> to pay<br />

for the 3,000 acres of land at Del Valle the<br />

Army had inspected only a week before Pearl<br />

Harbor. When the land was purchased by the<br />

city, it was leased to the Army for one dollar a<br />

year. Cotton fields and most of the modest<br />

structures in Del Valle were bulldozed to<br />

make way for Del Valle Army Air Base. After<br />

only four months of construction, the air field<br />

was opened on September 19, 1942. The<br />

same month, Harvey Gann was inducted into<br />

the Air Corps.<br />

Realizing that military spending anywhere<br />

in Central Texas was still good for <strong>Austin</strong> and<br />

Travis County, elected officials from mayor to<br />

U.S. Congressman, along with the Chamber<br />

of Commerce, actively courted the federal<br />

government. The work paid off.<br />

Camp Swift, an even larger military facility<br />

than the air base at Del Valle, was constructed<br />

by the Army thirty-eight miles east of<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> in Bastrop County. The effect on the<br />

capital city was enormous. Soon more than<br />

40,000 soldiers were undergoing training at<br />

the sprawling camp in the pine trees, and it<br />

was not unusual for half of them to show up<br />

in <strong>Austin</strong> on the weekends. Thirty miles<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

72


south of <strong>Austin</strong> at San Marcos, the Army<br />

opened another air base, Camp Gary. Sixtyfive<br />

miles to the northwest, the Army established<br />

a tank training facility near the small<br />

town of Killeen. The post was named Camp<br />

Hood in honor of Confederate General John<br />

Bell Hood.<br />

The war brought prosperity as well as the<br />

need to sacrifice. American military progress<br />

soon dimmed the possibility of any enemy<br />

attack on America, but <strong>Austin</strong>ites had to contend<br />

with war shortages and rationing of<br />

everything from sugar to tires. The city put in<br />

a municipal vegetable garden on 72.5 acres of<br />

city land on two tracts along the Colorado<br />

River off Barton Springs Road. In the summer<br />

of 1943, the garden yielded enough corn,<br />

sweet potatoes, green beans, onions, and tomatoes<br />

to keep the city-owned Brackenridge<br />

Hospital supplied for months, with 35,000 jars<br />

put up in reserve. <strong>Austin</strong>ites were urged to cultivate<br />

their own gardens as well. They also collected<br />

scrap metal for recycling into war material<br />

and saved their kitchen grease for production<br />

of glycerine.<br />

Production of another ingredient of war,<br />

the light metal magnesium, began on October<br />

31, 1942 at a $23 million plant constructed<br />

on a tract of land adjacent to the railroad<br />

tracks eight miles north of <strong>Austin</strong>. Again, the<br />

Chamber of Commerce—which in the Walter<br />

Long era amounted to <strong>Austin</strong>’s second governing<br />

body—had put together a deal to provide<br />

the land at a low cost, winning the plant<br />

for <strong>Austin</strong> despite stiff competition.<br />

The ongoing world war was not stopping<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>’s business leaders from thinking about<br />

the future. On March 12, 1944, the <strong>Austin</strong><br />

American-Statesman published 44,000 copies<br />

of an eight-page tabloid, “Inventory of Some<br />

Present and Future Needs for <strong>Austin</strong> and Its<br />

Territory.” Prepared by the Chamber of<br />

Commerce, the publication was a wish list—<br />

the Chamber was careful to say it was not a<br />

plan—based on interviews with 11,700 citizens<br />

begun in 1943. “From this inventory,”<br />

the text on the front page explained, “necessary<br />

projects for immediate attention when<br />

the war is over, other projects for a five- or<br />

✧<br />

Top: During World War II, civilians pitched<br />

aluminum cans into a collection bin near<br />

the Capitol.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Above: Even before the war began, <strong>Austin</strong>ites<br />

were lending a hand to Great Britain.<br />

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Bottom, left: Three Women’s Army Corps<br />

members pay a visit to a pond on the<br />

Capitol grounds.<br />

Middle, left: Women’s Volunteer Services<br />

helped out on the home front while men<br />

served in the armed forces. Here they are<br />

delivering <strong>Austin</strong>’s 1942 telephone directories.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Left. <strong>Austin</strong> inductees are sworn in.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

NINE<br />

73


✧<br />

Above: Portrait of Walter Long, a major<br />

figure in the economic development of the<br />

Capital City.<br />

Top, right: With the victory over Japan<br />

(V-J Day, August 9, 1945), spontaneous<br />

celebrations sprang up all over <strong>Austin</strong>, like<br />

this one in the rotunda of the Capitol.<br />

Below: Four decades after the dam broke,<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> finally got a lake on the Colorado.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

74<br />

ten-year period after the war, and projects for<br />

long-range achievement, may be sorted into<br />

appropriate categories.”<br />

The inventory listed ideas in nineteen categories,<br />

from agriculture to preparedness<br />

(“The inventive genius of men which has<br />

evolved explosives, death-dealing gases, and<br />

rocket planes—can result in the subjugation<br />

of all civilized nations to barbaric rule if the<br />

Christian nations of the world lapse into a<br />

condition of unpreparedness”).<br />

Some of the ideas were particular to the<br />

times, others quite visionary. Under the<br />

health category was a suggestion that male<br />

cedar trees around <strong>Austin</strong> be destroyed and<br />

replaced “with suitable trees as determined by<br />

research in types of vegetation” in an effort to<br />

curb asthma, a term the report used to<br />

include allergies. A suggestion that landing<br />

spaces for helicopters be located “throughout<br />

the city” evokes a Jetsons-like image of average<br />

folks whirling around town in flying helicars,<br />

but most of the ideas were solid: Use<br />

Bergstrom field for international air transportation;<br />

build a low dam to create a shallow<br />

lake in downtown <strong>Austin</strong> and beautify it;<br />

build a “Super Highway” to provide for north<br />

and south “interregional transportation;” and<br />

build more parks, schools, and better roads.<br />

Still, the report stressed, it was necessary to<br />

“Win the War First.”<br />

One of the ideas set forth in the inventory,<br />

though it never materialized, had to do


with a facility that would play a crucial role<br />

in <strong>Austin</strong>’s future development: the magnesium<br />

plant.<br />

“No community is well-balanced in its<br />

civic or commercial life without a reasonable<br />

number of properly located industrial plants,”<br />

the Chamber’s report said. Listed under<br />

industrial projects was this suggestion:<br />

“Stimulate the greater use of magnesium in<br />

post-war production of utensils, implements,<br />

vehicles and other everyday necessities<br />

requiring metal.”<br />

Coming up with additional uses for magnesium,<br />

which was produced at the plant from<br />

dolomite mined in the Hill Country, would<br />

lead to the opening of additional factories, the<br />

report reasoned. With the increased demand<br />

for the metal, the magnesium plant would be<br />

able to stay in operation after the war.<br />

But even before the war ended shortly after<br />

the use of two atomic bombs on Japan in the<br />

summer of 1945, the magnesium plant had<br />

been shut down. For a time, its twenty-eight<br />

buildings stood vacant.<br />

Soon, enrollment at the University was<br />

soaring as returning veterans sought higher<br />

education under the GI Bill. Jake Pickle, back<br />

from service in the Navy, started a new<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> radio station with several other<br />

investors, including future Governor John B.<br />

Connally. They sought and received from the<br />

Federal Communications Commission the<br />

call letters KVET, the VET for veterans.<br />

Overwhelmed by the surge in enrollment,<br />

the University cast its eyes on the 393-acre<br />

magnesium plant property as a place to house<br />

students. Rethinking that idea, the University<br />

decided that the plant would make a perfect<br />

place for research projects. The students<br />

could live in a small city of converted Army<br />

barracks moved to the University-owned<br />

Brackenridge tract in West <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

In 1946, the former magnesium plant was<br />

leased to the University by the federal War<br />

Assets Administration for one dollar a year.<br />

Three years later, with help from freshman<br />

U.S. Senator Lyndon Johnson, a deal was<br />

struck enabling UT to buy the property for<br />

$1.5 million from the federal government in<br />

exchange for providing educational benefits<br />

over a twenty-year period.<br />

The Balcones Research Center was still<br />

well outside <strong>Austin</strong>. The city limits ended at<br />

✧<br />

Top, left: Magnesium plant under<br />

construction. Magnesium production<br />

was vital to the U.S. war effort.<br />

Above: The plant produced its first<br />

magnesium ingot on October 31, 1942.<br />

Below: W. Sixth Street, looking east from<br />

Guadalupe after the streetcar tracks were<br />

removed. The U. S. flag flies over the old<br />

Federal Building at 124 W. Sixth Street.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

NINE<br />

75


✧<br />

Above: 1940 view of <strong>Austin</strong> looking<br />

northeast from Calcasieu Lumber Company.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Below, right: The Chamber of Commerce<br />

touted <strong>Austin</strong>’s post-war educational,<br />

industrial, and recreational opportunities.<br />

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

45th Street on the north, and only a small<br />

part of the city was south of the river.<br />

Highway 81, the route used to drive from San<br />

Antonio to Dallas, cut through <strong>Austin</strong> via<br />

Congress Avenue, Eleventh Street,<br />

Guadalupe, and Lamar Boulevard.<br />

Voters in 1946 approved a $940,000<br />

bond issue to fund development of an<br />

Interregional Highway, one of the suggestions<br />

made by the Chamber two years earlier.<br />

During the debate preceding the election,<br />

Mayor Miller said if <strong>Austin</strong>ites voted for the<br />

highway, the city would finally benefit from<br />

“the great thoroughfare prophesied by the<br />

people who founded <strong>Austin</strong> in 1839.” The<br />

highway would connect with Highway 81 in<br />

South <strong>Austin</strong> and extend up East Avenue to<br />

55th Street, part of the route of the old<br />

Chisholm Trail.<br />

While the city voted bonds to build a better<br />

highway, an older mode of transportation<br />

still serving <strong>Austin</strong> continued to fund its construction<br />

itself. The Missouri Pacific Lines<br />

“News Reel,” the company’s twice-a-month<br />

newsletter, reported on August 1, 1949 that<br />

its new passenger station in <strong>Austin</strong> would<br />

open on August 8. “Paid for,” the newsletter<br />

added, “entirely out of railroad funds…no<br />

subsidy from the government…. That’s the<br />

American Way.” The Katy and the Southern<br />

Pacific (the successor, through buyouts, of the<br />

old Houston and Texas Central) continued to<br />

use <strong>Austin</strong>’s aged passenger terminal at Third<br />

and Congress.<br />

By 1950, <strong>Austin</strong>’s population had finally<br />

broken the 100,000 mark, with 32,459 resi-<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

76


dents to spare. The city covered<br />

37.87 square miles, an increase of<br />

only 4.74 square miles in a decade.<br />

Enrollment at the University had<br />

passed the 20,000 mark. <strong>Austin</strong> now<br />

had three major hospitals, more than<br />

one million books in its state, university,<br />

and city libraries, eight<br />

hotels, five drive-in movies, five<br />

banks, four radio stations, and, as of<br />

Thanksgiving Day 1952, its first television<br />

station, KTBC.<br />

Though downtown <strong>Austin</strong><br />

remained the primary place to shop<br />

for more than another decade, stores<br />

and shops were beginning to establish<br />

branch locations on the fastgrowing<br />

edges of the city. Burnet<br />

Road, for years only a country lane,<br />

saw considerable commercial development<br />

during the 1950s. Shopping<br />

✧<br />

The Driskill Hotel's World War II-era<br />

breakfast menu featured sumptuous<br />

selections, with most items costing less<br />

than $1.25.<br />

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

NINE<br />

77


✧<br />

Above: Aerial view of <strong>Austin</strong> in the early 1950s.<br />

Below: Mayor “Tom” Miller at the October<br />

1960 opening of the <strong>Austin</strong> Public Library<br />

Howson Branch.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

centers developed on East Avenue, Lamar<br />

Boulevard, Exposition Boulevard and South<br />

Congress Avenue.<br />

One of the businesses moving to the suburbs<br />

was the Night Hawk restaurant chain,<br />

which opened the Frisco Shop on Burnet<br />

Road in 1952. Six years later, owner Harry<br />

Akin became the first <strong>Austin</strong> restaurateur<br />

to open his places of business<br />

to black customers. Racial integration<br />

came to <strong>Austin</strong> with relative quiet,<br />

at least compared with other cities in<br />

the south.<br />

The 1950s in <strong>Austin</strong> also saw the<br />

beginning of the Capitol Complex with<br />

the construction of the first major new<br />

state office building in two decades. A<br />

State Building Commission was created<br />

in 1954 to oversee construction of a<br />

new home for the Texas Supreme Court<br />

and develop a master plan for other<br />

state office buildings in the vicinity of<br />

the Capitol.<br />

The Supreme Court Building was<br />

dedicated in 1959 along with a building<br />

for the Texas Employment Commission<br />

and a third state office building named in<br />

honor of Sam Houston. All the buildings had<br />

granite facades to keep them architecturally<br />

compatible with the Capitol.<br />

By the end of the decade, planning was<br />

under way for a new Archives building, a<br />

facility that would get the state’s priceless historical<br />

records out of their makeshift home in<br />

a quonset hut at Camp Mabry. On Texas<br />

Independence Day in 1958, the Houston<br />

Chronicle reported that the State Library and<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Commission was recommending<br />

that the archives be placed in a $2.5 million<br />

replica of the old limestone Capitol, the only<br />

difference being the addition of two wings. If<br />

the story had run on April 1 instead of March<br />

2, most Texans would have assumed it to<br />

be an April Fool’s joke. The plan died a justified<br />

death, but by the spring of 1962, Texas<br />

finally had a permanent home for its<br />

records—a granite building that matched the<br />

Capitol and others in the growing governmental<br />

complex.<br />

On April 30, 1962, an era ended with the<br />

death of Tom Miller, the man who served as<br />

mayor (1933-49;1955-61) longer than anyone<br />

in the city’s history.<br />

Miller, the <strong>Austin</strong> American said in its lead<br />

editorial the day after the former mayor’s<br />

death, “leaves behind him one of the truly<br />

great records of public service which adorn<br />

the pages of Texas history.”<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

78


TOWARD THE 21ST CENTURY<br />

Sometimes history changes in a day. Most of the time, epochal transformations begin subtly,<br />

with little or no fanfare.<br />

When the first dam across the Colorado broke on April 7, 1900, <strong>Austin</strong>’s hopes for growth and<br />

prosperity in the early 20th Century washed downstream with the swirling floodwaters. Since the<br />

dam had been one of the largest structures of its type in the world, its failure was big news. What<br />

happened north of <strong>Austin</strong> nearly sixty-seven years later did not make bold headlines, but it marked<br />

the beginning of a new <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

On February 27, 1967, <strong>Austin</strong> Statesman page-one columnist Wray Weddell, a journalist on the<br />

city’s daily since the mid-1950s, had this short item near the bottom of that day’s column: “Without<br />

groundbreaking fanfare, IBM has started construction on its $4 million plant on FM 1325 north of<br />

Balcones Research Center.”<br />

For decades, <strong>Austin</strong> had looked to its river as its key to industrial development, but that longtime<br />

goal had remained elusive. Until the IBM plant went into operation, one of <strong>Austin</strong>’s biggest<br />

✧<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> boomed in the early 1980s as<br />

high-tech industries came to the city.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

TEN<br />

79


✧<br />

Right: IBM, shown in this aerial view,<br />

opened its <strong>Austin</strong> plant in 1967.<br />

Below, right: Aerial view in 1961, looking<br />

north from Eighth Street to the University<br />

of Texas, with Congress Avenue and the<br />

Capitol in the center.<br />

Opposite, top left: <strong>Austin</strong>’s first library<br />

building is now home of the <strong>Austin</strong> History<br />

Center.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Opposite, top right: Advertising brochure<br />

shows idealized image of suburban life in<br />

the early 1960s.<br />

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Opposite, bottom right: Dignitaries gather<br />

for the dedication of a new state office<br />

building adjacent to the 1857 Land Office<br />

building near the Capitol.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

80


industries was a business that made chili.<br />

What would transform <strong>Austin</strong>, however, was<br />

not the Colorado, but the spinoff effect of<br />

the enterprise described with the last three<br />

words of Weddell’s column item: Balcones<br />

Research Center.<br />

The conversion of the war-time magnesium<br />

plant into an off-campus research center<br />

for the University was an event that changed<br />

the city’s history as surely as Mirabeau B.<br />

Lamar’s 1838 buffalo hunt and his vision of a<br />

future capital. In retrospect, development of<br />

the Balcones Research Center stands in significance<br />

second only to the election that made<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> the permanent home of the university.<br />

Knowledge—not water, not charcoal from<br />

cedar trees, not limestone, not precious minerals<br />

in the hills, not railroads, not superhighways,<br />

not air travel—in the end proved to be<br />

the force that finally turned <strong>Austin</strong> into an<br />

industrial city.<br />

That concept began dawning on civic leaders<br />

and the Chamber of Commerce in the late<br />

1940s, but it was not until the nation’s space<br />

program began gaining altitude in the early<br />

1960s that research began to be seriously<br />

regarded as an avenue to industrial development<br />

sans smokestacks. In the summer of<br />

1963, the Chamber-supported <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Economic Development Council ran advertising<br />

in the Wall Street Journal touting <strong>Austin</strong> as<br />

“a fast growing community of R&D companies<br />

and space support manufacturers….<br />

Won’t you consider joining them?”<br />

The Balcones Research Center, the<br />

Statesman said on September 24, 1963, “is the<br />

site of numerous important government<br />

research projects, such as probing into space<br />

and studying possible techniques for landing<br />

CHAPTER<br />

TEN<br />

81


✧<br />

Right: The new Ausin Library building at<br />

8th and Guadalupe streets during the final<br />

stages of construction in 1979.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Below, left: Night view of <strong>Austin</strong>’s<br />

mid-1970s skyline.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Below, right: Hike and bike trails were<br />

developed along Town Lake in the 1970s.<br />

PHOTO BY MIKE COX.<br />

on the moon. From strategic metal [referring<br />

to the magnesium plant] to the stratosphere’s<br />

edge the chamber leads the way in helping to<br />

establish <strong>Austin</strong> as a research center.”<br />

The first tangible benefit to <strong>Austin</strong> from<br />

the Balcones Research Center had come in<br />

1955, when moonlighting work by scientists<br />

at the center evolved into the Texas Research<br />

Associates Corporation. In 1962, merging<br />

with another University-spawned group,<br />

Textran Corporation, the group became<br />

Tracor. Its specialty was acoustics and it soon<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

82


egan picking up major federal Defense<br />

Department contracts.<br />

The Chamber in 1966 hired someone to<br />

concentrate specifically on economic development,<br />

selling <strong>Austin</strong> to industry by touting<br />

its university and a term destined to become<br />

a major political buzzword: quality of life. It<br />

did not take long for this pitch to produce<br />

results. Late that year IBM announced it<br />

would build a plant in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Even after the groundbreaking at the IBM<br />

plant, the key word in <strong>Austin</strong>’s quest for<br />

industrial development was “research” not<br />

“computer.” And the term “high tech” had yet<br />

to enter the jargon. Research, however, was<br />

increasingly dependent on the computer.<br />

In 1958, the university opened its<br />

Computation Center with the purchase of a<br />

Control Data Corporation Model 1604.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> had entered the computer age. Little<br />

attention, however, was paid to this development.<br />

Eight years later, UT paid $6 million<br />

for its first super computer, a Control Data<br />

Corporation Model 6600.<br />

When the IBM plant began operation,<br />

however, the huge company was not yet<br />

involved in computers. The first <strong>Austin</strong>-produced<br />

IBM product was called a Selectric<br />

Composer, a machine used in offset printing.<br />

Still, the new plant had begun a slow chain<br />

reaction that in less than two decades would<br />

heat to near fusion point. Two IBM-related<br />

companies had moved to <strong>Austin</strong> and two<br />

more were planned by the summer of 1967.<br />

Earlier that year, columnist Weddell had<br />

noted that the Chamber was “answering<br />

inquiries from ‘half a dozen’ industrial firms<br />

best described as IBM ‘allies’.” The count of<br />

allied business coming to <strong>Austin</strong> because of<br />

IBM had reached nine by 1968.<br />

In 1969, the same year man landed on<br />

the moon, the microprocessor—a silicon<br />

✧<br />

Left: In the 1970s, demolition of 19th century<br />

houses, such as the 1872 Hunnicut house at<br />

405 W. Twelfth Street, became a political<br />

issue. This old home was razed in 1974.<br />

Below: The old fire station, <strong>Austin</strong> Hose<br />

Co. No. 6, on Guadalupe Street at 30th<br />

Street, was built to accommodate horsedrawn<br />

fire wagons. The building is now<br />

home to Ballet <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

PHOTOS BY MIKE COX.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

TEN<br />

83


✧<br />

Top, left: Some old <strong>Austin</strong> landmarks<br />

survived the wrecking balls of the 1970s and<br />

1980s, such as this Victorian mansion at<br />

Ninth and Lavaca streets.<br />

PHOTO BY MIKE COX.<br />

Right: <strong>Austin</strong>ites flock to festivals like bats<br />

in pursuit of bugs. This is the Old Pecan<br />

Street Festival on Sixth Street.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Below: The <strong>Austin</strong> music scene, personified<br />

by Willie Nelson, grew in the 1970s.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Bottom right: As <strong>Austin</strong> boomed, the old and<br />

the new were more sharply contrasted<br />

than ever before.<br />

PHOTO BY MIKE COX.<br />

thought, were for big business, government,<br />

and the space program. Researchers and<br />

aspiring entrepreneurs, however, were beginning<br />

to see big possibilities for small chips.<br />

In 1971, Texas Instruments, which had<br />

opened a plant in <strong>Austin</strong> two years earlier,<br />

manufactured a hand-held electronic calculator,<br />

a device that would soon make the venerable<br />

slide rule a curious antique. In 1972, the<br />

University joined ARPANet, a governmentfunded<br />

datalink between computers that<br />

would later become known as the Internet.<br />

Motorola, a company known for its twoway<br />

radios, arrived in 1974. Within a decade<br />

it and several start-up companies would be<br />

manufacturing microprocessor chips. By<br />

1985, Motorola had become <strong>Austin</strong>’s largest<br />

private employer.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>ites John and Robert Burns had purchip<br />

containing miniaturized integrated circuits—was<br />

invented. This chip, the Intel<br />

4004, marked the beginning of a technological<br />

revolution that would profoundly affect<br />

the world.<br />

Throughout the 1970s, however, the<br />

development of the capital city as a high tech<br />

center progressed slowly, with little attention<br />

on the part of the general public or the mainstream<br />

news media. A third of all <strong>Austin</strong><br />

workers were employed by government. IBM<br />

was still known as a company that made electric<br />

typewriters. Computers, most people<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

84


Also in 1983, <strong>Austin</strong> won a nationwide<br />

competition and was selected as the site of the<br />

country’s first high-tech consortium, the<br />

Microelectronics and Computer Technology<br />

Corporation (MCC).<br />

Supported by twelve major firms in the<br />

booming computer industry, MCC was hailed<br />

by civic leaders as a milestone in the city’s hischased<br />

a kit in 1975 and put together what is<br />

believed to have been the first personal computer<br />

in the city. The Burns brothers went on<br />

to start <strong>Austin</strong>’s first computer hardware firm.<br />

In 1981, IBM brought out a personal computer,<br />

a desktop machine that would soon<br />

put the company out of the electric typewriter<br />

business. Two years later, the first personal<br />

computer with a hard-disk drive was introduced<br />

by the company. That same year, 1983,<br />

Apple Computer put a device called a<br />

“mouse” on the market.<br />

✧<br />

Above: UT football teams won national<br />

championships in 1963 and 1969 under<br />

Coach Darrell K. Royal.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

Far left: Traffic flow has grown steadily on<br />

I-35, which only old-timers still call the<br />

“Interregional.”<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

Left: View of the inside of the Capitol dome.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

TEN<br />

85


✧<br />

The Lyndon Baines Johnson Library and<br />

Museum, constructed on the campus of<br />

The University of Texas, was completed<br />

on May 22, 1971.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

86<br />

tory, almost as important as the opening of<br />

the University.<br />

A year later, Michael Dell, a University<br />

dropout, started a company that soon was<br />

manufacturing IBM clones. Ten years later,<br />

having long since begun making his own<br />

product, Dell had become one of the richest<br />

men in America and his firm the <strong>Austin</strong> area’s<br />

second largest employer.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>’s research-oriented talent pool<br />

helped attract high-tech industry, but so did<br />

another kind of pool—Barton Springs and the<br />

attractive environment it would come to symbolize.<br />

As new residents began flowing into


the city like runoff after a three-inch rain, the<br />

city’s quality of life was the common explanation<br />

of <strong>Austin</strong>’s lure to outsiders.<br />

Ironically, the exponential growth <strong>Austin</strong><br />

first began experiencing in the 1970s set up<br />

what became one of the city’s fundamental<br />

local political issues—growth versus quality<br />

of life, a phrase that increasingly became the<br />

code term for no growth or controlled<br />

growth. Despite protests, the construction of<br />

new buildings generally took precedence over<br />

the preservation of any historic old homes or<br />

even older trees which happened to be in the<br />

proverbial path of progress. In time, however,<br />

even most of those pushing for growth found<br />

it politically expedient to pay at least nodding<br />

attention to controlled, environmentally, and<br />

culturally-sensitive growth.<br />

One of the best examples of <strong>Austin</strong>’s quality<br />

of life was the completion of a project talked<br />

about since at least the late 1930s—one more<br />

dam on the Colorado. Despite the series of<br />

Lower Colorado River Authority dams that created<br />

Lake <strong>Austin</strong> and a string of beautiful highland<br />

lakes above <strong>Austin</strong>, the Colorado below<br />

Tom Miller Dam still was just a river. While it<br />

no longer flooded without warning, it was not<br />

much to look at. Its banks continued in what<br />

passed for a natural state—urban neglect.<br />

The City of <strong>Austin</strong> built a dam across the<br />

river in 1960 at the rocky ford where the old<br />

Chisholm Trail once crossed. Fittingly, the<br />

structure was named Longhorn Dam. The<br />

name chosen for the new constant-level lake,<br />

which would provide cooling water for the<br />

city’s Holly Street electric plant in addition to<br />

✧<br />

Heavy traffic necessitated the doubledecking<br />

of I-35 in the 1970s, seen here<br />

under construction.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

TEN<br />

87


✧<br />

Above: By the late 1980s, air traffic at<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>’s Robert Mueller airport, seen here in<br />

an aerial view, had grown so large that<br />

plans were begun to build a new airport on<br />

the site of the former Bergstrom Air Force<br />

Base.<br />

Right: The National Wildflower Research<br />

Center opened on December 22, 1982,<br />

Lady Bird Johnson's 70th birthday.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

88<br />

improving the scenery downtown, was not so<br />

fitting. What to call the impoundment became<br />

a matter of controversy. Someone proposed<br />

Lake Tonkawa, but vocal critics claimed that<br />

the Tonkawas had not distinguished themselves<br />

as a culture. <strong>Austin</strong> judge Truman<br />

O’Quinn said the lake should be named in<br />

honor of Mirabeau B. Lamar. Other names,<br />

including Lake Longhorn, were suggested and<br />

debated. Two years after the lake filled, the<br />

city council opted for the generic Town Lake,<br />

non-offensive aside from its dullness.<br />

How the lake would be used was a matter<br />

of nearly as much contention as what it<br />

would be called. Motorboats were banned<br />

and the emphasis was placed on development<br />

of the lake as a park, not another place to ski.<br />

A couple of years after President Lyndon<br />

Johnson left office in 1969, Lady Bird<br />

Johnson, the former First Lady, made the<br />

beautification of Town Lake a major cause.<br />

Soon hike-and-bike trails lined its banks and<br />

moved into the city up Shoal Creek like<br />

climbing ivy. The planning term “green belt”<br />

entered the popular vernacular.<br />

As Town Lake got spruced up, <strong>Austin</strong>’s cultural<br />

landscape was changing, too. Sixth


Street, which had gone from being the city’s<br />

second most important business artery to a<br />

semi-seedy street lined with bars, pawnshops<br />

and a few die-hard oldtime businesses,<br />

became a trendy district sporting upscale<br />

restaurants, bars, and walk-up apartments.<br />

One of the attractions was <strong>Austin</strong>’s emerging<br />

music scene, a distinctive blend of rock and<br />

country from longhairs in cowboy hats.<br />

Writers began referring to the “<strong>Austin</strong> sound.”<br />

Long time country-western singer and songwriter<br />

Willie Nelson reinvented himself and<br />

✧<br />

Above: Fire on February 6, 1983 destroyed<br />

the apartment of Lt. Gov. William P.<br />

Hobby, Jr. in the east wing of the Capitol.<br />

Left: Numerous large office buildings<br />

sprouted south of the Capitol in the 1980s.<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

TEN<br />

89


✧<br />

Bergstrom Air Force Base. Aerial shot of the<br />

base built in 1942 on a large expanse of cotton<br />

fields and much of the original community of<br />

Del Valle. The closure of the base gave the city<br />

the opportunity for a new airport location.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

90<br />

became an international hit star. Artist Eddie<br />

Wilson went from mural painting to more<br />

involved entrepreneurial pursuits, opening<br />

his Armadillo World Headquarters, a popular<br />

music venue with a food menu.<br />

President Richard Nixon came to <strong>Austin</strong> on<br />

May 22, 1971 for the dedication of the $14<br />

million Lyndon Baines Johnson Presidential<br />

Library and Museum on the eastern edge of the<br />

University campus. So did thousands of young<br />

people protesting the ongoing involvement of<br />

the U.S. in Vietnam, but <strong>Austin</strong> Police, Texas<br />

Department of Public Safety Troopers, and<br />

Texas Rangers held the angry crowd in check.<br />

The same year, construction began on a<br />

long discussed and often controversial West<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> expressway called MoPac because it<br />

alternately paralleled or straddled the<br />

Missouri-Pacific Railroad right-of-way.<br />

Neighborhood groups battled various proposed<br />

exits and won some of their fights,<br />

leaving the freeway harder to get on or off of<br />

in some parts of the city.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> grew from a population of 251,808<br />

in 1970 to 345,890 people a decade later.<br />

Slowed only briefly by the collapse of the savings<br />

and loan industry and the 1985 bottoming<br />

out of the oil market in Texas, <strong>Austin</strong> really<br />

began booming. The city started developing a<br />

skyline, its once distinctive Capitol dome and<br />

University Tower overshadowed by other, taller<br />

buildings. Some wag suggested that the official<br />

city bird should be the construction crane.<br />

Thousands of people moved to <strong>Austin</strong> to<br />

take part in its laid-back lifestyle, but they<br />

found that living in a boom town was not<br />

without problems. Traffic grew heavier each<br />

year, forcing the double-decking of a long<br />

stretch of I-35 (only old-timers called it the<br />

Interregional any more) through the city. The<br />

City Council annexed new territory like a<br />

hungry amoeba.


Thanks to the dams along the Colorado,<br />

however, one problem most <strong>Austin</strong>ites did<br />

not worry about was flooding. In fact, many<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>ites had never seen a major flood on<br />

the order of the mile-wide rises in the mid-<br />

1930s. But on Memorial Day 1981, a torrential<br />

ten-inch rain falling in only two hours on<br />

the Shoal Creek watershed sent the West<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> creek on a devastating rampage.<br />

Thirteen people, more than any of <strong>Austin</strong>’s<br />

Colorado River floods ever claimed, died in<br />

the flash flood that Sunday night. Damage<br />

was estimated at $30 to $35 million.<br />

On another Sunday two years later, another<br />

disaster threatened <strong>Austin</strong>. Before dawn on<br />

February 6, 1983, fire broke out in the<br />

Capitol apartment of then Lieutenant<br />

Governor Bill Hobby and quickly spread<br />

through the east wing of the city’s landmark<br />

granite statehouse. The first fire company<br />

arrived to see black smoke pouring from the<br />

historic building and called for more help.<br />

History nearly repeated itself. The fire,<br />

which started in a television set, spread through<br />

the crawl space between floors, an area hard to<br />

get water on. At one point, acting Fire Chief<br />

Brady Pool warned Governor Mark White and<br />

Mayor Carol Keeton McClellan, who had<br />

joined hundreds of others gathered outside the<br />

building, that the fire might be beyond control.<br />

Pool suggested that state officials begin emptying<br />

the building of everything they could.<br />

Pool’s firefighters finally prevailed and<br />

brought the fire under control. Damage was<br />

extensive, but not severe enough to threaten<br />

the structural integrity of the massive building.<br />

Just as the 1881 Capitol fire had made a<br />

new building necessary a century before, the<br />

1983 fire became the catalyst for the most<br />

extensive renovation in the Capitol’s history.<br />

While they were at it, the Legislature also<br />

✧<br />

Above: Another 19th century downtown<br />

structure, at the southeast corner of Tenth<br />

and Guadalupe streets, that did not survive<br />

the era of rapid growth in the last quarter<br />

of the 20th century.<br />

Left: The 1885 Henry Hirshfeld mansion,<br />

at 303 W. Ninth Street, survived and was<br />

restored by Texas A&M University for use<br />

as an <strong>Austin</strong> office.<br />

PHOTOS BY MIKE COX.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

TEN<br />

91


✧<br />

This Civil War-era house, built<br />

at 115 W. Eighth Street by attorney<br />

William Alexander, was torn down in 1974.<br />

PHOTO BY MIKE COX.<br />

Opposite, top: Aerial view of downtown<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> before the beautification of Town<br />

Lake.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

92<br />

approved construction of an underground<br />

extension. Ground was broken on April 26,<br />

1990. Less than three years later, the extension<br />

opened to the public. The $200 million project<br />

was formally dedicated on April 21, 1995.<br />

While planning for the Capitol cleanup<br />

and expansion had been under way, <strong>Austin</strong><br />

replicated its successful wooing of MCC with<br />

the landing in 1988 of Sematech, a semiconductor<br />

research consortium with a $250 million<br />

annual budget. <strong>Austin</strong> had competed<br />

with 135 cities across the nation for the high<br />

tech prize.<br />

In 1990, the census showed <strong>Austin</strong> had<br />

465,622 residents. Five years later, the city<br />

passed the half million mark and the <strong>Austin</strong><br />

MSA (Metropolitan Statistical Area) exceeded<br />

one million in population. By 1996, <strong>Austin</strong><br />

had surpassed Seattle in population and was<br />

the forty-third largest metropolitan area in<br />

the nation.<br />

As the growth of <strong>Austin</strong> took off, so did<br />

the number of passengers arriving and<br />

departing from <strong>Austin</strong>’s Robert Mueller<br />

Municipal Airport. The $1.3 million terminal,<br />

which won its designers a “Progressive<br />

Architecture” award, opened in 1961 and<br />

had been expanded over the years to accommodate<br />

sixteen gates. With more than one<br />

million passengers passing through the airport<br />

each year, the facility had come a long<br />

way since the early days of aviation in the<br />

city, when the manager of the airport had to<br />

spread a white canvas wagon sheet on the<br />

ground outside the original wooden terminal<br />

to signal an approaching commercial aircraft<br />

that someone in <strong>Austin</strong> had bought an airplane<br />

ticket.<br />

Realizing <strong>Austin</strong> needed a new, bigger airport,<br />

city planners at first focused on a site<br />

near Manor. Voters in 1987 endorsed a $728<br />

million bond issue to fund a new facility.<br />

Land speculation around Manor was almost<br />

as intense as it had been when Edwin Waller<br />

first laid out <strong>Austin</strong> in 1839. But Manor’s<br />

scheduled flight into a prosperous new century<br />

was canceled with the end of the Cold<br />

War and the down-sizing of the U.S. military.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>’s half-century old Air Force Base<br />

found itself on the targeting radar of a cutback<br />

minded Congress in 1990. During<br />

Lyndon Johnson’s presidency, when the blueand-white<br />

Boeing 707 called Air Force One<br />

was a frequent sight at the air base,<br />

Bergstrom got world-wide attention. In<br />

1967, no one was particularly surprised<br />

when the Pentagon announced that<br />

Bergstrom would become the headquarters of<br />

the 12th Air Force. All Tactical Air Command<br />

operations west of the Mississippi would be<br />

directed from the two-story $2.7 million<br />

doughnut-shaped headquarters building that


went up at the base. With nearly $50 million<br />

invested in buildings and infrastructure at<br />

Bergstrom, <strong>Austin</strong>’s business and governmental<br />

leaders assumed the base would be a part<br />

of <strong>Austin</strong> and its economy forever. “The<br />

choice of the base as the site for the 12th<br />

headquarters assures that Bergstrom will<br />

remain active,” they had confidently reported<br />

on October 17, 1968.<br />

Despite the best efforts of local, state and<br />

national politicians, Congress in June 1991<br />

ordered the base closed. <strong>Austin</strong> city officials<br />

began planning to convert the base, which covered<br />

six square miles and had a 12,250-foot<br />

runway, into a new municipal airport. The long<br />

runway was left over from Bergstrom’s days as<br />

a home for B-52 bombers during its time as a<br />

Strategic Air Command facility.<br />

Federal funding was secured with major<br />

help from U.S. Congressman Jake Pickle, and<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> voters in 1994 approved a $400 million<br />

bond issue to pay for the city’s share of<br />

the airport’s cost. Construction of the<br />

500,000-square foot, twenty-gate terminal<br />

began on March 6, 1995. Cargo planes started<br />

using the new airport in the summer of 1997<br />

and passenger flights were expected to move<br />

from the old airport to the new Bergstrom<br />

International Airport in the spring of 1999.<br />

The last time <strong>Austin</strong> was at the threshold<br />

of a new century, its future looked promising.<br />

Then its dam broke and optimism dried<br />

up faster than the muddy river bottom that<br />

had been the city’s world-class lake and<br />

power source. The optimism eventually<br />

returned, and so, in time, did <strong>Austin</strong>’s lake.<br />

But rows of smokestacks never sprouted<br />

along the banks of its river and creeks. Later,<br />

a Chamber of Commerce report—produced<br />

as <strong>Austin</strong> first began seeking research-based<br />

industry—pondered what lay ahead for the<br />

city. Its conclusion is no less valid today than<br />

it was then: “The future—It’s as bright as we<br />

want to make it.”<br />

✧<br />

Below: Portrait of U.S. Congressman<br />

J. J. “Jake” Pickle.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

TEN<br />

93


SHARING THE HERITAGE<br />

historic profiles of businesses<br />

and organizations that have contributed<br />

to the development and economic base<br />

of <strong>Austin</strong><br />

PATRONS<br />

Centex Materials, Inc.<br />

Williams<br />

Communications, Inc.<br />

FRIENDS<br />

American Bank<br />

of Commerce<br />

Chase Bank of Texas<br />

Texas Municipal<br />

Retirement System<br />

The Whitley Company<br />

POSTCARDS COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.


BUILDING A GREATER AUSTIN<br />

98 Temple-Inland Financial Services, Inc.<br />

100 Steiner Ranch<br />

102 Murfree Engineering Company, Inc.<br />

103 PageSoutherlandPage<br />

104 Faulkner Construction Company<br />

105 KLW, Inc.<br />

106 Macias & Associates, Inc.<br />

107 Harutunian Engineering, Incorporated<br />

POSTCARDS COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.


TEMPLE-INLAND<br />

FINANCIAL<br />

SERVICES, INC.<br />

✧<br />

Above: With more than 1,200 employees,<br />

Temple-Inland Financial Services is one of<br />

the largest employers in the <strong>Austin</strong> area.<br />

Below: 1300 South MoPac is headquarters<br />

for the company’s thriving banking,<br />

mortgage lending, insurance, and land<br />

development businesses.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

98<br />

Temple-Inland Financial Services, Inc.,<br />

one of the largest financial services companies<br />

based in Texas, traces its roots to the<br />

piney woods of the eastern part of the Lone<br />

Star State.<br />

The company’s history begins in the 1890s<br />

with the founding of its parent company,<br />

Southern Pine Lumber Company, by T.L.L.<br />

Temple. Instead of following the “cut-out and<br />

get-out” logging philosophy of the time, Mr.<br />

Temple and his descendants visualized a company<br />

that could further capitalize on its forest<br />

resources. With Americans beginning to<br />

migrate from city confines to suburban neighborhoods,<br />

the company wisely diversified by<br />

turning its forest resources not only into lumber<br />

but also into building materials such as<br />

fiberboard, particleboard and plywood.<br />

During the mid-1950s, Lumbermen’s<br />

Investment Corporation<br />

was created to encourage<br />

homebuilding and to help<br />

people finance new houses.<br />

Southern Pine Lumber<br />

Company was renamed<br />

Temple Industries, and the<br />

“vertically integrated” forest<br />

products giant expanded<br />

into neighboring Arkansas,<br />

then Alabama and Georgia.<br />

The company’s success<br />

was further expanded when<br />

Temple Industries merged<br />

with communications conglomerate,<br />

Time, Inc., in<br />

1973. A decade later, when Time decided to<br />

focus solely on its media properties, Temple<br />

and Time’s Inland Container Corporation<br />

were combined and spun-off to the public as<br />

Temple-Inland, Inc.<br />

Temple Inland’s financial services expanded<br />

further with the acquisition of Guaranty<br />

Federal Bank in 1988. Even today, a century<br />

after its parent’s founding, the <strong>Austin</strong>-based<br />

company maintains ties to its forest industry<br />

heritage while engaged in banking, singlefamily<br />

home mortgages, insurance products<br />

and land development across the nation.<br />

Today, Temple-Inland is one of the nation’s<br />

largest producers of corrugated packaging,<br />

paper products, building materials and financial<br />

services with annual revenues exceeding<br />

$2.6 billion. Its subsidiary companies are<br />

located throughout North America, Canada,<br />

Mexico, Argentina and Chile. Temple-Inland<br />

controls approximately 2.2 million acres of<br />

forest land in four Southern states and is the<br />

largest corporate landowner in Texas.<br />

The financial services group started in<br />

1954 as an outgrowth of an association of<br />

lumber dealers based in <strong>Austin</strong> to lobby the<br />

Texas Legislature. Out of the association,<br />

Arthur Temple and other lumber dealers created<br />

Lumbermen’s Investment Corporation to<br />

finance homebuilding as a means to sell more<br />

lumber. By 1960, Temple had bought out the<br />

other dealers and began expanding the company’s<br />

financial services into banking, single<br />

family home mortgages and insurance. Today,<br />

Temple-Inland Financial Services consists of


Guaranty Federal Bank, Temple-Inland<br />

Mortgage Corporation, and Timberline<br />

Insurance Managers, as well as Lumbermen’s<br />

Investment Corporation.<br />

Guaranty Federal Bank is one of the state’s<br />

largest financial institutions owned by a<br />

Texas-based company. With $11 billion in<br />

assets and $7 billion in deposits, Guaranty<br />

has more than 140 banking centers throughout<br />

the state, with concentrations in <strong>Austin</strong>,<br />

Dallas/Fort Worth, Houston and San Antonio.<br />

In 1997, Guaranty acquired Stockton Savings<br />

Bank, giving it a major presence in the fastgrowing<br />

San Joaquin Valley in California.<br />

Guaranty is recognized nationally as one of<br />

the largest construction lenders to the commercial<br />

and residential real estate industry.<br />

The bank finances builders of apartments,<br />

single family homes, senior citizen housing,<br />

office, industrial, retail and other income-producing<br />

properties from coast to coast.<br />

Additionally, Guaranty’s mortgage finance<br />

group is one of the largest lenders to the<br />

mortgage banking industry in the country.<br />

Temple-Inland Mortgage Corporation is a<br />

major provider of single-family home mortgages.<br />

Servicing more than 250,000 homebuyers<br />

in all 50 states makes the company<br />

among the nation’s largest. With the acquisition<br />

of Western Cities Mortgage Company of<br />

California in 1996 and Knutson Mortgage in<br />

Minnesota in 1997, Temple-Inland’s total servicing<br />

portfolio grew to more than $26 billion.<br />

Timberline Insurance Managers, Inc., is<br />

the second largest insurance agency in Texas<br />

and ranks in the top 1% nationally. The company<br />

provides a full range of insurance products,<br />

including personal and commercial<br />

lines, annuities, life and health insurance, and<br />

risk advisory services.<br />

Today, Lumbermen’s Investment, from<br />

which the financial services group grew, concentrates<br />

on the development and sale of residential<br />

subdivisions and other income-producing<br />

properties. In <strong>Austin</strong>, the company<br />

was behind the development of the Westgate<br />

Building and the Radisson Hotel, as well as<br />

the Onion Creek, Buttercup Creek, Village at<br />

Western Oaks and Anderson Mill residential<br />

subdivisions. In addition to other Texas properties,<br />

Lumbermen’s has expanded its opera-<br />

tions to Colorado, Florida, Arizona, Georgia,<br />

Missouri, Tennessee and California.<br />

Temple-Inland Financial Services, with<br />

more than 1,200 employees, is one of the<br />

largest local employers. Its headquarters on<br />

MoPac Expressway, built in 1995, was the<br />

first to meet the city’s strict S.O.S. guidelines<br />

designed to protect the Barton Creek watershed.<br />

The facility is being doubled in size to<br />

accommodate the company’s growth.<br />

“Temple-Inland Financial Services is a people<br />

company. We touch people every day with<br />

what we do,” states Kenny Jastrow, Chairman<br />

and CEO. “Together with our parent company,<br />

we grow the trees, make the lumber,<br />

develop homesites, finance the builders, provide<br />

mortgages, insure homes and families,<br />

and provide places to bank,” he says. “We call<br />

it ‘From Seeds to Deeds.’”<br />

✧<br />

Above: Temple-Inland Financial Services<br />

land development division, Lumbermen’s<br />

Investment Corporation, is one of the largest<br />

developers of single-family neighborhoods in<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, while Temple-Inland Mortgage<br />

Corporation makes thousands of singlefamily<br />

loans each year.<br />

Below: Temple-Inland’s nationally famous<br />

Onion Creek Golf Course will be the host<br />

site for a 1999 L.P.G.A. event…the first in<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | BUILDING A GREATER AUSTIN<br />

99


STEINER<br />

RANCH<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Steiners prepare for rodeo.<br />

Below: The lakefront with boat docks.<br />

Many places lay claim to being God’s<br />

Country—not a few of them in Texas—giving<br />

rise to the notion that the same itinerant publicist<br />

worked for a lot of chambers of commerce.<br />

The folks at Steiner Ranch, those lucky and<br />

smart enough to live here, and the developers,<br />

don’t subscribe to that kind of hyperbole.<br />

They let the extravagance of nature speak<br />

for them, which it does with eloquence.<br />

It speaks of morning- misted hollows and<br />

the throaty chuckle of nesting quail. The hush<br />

of a sun-dappled trail broken by a rustling in<br />

the undergrowth; a parade of wild turkeys<br />

making their stately way home, oblivious to<br />

the cathedral of oaks and the honeyed spice<br />

of blooming mountain laurel. A deer barks.<br />

The solitary hiker slows, knows that just over<br />

there, yes, the same as yesterday, three of<br />

them, the youngsters learning to browse, the<br />

doe alert but unafraid.<br />

A freshet of breeze off the lake dances over<br />

and down the arroyos, showing its alchemic<br />

powers as it persuades knee-high sweetgrass to<br />

show its colors—now green-gold, now pewter.<br />

Off in the distance a new sound, faint and<br />

drifting in and out. A radio perhaps, playing a<br />

medley of old cowboy ballads in memory of a<br />

couple of authentic Saturday matinee heroes.<br />

You see, Gene Autry once passed this way<br />

and just the other day, he passed on to greener<br />

pastures. Earlier this year, another singing<br />

cowboy, Roy Rogers may also have taken one<br />

last ride through Steiner Ranch. He and Dale<br />

Evans and Gene visited here a few decades<br />

ago when the land was still in the hands of<br />

T.C. “Buck” Steiner, the last of four generations<br />

of the family to work this stunningly<br />

beautiful Hill Country spread.<br />

“Buck” was a rodeo livestock contractor, a<br />

member of the Cowboy Hall of Fame, whose<br />

ill-tempered critters once made life either<br />

painful or rewarding for cowboys from<br />

Crockett to Calgary.<br />

So if you happen on a fragment of dessicated<br />

leather girdling a Mesquite trunk, or<br />

kick a stone aside to reveal a pitted, nickelsilver<br />

concho, it’s perfectly o.k. to let a fanciful<br />

notion take hold for a spell.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

100


Imagination is a wondrous thing, manifesting<br />

itself in countless ways through different<br />

people; the muse of children, artists and<br />

inventors, a gifted architect or engineer, the<br />

speaker whose insights rock old beliefs.<br />

Imagine the individual and collective exercise<br />

of imagination, foresight and flexibility it<br />

took to carve out today’s version of Steiner<br />

Ranch and we gain a new appreciation for the<br />

validity of changes that yield multi-facted<br />

people-oriented benefits.<br />

Once allowed to languish and since<br />

acquired from earlier owners, Steiner Ranch<br />

has quickly regained its deserved status as the<br />

premiere community of its type and dimensions<br />

in this region.<br />

Gerald Kucera is the president and managing<br />

partner of MK Development, the day-today<br />

asset management entity for Steiner<br />

Ranch owners, T.H.L. Ranch, Ltd. Mr. Kucera<br />

is the general partner of THL and has been a<br />

respected real estate financier and developer<br />

here since 1976.<br />

The broader vision of Kucera and the MK<br />

Development team—James Plasek, Robert<br />

Long, Leroy Kraatz, and Frank Oberlin—is<br />

best expressed in their core goal: to make<br />

Steiner Ranch the best place for families to<br />

live in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

To that end, the developers are keeping<br />

faith with a master plan for this “land<br />

between the lakes” that prioritizes the natural,<br />

outdoors lifestyle the Hill Country promotes.<br />

It also respects the sense of social responsibility<br />

that typifies <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Miles of linked hiking and biking trails,<br />

vast stretches of greenbelt, parks and playing<br />

fields, and fully four miles of Lake <strong>Austin</strong><br />

shoreline are woven into a tapestry of individual<br />

neighborhoods.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>’s better builders, carefully selected<br />

for their skills and integrity, are providing an<br />

array of home selections in price tiers ranging<br />

from entry level to executive.<br />

Architectural covenants ensure that a balanced<br />

townscape is achieved and homeowner<br />

association bylaws provide for maintenance<br />

standards and common areas upkeep.<br />

While Steiner Ranch is a mixed-use development,<br />

the characteristics of the land provide<br />

natural barriers so that future commercial<br />

entities will blend unobtrusively,<br />

rather than encroach upon residential<br />

neighborhoods.<br />

Steiner Ranch is the embodiment<br />

of the reasons more and more discerning<br />

families prefer the master-planned<br />

community.<br />

Homeowners here enjoy a comparatively<br />

low tax rate. Thoughtful<br />

amenities are everywhere and plentiful,<br />

including a Junior Olympic<br />

pool, lighted tennis courts, patios and<br />

gazebos, even a private lake club<br />

for boaters.<br />

Leander Independent School District is<br />

one of the most progressive in the state and<br />

Steiner Ranch Elementary has already earned<br />

an “exemplary” rating from the state.<br />

Situated as it is on RM 620 between<br />

RM 2222 and Mansfield dam, Steiner Ranch<br />

is convenient to a significant number of<br />

city’s major employers, churches, restaurants<br />

and shopping.<br />

But the best of Steiner Ranch living centers<br />

on the subtle sensory events that seemingly<br />

never end. Things like the tang of<br />

woodsmoke on a crisp autumn night are fairly<br />

obvious; less apparent perhaps, but more<br />

important is the sense of community Steiner<br />

Ranch evokes...like the fond embrace of an<br />

old friend.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Steiner Ranch offers amenities,<br />

including a Junior Olympic-sized pool, that<br />

are attractive to families with children.<br />

Below: Deer roaming the property of<br />

Steiner Ranch.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | BUILDING A GREATER AUSTIN<br />

101


✧<br />

Above: (from left to right) Jerry Fults,<br />

President of Capital Surveying, David<br />

Malish, Vice President of Murfee<br />

Engineering, and George Murfee, President<br />

of Murfee Engineering. The GPS satellite<br />

surveying equipment currently being utilized<br />

by Capital Surveying is in the foreground.<br />

Below: Circle C Ranch, a 4,500-acre master<br />

planned community.<br />

MURFEE<br />

ENGINEERING<br />

COMPANY, INC.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

102<br />

Few companies have left their<br />

mark on the anatomy of presentday<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> as much as Murfee<br />

Engineering. One of the largest<br />

consulting engineering companies<br />

in Central Texas, Murfee<br />

Engineering has supported the<br />

growth of <strong>Austin</strong> for 20 years with<br />

environmental engineering,<br />

design, and surveying services for<br />

a diverse group of public and private-sector<br />

clients, whose projects<br />

have included subdivisions, special<br />

districts, roads and highways,<br />

as well as schools and churches.<br />

Specialists in municipal utility<br />

districts, regional water and<br />

wastewater planning, and<br />

stormwater management, the private,<br />

locally owned company has<br />

designed the underpinnings of<br />

some of the largest residential,<br />

commercial, and transportation<br />

projects in the region.<br />

George Murfee launched his<br />

company in 1978 as an independent<br />

consulting engineer just before a period of<br />

tremendous growth in <strong>Austin</strong>. He expanded<br />

his one-man firm in 1982 by hiring a staff to<br />

undertake the design and planning of water<br />

and wastewater infrastructure for a pioneering<br />

new 1,500-acre residential community,<br />

Rob Roy, in the hills west of <strong>Austin</strong>. The company<br />

incorporated in 1983, the same year<br />

Murfee created an affiliate, Capital Surveying<br />

Company, Inc. Over the next several years,<br />

the two companies undertook environmental<br />

planning for Circle C Ranch, a 4,500-acre<br />

master planned community also on the outskirts<br />

of the city.<br />

“Land development was the driving engine<br />

of the company,” says Murfee.<br />

In 1987, he pioneered the use of the U.S.<br />

Department of Defense’s Global Positioning<br />

Satellite (GPS) network in the company’s surveying<br />

jobs, which attracted such clients as<br />

the Texas Department of Transportation,<br />

Lower Colorado River Authority, and City of<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>. “We were probably the first company<br />

in <strong>Austin</strong> to use satellite surveying,” says<br />

Murfee. “We were third in the state at that<br />

time.” The company weathered an economic<br />

downturn that began that year by doing engineering<br />

and surveying work on major road<br />

improvements and key capital projects in the<br />

southwest quadrant of Travis County that<br />

included the veloway at Circle C, the 10-mile<br />

Slaughter Lane expansion, the southern<br />

extension of MoPac (Loop 1), and State<br />

Highway 45.<br />

Expertise with large-scale development<br />

projects has led the company into utility<br />

engineering in other fast-growing areas. “This<br />

is the growth end of the industry right now,”<br />

says Murfee. In 1995, the company became<br />

involved in utility planning for El Paso’s east<br />

side. One year later it undertook the infrastructure<br />

design work for New Mexico’s first<br />

and only border crossing into Mexico. The<br />

company also is involved in the design of<br />

municipal utility districts for a 1,000-acre<br />

multi-use development in Brownsville.<br />

“We have an advantage in that the state<br />

regulatory agencies are here in <strong>Austin</strong>,” says<br />

Murfee. “That is part of the reason we<br />

expanded in this area.”


Every morning on the Today Show, weatherman<br />

Willard Scott celebrates the birthdays<br />

of America’s centenarians. It’s left for the<br />

nation’s companies who achieve that milestone<br />

to trumpet their own longevity; many<br />

do so, often at great expense.<br />

PageSoutherlandPage is Texas’ most enduring<br />

and prolific architectural practice, yet the firm<br />

chooses to mark their 1898-1998 anniversary<br />

with barely a nod to an eventful past. The gesture<br />

is respectful—a brochure that plays back and<br />

forth between yesterday and now—but at midyear<br />

it was overdue to the printer. This is not surprising,<br />

however, as PageSoutherlandPage has<br />

always been more concerned with the future<br />

rather than the past.<br />

The 1904 World’s Fair celebrated the industrial<br />

revolution; its visionary theme was exemplified<br />

in the Texas Pavilion. It was the first public architecture<br />

project for founding partners Charles<br />

Henry, Jr. and Louis Charles Page, and it came to<br />

life just five years after the brothers opened shop<br />

as Page Brothers Architects in downtown <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

The brothers were also designers of the Beaux-<br />

Arts Littlefield Building at 6th Street and<br />

Congress, another early success, along with The<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> National Bank, securing their reputation in<br />

the commercial arena.<br />

Many schools and courthouses, the Travis<br />

County Courthouse being one of dozens of examples,<br />

bear the Page Brothers imprimatur, and their<br />

heritage endures at PageSoutherlandPage. Today,<br />

the company’s school portfolio includes learning<br />

places that are engaging, flexible, economical, and<br />

support student success.<br />

Yesterday’s notable landmarks include the<br />

U.S. Courthouse, the <strong>Austin</strong> Municipal Building,<br />

Palmer Auditorium, and the University of Texas<br />

Art Museum. All were designed during the period<br />

1930-1960.<br />

The firm’s present name derives from the period<br />

of 1937-38 when Louis Southerland and Louis<br />

Page, Jr. joined forces. A year later, the pair are<br />

joined by Page’s brother, George. The first of their<br />

early triumphs was to be the downtown Tribune<br />

Building, and the firms first venture into healthcare<br />

design, the original Brackenridge Hospital.<br />

Today, PageSoutherlandPage is a world leader in<br />

that highly specialized architectural genre.<br />

The firm is also recognized as a world leader<br />

in the design of technology-intensive facilities,<br />

complex research and fabrication campuses,<br />

and medical laboratories, drawing on an integrated<br />

disciplinary heritage begun in 1942<br />

when PageSoutherlandPage became one of the<br />

nation’s first to merge architecture and engineering<br />

into one organization.<br />

Today, PageSoutherlandPage has a staff of<br />

more than 200 design professionals spanning<br />

the disciplines of architecture, engineering,<br />

interior design, and strategic planning. Full<br />

service offices are located in <strong>Austin</strong>, Dallas,<br />

Houston, and Washington, D.C., with international<br />

affiliate branches in Rome and Singapore.<br />

Consistently ranked among the top 500<br />

design firms in the nation, PageSoutherlandPage<br />

occupies 22nd place in size nationally and is the<br />

third largest design firm based in Texas.<br />

As to the future, one need only look at two of<br />

the firm’s recent commissions, the new $50 million<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Convention Center and the new $100<br />

million Barbara Jordan passenger terminal at<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>-Bergstrom International Airport.<br />

PAGESOUTHERLANDPAGE<br />

✧<br />

Above: The <strong>Austin</strong> Convention Center.<br />

Below: The Littlefield Building in <strong>Austin</strong>,<br />

1910.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | BUILDING A GREATER AUSTIN<br />

103


FAULKNER<br />

CONSTRUCTION<br />

COMPANY<br />

✧<br />

Top: <strong>Austin</strong> Public Library,<br />

Main Branch (1978).<br />

Middle: Riverbend Church’s auditorium<br />

completed in 1998 .<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

104<br />

After 36 years in business<br />

Faulkner Construction Company is<br />

today one of the most successful<br />

commercial construction companies<br />

in Texas and the largest locally owned<br />

commercial builder in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Consistently recognized by the<br />

industry as one of the top 400 contractors<br />

in the United States, it provides<br />

general contracting, construction<br />

management, and design/build<br />

services to a distinguished list of<br />

clients that reads like a Who’s Who<br />

in Texas business. In the hightechnology<br />

arena, Faulkner has<br />

built facilities for Advanced Micro<br />

Devices, Applied Materials, Motorola,<br />

Samsung, and others. But the company<br />

has always been a strong player<br />

in local Central Texas market<br />

for schools, hospitals, churches,<br />

and industrial facilities, as well as<br />

commercial office buildings and retail<br />

developments, and its client list in<br />

these venues is equally impressive.<br />

The company was founded in 1962 by<br />

Royce Faulkner, who continues to play an<br />

active role in its management and direction as<br />

Chairman of the Board of Directors. Early<br />

successes included contracts for moderatesized<br />

projects for the University of Texas and<br />

for private clients in and around <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Notable among these was The Brown Schools’<br />

Rehabilitation Center, for which Faulkner<br />

built facilities in <strong>Austin</strong> and San Marcos. As<br />

the semiconductor industry began its rise in<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, Faulkner developed the expertise and<br />

knowledge necessary to become a major competitor<br />

in this market. By 1979, the company<br />

had projects under way for Advanced Micro<br />

Devices and Motorola, two of <strong>Austin</strong>’s hightech<br />

pioneers.<br />

Throughout the 1980s, Faulkner continued<br />

to expand its services geographically and to<br />

diversify its skills for emerging and developing<br />

technologies. With projects as far-flung as El<br />

Paso, McAllen, Northeast Texas, Oklahoma,<br />

Arkansas, and Mexico, the company now<br />

maintains communications and operating procedures<br />

utilizing the latest in automated business<br />

technologies. Faulkner employees are<br />

encouraged to continue their education in<br />

changing business systems and technologies,<br />

and the company provides both in-house and<br />

outsource training on a multitude of subjects.<br />

Civic involvement is also valued highly by the<br />

company’s management. Faulkner employees<br />

can be found on many professional and nonprofit<br />

boards of directors, as well as on city<br />

boards and commissions.<br />

With annual revenues that place it in the<br />

top tier of the commercial construction industry,<br />

Faulkner’s recent job list has included<br />

Motorola’s BAT-1 Facility, Riverbend Church’s<br />

new 2,500-seat auditorium, Samsung’s U-Fab<br />

clean room manufacturing space, two new elementary<br />

schools for <strong>Austin</strong> Independent<br />

School District, and the Village at Westlake<br />

Shopping Center. Projects currently under<br />

construction or under contract include the<br />

Heart Hospital of <strong>Austin</strong>, AISD’s new Charles<br />

Akins High School in South <strong>Austin</strong>, a hospital<br />

expansion in Greenville, Texas, a movie theater<br />

complex in Mission, ongoing work at<br />

Motorola and Applied Materials, and major<br />

new office projects for The Kucera Company<br />

and Lincoln Property Company.


The savings and loan debacle was on full<br />

boil. Many of the state’s premier commercial<br />

real estate players, and those in attendance,<br />

architects and engineers, were filing for whatever<br />

chapter of the U.S. Bankruptcy code best<br />

covered their respective situations. Hapless<br />

professionals from every discipline had ‘tax<br />

sheltered’ themselves into grave circumstances.<br />

The Texas economy, from the oil patch to<br />

agriculture was in retreat, back to the ice ages.<br />

This was the spring of 1986, when any<br />

sane businessperson worthy of the name was<br />

staying home in bed with the electric blanket<br />

turned up to 9.<br />

Then along comes Ms. Rosoline Craig, P.E.,<br />

who, admitting to “not knowing any better,”<br />

tossed over a paying job with a Houston<br />

petrochemical company, moved to <strong>Austin</strong>,<br />

and blithely hung out her KLW, Inc. shingle.<br />

And, although she arrived with a young<br />

family, no capital, little in the way of solid<br />

prospects, and a disdain for pursuing the<br />

myriad affirmative action small business ‘leg<br />

ups’ available to minority entrepreneurs, she<br />

has not only survived, but appears to be more<br />

than holding her own in a so-called man’s<br />

world and profession.<br />

Ms. Craig’s modest engineering firm, now<br />

staffed by her eldest daughter, four additional<br />

engineers and support staff, is fast gaining a<br />

reputation as one of Central Texas’ better<br />

small shops.<br />

“I think that’s because we’ve trimmed the<br />

fat, stayed on top of the latest and greatest<br />

ways of providing full service and value, and<br />

we’ve managed to gain and cultivate a loyal<br />

clientele,” Craig says.<br />

Craig, a 1973 graduate of<br />

Prairie View A&M University, is<br />

a registered professional engineer<br />

with the finely tuned<br />

instincts of a clever MBA.<br />

Following early, lucrative successes<br />

on some large area projects,<br />

she saw KLW grow to an<br />

unmanageable size.“ We were up<br />

to 25 people, many of whom<br />

were very well compensated,<br />

with revenues totaling about<br />

$3.5 million,” she related. But<br />

the level of personal satisfaction<br />

was being frustrated by that growth, Craig said,<br />

prompting her to scale the operation down to a<br />

more manageable and “professionally rewarding”<br />

size.<br />

Future expansion plans call for KLW to<br />

formalize and act on its desire to joint venture<br />

with a philosophically like-minded general<br />

contractor to facilitate a move into the<br />

design/build arena of commercial and institutional<br />

development.<br />

“We’re working on the model and business<br />

plans now, and hope to take the next steps in<br />

that direction before long,” Craig said.<br />

Meanwhile, KLW, Inc. continues to provide<br />

mechanical, electrical and plumbing engineering<br />

services, as well as construction oversight<br />

on a variety of projects.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> area projects in the company’s portfolio<br />

include those for Advanced Micro<br />

Devices, <strong>Austin</strong> Independent School District,<br />

the State Capitol, <strong>Austin</strong> Convention Center,<br />

and <strong>Austin</strong> Community College.<br />

KLW, INC.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | BUILDING A GREATER AUSTIN<br />

105


✧<br />

MACIAS &<br />

ASSOCIATES,<br />

INC.<br />

Above: (left to right) Dolores Macias,<br />

Carmelo L. Macias and Henry A. Dufeau.<br />

Below: Dolores and Carmelo L. Macias.<br />

Founders of Macias and Associates, Inc.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

106<br />

Dolores and Carmelo L. Macias<br />

founded Macias and Associates,<br />

Inc. in 1986. It was in the interest<br />

of entrepreneurial spirit that they<br />

managed to gather enough<br />

courage to venture into Land<br />

Surveying and Mapping.<br />

Having both had parents who<br />

were independent contractors,<br />

Dolores and Carmelo had a burning<br />

desire to be independent business<br />

owners, a desire instilled by<br />

their parents.<br />

Dolores’ father was a master<br />

masonry contractor in San<br />

Antonio. Her mother became the<br />

support that is essential to a family<br />

business, which was eventually<br />

carried on by their sons.<br />

Carmelo’s father was a master<br />

carpenter who constructed homes<br />

in the San Antonio area; his mother<br />

helped in the family wine business<br />

in southern Italy before coming<br />

to America. Dolores and<br />

Carmelo’s children, Gino and<br />

Angela continue to help with the<br />

business today.<br />

When they began the firm in 1986, they<br />

knew that there was a need for their services<br />

in the City of <strong>Austin</strong> that they could fulfill.<br />

They knew that the firm would<br />

be theirs, and could produce<br />

the quality of services they were<br />

accustomed to.<br />

Henry A. Dufeau, a teacher<br />

and mentor of many, and a<br />

Registered Professional<br />

Surveyor, joined the firm in<br />

1993. Their signature projects<br />

range from the new City of<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Convention Center and<br />

the <strong>Austin</strong>-Bergstrom International<br />

Airport, where they pioneered<br />

the computer-assisted<br />

drafting layering process in land<br />

surveying on large municipal<br />

projects. The convention center<br />

and the new <strong>Austin</strong>-Bergstrom<br />

Inter-national Airport stand as<br />

monuments to their efforts.<br />

In 1993, Macias and Associates was chosen<br />

to provide the design surveys and quality control<br />

services for land surveying for the New<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>-Bergstrom International Airport. This<br />

$700 million project became the most important<br />

and the most expensive municipal project<br />

in the history of the City of <strong>Austin</strong> and Henry<br />

Dufeau led the surveying effort.<br />

Macias and Associates was selected to provide<br />

design surveys for the new Texas<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Museum and the Texas Peace<br />

Officers Memorial Monument, and the State<br />

Capitol improvements. The firm was named<br />

to provide surveying services for the Texas<br />

Department of Transportation. The firm has<br />

also been the surveyor of record for many<br />

projects in the private sector such as new residential<br />

subdivisions, shopping centers, hill<br />

country developments and environmentally<br />

hazardous sites.<br />

Macias and Associates, Inc. is proud to be<br />

an integral part of the modern day history in<br />

the building of the City of <strong>Austin</strong>.


Built on the foundation of quality and<br />

attention to detail, Harutunian Engineering<br />

Incorporated (HEI) is an Engineering and<br />

Environmental Consulting firm that has<br />

raised the City of <strong>Austin</strong>’s engineering standards<br />

and expectations.<br />

Despite their considerable reputation for<br />

excellence and the influence earned through<br />

their first ten years, HEI chooses to be a quiet<br />

company. In an age where most companies<br />

relentlessly pursue publicity, HEI prefers to let<br />

its work product and the principled attitudes<br />

that govern their efforts speak for themselves.<br />

Although the firm is growth-minded, they<br />

are protective of their reputation for quality.<br />

“There is a chemistry here…an ethic of high<br />

standards and client satisfaction driven by<br />

a team who believes in hard work, honesty,<br />

and quality.”<br />

Today, the firm is home to a team of talented<br />

engineers, technicians, and staff, with creative<br />

skills ranging from industrial systems<br />

design to the design of software systems. The<br />

services offered by HEI include electrical engineering,<br />

mechanical engineering, and environmental<br />

services.<br />

While HEI projects span the globe, their<br />

engineering contributions run deep into<br />

the roots of <strong>Austin</strong>. HEI has provided extensive<br />

services for the development of <strong>Austin</strong>’s entire<br />

water and wastewater infrastructure, the City’s<br />

Robert Mueller Municipal Airport, and<br />

the new <strong>Austin</strong>-Bergstrom International<br />

Airport. HEI has also provided elaborate<br />

design services for the University of Texas,<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Independent School District, Travis<br />

County, State of Texas, and many of <strong>Austin</strong>’s<br />

high-tech companies.<br />

As HEI continues to win its share of design<br />

and design-build projects, its reputation for<br />

elegant, in-depth solutions to large and complex<br />

projects has made them the “go-to” firm<br />

in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

HEI is not one to “rehash” old designs.<br />

Their talents grow with the times. As new engineering<br />

solutions are brought to the market<br />

place, HEI openly embraces state-of-the-art,<br />

user-friendly technology and provides a<br />

knowledgeable path for their Clients to follow.<br />

“This,” a spokesperson said, “is the kind of<br />

work we’ve trained and educated ourselves for.<br />

It underscores the reputation we’ve tried so<br />

hard to build.”<br />

“We owe the starting and success of HEI to<br />

our true founders-our parents, Mr. Ardash<br />

Harutunian and Mrs. Ossanna Harutunian,”<br />

HEI’s CEO said. They raised their children,<br />

today’s leaders of HEI, to conduct themselves<br />

with high moral ethics. And that’s how the<br />

company is run. “Sure, it’s difficult at times to<br />

follow such impeccable moral practices in<br />

today’s cut-throat world. But, we hold to our<br />

foundations…knowing that we will wake-up<br />

the next morning honestly happy and proud of<br />

who we are and with a guilt-free conscience.”<br />

HEI’s dedication to quality also extends to<br />

the community’s quality of life. For a decade<br />

now, the firm has made <strong>Austin</strong> its home and<br />

has been actively involved in community outreach<br />

programs.<br />

The firm is proud to make <strong>Austin</strong> its<br />

Headquarters. The City of <strong>Austin</strong> has been<br />

respectful and appreciative of the company’s<br />

efforts. In the words of the HEI Team, “The<br />

respect and trust of our clients is all the recognition<br />

we need. This underscores the integrity<br />

and reputation of our firm.”<br />

HARUTUNIAN<br />

ENGINEERING<br />

INCORPORATED<br />

Ms. Takoohy A. Harutunian<br />

CEO/President<br />

Mr. Kegham A. Harutunian<br />

Vice President<br />

Mr. Hagob A. Harutunian<br />

Vice President<br />

Sharing the Heritage | BUILDING A GREATER AUSTIN<br />

107


MANUFACTURING, INDUSTRY & TECHNOLOGY<br />

110 Solectron Texas<br />

112 Micro-Media Solutions, Inc.<br />

114 Capital Printing Co., Inc.<br />

116 Alliance Mechanical Systems<br />

117 Glastron Boat Company<br />

118 MagRabbit, Inc.<br />

119 IntelliQuest<br />

POSTCARDS COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.


SOLECTRON<br />

TEXAS<br />

Founded in 1977, Solectron Corporation<br />

(www.solectron.com) is a worldwide provider<br />

of pre-manufacturing, manufacturing and postmanufacturing<br />

services to leading electronics<br />

original equipment manufacturers (OEMs).<br />

Solectron offers a broad range of design,<br />

manufacturing, and support solutions to optimize<br />

their customers’ manufacturing supply<br />

chain, allowing them to focus on their own<br />

core competencies, such as research and<br />

development, sales and marketing.<br />

Solectron has more than 22,000 employees<br />

in 21 manufacturing facilities around the<br />

world. The corporation is publicly traded on<br />

the New York Stock Exchange (SLR) with revenues<br />

of $3.7 billion ending August 31, 1997.<br />

Solectron offers its customers competitive<br />

outsourcing advantages, such as access to<br />

advanced manufacturing technologies, shortened<br />

product time-to-market, reduced cost of<br />

production and more effective asset utilization.<br />

Over the last six years the company has<br />

grown rapidly, averaging 55% growth per<br />

year, and has received more than 140 quality<br />

and service awards from its Customers, in<br />

addition to the 1997 and 1991 Malcolm<br />

Baldrige National Quality Awards.<br />

Solectron provides engineering and manufacturing<br />

services to the electronics industry<br />

worldwide. Solectron was acquired from<br />

Texas Instruments in 1996. The TI Custom<br />

Manufacturing Services business was started<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

110


up in 1988, which makes Solectron one of the<br />

most experienced operations in<br />

the Electronics Manufacturing Services<br />

(EMS) industry.<br />

The growing trend for original equipment<br />

manufacturers to outsource more of their electronics<br />

functions to partners like Solectron is<br />

causing rapid expansion for our operation.<br />

Solectron is adding 230,000 square feet to<br />

its current 450,000 square foot facility to<br />

keep up with demand.<br />

Solectron is committed to operating with<br />

the Malcolm Baldrige Quality Processes, as<br />

evidenced by its winning both the<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> and Texas Quality Awards. We are<br />

committed to strong strategic alliances with<br />

key customers to continue our growth in the<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> area.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | MANUFACTURING, INDUSTRY & TECHNOLOGY<br />

111


MICRO-MEDIA<br />

SOLUTIONS,<br />

INC.<br />

Jose Chavez, President/CEO of Micro-Media<br />

Solutions, Inc.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

112<br />

There are any number of garage-to-garden<br />

office success stories in the heady, grow-andgo<br />

electronics technology industry.<br />

Typical are tales of software geeks who<br />

develop a whiz bang product, cruise to a<br />

Nasdaq listing and become obscenely rich in<br />

less time than it takes to boot up a TRS-80.<br />

The story of <strong>Austin</strong>’s Micro-Media<br />

Solutions, Inc. (MSI) is every bit as compelling,<br />

dealing mostly with a man, a vision,<br />

drive, energy, smarts, and savvy colleagues.<br />

MSI President and Chief Executive Officer<br />

Jose Chavez had already enjoyed a successful<br />

career with Hughes Aircraft and CompuAdd<br />

Corp before launching the MSI venture<br />

in June, 1993. An engineer by training, he<br />

had hands-on experience in the corporate<br />

world and absorbed what was useful, discarding<br />

the rest.<br />

Chavez commandeered the laundry room<br />

at home as his first base of operations, the<br />

garage being otherwise occupied. It was here<br />

that Chavez summoned a former CompuAdd<br />

colleague, Mitch Kettrick. Together, they set<br />

in motion what is today a company to be<br />

reckoned with amongst <strong>Austin</strong>’s dynamic<br />

high-tech community.<br />

MSI made its presence known almost<br />

immediately when, within two months of<br />

startup, the company secured a nearly $4 million<br />

contract to setup the computer system<br />

for the Texas Department of Health.<br />

Needing capital to perform, Chavez tapped<br />

into the resources available to him as the principal<br />

of a minority-owned, historically underutilized<br />

business (HUB). Funding was forthcoming<br />

from the <strong>Austin</strong> Community<br />

Development Corporation, Bank One, and the<br />

City of <strong>Austin</strong>. The jump start elevated MSI to<br />

a higher visibility almost immediately and the<br />

founder’s determination to become the leading<br />

computer networking services provider in the<br />

central U.S. (primarily for institutional customers)<br />

began to seem achievable.<br />

By 1995, the company was riding a wave<br />

of success that necessitated physical plant<br />

expansion, and Chavez once again demonstrated<br />

a penchant for going against conventional<br />

wisdom.<br />

Instead of joining the high-tech herd along<br />

Loop 360 or the city’s northwest corridor<br />

doing the image thing, Micro-Media Solutions<br />

opted to reclaim a disused warehouse in a disadvantaged<br />

near-eastside neighborhood.<br />

“We did this purposely,” said Chavez,<br />

“because we wanted to introduce a non-traditional<br />

form of business to the area, and make<br />

a contribution.”<br />

In so doing, Chavez has also introduced a<br />

number of previously untrained and underemployed<br />

neighborhood residents to a life they<br />

could only have imagined a few short years<br />

ago—many are now building a career instead<br />

of marking time in a job. At least a third of<br />

MSI’s workforce, which today numbers 100,<br />

call east <strong>Austin</strong> home, and all have benefited<br />

from the company’s investment in training -<br />

nearly $200,000 in 1997, which is in addition<br />

to donations of time and materials. The company<br />

also invests in local schools to advance<br />

technology training at the grass roots level.<br />

The revitalization of the company’s 36,000<br />

square foot facility and the attendant sense of<br />

pride and participation that has become<br />

evident in the neighborhood are only a beginning<br />

for Chavez and his company’s leadership.<br />

High on Chavez’s wish list for the nottoo-distant<br />

future is realization of a mixed use<br />

development for his neighborhood.<br />

Prominent in his office is an architect’s<br />

rendering and scale models depicting a storybook<br />

ideal—whitewashed, red tile roofed<br />

dwellings, pedestrian plazas, shops and


an 85,000 square-foot expansion in three<br />

stories to house MSI offices, and top floor<br />

condominiums.<br />

Accolades and recognition for the company’s<br />

altruistic citizenship endeavors are on<br />

pace with honors for business achievement.<br />

Texas Monthly featured the company in<br />

its June, 1997 issue, scant months after<br />

Chavez was tapped for an Adelante Award<br />

bestowed by equally prestigious Hispanic<br />

Magazine and NationsBank.<br />

Among beneficiaries of MSI’s seemingly<br />

boundless largess are Amigos en Azul, the<br />

Red Cross, Capital Area Training Foundation,<br />

Charitech, Metz Elementary, <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Firefighters, LULAC, Christopher House,<br />

Adopt-A-School, and <strong>Austin</strong> Cleanup 2000.<br />

Today, MSI’s core business of communications<br />

services provides turnkey solutions for<br />

high speed Internet connectivity, communications<br />

infrastructure design and installation,<br />

and network/systems integration.<br />

MSI is also the OEM of the TelaVista, a<br />

comparatively low-cost computer for both<br />

network and stand-alone usage that supports<br />

up to 200 MHz CPU’s.<br />

A short list of company clients includes<br />

GTE, Seimens Nixdorf, Inc., Texas<br />

Department of Transportation, City of <strong>Austin</strong>,<br />

Southwestern Bell, CompUSA, the University<br />

of Texas, LCRA, Radiant Systems,<br />

Southwestern Bell, Transactive, and the<br />

Lower Colorado River Authority.<br />

Listed as one of the top 100 Hispanicowned<br />

companies in the nation and 7th<br />

among the 13 Hispanic-controlled public<br />

companies, MSI is also involved in sales partnership<br />

agreements with industry majors<br />

Hewlett Packard, IBM, Cisco, and Tektronix.<br />

Milestone achievements for the company<br />

include going public in 1997; stock is currently<br />

traded on the OTC Electronic Bulletin Board<br />

under the symbol “MSIA,” and the company is<br />

exploring the possibility of a Nasdaq listing as<br />

this profile was being written.<br />

At mid-year, MSI announced a partnership<br />

agreement with Siemens Nixdorf, Inc.(SNI)<br />

retail systems division.<br />

And in a dramatic development that will<br />

have far-reaching effects, the company<br />

revealed a new alliance with telecommunications<br />

giant GTE. The agreement, which<br />

broadens MSI’s data communications and<br />

Internet solutions, enables the company to<br />

market high-speed access to the Internet<br />

through collocation services. “MSI realizes<br />

that the only way for companies to access the<br />

tremendous resources available on the<br />

Internet, or through other venues, is to have<br />

a reliable network,” Chavez said.<br />

Collocation is especially beneficial to<br />

organizations with heavy multimedia utilization,<br />

such as webcasting, Real Video, and<br />

videoconferencing.<br />

As the company ended Quarter 2 of its fiscal<br />

year 1999, its future was looking especially<br />

strong, with contracts in hand potentially<br />

valued at more than $100 million.<br />

As to the long term, Chavez and the company<br />

he founded less than a decade ago,<br />

appear to be on target for the dominant, leadership<br />

role they seek and work toward.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | MANUFACTURING, INDUSTRY & TECHNOLOGY<br />

113


✧<br />

Above: The oak tree which shades the<br />

Capital Printing’s entrance.<br />

Below: Barkley Edwards working for<br />

Capital Printing in the 1950s.<br />

CAPITAL<br />

PRINTING<br />

CO., INC.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

114<br />

The ancient, stately oak<br />

that shades the entrance<br />

speaks to longevity, and its<br />

presence underscores the fact<br />

that Capital Printing Co.is the<br />

oldest commercial print shop<br />

still operating in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

The modern, life-size ironwork<br />

sculpture that stands on<br />

its own patio just south of the<br />

entry, conveys messages that<br />

resonate on a couple of levels.<br />

This particular piece of<br />

environmental ornament, not<br />

quite an abstract, suggests<br />

that the folks in charge<br />

accept, even celebrate the<br />

dominant universal constant:<br />

the inevitability of change.<br />

What’s new is good or can be shaped in<br />

that direction.<br />

Capital Printing’s president, Barkley<br />

Edwards, and his wife Faye, majority owner,<br />

applaud most of the changes that have<br />

occurred in the printing industry, although<br />

Barkley regrets the passing of the day when<br />

you could take a handshake to the bank.<br />

In at least one respect, those days are with<br />

us still.<br />

That sculpture is a good example. It exists<br />

because Capital Printing employees anted up<br />

a significant part of its cost as a housewarming<br />

gift to the owners when<br />

the plant moved to its present<br />

southeast <strong>Austin</strong> location. Its<br />

theme is one of mutual<br />

respect. The two figures face<br />

each other, one representing<br />

management the other,<br />

employees; together they hold<br />

a press sheet. They could be<br />

looking at flaws.<br />

But that is only a remote<br />

possibility. It’s more likely the<br />

figures are congratulating each<br />

other for a job well done.<br />

Capital Printing seems to<br />

fly in the face of conventional<br />

corporate attitudes about<br />

those in their employ. It is<br />

highly doubtful that there is a<br />

Human Resources handbook that refers to a<br />

person as an asset. Less likely there will ever<br />

be one so long as the Edwards’ are driving the<br />

bus. Even now, when the printing business is<br />

driven by technological advances, and nearly<br />

everyone involved in the process is computerliterate,<br />

Capital Printing employees are considered<br />

skilled artisans, worthy of respect and<br />

a stake in his or her own future.<br />

“Everyone here is part of our family,” says<br />

Faye Edwards, and you know she’s not just<br />

mouthing some public relations platitude.<br />

Her husband, a plainspoken man whose<br />

weathered features suggest a love of the outdoors,<br />

seconds the notion, saying that had it<br />

not been for a rash of retirements in recent<br />

years, the average tenure of employees would<br />

be well into double digits.<br />

As it is, most of Capital Printing’s 56<br />

employees have been on the job here for 6-to-<br />

9 years on average.<br />

Barkley Edwards began an apprenticeship<br />

with the company in 1958. By then the firm<br />

was on the cusp of being 30 years old, tracing<br />

its beginnings to 1929 when it was bought<br />

and operated as Capital Printing Company by<br />

Mr. and Mrs. E.R. Harrell. Prior to that time,<br />

the shop had been known as Numbers<br />

Printing Company.<br />

Barkley Edwards and Bill Raby, who would<br />

later become partners in a buyout of the firm,<br />

did what all apprentices had been expected to


do since the days of the crafts guilds that flourished<br />

during the industrial revolution, which is<br />

to say, everything. At first it was all the heavy<br />

lifting, then graduation to pre-press chores,<br />

hand finishing and binding, and later on learning<br />

how to outfox an eccentric letterpress. Days<br />

on days when the phrase ink-stained wretch<br />

was all too real, and you had to love it. The heat<br />

and noise, the pungent aromas of ink and solvents,<br />

a ration of minor burns and paper cuts,<br />

and the relentless tyranny of deadlines.<br />

Today, every surface, every piece of equipment<br />

shines like it’s on parade. There’s a busy<br />

hum to the place, but not the infernal racket<br />

of old; its as clean and efficient as a NASA<br />

clean room.<br />

Nothing about deadlines has changed,<br />

however, and in order to keep pace with the<br />

challenges of the digital age, Capital Printing<br />

invests heavily in cutting edge technology<br />

and the people who make it work.<br />

There is a new kind of artisan, no less<br />

committed than his predecessors, whose<br />

involvement in new technology notwithstanding,<br />

is engaged in the time-honored<br />

craftsmanship required to produce a finished<br />

product that gives life to a designers ideas.<br />

The tools have changed, but the pursuit of<br />

perfection remains.<br />

Dominating the main production bay of<br />

this large facility is a new Heidelberg<br />

Speedmaster eight-color, high speed press,<br />

the first of its kind in North America. It’s a<br />

sheet fed press that is capable of printing four<br />

colors, two-sided, or two colors over six colors<br />

in one pass at a rate of 24,000 combined<br />

impressions per hour at full speed.<br />

Extra capacity and dozens of other<br />

time/money savings features will enable<br />

Capital Printing to handle many of the longer<br />

press runs traditionally limited to web press<br />

operations. Another five-color Heidelberg<br />

press has been modified to complement the<br />

new addition.<br />

New presses, state-of-the-art finishing<br />

capabilities and the latest in digital pre-press<br />

equipment and software, enable Capital<br />

Printing Co. to keep pace with the growing<br />

demands of the information age.<br />

In 1974, the Edwards’ and the Raby’s<br />

decided to pursue the professional associa-<br />

tions’ printing business, a niche market they<br />

now dominate in the region.<br />

Many organizations rely on Capital<br />

Printing Co. for their periodicals publishing;<br />

notable among them, the Texas Restaurant<br />

Association which has been a client for more<br />

than 50 years.<br />

But fine, or commercial<br />

printing is also a staple of<br />

the business and Capital<br />

will happily quote even<br />

the smallest job.<br />

Capital Printing is often<br />

the favored choice of graphics<br />

designers, particularly<br />

when the printer is called<br />

upon to provide “off-themenu”<br />

printing solutions to<br />

keep faith with or even<br />

enhance a creative idea.<br />

“We will always keep<br />

abreast of the changes,”<br />

says Barkley Edwards, “but<br />

we’ll never lose sight of the<br />

fact that ours is a business<br />

of bringing ideas to<br />

life…with ink on paper.”<br />

✧<br />

Above: The ironwork sculpture which was<br />

purchased by employees for the owners of<br />

Capital Printing in 1983.<br />

Below: Barkley and Faye Edwards.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | MANUFACTURING, INDUSTRY & TECHNOLOGY<br />

115


ALLIANCE<br />

MECHANICAL<br />

SYSTEMS<br />

✧<br />

Above: Company principals Donny Reeves<br />

(standing) and Patrick Baker<br />

Below: Sheet metal fabrication area of<br />

Alliance’s eastside plant<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

116<br />

Despite the robust and seemingly endless<br />

boom economy of the late 1990s, Donny<br />

Reeves is all too familiar with the conventional<br />

wisdom that a downturn lurks somewhere<br />

beyond the glowing horizon. And that just<br />

over the edge, dark specters wait to snatch<br />

fickle fortune from the unwary or the unlucky.<br />

Reeves, president of the remarkable and<br />

flourishing Alliance Mechanical Systems of<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, has been to the edge, as so many did,<br />

during the go-go early 1980s. As so many<br />

did, he stumbled and fell.<br />

“I thought I was going to corner the<br />

market on duplexes in South and Central<br />

Texas,” Reeves said with spare, rueful smile.<br />

He doesn’t elaborate, just matter-of-factly<br />

admits to going broke.<br />

“And”, he adds, “it’s someplace I will never<br />

go again.” Although he says this quietly, one<br />

can sense the steely conviction, the intensity<br />

of feeling and unshakable belief.<br />

Reeves is in his early 50s but could pass for<br />

40. His partner of two years, Patrick Baker is<br />

somewhat younger, and together they’ve<br />

forged a formidable alliance and a commercial<br />

enterprise that they believe will weather the<br />

next, inevitable regional or local downturn<br />

regardless of the degree of severity.<br />

“Our focus,” says Baker, “is to be as diverse<br />

as possible within the logical parameters of<br />

our business segment.”<br />

“And,” adds Reeves, “we’re doing it without<br />

fear.”<br />

Baker is the on-paper professional of the<br />

team, bringing an engineering degree and 21<br />

years experience in the field of commercial<br />

refrigeration to the table. Prior to the merger<br />

of Baker’s PRB Mechanical and Reeves’<br />

Alliance Mechanical Systems in 1992, each<br />

had worked for the same mechanical contractor<br />

and Reeves had specialized in the retail<br />

end of the spectrum.<br />

It was while working for the “other guy”<br />

that each realized that a fearful approach to<br />

the marketplace was jeopardizing their<br />

futures. “We saw that a ‘maintain at all costs’<br />

attitude was inhibiting real growth, and we<br />

vowed to never fall into that trap if and when<br />

the opportunity arose for us,” Reeves said.<br />

Taking lessons learned to heart and adopting<br />

a more aggressive approach, Alliance<br />

Mechanical Systems has doubled its gross<br />

sales each year since the partnership formed<br />

with revenues of about $12 million in 1997.<br />

Located in east <strong>Austin</strong> in a light industrial<br />

area, Alliance provides steady work for<br />

upwards of 135 skilled and semi-skilled<br />

employees, operating from a fabrication plant<br />

encompassing about 15,000 square feet.<br />

Landmark or notable projects include the<br />

refrigeration plant sustaining the 194,000-<br />

square foot Texas Natural Resources Control<br />

Commission building; Sears at Lakeline Mall;<br />

projects from El Paso to Corpus Christi for<br />

Wal-Mart, Mervyns, and Target stores; more<br />

than 3,600 apartment units in the Greater<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> area.<br />

In addition, Alliance Mechanical Systems<br />

has completed projects for St. David’s and<br />

Georgetown hospitals and their attendant<br />

office structures and is in-progress on a $3<br />

million contract for Round Rock High School.


Lyndon Johnson had one. So did Aristotle<br />

Onassis. The British royal family posed with<br />

theirs for a Christmas card. In 1973, a stuntdouble<br />

for James Bond ramped one airborne,<br />

establishing a world flight record for a boat of<br />

110 feet. From the first prototype in 1956,<br />

landing from high places at speed, as in the<br />

movie Live and Let Die, underscored what<br />

every owner came to know: Glastron served up<br />

one tough boat.<br />

Now manufactured in Little Falls,<br />

Minnesota, the spiritual home remains <strong>Austin</strong><br />

where Robert Hammond, Bob Shoop,<br />

William Gaston, and Guy Woodard formed<br />

what was to become the world’s leading producer<br />

of pleasure boats. Much of Glastron’s<br />

success was due to the synergy attributed to<br />

the founders’ blend of interest and backgrounds.<br />

Gaston brought a sales background<br />

to the table, having owned an <strong>Austin</strong> marine<br />

dealership and achieved success selling a<br />

California-made “glass” boat. Shoop, who<br />

owned Capitol Casket, had considerable business<br />

and organization skills.<br />

Hammond was production manager and<br />

designer for the fiberglass division of an aluminum<br />

boat company and had dreamed of<br />

starting a company employing advanced<br />

design. Woodard owned a raw material company<br />

in Fort Worth, knew both Hammond<br />

and Shoop and arranged a meeting at<br />

Hammond’s Arlington, Texas home in the<br />

spring of 1956 to discuss the venture.<br />

An agreement was reached where Hammond<br />

rented a garage and built molds and a prototype<br />

during evenings and weekends. Gaston<br />

and Shoop returned for a demonstration<br />

in the fall and the decision was made<br />

to proceed.<br />

The investor group raised a little over<br />

$20,000 cash, found a 4000 square-foot<br />

building to rent in <strong>Austin</strong> where Gaston<br />

and Shoop lived and Hammond felt<br />

labor conditions were more favorable.<br />

Bettye Hammond coined the Glastron<br />

name and in October Hammond moved<br />

to <strong>Austin</strong> and started production.<br />

Gaston took to the road in his pickup<br />

and sold all the company could turn out<br />

in two months—24 boats that translated<br />

into sales of $12,262. The then “radical”<br />

design of the 15’ Fireflite, with its monohedron<br />

hull, tailfins and side spears, proved<br />

popular with the boating press and public. By<br />

1958, three models were in production and<br />

sales passed $2 million.<br />

During the succeeding decade, manufacturing,<br />

process and design innovations continued<br />

and Glastron milestones came faster. In 1960,<br />

the company went public through<br />

a stock and debenture underwriting<br />

by a New York brokerage firm,<br />

a move to larger space and in 1961<br />

Gaston came aboard full time as<br />

Executive Vice President.<br />

In 1964, Glastron directors<br />

sold San Antonio oilman Hugh<br />

Halff, Jr. a half interest in the company<br />

as it broke the $5 million<br />

mark. In 1967, Glastron<br />

exchanged stock with Halff’s<br />

Conroy holding company.<br />

At its peak during the 1970s,<br />

Glastron achieved sales of<br />

$36,000,000. The <strong>Austin</strong> plant<br />

encompassed 623,000 square<br />

feet, employed 1,200, built<br />

22,000 boats and sent them out<br />

to 1,000 dealers here and in 50<br />

countries around the world.<br />

Both active in association affairs,<br />

Gaston served as Chairman of<br />

Boating Industry Association<br />

and Hammond was inducted<br />

into the Hall of Fame in 1998.<br />

They have gone on to other ventures<br />

and Shoop has retired but<br />

all still reside in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

GLASTRON<br />

BOAT<br />

COMPANY<br />

✧<br />

Top: An aerial view of the Glastron Boat’s<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> manufacturing plant.<br />

Middle: Glastron Boat Company’s latest<br />

revolutionary design, the SX 195.<br />

Below: William Gaston and Robert<br />

Hammond standing next to a restored<br />

original Glastron prototype in 1964.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | MANUFACTURING, INDUSTRY & TECHNOLOGY<br />

117


✧<br />

MAGRABBIT,<br />

INC.<br />

Valued employees of MagRabbit: (left to<br />

right) Luc Ho Dinh, Gary Pankonien,<br />

Tom Vu, Thao Pham, Anne Marie Nguyen,<br />

Pat Brooks, Anne Dooley, Sonny Pham,<br />

Thanh-Ha Hodinh, Audrey Aateaga,<br />

Tommy Hodinh, and Aaron Hodinh<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

118<br />

MagRabbit is one of the fastest-growing<br />

companies in the <strong>Austin</strong> area and was recently<br />

recognized as one of the top 50 companies<br />

with the highest growth rate. Based in the<br />

satellite city of Round Rock, MagRabbit provides<br />

a variety of support services for the burgeoning<br />

computer industry in the area, and it<br />

has grown and prospered as high-technology<br />

companies increasingly outsource their technical<br />

support needs. MagRabbit provides<br />

manufacturing, distribution, order management,<br />

technical support, and electronic commerce<br />

services for large companies.<br />

“One of the main reasons we’re successful<br />

is our employees. Their hard work, ethics, and<br />

dedication to the company create our core<br />

strength,” says Thanh “Tommy” Hodinh,<br />

Chairman and CEO, who has created not only<br />

a successful company but also an opportunity<br />

for dozens of his compatriots, like Anne Marie<br />

Nguyen, Vice President of Client Services;<br />

Thao Pham, Distribution Manager; Tom Vu,<br />

Information Technology Director; Todd Le<br />

and Tuyen Bui, both Account Managers.<br />

Born and raised in South Vietnam, the<br />

hard-working, scholarly Hodinh won a government-sponsored<br />

scholarship as a young<br />

man that allowed him to study in the United<br />

States. He learned English at the same time he<br />

was working his way through Lincoln<br />

University in San Francisco. Hodinh transferred<br />

to the University of Texas at El Paso for<br />

its lower tuition and strong engineering program.<br />

Upon graduation in 1976, he went to<br />

work for IBM as a design and manufacturing<br />

engineer in <strong>Austin</strong>, and advanced through the<br />

ranks before starting MagRabbit.<br />

In 1990, Hodinh co-founded MagRabbit<br />

Inc. as a small diskette duplication and fulfillment<br />

company. Hodinh’s brother Luc and<br />

brother-in-law, Sonny Pham, joined him as<br />

partners, bringing their expertise in manufacturing<br />

processes. Through his family, Hodinh<br />

recruited friends and veterans from Vietnam to<br />

work at the fledgling company. Their common<br />

background, culture, and war-time experiences<br />

made them an unusually dedicated and<br />

loyal workforce.<br />

Within four years MagRabbit had 125<br />

employees and was earning $5 million in<br />

annual revenues. By 1995 it had expanded<br />

to include a call center, electronic commerce,<br />

and related software development services.<br />

In 1998, MagRabbit doubled in size with<br />

an additional distribution center, which<br />

ships hundreds of thousands of products<br />

each month.<br />

MagRabbit diversified again in 1998 when<br />

Hodinh recruited Compaq Computer veteran<br />

and entrepreneur Gary Pankonien to be his<br />

major partner. Pankonien founded<br />

several companies and brings strong<br />

business management skills to the<br />

company. Today MagRabbit is one of<br />

the largest fulfillment and distribution<br />

centers in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Hodinh is married to Thanh-Ha,<br />

a software engineer, and has two<br />

sons, Aaron and Arlen. Aaron is in<br />

college and works part-time at<br />

MagRabbit while Arlen is a freshman<br />

at the University of Texas at <strong>Austin</strong><br />

majoring in computer engineering.<br />

Hodinh is also very active in the<br />

community. He is the chairmanelect<br />

and on the board of the Texas<br />

Asian Chamber of Commerce and a<br />

board member of the <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Children’s Museum and the Central<br />

and South Texas Minority Supply<br />

Development Council.


HELPING TECHNOLOGY<br />

COMPANIES MARKET SMARTER<br />

In the fast-paced and dynamic high-tech<br />

arena, tech marketers’ success depends often<br />

on the in-depth knowledge of one’s market,<br />

customers and competitors.<br />

So, if the brainchild that R&D is so proud<br />

of is due to ship six months hence, the marketing<br />

department in your organization<br />

should already be talking to IntelliQuest.<br />

A whimsical example to be sure, but technology<br />

marketers who need statistically valid<br />

market input-across a wide range of product<br />

categories and on a global basis-should turn<br />

to this <strong>Austin</strong>-based firm.<br />

In fact, if that information is needed stat<br />

and on an on-going basis, IntelliQuest may be<br />

the only player with the expertise and technical<br />

resources to get the job done.<br />

IntelliQuest (www.intelliquest.com) was<br />

founded in 1985 to address a wide array of<br />

technology marketing information needs.<br />

Recognizing that traditional marketing<br />

information gathering (i.e., focus group<br />

input, direct observation of market trends via<br />

specialty publications, and limited customer<br />

interviews) often lacked statistical accuracy,<br />

IntelliQuest developed quantitative proprietary<br />

and syndicated research services.<br />

In the market and brand tracking realm,<br />

the company’s IntelliTrack IQ is considered<br />

the best vehicle yet devised for tracking critical<br />

market metrics and brand performance<br />

with respect to hundreds of competing technology<br />

brands.<br />

For media buyers charged with selecting<br />

the most effective means of disseminating<br />

product or services information to target<br />

audiences, IntelliQuest provides its Computer<br />

Industry Media Study (CIMS) service, which<br />

measures readership, viewership, and the<br />

buying habits of those who control computer<br />

and related purchases.<br />

Other syndicated services offered by<br />

IntelliQuest include a comprehensive Internet<br />

tracking study as well as an e-commerce<br />

tracking study.<br />

Utilizing the latest technology including<br />

the Internet, IntelliQuest has developed<br />

cutting edge electronic product registration<br />

services, that in combination with comprehensive<br />

database marketing solutions, allow<br />

technology clients to maintain customer<br />

retention and repurchase rates that drive<br />

increased profitability.<br />

IntelliQuest’s proprietary research division<br />

provides technology marketers with statistically<br />

valid market input into virtually any significant<br />

marketing decision. These include<br />

product design, market assessment, customer<br />

segmentation and targeting, pricing, copy<br />

testing, distribution tracking and customer<br />

satisfaction measurements.<br />

IntelliQuest’s wholly-owned subsidiary,<br />

Zona Research confines its activities to indepth<br />

analysis and assessments of the<br />

Internet and intranet markets. Daily market<br />

assessments, conducted by respected analysts,<br />

are available to clients via subscription.<br />

Another valuable resource provided by<br />

IntelliQuest centers on its online Technology<br />

Panel, comprised of thousands of pre-recruited<br />

and profiled technology users and buyers<br />

who provide instant research feedback.<br />

IntelliQuest, with offices in Atlanta, New<br />

York, London, and Silicon Valley, is led by<br />

President and CEO Brian Sharples. The<br />

Founder and Chairman is Dr. Peter Zandan.<br />

The company, which a PC Magazine writer<br />

admitted provides the market research numbers<br />

“I trust the most,” employs 400 professionals and<br />

support staff, 210 of whom are based in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

INTELLIQUEST<br />

✧<br />

Above, left: Brian Sharples,<br />

President and Chief Executive Officer<br />

Above, right: Marianne Grogan,<br />

President, Research Group<br />

Sharing the Heritage | MANUFACTURING, INDUSTRY & TECHNOLOGY<br />

119


THE MARKETPLACE<br />

122 Clark, Thomas & Winters, A Professional Corporation<br />

124 LBJ Holding Company<br />

126 University Co-operative Society<br />

128 <strong>Austin</strong> Forex International, Inc.<br />

130 Vintage Villas<br />

131 La Reyna Mexican Restaurant<br />

132 <strong>Austin</strong> Executive Lodging/The Inn at Pearl Street<br />

133 Granite House<br />

134 Texas Kiln Products<br />

135 <strong>Austin</strong> Business Furniture<br />

136 Lakeway Inn<br />

137 Home Gate Studios & Suites<br />

POSTCARDS COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.


✧<br />

Above: Don Thomas in 1964.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF AUSTIN HISTORY CENTER,<br />

AUSTIN PUBLIC LIBRARY.<br />

Below: Attorney Edward Clark and<br />

influential friends in 1940. Left to right:<br />

Clark, E. H. “Commodore” Perry, Herman<br />

Brown, Lyndon B. Johnson and <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Mayor Tom Miller.<br />

CLARK,<br />

THOMAS &<br />

WINTERS,<br />

A PROFESSIONAL<br />

CORPORATION<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF NEAL DOUGLASS.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

122<br />

For 60 years, <strong>Austin</strong>’s largest law firm—<br />

Clark, Thomas & Winters, a Professional<br />

Corporation—has built a reputation on using<br />

its legal expertise to help shape the future of<br />

the city, the state and the nation itself.<br />

The firm’s roots reach deep into Texas soil.<br />

During the 1930s, Texas Attorney General<br />

James V. Allred assembled an amazing group of<br />

assistants, including future U.S. Senator Ralph<br />

Yarborough, future U.S. Supreme Court Justice<br />

Tom Clark, and Robert Anderson, Secretary of<br />

the Treasury during the Eisenhower administration.<br />

Great things also lay in store for two<br />

other assistants of the time, Everett Looney and<br />

Edward Clark, founders of the firm.<br />

Born in 1900, Looney graduated from the<br />

University of Texas School of Law in 1922, and<br />

developed a reputation during the ‘30s prosecuting<br />

antitrust cases in the Attorney General’s<br />

office. His work enhanced Allred’s reputation<br />

as a progressive trust buster and helped catapult<br />

Allred into the Governor’s Mansion.<br />

Looney was described as part of the governor’s<br />

“brain trust” during Allred’s administration.<br />

Clark, born in 1906 and a 1928 graduate of<br />

the UT law school, took an active role in state<br />

politics and was elected county attorney of<br />

San Augustine. He accepted an appointment<br />

as assistant attorney general in 1932, and<br />

enforced the state’s oil and gas conservation<br />

laws in the burgeoning East Texas Oil Field.<br />

When Allred was elected governor in 1935,<br />

he appointed Clark his right-hand man—his<br />

first secretary. Clark rapidly became known in<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> and throughout the state as one of the<br />

most influential men in government. After a<br />

constitutional amendment was passed in 1936<br />

strengthening the position of<br />

secretary of state, Allred<br />

appointed Clark to that position.<br />

As noted by Robert A.<br />

Caro in his book The Years of<br />

Lyndon Johnson: The Path to<br />

Power: “Of all the men<br />

Johnson met in <strong>Austin</strong>, Ed<br />

Clark was the one who over<br />

the long years to come, would<br />

acquire and hold the most<br />

power.”<br />

When Congressman Buck<br />

Buchanan died in 1937,<br />

Johnson announced for the position. Although<br />

Govenor Allred officially adopted a position of<br />

neutrality in the race, he detailed Clark to<br />

work on the campaign and Clark became one<br />

of Johnson’s significant fund-raisers.<br />

After Allred was appointed to the U.S.<br />

District Court bench by Franklin Roosevelt in<br />

1938, he counseled Looney and Clark to begin<br />

a law firm, believing each had talents that<br />

would complement the other. They agreed and<br />

the partnership of Looney & Clark began in<br />

December 1938. The firm’s first client was<br />

Herman Brown, a founder of Brown & Root,<br />

Inc. and owner of the recently completed<br />

Brown Building. Brown agreed to pay the law<br />

firm a monthly retainer—equal to the monthly<br />

rent—if it would locate in the new building.<br />

For the remainder of their lives, Looney<br />

and Clark participated in all Johnson campaigns.<br />

Clark served as a senior adviser and<br />

fund-raiser, Looney made speeches and<br />

worked as legal counsel. Looney also handled<br />

legal matters associated with the varied business<br />

interests of the Johnson family. Attorney<br />

Don Thomas, who joined the firm in 1944,<br />

developed a close personal friendship with<br />

Johnson and, when Looney suffered a stroke<br />

in 1958, succeeded Looney in overseeing<br />

Johnson legal matters. Subsequently, Thomas<br />

became more than the family’s business attorney<br />

by serving as president of the LBJ<br />

Company until his retirement in 1990.<br />

Clark continued his political association<br />

with Johnson through the presidential years,<br />

serving as Ambassador to Australia from 1965<br />

to 1968, U.S. Commissioner to Hemisfair in


1968, and Executive Director of the Inter-<br />

American Bank the same year.<br />

Other notable attorneys joined the firm<br />

during the ’40s. Martin Harris, a UT law<br />

school graduate, came on board in 1947. He<br />

would become one of the state’s leading attorneys<br />

in water rights. The following year, Dean<br />

Moorhead, who had graduated from<br />

Columbia Law School with the highest grade<br />

point average on record at the time and was a<br />

recipient of all three awards given to graduating<br />

seniors, left the Attorney General’s office<br />

to join the firm, which was then renamed<br />

Looney, Clark & Moorhead. Frank Denius,<br />

one of the most highly decorated soldiers<br />

during World War II, was hired in 1949.<br />

In the ’50s, Charles Mathews joined the<br />

firm. He had been the first assistant attorney<br />

general at the time administrative law was in<br />

its infancy. He participated in its development<br />

and achieved a then-unparalleled degree of<br />

expertise. As the practice of law became more<br />

specialized, he concentrated on transportation<br />

law, ultimately leaving the firm to<br />

become president of Red Ball Motor Freight.<br />

He subsequently became a state district judge<br />

until retirement.<br />

In 1955, Mary Joe Carroll became the first<br />

woman hired to practice law full-time by a<br />

major firm in Texas. Carroll, who scored<br />

highest in the state the year she took her bar<br />

exam, worked with Looney in the firm’s<br />

appellate practice. She also served as parliamentarian<br />

for Lt. Governor Ben Ramsey in<br />

the Texas Senate. This experience, in part,<br />

caused her to be selected to draft legislation<br />

for clients, including both the Open Meetings<br />

Act and the Open Records Act.<br />

Sam Winters, current chairman of the<br />

board of governors of the U.S. Postal Service,<br />

joined the firm in 1958. He, Clark and Harris<br />

handled legislative matters for clients.<br />

Winters also continued the firm’s tradition of<br />

political engagement, serving as both local<br />

and statewide manager of campaigns.<br />

Looney died in 1962, Clark in 1992. Had<br />

Looney lived as long as Clark, he would have<br />

been amazed at the growth and specialization<br />

that occurred at the firm. Charles Mathews<br />

called Looney “the last complete lawyer.” By<br />

the 1960s, the ever-increasing complexity of<br />

the law and rapidly growing areas of specialization<br />

had made it impossible for any one<br />

person to maintain competence in every category<br />

of law. Looney had continued to achieve<br />

this capability until retirement.<br />

Clark remained at the firm until his death<br />

at age 86. Still a force in politics, he continued<br />

fund-raising in his later years with a<br />

greater emphasis on philanthropic matters.<br />

He also maintained his banking interests as a<br />

member of the board of directors of several<br />

banks, and his interest in educational and historical<br />

endeavors, including his service on the<br />

boards of Southwestern University, the<br />

University of Texas and the Texas State<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Association.<br />

The firm that began as Looney & Clark<br />

became Clark, Thomas & Winters, a<br />

Professional Corporation, in 1993. As of 1998,<br />

the firm has more than 80 attorneys on staff<br />

and a total of 220 employees,<br />

providing quality comprehensive<br />

legal services to its clients.<br />

The firm’s legal specializations<br />

include antitrust, appellate,<br />

banking, business law (corporate,<br />

federal tax, securities and<br />

intellectual property), employment<br />

and labor law, energy<br />

and telecommunications,<br />

health law, insurance, legislative<br />

affairs, product liability<br />

defense, state taxation, and<br />

wills and estates.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Mary Joe Carroll joined the firm in<br />

September1955, becoming the first woman<br />

in Texas to practice law full-time with a<br />

major law firm.<br />

Below: Sam Winters introducing new U.S.<br />

Postmaster General Bill Henderson in 1998.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | THE MARKETPLACE<br />

123


✧<br />

Luci Baines Johnson, chairman of the<br />

LBJ Holding Company, and her husband<br />

Ian Turpin, who serves as the company’s<br />

president.<br />

PHOTO COURESTY OF SUNG PARK.<br />

LBJ<br />

HOLDING<br />

COMPANY<br />

Lyndon Baines Johnson’s contribution to<br />

this state’s heritage is immeasurable, from his<br />

days as a congressman up through his years as<br />

President. His influence still is felt today, as is<br />

the influence of the family and family business<br />

that bear the initials L.B.J.<br />

The family business, The LBJ Holding<br />

Company, is a multi-million dollar, diversified<br />

corporation which controls five radio stations,<br />

numerous investment interests and real<br />

estate ventures dedicated to preserving<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>’s past while providing for its future.<br />

The business began in 1943, when Claudia<br />

Taylor Johnson (better known as “Lady Bird”)<br />

used $17,500 her mother had left her to buy<br />

a tiny, 250-watt AM radio station in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

KTBC had been losing money at the rate of<br />

$600 a month, but under Lady Bird’s leadership—she<br />

did everything from hiring staff<br />

and selling air time to scrubbing the floors—<br />

the station soon became a profitable business<br />

and supplied Central Texas a much-needed<br />

link to the world.<br />

“My mother’s great affection for this community<br />

began when she was a student at the<br />

University of Texas. Like many other people,<br />

she fell in love with <strong>Austin</strong> during her college<br />

days,” says Luci Baines Johnson, chairman of<br />

The LBJ Holding Company. “And, of course,<br />

mother had a journalism degree. You take<br />

those two loves—love of her community and<br />

love of communication—and you put them<br />

together, a broadcasting interest is a very natural<br />

investment.”<br />

While Lyndon Johnson’s influence certainly<br />

benefited the station, Lady Bird took a<br />

hands-on approach to its operation. “She took<br />

to it with the kind of enthusiasm and commitment<br />

to community that she’s exhibited<br />

over her lifetime,” Luci Johnson says. “My<br />

father really had his hands full as a U.S. congressman<br />

and later senator representing the<br />

people of Texas. Somehow, my mother managed<br />

to excel as a congressional wife, mother<br />

and business woman.”<br />

The Johnson family broke new ground in<br />

broadcasting when KTBC-TV, <strong>Austin</strong>’s first<br />

television station, took to the air in 1952. An<br />

FM radio station later was added along with<br />

part ownership of a cable television system.<br />

Federal regulations required the family to sell<br />

its television station in 1972. Changes in<br />

those regulations, however, have since<br />

allowed the LBJ Company to purchase more<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

124


adio stations. Today LBJS Broadcasting<br />

Company, a partnership between the LBJ<br />

Company and Virginia-based Sinclair<br />

Communications, owns <strong>Austin</strong>’s top radio stations:<br />

KLBJ-AM and FM (which had broadcast<br />

under the KTBC call letters until the early<br />

’70s), KGSR-FM, KROX-FM and KLNC-FM.<br />

Over the years, The LBJ Holding<br />

Company’s holdings grew to include part<br />

interest in a TV station in Waco, various real<br />

estate parcels and banks. The family fortunes<br />

took a hit during the ’80s, so Luci Johnson<br />

and her husband, Ian Turpin, moved to<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> in 1992 to take a more active role in<br />

running the family business. Luci’s sister<br />

Lynda’s interest in the company was bought<br />

out. (Lynda’s home is in Virginia with her<br />

husband, U.S. Senator Charles Robb.) Today,<br />

Turpin is president of The LBJ Holding<br />

Company, but ownership remains in the<br />

hands of Lady Bird and Luci Johnson, and<br />

Luci’s children: Nicole Nugent Covert,<br />

Rebekah Johnson Nugent, Claudia Taylor<br />

Nugent and Patrick Lyndon Nugent. “The<br />

investment my mother’s mother made possible<br />

remains primarily in the hands of female<br />

ownership,” Luci Johnson says.<br />

While Luci Johnson and her husband were<br />

living in Toronto, Canada, they enjoyed being<br />

able to work and shop within walking distance<br />

of their home. The LBJ Holding<br />

Company is converting two of <strong>Austin</strong>’s historic<br />

downtown high rises, the Brown Building and<br />

Norwood Tower, into a combination of<br />

office/residential space that will allow people<br />

to live and work in downtown <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

“My father always said, ‘The best fertilizer<br />

for a man’s land is the footsteps of its owner,’”<br />

Luci Johnson says. “My husband and I are trying<br />

to encourage people to come downtown<br />

and live at the Brown Building. We felt that we<br />

needed to put our actions where our mouths<br />

were, so we’re in the process right now of<br />

returning the top two floors of the Norwood<br />

Tower to its original status as an apartment.<br />

We are moving downtown, too! We will be, so<br />

to speak, living above the store.”<br />

It is Johnson’s hope that residents who live<br />

and work in these historic buildings will<br />

return this community’s focus to downtown.<br />

“For nearly half a century, the Brown Building<br />

was the home to some of <strong>Austin</strong>’s and Texas’<br />

greatest movers and shakers,” she says. “It was<br />

home to an entire generation of people who<br />

made Texas what it is. [These buildings] are<br />

not just being preserved as relics of the past.<br />

They will be the homes of a future generation<br />

of <strong>Austin</strong> citizens who will make a profound<br />

contribution to the next millennium.”<br />

The LBJ Company, with its professional<br />

management team, now makes investments in<br />

other private businesses in <strong>Austin</strong> and the<br />

Southwest. The company uses its capital and<br />

expertise to assist other growth businesses in<br />

the area. Both the corporation and the family<br />

continues to donate time and money to many<br />

of the same causes Lyndon and Lady Bird<br />

championed for over 50 years. Public television,<br />

Seton Medical Center, Habitat for<br />

Humanity, St. Edwards University, University<br />

of Texas, Believe in Me, and the Lady Bird<br />

Johnson Wildflower Center are just a few of<br />

the causes the family supports.<br />

“What is my dream for the future for The<br />

LBJ Holding Company? To grow the company<br />

and be a credit to it and to be a credit to the<br />

heritage that my mother built and this community<br />

provided,” Luci Johnson says. “The LBJ<br />

Holding Company and the LBJ family have<br />

been blessed to be a part of a very precious<br />

heritage, both in our business and as citizens<br />

for this community. And so our desire is to give<br />

back to and reflect well upon that heritage.”<br />

✧<br />

Luci Baines Johnson and Ian Turpin on the<br />

roof of the Brown Building, a historic<br />

downtown highrise that is currently being<br />

renovated by the LBJ Holding Company.<br />

The goal of the project is to turn the Brown<br />

Building into residential lofts that will allow<br />

people to live as well as work in downtown<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> and to return the community’s focus<br />

to the downtown area.<br />

PHOTO COURESTY OF SUNG PARK.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | THE MARKETPLACE<br />

125


UNIVERSITY<br />

CO-OPERATIVE<br />

SOCIETY<br />

✧<br />

Top, left: George H. Mitchell, President,<br />

University Co-operative Society from May<br />

1987 to present.<br />

Top, right: Dr. Robert Hamilton, Chairman<br />

of the Board, University Co-operative<br />

Society from 1989 to present.<br />

Opposite, top: Co-op East, located at 26th<br />

Street and Medical Arts, was built to service<br />

the nursing, law school and LBJ School of<br />

Public Affairs.<br />

Opposite, bottom: The Dabny House<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

126<br />

For more than 102 years the University<br />

Co-op has been providing students, faculty,<br />

alumni, and staff at the University of Texas<br />

with reasonably priced materials for academic<br />

life. Patterned after the student bookstore<br />

at Harvard, the UT Co-op is a nonprofit corporation<br />

owned by its members—the students,<br />

faculty, and staff of the university—and<br />

governed by a board of directors. It calls itself<br />

“a college department store serving the university<br />

community” and specializes in textbooks<br />

(for the university as well as <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Community College), school supplies, computer<br />

software, and photographic supplies<br />

along with a wide variety of University of<br />

Texas–licensed merchandise and apparel.<br />

“Last year almost $600,000 was given back to<br />

students in rebates,” says George Mitchell,<br />

Co-op president. “All our profits go to the<br />

university. Nearly $500,000 was given as gifts<br />

last year.”<br />

The Co-op was founded in 1896 by Dr.<br />

William J. Battle, a professor of the Greek language<br />

who later served as president of the<br />

university from 1914 to 1916. Disappointed<br />

with the services and high book prices<br />

charged by a privately owned bookstore on<br />

campus, Dr. Battle organized support for creating<br />

a bookstore like the Harvard Co-op that<br />

was an association owned by students, faculty,<br />

and staff to furnish books, supplies, and<br />

clothing at discounted prices to its members.<br />

The original store opened on campus—it was<br />

located in the university’s Main Building—<br />

with books, stationery, and athletic goods and<br />

the intent to sell its products to students at<br />

the lowest possible prices.<br />

Twenty-two years later (1918) the Co-op<br />

moved off campus to a one-story building<br />

across from the Student Union Center on<br />

Guadalupe and started selling merchandise to<br />

local citizens as well. With rising profits in<br />

the 1920s, the Co-op contributed to a fund<br />

drive to build a new athletic stadium and<br />

enlarge the campus from its original 40 acres.<br />

By 1935, the Co-op had to expand to meet<br />

the needs of a growing student body. “There<br />

were new additions to the building about<br />

every ten years,” says Mitchell.<br />

In 1972, the Co-op purchased the Dabney-<br />

Horne House located at 23rd Street and<br />

Nueces. This historical house was built<br />

in 1884 by Robert Dabney, who was not<br />

only one of the founders of the <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Theological Seminary but also a professor at<br />

the university. Subsequently, this building<br />

was restored and used as office space as the<br />

Co-op expanded.<br />

Over the last ten years Professor Robert W.<br />

Hamilton, the chairperson of the University<br />

Co-op Board of Directors and the Minerva<br />

House Drysdale Regents Chair in Law at the<br />

University of Texas School of Law, and Mr.<br />

George Mitchell, president of the Co-op since


UNIVERSITY CO-OPERATIVE<br />

SOCIETY BOARD MEMBERS<br />

(1998–99):<br />

Dr. Mark A. Lemley<br />

Faculty Director<br />

1987, have guided the Co-op through a substantial<br />

period of growth.<br />

After experimenting with the sale of different<br />

products and services, the Co-op has<br />

focused on being a bookstore. No other store<br />

in the country sells as many used textbooks<br />

as the University Co-op. In fact, it is the<br />

largest college bookstore in the southwestern<br />

United States.<br />

To service the LBJ School of Public Affairs,<br />

UT Law School, and Nursing School on the<br />

opposite side of campus, in 1994 the Co-op<br />

built Co-op East on the corner of Medical<br />

Arts Parkway and 26th Street. Two years<br />

later, the Co-op bought the adjacent space<br />

on Guadalupe from its long-time neighbor,<br />

Wallace’s College Book Company, and then<br />

leased its main store to Barnes & Noble,<br />

the nation’s largest bookstore chain, for the<br />

sale of tradebooks.<br />

“We are continuing our tradition of selling<br />

textbooks, UT apparel, and school supplies<br />

from a location convenient to the students<br />

and university community,” says Mitchell.<br />

Dr. Michael G. Hall<br />

Faculty Director<br />

Dr. Michael H. Granof<br />

Faculty Director<br />

Professor Martha F. Hilley<br />

Faculty Director<br />

Emily Boon<br />

Student Director<br />

Matt Grayson<br />

Student Director<br />

Stacy Hays<br />

Student Director<br />

Ryan Runkle<br />

Student Director<br />

Sharing the Heritage | THE MARKETPLACE<br />

127


AUSTIN<br />

FOREX<br />

INTERNATIONAL,<br />

INC.<br />

✧<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Forex International founder and<br />

CEO Russell Erxleben.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

128<br />

People worry about money. Questions<br />

about money matters, like “do I have<br />

enough?” or “how can I make more?” can<br />

plague the average person several times a day.<br />

To alleviate such financial stress and strain,<br />

a formidable array of institutions and experts<br />

stand ready, willing, and able to help anyone<br />

understand (and hopefully profit from) its<br />

transactional fluidity.<br />

For the prudent and solvent individual<br />

armed with the right information, investing is<br />

habitual, commonplace, and not terribly<br />

risky. However, one arena average investors<br />

rarely venture by conscious choice is the<br />

realm of foreign currency exchange.<br />

While nearly everyone is peripherally<br />

involved in foreign exchange through mortgages,<br />

bank accounts, or other dollar-driven<br />

investments, only individuals with a yen for<br />

active participation in currency trading actually<br />

do so.<br />

Russell Erxleben, the University of Texas at<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> football legend and founder of <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Forex International, is such an individual.<br />

Following an impressive career as a Texas<br />

Longhorn and 3-time All-American, Erxleben<br />

spent 8 years in the National Football League<br />

as a field goal kicker, arguably the most<br />

stressful position to play. It’s easy to see that<br />

his ability to succeed and thrive under enormous<br />

pressure on the field contributes to his<br />

growing status as a major player in the highly<br />

volatile currency trading environment.<br />

After retiring from professional football in<br />

1988, Erxleben, 41, dabbled in real estate<br />

investments. He devoted attention to business<br />

ventures like telecommunications, but<br />

became intrigued by the foreign exchange<br />

market in 1993, after a broker friend persuaded<br />

him to invest some of his own money.<br />

At first, Erxleben experienced some<br />

uncomfortable losses while scaling the learning<br />

curve. In time, he not only learned, but<br />

managed to excel in the foreign currency<br />

exchange business that was once the sole<br />

province of major financial institutions.<br />

The foreign currency market moves the<br />

astronomical sum of $2.5 trillion around the<br />

globe every day; however, less than 20 percent<br />

is generated through this country. “It is<br />

intriguing how much money flows through<br />

this market daily,” Erxleben explains, “it


would take a total of 90 days in the U.S. stock<br />

market to equal the amount of money invested<br />

daily in foreign currency trading.”<br />

Before the creation of <strong>Austin</strong> Forex<br />

International in 1996, investors had few<br />

options available to them in the foreign currency<br />

market. Virtually shut out of the market,<br />

private investors had nowhere to go.<br />

Now, with as little as $20,000 to speculate,<br />

and <strong>Austin</strong> Forex International’s guidance,<br />

investors can take advantage of a market that<br />

yields significantly higher returns in a shorter<br />

time frame than even the most aggressive traditional<br />

investment vehicles.<br />

Since opening for business with fewer than<br />

a dozen active clients and a trading volume of<br />

about $500,000, <strong>Austin</strong> Forex International<br />

has become one of the leaders in its field. “We<br />

want to become the top foreign currency trading<br />

company in America,” Erxleben says,<br />

adding, “I feel we are on the right track.”<br />

Still, foreign currency trading is not for the<br />

timid. Erxleben’s style and trading philosophy,<br />

however, are cautious. These attributes<br />

and a depth of knowledge he insists on<br />

among his broker associates, appear to be<br />

paying dividends for everyone involved.<br />

Along with technical expertise, there are<br />

fundamental values at play at <strong>Austin</strong> Forex<br />

International, including high integrity,<br />

frequent communication between broker<br />

and client, and rational objectives that<br />

remain consistent with prudent stewardship<br />

of client funds.<br />

Much of what happens with an <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Forex client’s money occurs overnight in the<br />

central time zone as the company deals with<br />

German marks, Swiss francs, the British<br />

pound and Japanese yen.<br />

That’s why Erxleben begins his day at 3:30<br />

a.m. After exercising, he’s generally at his<br />

desk an hour later. Remarkably, it’s not<br />

uncommon for him to make a mid-to-high<br />

six-figure profit for the firm before lunch.<br />

It has been said that he has an innate feel<br />

for anticipating market shifts and understands<br />

how and why an impending sociopolitical<br />

circumstance will alter the dynamics<br />

of the market at any given time.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Forex International commissioned<br />

E-Forex of San Francisco to develop Broker<br />

FX, a sophisticated software system that is<br />

used by brokers to facilitate trades. Using cutting<br />

edge computers and telecommunications,<br />

transactions a world away can be completed<br />

in as little as 7 seconds.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Forex International has also developed<br />

banking models that ensures a direct<br />

relationship with major international banks.<br />

This gives clients an edge as well in terms of<br />

minimizing the response time required for<br />

making trades in an ever-shifting market.<br />

Importantly, secure banking relationships<br />

more often than not reduces commissions<br />

paid to intermediaries.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Forex International occupies<br />

expansive offices on the 19th floor of the 100<br />

South Congress building. Looking to the<br />

future, the firm plans to open multiple offices<br />

in major cities throughout the world. Each<br />

office will employ 30 to 50 brokers.<br />

Imbued with a yen for active participation<br />

in currency trading, Erxleben, his associates<br />

and the customers of <strong>Austin</strong> Forex<br />

International plan to continue and enlarge on<br />

their success in the exciting and rewarding<br />

foreign currency exchange marketplace.<br />

Additional useful information about the<br />

company is available on the Internet at<br />

www.austinforex.com.<br />

✧<br />

Erxleben conducts intensive training<br />

sessions for FEI broker/associates.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | THE MARKETPLACE<br />

129


✧<br />

PHOTOS BY PAUL CATER DEATON.<br />

VINTAGE<br />

VILLAS<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

130<br />

Overlooking beautiful<br />

Lake Travis, only<br />

30 minutes from<br />

downtown <strong>Austin</strong>,<br />

Vintage Villas can<br />

meet your needs<br />

when it comes to corporate<br />

retreat/conference<br />

facilities, or<br />

providing an early<br />

Texas-style bed and<br />

breakfast setting.<br />

Vintage Villas<br />

offers three separate<br />

villas containing a<br />

total of 40 rooms and<br />

three suites, all with a<br />

panoramic view of<br />

Lake Travis. Each villa<br />

is named and decorated in the style of a particular<br />

region of Texas—South, Central, and<br />

East. While rooms at most other hotels are<br />

monotonously the same, each of the Vintage<br />

Villas’ rooms and suites is uniquely decorated<br />

with its own custom designed bedding,<br />

antiques and original works of art by several<br />

leading local and Southwestern artists.<br />

Companies needing a quiet location for a<br />

business conference or retreat will enjoy a<br />

choice of meeting rooms and individual<br />

suites, each with duplex jacks allowing private<br />

phone/computer/fax service, and a 27-<br />

inch TV with built-in VCR. Each guest room<br />

also contains a microwave, coffeemaker,<br />

refrigerator with frost-free icemaker, and individual<br />

climate control.<br />

Since opening in December 1996, a large<br />

number of corporate accounts have enjoyed<br />

the “conference/retreat friendly” atmosphere<br />

the villas provides.<br />

Corporate guests often<br />

reserve an entire villa for a<br />

relaxed and self-contained<br />

meeting place. From the<br />

meeting room to the breakout<br />

rooms, the feeling is<br />

more than that of just a typical<br />

meeting. One conference<br />

participant stated, “this<br />

wasn’t just a meeting—this<br />

was an experience.”<br />

Conferences and retreats are just part of<br />

the activities at Vintage Villas. At any given<br />

time, the Villas draws guests from all over the<br />

world—recent visitors have hailed from Mexico,<br />

Canada, Europe, and the Far East. Wedding parties,<br />

in particular, are fond of the Vintage Villas<br />

and its unique design. In addition to providing a<br />

“home away from home” for the bride, groom,<br />

their families and friends, the adjacent wedding<br />

and event center is the perfect setting for wedding<br />

ceremonies and receptions.<br />

A continental breakfast is set up in the living<br />

room of each villa each morning with a<br />

selection of fresh muffins, pastries, juices and<br />

coffee awaiting the early risers. A full gourmet<br />

breakfast is served each morning in the dining<br />

room. The menu varies and provides<br />

items from crab cakes to pancakes.<br />

For those who want to take advantage of<br />

lake activities, Vintage Villas is only seven minutes<br />

from four different marinas. Three of<br />

Central Texas’ finest golf course are 10 minutes<br />

away, and it is just a short drive to <strong>Austin</strong> to<br />

enjoy the many activities the capital city has to<br />

offer. The Slaughter Leftwich Winery is nearby,<br />

and group tours of historic Hill Country communities,<br />

antique shops, and outlet malls can<br />

be arranged.<br />

For those wanting to relax, Vintage Villas<br />

provides a complimentary library of books and<br />

videos that you can enjoy in the comfort of<br />

your own room or suite.


LA REYNA<br />

MEXICAN<br />

RESTAURANT<br />

Among south Texans conventional wisdom<br />

has it that really authentic, restaurant-prepared<br />

“Tex-Mex” cuisine can’t be found anywhere<br />

north of, say, San Antonio.<br />

Aficionados would also agree with the<br />

term ‘cuisine’, since the real thing is as<br />

deserving of that appellation as any food category<br />

found in LaRusse Gastronomique.<br />

Today, the slangy (probably politically<br />

incorrect), idiomatic name of this regional<br />

culinary staple is often referred to as Norteno<br />

and nowhere is the art practiced better than at<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>’s La Reyna Mexican Restaurant.<br />

This modest, unassuming establishment<br />

on the city’s near south end, is one of those<br />

off-the-beaten-track eateries frequented, for<br />

the most part, by savvy locals, some of whom<br />

enjoy a measure of celebrity.<br />

Owner Vicente Hernandez is originally<br />

from Saltillo, Mexico. He arrived in <strong>Austin</strong> in<br />

1963, bringing with him a family tradition of<br />

bread baking, that led to the opening in 1974<br />

of La Reyna Bakery, which soon became a<br />

mecca of sorts on West Mary Street.<br />

The shift toward what is now the restaurant<br />

began, as these things occasionally do,<br />

with bakery patrons asking for coffee to<br />

accompany a morning pastry. “Next thing you<br />

know, people were asking for breakfast tacos,”<br />

Hernandez recalls.<br />

Gradually, a full menu developed, the bakery<br />

operation was integrated into the restaurant<br />

and the two co-existed through a period<br />

of growth in the 1980s that resulted in a<br />

three-location operation.<br />

“That became just too much,” said<br />

Hernandez, who feared that his reputation for<br />

quality and service was being compromised.<br />

Scaling back, the satellite restaurants were<br />

closed in 1990 and the bakery was sold to one<br />

of the employees who eventually relocated to<br />

a site two blocks south of the original location.<br />

The restaurant was then expanded to include<br />

both indoor and patio dining, as well as a<br />

commodious room for private functions.<br />

The ambience of La Reyna Mexican<br />

Restaurant appeals to employees, as well as<br />

patrons. Most of the kitchen and wait staff<br />

have been with Hernandez an average of eight<br />

to ten years. The present chief cook, Mrs.<br />

Marianna Mendez has been turning out “The<br />

Number One in Homemade Mexican Food in<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>” for the better part of 22 years.<br />

La Reyna employs 25 persons in all,<br />

including the owner’s son, Vincent John, and<br />

daughters, Rosemary and Linda Hernandez.<br />

As to the claim about being the best,<br />

here’s what one <strong>Austin</strong> food critic said about<br />

La Reyna:<br />

“El mejor...this is the authentic stuff. There<br />

is one valid reason that La Reyna enjoys landmark<br />

status and it can be summed up in one<br />

word: homemade!”<br />

But you can’t eat words, so a visit is in order.<br />

La Reyna, at 1816 South First Street, is open 7<br />

days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner.<br />

✧<br />

La familia (from left): David, Rosemary,<br />

Vincent John, Maria Theresa, Vickie,<br />

Hortencia and Vicente Hernandez.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF JULIE FERNÁNDEZ.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | THE MARKETPLACE<br />

131


✧<br />

Above: The inn sits high above MLK Drive<br />

at its intersection with Pearl Street.<br />

Below: Inviting, classical Euro-style<br />

guest room.<br />

AUSTIN<br />

EXECUTIVE<br />

LODGING/<br />

THE INN AT<br />

PEARL STREET<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

132<br />

Frommer’s Guide provides<br />

comprehensive information<br />

about <strong>Austin</strong><br />

accommodations, listing<br />

everything from high end<br />

resorts to lodging for the<br />

budget-minded business<br />

and leisure traveler.<br />

Although profiled in the<br />

Bed & Breakfast section of<br />

the current edition, The<br />

Inn at Pearl Street is decidedly<br />

atypical of the genre.<br />

Owner Jill Bickford’s<br />

gemlike labor of love is<br />

more akin to the diminutive<br />

country inns of Europe<br />

than the typical mom and pop enterprise of<br />

North America.<br />

Bickford is also the owner of <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Executive Lodging (AEL) (www.austinlodging.com)<br />

and from the dynamics of that hospitality<br />

category, has established a modus<br />

operandi for The Inn at Pearl Street<br />

(www.innpearl.com) that she believes is more<br />

suited to contemporary “home away from<br />

home” lifestyle demands.<br />

And while the gracious, even opulent<br />

surroundings are in keeping with a classic<br />

B&B, the management style is attentive but<br />

unobtrusive. A full breakfast is served on<br />

weekends (including champagne on Sundays);<br />

during the week guests may elect to help themselves<br />

to a European-style variety of morning<br />

goodies. House privileges extend to one’s own<br />

entry key, permitting access at any hour.<br />

“We’re cognizant of the time pressures<br />

people are under today and want our guests<br />

to feel we’re a haven from constraints of any<br />

kind,” Bickford says.<br />

An avid collector, Bickford antiques and<br />

collectibles dominate the interiors, providing<br />

an eclectic sensory adventure. Erté statuettes<br />

share space with Victorian and Texas oak<br />

primitives, yet nothing is sacred.<br />

“It’s all here to be shared and enjoyed,”<br />

said the innkeeper. “We don’t want anyone to<br />

feel as though they have to tiptoe around for<br />

fear of breaking something.”<br />

Situated in the heart of <strong>Austin</strong>’s Uptown<br />

Cultural District, this 1896 Greek Revival was<br />

rescued in 1993. With help from the owner’s<br />

parents, Burton and Victoria Bickford, it has<br />

been lovingly restored to its near-original<br />

turn-of-the-century charm.<br />

The first official record of the property can<br />

be found in the <strong>Austin</strong> City Directory of 1914<br />

when it was the private residence of a prominent<br />

Texas jurist. In the early 1980s, it was<br />

briefly used as a movie set even as it was<br />

falling to ruin.<br />

Nearly two years and a tidy sum of money<br />

went into the meticulous restoration, much of<br />

it accomplished by Bickford’s father, a retired<br />

dentist who could easily have earned a significant<br />

reputation as a master cabinet maker.<br />

While the overall ambience bespeaks a<br />

reverence for the past, the modern touches—<br />

-stylish bathrooms in each guest suite, the<br />

cobblestone drive, and a 1,600 square foot<br />

deck—blend in artfully.<br />

At this writing there are four bedrooms;<br />

however, once the adjacent Burton House<br />

(named for Dr. Burton Bickford) has been<br />

restored Bickford anticipates being able to<br />

offer a total of nine rooms and suites.<br />

She sees her B&B property as a natural<br />

extension of <strong>Austin</strong> Executive Lodging, a<br />

business she has grown over the past 18<br />

years. AEL provides one- and two-bedroom<br />

furnished apartments throughout the city for<br />

extended stay rental.<br />

“With The Inn at Pearl Street we can now<br />

offer a unique setting for the business traveler<br />

in a near-town location,” Bickford says.


Granite House is a leading film, video, and<br />

multimedia company in a city that is now the<br />

heart of the Texas film industry. Directed by<br />

three partners with diverse but complementary<br />

skills, the company produces films and<br />

commercials for national network television<br />

as well as video and multimedia for a variety<br />

of clients including high-technology giants<br />

such as Dell, Tivoli Systems, and VTEL; oldline<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> companies such as County Line<br />

Restaurants and Thundercloud Subs; and<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> institutions from the University of<br />

Texas to Scholtz’s Beer Garden. “Ours is one<br />

of the emerging companies that make content<br />

for the <strong>Austin</strong> market and worldwide,” says<br />

Dwight Adair, Granite House president.<br />

An avid filmmaker since high school,<br />

Adair moved to Los Angeles twenty years ago,<br />

where he started as a dialog coach on the<br />

movie Urban Cowboy. “It was a way to get into<br />

the business sideways,” he says. For the next<br />

fifteen years he and his wife, Sandra, worked<br />

in the Los Angeles film industry.<br />

By the time they returned to<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> in 1993, Adair had been a<br />

director of prime-time TV shows<br />

such as Dallas and Dynasty, and<br />

Sandra had several feature films<br />

and documentaries to her credit<br />

as an editor. They saw <strong>Austin</strong> as<br />

a place where the film industry<br />

was growing, a place where “we<br />

could control our own destiny,”<br />

says Adair.<br />

While Sandra edited films for<br />

emerging auteur Richard<br />

Linklater, Dwight pooled his talents<br />

with other like-minded individuals,<br />

including Mike Martin,<br />

whose 17 years’ experience as a<br />

producer and cinematographer in<br />

television meshed with Adair’s<br />

vision of creating a regional independent<br />

motion picture company.<br />

They incorporated Granite<br />

House in 1994. One year later<br />

the company was producing She<br />

Fought Alone, a made-for-TV<br />

movie for NBC.<br />

Lucy Frost joined the company<br />

in 1995, bringing expertise in<br />

high-tech marketing. The three partners<br />

began to combine entertainment, information,<br />

and technology in marketing, training,<br />

sales, and image videos for Granite House’s<br />

growing list of corporate clients, which<br />

include some of <strong>Austin</strong>’s leading hightechnology<br />

companies. Today, roughly 80<br />

percent of the company’s revenues come from<br />

producing films, videos, CD-ROMs, Web<br />

sites, and commercials for its high-profile corporate<br />

clients.<br />

Granite House has continued to increase its<br />

offerings through strategic alliances with other<br />

media companies, including Infinite Solutions<br />

Design Group, specialists in graphic design<br />

and interactive media, and Creative<br />

Consultants, well-known corporate and special<br />

event planners. “We are atypical in that we<br />

have fingers in a lot of pies,” says Adair. “The<br />

demand for content—movies, TV, cable, internet—is<br />

voracious,” he adds. “Granite House<br />

definitely will continue to be a provider.”<br />

GRANITE<br />

HOUSE<br />

✧<br />

(Left to right) Michael Martin, Lucy Frost<br />

and Dwight Adair.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | THE MARKETPLACE<br />

133


TEXAS KILN<br />

PRODUCTS<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

134<br />

Those who try to eke out a living from the<br />

harsh, unforgiving land of the U.S.<br />

Southwest, feel about mesquite trees as they<br />

do about predators with a taste for livestock.<br />

Like the loathsome cockroach that can survive<br />

thermonuclear assault, the mesquite<br />

thrives during the worst of times; when the<br />

water table permits, it will suck up 35 gallons<br />

of water a day, but it laughs at drought and<br />

grows more bean pods.<br />

Enough to lockjaw the preacher and give<br />

weeds a bad name!<br />

Ray and Bo Shelton redefine the pejorative<br />

“tree hugger.” Like a good woman loves her<br />

babies, the brothers love mesquite.<br />

As do growing numbers of aficionados who<br />

buy the Native Texas Wood products that flow<br />

from the Shelton’s Texas Kiln Products (TKP)<br />

operation in nearby Smithville.<br />

Ray Shelton is president and CEO of the<br />

thriving company he created from whole<br />

cloth in 1988. He’d spent a career in the semiconductor<br />

industry with Texas Instruments<br />

and later in <strong>Austin</strong> with Motorola. At<br />

Louisiana State University, he’d studied an<br />

array of subjects, ranging from architecture to<br />

metallurgy. Retired and casting about for new<br />

challenges, Ray thought his affinity for woodworking<br />

and awareness of the marketability<br />

of Louisiana cypress could somehow translate<br />

into a viable business.<br />

He soon re-learned that Texans (the brothers<br />

are from these parts) are disdainful of natural<br />

materials that don’t grow here.<br />

The 25-acre site of Texas Kiln Products<br />

was dense with mesquite—as are 55 million<br />

Texas acres—and Ray set out to learn as much<br />

about the gnarly, gritty, ornery stuff as possible.<br />

In the process much else was learned<br />

about all manner of native trees, and today<br />

TKP and its proprietors are considered<br />

experts in the field. Their customers range<br />

from architects and artisans to some of the<br />

nation’s renowned furniture makers.<br />

The kiln-drying techniques developed by<br />

TKP, as well as the computerized kilns invented<br />

and built enable them to produce mesquite<br />

and pecan boards in thickness and lengths<br />

previously unattainable.<br />

Ray and Bo Shelton are proudest of two<br />

accomplishments in their relatively short history.<br />

One centers on the company providing<br />

rewarding opportunities for their dozen<br />

employees and their families, as well as the<br />

several tree harvesting concerns that they<br />

helped get started.<br />

Their most publicized accomplishment<br />

was their involvement in salvaging and processing<br />

the vandalized sections of <strong>Austin</strong>’s<br />

historic Treaty Oak, some of which has since<br />

been used in the State Capital and the<br />

Governor’s mansion.<br />

Among the roughly 10,000 board feet of<br />

native Texas timber the company processes each<br />

month mesquite represents fully half the output.<br />

The balance is comprised of Pecan, Red<br />

and White Oak, Walnut, Aromatic Cedar,<br />

Loblolly Pine, Sycamore and Tidewater Cypress.<br />

Many of <strong>Austin</strong>’s more upscale homes featuring<br />

flooring, staircases or cabinetry started life at<br />

TPK. Among recent institutional projects that<br />

boast extensive native wood treatments are the<br />

Bass Concert Hall in Fort Worth and the Dallas<br />

headquarters of the Southland Corporation.


Imagine for a moment a ’90s remake of<br />

the film The Graduate. Cut to the<br />

scene where the boozy sage whispers knowingly<br />

into Dustin Hoffman’s ear the admonition,<br />

“Plastics.” Today’s scriptwriter would<br />

likely substitute “mergers and acquisitions”<br />

or “internet.”<br />

But what about “office furniture”?<br />

Ask Jay Femal, president of <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Business Furniture, and he’d likely tell you<br />

that such advice, while a lot less glamorous<br />

than high finance or cyberspace, would serve<br />

one well as a career choice.<br />

Femal, as he surveys his tasteful showroom<br />

located at 9901 Burnet Road in <strong>Austin</strong>, recalls<br />

his beginnings in the business, when fresh<br />

out of college he worked for what was then a<br />

major player in the industry, Shaw Walker,<br />

inventors of the modern day filing cabinet.<br />

“I’m not sure I consciously knew it at the<br />

time, but it seemed to me to be a very stable,<br />

necessary business,” Femal said.<br />

He goes on to point out that white collar<br />

commerce as we know it today, is a business<br />

revolution that has a relatively short history.<br />

“The advent of the cubicle, and a growing<br />

[even today] cadre of workers whose livelihood<br />

is inextricably linked to a desk, is only<br />

about 50 years old,” Femal notes, adding, “so<br />

the future of the office furniture<br />

industry is limitless.”<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Business Furniture,<br />

with its 25 employees, began as a<br />

liquidating subsidiary of the nowdefunct<br />

Able Contract Furniture<br />

and Equipment Company. That<br />

was in 1985.<br />

Enjoying a steady, if unspectacular,<br />

growth rate for more than a<br />

decade, ABF has been able to<br />

make a long-term commitment to<br />

the business and design entities of<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> and Central Texas.<br />

In 1992, for example, ABF<br />

became the region’s exclusive distributor<br />

of Kimball International,<br />

one of the largest manufacturers<br />

in the $18 billion annual office<br />

furniture market.<br />

The year 1996 was a watershed<br />

year for <strong>Austin</strong> Business<br />

Furniture, according to Femal. At the start of<br />

that year, Kimball rolled out its Office<br />

Furniture Group, essentially a joint venture<br />

encompassing the lines of Kimball, National<br />

and Harpers, which together comprised more<br />

than 100 years of manufacturing and marketing<br />

experience.<br />

In 1998, <strong>Austin</strong> Business Furniture took<br />

another step forward, when it became aligned<br />

with HON Industries’ Contract Group to<br />

become distributors for such prestigious<br />

products as Allsteel, Terrace and Concensys.<br />

“We now have in place what we feel is<br />

a complete package,” Femal concluded,<br />

“total best solutions for every conceivable<br />

customer.”<br />

Commercial furniture dealerships rely<br />

totally on their manufacturers to change and<br />

adapt to new technology.<br />

“The close of the millennium will initiate a<br />

paradigm shift in our industry,” Femal says,<br />

predicating this statement on his belief that<br />

technology will result in a lessened emphasis<br />

on traditional white collar careers.<br />

Femal’s positioning of ABF, therefore is<br />

expressed in “the belief that we must help our<br />

customers create workspaces that advance<br />

their strategic intent in a manner that allows<br />

for future change.<br />

AUSTIN<br />

BUSINESS<br />

FURNITURE<br />

✧<br />

C3 Communications Facilities Manager,<br />

John Garcia (left) and Jay Femal, President<br />

of <strong>Austin</strong> Business Furniture, enjoy the<br />

results of a multi-floor modular furniture<br />

installation at C3’s new <strong>Austin</strong><br />

Headquarters.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | THE MARKETPLACE<br />

135


LAKEWAY INN<br />

✧<br />

Top: Aerial view of Lakeway Inn<br />

and Marina.<br />

Middle: Typical guest room.<br />

Bottom: Construction was underway in<br />

1998 on a new addition to Lakeway Inn.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

136<br />

Visionary developers, like<br />

cosmetic surgeons, or graphic<br />

artists, have a knack for seeing<br />

possibilities—the trees<br />

and the forest.<br />

Exceptional developers<br />

like Flint Sawtelle, Lee<br />

Blocker and John Crooker<br />

dreamed big and worked on a<br />

large canvas.<br />

In 1962, the trio pondered<br />

a spit of land jutting out into<br />

Lake Travis and saw a site for<br />

a world-class resort, where,<br />

on that Spring morning, most<br />

folks would have seen a sunbleached,<br />

rocky and perfectly<br />

ordinary chunk of land. By the fall of that<br />

same year, Lakeway Inn, at a modest 49<br />

rooms became a reality—an instant success,<br />

destined to become a Texas classic.<br />

Each succeeding year and decade, something<br />

new and enticing was added. Golf was<br />

enjoying its first boom when, in 1965, work<br />

was completed on the first nine holes of the<br />

Live Oak Course. That coincided with the<br />

addition of 31 new guest rooms at the Inn, and<br />

a second nine holes was added shortly thereafter.<br />

Lakeway’s other championship venue,<br />

the Yaupon Course was completed in 1978.<br />

The surrounding community of Lakeway<br />

evolved in fits and starts in those early years,<br />

but began to show signs of its present-day<br />

growth spurt once the Jack Nicklaus-designed<br />

Hills Golf Course was in place in 1981-82.<br />

The first remodeling of Lakeway Inn was<br />

accomplished in 1987 and despite the economic<br />

downturn, new ownership/management<br />

commitments ensured that the resort<br />

remained vastly popular.<br />

Lend Lease Real Estate Investments is the<br />

present owner of Lakeway Inn, which is managed<br />

by Dolce International, a leading, global<br />

conference center/resort management company.<br />

Dolce currently manages 12 properties in<br />

the U.S., Canada and Europe, and has a<br />

vision toward expanding their respective<br />

ownership/management portfolio to 35 properties<br />

in five years.<br />

One result of that partnership involves a<br />

major, $20 million expansion at the Inn,<br />

undertaken in 1998. A new, multi-story building<br />

will be the resort’s centerpiece, while the<br />

existing Inn will be completely renovated to<br />

provide expanded dining and leisure facilities.<br />

Importantly, the Inn will grow to 239<br />

rooms and suites while total meeting room<br />

space will burgeon to 20,000 square feet.<br />

Enhancements will include a dedicated learning<br />

environment, complete with cutting edge<br />

communications technology.<br />

But the essence of Lakeway Inn, as always,<br />

is embodied in its captivating Hill Country<br />

setting, an attentive and amiable staff, exceptional<br />

dining venues, and a stunning array of<br />

leisure activities. For more information, visit<br />

their Web site, www.dolce.com.


Seldom do preservationists go to alert status<br />

if a threatened property is younger than<br />

100 years old—unless it once sheltered someone<br />

famous or (in Texas) notorious. And no<br />

building-huggers worthy of their Timberlands<br />

would get exercised over a commercial property<br />

built in 1961. No one spends emotion on<br />

concrete block motels, it seems.<br />

So, there was no hand wringing at the back<br />

end of the 1980s, when one of near-south<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>’s interstate travel havens was empty and<br />

fast becoming just another off-ramp derelict.<br />

Today, what beckons to the road-weary or<br />

the new arrival looking for a temporary<br />

home, is the HomeGate Studios and Suites.<br />

Given the times and <strong>Austin</strong>’s boom economy,<br />

the HomeGate extended stay concept is<br />

arguably one of the best in a history of incarnations<br />

for the lakefront property.<br />

That it would and should have been rescued<br />

goes without saying. The 6.5 acres surrounding<br />

the lodging is only one of a handful<br />

of commercial sites on Town Lake and it<br />

boasts 1,000 feet of water frontage.<br />

When first built and christened, The<br />

Ramada Gondolier, the pseudo-Venetian decor<br />

made it unique for its time and locale, and<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>ites suspended disbelief long enough to<br />

enjoy its diversions, including moonlight<br />

excursions aboard mock canal boats.<br />

Now guests at the HomeGate can watch<br />

lithe athletes of the University of Texas rowing<br />

team flexing their way upstream and<br />

down, nudging aside wisps of morning haze.<br />

Joggers and cyclists can be seen, or joined<br />

as they take advantage of the shaded pathways<br />

along the far shore. And guests who<br />

bring along their gear and own a<br />

license, can even fish from the<br />

hotel’s private fishing dock, one of<br />

only a handful still in existence on<br />

this dammed-up stretch of the<br />

Colorado River.<br />

Although operated successfully<br />

for the better part of 25 years by its<br />

chain builder/owners, market forces<br />

and a shift in the commercial growth<br />

pattern of <strong>Austin</strong> resulted in decline<br />

in occupancy and profitability.<br />

It was briefly known as Riverside<br />

Quarters and employed by the<br />

University of Texas as an off-campus student<br />

dormitory. During the financial unpleasantness<br />

of 1989-91, the Resolution Trust<br />

Corporation auctioned off the property for a<br />

scant 15% of its book value and it wasn’t until<br />

1994 and its acquisition by another national<br />

chain that the hotel was reborn and again<br />

became a viable property.<br />

Today, it has regained nearly the full measure<br />

of its early popularity. Prime Hospitality<br />

Corporation following its 1997 merger with<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>-based HomeGate Hospitality, Inc.<br />

added the Town Lake landmark to its growing<br />

portfolio of extended stay hotels.<br />

Each expansive studio and suite offers<br />

a fully-equipped kitchen and work area,<br />

complete with state of the art direct dial dataport<br />

telephones and voice mail. Lake front<br />

guest accommodations all have accessible balconies<br />

and spacious common areas also boast<br />

lake views.<br />

And, although overnight guests are always<br />

welcome, HomeGate is an ideal close-to-town<br />

haven for those anticipating a protracted stay.<br />

✧<br />

HOMEGATE<br />

STUDIOS &<br />

SUITES<br />

Above: The north lobby lounge area features<br />

towering windows and a balcony (not<br />

shown) overlooking Town Lake.<br />

Below: Palladian-style windows and a porte<br />

cochere welcome guests to the HomeGate,<br />

which fronts on Riverside Drive.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | THE MARKETPLACE<br />

137


QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

140 Westminster Manor<br />

142 Huston-Tillotson College<br />

144 Clinical Pathology Laboratories, Inc.<br />

146 City of <strong>Austin</strong> Department of Aviation<br />

148 Cardiovascular and Thoracic Surgeons<br />

150 Girling Health Care, Inc.<br />

152 <strong>Austin</strong> Community College<br />

153 Heritage Society of <strong>Austin</strong><br />

154 Texas Army National Guard<br />

155 Riverbend Church<br />

156 Workers’ Assistance Program<br />

157 St. Edward’s University<br />

POSTCARDS COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.


WESTMINSTER<br />

MANOR<br />

✧<br />

Below: Westminster Manor’s interior<br />

courtyard.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

140<br />

More than 30 years ago Westminster<br />

Manor created a new standard in elder healthcare.<br />

Founded by the First Presbyterian<br />

Church of <strong>Austin</strong>, whose roots in Texas date<br />

back to 1850, Westminster Manor was a<br />

pioneer in housing for retired men and<br />

women. Its unique arrangement of private<br />

apartments, group dining, recreational activities,<br />

and convalescent care created a comfortable,<br />

secure, and independent way of life that<br />

was unusual at the time. It was the first<br />

Presbyterian home for the aged built in Texas,<br />

and one that combined the privacy of a family<br />

home with the services of a 24-hour on-site<br />

health center. Even today, Westminster Manor<br />

is the city’s only retirement community to<br />

provide life-long nursing and rehabilitative<br />

care to its residents. “We have a reputation as<br />

the premier retirement living facility in the<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> area,” says former chairman of the<br />

board, Harry Bengtson.<br />

The 112-year-old First Presbyterian<br />

Church of <strong>Austin</strong> had a history of leadership<br />

in social services long before it traded its<br />

downtown property for a new seven-acre site<br />

in West <strong>Austin</strong> on Jackson Avenue to broaden<br />

its ministry. Recognizing a growing need for its<br />

members, church elders led by the late Harris<br />

Bell started to think about a community dedicated<br />

to retired men and women where they<br />

could continue to lead active lives but with the<br />

security of having healthcare when, and if,<br />

needed. Plans for a new five-story home were<br />

approved in 1962, and that same year a separate<br />

not-for-profit corporation was created<br />

under the name Westminster Manor, Inc. The<br />

church sold part of its land to the new nonprofit,<br />

and a leading local architect was chosen<br />

to design the building. “The life-care concept<br />

was in its early infancy, and this form of retirement<br />

living had not really been tested,” says<br />

Bengtson. “It took a lot of faith and daring on<br />

the part of church members. We admire and<br />

thank them for their foresight.”<br />

Westminster Manor opened in April 1967<br />

with 143 apartments. Four years later preliminary<br />

plans were started to add 80 new apartments,<br />

which were completed in 1975.<br />

Outside marketing and management services<br />

were brought in 1976 to handle day-to-day<br />

operations, and the nursing center was<br />

expanded by remodeling some vacant residential<br />

units. By 1978 another wing of apartments<br />

was being planned, which was finished two<br />

years later. When its neighbor, the First<br />

Presbyterian Church, moved a second time,<br />

Westminster Manor bought the adjoining<br />

property, which became the site of a new 90-<br />

bed health center that was completed in 1987.


Now the city’s oldest retirement community,<br />

Westminster Manor has 271 apartments—<br />

including three penthouses—for 320 residents,<br />

many of whom have had distinguished<br />

professional careers. Most residents are longtime<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>ites and have included the mother<br />

of Governor Ann Richards, Texas Lieutenant<br />

Governor Walter Woodul, Texas Supreme<br />

Court Justice St. John Garwood, and the first<br />

woman secretary of the Texas Senate Bess<br />

Pierce. Several residents have lived there for<br />

more than 20 years.<br />

This centrally located West <strong>Austin</strong> enclave<br />

is near neighborhoods, major shopping areas,<br />

and the University of Texas. Westminster<br />

Manor offers residents a wide variety of<br />

amenities—library, game room, exercise<br />

room, book club, even a small grocery—as<br />

well as planned activities that include transportation<br />

to cultural events, movies, and<br />

shopping; out-of-town day trips; and musical<br />

or theatrical productions at the Manor’s 250-<br />

seat auditorium. Residents purchase an<br />

endowment based on the size of their apartment<br />

that includes housing and healthcare. A<br />

monthly maintenance fee covers such services<br />

as meals, utilities, and housekeeping.<br />

Its location, services, and quality of life<br />

mean there is generally a waiting list. Over<br />

the years, the non-denominational<br />

Westminster Manor has become independent<br />

of the church but is still governed by a local<br />

board of trustees. Iowa-based LifeCare<br />

Services, a manager of life-care facilities<br />

around the country, contractually manages<br />

the community for the board. “We have a<br />

well-organized staff, a dedicated board of<br />

directors, a caring resident’s association, and<br />

most of all, we are blessed to have a wonderful<br />

group of residents,” says Bengtson.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Every apartment has an outside<br />

view. Some enjoy a breath-taking view of<br />

the city.<br />

Below: One of the amenities is a<br />

comfortable, up-to-date library..<br />

Sharing the Heritage | QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

141


✧<br />

Above: Samuel Huston College, a<br />

predecessor of Huston-Tillotson College.<br />

Below: Evans Industrial Hall, Tillotson<br />

College, another predecessor of Huston-<br />

Tillotson College.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

142<br />

HUSTON-<br />

TILLOTSON<br />

COLLEGE<br />

The oldest institution of<br />

higher education in <strong>Austin</strong>,<br />

Huston-Tillotson College provides<br />

quality education to prepare<br />

students to meet the challenges<br />

of the 21st century. The<br />

institution unites the missionary<br />

zeal and historic commitments<br />

to the education of the “freedmen”<br />

of Congregationalists and<br />

Methodists under the motto, “In<br />

Union, Strength.”<br />

Following the Civil War, few<br />

efforts were made by state or federal governments<br />

in the South to provide education for<br />

newly-freed slaves. That task fell to various<br />

churches, which opened a total of 13 institutions<br />

in Texas between 1866 and 1912.<br />

Reverend George Jeffrey Tillotson, a retired<br />

minister from Wethersfield, Connecticut,<br />

moved to Texas in the 1800s in order to<br />

establish a school to train Negro teachers. He<br />

founded Tillotson College in <strong>Austin</strong> in 1875<br />

upon a secondary school campus that had<br />

been sponsored by the American Missionary<br />

Association, a predecessor of the United<br />

Church of Christ. Chartered in 1877,<br />

Tillotson Collegiate and Normal Institute<br />

opened its doors four years later. The college<br />

sat atop <strong>Austin</strong>’s second highest hill overlooking<br />

the Colorado River.<br />

In 1881, there were no public schools for<br />

colored people in <strong>Austin</strong>. Many of Tillotson’s<br />

first students had no prior formal education;<br />

however, the eager students, who numbered<br />

100 by the end of the first year, knew that they<br />

were the “elect” of their race. The institution<br />

was organized as a junior college in 1925, as a<br />

women’s college in<br />

1926, and again as a<br />

senior college in<br />

1931, returning to<br />

coeducational status.<br />

It was accredited<br />

with an “A” classification<br />

by the<br />

Southern Association<br />

of Colleges and<br />

Schools in 1943.<br />

Under similar circumstances<br />

in Dallas,<br />

Reverend George W. Richardson, with the support<br />

of the Methodist Episcopal Church,<br />

organized Andrews Normal College, the predecessor<br />

of Samuel Huston College, in 1876.<br />

The years in Dallas were difficult and, at one<br />

point, the school was burned to the ground at<br />

the hands of white terrorists. To serve a larger<br />

number of students, the school was relocated<br />

to <strong>Austin</strong> in 1878 by a vote of the West Texas<br />

Conference of the Methodist Episcopal<br />

Church. In 1887, it was renamed for Samuel<br />

Huston, an Iowa farmer who donated $9,000<br />

for the college’s first building. Because of various<br />

financial problems and construction<br />

delays, Samuel Huston College was not ready<br />

for classes until 1900. In 1926, the college was<br />

approved as a senior college, and in 1934 it<br />

was accredited with an “A” classification by the<br />

Southern Association of Colleges and Schools.<br />

With common goals, the two colleges<br />

began discussing cooperative efforts in the<br />

1930s. While institutions across the nation<br />

were grappling with the issues of whether<br />

they should provide a traditional liberal arts<br />

education, with emphasis on literature, history,<br />

languages, philosophy, and art, or practical<br />

education in various trades, like agriculture,<br />

engineering, business and industrial sciences,<br />

the two colleges worked hard to provide a<br />

balanced curriculum that offered both a comprehensive<br />

foundation in the liberal arts and<br />

useful skills like carpentry. Moral and religious<br />

instruction undergirded the academic<br />

curriculum at both institutions.<br />

Located less than a mile apart in East<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, both schools enjoyed healthy competition<br />

and rivalry in athletic programs, cooperation<br />

in student activities, and collegial


elationships among the faculty, staff, and students.<br />

They both affirmed commitment to<br />

community service and making a noble contribution<br />

to the wider society as the purpose<br />

of education. The two colleges merged into<br />

one institution—Huston-Tillotson College—<br />

on October 24, 1952.<br />

The current Huston-Tillotson College<br />

occupies the 23-acre site of the former<br />

Tillotson College. The campus of Samuel<br />

Huston College was demolished when<br />

Interstate 35 was expanded through <strong>Austin</strong>,<br />

but a Texas State <strong>Historic</strong>al Marker, erected in<br />

October 1996, stands at the site: the southeast<br />

corner of I-35 and 12th Street. Two original<br />

Tillotson College buildings still stand,<br />

both constructed by Tillotson students—<br />

Evans Hall, built in 1911-12 and zoned historic<br />

in 1984, and the Old Administration<br />

Building, built in 1913-14 and entered on the<br />

National Register of <strong>Historic</strong> Places in 1993.<br />

Following World War II, the demand for<br />

higher education changed radically. Thanks<br />

to the G.I. Bill, the baby boom, the end of<br />

legal segregation, the increasing independence<br />

of women, and changes in the world’s<br />

technology and economy, colleges and universities<br />

were inundated with more students<br />

than ever before. Huston-Tillotson College<br />

had always welcomed students of all ages,<br />

races, nationalities and faiths, and now it<br />

found the percentage of non-African-<br />

American men and women in its student<br />

body was increasing.<br />

Huston-Tillotson College today remains<br />

rooted in the vision and heritage of its founding<br />

United Methodist and United Church of<br />

Christ denominations, and is committed to<br />

becoming the premier historically black<br />

undergraduate college in the Southwest.<br />

Changes in curriculum have introduced new<br />

majors in Public Management and<br />

Psychology, a high-tech Institute for Research<br />

and Training, and an increasing number of<br />

courses offered in blocked format or on<br />

evenings and weekends. The college already<br />

boasts an outstanding teacher education program<br />

and plans to offer master’s degrees in<br />

education in the near future.<br />

Huston-Tillotson also has plans to house a<br />

research center for the study, collection and<br />

preservation of African-American culture in<br />

Texas and the Southwest. Such a center<br />

would include scholars and writers in residence,<br />

oral historians, archivists, other<br />

researchers and a public museum. Its collections<br />

would include, in addition to books and<br />

other standard archival items, notes, diaries,<br />

photos, artifacts, and other original materials<br />

from a variety of places and historical eras.<br />

Located in <strong>Austin</strong>, one of the best places to<br />

live and work in the United States, Huston-<br />

Tillotson College enters the 21st century with<br />

a successful history and a promising future.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Huston-Tillotson College President<br />

Joseph T. McMillan, Jr. and students.<br />

Below: Huston-Tillotson Bell Tower.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

143


✧<br />

CLINICAL<br />

PATHOLOGY<br />

LABORATORIES,<br />

INC.<br />

An artist’s rendering of Clinical Pathology<br />

Laboratories, Inc.’s <strong>Austin</strong> headquarters.<br />

Clinical Pathology Laboratories is the<br />

largest, privately owned medical laboratory in<br />

Texas. Owned and directed by pathologists<br />

(physicians specializing in laboratory medicine),<br />

the company provides special tests<br />

and diagnostic analysis to the <strong>Austin</strong> medical<br />

community as well as other doctors, hospitals,<br />

and businesses throughout the state. In its 50-<br />

year history, Clinical Pathology Laboratories<br />

has grown from a small private practice with<br />

one doctor to a corpor- ation with a staff of 50<br />

doctors and more than 700 employees. Its mission<br />

over the years has remained the same: to<br />

provide high-quality laboratory services to<br />

other practicing physicians.<br />

The company was founded by <strong>Austin</strong><br />

native Charles Pelphrey, M.D., who opened a<br />

medical office in May, 1948, on a tree-lined<br />

street between the State Capitol and the<br />

University of Texas. As the city’s first formally<br />

trained pathologist, Dr. Pelphrey could offer<br />

locally for the first time some of the special<br />

laboratory services needed by the medical<br />

community in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Over the next decade, the company grew<br />

to include Doctors. John Rainey and Thomas<br />

Price and moved into a large new office in<br />

1957 under a new name, Clinical Pathology<br />

Laboratories and was earning a reputation for<br />

innovation, service, and commitment.<br />

The company expanded again in 1968 to<br />

accommodate the growing demand for medical<br />

laboratory services brought about by the<br />

new federally sponsored healthcare program<br />

Medicare and the introduction of automated<br />

laboratory testing equipment. The laboratory<br />

service industry boomed nationwide during<br />

the 1970s with new markets and the ability to<br />

perform more tests in less time.<br />

Clinical Pathology Laboratories reached a<br />

turning point in 1981. Dr. Pelphrey retired<br />

but, with 60 employees and six partners, the<br />

company he created had a strong base from<br />

which to expand even further. That decade a<br />

new form of healthcare—health maintenance<br />

organizations—was introduced and accepted<br />

in <strong>Austin</strong> long before catching on in the rest<br />

of the state.<br />

The company decided to pursue this fledgling<br />

market, carving out a special niche for<br />

itself while others were more cautious. With<br />

the experience gained in working with HMOs<br />

in its hometown, Clinical Pathology<br />

Laboratories was in a strategic position to<br />

grow as the HMO concept was accepted<br />

statewide—and nationally.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

144


By the 1990s, the company had expanded<br />

its services outside <strong>Austin</strong> by forming partnerships<br />

with other pathologists. In less than<br />

ten years it had quadrupled in size and was<br />

operating in the major metropolitan areas in<br />

Texas. With its tradition of excellence that has<br />

characterized the company for more than 50<br />

years, Clinical Pathology Laboratories will<br />

continue to pursue its vision of quality<br />

throughout the state.<br />

✧<br />

Clinical Pathology Laboratories offers<br />

specialized diagnostic testing services to<br />

doctors, hospitals and businesses across<br />

the state.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

145


CITY OF<br />

AUSTIN<br />

DEPARTMENT<br />

OF AVIATION<br />

✧<br />

Braniff International began scheduled<br />

service to <strong>Austin</strong> in January 1935, joining<br />

American and Essair, which were already<br />

serving the airport. In this photograph from<br />

1961, passengers board a Braniff flight by<br />

walking across the tarmac from one of six<br />

gates while families and friends watch from<br />

the second floor outdoor observation deck.<br />

In 1911, just eight years after the Wright<br />

Brothers took off from Kitty Hawk, N.C., the<br />

skies over Central Texas were buzzing with<br />

excitement when pilot Calbraith Perry<br />

Rodgers made <strong>Austin</strong> one of his stops during<br />

the first coast-to-coast flight across the United<br />

States. Rodgers brought his plane, the Vin<br />

Fizz, down near 45th and Red River Streets,<br />

signaling the arrival of aviation in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

In 1917, a small dirt strip called Penn<br />

Field, near St. Edward’s University in South<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, served as a practice landing strip for<br />

Army De-Haviland biplanes. Over the years,<br />

other private airfields followed. In the late<br />

‘20s, the <strong>Austin</strong> City Council petitioned the<br />

Army Corps at Kelly Field in San Antonio to<br />

have a pilot fly over <strong>Austin</strong> and select the site<br />

most suitable for a municipal airport. The<br />

army sent Lt. Claire Chennault, who would<br />

later command the Flying Tigers during<br />

World War II.<br />

Based on Chennault’s recommendation,<br />

the city purchased 340 acres of land and<br />

began construction on the Robert Mueller<br />

Municipal Airport. Two years later the airport<br />

opened, complete with one hangar, terminal<br />

building, and a single 1,000-foot long runway.<br />

As the popularity of air travel grew, so<br />

did Mueller, which fell under the auspices of<br />

the City of <strong>Austin</strong> Department of Aviation<br />

in 1958.<br />

In the ‘70s, it became apparent that the<br />

city’s air travel needs were outgrowing its airport.<br />

When Mueller opened, it was situated on<br />

the outskirts of town, a town that grew and<br />

eventually surrounded the airport. There was<br />

no room to expand to meet the demand for<br />

additional passenger and cargo service, which<br />

were vital to <strong>Austin</strong>’s growth and emerging<br />

role as a high-tech center. In addition, several<br />

neighborhoods were being affected by the<br />

noise and traffic generated by the airport.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

146


The answer lay in Southeast <strong>Austin</strong> where,<br />

during World War II, the city purchased land<br />

for the Del Valle Army Air Base, later renamed<br />

the Bergstrom Air Force Base after John<br />

August Earl Bergstrom, the first soldier from<br />

Travis County killed in the war. The base<br />

served the country well until it was closed<br />

during the early ‘90s.<br />

The situation, instead of being a blow to<br />

the local economy, was a boon for <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Millions of dollars were saved since the city<br />

would not have to purchase new land for the<br />

airport and could adapt many existing structures<br />

at Bergstrom instead of having to build<br />

everything from scratch.<br />

In 1993, residents voted to move <strong>Austin</strong>’s<br />

airport to Bergstrom and approved $400 million<br />

in revenue bonds for construction.<br />

Grants from the Federal Aviation<br />

Administration and revenue from Mueller<br />

would be used to defray costs, meaning that<br />

no tax dollars were needed to build the<br />

new airport.<br />

Work soon began to improve the existing<br />

12,250-foot runway and build a second<br />

9,000-foot runway. The 550,000-square-foot<br />

passenger terminal building, named after the<br />

late Congresswoman Barbara Jordan, will<br />

contain 25 gates and can be expanded to 55<br />

gates if the need arises.<br />

The longer runway will be able to handle<br />

any size aircraft and the terminal building’s<br />

international gate will allow <strong>Austin</strong> to expand<br />

reach to other countries with regularly scheduled<br />

passenger jet service as well as charter<br />

flights.<br />

Air cargo operations took off at <strong>Austin</strong>-<br />

Bergstrom International Airport in June 1997,<br />

and passenger flights are scheduled to land in<br />

May 1999.<br />

✧<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>-Bergstrom International Airport,<br />

opening in May 1999, connects directly to<br />

Texas Highway 71 and is<br />

eight miles from the State of Texas<br />

Capitol Building.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

147


CARDIOTHORACIC AND<br />

VASCULAR SURGEONS<br />

✧<br />

Above: (left to right) Drs. John D. Oswalt,<br />

Homer S. Arnold and James H. Calhoon<br />

perform the first heart transplant in Central<br />

Texas. CTVS has performed over 150 heart<br />

transplants since the first one in 1986. For<br />

more than three decades the most<br />

sophisticated heart, lung, and vascular<br />

diagnostic and surgical techniques in the<br />

region have been utilized by CTVS.<br />

Below: Dr. R. Maurice Hood and some of<br />

his early partners have retired, but CTVS<br />

continues to be pioneers in medical history<br />

and has amassed a record of medical<br />

“firsts.” Front row: (left to right) Drs.<br />

James H. Calhoon, founder R. Maurice<br />

Hood, amd Homer S. Arnold. Back row (left<br />

to right) Drs. Robert A. Tate, Thomas D.<br />

Kirksey, and Gerald A. Baugh. Drs. Arnold<br />

and Tate continue to practice with CTVS.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

148<br />

One of the leading physician groups in<br />

Central Texas, Cardiothoracic and Vascular<br />

Surgeons (CTVS), has been a pioneer for 40<br />

years in state-of-the-art diagnostic and surgical<br />

procedures of the heart, lungs, chest, and<br />

major blood vessels in the human body.<br />

Collectively, 13 surgeons care for patients of<br />

all ages, from infants to seniors, throughout the<br />

Central Texas region from their office in<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, through clinics in nearby Llano and<br />

Marble Falls, and from all area hospitals.<br />

Privately owned, it is the largest group of<br />

specialists in the field in Central Texas. Its mission<br />

is to provide the people of Central Texas<br />

with the highest-quality cardiac, thoracic, and<br />

vascular surgical services. For four decades the<br />

most sophisticated heart, lung, and vascular<br />

diagnostic and surgical techniques in the<br />

region have been utilized by CTVS.<br />

Individually and collectively, the physicians<br />

of what is today Cardiothoracic and<br />

Vascular Surgeons have amassed a record of<br />

medical “firsts” that started in 1958, when the<br />

company was founded as a solo practice by<br />

Dr. R. Maurice Hood. Dr. Hood was the first<br />

physician in <strong>Austin</strong> to employ diagnostic<br />

techniques and perform surgery on the heart.<br />

Local hospitals are staffed and equipped<br />

today to handle sophisticated procedures due<br />

to the influence of Dr. Hood and his earliest<br />

partners, Drs. James H. Calhoon, Homer S.<br />

Arnold, Thomas D. Kirksey, Robert A. Tate,<br />

and Gerald A. Baugh. In 1965, Dr. Calhoon<br />

was the only chest surgeon on hand in <strong>Austin</strong><br />

to treat the victims of sniper Charles<br />

Whitman, who wounded 50 people and killed<br />

17 from the tower at the University of Texas.<br />

CTVS performed the first open heart surgery<br />

in Central Texas in 1961 and participated<br />

in the development of a peritoneal catheter<br />

used in kidney dialysis in 1963. Although<br />

commonplace today, it was such a revolutionary<br />

device at the time that Dr. Kirksey was<br />

featured on the CBS national news program<br />

60 Minutes.<br />

During the 1970s, they continued to be<br />

pioneers in medical history, treating patients<br />

with kidney diseases, once considered incurable,<br />

with an organ transplant; in the same<br />

era, easing the minds of parents with a sick<br />

infant with the ability to implant a permanent<br />

heart pacemaker.


As <strong>Austin</strong> grew in the 1980s, the practice<br />

more than doubled in size, during which time<br />

the physicians performed the first heart transplant<br />

in Central Texas. They also were among<br />

the first in the world to perform the Ross<br />

Procedure-delicate repairs to the heart that<br />

replace the valves-and the first homografts,<br />

which replace damaged arteries and heart<br />

valves with those from donors. In 1988, the<br />

group founded the first pediatric cardiac surgery<br />

program for infants and children in<br />

Central Texas. CTVS is also noted for being<br />

the first in the world to perform the Ross<br />

Procedure on a newborn.<br />

Other like-minded surgeons joined CTVS<br />

in the 1990s to meet the needs of a fast-growing<br />

community. The group’s trail-blazing techniques,<br />

such as VATS (video-assisted thoracic<br />

surgery), resulted in reduced medical costs<br />

and shorter hospital stays, and the use of staples<br />

instead of stitches for lung resections<br />

reduced the time patients spend in surgery.<br />

Dr. Hood and some of his early partners<br />

have retired, but a tradition of pioneering<br />

has earned CTVS physicians international<br />

reputations. In addition to surgery, they host<br />

international conferences and seminars as<br />

well as travel the world to teach other physicians<br />

their progressive surgical techniques.<br />

Being recognized as a leader in technology<br />

among their colleagues, CTVS has traveled<br />

throughout the United States for invaluable<br />

medical consultations.<br />

Today, the physician staff of Cardiothoracic<br />

and Vascular Surgeons includes Drs. Homer<br />

S. Arnold, Robert A. Tate, president John D.<br />

Oswalt, Emery W. Dilling, Robert A. Bridges,<br />

Phillip J. Church, Stephen J. Dewan, Mark T.<br />

Stewart, Lewis G. King, Michael C. Mueller,<br />

Andrew T. Hume, John K. Politz, and Mark C.<br />

Felger. They treat patients from <strong>Austin</strong> as well<br />

as Waco, San Angelo, Burnet, and Temple and<br />

have plans to extend their specialized practice<br />

into other communities in the region.<br />

“Our mission is to serve <strong>Austin</strong> and<br />

Central Texas with compassion, integrity, dignity,<br />

and charity,” says Dr. Arnold. “That is<br />

fixed and unswerving, and will remain so.”<br />

✧<br />

Above: Local hospitals are staffed and<br />

equipped today to handle sophisticated<br />

procedures due to the influence of Dr. Hood<br />

and his earliest partners. Here, in the<br />

earlier years of CTVS, (left to right) Drs.<br />

James H. Calhoon and Homer S. Arnold<br />

perform a CAB (coronary artery bypass)<br />

with very little technological equipment and<br />

only one overhead light.<br />

Below: The physicians of Cardiothoracic and<br />

Vascular Surgeons: (front row, left to right)<br />

Drs. James H. Calhoon, founder R. Maurice<br />

Hood, Homer S. Arnold, (middle row left to<br />

right) Lewis G. King, Robert A. Tate,<br />

Thomas D. Kirksey, John D. Oswalt, Mark<br />

T. Stewart, Emery W. Dilling, (back row)<br />

Andrew T. Hume, Gerald A. Baugh, Phillip<br />

J. Church, John K. Politz, Michael C.<br />

Mueller, Mark C. Felger, Stephen J. Dewan,<br />

Robert A. Bridges.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

149


GIRLING<br />

HEALTH CARE,<br />

INC.<br />

✧<br />

Robert G.W. Girling, III<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

150<br />

It’s appropriate that Girling Health Care<br />

Inc., which provides quality in-home healthcare<br />

services for more than 13,000 patients in<br />

six different states, began in the home of<br />

Bettie J. and Robert W. Girling, III.<br />

Former minister Robert Girling and his wife<br />

Bettie, who both hold master’s degrees in social<br />

work from the University of Texas, were<br />

involved in counseling and administrating<br />

social programs for children’s homes in Fort<br />

Worth during the 1960s. Their busy schedules<br />

required them to enlist the aid of nannies to<br />

help take care of their children and with various<br />

chores around the house. When they<br />

moved to <strong>Austin</strong>, the Girlings found that it was<br />

not easy to hire reliable “babysitters”—skilled<br />

professional or therapeutic in-home help.<br />

“It was our experience in having good<br />

in-home care for our children, that we wanted<br />

to duplicate that for people with children<br />

in <strong>Austin</strong>,” Robert Girling says. “Then we<br />

decided to expand our services to provide all<br />

kinds of skilled care for the elderly and people<br />

of all ages.”<br />

In 1967, the couple began providing that<br />

service. Bettie, who stayed home to take care<br />

of their three children, worked to locate and<br />

place qualified caretakers for their clients’<br />

needs, whether it was help in raising children<br />

or providing various services for elderly or ill<br />

patients in their homes. By 1969, Girling<br />

Health Care, Inc. had applied for and<br />

received certification to serve Medicare and<br />

Medicaid patients in Texas.<br />

Girling Health Care, in coordination with<br />

the patient and the patient’s physician, provides<br />

in-home care to its clients. Those services<br />

include everything from skilled nursing,


home health aides, medical social workers<br />

and physical, speech therapy and occupational<br />

therapy, to buying groceries, providing<br />

homemaker tasks and escorting clients to and<br />

from doctors’ offices.<br />

Clients include both the elderly and persons<br />

suffering from acute or chronic illnesses.<br />

The Girlings, and the medical community at<br />

large, have learned it is psychologically better<br />

for patients—and less taxing on their pocketbooks—if<br />

they can work through the healing<br />

process in their own home.<br />

“People want to be at home,” Robert<br />

Girling says. “What happens with me is that<br />

after I go through the acute phase of care at<br />

the hospital, I’m ready to get out. I’m slipping<br />

out the elevator to get home.”<br />

In 1975, Girling Health Care, Inc. began<br />

to expand throughout Texas and had the<br />

state covered by 1979. The next decade,<br />

the company moved into New Orleans,<br />

Louisana, Memphis and Knoxville,<br />

Tennessee, Tulsa, Oklahoma, Phoenix,<br />

Arizona and New York City. Today, the firm<br />

has a total of 9,500 employees, including<br />

1,200 in <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Aside from Medicare recipients, Girling<br />

also serves private for-pay patients, and has a<br />

contract with the State of Texas Department<br />

of Human Services to provide primary home<br />

care and community-based alternatives for<br />

indigent elderly patients.<br />

The company provides similar programs<br />

for the states of Oklahoma and New York.<br />

“Our focus has been on quality of care,<br />

giving people the best care available,” Robert<br />

Girling says. “I think that quality of care is<br />

that for which Girling stands.”<br />

✧<br />

Bettie J. Girling.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

151


AUSTIN<br />

COMMUNITY<br />

COLLEGE<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Community College (ACC) is one<br />

of 50 regional junior colleges in the state that<br />

provides innovative, hands-on education to a<br />

diverse student body of more than 49,000<br />

students annually from eight Central Texas<br />

counties. Located in a city with a major university<br />

and three private colleges, ACC has<br />

created a niche for itself by providing accessible,<br />

affordable education to meet the varied<br />

needs of greater <strong>Austin</strong> residents.<br />

Many students are enrolled in ACC’s popular<br />

university transfer program, whose 27 academic<br />

disciplines, flexible class schedule, low<br />

cost, and transferable course credits allow students<br />

to earn associate degrees or advance to<br />

other schools. ACC also offers technical classes<br />

to train students for jobs with major<br />

local businesses in such areas as high<br />

technology, hospitality, healthcare, and<br />

commercial art. GED preparatory<br />

courses and literacy classes are available<br />

to adults who dropped out of<br />

high school. In addition, ACC teaches<br />

business-related skills and offers continuing<br />

education classes to those who<br />

want to maintain their skills or<br />

advance their careers. “We take people<br />

from where they are and move them to<br />

a level where they can be successful,”<br />

says Richard Fonté, ACC president.<br />

Created by voters in 1972, ACC<br />

was started with discarded furniture<br />

and two abandoned public school buildings on<br />

the east and west side of town. From the beginning<br />

it had an “open-door” policy that turned<br />

no one away, a dedicated faculty, and a yearround<br />

curriculum that offered a mixture of<br />

technical and academic courses during the day<br />

and at night. Within ten years ACC was fully<br />

accredited and offering credit and non-credit<br />

classes to 24,000 students at more than 60<br />

locations—public schools, libraries, businesses,<br />

and industrial plants. It was an early pioneer<br />

in distance learning.<br />

In 1986, voters approved the use of a dedicated<br />

property tax to fund the college, and<br />

ACC began to consolidate and expand its<br />

facilities to handle its growing student body.<br />

The college more than quadrupled in size with<br />

the addition of the Riverside Campus, the<br />

Northridge Campus, the Pinnacle Campus in<br />

Oak Hill, Cypress Creek in Cedar Park, and an<br />

administration building near Highland Mall.<br />

In the 1990s, ACC has added to its curriculum<br />

special high-tech training programs<br />

for <strong>Austin</strong>’s burgeoning semiconductor, software,<br />

and multi-media industries as well as a<br />

high-school equivalency program for adults.<br />

A new initiative is the Virtual College of<br />

Texas, which offers students the opportunity<br />

to take classes on-line via the Internet from<br />

various colleges around the state. “It’s another<br />

exciting area we’re getting into through technology,”<br />

says Fonté.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

152


HERITAGE<br />

SOCIETY OF<br />

AUSTIN<br />

The Heritage Society of <strong>Austin</strong> (HSA) was<br />

the first local organization to be interested in<br />

preserving the city’s unique architectural, cultural,<br />

and environmental artifacts. Privately<br />

funded for more than 45 years, the organization<br />

has been an active participant in preserving<br />

notable properties throughout the city.<br />

Its group of dedicated volunteers has combined<br />

business and pleasure with appreciation<br />

awards, benefits, galas, and tours of historic<br />

homes to raise more than $2.5 million that,<br />

through grants and loans, have been used to<br />

save and restore historically significant buildings<br />

threatened with demolition. HSA often<br />

purchases and resells to preservation-minded<br />

individuals or businesses buildings of architectural<br />

importance. It also provides technical<br />

assistance on preservation projects, sponsors<br />

educational workshops and seminars, makes<br />

scholarships in the field of restoration architecture,<br />

and publishes related books. “What’s<br />

important about the Heritage Society is that<br />

it’s done the glamorous as well as such everyday<br />

things as helping a family restore the<br />

facade on their East <strong>Austin</strong> home,” says Beth<br />

Atherton, executive director.<br />

Organized in 1953, HSA started with an<br />

informal meeting in the home of Mrs.<br />

Wayman Adams, who noticed the city’s customs,<br />

buildings, and antiquities were disappearing.<br />

Within two years the Heritage<br />

Society had 200 members and had undertaken<br />

a survey of architecturally important<br />

homes in central <strong>Austin</strong> on behalf of the city’s<br />

planning department.<br />

HSA bought its first building in 1958,<br />

which it used for several years as its headquarters.<br />

In 1963, the Heritage Guild was created,<br />

and its hundreds of volunteers used their<br />

culinary and organizational skills to raise<br />

money from regular bake sales and from running<br />

the coffee shop at the Old Lundberg<br />

Bakery—an historic building on <strong>Austin</strong>’s main<br />

street HSA bought in 1962—and in the historic<br />

Driskill Hotel 1886 Lunchroom, one of<br />

the city’s most popular downtown restaurants.<br />

Other fund-raising efforts included an annual<br />

antique show and a spring pilgrimage to significant<br />

homes around <strong>Austin</strong>. In 1969, HSA<br />

created a foundation to administer grants from<br />

a self-perpetuating revolving fund.<br />

As <strong>Austin</strong> grew in the 1970s and 1980s,<br />

the Heritage Society took the lead in acquiring<br />

key buildings that were in danger of being<br />

torn down. Chief among these was the 112-<br />

year-old Driskill Hotel—host to U.S. presidents<br />

and scores of Texas statesmen—in<br />

which HSA was one of four major stockholders.<br />

It also was instrumental in the buying,<br />

zoning, and reselling of other significant residential<br />

and commercial buildings and provided<br />

the leadership in revitalizing downtown.<br />

“This is not just about architecture,” says<br />

Cynthia W. Brown, Heritage Society president.<br />

“It’s about a broad definition of our culture<br />

and heritage.”<br />

✧<br />

The 1997 Annual Preservation Awards<br />

For 37 years, the Heritage Society of <strong>Austin</strong><br />

has been giving awards in appreciation for<br />

significant contributions to the preservation<br />

of <strong>Austin</strong>’s architectural, cultural, and<br />

environmental heritage. The Sue and Frank<br />

McBee Visionary Award which was initiated<br />

in 1996 honored Lady Bird Johnson, Janet<br />

Long Fish, Roberta Crenshaw and Beverly<br />

Sheffield for their lifelong commitment to<br />

preserving the natural beauty of <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

Pictured are the recipients receiving their<br />

award from Sue McBee (second from left).<br />

Not pictured-Beverly Sheffield.<br />

Sharing the Heritage | QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

153


TEXAS<br />

NATIONAL<br />

GUARD<br />

✧<br />

The Texas National Guard is equipped with<br />

the latest in modern military equipment.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

154<br />

Time was when the term “weekend warriors”<br />

was a mild pejorative used to demean<br />

citizen soldiers and reservists. Today, the term<br />

more often applied to those who disdain the<br />

couch in favor of the track or the playing<br />

field. And that’s just fine with the more than<br />

22,000 men and women of Texas’ own Army<br />

and Air National Guard units.<br />

“Professionalism as defined today, is made<br />

up of a lot of attributes,” said Lt. Col. Ed S.<br />

Komandosky, spokesman for the more than<br />

200 guard units strategically placed all across<br />

the state for which <strong>Austin</strong>’s historic Camp<br />

Mabry serves as headquarters.<br />

Among those qualities, Lt. Col.<br />

Komandosky said, “are commitments to<br />

excellence, family, discipline, and trust.”<br />

Ingrained in the Guards’ mission is the<br />

expressed desire to be always “ready to serve<br />

Texas and our nation.”<br />

And this is as it has been since formation<br />

of what is the modern day Army and Air<br />

National Guard, which traces its roots to the<br />

Texas Revolution of 1835.<br />

Camp Mabry was named in 1892 in honor<br />

of General Woodford J. Mabry, then Texas’<br />

adjutant general. The original facilities<br />

encompassed an 85-acre tract of land donated<br />

by a group of <strong>Austin</strong> businessmen.<br />

Throughout the years and by way of grants<br />

and donations, it has grown to its present size<br />

of 375 acres.<br />

Significant milestones in the history<br />

and development of the Texas National<br />

Guard include:<br />

• The 1st Texas Regiment of Volunteers<br />

came under fire for the first time in October 2,<br />

1835 at Gonzales.<br />

• Some 8,000 Texas volunteers augment<br />

forces of Generals Zachary Taylor and<br />

Winfield Scott in the 1848 war with Mexico.<br />

• The state furnishes 69 regiments and<br />

nearly 90,000 men, primarily cavalry men,<br />

when the great Civil War erupted in 1861.<br />

Among legendary Texas units was General<br />

John Bell Hood’s Texas Brigade (1st, 4th and<br />

5th Texas).<br />

• Militia units began to reform in 1873<br />

following a lengthy period in limbo<br />

during Reconstruction.<br />

• In 1898, five regiments of the Texas<br />

Volunteer Guard were called to serve in the<br />

Spanish American War. One regiment was<br />

sent to Cuba.<br />

• The federal government in 1903 enacted<br />

legislation authorizing various state militia to<br />

form the National Guard.<br />

• The first units of the Texas Guard arrived<br />

in France in May 1918. Some 1,300 were lost<br />

in battle; two were awarded the Congressional<br />

Medal of Honor; 30 Texans received the<br />

Distinguished Service Cross and 128, the<br />

Croix de Guerre.<br />

• World War II added to the proud combat<br />

history of the Texas National Guard and the<br />

112th and 124th Cavalry regiments battled in<br />

every theatre of war.<br />

• Other units also distinguished themselves<br />

in the Korean and Vietnam War eras.<br />

Almost all the Texas Air National Guard<br />

served in Korea during the conflict there.<br />

Today, the Texas Guard embraces units in<br />

117 communities throughout the state. It represents<br />

the only sizeable, trained force available<br />

to the governor in the event of natural<br />

disasters or civil disturbances.


Many Americans, particularly Baby<br />

Boomers, are seeking respite from the unrelenting<br />

pressures of day-to-day life in the ’90s<br />

by returning to the churches they either abandoned<br />

or attended in fits and starts during<br />

their salad days.<br />

Statistics reveal that congregations across<br />

the religious spectrum have felt the impact of<br />

the more than one-third of dropouts who’ve<br />

found their way back to religion, raising to 43<br />

million the number of people who regularly<br />

attend church services.<br />

Dr. Gerald Mann, senior pastor of <strong>Austin</strong>’s<br />

Riverbend Church, sees this resurgence as<br />

evidence that people in general are waking to<br />

the fact that life’s secular pursuits, no matter<br />

how absorbing or rewarding, are largely<br />

empty without a spiritual component.<br />

“All of the would-be saviors of the ’60s—<br />

education, social programs, and militant liberationism—have<br />

not filled the ‘hole in the<br />

soul,’” says Dr. Mann. “People are still skeptical<br />

of the traditional religious forms; but they<br />

are hungry for spiritual experiences and a<br />

community of grace where they can give their<br />

lives in meaningful service.”<br />

Dr. Mann is an <strong>Austin</strong> fixture, and the<br />

church he and sixty families founded in 1979<br />

in a rented schoolhouse today ministers to<br />

8,000 members, nearly half of whom attend<br />

services each week.<br />

Seemingly, it is both the medium and the<br />

message that underlie the phenomenal<br />

growth of the church.<br />

Dr. Mann, whose characteristic<br />

puckish grin suggests<br />

a sense of fun not normally<br />

attributable to a Southern<br />

Baptist preacher, is friend and<br />

confidant to the likes of Willie<br />

Nelson and former University<br />

of Texas coaching legend<br />

Darell Royal. A more worldly<br />

duo is difficult to imagine.<br />

But they, and those whose<br />

penchant for living in the fast<br />

lane has caused unhappiness<br />

or worse, respond to the<br />

minister’s easygoing, often<br />

anecdotal style and the<br />

church’s essential message of<br />

“love and grace.”<br />

“Hope,” says Dr. Mann, “is the greatest<br />

need felt by most people today. They want to<br />

know they are not alone in facing today’s trials<br />

and tomorrow’s troubles. In short, what<br />

we all want most is to know that God is with<br />

us now and will be in the future.”<br />

The bricks and mortar future of Riverbend<br />

Church is embodied in an architectural marvel,<br />

replete with soaring frontal arch and towering,<br />

twin atriums with spectacular views of<br />

the Hill Country. The newest sanctuary was<br />

dedicated in the spring of 1998; christened a<br />

“Home for Hope,” the native limestone edifice<br />

seats 3,000 in an amphitheater setting.<br />

But the vision and mission of Riverbend<br />

Church have remained constant: Says Dr.<br />

Mann, “[we have] always sought to reach the<br />

cynical, the unchurched, and the skeptical.”<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, by any measure, has responded<br />

to the “laid back” style of the church and<br />

its ministerial staff, both of which are stylistically<br />

different from the more conventional<br />

Baptist churches with whom they share<br />

basic beliefs.<br />

An example of the congregation’s nonjudgmental<br />

attitudes derives from Riverbend’s<br />

extensive community outreach programs. Of<br />

the thirteen homes the congregation volunteered<br />

to build under auspices of Habitat for<br />

Humanity, one was for a single mother who<br />

had been shunned by other groups for being<br />

unmarried.<br />

As Dr. Mann himself might say, “’Nuff said.”<br />

RIVERBEND<br />

CHURCH<br />

✧<br />

Above: Riverbend Church services reach 70<br />

million households across the United States<br />

each week.<br />

Below: Dr. Gerald Mann, founding pastor<br />

Sharing the Heritage | QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

155


WORKERS<br />

ASSISTANCE<br />

PROGRAM, INC.<br />

Born and Bred,<br />

Don’t it always seem to go<br />

That you don’t know what you’ve got ‘til it’s gone.<br />

They paved paradise and put up a parking lot.<br />

— Joni Mitchell<br />

Big Yellow Taxi<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> was never really a paradise, of<br />

course, but sometimes the place could fool<br />

you. Armadillo World Headquarters, Clark<br />

Field, the Varsity Theater, open country on all<br />

sides. A lowercase city that dodged the bullet<br />

that took out Houston. A city without the<br />

haze, without the crowding, without the rush.<br />

A city whose vision for the future was more<br />

than just a big number with a dollar sign in<br />

front of it. A city where people mattered.<br />

The Workers Assistance Program hasn’t<br />

forgotten. It is here to lend a helping hand,<br />

and it is good at what it does. The organization’s<br />

purpose hasn’t changed in over 20<br />

years. The WAP is in the business of restoring<br />

communities—one life at a time.<br />

KNOW HOW<br />

We know what we’re doing. The Workers<br />

Assistance Program serves over a million people,<br />

in fully half the states of the Union, as<br />

well as in Canada. We run employee assistance<br />

programs, and drug-free workplace<br />

programs for some 250 companies, and over<br />

90 government agencies, both state and local.<br />

Our clients include General Motors, Ford<br />

Motor Company, Trane, Inc. and United<br />

Technologies, not to mention the city<br />

of <strong>Austin</strong>.<br />

The Workers Assistance Program also<br />

oversees the Peer Assistance and Leadership<br />

program (PAL) in school districts throughout<br />

Texas. PAL, as the name implies, trains selected<br />

students to act as guides and mentors to<br />

other students at school, and to reach out to<br />

the larger community through volunteer service<br />

projects.<br />

Finally, we have joined with other groups<br />

around the state to create the Texas HIV<br />

Connection. Together, we dispense information,<br />

train workers, and make sure that those<br />

affected by the human immunodeficiency<br />

virus find timely counsel and treatment.<br />

AUSTIN: ONCE AND FUTURE<br />

The Workers Assistance Program grew up<br />

in <strong>Austin</strong>. Its people look like <strong>Austin</strong>. More<br />

important, they think like <strong>Austin</strong>—the city of<br />

recent memory, the city that made sense.<br />

WAP knows it can’t fix everything that’s broken<br />

nowadays, but it is determined to do<br />

what it can.<br />

Which is more important: brains or heart?<br />

With the Workers Assistance Program, you<br />

don’t have to choose.<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> was never really paradise, but<br />

sometimes the place could fool you. Maybe, if<br />

we get our bearings, find the will, and pull<br />

together, we can all be fooled again.<br />

For more information about the Workers<br />

Assistance Program please visit the WAP Web<br />

site at www.wap.com.<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

156


Founded 113 years ago, St. Edward’s<br />

University is one of the oldest institutions of<br />

higher education in Texas. It is a small,<br />

Catholic, liberal arts college with a legacy of a<br />

progressive, values-based curriculum that continues<br />

to define it today. St. Edward’s offers 33<br />

different undergraduate degrees in the humanities,<br />

natural sciences, behavioral or social sciences,<br />

business, and education. Preprofessional<br />

programs in the health sciences and law<br />

are available. A pioneer in education for working<br />

adults, the university also offers innovative,<br />

self-paced degree programs in the evening and<br />

on weekends as well as graduate degrees in<br />

business and human services.<br />

Father Edward Sorin, a priest of the<br />

Congregation of Holy Cross and St. Edward’s<br />

founder, was lured to Texas with the prospect<br />

of a gift of land for establishing a college in<br />

the state capital. He wanted a counterpart for<br />

the University of Notre Dame, which he had<br />

founded in Indiana.<br />

Started as a boarding school for boys, it<br />

was first called St. Edward’s Academy.<br />

Students were taught by scholarly priests and<br />

brothers in a system modeled after Notre<br />

Dame, and enrollment gradually increased as<br />

international and out-of-state students were<br />

drawn to its classical studies and classes in<br />

science and commerce. The need for more<br />

space prompted the combination high school<br />

and college to move in 1889 to its current<br />

hilltop location overlooking the city, where its<br />

main building was designed by the noted<br />

architect Nicholas Clayton.<br />

St. Edward’s set its sights<br />

on growth after the turn<br />

of the century. In 1925, it<br />

was chartered as a university.<br />

During World War II,<br />

the high school was transformed<br />

briefly into a military<br />

academy. Afterward,<br />

university enrollment<br />

boomed as veterans took<br />

advantage of the G.I. Bill<br />

to attend college. Changes<br />

ensued in the 1960s<br />

with the closing of the<br />

high school and the decision<br />

to admit women to<br />

the university.<br />

For the last two decades, St. Edward’s has<br />

been in a period of unprecedented growth. It<br />

became a leader in core curriculum development<br />

and was named to the Templeton<br />

Foundation’s Honor Roll for Character-<br />

Building Colleges. Today, there are more than<br />

3,400 undergraduate and graduate students.<br />

In the last ten years, the university’s endowment<br />

has grown to $28.4 million, and a successful<br />

$27 million capital campaign was<br />

completed in 1997 so the school can continue<br />

to pursue, according to its mission statement,<br />

“the courage to take risks, an international<br />

perspective, and the commitment to<br />

provide educational opportunities for students<br />

of varied cultural, religious, educational,<br />

and economic backgrounds.”<br />

ST. EDWARD’S<br />

UNIVERSITY<br />

✧<br />

Below: St. Edward’s University<br />

Sharing the Heritage | QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

157


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HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

158


INDEX<br />

#<br />

12th Air Force, 92<br />

24th Street, 67<br />

41st Street, 49<br />

45th Street, 57, 76<br />

55th Street, 76<br />

6th Texas Infantry, 28<br />

802 San Marcos Street, 20<br />

8th Ward, 37<br />

A<br />

Abilene, Kansas, 48<br />

Adjutant General’s Department, 51<br />

Aguirre, Pedro de, 5, 6<br />

Air Corps, 72<br />

Air Force One, 92<br />

Akin, Harry, 78<br />

Alabama, 20<br />

Alamo, The 12, 16, 17<br />

Alphabet Agencies, 67<br />

American National Bank, 60<br />

Apaches, 6<br />

Apple Computer, 85<br />

Archives War, 19<br />

Armadillo World Headquarters, 90<br />

Armour, J. Ogden, 57<br />

Army, 30, 37, 63, 71, 72, 73, 75<br />

ARPANet, 84<br />

Associated Press, 38<br />

Asylum for the Blind, 24, 29<br />

Asylum for the Deaf, 24<br />

Atlanta, 59<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> American, 63, 66, 78<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> American-Statesman, 73<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Brass Band, 31<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Business League, 59<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Chamber of Commerce, 44,<br />

63, 68, 72, 73, 75, 76, 81, 83, 93<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> City Gazette, 15<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> City Light Artillery, 27<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> City Light Infantry, 27<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Collegiate Female Institute, 27<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Daily Statesman, 43, 45, 47,<br />

52, 58, 60, 61, 63, 66<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Economic Development<br />

Council, 81<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Grays, 27<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Greys, 51<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> High School, 68<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> National Bank, 72<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> State Hospital, 24<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Statesman, 31, 36, 42, 66, 79<br />

<strong>Austin</strong> Water, Light and Power<br />

Company, 45<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, Moses, 8<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>, Stephen F., 8, 9, 10, 11, 32,<br />

50<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>ians, 15, 19<br />

<strong>Austin</strong>ites, 15, 21, 27, 29 28, 31, 32,<br />

35, 39, 42, 47, 48, 57, 58, 60,<br />

61, 63, 64, 66, 72, 73, 76, 84, 91<br />

Australia, 47<br />

Avenue G, 49<br />

B<br />

Balcones Escarpment, 7, 9, 10<br />

Balcones Research Center, 75, 79, 81,<br />

82<br />

Ballard, Charles, 67<br />

Baptist, 17<br />

Barret, E. [Eugenia], 26<br />

Barrett, Corinne, 30<br />

Barrett, Eva Stern, 30<br />

Bartholomew, Ed, 68<br />

Barton Creek, 20<br />

Barton Springs Pool, 68<br />

Barton Springs Road, 73<br />

Barton, Eliza, 11<br />

Barton, Parthenia, 11<br />

Barton, William, 9, 11<br />

Barton’s Springs, 11<br />

Bastrop County, 16, 72<br />

Bastrop, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 19,<br />

32, 33, 42<br />

Bastrop, Baron de, 10<br />

Battle of Missionary Ridge, 28<br />

Battle of San Jacinto, 10<br />

Baylor University, 64<br />

Beaumont, 27<br />

Bedichek, Roy, 55<br />

Bell, Peter Hansbrough, 22<br />

Bell, William, 19<br />

Ben Hur, 47<br />

Bergstrom International Airport, 93<br />

Bergstrom, 72, 74, 92, 93<br />

Bergstrom, John A.E., 72<br />

Berlin, 23<br />

Big Lake, 64<br />

Big Spring, 65<br />

Black Tuesday, 65<br />

Board of Trade, 44<br />

Bois d’Arc Street, 15, 21<br />

Boston Gazette, 39<br />

Brackenridge Hospital, 73<br />

Brackenridge Tract, 63<br />

Brackenridge, George W., 46<br />

Brady Pool, 91<br />

Brandon, John, 23<br />

Brazoria County, 11<br />

Brazoria, 11, 13<br />

Brazos River, 9, 13, 15, 18, 32<br />

Brazos Street, 42<br />

Brenham, 28, 32<br />

Brown, Clyde, 60<br />

Brownrigg, R. P., 25<br />

Brueggerhoff and Tips Building, 36<br />

Brushy Creek, 18<br />

Bryan, 33, 67<br />

Buda, 58<br />

Bull Pen, 29<br />

Bullock, Richard, 14, 20<br />

Bullock’s Hotel, 15<br />

Burch, Clarence, 71<br />

Burgess-Wright, 58<br />

Burleson, Edward, 11, 24<br />

Burnet County, 39<br />

Burnet Road, 77, 78<br />

Burnet, 39<br />

Burns, Robert, 84<br />

Burton, I. W., 13<br />

C<br />

Camp Gary, 73<br />

Camp Hood, 73<br />

Camp Mabry, 63, 78<br />

Camp Swift, 72<br />

Campbell, Isaac, 13<br />

Campbell, Tom, 60<br />

Capital City, 31, 38, 57<br />

Capital National Bank, 68<br />

Capitol Board, 41<br />

Capitol, 14, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25,<br />

29, 30, 31, 34, 35, 37, 38, 39,<br />

40, 41, 42, 50, 52, 58, 60, 78,<br />

90, 91, 92<br />

Cardwell, John, 45<br />

Cardwell, Mary, 63<br />

Castile, 5<br />

Caswell, Will, 57<br />

Cave, E. W., 25<br />

Cedar Street, 14<br />

Chicago, 35, 50, 62<br />

Chinese, 60<br />

Chisholm Trail, 35, 76, 87<br />

City of <strong>Austin</strong>, 72, 87<br />

Civil War, 25, 28, 32, 33, 34, 35, 45,<br />

72<br />

Clark Army Air Field, 72<br />

Clark, Edward, 26<br />

Clarksville Northern Standard, 19<br />

Coahuila y Tejas, 9, 10<br />

Coca-Cola, 58<br />

Coke, Richard, 34<br />

Cold War, 92<br />

Coleman, Alexander, 19<br />

Coleman, Robert M., 11<br />

College Hill, 41<br />

Colorado Ranger, 32<br />

Colorado River, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11,<br />

13, 15, 20, 24, 27, 32, 33, 36,<br />

42, 43, 44, 47, 52, 53, 55, 70,<br />

73, 79, 81, 87, 91<br />

Colorado, 21<br />

Columbian Exposition, 50<br />

Columbus, Ohio, 13, 51<br />

Comal River, 5<br />

Comanche, 21<br />

Computation Center, 83<br />

Confederacy, 26, 42<br />

Confederate States of America, 25,<br />

27<br />

Confederate, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 37,<br />

39, 45, 73<br />

Congress Avenue, 11, 14, 15, 16, 18,<br />

20, 21, 23, 25, 29, 35, 36, 38,<br />

39, 40, 45, 46, 58, 59, 60, 62,<br />

63, 66, 70, 76, 78, 92, 93<br />

Congress, 18, 62, 67, 72<br />

Connally, John B., 75<br />

Connecticut, 9<br />

Constitution, 12, 25, 33, 40, 41, 63<br />

Control Data Corporation Model<br />

1604, 83<br />

Control Data Corporation Model<br />

6600, 83<br />

Cook, Abner, 24<br />

Cooke, Louis P., 13<br />

Cox, 9<br />

Cox, A. H. “Hamp,” 34, 35<br />

Cravens, Eddie, 68<br />

Cret, Paul P., 68<br />

Crockett, 17<br />

Crystal, the, 61<br />

Cuba, 52<br />

Current, The, 59<br />

D<br />

Daily State Journal, 33<br />

Dallas Morning News, 59<br />

Dallas, 42, 59, 76<br />

Davis, Edmond J., 34<br />

Dawson County, 6<br />

Defense Department, 83<br />

Del Valle, 71, 72<br />

Dell, Michael, 86<br />

Democrat, 34<br />

Democratic, 46, 66<br />

Denver, 59<br />

Depression, 66, 68, 70<br />

Dixie, 30<br />

Dobie, J. Frank, 69<br />

Driskill Hotel, 42, 63<br />

Driskill, Jesse Lincoln, 41, 42<br />

Durham’s Spring, 13<br />

Duval Street, 57<br />

E<br />

East Avenue, 76, 78<br />

Eberly, Angelina Belle, 18<br />

Edmonson, James, 19<br />

Eighteenth Street, 63<br />

Eighth Steet, 15<br />

Eleventh Street, 35, 66, 76<br />

England, 38, 47<br />

English, 33<br />

Espinosa, Isidro de, 5, 6, 7<br />

Estes, Athol, 50<br />

Europe, 62, 71<br />

Exposition Boulevard, 78<br />

F<br />

Fannin, James, 12<br />

Fanning, J.T., 48<br />

Federal Communications<br />

Commission, 75<br />

Federal, 26, 35, 70, 93<br />

Ferguson, James E., 62<br />

Ferris, Warren, 17<br />

Fifth Street, 14<br />

First Baptist Church, 29<br />

First National Bank, 51<br />

Florence, 60<br />

Florida, 34<br />

FM 1325, 79<br />

Fontaine, Edward, 12<br />

Ford, Marshall, 70<br />

Formosa, 50<br />

Fort Coleman, 11<br />

Fort Colorado, 11<br />

Fort Prairie, 11<br />

Fort Wayne Electric Company, 48<br />

Fort Worth, 42, 51, 59<br />

Fourth Street, 14<br />

Fourth Texas Congress, 16<br />

Fox Movietone News, 71<br />

Franco-Texan, 20<br />

Frisco Shop, 78<br />

Frizell, Joseph P., 46<br />

G<br />

Galveston, 20, 27, 28, 31, 41<br />

Gann, Harvey, 71, 72<br />

Georgetown, 45<br />

Georgia, 10<br />

German Reichstag, 38<br />

German Romanesque, 24<br />

German, 21, 26, 49<br />

Germany, 20, 23, 24, 60, 62<br />

GI Bill, 75<br />

Giraud, Francois P., 22<br />

Glenn, John W., 44<br />

Goddess of Liberty, 40<br />

Goliad, 12<br />

Gordon, Mary, 55<br />

Governor’s Mansion, 24, 29<br />

Grant, U. S., 35<br />

Gray, George H., 14<br />

Great Britain, 19<br />

Greek Revival, 21, 23, 24<br />

Guadalupe Street, 14, 60, 66, 76<br />

Gulf of Mexico, 6, 9, 43, 55<br />

H<br />

Hamburg, Germany, 60<br />

Hamburg-Bremen Fire Insurance<br />

Company, 60<br />

Harrell, Jacob, 11, 12<br />

Harris, L.B., 66<br />

Harrison, Charles A., 22<br />

Harvard, 42<br />

Hawaii, 72<br />

Hearst, William Randolph, 57<br />

Helena, Arkansas, 45<br />

Hempstead, 32, 50<br />

Highway 81, 76<br />

Hill Country, 21, 26, 39, 75<br />

Hill, Captain A. C., 35<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Commission, 78<br />

History of Texas, 19<br />

Hobby, Bill, 91<br />

Hobby, William P., 62<br />

Holly Street, 87<br />

Holt, William, 21, 32<br />

Honduras, 51<br />

Hood County, 41<br />

Hood, John Bell, 73<br />

Hornsby, Joseph, 19<br />

Hornsby, Reuben, 9, 10<br />

Hornsby’s Bend, 10<br />

Horton, A. C., 13<br />

House of Representatives, 25<br />

Houston and Texas Central, 28, 31,<br />

76<br />

Houston Chronicle, 78<br />

Houston Morning Star, 20<br />

Houston Post, 51<br />

Houston Telegraph<br />

and Texas Register, 11<br />

Houston, 11, 12, 15, 17, 18, 20, 25,<br />

26, 27, 28, 31, 32, 33, 51, 59<br />

Houston, Sam, 10, 11, 12, 17, 18,<br />

20, 25, 26, 27, 28, 39, 40, 50, 78<br />

Houston, Temple, 40<br />

Huntsville, 21, 28<br />

Hyde Park, 49, 50, 52<br />

I<br />

I-35, 90<br />

IBM, 79, 83, 84, 85, 86<br />

Illinois, 13<br />

Intel, 84<br />

Internet, 84<br />

Interregional Highway, 76<br />

Interregional, 76, 90<br />

Irish, 22<br />

Iron Front, The, 61<br />

J<br />

Japan, 75<br />

Jernigan, Albert J., 28<br />

Jim Crow, 38<br />

Johnson, Jim, 71<br />

Johnson, Lady Bird, 88<br />

Johnson, Lyndon Baines, 75, 88, 92<br />

Johnstown, 55<br />

Jones, Anson, 20<br />

K<br />

Kansas City, 35, 46<br />

Kansas, 21, 35, 42<br />

Kate Ward, 32<br />

Katy, 58, 59, 76<br />

Kellersberger, Julius G., 27, 28<br />

Kentucky, 9<br />

INDEX<br />

159


Killeen, 73<br />

King, John, 14<br />

Kinney’s Fort, 18<br />

KTBC, 77<br />

KVET, 75<br />

Kyle, Annie E., 39<br />

L<br />

La Grange, 13, 28<br />

Labrador, 33<br />

Ladies Aid Society, 27<br />

Ladies’ Needle Battalion, 27<br />

Lake <strong>Austin</strong>, 70, 87<br />

Lake Longhorn, 88<br />

Lake McDonald, 47, 50, 53<br />

Lake Tonkawa, 88<br />

Lake Travis, 70<br />

Lamar Boulevard, 76, 78<br />

Lamar, Mirabeau Buonaparte, 12, 13,<br />

15, 23, 40, 81, 88<br />

Lampasas, 51<br />

Land Office, 18, 24, 50<br />

Lavaca Street, 35<br />

LCRA, 70<br />

Lea, Margaret, 17<br />

Legislature, 22, 23, 38, 41, 42, 63,<br />

91<br />

Lewis, Mark B., 18<br />

Liendo, 50<br />

Limestone County, 21<br />

Lincoln, Abraham, 26, 41, 46<br />

Little Campus, 66<br />

Little Colony, 9<br />

Little Rock, 59<br />

Littlefield Building, 60<br />

Littlefield, George W., 60, 61, 62<br />

Llano River, 70<br />

Lone Star, 20<br />

Long, Walter, 55, 68, 73<br />

Longhorn Dam, 87<br />

Louisiana, 9<br />

Lower Colorado River Authority, 70<br />

Lyndon Baines Johnson Presidential<br />

Library and Museum, 90<br />

M<br />

Mabry, W.H., 52<br />

Magruder, John Bankhead, 27<br />

Maine, 29<br />

Manor, 92<br />

Mansfield, J. J., 70<br />

Marble Falls, 39<br />

Marines, 63<br />

Markley, T.J., 45<br />

Marshall Ford Dam, 70<br />

Matagorda, 13<br />

Mayfield, Nute, 36<br />

McBride, Henry, 37, 38<br />

MCC, 85, 92<br />

McClellan, Carol Keeton, 91<br />

McDonald, John, 45, 46, 47, 70<br />

McLean, J. H., 24<br />

Memorial Stadium, 64<br />

Menifee, William, 13<br />

Methodist, 16<br />

Mexican War, 39<br />

Mexican, 9, 10, 17, 18<br />

Mexico, 9, 10, 12, 13, 17, 26, 29, 39<br />

Microelectronics and Computer<br />

Technology Corporation<br />

Milam, Benjamin, 15<br />

Miller, Tom, 68, 70, 78<br />

Millett’s Opera House, 46<br />

Mina, 10<br />

Mina, Xavier, 10<br />

Mississippi, 21, 32, 92<br />

Missouri Pacific Line, 76<br />

Missouri, 9, 42<br />

Missouri, Kansas and Texas Land and<br />

Town Company, 48<br />

Missouri, Kansas and Texas Railroad,<br />

58<br />

Missouri-Pacific Railroad, 90<br />

Montgomery, Edmund, 50<br />

Montopolis bridge, 70<br />

Montopolis, 10, 14, 15, 36<br />

MoPac, 90<br />

Morphis, James M., 19<br />

Motorola, 84<br />

Mount Bonnell, 10, 30<br />

Mount Zion, 39<br />

Murrah, Pendleton, 29<br />

Myer’s Creamery, 66<br />

N<br />

Nacogdoches, 9, 13<br />

Nalle and Company, 45<br />

Nalle, Joseph, 45, 46<br />

Navy, 63, 72, 75<br />

Neches Street, 13<br />

Nelson, Willie, 89<br />

New Deal, 65, 66, 67<br />

New Mexico, 21<br />

New Orleans, 9, 20, 51, 61<br />

New York, 17, 45, 51<br />

Ney, Elisabet, 49, 50<br />

Night Hawk, 78<br />

Ninth Street, 60<br />

Nixon, Richard, 90<br />

O<br />

O. Henry, 51<br />

O’Quinn, Truman, 88<br />

Oakhill, 39<br />

Oatmanville, 39<br />

Ohio, 45, 55<br />

Oklahoma, 21<br />

Old Main, 41, 69<br />

Olivares, Antonio de, 5<br />

Onion Creek, 6<br />

P<br />

Palace Saloon, 45<br />

Palestine, 21<br />

Paramount, 71<br />

Paris, Texas, 46<br />

Pasadena, California, 57<br />

Pearl Harbor, 72<br />

Pearl House, 42<br />

Pease, Elisha, 24,29, 32<br />

Pecan Street, 14, 23, 32<br />

Permanent University Fund, 63<br />

Philadelphia, 68<br />

Philippines, 72<br />

Pickle, Jake, 65, 66, 67, 68, 75, 93<br />

Pig War, 20<br />

Pilie, L. J., 13<br />

Pine Street, 14<br />

Porter, William Sydney, 50, 51<br />

Posen, 23<br />

President’s House, 15, 23<br />

Preston, Jasper N., 42<br />

Public Works Administration, 67<br />

R<br />

Ranger, 11, 12, 38, 90<br />

Reagan County, 64<br />

Reconstruction Finance Corporation,<br />

68<br />

Reconstruction, 33, 35<br />

Red Cross, 63<br />

Red River, 13<br />

Republic Bank and Trust, 68<br />

Republic of Texas, 10, 11, 12, 13,<br />

14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21,<br />

22, 24, 25, 38, 40, 41<br />

Republican, 34, 26, 46<br />

Richmond, 59<br />

Ridgetop, 57, 66<br />

Rio Grande River, 5, 6, 7, 17<br />

Roark, Amos, 16<br />

Robert Mueller Airport, 68, 92<br />

Roberts, Oran M., 26, 34, 37, 39, 41,<br />

50<br />

Robertson’s Hill, 19<br />

Rodgers, Calbraith Perry Cal", 57"<br />

Rolling Stone, The, 51<br />

Roosevelt, Franklin D., 66, 67<br />

Ruffini, Frederick Ernst, 41<br />

S<br />

Sabine Pass, 27<br />

Saligny, Alphonse Dubois de, 19, 20<br />

Salt Lake City, 59<br />

Saltillo, 10<br />

San Antonio de Bejar, 5<br />

San Antonio, 5, 9, 10, 15, 17, 18,<br />

22, 27, 32, 58, 59, 61, 67, 76<br />

San Augustine, 13<br />

San Francisco, 61<br />

San Gabriel River, 7<br />

San Jacinto, 11, 12, 17, 26, 27<br />

San Juan Bautista, 5<br />

San Marcos River, 5<br />

San Marcos, 20, 73<br />

Sandusky, William H., 13<br />

Santa Anna, General Antonio López<br />

de, 10, 17, 26<br />

Santa Fe, 13<br />

Santa Rita Number 1, 64<br />

Scarborough and Hicks, 61<br />

Scarborough Building, 62<br />

Scarbrough’s, 66<br />

Schlecht, Friedrich, 20, 21<br />

Scholz Garden, 40<br />

School for the Blind, 63<br />

Schoolfield, Charles, 13<br />

Seider’s Springs, 29<br />

Selectric Composer, 83<br />

Sematech, 92<br />

Senate, 20, 22, 62<br />

Session Building, 23<br />

Seventh Street, 15, 21, 42<br />

Shakespeare, 68<br />

Shaw, James B., 19<br />

Shipe, Monroe Martin, 48, 49, 50<br />

Shoal Creek, 11, 21, 29, 44, 67, 88,<br />

91<br />

Sixth Street, 13, 14, 23, 29, 42, 59,<br />

60, 62, 66, 88<br />

Sixth U.S. Cavalry, 29<br />

Smith, B. J., 27<br />

Smith, Colonel Thomas, 18<br />

Smith, Dr. Ashbel, 41<br />

Southern National Insurance<br />

Company, 60<br />

Southern Pacific, 76<br />

Spain, 7, 9, 52<br />

Spanish, 5, 7, 8, 9, 13, 35<br />

Spanish-American War, 52<br />

Speedway, 49<br />

Spring Creek, 20<br />

St. David’s Church, 31<br />

St. Edward’s University, 63<br />

St. Louis, 42<br />

Stars and Stripes, 20<br />

State Arsenal, 34<br />

State Building Commission, 78<br />

State Fair of Texas, 49<br />

State Library, 78<br />

State Lunatic Asylum, 24<br />

State Treasury, 29<br />

Stephen F. <strong>Austin</strong> Hotel, 63, 71<br />

Strategic Air Command, 93<br />

Stremme, Conrad, 24<br />

Sulphur Springs Draw, 6<br />

Swiss, 27<br />

T<br />

Tactical Air Command, 92<br />

Tannehill, Jesse, 9, 10<br />

Taylor, Charles S., 26<br />

Taylor, Matthew Addison, 27<br />

Tehuacana, 21<br />

Tejas Indians, 5<br />

Tenth Street, 60, 67<br />

Tenth Ward, 68<br />

Tew, Charles, 58<br />

Texas A&M, 64<br />

Texas Bank and Trust, 68<br />

Texas Congress, 20<br />

Texas Department of Public Safety,<br />

90<br />

Texas Independence Day, 78<br />

Texas National Guard, 51<br />

Texas Rangers, 38<br />

Texas Research Associates<br />

Corporation, 82<br />

Texas Rifles, 51<br />

Texas Siftings, 37, 38<br />

Texas State Gazette, 21<br />

Texas State Times, 23<br />

Texas Supreme Court, 34, 46, 78<br />

Texas Volunteer Guard, 51<br />

Texian, 10, 12<br />

Textran Corporation, 82<br />

Third Street, 12, 76<br />

Third Texas Congress, 12<br />

Thompson, Ben, 61<br />

Thorp Spring, 41<br />

Thurber, 58, 60<br />

Tigris and Euphrates, 9<br />

Tolman, Tom, 29, 30<br />

Tom Green Rifles, 27<br />

Tom Miller Dam, 87<br />

Tonkawas, 88<br />

Tower, 69, 90<br />

Town Lake, 88<br />

Tracor, 82<br />

Travis County, 5, 6, 7, 10, 16, 19,<br />

21, 26, 27, 36, 65, 70, 72<br />

Travis Rifles, 27, 34, 35<br />

Travis, William Barrett, 16<br />

Tyler, 41<br />

U<br />

U.S. Census, 21, 36<br />

Union, 20, 21, 23, 26, 27, 28, 29,<br />

30, 34<br />

United States, 19, 20, 21, 25, 26<br />

University of Texas, 38, 40, 41, 42,<br />

43, 55, 59, 60, 62, 63, 64, 65,<br />

68, 69, 75, 77, 81, 84, 86, 90<br />

UT, 41, 63, 64, 65, 66, 68, 75, 83<br />

V<br />

Vásquez, General Rafael, 17, 18<br />

Vietnam, 90<br />

Vin Fiz, 57, 58, 68<br />

Virginia, 9, 45<br />

W<br />

Waco, 33, 41, 57<br />

Walker, Lewis, 58<br />

Wall Street Journal, 81<br />

Waller Creek, 13, 27<br />

Waller, Edwin, 13, 14, 16, 26, 92<br />

Walnut Creek, 11, 12<br />

Walsh, William C., 44<br />

Walton, William Martin (Buck), 66<br />

War Assets Administration, 75<br />

Washington, 18, 20, 21, 62<br />

Washington-on-the-Brazos,<br />

18, 20, 21<br />

Waterloo, 11, 12, 13, 14, 21, 24<br />

Waugh, Reverend Mr. Beverly, 16<br />

Webb, Walter Prescott, 59, 60, 69<br />

Webber, John F., 9<br />

Webberville, 70<br />

Webster, H. Daniel, 61<br />

Weddell, Wray, 79, 81, 83<br />

Wells, Martin, 9<br />

Wende, 23<br />

West Columbia, 11<br />

Wheeler, T. B. , 34<br />

White House, 66<br />

White, Mark, 91<br />

Wilbarger, Josiah, 9<br />

Williams, Samuel May, 10<br />

Williamson County, 7, 60<br />

Wilson, Eddie, 90<br />

Woodlawn, 29<br />

Wooldridge, A. P., 43, 44, 45, 59, 60<br />

Wooldridge, Alexander Penn, 43<br />

Works Progress Administration, 67<br />

World War I, 68<br />

WPA, 67, 68, 70<br />

Wroe, H.A., 68<br />

Wyoming, 21<br />

X<br />

XIT, 39<br />

Y<br />

Yale, 41, 43<br />

Yankee Doodle, 30<br />

Z<br />

Zilker Park, 8<br />

HISTORIC AUSTIN<br />

160


The mission of the<br />

Heritage Society of <strong>Austin</strong><br />

is to promote and<br />

foster the preservation<br />

and appreciation<br />

of <strong>Austin</strong>’s unique<br />

architectural, historical,<br />

and cultural heritage.

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