36 EMULSION WORK - Silverprint
36 EMULSION WORK - Silverprint
36 EMULSION WORK - Silverprint
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<strong>EMULSION</strong> <strong>WORK</strong><br />
Emulsions - Introduction<br />
Commercial photographic printing papers, although still<br />
available in quite a variety of types and finishes, impose<br />
several limitations. The paper type is pre-ordained by the<br />
manufacturer and must be a highly machined product<br />
that will pass through the elaborate manufacturing<br />
process. Probably the greatest constraint is that the<br />
printer is limited to working upon a two dimensional<br />
plane.<br />
Self-coated emulsion offers the simplest way to unshackle<br />
oneself from the manufacturer, as an image can be<br />
placed on a wide variety of surfaces, many unusable with<br />
other alternative photographic processes.<br />
Now that high quality emulsions have become available<br />
in a packaged form, serious experimentation is taking<br />
place for what appears to be the first time in the history<br />
of the medium. Shape, dimension, surface quality and<br />
type of base material are all much more in the hands of<br />
the print-maker.<br />
Yet though a great range of innovative possibilities have<br />
opened up, at the same time emulsion can be used as a<br />
fine printing tool, enabling individually crafted photographic<br />
papers to be produced - which are otherwise<br />
unavailable from any manufacturer.<br />
However, simply mimicking manufactured materials need<br />
not be the goal - one could use them in the first place.<br />
Furthermore the most successful works with emulsion<br />
are often technically imperfect. A certain expressive<br />
spontaneity and randomness is one of the reasons for<br />
working with the medium. This involves stepping away<br />
from the machine consistency - and hence somewhat<br />
clinical character - of regular photographic products.<br />
A few practical points<br />
Storage<br />
Emulsions do not keep well when stored at relatively<br />
high temperatures, and should always be cold stored<br />
(down to 4° C. preferably) prior to use. Don’t worry about<br />
this if you are going to use it in a day or two, but for any<br />
length of time, return it to the fridge. Especially, do not<br />
buy emulsion from any outlet that is obviously not cold<br />
storing it. Ours is always fresh, and is cold stored from<br />
manufacture (in the UK) until it goes over the counter.<br />
Any emulsion that has been left un-fridged for say, a<br />
year probably is not worth bothering with. Do not waste<br />
your time, get some fresh product.<br />
Expectations<br />
It is possible to get a ‘result’ with emulsion quite easily,<br />
to get consistency and smooth coating very much more<br />
difficult - even photographic coating companies can have<br />
technical difficulties, even failures of whole batches, and<br />
they are in the manufacturing business! Regard it as<br />
another craft process, requiring the development of<br />
experience and techniques to be able to work<br />
confidently with it.<br />
Fog<br />
This is the constant enemy, fogging will build up by<br />
exposure to safelights during coating, drying, and after<br />
exposure during development. This is a main reason for<br />
always using fresh emulsion, it gives a head start in<br />
minimising the fog level.<br />
SE1 Emulsion<br />
Further Reading<br />
The great range of artistic possibilities and variety of<br />
techniques offered by liquid emulsion is explored further<br />
in Silver Gelatin: A User’s Guide to Liquid Photographic<br />
Emulsion, published by Aurum Press. This was<br />
written in-house here in 1995, and has remained in print<br />
ever since, being the only book dealing exclusively with<br />
emulsion techniques.<br />
<strong>36</strong><br />
SE1 Emulsion is made for us by one of the main photographic<br />
manufacturers in this country, this is a normal<br />
contrast bromide emulsion which is versatile and easy to<br />
use. Contrast: reasonably hard grade 2. The high silver<br />
content allows a certain degree of dilution with water in<br />
many cases. If applying to a transparent medium use full<br />
strength, but on opaque surfaces such as paper do tests<br />
using 1 + 1 and 1 + 2 dilutions with water. SE1’s substantial<br />
concentration of high bloom gelatin yields good<br />
adhesion to many surfaces, often without subbing<br />
beforehand. Processing is as for normal paper- the emulsion<br />
is quite robust, and does not usually need hardening,<br />
or the use of slow fixing agents. The image colour is<br />
neutral to slightly warm-black, and it reacts well to toners<br />
of all types including selenium, even lith. development. A<br />
separate subbing solution is available for optional use<br />
when coating smooth surfaces such as glass. Please<br />
note we always cold store emulsion- avoid buying it from<br />
any outlet that does not fridge it.<br />
Download the PDF of the emulsion instructions from our<br />
website - it contains the most essential details to start<br />
working with emulsions.<br />
67 607 240ml SE1 15.32 18.00<br />
50 890 1 litre SE1 45.00 52.88<br />
61 630 5 litre SE1 160.00 188.00<br />
15 560 Subbing / Hardening Solution, powders for 1l. 2.00 2.35<br />
MACO Emulsions<br />
The Hamburg-based photo. distributor MACO launched a<br />
range of emulsions several years ago, which are an<br />
alternative to the ‘SE’ variety.<br />
Available as a single graded hard-contrast emulsion, or a<br />
variable contrast emulsion that can be used in conjunction<br />
with filters, as well as several accessory products<br />
including hardener and gelatin substrate.<br />
26 268 MACO Normal/Hard Emulsion 500ml 25.49 29.95<br />
25 302 MACO VC Emulsion 500ml 25.49 29.95<br />
42 334 Hardening Additive 6.40 7.52<br />
51 752 Photo Gelatin 6.99 8.21<br />
Silver Gelatin is split into two clearly defined sections:<br />
the first section features the work of photographers and<br />
artists including David Scheinmann, Chris Nash, Lana<br />
Wong, Melanie Manchot, Jennifer Bates, Gary Kirkham<br />
and Jane Quinn, including many colour illustrations and<br />
several interviews. The second section is a clear and<br />
concise technical guide, taking the reader comprehensively<br />
through all the necessary information needed to<br />
produce exciting images on hand-made paper, plaster,<br />
fabric, glass, glazed ceramics, rubber, slate, metal, painted<br />
surfaces, wood, plastics, stone, and canvas.<br />
Technical sub-sections detail, step-by-step, the ins and<br />
outs of Base Selection; Emulsion Coating; Printing and<br />
Processing; Finishing and Storage; Troubleshooting;<br />
Camera Plates; and application of further techniques<br />
including toning. Formularies of print developers, stopbaths,<br />
bleaches, toners and the emulsions themselves<br />
complete this exhaustive publication. Accompanying the<br />
text are many full-colour examples.
ALTERNATIVE PROCESSES<br />
INTRODUCTION<br />
SALTED PAPER<br />
Alternative photographic processes are myriad, although<br />
those commonly practised are the ones detailed on these<br />
pages. Most originate from the earliest days of photography,<br />
and are evolutionary steps towards the sophisticated<br />
films and papers used today. These notes were originally<br />
supplied by Hope Kingsley, and contain enough<br />
information to start experimenting with the processes.<br />
The series of kits manufactured by Fotospeed are a<br />
possible way of easing oneself into the processes,<br />
perhaps before buying the raw chemicals oneself and<br />
making prints from the absolute basics. A particularly<br />
good workshop book is ‘Spirits of Salts’, details opposite.<br />
William Henry Fox Talbot’s original salted silver nitrate<br />
paper evolved between 1834 and 1839. Talbot used<br />
smooth writing paper washed in a weak solution of common<br />
salt, dried, then coated with a solution of silver<br />
nitrate, resulting in light-sensitive silver chloride. Once<br />
dry, the paper could be printed out in strong sunlight. The<br />
resulting image of metallic silver was fixed in a strong<br />
solution of salt.<br />
Talbot refined the process, and Sir John Herschel suggested<br />
sodium thiosulphate (hypo) as a fixing agent.<br />
Salted paper was the basis for Talbot’s Calotype process,<br />
which used silver nitrate and gallic acid to develop up a<br />
latent image in the exposed paper, and is the foundation<br />
of modern silver-based photography.<br />
The Process<br />
Paper: good quality art paper.<br />
Note: rinse utensils, etc. with distilled water before use.<br />
Salting solution<br />
1.8% solution Sodium Chloride<br />
(1.8g to 100 ml purified water)<br />
Salt the paper by soaking in the salting solution for about<br />
2 minutes. Be sure to disperse any air bubbles that may<br />
form on the surface. Blot with photographic blotting paper,<br />
and allow to dry.<br />
Sensitising solution<br />
3g silver nitrate to 20ml. distilled water<br />
20% solution Citric Acid (saturated solution, 2g to 10ml<br />
distilled water)<br />
Mix 3 ml Silver Nitrate to 0.3 ml Citric Acid - just before<br />
coating.<br />
Sensitise the paper in subdued tungsten light<br />
Dry paper in the dark, then re-humidify over bath of<br />
washing soda or plain water.<br />
Printing<br />
Contact print by inspection in sunlight or under an ultraviolet<br />
lamp, until the image is 1/2 stop over-exposed.<br />
Wash the print in running water until the milky silver compound<br />
has completely dispersed (2-20 minutes, depending<br />
on paper weight.<br />
Fixing<br />
Fix the print in a plain sodium thiosulphate fixer for 5-30<br />
minutes (depending on the paper, as above).<br />
Wash in running water for 15 to 30 minutes, depending<br />
on the paper weight.<br />
Salt Printing Kit<br />
Fotospeed produce a Salt Printing Kit. If you have experience<br />
of this the best route is buying the raw chemicals,<br />
but if you need an introduction this is a good way of getting<br />
going.<br />
49 006 Salt Printing Kit 38.30 45.00<br />
Recommended Reading<br />
KALLITYPE PROCESS<br />
37<br />
“Spirits of Salts’ is a packed 140 page book, dealing<br />
practically and comprehensively with all the alternativephoto.<br />
processes, from silver through Cyanotype to<br />
Platinum, even featuring chapters on getting started with<br />
Photogravure. Written by Randall Webb and put<br />
together here at <strong>Silverprint</strong>, this is aimed to be<br />
an essential text for anyone venturing into alternative<br />
processes for the first time.<br />
Chapters include; Salt Printing, Printing-Out-<br />
Paper, Kallitype, Platinum & Palladium,<br />
Cyanotype, Gum Printing, Bromoil, Oil Printing.<br />
Separate sections cover general information,<br />
including exposure, making large format negatives,<br />
selection of paper etc. A resource section<br />
lists virtually all other reference books, and<br />
related websites and e-mail bulletin boards.<br />
Unique in providing a simple darkroom manual,<br />
giving a comprehensive survey of the history,<br />
theory and practice of all the ways of putting<br />
photographic images on paper, as well as on other surfaces<br />
such as fabric, ceramics, wood, metal and glass. It<br />
contains reference only to those processes that are<br />
capable of being worked by the average competent photographer<br />
or printmaker. It also avoids those processes<br />
that are either unsafe,<br />
impractical or for which materials are no longer available<br />
and which are of academic interest only.<br />
This is an iron-silver process. In 1842 Sir John Herschel<br />
invented the chryso-type process, using a strong solution<br />
of ferric ammonium citrate as a light-sensitive coating on<br />
paper. Once exposed, the paper was developed up with<br />
silver nitrate (Herschel first used gold chloride), washed,<br />
and fixed in hypo (another of Herschel's many<br />
innovations).<br />
The latterly termed Argerotype process was not much<br />
used, but in 1889, W. J. Nicol based his Kallitype<br />
process on Herschel’s work. Known as the ‘poor mans<br />
platinum’, the Kallitype had many complex and sometimes<br />
highly toxic variations. In its most basic (and least<br />
toxic) form, a light sensitive coating of ferric ammonium<br />
citrate and silver nitrate produces a sepia image of great<br />
richness.<br />
The Process<br />
Sensitiser<br />
Note: Rinse all utensils in distilled water before use.<br />
Make 3 separate solutions;<br />
6g Ammonium ferric citrate in 22 ml distilled water<br />
1g Tartaric acid in 22 ml distilled water<br />
2.50g Silver nitrate in 22 ml distilled water<br />
The tartaric acid should be freshly mixed just before<br />
combining the solutions to sensitise. The other solutions<br />
will keep in brown bottles, away from light. The<br />
ammonium ferric citrate solution may need to be filtered<br />
before use.<br />
Mix the first two solutions. Add the silver nitrate slowly, a<br />
few drops at a time, stirring well to be sure that there is<br />
no milky precipitate.<br />
Paper<br />
Use a good quality art paper.<br />
Sensitise the paper by coating (see ‘Cyanotype’<br />
for suggestions) in subdued tungsten light.<br />
Dry in the dark.<br />
Printing<br />
Expose in sunlight or by ultra-violet lamp in contact<br />
under a negative until the image prints out. Do not overprint:<br />
the image will intensify during fixing. Wash in running<br />
water until all milky silver nitrate residue disappears.<br />
Fixing<br />
12g Sodium thiosulphate in 1 litre water<br />
Fix until image reaches maximum density: beware of<br />
over-fixing, which will erode the image. Wash thoroughly<br />
in running water (up to 30 minutes if thick paper is used).<br />
Note: Iron-silver prints may be toned with gold toner as<br />
per (Talbot’s) salted paper.
ALTERNATIVE PROCESSES<br />
ARGYROTYPE<br />
Some Alternatives in the<br />
Chemistry<br />
If Silver(I) Oxide is difficult to<br />
obtain, 8.4 g Silver Carbonate<br />
may be used instead; but it<br />
should be dissolved at room<br />
temperature in a tall vessel -<br />
a 250 or 500 cc measuring<br />
cylinder to contain the spray;<br />
adding the Silver Carbonate<br />
in small portions, and allowing<br />
the effervescence to die down<br />
each time.<br />
Silver nitrate, more commonly<br />
available and cheaper may<br />
also be used. Precipitate 7 g<br />
Silver(I) Oxide from a solution<br />
of 10.3 g Silver Nitrate by<br />
adding a solution of 2.5 g<br />
Sodium Hydroxide; after filtration<br />
and washing, the moist<br />
precipitate may be dissolved<br />
in the Sulphamic Acid.<br />
The inherent problem of the iron-based silver processes<br />
lies in the danger of leaving residual ferric iron in the<br />
print, to its eventual undoing as the image is attacked.<br />
The Argyrotype process, developed by Mike Ware, has<br />
been designed to avert this problem, and ingeniously<br />
uses a little known silver salt, silver sulphamate,<br />
manufactured ‘in-situ’. The resulting acidic sensitiser can<br />
be washed out of the paper cleanly. Brief working details<br />
are included here, and we can supply the Fotospeed kit,<br />
as well as the sensitiser on its own.<br />
For more information go to Mike Ware’s website;<br />
www.mikeware.demon.uk<br />
Argyrotype Sensitiser<br />
Chemicals needed (GPR grade ca 98%)<br />
Sulphamic acid 7.6g. Silver (1) Oxide 7.6 g. Ammonium<br />
Ferric Citrate (green) 23g. Tween 20 0.8ml (surfactant,<br />
assists spreading, poly-oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate)<br />
Distilled water to make 100 ml.<br />
Procedure for making up<br />
Use subdued tungsten light.<br />
Dissolve the sulphamic acid in about 700ml of distilled<br />
water at room temperature.<br />
Add the powdered silver(1) oxide in small portions with<br />
vigorous stirring so that it dissolves over a period of<br />
about 20 minutes or so. (Ignore any grey crystals that<br />
separate out at this stage.)<br />
Add the ammonium ferric citrate in portions with continuous<br />
stirring until it is dissolved. The solution will appear<br />
murky green at this stage.<br />
Add the Tween 20, mixing well, and make it up to 100ml.<br />
with distilled water. Filter the solution, and store it in a<br />
brown bottle, kept in the dark at room temperature.<br />
Notes: On storage, the sensitiser may slowly deposit<br />
a small amount of black solid. This does not<br />
significantly impair its strength, but if troublesome it<br />
should be filtered off. To make a more contrasty sensitiser,<br />
an additional 10g of sulphamic acid may be added<br />
per litre of solution.<br />
Coating and Exposure<br />
Coating is most easily done using a glass rod as spreader<br />
as under ‘Coating Methods’. Dry thoroughly, as wet<br />
sensitiser will ruin a negative. Pre-humidifying the paper<br />
will give a cooler purple/brown. Not all papers are suitable,<br />
do some tests. Printing is by contact, using Ultra-<br />
Violet or sunlight. Exposure time is likely to be 1 or 2<br />
minutes in sunlight, and can be gauged to some extent<br />
by the degree of printing-out visible from the front of the<br />
contact frame, although a ‘split’ frame is a great help.<br />
Argyrotype Processing<br />
Immerse in running water (or 3 or 4 changes<br />
of static water) until the yellow background has disappeared,<br />
which will take about 5 mins.<br />
Immerse in a 2% sodium thiosulphate fixing bath for<br />
about 3 mins. The image will cool.<br />
Wash in running water (or static changes) for about 20<br />
mins.<br />
Drain and air dry. The image tones “dry-down’’ somewhat.<br />
Notes: The dilute fixing bath will need replacement frequently.<br />
This should be carried out when the colour shift<br />
from orange to brown becomes sluggish.<br />
Over-exposed prints may be “reduced” by prolonging the<br />
fixing time Very delicate gradation in the high values<br />
may be obtained by leaving the exposed print in a humid<br />
atmosphere (100% R.H.) for about 10 minutes before<br />
wet processing.<br />
The Argyrotype Kit<br />
Contains: Sensitiser 50ml (sufficient for 40 - 8x10in<br />
applications), Syringe 2ml, Fabriano paper 5 sheets<br />
8x10in, Kodak direct duplicating film 5 sheets 5x4in,<br />
Two glass coating rods 4in and 8in, Hypo crystals,<br />
Protective gloves and full detailed instructions for use.<br />
Sensitiser, Glass coating rods and Hypo are available<br />
separately along with traditional contact frames with<br />
hinged backs in 8x10in and 12x16in.<br />
9 430 Argyrotype Kit 35.19 41.35<br />
16 532 Argyrotype Sensitiser [included in kit] 19.33 22.72<br />
PRINTING-OUT PAPER<br />
A traditional POP (printing out paper) produces a strong<br />
image purely by the action of light. Very slow, UV or<br />
sunlight must be used, which requires contact printing to<br />
a same size negative. The colour on first exposure is<br />
aubergine purple, which turns to amber when fixed in<br />
sodium thiosulphate. If the original colour and tonal<br />
range is required, the print can be gold toned before<br />
fixing, (see examples in the news pages at the back).<br />
38<br />
The Chicago Albumen Works / Kentmere Photographic<br />
Limited CENTENNIAL Printing-Out Paper (P.O.P.) is a<br />
silver chloride, gelatine emulsion coated onto double<br />
weight fibre-base paper stock. The emulsion surface is<br />
glossy, with a very fine lustre. The emulsion contains a<br />
slight excess of silver nitrate, and thus will print-out with<br />
great intensity. No developer is required; the image is<br />
formed directly by the action of the light during exposure.<br />
The color of the printed-out image may be variously<br />
described as blood-red, rust-red, brick-red or plum-red.<br />
The color of the processed image will range from<br />
orange-brown for prints which are merely fixed, through a<br />
rich chocolate brown for prints which receive a moderate<br />
toning, to purple-brown for prints receiving maximum<br />
toning.<br />
The paper can be handled in dim incandescent illumination<br />
for short periods of time. It is sensitive to blue and<br />
ultraviolet light only, and its printing speed is extremely<br />
slow. Due to the reactivity of the silver nitrate and the<br />
absence of super-coatings this paper fingerprints easily.<br />
Handle with clean and absolutely dry fingers, by the<br />
edges only.<br />
Storage<br />
The shelf life of this paper will be determined by the temperature<br />
and humidity of its storage conditions. It is<br />
imperative that unprocessed paper, exposed and<br />
unexposed, be stored in its original plastic envelope at a<br />
temperature of 21°C (70° F) or lower, and at a relative<br />
humidity of 50% or lower. Shelf life under these<br />
conditions should be at least one year. Some yellowing<br />
of the emulsion is normal, and a large percentage of any<br />
visible yellowing will be removed during processing. For<br />
longer storage, it is highly recommended to seal the<br />
plastic envelope and refrigerate or freeze the paper.<br />
Exposure<br />
The printing speed of this paper requires exposures be<br />
made by contact under illumination by a strong ultraviolet<br />
light source, such as direct sunlight, open sky, mercury<br />
vapor lamp, or black light printer. Exposure times with<br />
such sources will be measured in minutes. Increased<br />
contrast, of more than one printing grade, may be<br />
achieved by exposing for extremely long durations (24<br />
hours or more) under fluorescent illumination. A splitback<br />
printing frame is customarily used, as the degree of<br />
print-out may be inspected without losing registration<br />
between the negative and the printing paper. (Be sure to<br />
inspect in dim light so as not to fog the image.) Print until<br />
the image is somewhat darker than desired in the finished<br />
print, for processing lightens the printed-out image.<br />
Printing times using daylight will be varied, with the exact<br />
time depending on the density of the negative being<br />
printed and the quality of the light, ie the sky conditions,<br />
the time of day, and the time of year.<br />
While the colour of the printed-out image will be a rich<br />
red-brown color, its exact shade will vary depending on<br />
the temperature during printing, the humidity, the nature<br />
of the light source, the characteristics of the negative,<br />
and the particular emulsion number in use. However, differences<br />
in the print-out color have little bearing on the<br />
color of the finished print, for toning and fixing are what<br />
principally determine the final hue.<br />
For full instructions and more background material download<br />
a copy of Chicago Albumen Company leaflet from<br />
this address;<br />
Web address: /www.albumenworks.com/directions.html<br />
Code Net +VAT<br />
8x10 10 sh 43 896 8.60 10.11<br />
9.5x12 10sh 43 903 12.30 14.45<br />
12x16 10sh 43 928 20.50 24.09<br />
1 metre x 10 metres 44 026 164.00 192.70
ALTERNATIVE PROCESSES<br />
BROMOIL<br />
The Bromoil Process<br />
In 1907, working from the research of Howard Farmer<br />
and E.J. Wall, C. Welbourne Piper publicised the working<br />
details of a process that produced an inked image from a<br />
silver bromide paper print. A non-supercoated paper<br />
print is treated in a dichromated bleach solution, converting<br />
the silver image back into silver bromide. The bleaching<br />
bath also hardens or tans the gelatine in proportion<br />
to the amount of silver present. The print is washed in<br />
water, swelling the gelatine into a relief matrix that will<br />
accept greasy ink in the shadow and mid-tone areas, but<br />
repel it in the highlights (where the water content is highest).<br />
Once the matrix has been drained and blotted, the<br />
original photographic image can be inked up with a large<br />
blunt-cut brush, or small rubber brayer. Bromoil transfer<br />
is a variant of the above wherein the inked matrix is<br />
printed onto a second sheet of paper. A mangle press or<br />
the back of a spoon can be used for the transfer, which<br />
is suitable for colour work as a series of selective matrices<br />
can be printed in register to produce a coloured<br />
image.<br />
Materials<br />
Paper- Kentmere Art Document bromide enlarging<br />
paper, contrast grades 2 or 3 Print the bromide print for<br />
both highlight and shadow detail, printing somewhat<br />
darker and flatter than usual. Develop, wash (do not use<br />
stop bath) and fix using the solutions below, and wash<br />
thoroughly.<br />
Developer - use a developer having a minimal hardening<br />
effect on the gelatine of the paper: Amidol and<br />
Sodium Sulphite, or: Kodak Dektol diluted 1 part developer<br />
to 10 parts water.<br />
Fixer - without hardeners. A basic fix normally contains<br />
acidifiers but no hardeners. If in doubt, try Tetenal<br />
Variofix, the new powder packing ‘Silverfix’, or a 100<br />
grams per litre solution of plain hypo (sodium thiosulphate)<br />
with 5 grams / litre of added sodium bisulphite or<br />
sodium metabisulphite. These fixers can also be used to<br />
fix the bleached print<br />
Bromoil Bleaching Bath<br />
Copper sulphate15 g<br />
Potassium bromide 15 g<br />
Potassium dichromate 1 g<br />
Mix in 375ml. distilled water, then top up with water to<br />
make 500ml. stock solution. Store in a dark brown bottle,<br />
away from heat and light.<br />
Dilute for use: 1 part stock to 3 parts water. Bleach in the<br />
bleaching bath until the image is a faint beige colour, and<br />
leave in the bath for half again as long. Wash thoroughly<br />
and fix as usual. A grey-ish image should be barely<br />
visible.<br />
Dry the print, and store away from light.<br />
Inking<br />
Adana letterpress inks or Charbonnel litho. inks. Add<br />
French chalk to increase tacky consistency, a solvent is<br />
extra-refined lighter fuel.<br />
Soak the print in water at 20°C for at least 10 minutes.<br />
Place the print face up on a paper towel to blot water off<br />
the back, then face up on a smooth waterproof surface.<br />
A tilted sheet of melamine or plexiglass is suitable as an<br />
easel.<br />
Blott the surface of the print (gently) with a damp<br />
chamois. Work over the print with brayer, covering entire<br />
surface quickly then more carefully redistributing and<br />
clearing highlights and mid-tones. Or, with a brush, start<br />
with a hard consistency of litho ink and hop this onto the<br />
entire surface of the print. Work over the print with shorter<br />
hopping strokes to redistribute the ink from the highlight<br />
to shadow areas. Once inked, the print will take<br />
about 24 hours to dry thoroughly.<br />
Bromoil Brushes<br />
These are British made to original specifications, and are<br />
produced in 2 qualities. Both are available in a range of<br />
5 sizes. These are basic quality, ie without copper wire<br />
tying, set in plain metal ferrule.<br />
12 816 No 2 Bromoil Brush 3.28 3.85<br />
22 442 No 6 Bromoil Brush 3.73 4.38<br />
22 479 No 8 Bromoil Brush 4.75 5.58<br />
22 481 No 10 Bromoil Brush 5.94 6.98<br />
22 494 No 12 Bromoil Brush 6.98 8.20<br />
Bromoil Video<br />
39<br />
The roots of the process can be traced back to the early<br />
1800’s, but it was not until the early 20’th century that the<br />
technique was perfected, reaching its zenith of popularity<br />
in the 1920’s and 1930’s. The late Norman Gryspeerdt<br />
made bromoil pictures for over 50 years, and was one of<br />
the most significant exponents of this technique world<br />
wide.In this video he describes and demonstrates the<br />
technique, so that by following the various steps the photographer<br />
will quickly obtain a working knowledge of the<br />
process and be ready to commence making pictures.<br />
Stocked in DVD format.<br />
21 883 Gryspeerdt Bromoil DVD 16.96 19.93<br />
Bromoil Kit<br />
The Fotospeed Bromoil Kit contains : Bleach Tanning<br />
Chemistry, Bromoil Paper 8x10in 10 sheets (a non<br />
supercoated, low contrast paper on a D/W fibre base -<br />
specifically made for the Bromoil process), one real<br />
Bromoil brush, 4 Inks (Black, Yellow, Magenta and<br />
Cyan), Inking tile, gloves and full detailed instructions.<br />
Bromoil Paper in 12x16(10) and 16x20(10), Inks (black,<br />
yellow, magenta, cyan), brushes (in varying sizes) and<br />
chemistry are available separately.<br />
23 842 Bromoil Kit 34.00 39.95<br />
27 694 Black Ink 30ml 4.32 5.08<br />
27 701 Yellow Ink 30ml 4.32 5.08<br />
27 726 Magenta Ink 30ml 4.32 5.08<br />
27 738 Cyan Ink 30ml 4.32 5.08<br />
27 740 Bromoil Chemical Pack 4 l. 9.18 10.79<br />
Paper for Bromoil<br />
The most suitable paper is one that we originally<br />
comissioned as a special making for the process, then<br />
retitled as the new Kentmere Document Art, and now<br />
about to be discontinued! Check with us or our website<br />
for remaining stock of this paper.See page 5.<br />
The Art of Bromoil & Transfer<br />
Written by the Canadian Bromoil expert David Lewis, this<br />
is a beautifully illustrated self-published book delving into<br />
all aspects of this resurging medium. As well as extensive<br />
details of working methods, contains many portfolio<br />
examples reproduced by full colour printing.<br />
1994 David W. Lewis, Hardback, 120 pages<br />
25 889 The Art of Bromoil & Transfer 25.00
ALTERNATIVE PROCESSES<br />
CYANOTYPE<br />
New CYANOTYPE<br />
Invented by Sir John Herschel in 1841, this simple<br />
process gives a continuous-tone image of Prussian Blue<br />
using a sensitising solution of Ammonium Ferric Citrate<br />
and Potassium Ferricyanide. These iron salts, when<br />
exposed to natural or artificial ultraviolet light, are<br />
reduced to their ferrous state, producing a high contrast<br />
blue image when oxidised. Oxidation is hastened by<br />
immersion in running water, which also washes away the<br />
unused iron salts.<br />
The Process<br />
Solution A 65 g Ammonium ferric citrate (green) in<br />
distilled water to make 250ml total.<br />
Solution B 23 g Potassium ferricyanide in distilled water<br />
to make 250ml total.<br />
Note : distilled water is more commonly known as<br />
'purified water'.<br />
Store solutions separately in brown glass bottles, away<br />
from light. Filter before use, and mix in equal proportions<br />
A to B.<br />
Printing<br />
Paper: For all alternative processes high quality art<br />
paper such as those used in printmaking or watercolour<br />
work are most suitable. Somerset Satin and Waterford<br />
Satin are good papers to start with, however it is<br />
advisable to make tests to find a paper to suit your<br />
requirements.<br />
Coat in subdued tungsten light, and dry away from light<br />
and heat. Print by contact (in a printing frame with a full<br />
sized negative) in sunlight or by an ultra-violet light<br />
source until the shadows look bronzed. Allow at least<br />
one stop over-exposure to compensate for loss of<br />
density during processing.<br />
Development<br />
Immerse in running water, and wash until the chartreuse<br />
stain of the ferric ammonium citrate has completely<br />
disappeared. Take care to avoid excessive washing as<br />
this will tend to wash out the image.<br />
THE CYANOTYPE KIT - Contains: Sensitiser 50ml<br />
(sufficient for 40 - 8x10in applications), Syringe 2ml,<br />
Fabriano paper 5 sheets 8x10in, Two glass coating rods<br />
4in and 8in, Protective gloves and full detailed instructions<br />
for use. Sensitiser, Glass coating rods and Hypo<br />
are available separately along with traditional contact<br />
frames with hinged backs in 8x10in and 12x16in. Raw<br />
chemistry is available on request - please phone.<br />
Cyanotype is in a single solution, and is an updated<br />
version of the original process. Using Ammonium Ferric<br />
Oxalate to give a good blue that does not wash out, this<br />
solution is twice as sensitive to UV as the traditional<br />
version. Development in water and citric acid can be<br />
used to manipulate contrast. All images are made by the<br />
contact system, where the image depends on a negative<br />
of the appropriate size.<br />
15 670 New Cyanotype Kit 28.98 34.05<br />
75 872 New Cyanotype Sensitiser [included in kit] 11.41 13.40<br />
GUM BICHROMATE<br />
In 1839, Mungo Ponton published a paper on the light<br />
sensitive properties of chromates. These are strong alkaline<br />
compounds that are available today as potassium or<br />
ammonium dichromate (bichromate is the older and<br />
more common term). In 1852, Fox Talbot used animal<br />
gelatine in combination with dichromate. He observed<br />
that the dichromated colloid hardened in proportion to its<br />
exposure to sunlight, and applied the principle to an<br />
early photogravure process. This work formed the basis<br />
for many later photographic and photomechanical<br />
processes. In 1894, A. Rouille-Ladevez redefined the<br />
process, producing prints for an exhibition at the Photo-<br />
Club de Paris. His work inspired photographers whose<br />
pictorial work derived from Impressionism in fine art, and<br />
great use was made of the gum bichromate process as a<br />
method of producing the painterly images so characteristic<br />
of turn-of-the-century art photography.<br />
Materials<br />
Gum arabic; Available as prepared liquid gum arabic<br />
(avoid acid preservatives) or mix dry gum (acacia) at 1<br />
part to 3 parts water. Dissolve (overnight), strain, and<br />
add optional preservative (phenol based such as thymol,<br />
never formalin or formaldehyde)<br />
Pigment; Water colour for transparency, or designers<br />
gouache or casein for more opacity. Powdered pigment<br />
should be ground with a small quantity of liquid gum arabic.<br />
Potassium Dichromate (bichromate) Ammonium<br />
Dichromate (bichromate) is capable of a more saturated<br />
solution, decreasing exposure time, but giving some<br />
problems of exposure control.<br />
Paper; a good quality, sized, art paper is recommended.<br />
The Process<br />
Potassium dichromate: make a 10% saturated solution<br />
(10g to 100ml distilled water) The solution will keep in<br />
the dark. If crystals form during storage, redissolve by<br />
warming the bottle. Mix the gum solution and sensitiser<br />
in equal parts. Use as soon as possible. Add to prepared<br />
pigment.<br />
Coat paper with a soft, broad brush, and allow to dry<br />
away from light and heat. The prepared paper will keep<br />
for several days in the dark, but works best when used<br />
as soon as possible.<br />
Expose the paper to sunlight or a mercury vapour lamp<br />
by contact printing under a negative. Exposure time will<br />
depend on density of negative and type of light source,<br />
but always look for a brown print-out in the shadows and<br />
the start of the mid-tones. The colour of the pigment in<br />
the coating will also affect exposure time: blue and green<br />
requiring less time than red or yellow.<br />
'Develop' the print in a bath of tepid water. Slide the print<br />
into the water (face down). Soak (a few minutes to several<br />
hours, depending on exposure). Unexposed gum will<br />
dissolve, while gum hardened by the action of light and<br />
chromate will remain. Gum coating can then be removed<br />
locally by the application of a stream of water or gentle<br />
brushing. Flatten the wet print against a tilted, waterproof<br />
board to dry. The gum print can be overprinted by<br />
recoating (once dry), re-exposing and developing.<br />
Staining of pigment in the highlights can be minimised by<br />
the application of paper size, and the dichromate stain<br />
can be removed in a 5% potassium alum bath, or by<br />
re-soaking the finished, dried print in warm water.<br />
Gum Bichromate Kit<br />
More correctly ‘dichromate’, but the old name isn’t going<br />
to go away, the Fotospeed Gum Bichromate provides an<br />
‘out of the box’ introduction to this fascinating process,<br />
yielding the most ‘painterly’ effects of any of the alternative<br />
processes.The kit contains: sensitising & clearing<br />
solution: half-tone solution: shadow solution: watercolours<br />
in tubes, Lamp Black, Payners grey & Burnt<br />
Umber. Also included are a pair of surgical gloves, and<br />
10 sheets of HP watercolour paper. Concise instructions<br />
are included.<br />
48 837 Salt Printing Kit 34.04 40.00<br />
40
ALTERNATIVE PROCESSES<br />
FILMS<br />
COATING<br />
Maco Genius Film<br />
If you're going to give a film a name, go for the top. What<br />
the name does not disclose though, is that this is a lith<br />
type sheet film, and a good replacement for Kodalith<br />
Ortho, which is now discontinued. It can be controlled in<br />
contrast by choice of developer, using lith developers<br />
such as the Champion Novolith, Fotospeed or Forte<br />
products to achieve 'lith' contrast with total elimination of<br />
half tones. Otherwise lower contrast can be produced<br />
using print developers, or lower still in negative developers.<br />
Genius is orthochromatic so can be developed by<br />
inspection using a red safelight.<br />
39 309 Macolith 5x4" 100sh 25.06 29.44<br />
20 457 Macolith 8x10" 10sh 10.50 12.34<br />
34 297 Macolith 9.5x12" 5sh 8.50 9.99<br />
96 595 Macolith 12x16" 5sh 13.45 15.80<br />
42 373 Macolith 16x20” 5sh 21.00 24.68<br />
Ilford Ortho Copy Plus Film<br />
Behaviour like FP4 without red-sensitisation. Relatively<br />
high sensitivity for camera use, (40 ISO in tungsten, 80<br />
ISO in daylight) and normal contrast. Available only in<br />
sheet sizes. Useful where response to red is not<br />
required, and development by inspection in red safelighting<br />
is needed. If photographing to reproduce a 'vintage'<br />
look it may be useful, as its response is closer to old blue<br />
sensitive films than modern panchromatic materials.<br />
84 083 Ilford Ortho Film 5x4" 25sh 16.54 19.43<br />
10 319 Ilford Ortho Film 8x10" 25sh 55.92 65.71<br />
12 607 Ilford Ortho Film 10x12" 25sh 82.85 97.35<br />
Digital Transfer Film 165 micron<br />
A Permajet product, clear inkjet film with an improved ink<br />
receiving layer that handles considerably more ink than<br />
other films. This yields high density large format negatives<br />
that can be used to contact print onto normal printing<br />
papers or be used in alternative processes. It is a<br />
fast drying water resistant film with high clarity.<br />
42 708 A4 10 14.43 16.95<br />
41 347 A3 10 28.89 33.95<br />
Coating Rods<br />
The preferable alternative when using some sensitisers,<br />
particularly platinum and palladium, where a substantial<br />
amount of very expensive sensitiser can be left unrecoverable<br />
in the brush. A syringe is used to lay a line of sensitiser<br />
onto the paper, and the rod is then touched down<br />
onto the paper at this point. It can then be drawn down<br />
the paper, pulling with it the reservoir of liquid. The<br />
amount of sensitiser should be calculated to be absorbed<br />
after about 5 passes, and the result will be a carefully<br />
metered application of sensitiser over the selected area.<br />
However, the only choice over coating width is the width<br />
of the rod, and for this reason several are offered..All are<br />
made from thick gauge glass tubing, turned at the end to<br />
provide handles.<br />
13 697 11” Coating Rod 9.19 10.80<br />
13 660 8” Coating Rod 7.94 9.33<br />
13 658 4” Coating Rod 7.16 8.41<br />
Jiaban Brushes<br />
These Chinese made goats hair brushes are ideal for<br />
use with most alternative processes because a) they<br />
contain no metal parts and b) are very inexpensive.<br />
Especially suitable for applying liquid emulsions.<br />
However in some cases, particularly platinum/palladium<br />
processes, the use of a coating rod may be preferable,<br />
as a brush retains a significant amount of the significantly<br />
expensive sensitiser<br />
34 575 Jiaban Brush 2” 2.63 3.09<br />
30 516 Jiaban Brush 2.5” 3.68 4.32<br />
45 233 Jiaban Brush 3” 4.20 4.94<br />
18 790 Jiaban Brush 4.5” 5.25 6.17<br />
CONTACT FRAMES<br />
WEIGHING<br />
BOOKS<br />
Lotus Contact Frames<br />
41<br />
Not cheap, in fact outrageous, but then so is a Rolls<br />
Royce. The Lotus frames are exceptionally well made,<br />
on a par with the best wooden camera making, which<br />
indeed is the other side of the Lotus business. We do not<br />
keep these in stock, they are shipped out by the UK<br />
importer, so if you are making it part of a larger order, the<br />
frame will arrive packed separately.<br />
The 20x24” model is made to special order, and takes<br />
about 3 weeks.<br />
--- Lotus 10x12” Contact Frame 275.00 323.13<br />
--- Lotus 12x16” Contact Frame 325.00 381.88<br />
--- Lotus 20x24” Contact Frame 495.00 581.63<br />
Electronic Balances<br />
For many years we supplied a traditional pan balance<br />
with weights, but the manufacturer called it a day in the<br />
end...less aesthetically pleasing, but easier to use and<br />
more accurate, a choice of two electronic balances.<br />
The Salter 3010 weighs from 1g to 2kg, and this is accurate<br />
across the platen - some other relatively cheap<br />
balances can vary quite widely depending on where the<br />
load is placed.<br />
A membrane covers the switches, and controls are<br />
ON/ZERO, OFF, and a switch between KG/LB<br />
The Salter1250 is designated an ‘Electronic Travel Diet<br />
Scales’, and provides ultra fine 0.1g increments as<br />
required by diabetics - this makes it equally useful as a<br />
highly accurate chemical scales. Compact enough to<br />
travel with, only 120 x 120 x 170mm, and the weighing<br />
tray inverts as a cover for the platen. Uses a CR2032<br />
lithium coin battery<br />
21 871 Salter 3010 Electronic Balance 25.00 29.38<br />
45 575 Salter 1250 Electronic Balance 30.00 35.25<br />
Making Digital Negatives<br />
PAPER for ALT. PROCESSES<br />
'Making Digital Negatives' was first self-published by Dan<br />
Burkholder in 1995, and was a very useful little 70 page<br />
booklet aimed at introducing the photographer with an<br />
interest in fine art into using digital techniques. The new<br />
second edition weighs in at a mighty 350 pages, covering<br />
a greatly extended range of topics. As we are importing<br />
the book from Dan himself, we are able to offer the<br />
book at the same price as the original edition, only £30.<br />
This also includes a CD containing calibration tools, test<br />
images, image layout templates, curves and colour table<br />
settings, which you use as you follow the steps in the<br />
book and run your own tests.<br />
15 412 Making Digital Negatives 30.00<br />
We do not profess to be paper merchants, but keep a<br />
few specialised papers (at present down to one) suitable<br />
for alternative processes. Arches Platine is natural white<br />
and is particularly suited to iron-based processes such<br />
as platinum.<br />
3 656 Arches Platine, 300 g 10sh 16.00 18.80
RAW CHEMICALS<br />
The listing on this page contains most of the raw<br />
chemicals used in commonly used formulae.<br />
Some chemicals not listed are possibly stocked<br />
or can be ordered. Some toxic chemicals, (such<br />
as mercury salts) we are unable to supply, or<br />
any chemical interpreted as being used for illegal<br />
activity (such as drug refining). We are not able to ship<br />
any raw chemicals outside the UK.<br />
ITEM QTY CODE NET +VAT<br />
Acacia (gum arabic) 100g 16 117 4.81 5.65<br />
Alum - see Potassium aluminium sulphate<br />
Amidol (diaminophenol dihydrochloride) 25g 85 249 14.50 17.04<br />
p-Aminophenol 25g 23 108 2.75 3.23<br />
Ammonium alum 100g 56 123 2.80 3.29<br />
Ammonium alum 500g 16 131 12.09 14.21<br />
Ammonium bromide 100g 65 663 3.39 3.98<br />
Ammonium carbonate 100g 2 605 4.41 5.18<br />
Ammonium carbonate 500g 54 871 19.09 22.43<br />
Ammonium chloride 100g 20 541 1.33 1.56<br />
Ammonium chloride 500g 16 300 5.76 6.77<br />
Ammonium citrate 100g 67 108 7.85 9.22<br />
Ammonium dichromate 25g 38 215 2.00 2.35<br />
Ammonium dichromate 100g 76 299 6.47 7.60<br />
Ammonium dichromate 500g 37 301 28.27 33.22<br />
Ammonium ferric citrate (green) 25g 71 888 2.23 2.62<br />
Ammonium ferric citrate (green) 100g 86 140 7.63 8.96<br />
Ammonium ferric citrate (green) 500g 86 126 32.74 38.47<br />
Ammonium oxalate monohydrate 100g 47 062 8.38 9.85<br />
Ammonium persulphate 100g 56 356 2.<strong>36</strong> 2.77<br />
Ammonium persulphate 500g 43 916 10.21 12.00<br />
Ammonium iron 111 oxalate trihydrate 25g 89 769 5.00 5.88<br />
Ammonium thiocyanate 25g 20 747 2.07 2.43<br />
Ammonium thiocyanate 100g 8 041 6.54 7.68<br />
Ammonium thiosulphate. 500g 27 655 5.05 5.93<br />
L-Ascorbic acid 25g 56 926 3.39 3.98<br />
Benzotriazole 25g 27 215 5.49 6.45<br />
Boric acid 100g 2 023 1.51 1.77<br />
Boric acid 500g 21 785 6.56 7.71<br />
Calgon 500g 53 578 5.07 5.96<br />
Catechol 25g 94 793 2.50 2.94<br />
CD3 (Colour developing agent no. 3) 25g 5 179 3.13 3.68<br />
CD4 (CIolour Developing Agent no. 4) 25g 46 296 4.86 5.71<br />
Chrome alum 100g 13 453 3.34 3.92<br />
Chrome alum 500g 82 490 11.41 13.41<br />
Citrazinic acid 10g 11 980 3.53 4.15<br />
Citric acid 100g 20 539 1.55 1.82<br />
Citric acid 500g 97 971 6.25 7.34<br />
Cupric bromide 50g 31 502 9.30 10.93<br />
Cupric chloride 100g 46 660 4.95 5.82<br />
Cupric sulphate 100g 33 175 4.46 5.24<br />
Cupric sulphate 500g 46 697 15.50 18.21<br />
EDTA acid 100g 76 039 4.37 5.13<br />
EDTA (tetra sodium) 100g 4 851 5.44 6.39<br />
EDTA (NaFe) 100g 7 251 1.95 2.29<br />
EDTA (di-potassium) 100g 6 503 11.76 13.82<br />
EDTA (di-sodium) 100g 55 109 8.54 10.03<br />
EDTA (di-sodium) 500g 87 805 <strong>36</strong>.42 42.79<br />
Ferric ammonium citrate - see Ammonium ferric citrate<br />
Ferric ammonium sulphate 100g 87 930 4.49 5.28<br />
Ferric chloride 100g 76 137 3.00 3.53<br />
Ferric nitrate nonahydrate 100g 7 578 7.85 9.22<br />
Ferrous sulphate 100g 54 306 5.59 6.57<br />
Formamidinesulphinic acid 100g 3 519 15.00 17.63<br />
Gallic acid 100g 87 592 9.30 10.93<br />
Gelatin 100g 58 671 2.50 2.94<br />
Gelatin 500g 11 187 11.25 13.25<br />
Hydroquinone 25g 74 677 1.34 1.57<br />
Hydroquinone 100g 34 480 3.47 4.08<br />
Hydroquinone 500g 10 514 14.79 17.38<br />
Iodine 25g 14 378 4.49 5.28<br />
Kodalk - see Sodium metaborate<br />
Metol 25g 94 389 2.49 2.93<br />
Metol 100g 98 593 8.25 9.69<br />
ITEM QTY CODE NET +VAT<br />
Oxalic acid 100g 84 434 6.31 7.41<br />
Phenidone 25g 24 185 3.70 4.35<br />
Phenidone 100g 23 219 12.35 14.51<br />
Potassium aluminium sulphate 500g 1 414 4.25 4.99<br />
Potassium bromide 100g 76 526 1.89 2.22<br />
Potassium bromide 500g 65 6<strong>36</strong> 8.04 9.45<br />
Potassium carbonate 500g 4 603 3.21 3.77<br />
Potassium citrate 100g 76 027 4.14 4.86<br />
Potassium citrate 500g 2 779 17.24 20.26<br />
Potassium dichromate 100g 46 854 2.48 2.91<br />
Potassium dichromate 500g 56 783 10.29 12.09<br />
Potassium ferricyanide 100g 48 183 2.72 3.20<br />
Potassium ferricyanide 400g 23 480 9.68 11.37<br />
Potassium ferrocyanide 100g 59 656 7.40 8.70<br />
Potassium hydroxide 500g 22 993 10.50 12.34<br />
Potassium iodide 25g 57 401 2.18 2.56<br />
Potassium iodide 100g 75 <strong>36</strong>1 7.37 8.66<br />
Potassium metabisulphite 500g 21 080 3.30 3.88<br />
Potassium nitrate 25g <strong>36</strong> 023 2.00 2.35<br />
Potassium oxalate 100g 29 056 8.52 10.01<br />
Potassium permanganate 100g 2 632 2.84 3.34<br />
Potassium thiocyanate 100g 29 082 4.84 5.69<br />
Pyrocatechol - see Catechol 25g 94 793 2.50 2.94<br />
Pyrogallic acid - see Gallic acid<br />
Pyrogallol 50g 79 795 17.55 20.62<br />
Silver nitrate 25g 27 681 14.04 16.50<br />
Silver nitrate 100g 60 169 44.85 52.70<br />
Sodium bisulphite - see Sodium metabisulphite<br />
Sodium bromide 25g 23 000 1.89 2.22<br />
Sodium bromide 100g <strong>36</strong> 295 5.86 6.89<br />
Sodium carbonate(anhydrous) 350g 51 167 2.91 3.42<br />
Sodium chloride 100g 20 405 2.61 3.07<br />
Sodium citrate 100g 12 575 4.14 4.86<br />
Sodium hydroxide 100g 37 326 1.34 1.57<br />
Sodium hydroxide 500g 65 321 5.04 5.92<br />
Sodium iso-ascorbate 25g 30 056 3.<strong>36</strong> 3.95<br />
Sodium metabisulphite 500g 5 641 3.32 3.90<br />
Sodium metaborate (Kodalk) 100g 97 017 1.95 2.29<br />
Sodium metaborate 500g 55 817 8.34 9.80<br />
di-basic Sodium phosphate 100g 33 332 5.68 6.67<br />
Sodium potassium tartrate 100g 3 521 8.43 9.91<br />
Sodium sulphate 500g 77 234 5.70 6.70<br />
Sodium sulphite (anhydrous) 500g 87 869 2.64 3.10<br />
Sodium tetraborate (Borax) 500g 82 702 3.40 4.00<br />
Sodium thiocyanate 100g 37 670 3.26 3.83<br />
Sodium thiocyanate 500g 10 137 13.58 15.96<br />
Sodium thiosulphate (anhydrous) 500g 32 299 3.17 3.72<br />
Succinic acid 100g 24 893 5.20 6.11<br />
Sulphamic acid 100g 26 849 3.05 3.58<br />
Tartaric acid 100g 91 757 4.01 4.71<br />
Thiourea (thiocarbamide) 100g 69 598 2.45 2.88<br />
Thiourea 500g 99 223 10.53 12.37<br />
TWEEN 20 25ml 22 190 1.50 1.76<br />
LIQUID CHEMICALS<br />
AMMONIA 10% 500ml 26 120 4.17 4.90<br />
HYDROCHLORIC ACID 10%. 500ml 92 535 4.17 4.90<br />
SULPHURIC ACID 10% 500ml 90 416 4.17 4.90<br />
ACETIC ACID 5 litres available, collection only, see Stopbaths<br />
WE AIM TO KEEP THE ABOVE PACKINGS IN STOCK, BUT IF YOU NEED SEVERAL ITEMS TO<br />
PREPARE A FORMULA, PARTICULARLY THE MORE OBSCURE ONES, IT MAY BE ADVISABLE<br />
TO RING TO CHECK STOCK. WE ONLY SELL CHEMICALS FOR USE IN PHOTOGRAPHIC APPLICA-<br />
TIONS. TO PURCHASE RAW CHEMICALS OVER THE COUNTER YOU MAY BE ASKED TO COMPLETE A<br />
WRITTEN ORDER, WITH SIGNATURE AND ADDRESS.<br />
42