23.12.2012 Views

36 EMULSION WORK - Silverprint

36 EMULSION WORK - Silverprint

36 EMULSION WORK - Silverprint

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

<strong>EMULSION</strong> <strong>WORK</strong><br />

Emulsions - Introduction<br />

Commercial photographic printing papers, although still<br />

available in quite a variety of types and finishes, impose<br />

several limitations. The paper type is pre-ordained by the<br />

manufacturer and must be a highly machined product<br />

that will pass through the elaborate manufacturing<br />

process. Probably the greatest constraint is that the<br />

printer is limited to working upon a two dimensional<br />

plane.<br />

Self-coated emulsion offers the simplest way to unshackle<br />

oneself from the manufacturer, as an image can be<br />

placed on a wide variety of surfaces, many unusable with<br />

other alternative photographic processes.<br />

Now that high quality emulsions have become available<br />

in a packaged form, serious experimentation is taking<br />

place for what appears to be the first time in the history<br />

of the medium. Shape, dimension, surface quality and<br />

type of base material are all much more in the hands of<br />

the print-maker.<br />

Yet though a great range of innovative possibilities have<br />

opened up, at the same time emulsion can be used as a<br />

fine printing tool, enabling individually crafted photographic<br />

papers to be produced - which are otherwise<br />

unavailable from any manufacturer.<br />

However, simply mimicking manufactured materials need<br />

not be the goal - one could use them in the first place.<br />

Furthermore the most successful works with emulsion<br />

are often technically imperfect. A certain expressive<br />

spontaneity and randomness is one of the reasons for<br />

working with the medium. This involves stepping away<br />

from the machine consistency - and hence somewhat<br />

clinical character - of regular photographic products.<br />

A few practical points<br />

Storage<br />

Emulsions do not keep well when stored at relatively<br />

high temperatures, and should always be cold stored<br />

(down to 4° C. preferably) prior to use. Don’t worry about<br />

this if you are going to use it in a day or two, but for any<br />

length of time, return it to the fridge. Especially, do not<br />

buy emulsion from any outlet that is obviously not cold<br />

storing it. Ours is always fresh, and is cold stored from<br />

manufacture (in the UK) until it goes over the counter.<br />

Any emulsion that has been left un-fridged for say, a<br />

year probably is not worth bothering with. Do not waste<br />

your time, get some fresh product.<br />

Expectations<br />

It is possible to get a ‘result’ with emulsion quite easily,<br />

to get consistency and smooth coating very much more<br />

difficult - even photographic coating companies can have<br />

technical difficulties, even failures of whole batches, and<br />

they are in the manufacturing business! Regard it as<br />

another craft process, requiring the development of<br />

experience and techniques to be able to work<br />

confidently with it.<br />

Fog<br />

This is the constant enemy, fogging will build up by<br />

exposure to safelights during coating, drying, and after<br />

exposure during development. This is a main reason for<br />

always using fresh emulsion, it gives a head start in<br />

minimising the fog level.<br />

SE1 Emulsion<br />

Further Reading<br />

The great range of artistic possibilities and variety of<br />

techniques offered by liquid emulsion is explored further<br />

in Silver Gelatin: A User’s Guide to Liquid Photographic<br />

Emulsion, published by Aurum Press. This was<br />

written in-house here in 1995, and has remained in print<br />

ever since, being the only book dealing exclusively with<br />

emulsion techniques.<br />

<strong>36</strong><br />

SE1 Emulsion is made for us by one of the main photographic<br />

manufacturers in this country, this is a normal<br />

contrast bromide emulsion which is versatile and easy to<br />

use. Contrast: reasonably hard grade 2. The high silver<br />

content allows a certain degree of dilution with water in<br />

many cases. If applying to a transparent medium use full<br />

strength, but on opaque surfaces such as paper do tests<br />

using 1 + 1 and 1 + 2 dilutions with water. SE1’s substantial<br />

concentration of high bloom gelatin yields good<br />

adhesion to many surfaces, often without subbing<br />

beforehand. Processing is as for normal paper- the emulsion<br />

is quite robust, and does not usually need hardening,<br />

or the use of slow fixing agents. The image colour is<br />

neutral to slightly warm-black, and it reacts well to toners<br />

of all types including selenium, even lith. development. A<br />

separate subbing solution is available for optional use<br />

when coating smooth surfaces such as glass. Please<br />

note we always cold store emulsion- avoid buying it from<br />

any outlet that does not fridge it.<br />

Download the PDF of the emulsion instructions from our<br />

website - it contains the most essential details to start<br />

working with emulsions.<br />

67 607 240ml SE1 15.32 18.00<br />

50 890 1 litre SE1 45.00 52.88<br />

61 630 5 litre SE1 160.00 188.00<br />

15 560 Subbing / Hardening Solution, powders for 1l. 2.00 2.35<br />

MACO Emulsions<br />

The Hamburg-based photo. distributor MACO launched a<br />

range of emulsions several years ago, which are an<br />

alternative to the ‘SE’ variety.<br />

Available as a single graded hard-contrast emulsion, or a<br />

variable contrast emulsion that can be used in conjunction<br />

with filters, as well as several accessory products<br />

including hardener and gelatin substrate.<br />

26 268 MACO Normal/Hard Emulsion 500ml 25.49 29.95<br />

25 302 MACO VC Emulsion 500ml 25.49 29.95<br />

42 334 Hardening Additive 6.40 7.52<br />

51 752 Photo Gelatin 6.99 8.21<br />

Silver Gelatin is split into two clearly defined sections:<br />

the first section features the work of photographers and<br />

artists including David Scheinmann, Chris Nash, Lana<br />

Wong, Melanie Manchot, Jennifer Bates, Gary Kirkham<br />

and Jane Quinn, including many colour illustrations and<br />

several interviews. The second section is a clear and<br />

concise technical guide, taking the reader comprehensively<br />

through all the necessary information needed to<br />

produce exciting images on hand-made paper, plaster,<br />

fabric, glass, glazed ceramics, rubber, slate, metal, painted<br />

surfaces, wood, plastics, stone, and canvas.<br />

Technical sub-sections detail, step-by-step, the ins and<br />

outs of Base Selection; Emulsion Coating; Printing and<br />

Processing; Finishing and Storage; Troubleshooting;<br />

Camera Plates; and application of further techniques<br />

including toning. Formularies of print developers, stopbaths,<br />

bleaches, toners and the emulsions themselves<br />

complete this exhaustive publication. Accompanying the<br />

text are many full-colour examples.


ALTERNATIVE PROCESSES<br />

INTRODUCTION<br />

SALTED PAPER<br />

Alternative photographic processes are myriad, although<br />

those commonly practised are the ones detailed on these<br />

pages. Most originate from the earliest days of photography,<br />

and are evolutionary steps towards the sophisticated<br />

films and papers used today. These notes were originally<br />

supplied by Hope Kingsley, and contain enough<br />

information to start experimenting with the processes.<br />

The series of kits manufactured by Fotospeed are a<br />

possible way of easing oneself into the processes,<br />

perhaps before buying the raw chemicals oneself and<br />

making prints from the absolute basics. A particularly<br />

good workshop book is ‘Spirits of Salts’, details opposite.<br />

William Henry Fox Talbot’s original salted silver nitrate<br />

paper evolved between 1834 and 1839. Talbot used<br />

smooth writing paper washed in a weak solution of common<br />

salt, dried, then coated with a solution of silver<br />

nitrate, resulting in light-sensitive silver chloride. Once<br />

dry, the paper could be printed out in strong sunlight. The<br />

resulting image of metallic silver was fixed in a strong<br />

solution of salt.<br />

Talbot refined the process, and Sir John Herschel suggested<br />

sodium thiosulphate (hypo) as a fixing agent.<br />

Salted paper was the basis for Talbot’s Calotype process,<br />

which used silver nitrate and gallic acid to develop up a<br />

latent image in the exposed paper, and is the foundation<br />

of modern silver-based photography.<br />

The Process<br />

Paper: good quality art paper.<br />

Note: rinse utensils, etc. with distilled water before use.<br />

Salting solution<br />

1.8% solution Sodium Chloride<br />

(1.8g to 100 ml purified water)<br />

Salt the paper by soaking in the salting solution for about<br />

2 minutes. Be sure to disperse any air bubbles that may<br />

form on the surface. Blot with photographic blotting paper,<br />

and allow to dry.<br />

Sensitising solution<br />

3g silver nitrate to 20ml. distilled water<br />

20% solution Citric Acid (saturated solution, 2g to 10ml<br />

distilled water)<br />

Mix 3 ml Silver Nitrate to 0.3 ml Citric Acid - just before<br />

coating.<br />

Sensitise the paper in subdued tungsten light<br />

Dry paper in the dark, then re-humidify over bath of<br />

washing soda or plain water.<br />

Printing<br />

Contact print by inspection in sunlight or under an ultraviolet<br />

lamp, until the image is 1/2 stop over-exposed.<br />

Wash the print in running water until the milky silver compound<br />

has completely dispersed (2-20 minutes, depending<br />

on paper weight.<br />

Fixing<br />

Fix the print in a plain sodium thiosulphate fixer for 5-30<br />

minutes (depending on the paper, as above).<br />

Wash in running water for 15 to 30 minutes, depending<br />

on the paper weight.<br />

Salt Printing Kit<br />

Fotospeed produce a Salt Printing Kit. If you have experience<br />

of this the best route is buying the raw chemicals,<br />

but if you need an introduction this is a good way of getting<br />

going.<br />

49 006 Salt Printing Kit 38.30 45.00<br />

Recommended Reading<br />

KALLITYPE PROCESS<br />

37<br />

“Spirits of Salts’ is a packed 140 page book, dealing<br />

practically and comprehensively with all the alternativephoto.<br />

processes, from silver through Cyanotype to<br />

Platinum, even featuring chapters on getting started with<br />

Photogravure. Written by Randall Webb and put<br />

together here at <strong>Silverprint</strong>, this is aimed to be<br />

an essential text for anyone venturing into alternative<br />

processes for the first time.<br />

Chapters include; Salt Printing, Printing-Out-<br />

Paper, Kallitype, Platinum & Palladium,<br />

Cyanotype, Gum Printing, Bromoil, Oil Printing.<br />

Separate sections cover general information,<br />

including exposure, making large format negatives,<br />

selection of paper etc. A resource section<br />

lists virtually all other reference books, and<br />

related websites and e-mail bulletin boards.<br />

Unique in providing a simple darkroom manual,<br />

giving a comprehensive survey of the history,<br />

theory and practice of all the ways of putting<br />

photographic images on paper, as well as on other surfaces<br />

such as fabric, ceramics, wood, metal and glass. It<br />

contains reference only to those processes that are<br />

capable of being worked by the average competent photographer<br />

or printmaker. It also avoids those processes<br />

that are either unsafe,<br />

impractical or for which materials are no longer available<br />

and which are of academic interest only.<br />

This is an iron-silver process. In 1842 Sir John Herschel<br />

invented the chryso-type process, using a strong solution<br />

of ferric ammonium citrate as a light-sensitive coating on<br />

paper. Once exposed, the paper was developed up with<br />

silver nitrate (Herschel first used gold chloride), washed,<br />

and fixed in hypo (another of Herschel's many<br />

innovations).<br />

The latterly termed Argerotype process was not much<br />

used, but in 1889, W. J. Nicol based his Kallitype<br />

process on Herschel’s work. Known as the ‘poor mans<br />

platinum’, the Kallitype had many complex and sometimes<br />

highly toxic variations. In its most basic (and least<br />

toxic) form, a light sensitive coating of ferric ammonium<br />

citrate and silver nitrate produces a sepia image of great<br />

richness.<br />

The Process<br />

Sensitiser<br />

Note: Rinse all utensils in distilled water before use.<br />

Make 3 separate solutions;<br />

6g Ammonium ferric citrate in 22 ml distilled water<br />

1g Tartaric acid in 22 ml distilled water<br />

2.50g Silver nitrate in 22 ml distilled water<br />

The tartaric acid should be freshly mixed just before<br />

combining the solutions to sensitise. The other solutions<br />

will keep in brown bottles, away from light. The<br />

ammonium ferric citrate solution may need to be filtered<br />

before use.<br />

Mix the first two solutions. Add the silver nitrate slowly, a<br />

few drops at a time, stirring well to be sure that there is<br />

no milky precipitate.<br />

Paper<br />

Use a good quality art paper.<br />

Sensitise the paper by coating (see ‘Cyanotype’<br />

for suggestions) in subdued tungsten light.<br />

Dry in the dark.<br />

Printing<br />

Expose in sunlight or by ultra-violet lamp in contact<br />

under a negative until the image prints out. Do not overprint:<br />

the image will intensify during fixing. Wash in running<br />

water until all milky silver nitrate residue disappears.<br />

Fixing<br />

12g Sodium thiosulphate in 1 litre water<br />

Fix until image reaches maximum density: beware of<br />

over-fixing, which will erode the image. Wash thoroughly<br />

in running water (up to 30 minutes if thick paper is used).<br />

Note: Iron-silver prints may be toned with gold toner as<br />

per (Talbot’s) salted paper.


ALTERNATIVE PROCESSES<br />

ARGYROTYPE<br />

Some Alternatives in the<br />

Chemistry<br />

If Silver(I) Oxide is difficult to<br />

obtain, 8.4 g Silver Carbonate<br />

may be used instead; but it<br />

should be dissolved at room<br />

temperature in a tall vessel -<br />

a 250 or 500 cc measuring<br />

cylinder to contain the spray;<br />

adding the Silver Carbonate<br />

in small portions, and allowing<br />

the effervescence to die down<br />

each time.<br />

Silver nitrate, more commonly<br />

available and cheaper may<br />

also be used. Precipitate 7 g<br />

Silver(I) Oxide from a solution<br />

of 10.3 g Silver Nitrate by<br />

adding a solution of 2.5 g<br />

Sodium Hydroxide; after filtration<br />

and washing, the moist<br />

precipitate may be dissolved<br />

in the Sulphamic Acid.<br />

The inherent problem of the iron-based silver processes<br />

lies in the danger of leaving residual ferric iron in the<br />

print, to its eventual undoing as the image is attacked.<br />

The Argyrotype process, developed by Mike Ware, has<br />

been designed to avert this problem, and ingeniously<br />

uses a little known silver salt, silver sulphamate,<br />

manufactured ‘in-situ’. The resulting acidic sensitiser can<br />

be washed out of the paper cleanly. Brief working details<br />

are included here, and we can supply the Fotospeed kit,<br />

as well as the sensitiser on its own.<br />

For more information go to Mike Ware’s website;<br />

www.mikeware.demon.uk<br />

Argyrotype Sensitiser<br />

Chemicals needed (GPR grade ca 98%)<br />

Sulphamic acid 7.6g. Silver (1) Oxide 7.6 g. Ammonium<br />

Ferric Citrate (green) 23g. Tween 20 0.8ml (surfactant,<br />

assists spreading, poly-oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate)<br />

Distilled water to make 100 ml.<br />

Procedure for making up<br />

Use subdued tungsten light.<br />

Dissolve the sulphamic acid in about 700ml of distilled<br />

water at room temperature.<br />

Add the powdered silver(1) oxide in small portions with<br />

vigorous stirring so that it dissolves over a period of<br />

about 20 minutes or so. (Ignore any grey crystals that<br />

separate out at this stage.)<br />

Add the ammonium ferric citrate in portions with continuous<br />

stirring until it is dissolved. The solution will appear<br />

murky green at this stage.<br />

Add the Tween 20, mixing well, and make it up to 100ml.<br />

with distilled water. Filter the solution, and store it in a<br />

brown bottle, kept in the dark at room temperature.<br />

Notes: On storage, the sensitiser may slowly deposit<br />

a small amount of black solid. This does not<br />

significantly impair its strength, but if troublesome it<br />

should be filtered off. To make a more contrasty sensitiser,<br />

an additional 10g of sulphamic acid may be added<br />

per litre of solution.<br />

Coating and Exposure<br />

Coating is most easily done using a glass rod as spreader<br />

as under ‘Coating Methods’. Dry thoroughly, as wet<br />

sensitiser will ruin a negative. Pre-humidifying the paper<br />

will give a cooler purple/brown. Not all papers are suitable,<br />

do some tests. Printing is by contact, using Ultra-<br />

Violet or sunlight. Exposure time is likely to be 1 or 2<br />

minutes in sunlight, and can be gauged to some extent<br />

by the degree of printing-out visible from the front of the<br />

contact frame, although a ‘split’ frame is a great help.<br />

Argyrotype Processing<br />

Immerse in running water (or 3 or 4 changes<br />

of static water) until the yellow background has disappeared,<br />

which will take about 5 mins.<br />

Immerse in a 2% sodium thiosulphate fixing bath for<br />

about 3 mins. The image will cool.<br />

Wash in running water (or static changes) for about 20<br />

mins.<br />

Drain and air dry. The image tones “dry-down’’ somewhat.<br />

Notes: The dilute fixing bath will need replacement frequently.<br />

This should be carried out when the colour shift<br />

from orange to brown becomes sluggish.<br />

Over-exposed prints may be “reduced” by prolonging the<br />

fixing time Very delicate gradation in the high values<br />

may be obtained by leaving the exposed print in a humid<br />

atmosphere (100% R.H.) for about 10 minutes before<br />

wet processing.<br />

The Argyrotype Kit<br />

Contains: Sensitiser 50ml (sufficient for 40 - 8x10in<br />

applications), Syringe 2ml, Fabriano paper 5 sheets<br />

8x10in, Kodak direct duplicating film 5 sheets 5x4in,<br />

Two glass coating rods 4in and 8in, Hypo crystals,<br />

Protective gloves and full detailed instructions for use.<br />

Sensitiser, Glass coating rods and Hypo are available<br />

separately along with traditional contact frames with<br />

hinged backs in 8x10in and 12x16in.<br />

9 430 Argyrotype Kit 35.19 41.35<br />

16 532 Argyrotype Sensitiser [included in kit] 19.33 22.72<br />

PRINTING-OUT PAPER<br />

A traditional POP (printing out paper) produces a strong<br />

image purely by the action of light. Very slow, UV or<br />

sunlight must be used, which requires contact printing to<br />

a same size negative. The colour on first exposure is<br />

aubergine purple, which turns to amber when fixed in<br />

sodium thiosulphate. If the original colour and tonal<br />

range is required, the print can be gold toned before<br />

fixing, (see examples in the news pages at the back).<br />

38<br />

The Chicago Albumen Works / Kentmere Photographic<br />

Limited CENTENNIAL Printing-Out Paper (P.O.P.) is a<br />

silver chloride, gelatine emulsion coated onto double<br />

weight fibre-base paper stock. The emulsion surface is<br />

glossy, with a very fine lustre. The emulsion contains a<br />

slight excess of silver nitrate, and thus will print-out with<br />

great intensity. No developer is required; the image is<br />

formed directly by the action of the light during exposure.<br />

The color of the printed-out image may be variously<br />

described as blood-red, rust-red, brick-red or plum-red.<br />

The color of the processed image will range from<br />

orange-brown for prints which are merely fixed, through a<br />

rich chocolate brown for prints which receive a moderate<br />

toning, to purple-brown for prints receiving maximum<br />

toning.<br />

The paper can be handled in dim incandescent illumination<br />

for short periods of time. It is sensitive to blue and<br />

ultraviolet light only, and its printing speed is extremely<br />

slow. Due to the reactivity of the silver nitrate and the<br />

absence of super-coatings this paper fingerprints easily.<br />

Handle with clean and absolutely dry fingers, by the<br />

edges only.<br />

Storage<br />

The shelf life of this paper will be determined by the temperature<br />

and humidity of its storage conditions. It is<br />

imperative that unprocessed paper, exposed and<br />

unexposed, be stored in its original plastic envelope at a<br />

temperature of 21°C (70° F) or lower, and at a relative<br />

humidity of 50% or lower. Shelf life under these<br />

conditions should be at least one year. Some yellowing<br />

of the emulsion is normal, and a large percentage of any<br />

visible yellowing will be removed during processing. For<br />

longer storage, it is highly recommended to seal the<br />

plastic envelope and refrigerate or freeze the paper.<br />

Exposure<br />

The printing speed of this paper requires exposures be<br />

made by contact under illumination by a strong ultraviolet<br />

light source, such as direct sunlight, open sky, mercury<br />

vapor lamp, or black light printer. Exposure times with<br />

such sources will be measured in minutes. Increased<br />

contrast, of more than one printing grade, may be<br />

achieved by exposing for extremely long durations (24<br />

hours or more) under fluorescent illumination. A splitback<br />

printing frame is customarily used, as the degree of<br />

print-out may be inspected without losing registration<br />

between the negative and the printing paper. (Be sure to<br />

inspect in dim light so as not to fog the image.) Print until<br />

the image is somewhat darker than desired in the finished<br />

print, for processing lightens the printed-out image.<br />

Printing times using daylight will be varied, with the exact<br />

time depending on the density of the negative being<br />

printed and the quality of the light, ie the sky conditions,<br />

the time of day, and the time of year.<br />

While the colour of the printed-out image will be a rich<br />

red-brown color, its exact shade will vary depending on<br />

the temperature during printing, the humidity, the nature<br />

of the light source, the characteristics of the negative,<br />

and the particular emulsion number in use. However, differences<br />

in the print-out color have little bearing on the<br />

color of the finished print, for toning and fixing are what<br />

principally determine the final hue.<br />

For full instructions and more background material download<br />

a copy of Chicago Albumen Company leaflet from<br />

this address;<br />

Web address: /www.albumenworks.com/directions.html<br />

Code Net +VAT<br />

8x10 10 sh 43 896 8.60 10.11<br />

9.5x12 10sh 43 903 12.30 14.45<br />

12x16 10sh 43 928 20.50 24.09<br />

1 metre x 10 metres 44 026 164.00 192.70


ALTERNATIVE PROCESSES<br />

BROMOIL<br />

The Bromoil Process<br />

In 1907, working from the research of Howard Farmer<br />

and E.J. Wall, C. Welbourne Piper publicised the working<br />

details of a process that produced an inked image from a<br />

silver bromide paper print. A non-supercoated paper<br />

print is treated in a dichromated bleach solution, converting<br />

the silver image back into silver bromide. The bleaching<br />

bath also hardens or tans the gelatine in proportion<br />

to the amount of silver present. The print is washed in<br />

water, swelling the gelatine into a relief matrix that will<br />

accept greasy ink in the shadow and mid-tone areas, but<br />

repel it in the highlights (where the water content is highest).<br />

Once the matrix has been drained and blotted, the<br />

original photographic image can be inked up with a large<br />

blunt-cut brush, or small rubber brayer. Bromoil transfer<br />

is a variant of the above wherein the inked matrix is<br />

printed onto a second sheet of paper. A mangle press or<br />

the back of a spoon can be used for the transfer, which<br />

is suitable for colour work as a series of selective matrices<br />

can be printed in register to produce a coloured<br />

image.<br />

Materials<br />

Paper- Kentmere Art Document bromide enlarging<br />

paper, contrast grades 2 or 3 Print the bromide print for<br />

both highlight and shadow detail, printing somewhat<br />

darker and flatter than usual. Develop, wash (do not use<br />

stop bath) and fix using the solutions below, and wash<br />

thoroughly.<br />

Developer - use a developer having a minimal hardening<br />

effect on the gelatine of the paper: Amidol and<br />

Sodium Sulphite, or: Kodak Dektol diluted 1 part developer<br />

to 10 parts water.<br />

Fixer - without hardeners. A basic fix normally contains<br />

acidifiers but no hardeners. If in doubt, try Tetenal<br />

Variofix, the new powder packing ‘Silverfix’, or a 100<br />

grams per litre solution of plain hypo (sodium thiosulphate)<br />

with 5 grams / litre of added sodium bisulphite or<br />

sodium metabisulphite. These fixers can also be used to<br />

fix the bleached print<br />

Bromoil Bleaching Bath<br />

Copper sulphate15 g<br />

Potassium bromide 15 g<br />

Potassium dichromate 1 g<br />

Mix in 375ml. distilled water, then top up with water to<br />

make 500ml. stock solution. Store in a dark brown bottle,<br />

away from heat and light.<br />

Dilute for use: 1 part stock to 3 parts water. Bleach in the<br />

bleaching bath until the image is a faint beige colour, and<br />

leave in the bath for half again as long. Wash thoroughly<br />

and fix as usual. A grey-ish image should be barely<br />

visible.<br />

Dry the print, and store away from light.<br />

Inking<br />

Adana letterpress inks or Charbonnel litho. inks. Add<br />

French chalk to increase tacky consistency, a solvent is<br />

extra-refined lighter fuel.<br />

Soak the print in water at 20°C for at least 10 minutes.<br />

Place the print face up on a paper towel to blot water off<br />

the back, then face up on a smooth waterproof surface.<br />

A tilted sheet of melamine or plexiglass is suitable as an<br />

easel.<br />

Blott the surface of the print (gently) with a damp<br />

chamois. Work over the print with brayer, covering entire<br />

surface quickly then more carefully redistributing and<br />

clearing highlights and mid-tones. Or, with a brush, start<br />

with a hard consistency of litho ink and hop this onto the<br />

entire surface of the print. Work over the print with shorter<br />

hopping strokes to redistribute the ink from the highlight<br />

to shadow areas. Once inked, the print will take<br />

about 24 hours to dry thoroughly.<br />

Bromoil Brushes<br />

These are British made to original specifications, and are<br />

produced in 2 qualities. Both are available in a range of<br />

5 sizes. These are basic quality, ie without copper wire<br />

tying, set in plain metal ferrule.<br />

12 816 No 2 Bromoil Brush 3.28 3.85<br />

22 442 No 6 Bromoil Brush 3.73 4.38<br />

22 479 No 8 Bromoil Brush 4.75 5.58<br />

22 481 No 10 Bromoil Brush 5.94 6.98<br />

22 494 No 12 Bromoil Brush 6.98 8.20<br />

Bromoil Video<br />

39<br />

The roots of the process can be traced back to the early<br />

1800’s, but it was not until the early 20’th century that the<br />

technique was perfected, reaching its zenith of popularity<br />

in the 1920’s and 1930’s. The late Norman Gryspeerdt<br />

made bromoil pictures for over 50 years, and was one of<br />

the most significant exponents of this technique world<br />

wide.In this video he describes and demonstrates the<br />

technique, so that by following the various steps the photographer<br />

will quickly obtain a working knowledge of the<br />

process and be ready to commence making pictures.<br />

Stocked in DVD format.<br />

21 883 Gryspeerdt Bromoil DVD 16.96 19.93<br />

Bromoil Kit<br />

The Fotospeed Bromoil Kit contains : Bleach Tanning<br />

Chemistry, Bromoil Paper 8x10in 10 sheets (a non<br />

supercoated, low contrast paper on a D/W fibre base -<br />

specifically made for the Bromoil process), one real<br />

Bromoil brush, 4 Inks (Black, Yellow, Magenta and<br />

Cyan), Inking tile, gloves and full detailed instructions.<br />

Bromoil Paper in 12x16(10) and 16x20(10), Inks (black,<br />

yellow, magenta, cyan), brushes (in varying sizes) and<br />

chemistry are available separately.<br />

23 842 Bromoil Kit 34.00 39.95<br />

27 694 Black Ink 30ml 4.32 5.08<br />

27 701 Yellow Ink 30ml 4.32 5.08<br />

27 726 Magenta Ink 30ml 4.32 5.08<br />

27 738 Cyan Ink 30ml 4.32 5.08<br />

27 740 Bromoil Chemical Pack 4 l. 9.18 10.79<br />

Paper for Bromoil<br />

The most suitable paper is one that we originally<br />

comissioned as a special making for the process, then<br />

retitled as the new Kentmere Document Art, and now<br />

about to be discontinued! Check with us or our website<br />

for remaining stock of this paper.See page 5.<br />

The Art of Bromoil & Transfer<br />

Written by the Canadian Bromoil expert David Lewis, this<br />

is a beautifully illustrated self-published book delving into<br />

all aspects of this resurging medium. As well as extensive<br />

details of working methods, contains many portfolio<br />

examples reproduced by full colour printing.<br />

1994 David W. Lewis, Hardback, 120 pages<br />

25 889 The Art of Bromoil & Transfer 25.00


ALTERNATIVE PROCESSES<br />

CYANOTYPE<br />

New CYANOTYPE<br />

Invented by Sir John Herschel in 1841, this simple<br />

process gives a continuous-tone image of Prussian Blue<br />

using a sensitising solution of Ammonium Ferric Citrate<br />

and Potassium Ferricyanide. These iron salts, when<br />

exposed to natural or artificial ultraviolet light, are<br />

reduced to their ferrous state, producing a high contrast<br />

blue image when oxidised. Oxidation is hastened by<br />

immersion in running water, which also washes away the<br />

unused iron salts.<br />

The Process<br />

Solution A 65 g Ammonium ferric citrate (green) in<br />

distilled water to make 250ml total.<br />

Solution B 23 g Potassium ferricyanide in distilled water<br />

to make 250ml total.<br />

Note : distilled water is more commonly known as<br />

'purified water'.<br />

Store solutions separately in brown glass bottles, away<br />

from light. Filter before use, and mix in equal proportions<br />

A to B.<br />

Printing<br />

Paper: For all alternative processes high quality art<br />

paper such as those used in printmaking or watercolour<br />

work are most suitable. Somerset Satin and Waterford<br />

Satin are good papers to start with, however it is<br />

advisable to make tests to find a paper to suit your<br />

requirements.<br />

Coat in subdued tungsten light, and dry away from light<br />

and heat. Print by contact (in a printing frame with a full<br />

sized negative) in sunlight or by an ultra-violet light<br />

source until the shadows look bronzed. Allow at least<br />

one stop over-exposure to compensate for loss of<br />

density during processing.<br />

Development<br />

Immerse in running water, and wash until the chartreuse<br />

stain of the ferric ammonium citrate has completely<br />

disappeared. Take care to avoid excessive washing as<br />

this will tend to wash out the image.<br />

THE CYANOTYPE KIT - Contains: Sensitiser 50ml<br />

(sufficient for 40 - 8x10in applications), Syringe 2ml,<br />

Fabriano paper 5 sheets 8x10in, Two glass coating rods<br />

4in and 8in, Protective gloves and full detailed instructions<br />

for use. Sensitiser, Glass coating rods and Hypo<br />

are available separately along with traditional contact<br />

frames with hinged backs in 8x10in and 12x16in. Raw<br />

chemistry is available on request - please phone.<br />

Cyanotype is in a single solution, and is an updated<br />

version of the original process. Using Ammonium Ferric<br />

Oxalate to give a good blue that does not wash out, this<br />

solution is twice as sensitive to UV as the traditional<br />

version. Development in water and citric acid can be<br />

used to manipulate contrast. All images are made by the<br />

contact system, where the image depends on a negative<br />

of the appropriate size.<br />

15 670 New Cyanotype Kit 28.98 34.05<br />

75 872 New Cyanotype Sensitiser [included in kit] 11.41 13.40<br />

GUM BICHROMATE<br />

In 1839, Mungo Ponton published a paper on the light<br />

sensitive properties of chromates. These are strong alkaline<br />

compounds that are available today as potassium or<br />

ammonium dichromate (bichromate is the older and<br />

more common term). In 1852, Fox Talbot used animal<br />

gelatine in combination with dichromate. He observed<br />

that the dichromated colloid hardened in proportion to its<br />

exposure to sunlight, and applied the principle to an<br />

early photogravure process. This work formed the basis<br />

for many later photographic and photomechanical<br />

processes. In 1894, A. Rouille-Ladevez redefined the<br />

process, producing prints for an exhibition at the Photo-<br />

Club de Paris. His work inspired photographers whose<br />

pictorial work derived from Impressionism in fine art, and<br />

great use was made of the gum bichromate process as a<br />

method of producing the painterly images so characteristic<br />

of turn-of-the-century art photography.<br />

Materials<br />

Gum arabic; Available as prepared liquid gum arabic<br />

(avoid acid preservatives) or mix dry gum (acacia) at 1<br />

part to 3 parts water. Dissolve (overnight), strain, and<br />

add optional preservative (phenol based such as thymol,<br />

never formalin or formaldehyde)<br />

Pigment; Water colour for transparency, or designers<br />

gouache or casein for more opacity. Powdered pigment<br />

should be ground with a small quantity of liquid gum arabic.<br />

Potassium Dichromate (bichromate) Ammonium<br />

Dichromate (bichromate) is capable of a more saturated<br />

solution, decreasing exposure time, but giving some<br />

problems of exposure control.<br />

Paper; a good quality, sized, art paper is recommended.<br />

The Process<br />

Potassium dichromate: make a 10% saturated solution<br />

(10g to 100ml distilled water) The solution will keep in<br />

the dark. If crystals form during storage, redissolve by<br />

warming the bottle. Mix the gum solution and sensitiser<br />

in equal parts. Use as soon as possible. Add to prepared<br />

pigment.<br />

Coat paper with a soft, broad brush, and allow to dry<br />

away from light and heat. The prepared paper will keep<br />

for several days in the dark, but works best when used<br />

as soon as possible.<br />

Expose the paper to sunlight or a mercury vapour lamp<br />

by contact printing under a negative. Exposure time will<br />

depend on density of negative and type of light source,<br />

but always look for a brown print-out in the shadows and<br />

the start of the mid-tones. The colour of the pigment in<br />

the coating will also affect exposure time: blue and green<br />

requiring less time than red or yellow.<br />

'Develop' the print in a bath of tepid water. Slide the print<br />

into the water (face down). Soak (a few minutes to several<br />

hours, depending on exposure). Unexposed gum will<br />

dissolve, while gum hardened by the action of light and<br />

chromate will remain. Gum coating can then be removed<br />

locally by the application of a stream of water or gentle<br />

brushing. Flatten the wet print against a tilted, waterproof<br />

board to dry. The gum print can be overprinted by<br />

recoating (once dry), re-exposing and developing.<br />

Staining of pigment in the highlights can be minimised by<br />

the application of paper size, and the dichromate stain<br />

can be removed in a 5% potassium alum bath, or by<br />

re-soaking the finished, dried print in warm water.<br />

Gum Bichromate Kit<br />

More correctly ‘dichromate’, but the old name isn’t going<br />

to go away, the Fotospeed Gum Bichromate provides an<br />

‘out of the box’ introduction to this fascinating process,<br />

yielding the most ‘painterly’ effects of any of the alternative<br />

processes.The kit contains: sensitising & clearing<br />

solution: half-tone solution: shadow solution: watercolours<br />

in tubes, Lamp Black, Payners grey & Burnt<br />

Umber. Also included are a pair of surgical gloves, and<br />

10 sheets of HP watercolour paper. Concise instructions<br />

are included.<br />

48 837 Salt Printing Kit 34.04 40.00<br />

40


ALTERNATIVE PROCESSES<br />

FILMS<br />

COATING<br />

Maco Genius Film<br />

If you're going to give a film a name, go for the top. What<br />

the name does not disclose though, is that this is a lith<br />

type sheet film, and a good replacement for Kodalith<br />

Ortho, which is now discontinued. It can be controlled in<br />

contrast by choice of developer, using lith developers<br />

such as the Champion Novolith, Fotospeed or Forte<br />

products to achieve 'lith' contrast with total elimination of<br />

half tones. Otherwise lower contrast can be produced<br />

using print developers, or lower still in negative developers.<br />

Genius is orthochromatic so can be developed by<br />

inspection using a red safelight.<br />

39 309 Macolith 5x4" 100sh 25.06 29.44<br />

20 457 Macolith 8x10" 10sh 10.50 12.34<br />

34 297 Macolith 9.5x12" 5sh 8.50 9.99<br />

96 595 Macolith 12x16" 5sh 13.45 15.80<br />

42 373 Macolith 16x20” 5sh 21.00 24.68<br />

Ilford Ortho Copy Plus Film<br />

Behaviour like FP4 without red-sensitisation. Relatively<br />

high sensitivity for camera use, (40 ISO in tungsten, 80<br />

ISO in daylight) and normal contrast. Available only in<br />

sheet sizes. Useful where response to red is not<br />

required, and development by inspection in red safelighting<br />

is needed. If photographing to reproduce a 'vintage'<br />

look it may be useful, as its response is closer to old blue<br />

sensitive films than modern panchromatic materials.<br />

84 083 Ilford Ortho Film 5x4" 25sh 16.54 19.43<br />

10 319 Ilford Ortho Film 8x10" 25sh 55.92 65.71<br />

12 607 Ilford Ortho Film 10x12" 25sh 82.85 97.35<br />

Digital Transfer Film 165 micron<br />

A Permajet product, clear inkjet film with an improved ink<br />

receiving layer that handles considerably more ink than<br />

other films. This yields high density large format negatives<br />

that can be used to contact print onto normal printing<br />

papers or be used in alternative processes. It is a<br />

fast drying water resistant film with high clarity.<br />

42 708 A4 10 14.43 16.95<br />

41 347 A3 10 28.89 33.95<br />

Coating Rods<br />

The preferable alternative when using some sensitisers,<br />

particularly platinum and palladium, where a substantial<br />

amount of very expensive sensitiser can be left unrecoverable<br />

in the brush. A syringe is used to lay a line of sensitiser<br />

onto the paper, and the rod is then touched down<br />

onto the paper at this point. It can then be drawn down<br />

the paper, pulling with it the reservoir of liquid. The<br />

amount of sensitiser should be calculated to be absorbed<br />

after about 5 passes, and the result will be a carefully<br />

metered application of sensitiser over the selected area.<br />

However, the only choice over coating width is the width<br />

of the rod, and for this reason several are offered..All are<br />

made from thick gauge glass tubing, turned at the end to<br />

provide handles.<br />

13 697 11” Coating Rod 9.19 10.80<br />

13 660 8” Coating Rod 7.94 9.33<br />

13 658 4” Coating Rod 7.16 8.41<br />

Jiaban Brushes<br />

These Chinese made goats hair brushes are ideal for<br />

use with most alternative processes because a) they<br />

contain no metal parts and b) are very inexpensive.<br />

Especially suitable for applying liquid emulsions.<br />

However in some cases, particularly platinum/palladium<br />

processes, the use of a coating rod may be preferable,<br />

as a brush retains a significant amount of the significantly<br />

expensive sensitiser<br />

34 575 Jiaban Brush 2” 2.63 3.09<br />

30 516 Jiaban Brush 2.5” 3.68 4.32<br />

45 233 Jiaban Brush 3” 4.20 4.94<br />

18 790 Jiaban Brush 4.5” 5.25 6.17<br />

CONTACT FRAMES<br />

WEIGHING<br />

BOOKS<br />

Lotus Contact Frames<br />

41<br />

Not cheap, in fact outrageous, but then so is a Rolls<br />

Royce. The Lotus frames are exceptionally well made,<br />

on a par with the best wooden camera making, which<br />

indeed is the other side of the Lotus business. We do not<br />

keep these in stock, they are shipped out by the UK<br />

importer, so if you are making it part of a larger order, the<br />

frame will arrive packed separately.<br />

The 20x24” model is made to special order, and takes<br />

about 3 weeks.<br />

--- Lotus 10x12” Contact Frame 275.00 323.13<br />

--- Lotus 12x16” Contact Frame 325.00 381.88<br />

--- Lotus 20x24” Contact Frame 495.00 581.63<br />

Electronic Balances<br />

For many years we supplied a traditional pan balance<br />

with weights, but the manufacturer called it a day in the<br />

end...less aesthetically pleasing, but easier to use and<br />

more accurate, a choice of two electronic balances.<br />

The Salter 3010 weighs from 1g to 2kg, and this is accurate<br />

across the platen - some other relatively cheap<br />

balances can vary quite widely depending on where the<br />

load is placed.<br />

A membrane covers the switches, and controls are<br />

ON/ZERO, OFF, and a switch between KG/LB<br />

The Salter1250 is designated an ‘Electronic Travel Diet<br />

Scales’, and provides ultra fine 0.1g increments as<br />

required by diabetics - this makes it equally useful as a<br />

highly accurate chemical scales. Compact enough to<br />

travel with, only 120 x 120 x 170mm, and the weighing<br />

tray inverts as a cover for the platen. Uses a CR2032<br />

lithium coin battery<br />

21 871 Salter 3010 Electronic Balance 25.00 29.38<br />

45 575 Salter 1250 Electronic Balance 30.00 35.25<br />

Making Digital Negatives<br />

PAPER for ALT. PROCESSES<br />

'Making Digital Negatives' was first self-published by Dan<br />

Burkholder in 1995, and was a very useful little 70 page<br />

booklet aimed at introducing the photographer with an<br />

interest in fine art into using digital techniques. The new<br />

second edition weighs in at a mighty 350 pages, covering<br />

a greatly extended range of topics. As we are importing<br />

the book from Dan himself, we are able to offer the<br />

book at the same price as the original edition, only £30.<br />

This also includes a CD containing calibration tools, test<br />

images, image layout templates, curves and colour table<br />

settings, which you use as you follow the steps in the<br />

book and run your own tests.<br />

15 412 Making Digital Negatives 30.00<br />

We do not profess to be paper merchants, but keep a<br />

few specialised papers (at present down to one) suitable<br />

for alternative processes. Arches Platine is natural white<br />

and is particularly suited to iron-based processes such<br />

as platinum.<br />

3 656 Arches Platine, 300 g 10sh 16.00 18.80


RAW CHEMICALS<br />

The listing on this page contains most of the raw<br />

chemicals used in commonly used formulae.<br />

Some chemicals not listed are possibly stocked<br />

or can be ordered. Some toxic chemicals, (such<br />

as mercury salts) we are unable to supply, or<br />

any chemical interpreted as being used for illegal<br />

activity (such as drug refining). We are not able to ship<br />

any raw chemicals outside the UK.<br />

ITEM QTY CODE NET +VAT<br />

Acacia (gum arabic) 100g 16 117 4.81 5.65<br />

Alum - see Potassium aluminium sulphate<br />

Amidol (diaminophenol dihydrochloride) 25g 85 249 14.50 17.04<br />

p-Aminophenol 25g 23 108 2.75 3.23<br />

Ammonium alum 100g 56 123 2.80 3.29<br />

Ammonium alum 500g 16 131 12.09 14.21<br />

Ammonium bromide 100g 65 663 3.39 3.98<br />

Ammonium carbonate 100g 2 605 4.41 5.18<br />

Ammonium carbonate 500g 54 871 19.09 22.43<br />

Ammonium chloride 100g 20 541 1.33 1.56<br />

Ammonium chloride 500g 16 300 5.76 6.77<br />

Ammonium citrate 100g 67 108 7.85 9.22<br />

Ammonium dichromate 25g 38 215 2.00 2.35<br />

Ammonium dichromate 100g 76 299 6.47 7.60<br />

Ammonium dichromate 500g 37 301 28.27 33.22<br />

Ammonium ferric citrate (green) 25g 71 888 2.23 2.62<br />

Ammonium ferric citrate (green) 100g 86 140 7.63 8.96<br />

Ammonium ferric citrate (green) 500g 86 126 32.74 38.47<br />

Ammonium oxalate monohydrate 100g 47 062 8.38 9.85<br />

Ammonium persulphate 100g 56 356 2.<strong>36</strong> 2.77<br />

Ammonium persulphate 500g 43 916 10.21 12.00<br />

Ammonium iron 111 oxalate trihydrate 25g 89 769 5.00 5.88<br />

Ammonium thiocyanate 25g 20 747 2.07 2.43<br />

Ammonium thiocyanate 100g 8 041 6.54 7.68<br />

Ammonium thiosulphate. 500g 27 655 5.05 5.93<br />

L-Ascorbic acid 25g 56 926 3.39 3.98<br />

Benzotriazole 25g 27 215 5.49 6.45<br />

Boric acid 100g 2 023 1.51 1.77<br />

Boric acid 500g 21 785 6.56 7.71<br />

Calgon 500g 53 578 5.07 5.96<br />

Catechol 25g 94 793 2.50 2.94<br />

CD3 (Colour developing agent no. 3) 25g 5 179 3.13 3.68<br />

CD4 (CIolour Developing Agent no. 4) 25g 46 296 4.86 5.71<br />

Chrome alum 100g 13 453 3.34 3.92<br />

Chrome alum 500g 82 490 11.41 13.41<br />

Citrazinic acid 10g 11 980 3.53 4.15<br />

Citric acid 100g 20 539 1.55 1.82<br />

Citric acid 500g 97 971 6.25 7.34<br />

Cupric bromide 50g 31 502 9.30 10.93<br />

Cupric chloride 100g 46 660 4.95 5.82<br />

Cupric sulphate 100g 33 175 4.46 5.24<br />

Cupric sulphate 500g 46 697 15.50 18.21<br />

EDTA acid 100g 76 039 4.37 5.13<br />

EDTA (tetra sodium) 100g 4 851 5.44 6.39<br />

EDTA (NaFe) 100g 7 251 1.95 2.29<br />

EDTA (di-potassium) 100g 6 503 11.76 13.82<br />

EDTA (di-sodium) 100g 55 109 8.54 10.03<br />

EDTA (di-sodium) 500g 87 805 <strong>36</strong>.42 42.79<br />

Ferric ammonium citrate - see Ammonium ferric citrate<br />

Ferric ammonium sulphate 100g 87 930 4.49 5.28<br />

Ferric chloride 100g 76 137 3.00 3.53<br />

Ferric nitrate nonahydrate 100g 7 578 7.85 9.22<br />

Ferrous sulphate 100g 54 306 5.59 6.57<br />

Formamidinesulphinic acid 100g 3 519 15.00 17.63<br />

Gallic acid 100g 87 592 9.30 10.93<br />

Gelatin 100g 58 671 2.50 2.94<br />

Gelatin 500g 11 187 11.25 13.25<br />

Hydroquinone 25g 74 677 1.34 1.57<br />

Hydroquinone 100g 34 480 3.47 4.08<br />

Hydroquinone 500g 10 514 14.79 17.38<br />

Iodine 25g 14 378 4.49 5.28<br />

Kodalk - see Sodium metaborate<br />

Metol 25g 94 389 2.49 2.93<br />

Metol 100g 98 593 8.25 9.69<br />

ITEM QTY CODE NET +VAT<br />

Oxalic acid 100g 84 434 6.31 7.41<br />

Phenidone 25g 24 185 3.70 4.35<br />

Phenidone 100g 23 219 12.35 14.51<br />

Potassium aluminium sulphate 500g 1 414 4.25 4.99<br />

Potassium bromide 100g 76 526 1.89 2.22<br />

Potassium bromide 500g 65 6<strong>36</strong> 8.04 9.45<br />

Potassium carbonate 500g 4 603 3.21 3.77<br />

Potassium citrate 100g 76 027 4.14 4.86<br />

Potassium citrate 500g 2 779 17.24 20.26<br />

Potassium dichromate 100g 46 854 2.48 2.91<br />

Potassium dichromate 500g 56 783 10.29 12.09<br />

Potassium ferricyanide 100g 48 183 2.72 3.20<br />

Potassium ferricyanide 400g 23 480 9.68 11.37<br />

Potassium ferrocyanide 100g 59 656 7.40 8.70<br />

Potassium hydroxide 500g 22 993 10.50 12.34<br />

Potassium iodide 25g 57 401 2.18 2.56<br />

Potassium iodide 100g 75 <strong>36</strong>1 7.37 8.66<br />

Potassium metabisulphite 500g 21 080 3.30 3.88<br />

Potassium nitrate 25g <strong>36</strong> 023 2.00 2.35<br />

Potassium oxalate 100g 29 056 8.52 10.01<br />

Potassium permanganate 100g 2 632 2.84 3.34<br />

Potassium thiocyanate 100g 29 082 4.84 5.69<br />

Pyrocatechol - see Catechol 25g 94 793 2.50 2.94<br />

Pyrogallic acid - see Gallic acid<br />

Pyrogallol 50g 79 795 17.55 20.62<br />

Silver nitrate 25g 27 681 14.04 16.50<br />

Silver nitrate 100g 60 169 44.85 52.70<br />

Sodium bisulphite - see Sodium metabisulphite<br />

Sodium bromide 25g 23 000 1.89 2.22<br />

Sodium bromide 100g <strong>36</strong> 295 5.86 6.89<br />

Sodium carbonate(anhydrous) 350g 51 167 2.91 3.42<br />

Sodium chloride 100g 20 405 2.61 3.07<br />

Sodium citrate 100g 12 575 4.14 4.86<br />

Sodium hydroxide 100g 37 326 1.34 1.57<br />

Sodium hydroxide 500g 65 321 5.04 5.92<br />

Sodium iso-ascorbate 25g 30 056 3.<strong>36</strong> 3.95<br />

Sodium metabisulphite 500g 5 641 3.32 3.90<br />

Sodium metaborate (Kodalk) 100g 97 017 1.95 2.29<br />

Sodium metaborate 500g 55 817 8.34 9.80<br />

di-basic Sodium phosphate 100g 33 332 5.68 6.67<br />

Sodium potassium tartrate 100g 3 521 8.43 9.91<br />

Sodium sulphate 500g 77 234 5.70 6.70<br />

Sodium sulphite (anhydrous) 500g 87 869 2.64 3.10<br />

Sodium tetraborate (Borax) 500g 82 702 3.40 4.00<br />

Sodium thiocyanate 100g 37 670 3.26 3.83<br />

Sodium thiocyanate 500g 10 137 13.58 15.96<br />

Sodium thiosulphate (anhydrous) 500g 32 299 3.17 3.72<br />

Succinic acid 100g 24 893 5.20 6.11<br />

Sulphamic acid 100g 26 849 3.05 3.58<br />

Tartaric acid 100g 91 757 4.01 4.71<br />

Thiourea (thiocarbamide) 100g 69 598 2.45 2.88<br />

Thiourea 500g 99 223 10.53 12.37<br />

TWEEN 20 25ml 22 190 1.50 1.76<br />

LIQUID CHEMICALS<br />

AMMONIA 10% 500ml 26 120 4.17 4.90<br />

HYDROCHLORIC ACID 10%. 500ml 92 535 4.17 4.90<br />

SULPHURIC ACID 10% 500ml 90 416 4.17 4.90<br />

ACETIC ACID 5 litres available, collection only, see Stopbaths<br />

WE AIM TO KEEP THE ABOVE PACKINGS IN STOCK, BUT IF YOU NEED SEVERAL ITEMS TO<br />

PREPARE A FORMULA, PARTICULARLY THE MORE OBSCURE ONES, IT MAY BE ADVISABLE<br />

TO RING TO CHECK STOCK. WE ONLY SELL CHEMICALS FOR USE IN PHOTOGRAPHIC APPLICA-<br />

TIONS. TO PURCHASE RAW CHEMICALS OVER THE COUNTER YOU MAY BE ASKED TO COMPLETE A<br />

WRITTEN ORDER, WITH SIGNATURE AND ADDRESS.<br />

42

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!